Discoloring composition for keratin fibers dyed with oxidative DYES or direct dyes
An aqueous composition with organic sulfinic acids and solvents effectively discolors hair dyed with oxidative or direct dyes, achieving superior discoloration with minimal damage by reducing dyes to monomers.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- PCT/EP2025/064274
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2024-05-24
- Filing Date
- 2025-05-23
- Publication Date
- 2025-11-27
AI Technical Summary
Conventional methods for removing oxidative and direct hair dyes cause significant damage and lightening of hair due to the destruction of natural melanin, while reductive methods lack performance.
An aqueous composition comprising organic sulfinic acids and organic solvents like benzyl alcohol and propylencarbonate, used separately until application, effectively discolors hair with minimal damage by reducing dyes to monomers.
The composition achieves superior discoloration with enhanced washout of dyes and minimal hair damage, addressing the limitations of existing methods.
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Abstract
Description
[0001] DISCOLORING COMPOSITION FOR KERATIN FIBERS DYED WITH OXIDATIVE
[0002] DYES OR DIRECT DYES
[0003] Field of the invention
[0004] The present invention is directed to a cosmetic composition for discoloring keratin fibers having been dyed with oxidative dyes or directed dyes. A kit-of-parts and bleaching / decoloring method is disclosed.
[0005] Background of the invention
[0006] Consumers demand long-lasting high-performance products for perfectly covering gray hair. Such products typically comprise oxidative hair dyes. However, fashion trends are quickly changing, and the long lastingness of oxidative hair dyes may be perceived as a disadvantage for customers desiring a new look instantly. Therefore, there is a need for products being able to remove oxidative and direct hair dyes.
[0007] Conventional color removing products use the so-called "bleach wash" method, i.e. , the oxidative destruction of oxidative hair dyes with the help of persulfates and peroxides. Unfortunately, these techniques confer a high degree of damage to the hair fibers. Moreover, these techniques always lead to significant lightening of the hair because the natural melanin is destroyed along with the artificial dyes.
[0008] Contrary to the oxidative color removal, reductive color removal techniques use reducing agents which are more selective to artificial dyes. The multimeric oxidative dyes within the hair fibers are reduced to monomers and can consequently be washed out of the fibers due to the smaller molecular weight of monomers. The oxidative damage is low and there is no destruction of the natural melanin. Thus, no additional lightening of the hair appears.
[0009] Unfortunately, the performance of the reductive techniques is lower in comparison to the oxidative ones, and, therefore, there is a real need to develop reductive color removing compositions with improved performance.
[0010] Summary of the invention
[0011] The first object of the present invention is an aqueous composition for discoloring keratin fibers dyed with oxidative dyes and / or direct dyes, preferably human keratin fibers, more preferably human hair, comprising: a) one or more organic sulfinic acid(s), and / or their salt(s), and / or their mixtures, b) one or more organic solvent(s), and / or their mixtures, wherein the total concentration of one or more compound(s) according to group b) is 10% by weight or more, calculated to the total weight of the composition, wherein the one or more compound(s) according to group b) are benzyl alcohol and / or propylencarbonate.
[0012] The second object of the present invention is a kit-of-parts for discoloring keratin fibers dyed with oxidative dyes and / or direct dyes, preferably human keratin fibers, more preferably human hair, comprising:
[0013] - a composition A comprising one or more compound(s) according to group a) as defined above,
[0014] - an aqueous composition B comprising one or more compound(s) according to groups b) as defined above at a total concentration of 10% by weight or more, calculated to the total weight of composition B, wherein the compositions A and B are kept separate until immediately prior to application onto keratin fibers.
[0015] The third object of the present invention is a method for discoloring keratin fibers dyed with oxidative dyes and / or direct dyes, preferably human keratin fibers, more preferably human hair, comprising the following steps: i) providing the composition as defined above or mixing, dispersing and / or dissolving the compositions A and B as defined above to yield an aqueous ready-to-use discoloring composition having a pH in the range of 1 to 9, then ii) applying the ready-to-use discoloring composition onto keratin fibers, then iii) and leaving it for a time period in the range of 1 to 60 min, then iv) rinsing-off the ready-to-use discoloring composition with water and optionally drying the keratin fibers.
[0016] Detailed description of the invention
[0017] The inventors of the present invention have surprisingly and unexpectedly found that compositions, kits, and methods according to the claims of the present invention yield a discoloring product with superior discoloration effect on keratin fibers being dyed with oxidative and / or direct dyes. In addition, the washout of the dyes from the fibers was enhanced and the damage to the fibers was minimal.
