Cosmetic composition comprising particular anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants and a cationic galactomannan

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, notably a hair composition, in particular for cleansing and / or conditioning the hair, which is silicone free and comprises sulfate anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, nonionic surfactants of alkyl (poly)glycoside type, cationic galactomannans, and esters of polycarboxylic acid. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process for keratin materials, notably for washing and / or conditioning the hair, using said cosmetic composition.

Description

Cosmetic composition comprising particular anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants and a cationic galactomannan

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, notably a hair composition, comprising a particular combination of surfactants, notably particular sulfate anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants, and one or more particular cationic polymers, and also to a cosmetic treatment process, notably for the hair, using said composition.

[0002] Hair can be damaged and embrittled by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, and / or by mechanical or chemical treatments, such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving and / or relaxing.

[0003] To remedy these drawbacks, it is now common practice to have recourse to hair compositions which make it possible to condition the hair after these treatments to give it in particular sheen, softness, manageability, lightness, and disentangling properties.

[0004] These hair compositions may notably be compositions that are both washing and conditioning, such as conditioning shampoos for example. These compositions generally have good washing power, but the cosmetic properties provided still have room for improvement; conditioning agents, such as silicones, are then generally included in these shampoos. However, these hair compositions are not necessarily entirely satisfactory and can be further improved.

[0005] In particular, washing compositions are sought which make it possible, on the one hand, to generate an abundant foam of good quality, and to make the hair clean and shiny and, on the other hand, to give the hair improved cosmetic properties, notably in terms of disentangling, softness, a smooth feel and smooth appearance, manageability, coating of the fiber and sheen.

[0006] Compositions for washing or cleansing the hair are very particularly sought, which ultimately give the hair a clean and natural feel, without unduly making the hair lank and / or coating it; compositions that make it possible to provide lightness and a feeling of cleanliness to the hair are thus sought.

[0007] This objective is achieved owing to the composition according to the invention, which comprises a particular combination of specific surfactants and cationic polymer.

[0008] Moreover, the formulation of environmentally-friendly cosmetic products, i.e. products whose design and development take account of environmental issues, is becoming a major preoccupation for contributing toward meeting the global challenges. It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions and / or preparation processes and / or ingredients, thus enabling these environmental challenges to be met.

[0009] In this context, it is important to develop novel cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, notably by promoting the use of starting materials that are renewable and / or that have a good naturalness index and / or that are of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin, while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.

[0010] It is thus described a cosmetic composition, preferably a hair composition, which is silicone free, comprising one or more sulfate anionic surfactants, one or more amphoteric surfactants, one or more nonionic surfactants of alkyl (poly)glycoside type, and one or more cationic galactomannans, the weight ratio of, on the one hand, the total amount of amphoteric surfactant(s) to, on the other hand, the total amount of alkyl (poly)glycoside(s) being greater than or equal to 1.

[0011] A subject of the present invention is thus a cosmetic composition, preferably a hair composition, which is silicone free, comprising:

[0012] - one or more sulfate anionic surfactants,

[0013] - one or more amphoteric surfactants,

[0014] - one or more nonionic surfactants of alkyl (poly)glycoside type, and

[0015] - one or more cationic galactomannans,

[0016] - one or more esters of polycarboxylic acid,

[0017] the weight ratio of, on the one hand, the total amount of amphoteric surfactant(s) to, on the other hand, the total amount of alkyl (poly)glycoside(s) being greater than or equal to 1.

[0018] The composition according to the invention has satisfactory foaming power. It allows the production of an abundant foam, which spreads easily on keratin fibers and is easy to remove on rinsing.

[0019] It provides the hair with good cosmetic properties, notably conditioning properties, such as softness, hydration, nutrition, repair, sheen and manageability, and a good level of disentangling.

[0020] It also makes it possible to obtain a "long-lasting cleanliness" effect, that is to say that the hair has a non-greasy, natural feel and a "clean" and non-laden deposit sensation, which can remain between two shampoo washes.

[0021] The composition may advantageously be transparent, but it may also be pearlescent, where appropriate.

[0022] Preferably, the ester or esters of polycarboxylic acid are chosen from esters of citric acid, and preferably is triethyl citrate.

[0023] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a total amount of esters of polycarboxylic acid, preferably of triethyl citrate, ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, preferentially from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0024] The composition according to the invention is silicone free, that is to say it comprises less than 0.1% by weight in total of silicone(s), preferably less than 0.05% by weight, even better still does not comprise any silicone at all (0%).

