Anti-wrinkle cosmetic complex, cosmetic composition, use and method for cosmetic treatment

The anti-aging cosmetic complex with Ingá and retinol derivative addresses the challenges of existing eye products by effectively reducing wrinkles and expression lines, enhancing hydration, and maintaining skin health and appearance.

WO2025151940A1PCT designated stage expired Publication Date: 2025-07-24NATURA COSMETICOS SA
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Patent Information

Application Number
PCT/BR2025/050020
Authority / Receiving Office
WO · WO
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2024-01-18
Filing Date
2025-01-20
Publication Date
2025-07-24

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing cosmetic products for the eye area face challenges in balancing texture, comfort, and safety while effectively reducing signs of aging, such as wrinkles and expression lines, due to inadequate formulations and sensitivity of the delicate skin around the eyes.

Method used

An anti-aging cosmetic complex comprising Ingá (Inga edulis) and a retinol derivative, combined with cosmetically acceptable carriers, formulated as a balm with a velvety texture, providing deep moisturization and reducing greasiness, to address signs of aging.

Benefits of technology

The composition effectively reduces expression lines and wrinkles, maintains skin hydration for up to 24 hours, improves makeup longevity, brightens the skin, and maintains the skin's natural pH, while being non-irritating and comfortable to use.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Abstract

The present invention relates to an anti-wrinkle cosmetic complex comprising Inga edulis and a retinol derivative useful in reducing the signs of aging in the eye area. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising the aforementioned complex, as well as to uses thereof and a method for cosmetic treatment.
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Description

Descriptive Report of the Invention Patent for "ANTI-SIGNAL COSMETIC COMPLEX, COSMETIC COMPOSITION, USE AND METHOD FOR COSMETIC TREATMENT". FIELD OF INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to an anti-aging cosmetic complex useful for reducing signs of aging in the eye area. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising said complex, as well as its uses and a method for cosmetic treatment. BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

[0002] Skin aging around the eyes generally occurs more rapidly than in other areas of the face due to its delicate and thin skin. Over time, collagen and elastin production decreases, leading to loss of firmness, the appearance of expression lines, wrinkles, and sagging.

[0003] Furthermore, blood circulation in the eye area is slower due to reduced blood flow in the vessels surrounding this area, which is naturally more delicate. This slower blood circulation contributes to dark circles and puffiness, while factors such as sun exposure, lack of sleep, and stress exacerbate these symptoms.

[0004] The skin around the eyes also has fewer sebaceous glands, making it more prone to dehydration, which accentuates signs of aging.

[0005] Thus, the use of creams, serums, gels, oils, and masks for the eye area to reduce skin aging is increasingly popular. However, these types of products can present certain issues that hinder consumers' experience. These issues include, for example, inadequate texture, an oily sensation, and irritation.

[0006] An inappropriate texture, whether too dense or too fluid, makes it difficult to apply the product. If the texture is too dense, REPLACEMENT SHEET (RULE 26) The product can be difficult to spread and leave residue on the skin. On the other hand, a very fluid texture makes it more difficult for the consumer to determine the ideal amount to use.

[0007] An oily sensation is a typical characteristic of products with a high content of moisturizing and emollient ingredients, for example. This characteristic is generally considered uncomfortable, especially for those with combination or oily skin.

[0008] The eye area has more delicate, sensitive and thin skin than most other parts of the human body and is therefore more prone to adverse and allergic reactions.

[0009] These issues indicate that an eye product faces a challenge in balancing physical and chemical characteristics to achieve the goal of reducing signs of aging.

[0010] Patent application WO 98 / 50005 A1 describes cosmetic compositions useful in a variety of topical and personal care products, including treatments for disorders and imperfections of the skin or other areas of the body. More particularly, WO 98 / 50005 A1 describes a cosmetic composition comprising a polymeric network composed of poloxamers that aggregate in response to temperature changes, in combination with polyacrylic acid components.

[0011] Patent application BR102019013936-6 describes, in general, the use of bioactive ingredients obtained from plant species in the preparation of cosmetic compositions useful in the treatment of skin, hair and / or scalp, acting on the integrity / barrier function, anti-aging, anti-signaling, hydration, anti-inflammatory, protection against external agents, renewal / regeneration, pigmentation, in the neuroendocrine system and / or in the circadian rhythm of the skin.

[0012] Patent application BR112023023602-9 concerns an ANTI-SIGNAL cosmetic complex, to act against damage caused by oxidative stress and free radicals, on the skin and / or scalp, REPLACEMENT SHEET (RULE 26) comprising bioactive ingredients from Euterpe oleracea (açaí), Theobroma cacao (cocoa) and Inga edulis (ingá), as well as a cosmetic composition containing the same, its use and method.

[0013] However, none of the three prior art documents cited above disclose a specific composition for reducing signs of aging in the eye area.

