Composition comprising at least one Anti-dandruff active agent, at least one particular antioxidant, at least 35% by weight of a c1 to c6 monoalcohol, and from 0.3 to 2% by weight of nonionic surfactant(s)
A composition with anti-dandruff agents, antioxidants, and monoalcohols addresses scalp discomfort and maintains cosmetic properties, ensuring a clean, non-sticky feel and rapid drying with improved stability.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- PCT/EP2025/064914
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2024-05-31
- Filing Date
- 2025-05-28
- Publication Date
- 2025-12-04
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair and scalp care products do not adequately address scalp discomfort such as stinging, tautness, itching, and dandruff while maintaining good cosmetic properties and stability over time.
A composition comprising anti-dandruff active agents, antioxidants, C1 to C6 monoalcohols, and nonionic surfactants, which provides rapid drying, clean feel, and stability, while reducing scalp discomfort and enhancing hair individualization.
The composition effectively reduces scalp discomfort and provides a clean, non-sticky feel with rapid drying properties and good stability, maintaining cosmetic benefits for hair and roots.
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Abstract
Description
Composition comprising at least one anti-dandruff active agent, at least one particular antioxidant, at least 35% by weight of a C1 to C6 monoalcohol, and from 0.3 to 2% by weight of nonionic surfactant(s)
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition comprising at least one anti-dandruff active agent, at least one particular antioxidant, at least 35% by weight of a C1to C6monoalcohol, and from 0.3 to 2% by weightof nonionic surfactant(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0002] The invention also relates to a process for cosmetic treatment using this composition and to the use of said composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials.
[0003] The skin, including the scalp, is the primary barrier for protecting the body from the environment. It is accordingly subjected to numerous external attacks that can result in uncomfortable skin reactions or even, in the case of very intense or more serious reactions, to skin irritation and / or inflammation.
[0004] Uncomfortable skin reactions, or alternatively skin irritation and / or inflammation reactions, may be induced in particular by contact with chemical products such as cleansers, permanent waving, hair colourings, or by the action of temperature, climate, ultraviolet radiation or atmospheric pollution.
[0005] Moreover, consumers may experience problems with itching of the scalp, but also stinging, tautness or a sensation of warmth, or even desquamation of the scalp.
[0006] To overcome these drawbacks, hair and scalp care products are commonly employed that provide short-term effects to counteract uncomfortable effects on the scalp, affording instant relief while at the same time providing the hair and roots with satisfactory cosmetic properties, especially a non-sticky feel and good individualization of the hairs.
[0007] However, the existing products on the market are not necessarily entirely satisfactory and still have room for improvement, especially in their cosmetic properties, such as their feel. Moreover, these products do not always show good stability over time, and a deterioration in the condition of said product may be observed.
[0008] There is therefore a real need to provide a composition that makes it possible to reduce or even eliminate the undesirable effects of scalp discomfort, such as stinging, tautness, itching, dandruff and a sensation of warmth, while preserving good cosmetic properties for the hair and the roots, such as a non-sticky feel in line with consumer expectation for this type of product, as well as a clean visual appearance and good individualization (good loosened character), and that also has rapid drying properties after application to the roots and good stability over time.
[0009] It has surprisingly been discovered that a particular cosmetic composition made it possible to achieve the objectives set out above.Disclosure of the invention
[0010] The present invention thus provides a composition comprising:
[0011] a) at least one anti-dandruff active agent;
[0012] b) at least one antioxidant selected from ascorbic acid, salts thereof and derivatives thereof;
[0013] c) at least 35% by weight of a C1to C6monoalcohol; and
[0014] d) from 0.3 to 2% by weightof nonionic surfactant(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0015] The composition according to the invention reduces the undesirable effects of scalp discomfort and gives keratin fibres good cosmetic properties, such as a clean, non-greasy feel, as well as a clean, non-sticky visual appearance.
[0016] The composition also gives hair a loosened character, with individualized hairs.