[0018] Composition for discoloring dyed keratin fibers
[0019] The present invention is directed to an aqueous composition for discoloring keratin fibers dyed with oxidative dyes and / or direct dyes, preferably human keratin fibers, more preferably human hair, comprising: a) one or more organic sulfinic acid(s), and / or their mixtures, b) one or more organic solvent(s) and / or one or more lipophilic compound(s), and / or their mixtures, wherein the total concentration of one or more compound(s) according to group b) is 10% by weight or more, calculated to the total weight of the composition, wherein the one or more compound(s) according to group b) are benzyl alcohol and / or propylencarbonate.
[0020] The composition of the present invention comprises one or more organic sulfinic acid(s), and / or their salt(s), and / or their mixtures, as compound(s) according to group a).
[0021] Suitably, one or more compound(s) according to group a) is according to the following general structure: oR2
[0022] } R3
[0023] R1° R4
[0024] With the provision that Ri is selected from H, NH4+or a monovalent metal cation, R2 is selected from OH, NR5R6 in which R5 and Re, which may be identical or different, are chosen from H or Ci-Ce alkyl, R3 is selected from H, alkyl, alkenyl, cycloalkyl or aryl which is / are unsubstituted or substituted by 1 to 3 identical or different substituents chosen from OH, Ci-Ce alkyl, O-Ci-Ce alkyl, halogen or CF3, R4 is chosen from a radical COOR1, SO3R1, CORs, CONR5R6 or COORs in which R1, R5, and Re have the denotations as above, or R4 denotes H in case R3 denotes an aryl group, in particular an aryl group substituted as described above, and / or their salt(s), and / or their mixtures. Suitable monovalent metal cations are all cosmetically acceptable cations such as sodium and potassium.
[0025] Suitable examples for compound(s) according to group a) are furyl-(amino)- methanesulfinic acid, amino-(thien-2-yl)-methanesulfinic acid, amino-(1 H-imidazol-2- yl)-methanesulfinic acid, amino-(1 ,3-thiazol-2-yl)-methanesulfinic acid, amino-(1 ,3- oxazol-2-yl)-methanesulfinic acid, amino-(1 H-pyrrol-2-yl)-methanesulfinic acid, amino-(hydroxyl-2-yl)-methanesulfinic acid, amino-(hydroxyl-4-yl)-methanesulfinic acid, amino-[3-hydroxy-5-(hydroxymethyl)-2-methylpyridin-4-yl]-methanesulfinic acid, amino-(quinolin-2-yl)-methanesulfinic acid, amino-(quinolin-4-yl)-methanesulfinic acid, 1 H-Benzimidazol-2-yl-(amino)-methanesulfinic acid, 1 ,3-benzothiazol-2-yl- (amino)-methanesulfinic acid, 1 ,3-benzoxazol-2-yl-(amino)-methanesulfinic acid, hydroxy-(thien-2-yl)-methanesulfinic acid, hydroxy-(thien-3-yl)-methanesulfinic acid, 3-bromothien-2-yl)-(hydroxyl)-methanesulfinic acid, hydroxy-(1 H-imidazol-2-yl)- methanesulfinic acid, hydroxy-(1 H-imidazol-5-yl)-methanesulfinic acid, hydroxy-(1- methyl-5-nitro-1 H-imidazol-2-yl)-methanesulfinic acid, hydroxy-(1 , 3-thiazol-2-yl)- methanesulfinic acid, hydroxy-(1 ,3-oxazol-2-yl)-methanesulfinic acid, hydroxy-(1 H- pyrrol-2-yl)-methanesulfinic acid, hydroxy-(hydroxyl-2-yl)-methanesulfinic acid, hydroxy-(hydroxyl-4-yl)-methanesulfinic acid, hydroxy-[3-hydroxy-5-(hydroxymethyl)- 2-methylpyridin-4-yl]-methanesulfinic acid, hydroxy-(quinolin-2-yl)-methanesulfinic acid, hydroxy-(quinolin-4-yl)-methanesulfinic acid, 1 H-benzimidazol-2-yl-(hydroxyl)- methanesulfinic acid, 1 ,3-benzothiazol-2-yl-(hydroxyl)-methanesulfinic acid, 1 ,3- Benzoxazol-2-yl-(hydroxy)-methanesulfinic