[0014] Thus, there is a demand for new, more effective and safe products in the cosmetics industry for use in the eye area. There is no prior art literature describing or suggesting an anti-aging cosmetic complex featuring a synergistic combination of at least two active ingredients, namely Ingá (Inga edulis) and a retinol derivative, for use in the eye area.

[0015] The present inventors have surprisingly discovered that an anti-aging cosmetic complex comprising Ingá (Inga edulis) and a retinol derivative, together with cosmetically acceptable carriers, forms a cosmetic composition that treats signs of aging in the eye area, reducing expression lines and wrinkles. The composition discovered by the inventors is a balm-like formulation with a velvety texture and a deeply moisturizing sensation, non-greasy and easy to spread. SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

[0016] In a first aspect, the invention provides an anti-aging cosmetic complex comprising Ingá (Inga edulis) and a retinol derivative.

[0017] In one embodiment of the invention, the anti-aging cosmetic complex comprises approximately 0.01% to approximately 1% of Ingá and approximately 0.01% to approximately 2% of retinol derivative, relative to the total weight of a cosmetic composition to which the complex is conveyed.

[0018] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the REPLACEMENT SHEET (RULE 26) anti-aging cosmetic complex comprises approximately 0.01% of Ingá and approximately 1% of retinol derivative, in relation to the total weight of a cosmetic composition to which the complex is conveyed.

[0019] In another preferred embodiment of the invention, the retinol derivative may be selected from a group consisting of Retinol Linoleate (Retinol-L), Retinol Acetate, and Retinol Palmitate.

[0020] In another embodiment of the invention, the anti-aging cosmetic complex further comprises caffeine, glycerin, Hymenaea courbaril (Jatobá), Schinus terebinthfolius (Aroeira), Casearia sylvestris (Guaçatonga), Squalane and Theobroma cacao (cocoa butter).

[0021] In a second aspect, the invention provides a cosmetic composition comprising the anti-aging cosmetic complex according to the present invention and cosmetically acceptable carriers.

[0022] In one embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is for use in the eye region to: - promote skin hydration for up to 24 hours; and / or - keep eye makeup lasting longer; and / or - improve the appearance of makeup; and / or - brighten the skin; and / or - reduce expression lines and wrinkles, and / or - reduce dry skin; and / or - prevent the appearance of sagging and other signs of aging; and / or - promote the maintenance of the skin's natural pH.

[0023] In a third aspect, the invention provides the use of the anti-aging cosmetic complex according to the present invention in the manufacture of a cosmetic composition for the eye area for: - promote skin hydration for up to 24 hours; and / or REPLACEMENT SHEET (RULE 26) - keep eye makeup lasting longer; and / or - improve the appearance of makeup; and / or - brighten the skin; and / or - reduce expression lines and wrinkles, and / or - reduce dry skin; and / or - prevent the appearance of sagging and other signs of aging; and / or - promote the maintenance of the skin's natural pH.

[0024] In a fourth aspect, the invention provides a method for cosmetic treatment comprising applying the cosmetic composition according to the present invention to the eye region.

[0025] The details, examples, and preferences provided in relation to one or more aspects of the present invention will be described below and apply to all aspects of the invention. All combinations of the embodiments, examples, and preferences described below, in any possible variation, are included in the present invention, unless otherwise specified. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0026] To enhance understanding, the features and benefits of the present invention will be presented and described in conjunction with the accompanying drawings.

[0027] Figure 1 is an example of an image obtained with the Primos CR Large Field (Canfield®) equipment used in Test 1 according to the present invention.

[0028] Figure 2 illustrates how the analysis of the image in Figure 1 is performed using VAM software, version 5.9.7, Canfield Scientific Inc.

[0029] Figure 3 is an example of a graphical representation of the roughness profile of the analyzed area in Figure 2.

[0030] Figure 4 presents a graph with the average intensity values of wrinkles and expression lines obtained in Test 1 of REPLACEMENT SHEET (RULE 26) according to the present invention.

[0031] Figure 5 shows the result obtained in Test 1 according to the present invention for one of the study participants.

[0032] Figure 6 shows a graph with the average intensity values of wrinkles and expression lines obtained in Test 2 according to the present invention.

[0033] Figure 7 shows the result obtained in Test 2 for one of the study participants.

[0034] Figure 8 shows a graph with the average skin pH values obtained throughout the study of Test 3 according to the present invention.

[0035] Figure 9 shows a graph with the average skin pH values obtained throughout the study of Test 4 according to the present invention.

[0036] Figure 10 presents a graph with the average capacitance values obtained throughout the study of Test 5 according to the present invention.