[0017] The composition according to the invention has rapid drying properties after application and also permits good stability of the active agents in the composition; in particular, the composition according to the invention has good stability over time.
[0018] The present invention also provides a process for cosmetic treatment, preferably of keratin materials, in particular of human keratin materials such as the scalp and hair, comprising the application to said keratin materials of the composition according to the invention.
[0019] The present invention further relates to the use of the composition of the invention for cosmetic treatment, especially of keratin materials, in particular of human keratin materials such as the scalp and hair.
[0020] The term “at least one” means one or more.
[0021] Unless otherwise stated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range, especially in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ...”.
[0022] The invention is not limited to the examples illustrated. The features of the various examples may in particular be combined within variants that are not illustrated.
[0023] For the purposes of the present invention, “hair” is understood as meaning head hair. This term does not correspond to body hair, the eyebrows or the eyelashes.Anti-dandruff active agent
[0024] As stated previously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one anti-dandruff active agent.
[0025] An “anti-dandruff active agent” is understood as meaning any compound that prevents or limits excessive, visible desquamation of the scalp.
[0026] The anti-dandruff active agent(s) may be selected, alone or as mixtures, from the following compounds:
[0027] (A) 1-hydroxy-2-pyridone derivatives:
[0028] The 1-hydroxy-2-pyridone derivatives are preferably selected from compounds of formula (I) or salts thereof: (I)
[0029] in which:
[0030] - R1 denotes a hydrogen atom; a linear or branched alkyl group having from 1 to 17 carbon atoms, especially C6-C12; a cycloalkyl group having 5 to 8 carbon atoms; a cycloalkyl-alkyl group, the cycloalkyl group having 5 to 8 carbon atoms and the alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; an aryl or aralkyl group, the aryl group having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and the alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; an aryl-alkenyl group, the aryl group having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and the alkenyl group having from 2 to 4 carbon atoms; the cycloalkyl and aryl groups as defined above may be substituted with one or more alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms or else one or more alkoxy groups having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
[0031] - R2 denotes a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; an alkenyl group having from 2 to 4 carbon atoms; a halogen atom or a benzyl group;
[0032] - R3 denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a phenyl group; and
[0033] - R4 denotes a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; an alkenyl group having from 2 to 4 carbon atoms; a methoxymethyl group; a halogen atom or a benzyl group.
[0034] Preferably, R2 = R4 = H.
[0035] Preferably, R3 = methyl.
[0036] Preferably, R1 is a branched C6-C12alkyl radical.
[0037] Preference among these compounds is given to 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4-trimethylpentyl)-2-(1H)-pyridone and 6-cyclohexyl-1-hydroxy-4-methyl-2-(1H)-pyridone.
[0038] Employable salts include the salts of lower (C1-C4) alkanolamines, such as ethanolamine and diethanolamine, amine or alkylamine salts, and also salts with inorganic cations, such as ammonium salts and the salts of alkali metals or alkaline earth metals.
[0039] Most particular preference is given to the monoethanolamine salt of 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4-trimethylpentyl)-2(1H)-pyridinone (more commonly known as piroctone olamine or octopirox).
[0040] (B) Ellagic acid and derivatives thereof:
[0041] Ellagic acid, or 2,3,7,8-tetrahydroxy-(1)-benzopyrano(5,4,3-cde)(1) benzopyran-5,10-dione, is a well-known molecule present in the plant kingdom. Reference may be made to the Merck Index, 20th edition (1996), No. 3588.
[0042] Ellagic acid has the following chemical formula:
[0043] which comprises four fused rings.
[0044] The ether(s) of ellagic acid that are employable according to the invention are preferably selected from the mono-, di-, tri- or polyethers obtained by etherification of one or more hydroxyl groups (one of the four OH groups of ellagic acid) of ellagic acid to one or more OR groups, R being selected from C2-C20alkyl groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, and in particular polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene groups, and groups derived from one or more mono- or polysaccharides, such as the group having the following formula:
[0045] In the case of the di-, tri- or polyethers of ellagic acid, the groups R as defined above may be identical or different.