[0025] The term "silicone" is understood to mean any compound comprising, in its structure, one or more Si-O-Si bonds.

[0026] In particular, the term "silicone" means any organosilicon polymer or oligomer of linear or cyclic and branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes and constituted essentially of a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are connected to each other via oxygen atoms (siloxane bond -Si-O-Si-), optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being connected directly to said silicon atoms via a carbon atom, and more particularly dialkylsiloxane polymers, amino silicones and dimethiconols.

[0027] In the present description, the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more" and can substitute for said expression; the expression "between" is equivalent to the expression "ranging from" and can substitute for said expression, which implies that the limits are included.1 / Sulfate anionic surfactants

[0028] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more sulfate (or sulfated) anionic surfactants.

[0029] The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.

[0030] In the present description, a species is termed as being "anionic" when it has at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized to give a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge.

[0031] As is known per se, anionic surfactants can comprise sulfate, sulfonate and / or carboxylic (or carboxylate) groups (or functions), alone or as a mixture.

[0032] For the purposes of the present invention, sulfate anionic surfactant means an anionic surfactant comprising at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3-), but not comprising any carboxylate functions or sulfonate functions.

[0033] The sulfate anionic surfactants may thus be chosen, alone or as mixtures, from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, and the salts of these compounds, the alkyl groups of these compounds including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 24, even better still from 10 to 20 or even from 10 to 16 carbon atoms, the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group it being possible for these compounds to be (poly)oxyalkylenated, notably (poly)oxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0034] When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt can be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts. Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

[0035] Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.

[0036] Preferably, the sulfate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

[0037] - alkyl sulfates, notably C6-C30, better still C8-C24, even better still C10-C20, or even C10-C16 alkyl sulfates, and also the salts thereof;

[0038] - C6-C30, better still C8-C24, even better still C10-C20, or even C10-C16 alkyl ether sulfates, preferably comprising 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units, and also the salts thereof;

[0039] said salts being in particular chosen from the alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

[0040] Preferentially, the sulfate anionic surfactant or surfactants do not comprise any alkylene oxide groups, in particular no ethylene oxide group or propylene oxide group.

[0041] They are therefore advantageously chosen, alone or as a mixture, from alkyl sulfates, notably C6-C30, better still C8-C24, even better still C10-C20, or even C10-C16 alkyl sulfates, and the salts thereof, notably chosen from alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts, even better still from alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts of alkyl sulfates, notably C6-C30, better still C8-C24, even better still C10-C20, or even C10-C16 alkyl sulfates, advantageously C10-C20, or even C10-C16 alkyl sulfates, and notably alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts of lauryl sulfate, such as sodium lauryl sulfate.

[0042] Advantageously, the total content of sulfate anionic surfactants in the composition according to the invention can range from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 18% by weight, preferentially from 3% to 15% by weight, better still from 4% to 12% by weight, even better still from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0043] Advantageously, the total content of sulfate anionic surfactants chosen, alone or as a mixture, from alkyl sulfates, notably C6-C30, better still C8-C24, even better still C10-C20, or even C10-C16 alkyl sulfates, and the salts thereof, in the composition according to the invention can range from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 18% by weight, preferentially from 3% to 15% by weight, better still from 4% to 12% by weight, even better still from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0044] Advantageously, the total content of anionic surfactants (sulfate anionic surfactants and non-sulfate anionic surfactants when present) in the composition according to the invention can range from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 18% by weight, preferentially from 3% to 15% by weight, better still from 4% to 12% by weight, even better still from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Amphoteric surfactants

[0045] The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more amphoteric surfactants; zwitterionic surfactants are included in the definition of amphoteric surfactants.

[0046] The amphoteric surfactant or surfactants can notably be optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain including from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group, for example.