[0037] Figure 11 presents a graph with the percentage increase in skin hydration reflecting the results of the Test 5 study according to the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0038] The following description of examples and tests of the invention should not be used to limit the scope of the present invention. Other examples, features, aspects, embodiments, and advantages of the invention will become apparent to those skilled in the art from the following description, which is, by way of illustration, one of the best modes contemplated for carrying out the invention. Consequently, the drawings and descriptions should be considered illustrative and not restrictive in nature.

[0039] The present invention relates to an anti-aging cosmetic complex, which comprises the bioactive ingredient Ingá (Inga REPLACEMENT SHEET (RULE 26) edulis) and a retinol derivative.

[0040] A cosmetic complex is a mixture of two or more ingredients that, when combined, act synergistically to offer specific benefits. The present invention aims to provide an anti-aging cosmetic complex that presents a synergistic effect between the ingredients, acting to reduce signs of aging in the eye area, particularly in reducing wrinkles and expression lines, in addition to, for example, moisturizing and brightening the skin around the eyes.

[0041] The bioactive ingredient Ingá is a powerful active ingredient from Amazonian biodiversity that restores the skin's natural regeneration capacity, reducing micro-injuries and restoring its radiance. The retinol derivative stimulates collagen production, improving the appearance of expression lines and wrinkles, as well as stimulating cell renewal and reducing hyperpigmentation.

[0042] The anti-aging cosmetic complex of the present invention can be incorporated into a cosmetic composition.

[0043] In one embodiment, the present invention provides an anti-aging cosmetic complex, comprising: (b about 0.01% to about 1% of Ingá; and (ii) about 0.01% to about 2% of retinol derivative, in relation to the total weight of a cosmetic composition to which the complex is conveyed.

[0044] As used herein, the term “about” means within a range of acceptable error for the particular value, as determined by one skilled in the art, which will depend in part on how the value is measured or determined, for example, the limitations of the measuring system.

[0045] The retinol derivative is selected from a group consisting of Retinol Linoleate (Retinol-L), Retinol Acetate, and Retinol Palmitate. Preferably, the retinol derivative is Linoleate. REPLACEMENT SHEET (RULE 26) of Retinol (Retinol-L), as it is more stable and less susceptible to oxidation.

[0046] The cosmetic complex according to the present invention may further comprise caffeine, glycerin, Hymenaea courbaril (Jatobá), Schinus terebinthfolius (Aroeira), Casearia sylvestris (Guaçatonga), Squalane and Theobroma cacao (cocoa butter).

[0047] This invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising: (i) an anti-aging cosmetic complex according to the present invention; and (ii) cosmetically acceptable vehicles.

[0048] Water is preferably the base of the cosmetic composition of the present invention, acting as the vehicle for the other components. The composition of the present invention comprises preferably demineralized or distilled water in an appropriate percentage (qsp) to achieve 100% of the formula based on the total weight of the present composition. Other cosmetically acceptable vehicles known to those skilled in the art for the composition of cosmetic bases can be used in the composition of the present invention, such as: aqueous gels, alcoholic gels, ointments, oils, aqueous or alcoholic fluids, water-in-oil emulsions, oil-in-water emulsions, and water-in-silicone emulsions.

[0049] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may also comprise other ingredients with secondary functions and known in the art for these functions, for example: solvents, pH adjusters, chelators, sensory modifiers, perfumes, solubilizers, preservatives, among others.

[0050] The preparation of the composition of the present invention is carried out by conventional methods known to a person skilled in the art.

[0051] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention is particularly for use in the eye region with various REPLACEMENT SHEET (RULE 26) purposes, for example: - promote skin hydration for up to 24 hours; - keep your eye makeup lasting longer; - improve the appearance of makeup; - brighten the skin; - reduce expression lines and wrinkles, - reduce dry skin; - prevent the appearance of sagging and other signs of aging; and - promote the maintenance of the skin's natural pH.

[0052] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention provides immediate results that intensify over time, as demonstrated by the tests presented below.

[0053] The present invention further relates to a method for cosmetic treatment comprising applying the cosmetic composition according to the present invention to the eye area. Examples of cosmetic treatments are: - promote skin hydration for up to 24 hours; - keep your eye makeup lasting longer; - improve the appearance of makeup; - brighten the skin; - reduce expression lines and wrinkles, - reduce dry skin; - prevent the appearance of sagging and other signs of aging; and - promote the maintenance of the skin's natural pH.

[0054] The following example is an embodiment of a cosmetic composition comprising the anti-aging complex of the present invention, and is merely illustrative in nature, and is not intended to limit or restrict the subject matter of the present patent application. COMPOSITION EXAMPLE REPLACEMENT SHEET (RULE 26) EXAMPLE 1

[0055] Cosmetic compositions for use in the eye area have been produced in the form of a balm. The following table presents an example of a cosmetic composition according to the present invention, showing the weight-for-weight percentage of the ingredients contained in said composition.