acid, 1 ,2-dihydroxyethane-1 , 2-disulf inic acid, 1 ,3-dihydroxypropane-1 ,3-disulfinic acid, hydroxy-{4-[hydroxy(sulfino)methyl]- phenylj-methanesulfinic acid, {2-chloro-3-[hydroxy-(sulfino)-methyl]-cyclohexyl}- (hydroxy)-methanesulfinic acid, {2-chloro-3-[hydroxyl(sulfino)methyl]cyclopentyl}- (hydroxyl)-methanesulfinic acid, Hydroxy-{5-[hydroxy-(sulfino)-methyl]thien-2-yl}- methanesulfinic acid, hydroxy-{2-[hydroxy(sulfino)-methyl]phenyl}-methanesulfinic acid, hydroxy-{3-[hydroxy-(sulfino)-methyl]-phenyl}-methanesulfinic acid, 1 ,5- dihydroxypentane-1 ,5-disulfinic acid, 4-hydroxy-4-sulfinobutanoic acid, 1-Hydroxy-4- methoxy-4-oxobutane-1 -sulfinic acid, 1 -Hydroxy-4-ethoxy-4-oxobutane-1 -sulfinic acid, 4-Hydroxy-4-sulfinopentanoic acid, 2-Hydroxy-5-methoxy-5-oxopentane-2- sulfinic acid, 2-Hydroxy-5-ethoxy-5-oxopentane-2 -sulfinic acid, 4-Hydroxy-4- sulfinobut-2-enoic acid, 1 -Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4-oxobut-2-ene-1 -sulfinic acid, 1 - Hydroxy-4-ethoxy-4-oxobut-2-ene-1 -sulfin ic acid, 4-hydroxy-4-sulfinopent-2-enoic acid, 2-Hydroxy-5-methoxy-5-oxopent-3-ene-2-sulfinic acid, 2-Hydroxy-5-ethoxy-5- oxopent-3-ene-2-sulfinic acid, 5-Hydroxy-5-sulfinopentanoic acid, 1-Hydroxy-5- methoxy-5-oxopentane-1 -sulfinic acid, 1 -Hydroxy-5-ethoxy-5-oxopentane-1 -sulfinic acid, 5-hydroxy-5-sulfinohexanoic acid, 2-Hydroxy-6-methoxy-6-oxohexane-2-sulfinic acid, 2-Hydroxy-6-ethoxy-6-oxohexane-2-sulfinic acid, 4-[Hydroxy-(sulfino)-methyl]- benzoic acid, 4-[amino-(sulfino)-methyl]-benzoic acid, {4-[Hydroxy-(sulfino)-methyl]- phenoxy}-acetic acid, {4-[amino-(sulfino)-methyl]-phenoxy}-acetic acid, 3-Hydroxy-4- [hydroxy-(sulfino)-methyl]-benzoic acid, 3-Hydroxy-4-[amino-(sulfino)-methyl]-benzoic acid, (4-cyanophenyl)-(hydroxy)-methanesulfinic acid, [(2-Methoxy-2-oxoethyl)- amino]-(oxo)-methane-sulfinic acid, 2-Hydroxy-2-sulfinoacetic acid, 2-amino-2- sulfino-acetic acid, (4-cyanophenyl)-(amino)-methane-sulfinic acid,(4-nitrophenyl)- (hydroxy)-methane-sulfinic acid, (4-nitrophenyl)-(amino)-methane-sulfinic acid, 4- hydroxy-1 , 1 -dimethyl-4-sulfinopiperidinium, 1 -allyl-4-hydroxy-1 -methyl-4- sulfinopiperidinium, 2-Hydroxy-2-sulfino-propionic acid, 2-amino-2 -sulfino-propionic acid, 2-Hydroxy-2-sulfinato-acetic acid ethyl ester, 2-Amino-2-sulfinato-acetic acid ethyl ester, 4-Hydroxy-1 ,1-dimethylpiperidinium-4-sulfinate,1 -Allyl 4-hydroxy-1- methylpiperidinium-4-sulfinate, 1-Hydroxy-2-(trimethylammonio)-ethane-sulfinate, Hydroxy-[4-(trimethylammonio)-phenyl]-methane-sulfinate, 4-[Hydroxy-(sulfino)- methyl]-benzene-sulfonic acid, 2-[Hydroxy-(sulfino)-methyl]-benzene-sulfonic acid, 3- Hydroxy-3-sulfinato-propionic acid, 3-amino-3-sulfinato-propionic acid, 1 -Hydroxy-2 - methoxy-2-oxoethanesulfinic acid, 2-amino-1-hydroxy-2-oxoethanesulfinic acid, 2- (dimethylamino)-l -hydroxy-2-oxoethanesulfinic acid, hydroxy-(sulfino)-methane- sulfonic acid, Hydroxy-(phenyl)-methane-sulfinic acid, hydroxy-(4-hydroxyphenyl)- methanesulfinic acid, hydroxy-(4-methoxyphenyl)-methane-sulfinic acid, and / or their salt(s), and / or their mixtures.
[0026] Preferably, form the viewpoint of reducing power, one or more compound(s) according to group a) has the following structure:
[0027] With Ri having the same denotation as above. The most preferred compound(s) according to group a) is / are 2-hydroxy-2- sulfinoacetic acid, and / or its salts, preferably it is disodium-2-hydroxy-2- sulfinatoacetate.