[0047] Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives that can be used, as defined above, mention may be made of the compounds having the respective formulae (1) and (3) below:

[0048] Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO-, M+, X-(1)

[0049] wherein:

[0050] - Rarepresents a C10to C30alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut kernel oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;

[0051] - Rbrepresents a β-hydroxyethyl group; and

[0052] - Rcrepresents a carboxymethyl group;

[0053] - M+represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; and

[0054] - X-represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4)alkyl- or (C1-C4)alkylaryl sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; or alternatively M+and X-are absent;

[0055] Ra’-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B’) (2)

[0056] wherein:

[0057] - B represents the group -CH2CH2OX’;

[0058] - B’ represents the group -(CH2)zY’, with z = 1 or 2;

[0059] - X’ represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ’, -CH2CH2COOH or CH2CH2-COOZ’, or a hydrogen atom;

[0060] - Y’ represents the group -COOH, -COOZ’ or -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z’;

[0061] - Z’ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;

[0062] - Ra’represents a C10to C30alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra’-COOH which is preferably present in hydrolyzed linseed oil or coconut kernel oil, an alkyl group, notably a C17alkyl group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C17group.

[0063] These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.

[0064] By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate sold by Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate;

[0065] Ra’’-NHCH(Y’’)-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)n’-N(Rd)(Re) (3)

[0066] wherein:

[0067] - Y’’ represents the group -COOH, -COOZ’’ or -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z’’;

[0068] - Rdand Re, independently of each other, represent a C1to C4alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical;

[0069] - Z’’ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;

[0070] - Ra’’represents a C10to C30alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra’’-COOH which is preferably present in hydrolyzed linseed oil or coconut kernel oil;

[0071] - n and n’ denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

[0072] Among the compounds of formula (3), mention may be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and sold by the company Chimex under the name Chimexane HB.

[0073] The amphoteric surfactant or surfactants can also be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, (C8-C20)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines and (C8-C20)alkylamido(C6-C8)alkylsulfobetaines.

[0074] Preferably, the amphoteric surfactant or surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines, the compounds of formula (1) and the compounds of formula (2) as defined previously.

[0075] Better still, the amphoteric surfactant or surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from (C8-C20)alkylbetaines such as cocobetaine, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof, even better still, alone or as a mixture, from (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine.

[0076] Preferably, the total content of the amphoteric surfactant or surfactants in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight, better still from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0077] Preferably, the total content of the amphoteric surfactant or surfactants chosen, alone or as a mixture, from (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines, the compounds of formula (1) and the compounds of formula (2), in the composition according to the invention, can range from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight, better still from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0078] Better still, the total content of the amphoteric surfactant or surfactants chosen from (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines, and mixtures thereof, in the composition according to the invention, can range from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight, better still from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0079] Better still, the total content of the amphoteric surfactant or surfactants chosen from (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines, in the composition according to the invention, can range from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight, better still from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Cationic galactomannans

[0080] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic galactomannans (also referred to as cationic galactomannan gums).

[0081] Cationic galactomannan gums are cationic polymers; this means, for the purposes of the present invention, a polymer comprising cationic groups and / or groups which can be ionized to give cationic groups, and not comprising any anionic groups and / or groups which can be ionized to give anionic groups.

[0082] Said cationic polymers can be associative or non-associative; a mixture of such polymers can also be used. Preferably, the cationic galactomannan gums are non-associative.

[0083] Said polymers are not silicone-based (they do not comprise any Si-O units).

[0084] Advantageously, the cationic galactomannans are chosen from cationic guar gums, preferably comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, notably C1-4 alkyl, for example methyl, ammonium groups.

[0085] Mention may notably be made of guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example a chloride).

[0086] Mention may thus be made of the following, alone or as a mixture:

[0087] - hydroxypropyl derivatives of quaternary ammonium derivatives of hydroxypropyl guar, notably halide salts, in particular chlorides, in particular those having the INCI name: HYDROXYPROPYL GUAR HYDROXYPROPYL TRIMONIUM CHLORIDE

[0088] - quaternary ammonium derivatives (implying they are not hydroxypropylated) of hydroxypropyl guar, notably halide salts, in particular chlorides, in particular trimethylammonium (or trimonium) derivatives of hydroxypropyl guar, notably the halide salts thereof, in particular the chlorides, in particular those having the INCI name: GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE. As commercial products, mention may be made of Jaguar C-13S, Jaguar C-14S and Jaguar C-17 from Solvay.