[0056] Table 1. Example of cosmetic composition REPLACEMENT SHEET (RULE 26) REPLACEMENT SHEET (RULE 26)

[0057] 5 tests were performed to evaluate the effectiveness of the composition of the present invention according to Example 1 (hereinafter “study composition”) which will be described below. TEST 1: Evaluation of the effectiveness of the study composition in reducing wrinkles and facial expression lines through image analysis using the Primos CR Large Field (Canfield®) equipment.

[0058] Volunteers were recruited for a study to evaluate the effectiveness of the study composition in reducing wrinkles and expression lines in the eye region through image analysis using the Primos CR Large Field (Canfield®) equipment. REPLACEMENT SHEET (RULE 26)

[0059] 34 participants aged 51 ± 6 years completed the study.

[0060] The participants' Fitzpatrick phototype is distributed as follows: 3% phototype II, 68% phototype III and 29% phototype IV.

[0061] Participants were instructed to discontinue use of any cosmetic products on their face 48 hours before the start of the study and not to use any products during the study period.

[0062] Participants were instructed to scoop out a small amount of the study composition with the spatula and apply it to the eye area, massaging it in with their fingers until completely absorbed. Participants were also instructed to use the study composition at least once a day.

[0063] The region of each participant's face for analysis was determined according to the morphology of the face, size and location of the region with the presence of wrinkles and expression lines.

[0064] The images were obtained using the Primos CR Large Field (Canfield®) equipment with a maximum resolution of 50 micrometers in the initial condition of the study and after 15, 30 and 60 days of home use of the study composition.

[0065] Figure 1 exemplifies the image obtained by the aforementioned equipment, in the corners of the eyes.

[0066] Evaluation of the intensity of wrinkles and expression lines in the image obtained was analyzed using the VAM software, version 5.9.7, Canfield Scientific Inc, inserting parallel lines over the determined region, as illustrated in Figure 2.

[0067] For each inserted line, the region's roughness profile can be extracted, generating a graph. An example of the generated graph is shown in Figure 3.

[0068] The intensity of wrinkles and expression lines (R) was determined through the roughness profile values obtained. The REPLACEMENT SHEET (RULE 26) The higher the R value, the greater the intensity of wrinkles and expression lines.

[0069] The percentage reduction in the intensity of wrinkles and expression lines (R%) was calculated according to Equation 1: I E-equation in which: Ri = intensity of wrinkles and expression lines in the initial condition. Rf = intensity of wrinkles and expression lines in the final condition.

[0070] Figure 4 illustrates the average intensity values of wrinkles and expression lines obtained during the study.

[0071] The values obtained for the intensity of wrinkles and expression lines in the initial condition were statistically compared with the results after 15, 30 and 60 days of use of the composition using the bimodal paired Student's T-test method, considering a 95% confidence interval.

[0072] Table 2 summarizes the results obtained in the statistical analysis to assess the significance of the percentage reduction in the intensity of wrinkles and expression lines throughout Test 1.

[0073] Table 2. Summary data from the statistical analysis of the significance of Test 1

[0074] Thus, according to the study protocol and the procedures used to evaluate the reduction of wrinkles and expression lines promoted by the study composition, it was possible to observe that: REPLACEMENT SHEET (RULE 26)

[0075] After 15 days of using the study composition of the present invention, there was a significant reduction (P < 0.05) in wrinkles and expression lines from 3.0% to 4.9%. It was possible to observe that 59% of the study participants showed a reduction in wrinkles and expression lines.

[0076] After 30 days of using the study composition of the present invention, there was a significant reduction (P < 0.05) in wrinkles and expression lines from 5.3% to 6.9%. It was possible to observe that 88% of the study participants showed a reduction in wrinkles and expression lines.

[0077] After 60 days of using the study composition of the present invention, there was a significant reduction (P < 0.05) in wrinkles and expression lines from 6.8% to 8.3%. It was possible to observe that 94% of the study participants showed a reduction in wrinkles and expression lines.

[0078] Table 3 below presents a summary of the results of the study carried out according to Test 1. Table 3. Summary of Test 1 Results

[0079] Figure 5 shows the result obtained for one of the participants in the study carried out according to Test 1. TEST 2: Evaluation of the effectiveness of the study composition in reducing wrinkles and facial expression lines through photogrammetry image analysis.

[0080] Volunteers were recruited for a study to evaluate the effectiveness of the study composition of the present invention in reducing wrinkles and expression lines in the eye region through photogrammetric image analysis. REPLACEMENT SHEET (RULE 26)

[0081] 34 participants aged 51 ± 6 years completed the study.

[0082] The participants' Fitzpatrick phototype is distributed as follows: 3% phototype II, 68% phototype III and 29% phototype IV.