[0028] It is preferred from the viewpoint of color removal that the total concentration of one or more compound(s) according to group a) is in the range of 0.1 % to 50% by weight, preferably in the range of 0.25% to 40% by weight, more preferably in the range of 0.5% to 30% by weight, still more preferably in the range of 1 % to 20% by weight, still more preferably in the range of 3% to 12% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
[0029] The composition of the present invention comprises one or more organic solvent(s), and / or their mixtures, said organic solvents are benzyl alcohol and propylencarbonate.
[0030] The total concentration of the one or more compound(s) according to group b), i.e. the total concentration of benzyl alcohol and / or propylenecarbonate, in the composition of the present invention is 10% by weight or more, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
[0031] It is preferred from the viewpoint of discoloration performance that the total concentration of compound(s) according to group b), i.e. the total concentration of benzyl alcohol and / or propylenecarbonate, is 15% by weight or more, preferably 20% by weight or more, more preferably 25% by weight or more, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
[0032] Suitably, the total concentration of compound(s) according to group b), i.e. the total concentration of benzyl alcohol and / or propylenecarbonate, in the composition of the present invention is in the range of 10% to 80% by weight, preferably in the range of 15% to 75% by weight, more preferably in the range of 20% to 70% by weight, still more preferably in the range of 25% to 65% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
[0033] As the composition of the present invention is an aqueous composition, it is preferred that the composition comprises water at 20% by weight or more, preferably at 25% by weight or more, still more preferably at 30% by weight or more, calculated to the total weight of the composition. It is further preferred from the viewpoint of stability and acidity that the composition of the present invention comprises one or more sulfonic acid compound according to the following general structure:
[0034] With the provision that R? is selected from H, NH4+or a monovalent metal cation, Rs is selected from OH, NR11R12 in which R11 and R12, which may be identical or different, are chosen from H or Ci-Ce alkyl, R9 is selected from H, alkyl, alkenyl, cycloalkyl or aryl which is / are unsubstituted or substituted by 1 to 3 identical or different substituents chosen from OH, Ci-Ce alkyl, O-Ci-Ce alkyl, halogen or CF3, R10 is chosen from a radical COOR7, SO3R7, CORn, CONR11R12 or COOR11 in which R7, R11 and R12 have the denotations as above, or R10 denotes H when R9 denotes an aryl group, in particular an aryl group substituted as described above, and / or their salt(s), and / or their mixtures, preferably one or more said compound(s) have the following structure:
[0035] R7O OH o=s - H o iF CTOOR7
[0036] With R7 having the same denotation as above, more preferably one or more sulfonic acid compound is disodium-2-hydroxy-2-sulfonatoacetate.
[0037] When the sulfonic acid compounds are present, it is preferred that the total concentration of sulfonic acid compounds is in the range of 0.1 % to 40% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
[0038] It is further preferred that the composition of the present invention is an aqueous composition comprising water at 50% by weight or more, preferably at 60% by weight or more, still more preferably at 70% by weight or more, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
[0039] It is preferred from the viewpoint of cosmetic safety that the pH of the composition is 1 or more, preferably 2 or more, still more preferably 2.5 or more. It is preferred from the viewpoint of stability that the pH of the composition is 6 or less, preferably 5 or less, still more preferably 4.5 or less.
[0040] For attaining the above-mentioned effects, it is preferred that the pH of the composition is in the range of 1 to 6, more preferably in the range of 2 to 5, still more preferably in the range of 2.5 to 4.5.
[0041] It is further preferred that the composition of the present invention comprises one or more organic reducing agent(s) having at least one thiol group(s), and / or their salt(s), and / or their mixtures, as compound(s) according to group c), and preferably the molar ratio of compound(s) according to group a) to compound(s) according to group c) is in the range of 10:0.1 to 0.1 : 10, preferably in the range of 3: 1 to 1 :4, more preferably it is in the range of 1 .5: 1 to 1 : 1 .5.
[0042] The term ‘thiol group’ has its common meaning in the field of chemistry, i.e. , it is an unmodified thiol group able to act as reducing moiety within the molecule of the organic compound.
[0043] Suitably, the one or more compound(s) according to group c) is / are cysteine, cystine, cysteamine, thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, and / or their salt(s), and / or their mixtures, preferably it is cysteine and / or its salt(s), from the viewpoint of commercial availability.