[0089] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises the cationic galactomannan or galactomannans in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.02% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 2% by weight, or even from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0090] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the cationic galactomannan or galactomannans chosen from cationic guars in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.02% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 2% by weight, or even from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0091] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises the cationic galactomannan or galactomannans chosen from quaternary ammonium derivatives of hydroxypropyl guar, hydroxypropyl derivatives of quaternary ammonium derivatives of hydroxypropyl guar, and mixtures thereof, notably the halide salts thereof, in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.02% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 2% by weight, or even from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Nonionic surfactants of APG type

[0092] The cosmetic composition according to the invention also comprises one or more nonionic surfactants of alkyl (poly)glycoside type, which may advantageously be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from (C8-C30)alkyl (poly)glycosides, (C8-C30)alkenyl (poly)glycosides and esters of (C8-C30)alkyl (poly)glycosides, these compounds optionally being oxyalkylenated.

[0093] The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylene units. The number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide preferably ranges from 1 to 250, more particularly from 2 to 100 and better still from 2 to 50. Advantageously, the nonionic surfactants according to the invention do not comprise oxypropylene units. Preferably, when they do comprise them, they comprise a number of moles of ethylene oxide ranging from 1 to 250, notably from 2 to 100 and better still from 2 to 50.

[0094] Preferably, this or these surfactants comprise from 1 to 15 glucose units.

[0095] The composition according to the invention can notably comprise one or more nonionic surfactants of alkyl (poly)glycosides type, of formula R1O-(R2O)t-(G)v

[0096] wherein:

[0097] - R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical including 6 to 24 carbon atoms, notably 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical, the linear or branched alkyl radical of which includes 6 to 24 carbon atoms, notably 8 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical including from 8 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0098] - R2 represents an alkylene radical including 2 to 4 carbon atoms;

[0099] - G represents a sugar unit including 5 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose, fructose or galactose, better still glucose;

[0100] - t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4, better still from 0 to 3, even better still 0;

[0101] - v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4, the mean degree of polymerization (v) more particularly being between 1 and 2.

[0102] The glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of 1-6 or 1-4 type and preferably of 1-4 type.

[0103] Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant.

[0104] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises, alone or as a mixture, one or more (C8-C30)alkyl (poly)glucosides which are optionally oxyalkylenated, preferably comprising from 1 to 10 mol of ethylene oxide, and comprising 1 to 15 glucose units.

[0105] The nonionic surfactant or surfactants of alkyl (poly)glycoside type may in particular be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from the compounds with the following INCI names: capryl glucoside, caprylyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside and coco glucoside.

[0106] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the nonionic surfactant or surfactants of alkyl (poly)glycoside type in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.08% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0107] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the nonionic surfactant or surfactants chosen from optionally oxyalkylenated (C8-C30)alkyl (poly)glucosides, preferably comprising from 1 to 10 mol of ethylene oxide, and comprising 1 to 15 glucose units, in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.08% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0108] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more additional nonionic surfactants other than the alkyl (poly)glucosides above.

[0109] Mention may notably be made of the following compounds, alone or as a mixture:

[0110] - oxyalkylenated (C8-C24)alkylphenols;

[0111] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated C8-C40 alcohols, preferably including one or two C8-C30 fatty chains;

[0112] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched oxyalkylenated C8-C30 fatty acid amides;

[0113] - esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30 acids and of polyethylene glycols;

[0114] - preferably oxyethylenated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30 acids and of sorbitol;

[0115] - esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30 acids and of (poly)glycerol;

[0116] - C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sucrose;

[0117] - saturated or unsaturated, oxyethylenated plant oils;

[0118] - condensates of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide.

[0119] The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylene units. The number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide preferably ranges from 1 to 250, more particularly from 2 to 100 and better still from 2 to 50; the number of moles of glycerol ranges notably from 1 to 50 and better still from 1 to 10. Advantageously, the nonionic surfactants according to the invention do not comprise oxypropylene units. Preferably, they comprise a number of moles of ethylene oxide ranging from 1 to 250, notably from 2 to 100 and better still from 2 to 50.

[0120] As examples of glycerolated nonionic surfactants, use is preferably made of monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C8-C40 alcohols, comprising from 1 to 50 mol of glycerol and preferably from 1 to 10 mol of glycerol. Mention may be made of lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol. Among the glycerolated alcohols, it is more particularly preferred to use a C8 to C10 alcohol containing one mol of glycerol, a C10 to C12 alcohol containing one mol of glycerol, and a C12 alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol.

[0121] As examples of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30 acids and of (poly)glycerol, use is preferably made of monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated esters of C8-C30, better still C10-C24, acids comprising from 1 to 50 mol of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 10 mol of glycerol.