[0083] Participants were instructed to discontinue use of any cosmetic products on their face 48 hours before the start of the study and not to use any products during the study period.

[0084] Participants were instructed to scoop out a small amount of the study composition with the spatula and apply it to the eye area, massaging it in with their fingers until completely absorbed. Participants were also instructed to use the study composition at least once a day.

[0085] The evaluation was based on obtaining high-resolution digital photographs under controlled technical conditions, at the beginning of the study and after 30 and 60 days of home use of the study composition.

[0086] To obtain the photographs, participants were positioned with the aid of a support so that their faces could be photographed in portrait or close-up. The images were obtained with the participant seated, using a headrest with controlled lighting. For each photographic evaluation, a photo of the left side of the participant's face was taken at a 45° angle, with the center of the lens at eye level. The parameters were kept constant for each participant so that the images could be compared.

[0087] The evaluation of the reduction of wrinkles and expression lines was performed in a delimited area in the outer corner of the face and the eye of each participant, following the characteristics of their individual anatomy, determining the intensity of wrinkles and expression lines (R). The higher the R value, the greater the intensity of wrinkles and expression lines.

[0088] The percentage of reduction in wrinkle intensity and REPLACEMENT SHEET (RULE 26) expression lines (R%) was calculated according to the same Equation 1 presented in Test 1: i E-quaça ~ in which: Ri = intensity of wrinkles and expression lines in the initial condition. Rf = intensity of wrinkles and expression lines in the final condition.

[0089] Data analysis and interpretation were performed using GraphPad™ Prism® 8.0 software (GraphPad Software, San Diego, California, USA).

[0090] Facial images were obtained at baseline and after 30 and 60 days of home use of the study composition.

[0091] Figure 6 illustrates the average intensity values of wrinkles and expression lines obtained during the study.

[0092] The values obtained for the intensity of wrinkles in the initial condition were statistically compared with the results after 30 and 60 days of use of the composition using the bimodal paired Student's T-test method, considering a 95% confidence interval.

[0093] Table 4 summarizes the results obtained in the statistical analysis to assess the significance of the percentage reduction in the intensity of wrinkles and expression lines throughout Test 2.

[0094] Table 4. Summary data from the statistical analysis of the significance of Test 2

[0095] Thus, according to the study protocol and the procedures used to evaluate the reduction of wrinkles and expression lines promoted by the study composition, it was possible to observe REPLACEMENT SHEET (RULE 26) what:

[0096] After 30 days of home use of the study composition, there was a significant reduction (P < 0.05) in wrinkles and expression lines of 2.9%, reaching up to 4.0%. It was possible to observe that 85% of the study participants showed a reduction in wrinkles and expression lines.

[0097] After 60 days of home use of the study composition, there was a significant reduction (P < 0.05) in wrinkles and expression lines of 5.7%, reaching up to 7.3%. It was possible to observe that 94% of the study participants showed a reduction in wrinkles and expression lines.

[0098] Table 5 below presents a summary of the results of the study carried out in accordance with Test 2. Table 5. Summary of Test 2 results

[0099] Figure 7 shows an example of the result obtained for one of the study participants carried out according to Test 2 and a 3D representation of the analysis performed. TEST 3: Assessment of skin pH after application of cosmetic product (short kinetics).

[0100] Maintaining a balanced skin pH is crucial to the effectiveness of a cosmetic product because a proper pH (generally between 4.6 and 5.8) preserves the skin's protective barrier, known as the acid mantle. This mantle protects against bacteria, pollutants, and external irritants, in addition to maintaining hydration and preventing dryness and irritation. When the skin's pH is altered, it can increase the risk of problems such as acne, dermatitis, and sensitivity, compromising the product's results and skin health. REPLACEMENT SHEET (RULE 26)

[0101] The purpose of this study was to evaluate the variation in skin pH after 30, 60 and 90 minutes of use of the study composition.

[0102] 12 participants aged 52 ± 7 years completed the study.

[0103] The participants' phototype according to the Fitzpatrick scale is distributed as follows: 8% phototype II, 25% phototype III and 67% phototype IV.

[0104] Participants were instructed to discontinue the use of any cosmetic products on their forearms 48 hours before the start of the study and not to apply any product to the experimental area that could interfere with the study evaluation.

[0105] Two areas (called sites) measuring 2.5 x 4.0 cm were marked on the forearms of study participants. Application of the study compound and the control compound (skin without compound application) was randomized between sites.

[0106] Participants remained for 30 minutes in a climate-controlled environment at 20°C ± 2°C and 50% ± 5% relative humidity before beginning measurements. After the stabilization period, baseline skin pH measurements were taken at the marked sites (before application of the composition). The study composition was then applied evenly to the marked sites, and participants remained in the laboratory for measurements after 30, 60, and 90 minutes.