[0044] Lipophilic compounds
[0045] Preferably, the composition of the present invention one or more lipophilic compound(s), suitably one or more vegetable or mineral oil(s), C12 to C22 fatty alcohols, esters of C3 to C22 alcohols with C12 to C22 fatty acids, Cs to C22 fatty acids, one or more silicone(s), and / or their mixtures, preferably said compounds are castor oil, olive oil, safflower oil, shea butter oil, argan oil, almond oil, avocado oil, ricinus oil, coconut oil, palm oil, sesame oil, peanut oil, sunflower oil, peach kernel oil, wheat germ oil, macadamia nut oil, night primrose oil, jojoba oil, soya oil, passiflora oil, black cumin oil, borage oil, grapeseed oil, macadamia oil, rosehip oil, hempseed oil, mineral oil, paraffinum perliquidium, paraffinum subliquidum, polydecenes, C13-C20 alkanes, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid, behenic acid, isopropylmyristate, isopropylpalmitate, myristyl myristate, palmityl palmitate, isocetyl palmitate, octyl stearate, oleyl oleate, ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, myristyl myristate, behenyl behenate, oleic acid, linoleic acid, palmitic acid, silicones such as aminated or non-aminated silicones, and / or their mixtures, more preferably said compounds are castor oil, mineral oil, cetearyl alcohol, and isopropyl myristate, and / or their mixtures.
[0046] Preferably, the total concentration of lipophilic compounds is in the range of 0.1 % to 40% by weight, more preferably in the range of 0.5% to 30% by weight, still more preferably in the range of 1 % to 25% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
[0047] Surfactants
[0048] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more surfactant(s) preferably one or more non-ionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactant surfactant(s), and / or their salt(s), and / or their mixtures.
[0049] Anionic surfactants suitable are in principle known from the cleansing compositions. These are anionic surfactants of the sulfate, sulfonate, carboxylate and alkyl phosphate type, for example, the known C -Cis-alkyl sulfates, and in particular the respective ether sulfates, for example, Ci2-Ci4-alkyl ether sulfate, lauryl ether sulfate, especially with 1 to 4 ethylene oxide groups in the molecule, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide sulfates obtained by ethoxylation and subsequent sulfatation of fatty acid alkanolamides, and the alkali salts thereof, as well as the salts of long-chain mono- and dialkyl phosphates. Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulphate surfactants especially lauryl sulphate and its salts.
[0050] Suitable amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants are in particular the various known betaines such as alkyl betaines, fatty acid amidoalkyl betaines and sulfobetaines, for example, lauryl hydroxysulfobetaine; long-chain alkyl amino acids, such as cocoaminoacetate, cocoaminopropionate and sodium cocoamphopropionate and - acetate are also suitable.
[0051] Typical cationic surfactants are cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, stearyl trimonium chloride, dipalmitoyl dimonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, stearamidopropyl trimonuim chloride, dioleoylethyl dimethyl ammonium methosulfate, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate.
[0052] The preferred surfactants are nonionic surfactants. Non-limiting examples are long- chain fatty acid mono- and dialkanolamides, such as coco fatty acid mono- or diethanolamide and myristic fatty acid mono or diethanolamide, stearic acid mono or diethanolamide, alkyl polyglucosides with an alkyl group of 8 to 18 carbon atoms, and with 1 to 5 glucoside units, sorbitan esters, such as polyethylene glycol sorbitan stearic, palmitic, myristic and lauric acid esters, fatty acid polyglycol esters or polycondensates of ethyleneoxide and propyleneoxide, as they are on the market, for example, under the trade name "PluronicsR", as well as ethoxylated fatty alcohols, C -C22-fatty alcohol ethoxylates, known by the generic terms "Laureth", "Myristeth", "Oleth", "Ceteth", "Deceth", "Steareth" and "Ceteareth" according to the CTFA nomenclature, including addition of the number of ethylene oxide molecules, e.g., "Laureth-16": The average degree of ethoxylation thereby ranges between about 2.5 and about 100, preferably about 10 and about 30.
[0053] Preferably, the one or more non-ionic surfactant(s) are selected from alkyl polyglycosides, ethoxylated triglycerides, ethoxylated fatty alcohols, ethoxylated fatty acid esters, and / or their mixtures, still more preferably said compound(s) are selected from ethoxylated C10-C22 fatty alcohols.
[0054] It is further preferred that the concentration one or more surfactant(s), preferably the total concentration of non-ionic surfactant(s), still more preferably the total concentration of ethoxylated C10-C22 fatty alcohols, is in the range from 0.1 % to 25% by weight, preferably in the range of 0.25% to 20% by weight, more preferably in the range of 0.5% to 15% by weight, still more preferably in the range of 1 % to 10% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
[0055] In a further preferred aspect, the composition of the present invention is an emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion. Suitably, the compounds according to group d) as disclosed above are present.