[0122] Better still, the additional nonionic surfactant or surfactants may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

[0123] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched oxyethylenated C8 to C40 alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50 and more particularly from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide and comprising one or two fatty chains, in particular at least one C8-C20, in particular C10-C18, alkyl chain.

[0124] - esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8 to C30 acids and of (poly)glycerol, notably monoglyceryl oleate and / or polyglyceryl caprates, in particular PG-4 caprate;

[0125] - preferably oxyethylenated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8 to C30 acids and of sorbitol.

[0126] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a total amount of nonionic surfactant(s) (including the alkyl (poly)glycosides and the optional additional nonionic surfactants) ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0127] In the composition according to the invention, the weight ratio of, on the one hand, the total amount of amphoteric surfactant(s) to, on the other hand, the total amount of alkyl (poly)glycoside(s) is greater than or equal to 1, advantageously strictly greater than 1, better still greater than or equal to 5, even better still greater than or equal to 8.

[0128] Preferably, this weight ratio is between 1 and 20, in particular between 5 and 17, or even between 8 and 15.Other ingredients

[0129] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises water or a mixture of water and of one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents chosen from C1-C4alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0130] The composition according to the invention may comprise water, preferably in a total content of between 65% and 98% by weight, preferably between 70% and 95% by weight, preferentially between 75% and 92% by weight and even better still between 80% and 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0131] The pH of the composition according to the invention generally ranges from 3 to 7, preferably from 3.5 to 6 and preferentially from 4 to 5.5.

[0132] The composition may advantageously comprise one or more polyols.

[0133] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyol" means an organic compound constituted of a hydrocarbon chain optionally interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms and bearing at least two free hydroxy groups (-OH), preferably borne by different carbon atoms, it being possible for this compound to be cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated.

[0134] More particularly, the polyol or polyols comprise from 2 to 30 hydroxy groups, better still from 2 to 10 hydroxy groups, preferentially from 2 to 3 hydroxy groups. They preferably comprise from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, particularly from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and better still from 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0135] Advantageously, the polyol or polyols are chosen from diglycerol, glycerol, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, octane-1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sugars such as glucose and mixtures thereof, preferably from glycerol, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof, and even better still from glycerol, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, and mixtures thereof.

[0136] Preferably, the polyol or polyols may be present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 8% by weight, preferentially ranging from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0137] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more compounds which make it possible to adjust its viscosity, among which mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of: thickeners, gelling agents, in particular thickening polymers and gelling polymers; fluidizers; inorganic salts, in particular alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts, preferably in halide form, better still in chloride form, such as sodium chloride.

[0138] The composition according to the invention can additionally comprise at least one or more standard cosmetic ingredients chosen in particular from: sunscreens; moisturizers; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants; chelating agents; reducing agents; oxidation bases, couplers, oxidizing agents, direct dyes; hair-straightening agents; pearlescent agents and opacifiers; micas, nacres, glitter flakes; plasticizers or coalescers; hydroxy acids; pigments; fillers; fragrances; and basifying or acidifying agents. A person skilled in the art will take care to select the ingredients included in the composition, and also the amounts thereof, so that they do not harm the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

[0139] The cosmetic composition according to the invention especially finds a particularly advantageous application in the hair sector, especially for cleansing and / or conditioning the hair.

[0140] The hair compositions are preferably shampoos or conditioners; advantageously; the composition according to the invention is in the form of a shampoo, notably a conditioning shampoo, that can be rinsed off.

[0141] The cosmetic composition may or may not be rinsed off after having been applied to the keratin materials, notably the hair. It is thus optionally possible to perform rinsing, for example with water, after an optional leave-on time. It is preferably rinsed off, after an optional leave-on time.

[0142] Another subject of the invention is a cosmetic treatment process, in particular for cleansing and / or conditioning keratin materials, notably keratin fibers, in particular the hair, comprising a step of applying to said keratin materials a cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0143] A step of rinsing the keratin materials, for example with water, is preferably carried out after the step of applying the composition according to the invention.

[0144] A step of drying the keratin materials can be provided in the process according to the invention, in particular after the rinsing step, notably using a heating means such as a hairdryer.

[0145] Preferably, it is a hair treatment process, in particular for washing and / or conditioning the hair.

[0146] Preferably, the cosmetic treatment process is particularly intended for natural or slightly sensitized hair.