[0107] Climatic conditions throughout the experiment were kept constant as mentioned above.

[0108] Skin pH measurements were performed with the Skin-pHmeter® probe attached to the Multi Probe Adapter, MPA 5, (CKeletronics, Germany).

[0109] From the pH values obtained, the variation in skin pH (ApH) was calculated at each assessment time, in relation to the basal condition. The ApH parameter was calculated according to Equation 2: REPLACEMENT SHEET (RULE 26) Equation 2: ApH = pHti - pHto in which: pHü = average of the pH values obtained after 30, 60 and 90 minutes. pHto = average of the pH values obtained at the beginning of the study.

[0110] Figure 8 shows the mean skin pH values obtained throughout the study.

[0111] Basal homogeneity was assessed by applying the bimodal paired Student's t-test method, considering a 95% confidence interval, to the skin pH values obtained for the composition and for the control at the beginning of the study.

[0112] Table 6 summarizes the results obtained in the statistical analysis to assess basal homogeneity. Table 6. Summary data from the statistical analysis of the baseline homogeneity of Test 3

[0113] According to the result obtained, there was no significant difference (P > 0.05) in the basal skin pH values between the sites where the composition was applied and the respective control, indicating basal homogeneity between them.

[0114] The significance of skin pH variation, for the study composition and the control, was assessed by applying the bimodal paired Student's t-test method, considering a 95% confidence interval, to the skin pH values obtained at the beginning of the study, compared to the values obtained after 30, 60 and 90 minutes.

[0115] Table 7 summarizes the results obtained in the statistical analysis to assess the significance of skin pH variation throughout the short kinetics study.

[0116] Table 7. Summary data from statistical analysis of significance in skin pH (short kinetics) REPLACEMENT SHEET (RULE 26)

[0117] According to the results obtained in the statistical analysis, it was possible to observe that:

[0118] There was no significant variation (P > 0.05) in skin pH values at the control site after 30, 60, and 90 minutes, indicating that there was no significant change in skin pH during the study.

[0119] For the composition, a significant increase (P < 0.05) was observed in skin pH values after 30, 60 and 90 minutes, indicating that the study composition provided an increase in skin pH in relation to the basal condition.

[0120] The significance of the skin pH variation due to the application of the composition compared to the control was assessed using the bimodal paired Student's T-test method, considering a 95% confidence interval, for the ApH data calculated for the study composition and for the control.

[0121] Table 8 summarizes the results obtained in the statistical analysis for the comparison between the study composition and the control.

[0122] Table 8. Summary data from the statistical analysis of the comparison between the composition and the control of Test 3 REPLACEMENT SHEET (RULE 26)

[0123] According to the results obtained in the statistical analysis, it was possible to observe that:

[0124] Application of the study composition provided a significant increase (P < 0.05) in skin pH after 30, 60, and 90 minutes compared to the control. Despite the increase, the study composition maintained the pH within the normal physiological range (4.6 to 5.8). TEST 4: Assessment of skin pH (long kinetics) after application of the study composition

[0125] The purpose of this study was to evaluate the variation in skin pH after 30 days of home use of the study composition.

[0126] 12 participants aged 52 ± 7 years completed the study.

[0127] The participants' phototype according to the Fitzpatrick scale is distributed as follows: 8% phototype II, 25% phototype III and 67% phototype IV.

[0128] Participants were instructed to discontinue use of any cosmetic products on their face 48 hours before the start of the study and not to use any products during the study period.

[0129] Participants were instructed to scoop out a small amount of the study composition with the spatula and apply it to the eye area, massaging it in with their fingers until completely absorbed. Participants were also instructed to use the study composition at least once a day.

[0130] Participants were also given additional instructions to follow during the study, such as: - Do not apply any product to the experimental area that could interfere with the study evaluation; - Do not change aesthetic habits, including hygiene; - Do not perform aesthetic treatments in the application area of the REPLACEMENT SHEET (RULE 26) composition of the study; - Do not expose yourself excessively to the sun and do not use tanning beds; - Do not change eating habits; - Do not change hormonal treatment; - Do not change the contraceptive medication method; and - Do not use medications described in the study exclusion criteria.

[0131] Skin pH assessment was performed at baseline and after 30 days of home use of the study composition.

[0132] At baseline, participants remained for 30 minutes in a climate-controlled environment at 20°C ± 2 and 50% ± 5 relative humidity before beginning measurements. After the stabilization period, basal pH measurements were obtained.

[0133] After 30 days of home use, new skin pH measurements were taken.

[0134] Skin pH measurements were performed with the Skin-pHmeter® probe attached to the Multi Probe Adapter, MPA 5, (CKeletronics, Germany).