[0046] Preferably, these ellagic acid ethers are selected from 3,4-di-O-methylellagic acid, 3,3'-4-tri-O-methylellagic acid and 3,3'-di-O-methylellagic acid.
[0047] The salt(s) of ellagic acid and / or the ethers thereof that are employable according to the invention are preferably selected from the alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, such as the sodium, potassium, calcium and magnesium salt, the ammonium salt and the salts of amines such as the triethanolamine, monoethanolamine, arginine and lysine salts. Preferably, the salt(s) of ellagic acid and / or the ethers thereof that are employable according to the invention are selected from the salts of alkali metals or alkaline earth metals, especially the sodium, potassium, calcium or magnesium salts.
[0048] (C) Pyrithione and derivatives thereof:
[0049] Pyrithione is the compound 1-hydroxy-2(1H)-pyridinethione or 2-pyridinethiol 1-oxide.
[0050] The pyrithione salts that may be used in the context of the invention are especially monovalent metal salts and divalent metal salts such as the sodium, calcium, magnesium, barium, strontium, zinc, cadmium, tin and zirconium salts. The divalent metal salts and in particular the zinc salt (zinc pyrithione) are particularly preferred.
[0051] (D) Selenium (poly)sulfides, which include selenium disulfide and selenium polysulfides of formula SexSyin which x and y are numbers between 1 and 7 and such that x + y = 8. Selenium disulfide comes in the form of a powder, the particles of which generally have a particle size of less than 200 µm, preferably less than 25 µm.
[0052] (E) β-Hydroxy acids:
[0053] A “β-hydroxy acid” is understood as meaning, in accordance with the present invention, a carboxylic acid having a hydroxyl functional group and a carboxyl functional group separated by two carbon atoms.
[0054] Suitable β-hydroxy acids include salicylic acid, β-hydroxypropionic acid, β-hydroxybutyric acid, β-hydroxy-β-methylbutyric acid, carnitine, derivatives thereof and combinations thereof.
[0055] Preferably, the β-hydroxy acid is selected from salicylic acid and derivatives thereof of formula (II): (II)
[0056] in which R is a linear, branched or cyclic saturated aliphatic group or an unsaturated aliphatic group containing one or more double bonds, which may or may not be conjugated, said groups containing from 2 to 22, preferably 3 to 11, carbon atoms and may be substituted for example by at least one substituent selected from (a) halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified by an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or (d) a carboxyl function that is free or esterified by a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
[0057] R' is a hydroxyl group or an ester functional group of the following formula:
[0058] in which R1is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.
[0059] Preferred salicylic acid derivatives include 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid (capryloylsalicylic acid), 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid and 4-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid.
[0060] More preferably, the β-hydroxy acid is selected from salicylic acid, 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid and 4-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, and combinations thereof.
[0061] Preferably, the β-hydroxy acid is salicylic acid.
[0062] Preferably, the anti-dandruff active agent is selected from 1-hydroxy-2-pyridone derivatives of formula (I) or salts thereof, and β-hydroxy acids. More preferably, the anti-dandruff active agent is the monoethanolamine salt of 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4-trimethylpentyl)-2(1H)-pyridinone (more commonly known as piroctone olamine or octopirox), salicylic acid or a mixture thereof.
[0063] In a preferred embodiment, the anti-dandruff active agent is piroctone olamine.
[0064] In another preferred embodiment, the anti-dandruff active agent is salicylic acid.
[0065] Preferably, the total content of anti-dandruff active agents a) ranges from 0.05% to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 2.5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.15% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0066] Preferably, the total content of piroctone olamine, if present, ranges from 0.05% to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 2.5%, even more preferably from 0.15% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0067] Preferably, the total content of salicylic acid, if present, ranges from 0.05% to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 2.5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.15% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Antioxidant
[0068] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one particular antioxidant.