[0147] The present invention is illustrated in greater detail in the examples that follow, in which the amounts are expressed as % by weight of active material (% AM), unless otherwise indicated.Example 1

[0148] Composition A according to the invention and comparative compositions B and C below were prepared, said compositions comprising (% by weight of AM):

[0149] AInventionBComparativeCComparativeSodium lauryl sulfate6.76.76.7Cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB)2.661.20.15Coco glucoside (APG)0.261.70.26Cationic guar0.250.250.25NaCl10.70.5Triethyl citrate0.30.30.3Preservatives, chelating agentsqsqsqsWaterqs 100qs 100qs 100CAPB / APG ratio10.20.70.6

[0150] Hair cleansing compositions are obtained which can be applied to wet hair in order to wash it, and then rinsed off. Composition A is transparent.

[0151] (i) Cleanliness evaluation

[0152] Compositions A, B and C above are tested on locks of hair washed beforehand with 1 g / lock of standard shampoo (DOP Chamomile) and dried (locks of 2.7 g, sensitivity SA20) in the manner described below.

[0153] 37 mg of artificial sebum are applied over the length of each of the locks, and spread to obtain a uniform distribution over the entire length. They are left to stand for 1 hour at 25°C.

[0154] The lock is then washed using 1 g of composition to be tested (1 g per lock), in the following manner:

[0155] - the lock is wetted by passing it under water for 5 seconds and some of the water is removed by passing the lock between 2 fingers once;

[0156] - 1 g of composition to be tested is applied along the lock and then massaged for 15 seconds from root to tip without knotting by carrying out 6 passes;

[0157] - it is rinsed with water for 10 seconds by passing the lock between the fingers 15 times and some of the water is removed by passing the lock between 2 fingers twice.

[0158] The sebum application / washing / rinsing steps are repeated 4 more times (corresponding to a total of 5 sebum application / washing / rinsing cycles), waiting 5 minutes between each cycle.

[0159] After the 5thcycle, the locks are dried in an oven.

[0160] The locks thus treated are then evaluated blind by a panel of 5 experts, who give them a score ranging from 0 to 5 (in increments of 0.5).

[0161] The score 0 is assigned to a lock which is visually not at all clean, with a very significant presence of sebum.

[0162] The score of 5 is assigned to a lock which is visually extremely clean, without any presence of sebum.

[0163] The results below are obtained:

[0164] A(invention)B(comparative)C(comparative)Evaluator 13.542Evaluator 24.533.5Evaluator 3342Evaluator 4433Evaluator 542.53Mean3.83.32.7

[0165] It is found that the lock washed with composition A according to the invention leads to hair that is visually cleaner, better stripped of sebum, compared with comparative compositions B and C.

[0166] (ii) Sensory evaluation

[0167] Compositions A, B and C above are applied to locks of hair which have been washed and dried beforehand (locks of 2.7 g, sensitivity SA20), in a proportion of 1.5 g of composition per lock of 2.7 g. The locks are then rinsed and dried.

[0168] A panel of 2 experts evaluates blind the level of coating (the presence of a thicker or thinner deposit on the hair) of each of the locks, on a wet lock before drying, then on a dry lock.

[0169] Each expert gives a score on a scale of 0 to 5, in increments of 0.5. The score 0 corresponds to a very light coating and the score of 5 to a very sizeable coating. The lower the coating level, the cleaner and more natural the feel.

[0170] The evaluation is carried out as follows: the expert takes the lock between their fingers and slides their fingers along the hair from root to tip.

[0171] The results below are obtained:

[0172] ABCCoating – wet hair00.51Coating – dry hair010.5

[0173] It is found that composition A according to the invention provides a much lower level of coating than the comparative compositions, whether on wet hair or on dry hair, which leads to hair that has a cleaner, more natural, looser, less laden feel.Example 2

[0174] The following compositions according to the invention are prepared (% by weight AM):

[0175] DESodium lauryl sulfate6.76.7Cocamidopropyl betaine2.72.7Cocoyl betaine-0.1Coco glucoside0.30.3Cationic guar0.20.3Glycol distearate-0.5Glycerol3.5-Carbomer-0.3NaCl11Triethyl citrate0.40.3PreservativesqsqsWaterqs 100qs 100

[0176] Hair cleansing compositions are obtained which can be applied to wet hair in order to wash it, and then rinsed off.