[0135] From the pH values obtained, the variation in skin pH (ApH) was calculated at each evaluation time, in relation to the basal condition. The ApH parameter was calculated according to the same Equation 2 as in Test 3: Equation 2: ApH = pHti - pHto in which: pHü = average of the pH values obtained after 30 days. pHto = average of the pH values obtained at the beginning of the study.

[0136] Figure 9 shows the mean skin pH values obtained throughout the study.

[0137] The significance of skin pH variation for the study composition and control was assessed by applying the REPLACEMENT SHEET (RULE 26) bimodal paired Student's t-test, considering a 95% confidence interval, to the skin pH values obtained at the beginning of the study, compared to the values obtained after 30 days of home use.

[0138] Table 9 summarizes the results obtained in the statistical analysis to assess the significance of skin pH variation throughout the long-kinetic study.

[0139] Table 9. Summary data from statistical analysis of significance in skin pH (long kinetics)

[0140] According to the study protocol and the procedures used to assess skin pH, it was possible to observe that there was no significant variation (P > 0.05) in skin pH values after 30 days of home use of the study composition. This indicated that the study composition maintains the skin's natural pH. TEST 5: Assessment of skin hydration by corneometry after application of the study composition.

[0141] Dry skin is characterized by a lack of radiance and flexibility, with a rough texture and a tendency to flake. This skin type requires special care, as a lack of hydration can compromise its integrity. Assessing skin water content is essential in studies analyzing the effectiveness of hydrating cosmetic products.

[0142] The aim of this study was to evaluate skin hydration after application of the study composition by corneometry.

[0143] 12 participants aged 52 ± 7 years completed the study.

[0144] The participants' phototype according to the Fitzpatrick scale is distributed as follows: 8% phototype II, 25% phototype III and 67% phototype IV. REPLACEMENT SHEET (RULE 26)

[0145] Participants were instructed to discontinue the use of any cosmetic products on their forearms 48 hours before the start of the study and not to apply any product to the experimental area that could interfere with the study evaluation.

[0146] Two areas (called sites) measuring 2.5 x 4.0 cm were marked on the volar forearms of study participants. Application of the study compound and control (skin without compound application) was randomized between sites.

[0147] Participants remained for 30 minutes in a climate-controlled environment at 20°C ± 2°C and 50% ± 5% relative humidity before beginning measurements. After the stabilization period, baseline capacitance measurements were obtained at the marked locations (before application of the composition). The study composition was then applied uniformly to the marked locations, and participants remained in the laboratory for measurements after 15 minutes, 2, 4, and 8 hours. The following day, participants returned to the laboratory for measurements 24 hours after application of the study composition.

[0148] Corneometry is a commonly used technique to determine the water content of the stratum corneum through capacitance measurements. The dielectric constant of water is higher than that of skin, and an increase in water content can increase capacitance values—the ability to store an electric charge gradient.

[0149] Capacitance measurements were performed with the Corneometer® 825 probe coupled to the Multi Probe Adapter, MPA 5, (Electronics, Germany).

[0150] From the capacitance values (called h), the variation in capacitance measurements (Ah), the skin hydration provided by the study composition in relation to the control (H) and the percentage of improvement in skin hydration (H%) were calculated using Equations 3, 4 and 5, respectively: REPLACEMENT SHEET (RULE 26)

[0151] Equation 3 calculates the difference in skin hydration at each assessment time in relation to baseline measurements (Ah): Equation 3: Ahti = hti - h in which: hi = average of the capacitance values obtained after 15 minutes, 2, 4, 8 and 24 hours. hw = average of the capacitance values obtained at the beginning of the study.

[0152] Equation 4 calculates the skin hydration provided by the study composition relative to the control (HÜ) Equation 4: Hti = Ahcomposition ■ Ahcontrol in which: Ahcomposition and Ahcontrol = differences in skin hydration calculated for the study and control composition sites, respectively.

[0153] Equation 5 calculates the percentage improvement in skin hydration (%Hti) Equation 5: %Hts = 100 x H / hw in which: H = skin hydration values calculated for the study composition. hto = mean capacitance values obtained at the beginning of the study.

[0154] Figures 10 and 11 show the average values of capacitance (h) and the percentage increase in skin hydration (%H) obtained throughout the study, respectively.

[0155] Basal homogeneity was assessed by applying the bimodal paired Student's t-test method, considering a 95% confidence interval, to the capacitance values obtained for the composition and the control at the beginning of the study.

[0156] Table 10 summarizes the results obtained in the statistical analysis to assess basal homogeneity.

[0157] Table 10. Summary data from the statistical analysis of the baseline homogeneity of Test 5 REPLACEMENT SHEET (RULE 26)

[0158] According to the result obtained, there was no significant difference (P > 0.05) between the baseline capacitance values between the locations where the study composition was applied and the respective control, indicating baseline homogeneity between them.