[0056] Additional reducing agents
[0057] It is further preferred from the viewpoint of discoloring performance that the composition of the present invention comprises one or more additional reducing agent(s) different from the group(s) according to a) and c), preferably the one or more additional reducing agent(s) is ascorbic acid, and more preferably the total concentration of ascorbic acid is in the range of 0.1 % to 10% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
[0058] Kit-of-parts
[0059] The present invention is also directed to a kit-of-parts for discoloring keratin fibers dyed with oxidative dyes and / or direct dyes, preferably human keratin fibers, more preferably human hair, comprising:
[0060] - a composition A comprising one or more compound(s) according to group a) as defined above,
[0061] - an aqueous composition B comprising one or more compound(s) according to groups b) as defined above at a total concentration of 10% by weight or more, calculated to the total weight of composition B, wherein the compositions A and B are kept separate until immediately prior to application onto keratin fibers.
[0062] The term ‘aqueous’ has the same denotation as disclosed further above.
[0063] In one aspect of the present invention, it is preferred from the viewpoint of stability and transportation costs that the composition A comprises water at 10% by weight or less, preferably at 1 % by weight or less, more preferably at 0.1 % by weight or less, calculated to the total weight of the composition, more preferably the composition A is anhydrous.
[0064] For this aspect, it is preferred from the viewpoint of discoloring power that the total concentration of one or more compound(s) according to group a) is 1 % by weight or more, preferably 2% by weight or more, more preferably 3% by weight or more, still more preferably 5% by weight or more, calculated to the total weight of the composition A.
[0065] It is preferred from the viewpoint of discoloring power and cosmetic acceptability that the total concentration of one or more compound(s) according to group a) is 60% by weight or less, preferably 50% by weight or less, more preferably 45% by weight or less, calculated to the total weight of the composition A. For attaining the above-mentioned effects, it is preferred that the total concentration of one or more compound(s) according to group a) is in the range of 1 % to 60% by weight, preferably in the range of 2% to 50% by weight, more preferably in the range of 3% to 45% by weight, still more preferably in the range of 5% to 45% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition A.
[0066] Preferably, the composition A is a powder composition.
[0067] A powder composition within the meaning of the present invention is any solid composition at 25°C and atmospheric pressure that consists of freely flowing individual particles / aggregates. A powder composition may comprise liquid agents, though. For example, to make the powder dust-free, it may comprise lipophilic compounds being liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure as disclosed as compound(s) according to group d) at a low percentage. The presence of the lipophilic compounds does not alter the overall state of a powder.
[0068] Hence, the composition A may optionally comprise one or more pulverulent excipient(s) as compound(s) according to group d), preferably one or more compound(s) according to group d) is cellulose, chemically modified cellulose fibers, lignin fibers, pectin fibers, natural starch(es), chemically modified starch(es), hydrolyzed natural starch(es), diatomaceous earth, kaolin, bentonite, nylon powder, montmorillonit, gypsum, sawdust and perlite, and / or their mixtures, more preferably one or more compound(s) according to group d) is a natural starch.
[0069] Suitable natural starches are potato starch, rice starch, com starch, tapioca starch, wheat starch, and barley starch, and / or their mixtures.
[0070] In case the composition A comprises one or more compound(s) according to group d), it is preferred that the total concentration of one or more compound(s) according to group d) is 10% by weight, preferably 20% by weight, more preferably 30% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition A.
[0071] The composition B comprises one or more organic solvent(s) and / or one or more lipophilic compound(s), and / or their mixtures.
[0072] Suitably, the one or more compound(s) according to group b) are one or more organic solvent(s) being fully water-miscible at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, preferably said organic solvents are C2-C6 linear or branched, aliphatic or aromatic mono-, di-, or trialcohols, or said organic solvents are cyclic esters, more preferably said organic solvents are ethanol, n-propanol, isopropanol, n-butanol, tert-butanol, 2- methyl-1 -propanol, benzyl alcohol, propylencarbonate, y-Hexalactone, and / or their mixtures.
[0073] It is preferred from the viewpoint of discoloration performance that the total concentration of compound(s) according to group b) is 15% by weight or more, preferably 20% by weight or more, more preferably 25% by weight or more, calculated to the total weight of the composition B.
[0074] Suitably, the total concentration of compound(s) according to group b) in the composition B is in the range of 10% to 80% by weight, preferably in the range of 15% to 75% by weight, more preferably in the range of 20% to 70% by weight, still more preferably in the range of 25% to 65% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition B.
[0075] As the composition B is an aqueous composition, it is preferred that the composition B comprises water at 20% by weight or more, preferably at 25% by weight or more, still more preferably at 30% by weight or more, calculated to the total weight of the composition B.
[0076] Optionally, the composition B also comprises surfactants at the concentration range as disclosed above for the composition of the present invention.