[0177] Composition D is transparent and composition E is pearlescent.

[0178] The hair has a clean feel, is particularly loose, soft and moisturized. It sends a signal of cleanliness, notably of lasting cleanliness (long-lasting cleanliness).Example 3

[0179] Composition F according to the invention and comparative composition G below were prepared, said compositions comprising (% by weight of AM):

[0180] FInventionGComparativeCationic Guar0.20.2Glycerol3.53.5Citric acid0.270.27Parfum0.80.8Cocamidopropyl betaine2.662.66NaCl0.890.89Triethyl citrate10Sodium lauryl sulfate6.76.67Coco glucoside0.260.26PreservativesqsqsWaterqs 100qs 100Protocol

[0181] Compositions F and G were applied to natural hair locks, previously wetted, at a rate of 0.27g of composition per gram of hair. After generating the foam by standardized kneading of the locks between the fingers, the locks were rinsed, wrung out, and blow-dried before being evaluated.Results: detangling and coating on dry air

[0182] The performance in terms of detangling and coating was evaluated blindly by 3 experts trained in the evaluation of hair care products.

[0183] Each of the 3 experts assigned a score between -3 and +3 to each of the hair locks, representing the difference compared to the reference (composition according to the invention F) according to the following scale:

[0184] [-3]: if the lock exhibits performance inferior to the reference (less detangling, a feeling of excessive coating, heaviness)

[0185] [0]: no difference compared to the reference

[0186] [+3]: if the tested lock exhibits performance superior to the reference (more detangling, a lighter feel, less coating, less heaviness)

[0187] Gestures

[0188] To evaluate detangling, the expert runs a comb through the hair from root to tip.

[0189] To evaluate coating, the expert grasps the lock of hair between the thumb and index finger, starting at the root and sliding down to the tips. The more coated or heavy the feel, the more weighted down the hair is, and the less light and natural it feels.

[0190] The obtained results are summarized in the table below:

[0191] Ease of DetanglingCoating F(invention)G(comparative)F(invention)G(comparative)Expert 10-201.5Expert 20-202Expert 30000.5Mean0-1.3301.33Standard deviation01.1500.76

[0192] The experts judged that the composition according to the invention (F) provides the hair with better detangling on dry hair and a less coated (heavy) feel than the comparative composition (G).