[0159] The significance of the variation in skin hydration, for the study composition and the control, was assessed by applying the bimodal paired Student's T-test method, considering a 95% confidence interval, to the capacitance values obtained at the beginning of the study, compared to the values obtained after 15 minutes, 2, 4, 8 and 24 hours.

[0160] Table 11 summarizes the results obtained in the statistical analysis to assess the significance of the variation in skin hydration throughout the study.

[0161] Table 11. Summary data from the statistical analysis of significance in skin hydration

[0162] According to the results obtained in the statistical analysis, it was possible to observe that: REPLACEMENT SHEET (RULE 26)

[0163] There was no significant variation (P > 0.05) in capacitance values at the control site after 15 minutes, 2, 4, 8, and 24 hours, indicating that there was no significant change in skin hydration.

[0164] For the composition, a significant increase (P < 0.05) was observed in capacitance values after 15 minutes, 2, 4, 8 and 24 hours, indicating that the application of the composition provided an increase in skin hydration for up to 24 hours.

[0165] The significance of increased skin hydration due to the application of the composition compared to the control was assessed using the bimodal paired Student's t-test, considering a 95% confidence interval, for the Ah data calculated for the composition and the control. Table 12 summarizes the results obtained in the statistical analysis for the comparison between the composition and the control.

[0166] Table 12. Summary data from the statistical analysis of the comparison between the composition and the control of Test 5

[0167] According to the results obtained in the statistical analysis, and in accordance with the study protocol and the procedures used to evaluate the increase in skin hydration, it was possible to observe that:

[0168] The increase in skin hydration provided by REPLACEMENT SHEET (RULE 26) study composition was significantly higher (P < 0.05) after 15 minutes, 2, 4, 8 and 24 hours of application, when compared to the control (skin without application of any product).

[0169] It was also observed that 100% of the study participants showed improvement in skin hydration after 15 minutes, 2, 4, 8 and 24 hours of application.

[0170] The study composition kept skin hydrated for up to 24 hours after application.

[0171] The study composition increased skin hydration levels by up to 56.6%.

[0172] Having described an example of a preferred embodiment and tests carried out with said example, it should be understood that the scope of the present invention encompasses other possible variations, being limited solely by the content of the claims alone, including possible equivalents. REPLACEMENT SHEET (RULE 26)

Claims

CLAIMS 1. Anti-aging cosmetic complex, characterized by the fact that it comprises Ingá (Inga edulis) and a retinol derivative.

2. Anti-aging cosmetic complex according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises: (i) about 0.01% to about 1% of Ingá; and (ii) about 0.01% to about 2% of retinol derivative, in relation to the total weight of a cosmetic composition to which the complex is conveyed.

3. Anti-aging cosmetic complex according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it comprises: (i) about 0.05% of Ingá; and (ii) approximately 0.05% of retinol derivative, in relation to the total weight of a cosmetic composition to which the complex is conveyed.

4. Anti-aging cosmetic complex according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the retinol derivative is selected from a group consisting of Retinol Linoleate (Retinol-L), Retinol Acetate, and Retinol Palmitate.

5. Anti-aging cosmetic complex according to claim 1, characterized in that it further comprises caffeine, glycerin, Hymenaea courbaril (Jatobá), Schinus terebinthfolius (Aroeira), Casearia sylvestris (Guaçatonga), Squalane and Theobroma cacao (cocoa butter).

6. Cosmetic composition, characterized by the fact that it comprises: REPLACEMENT SHEET (RULE 26) (i) an anti-aging cosmetic complex as defined in any one of claims 1 to 5; and (ii) cosmetically acceptable vehicles.

7. Cosmetic composition according to claim 6, characterized in that it is for use in the eye region for: - promote skin hydration for up to 24 hours; and / or - keep eye makeup lasting longer; and / or - improve the appearance of makeup; and / or - brighten the skin; and / or - reduce expression lines and wrinkles, and / or - reduce dry skin; and / or - prevent the appearance of sagging and other signs of aging; and / or - promote the maintenance of the skin's natural pH.

8. Use of the complex as defined in any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it is in the manufacture of a cosmetic composition for the eye region for: - promote skin hydration for up to 24 hours; and / or - keep eye makeup lasting longer; and / or - improve the appearance of makeup; and / or - brighten the skin; and / or - reduce expression lines and wrinkles, and / or - reduce dry skin; and / or - prevent the appearance of sagging and other signs of aging; and / or - promote the maintenance of the skin's natural pH. REPLACEMENT SHEET (RULE 26) 9. Method for cosmetic treatment, characterized by the fact that it comprises applying to the eye region a cosmetic composition as defined in claim 6 or 7. REPLACEMENT SHEET (RULE 26)

Citation Information

Patent Citations

  • Hyaluronic acid decomposition inhibitor comprising rosemary extract and retinol acetate

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