[0077] Method for discoloring
[0078] The present invention is also directed to a method for discoloring keratin fibers dyed with oxidative dyes and / or direct dyes, preferably human keratin fibers, more preferably human hair, comprising the following steps: i) providing the composition as defined above or mixing, dispersing and / or dissolving the compositions A and B as defined above to yield an aqueous ready-to-use discoloring composition having a pH in the range of 1 to 9, then ii) applying the ready-to-use discoloring composition onto keratin fibers, then iii) and leaving it for a time period in the range of 1 to 60 min, then iv) rinsing-off the ready-to-use discoloring composition with water and optionally drying the keratin fibers.
[0079] It is preferred from the viewpoint of reducing power that the pH of the ready-to-use discoloring composition of step i) is in the range of 1 to 7, more preferably in the range of 1 .5 to 5.
[0080] The preferred application time if step ii) is in the range of 2 min to 45 min, more preferably it is in the range of 5 min to 35 min, still more preferably it is in the range of 10 min to 30 min. The following examples are to illustrate the present invention and not to limit it.
[0081] EXAMPLES
[0082] Table 1
[0083] The following compositions were prepared. The following results on dyed keratin fibers were obtained:
[0084] Table 2
[0085] The inventive compositions comprising the organic solvent yielded a higher degree of discoloration upon application onto dyed keratin fibers in comparison to the comparative composition comprising no such solvent.
[0086] Methods
[0087] Coloring and decoloring
[0088] L*i, a*i, b*i values of Yak hair streaks (8 cm long, 2 g per bundle) were measured with a Datacolor 45 spectrometer. The hair streaks were shampooed with a commercially available shampoo under the brand name Goldwell Dualsenses Scalp Specialist Deep Cleansing Shampoo.
[0089] The following commercially available dyeing compositions were used:
[0090] Goldwell Topchic 6N corresponded to dyeing composition #1 . It comprised the following oxidative dyes: Toluene-2,5-diamine sulfate, 4-Chlororesorcinol, Resorcinol, m-Aminophenol, 4-Amino-2-Hydroxytoluene.
[0091] The dye composition #1 was mixed with an oxidizing composition comprising hydrogen peroxide at 6% by weight in a weight ratio of 1 :1 . The hair streaks were dyed for 30 min at 40°C, then the streaks were rinsed-off with water, shampooed and blow-dried. L*2, a*2, b*2 values were measured with a Datacolor 45 spectrometer. AE*ab color was calculated as follows:
[0092] For bleaching / discoloring the hair streaks, the 2 g of the compositions from above were applied onto the dyed hair streaks and left for 30 min at 40°C. The streaks were then rinsed-off with water, shampooed and blow-dried. L*3, a*3, b*3 values were measured. AE*ab discolored and % discolored was calculated according to the following formula: n % / disco — d -iscolored color
Claims
Claims1 . An aqueous composition for discoloring keratin fibers dyed with oxidative dyes and / or direct dyes, preferably human keratin fibers, more preferably human hair, comprising: a) one or more organic sulfinic acid(s), and / or their salt(s), and / or their mixtures, b) one or more organic solvent(s), and / or their mixtures, wherein the total concentration of one or more compound(s) according to group b) is 10% by weight or more, calculated to the total weight of the composition, wherein the one or more compound(s) according to group b) are benzyl alcohol and / or propylencarbonate.
2. The composition according to claim 1 characterized in that one or more compound(s) according to group a) have the following general structure: oR2}R3R1 ° R4With the provision that Ri is selected from H, NH4+or a monovalent metal cation, R2 is selected from OH, NR5R6 in which R5 and Re, which may be identical or different, are chosen from H or Ci-Ce alkyl, R3 is selected from H, alkyl, alkenyl, cycloalkyl or aryl which is / are unsubstituted or substituted by 1 to 3 identical or different substituents chosen from OH, Ci-Ce alkyl, O-Ci-Ce alkyl, halogen or CF3, R4 is chosen from a radical COOR1, SO3R1, CORs, CONR5R6 or COORs in which R1, R5, and Re have the denotations as above, or R4 denotes H in case R3 denotes an aryl group, in particular an aryl group substituted as described above, and / or their salt(s), and / or their mixtures, preferably one or more compound(s) according to group a) has the following structure:With Ri having the same denotation as above, more preferably one or more compound(s) according to group a) is 2-hydroxy-2-sulfinoacetic acid, and / or its salts, still more preferably it is disodium-2-hydroxy-2-sulfinatoacetate.
3. The composition according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the total concentration of one or more compound(s) according to group a) is in the range of 0.1 % to 50% by weight, preferably in the range of 0.25% to 40% by weight, more preferably in the range of 0.5% to 30% by weight, still more preferably in the range of 1 % to 20% by weight, still more preferably in the range of 3% to 12% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
4. The composition according to any of the claims 1 to 3 characterized in that the total concentration of compound(s) according to group b), preferably the total concentration of benzyl alcohol and / or propylenecarbonate, is in the range of 10% to 80% by weight, preferably in the range of 15% to 75% by weight, more preferably in the range of 20% to 70% by weight, still more preferably in the range of 25% to 65% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
5. The composition according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the composition comprises water at 20% by weight or more, preferably at 25% by weight or more, still more preferably at 30% by weight or more, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
6. The composition according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the composition has a pH in the range of 1 to 6, more preferably in the range of 2 to 5, still more preferably in the range of 2.5 to 4.5.