[0069] An “antioxidant” is understood for the purposes of the present invention as meaning an agent that slows or prevents the oxidation of other chemical substances coming into contact with it.
[0070] The antioxidant(s) are selected from ascorbic acid, salts thereof and derivatives thereof, in particular esters thereof, in particular ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside.
[0071] “Ascorbic acid derivatives” may be understood for the purposes of the present invention as meaning those obtained by blocking at least one hydroxyl site, especially by esterification or etherification with phosphate, sulfate or alkyl compounds, for example. These may especially be ascorbyl magnesium phosphate, ascorbyl palmitate and ascorbyl glucoside.
[0072] Salts of ascorbic acid may be selected from alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts, preferably alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salts.
[0073] Preferably, the antioxidant(s) are selected from ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof, and more preferably the antioxidant is ascorbyl glucoside.
[0074] The total content of antioxidant(s) b) advantageously ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0075] The total content of ascorbyl glucoside advantageously ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.C1 to C6 monoalcohol
[0076] The composition according to the invention comprises at least c) 35% by weight of a C1to C6monoalcohol.
[0077] A “monoalcohol” is understood for the purposes of the present invention as meaning an alcohol comprising just one hydroxyl (-OH) function.
[0078] Thus, a “C1to C6monoalcohol” is understood for the purposes of the present invention as meaning an alcohol comprising just one hydroxyl (-OH) function and comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
[0079] The monoalcohol(s) is / are advantageously C1to C4monoalcohols, selected in particular from ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol and mixtures thereof; preferably, the monoalcohol(s) is / are C2or C3monoalcohols; more preferably, the monoalcohol is ethanol.
[0080] The total content of C1to C6monoalcohol(s) advantageously ranges from 35% to 60% by weight, preferably from 40% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0081] Preferably, the ethanol content ranges from 35% to 60% by weight, preferably from 40% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Niacinamide
[0082] The composition according to the invention may also comprise niacinamide (3-pyridinecarboxamide).
[0083] Niacinamide is also known as nicotinamide.
[0084] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises niacinamide.
[0085] Preferably, the total content of niacinamide ranges from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.07% to 2.5% by weight, better still from 0.08% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Nonionic surfactants
[0086] The composition according to the invention comprises from 0.3 to 2% by weight of one or more nonionic surfactants relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0087] The nonionic surfactant(s) that may be used in the composition of the present invention are described for example in “Handbook of Surfactants” by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178.
[0088] Examples of nonionic surfactants include the following compounds, alone or as a mixture:
[0089] - oxyalkylenated (C8-C24)alkylphenols;
[0090] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated C8to C40alcohols, preferably including one or two fatty chains;
[0091] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated C8to C30fatty acid amides;
[0092] - esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8to C30acids and polyethylene glycols;
[0093] - esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8to C30acids and sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated;
[0094] - fatty acid esters of sucrose;
[0095] - C8-C30fatty acid esters of sorbitan;
[0096] - oxyethylenated C8-C30fatty acid esters of sorbitan;
[0097] - alkyl(C8-C30) (poly)glucosides and alkenyl(C8-C30) (poly)glucosides, optionally oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 oxyalkylene units) and comprising from 1 to 15 glucose units, alkyl(C8-C30) (poly)glucoside esters;
[0098] -oxyethylenated plant oils, which may be hydrogenated or unhydrogenated;
[0099] - condensates of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide;
[0100] - derivatives of N-(C8-C30)alkylglucamine and N-(C8-C30)acylmethylglucamine;
[0101] - amine oxides.
[0102] The nonionic surfactants may be selected from alcohols, α-diols and (C1-C20)alkylphenols, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated and having at least one fatty chain comprising for example from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, it being possible for the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups to range in particular from 1 to 200 and the number of glycerol groups to range in particular from 1 to 30.