Claims

A cosmetic composition, preferably a hair composition, which is silicone free, comprising:- one or more sulfate anionic surfactants,- one or more amphoteric surfactants,- one or more nonionic surfactants of alkyl (poly)glycoside type, and- one or more cationic galactomannans,- one or more esters of polycarboxylic acid,the weight ratio of, on the one hand, the total amount of amphoteric surfactant(s) to, on the other hand, the total amount of alkyl (poly)glycoside(s) being greater than or equal to 1.The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the sulfate anionic surfactant or surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:- alkyl sulfates, notably C6-C30, better still C8-C24, even better still C10-C20, or even C10-C16 alkyl sulfates, and also the salts thereof;- C6-C30, better still C8-C24, even better still C10-C20, or even C10-C16 alkyl ether sulfates, preferably comprising 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units, and also the salts thereof;said salts being in particular chosen from alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts,advantageously, alone or as a mixture, from alkyl sulfates, notably C6-C30, better still C8-C24, even better still C10-C20, or even C10-C16 alkyl sulfates, and also the salts thereof, notably chosen from alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts, even better still from alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts of alkyl sulfates, notably C6-C30, better still C8-C24, even better still C10-C20, or even C10-C16 alkyl sulfates, advantageously C10-C20, or even C10-C16 alkyl sulfates, and notably alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts of lauryl sulfate, such as sodium lauryl sulfate.The composition as claimed in either of the preceding claims, wherein the total content of sulfate anionic surfactants ranges from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 18% by weight, preferentially from 3% to 15% by weight, better still from 4% to 12% by weight, even better still from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims, wherein the amphoteric surfactant or surfactants are chosen from:(i) the compounds of the following respective formulae (1) to (3):Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO-, M+, X-(1)wherein:- Rarepresents a C10to C30alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut kernel oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;- Rbrepresents a β-hydroxyethyl group; and- Rcrepresents a carboxymethyl group;- M+represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; and- X-represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4)alkyl- or (C1-C4)alkylaryl sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; or alternatively M+and X-are absent;Ra’-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B’) (2)wherein:- B represents the group -CH2CH2OX’;- B’ represents the group -(CH2)zY’, with z = 1 or 2;- X’ represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ’, -CH2CH2COOH or CH2CH2-COOZ’, or a hydrogen atom;- Y’ represents the group -COOH, -COOZ’ or -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z’;- Z’ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;- Ra’represents a C10to C30alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra’-COOH which is preferably present in hydrolyzed linseed oil or coconut kernel oil, an alkyl group, notably a C17alkyl group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C17group;Ra’’-NHCH(Y’’)-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)n’-N(Rd)(Re) (3)wherein:- Y’’ represents the group -COOH, -COOZ’’ or -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z’’;- Rdand Re, independently of each other, represent a C1to C4alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical;- Z’’ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;- Ra’’represents a C10to C30alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra’’-COOH which is preferably present in hydrolyzed linseed oil or coconut kernel oil;- n and n’ denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3;(ii) (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, (C8-C20)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines and (C8-C20)alkylamido(C6-C8)alkylsulfobetaines,preferably, alone or as a mixture, from (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines, the compounds of formula (1) above and the compounds of formula (2) above,better still, alone or as a mixture, from (C8-C20)alkylbetaines such as cocobetaine, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims, wherein the total content of the amphoteric surfactant or surfactants ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight and better still from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims, wherein the cationic galactomannan or galactomannans are chosen from cationic guar gums, preferably comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, notably C1-4 alkyl, for example methyl, ammonium groups, and notably, alone or as a mixture, from:- hydroxypropyl derivatives of quaternary ammonium derivatives of hydroxypropyl guar, notably halide salts, in particular chlorides, in particular those having the INCI name: HYDROXYPROPYL GUAR HYDROXYPROPYL TRIMONIUM CHLORIDE;- quaternary ammonium derivatives (implying they are not hydroxypropylated) of hydroxypropyl guar, notably halide salts, in particular chlorides, in particular trimethylammonium (or trimonium) derivatives of hydroxypropyl guar, notably the halide salts thereof, in particular the chlorides, in particular those having the INCI name: GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE.The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims, comprising the cationic galactomannan or galactomannans in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.02% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 2% by weight, or even from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims, wherein the ester or esters of polycarboxylic acid are chosen from esters of citric acid, and preferably is triethyl citrate.The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more nonionic surfactants of alkyl (poly)glycoside type chosen from, alone or as a mixture, (C8-C30)alkyl (poly)glycosides, (C8-C30)alkenyl (poly)glycosides and esters of (C8-C30)alkyl (poly)glycosides, these compounds optionally being oxyalkylenated,preferably one or more nonionic surfactants of alkyl (poly)glycosides type, of formula R1O-(R2O)t-(G)v wherein:- R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical including 6 to 24 carbon atoms, notably 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical, the linear or branched alkyl radical of which includes 6 to 24 carbon atoms, notably 8 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical including from 8 to 18 carbon atoms;- R2 represents an alkylene radical including 2 to 4 carbon atoms;- G represents a sugar unit including 5 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose, fructose or galactose, better still glucose;- t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4, better still from 0 to 3, even better still 0;- v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4, the mean degree of polymerization (v) more particularly being between 1 and 2,better still one or more (C8-C30)alkyl (poly)glucosides which are optionally oxyalkylenated, preferably comprising from 1 to 10 mol of ethylene oxide, and comprising 1 to 15 glucose units.The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims, comprising the nonionic surfactant or surfactants of alkyl (poly)glycoside type in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.08% to 5% by weight, and preferentially from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims, wherein the weight ratio of, on the one hand, the total amount of amphoteric surfactant(s) to, on the other hand, the total amount of alkyl (poly)glycoside(s) is strictly greater than 1, better still greater than or equal to 5, even better still greater than or equal to 8, preferably between 1 and 20, in particular between 5 and 17, or even between 8 and 15.The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims, comprising water, preferably in a total content of between 65% and 98% by weight, preferably between 70% and 95% by weight, preferentially between 75% and 92% by weight, even better still between 80% and 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.A cosmetic treatment process, in particular for cleansing and / or conditioning keratin materials, notably keratin fibers, in particular the hair, comprising a step of applying to said keratin materials a cosmetic composition as defined in one of the preceding claims, preferably followed by a rinsing step.