7. The composition according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the composition comprises one or more organic reducing agent(s) having at least one thiol group(s), and / or their salt(s), and / or their mixtures, as compound(s) according to group c), and preferably the molar ratio of compound(s) according to group a) to compound(s) according to group c) is in the range of 10:0.1 to 0.1 :10, preferably in the range of 3:1 to 1 :4, more preferably it is in the range of 1.5: 1 to 1 : 1 .5.
8. The composition according to claim 7 characterized in that one or more compound(s) according to group c) is / are cysteine, cystine, cysteamine, thioglycolicacid, thiolactic acid, and / or their salt(s), and / or their mixtures, preferably it is cysteine and / or its salt(s).
9. The composition according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the composition further comprises one or more lipophilic compound(s), preferably said lipophilic compound(s) are one or more vegetable or mineral oil(s), C12 to C22 fatty alcohols, esters of C3 to C22 alcohols with C12 to C22 fatty acids, Cs to C22 fatty acids, one or more silicone(s), and / or their mixtures, preferably said compounds are castor oil, olive oil, safflower oil, shea butter oil, argan oil, almond oil, avocado oil, ricinus oil, coconut oil, palm oil, sesame oil, peanut oil, sunflower oil, peach kernel oil, wheat germ oil, macadamia nut oil, night primrose oil, jojoba oil, soya oil, passiflora oil, black cumin oil, borage oil, grapeseed oil, macadamia oil, rosehip oil, hempseed oil, mineral oil, paraffinum perliquidium, paraffinum subliquidum, polydecenes, C13-C20 alkanes, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid, behenic acid, isopropylmyristate, isopropylpalmitate, myristyl myristate, palmityl palmitate, isocetyl palmitate, octyl stearate, oleyl oleate, ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, myristyl myristate, behenyl behenate, oleic acid, linoleic acid, palmitic acid, silicones such as aminated or non-aminated silicones, and / or their mixtures, more preferably said compounds are castor oil, mineral oil, cetearyl alcohol, and isopropyl myristate, and / or their mixtures.
10. The composition according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the composition further comprises one or more surfactant(s), preferably one or more non-ionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactant surfactant(s), and / or their salt(s), and / or their mixtures, more preferably one or more non-ionic surfactant(s), said one or more non-ionic surfactant(s) preferably being alkyl polyglycosides, ethoxylated triglycerides, ethoxylated C10-C22 fatty alcohols, ethoxylated fatty acid esters, and / or their mixtures, still more preferably said compound(s) are selected from ethoxylated fatty alcohols.11 . The composition according to claim 10 characterized in that the total concentration of one or more surfactants, preferably the total concentration of non- ionic surfactant(s), still more preferably the total concentration of ethoxylated fatty alcohols, is in the range from 0.1 % to 25% by weight, preferably in the range of 0.25% to 20% by weight, more preferably in the range of 0.5% to 15% by weight, stillmore preferably in the range of 1 % to 10% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
12. A kit-of-parts for discoloring keratin fibers dyed with oxidative dyes and / or direct dyes, preferably human keratin fibers, more preferably human hair, comprising:- a composition A comprising one or more compound(s) according to group a) as defined in any of the claims 1 to 11 ,- an aqueous composition B comprising one or more compound(s) according to groups b) as defined in any of the claims 1 to 11 at a total concentration of 10% by weight or more, calculated to the total weight of composition B, wherein the compositions A and B are kept separate until immediately prior to application onto keratin fibers.
13. A method for discoloring keratin fibers dyed with oxidative dyes and / or direct dyes, preferably human keratin fibers, more preferably human hair, comprising the following steps: i) providing the composition as defined in any of the claims 1 to 11 or mixing, dispersing and / or dissolving the compositions A and B as defined in claim 12 to yield an aqueous ready-to-use discoloring composition having a pH in the range of 1 to 9, then ii) applying the ready-to-use discoloring composition onto keratin fibers, then iii) and leaving it for a time period in the range of 1 to 60 min, then iv) rinsing-off the ready-to-use discoloring composition with water and optionally drying the keratin fibers.
Citation Information
Patent Citations
Composition, useful for the treatment (e.g. discoloration) of human keratinous fibers, comprises a compound (ethylenediamine-N-N'-disuccinic acid) and an reducing agent
FR2870726B1