[0103] They also include condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; ethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides containing on average from 1 to 5, and in particular from 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups, ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan having from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, alkyl(C6-C24) polyglycosides, oxyethylenated plant oils, N-(C6-C24alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-C14alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C10-C14acyl)-aminopropylmorpholine oxides.
[0104] They include in particular saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched oxyethylenated C8-C40fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 mol, or even from 3 to 20 mol, of ethylene oxide and containing at least one C8-C20, and especially C10-C18, alkyl chain; especially lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of ethylene oxide (INCI name: Laureth-4).
[0105] The C8-C30, preferably C12-C22, fatty acid esters (especially mono-, di- and triesters) of sorbitan may be selected from the following compounds:
[0106] sorbitan caprylate; sorbitan cocoate; sorbitan isostearate; sorbitan laurate; sorbitan oleate; sorbitan palmitate; sorbitan stearate; sorbitan diisostearate; sorbitan dioleate; sorbitan distearate; sorbitan sesquicaprylate; sorbitan sesquiisostearate; sorbitan sesquioleate; sorbitan sesquistearate; sorbitan triisostearate; sorbitan trioleate; sorbitan tristearate.
[0107] The polyoxyethylenated C8-C30(preferably C12-C18) fatty acid esters (especially mono-, di- and triesters) of sorbitan having in particular from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide may be selected from polyoxyethylenated esters of C12-C18fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, cetylic or stearic acid, and sorbitan having in particular from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, better still from 2 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide, such as:
[0108] - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (4 EO) (Polysorbate-21),
[0109] - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (20 EO) (Polysorbate-20),
[0110] - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monopalmitate (20 EO) (Polysorbate-40),
[0111] - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (20 EO) (Polysorbate-60),
[0112] - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (4 EO) (Polysorbate-61),
[0113] - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (20 EO) (Polysorbate-80),
[0114] - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (5 EO) (Polysorbate-81),
[0115] - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan tristearate (20 EO) (Polysorbate-65),
[0116] - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan trioleate (20 EO) (Polysorbate-85).
[0117] The hydrogenated or unhydrogenated oxyethylenated plant oils may be oils such as sweet almond oil, argan oil, avocado oil, peanut oil, camellia oil, safflower oil, calophyllum oil, rapeseed oil, coconut oil (or coconut kernel oil), coriander oil, pumpkin oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, linseed oil, macadamia oil, corn germ oil, hazelnut oil, walnut oil, vernonia oil, apricot kernel oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, passionflower oil, grapeseed oil, rose oil, castor oil, rye oil, sesame oil, rice bran oil, camelina oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, pracaxi oil, babassu oil, mongongo oil, marula oil, arara oil, shea butter oil, and Brazil nut oil, said oils being oxyethylenated. Hydrogenated plant oils include in particular hydrogenated palm oil and hydrogenated castor oil, said oils being oxyethylenated.
[0118] The number of moles of ethylene oxide in the oxyethylenated plant oils may range from 2 to 200, preferably from 10 to 100, preferably from 20 to 80.
[0119] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises one or more nonionic surfactants.
[0120] More preferably, the nonionic surfactants are selected from oxyethylenated hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylenated esters of C8-C30fatty acids and sorbitan, and mixtures thereof.
[0121] Even more preferably, the nonionic surfactants are selected from PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (4 EO) (Polysorbate-21), or a mixture thereof.Madecassoside
[0122] The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more compounds of formula (III) below:
[0123] in which R1represents H or CH3, R2represents H or CH3, and R3represents CH3, and R1and R2are not both H.
[0124] Preferred compounds of formula (III) are madecassoside (compound of formula (III) where R1 = R3 = CH3and R2 = H) and terminoloside (compound of formula (III) where R1 = H and R2 = R3 = CH3), and also mixtures thereof.
[0125] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, a mixture of madecassoside and terminoloside is used. Preferably, the mixture of madecassoside and terminoloside has a madecassoside content ranging from 30% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture, and more particularly ranging from 45% to 55% by weight and more particularly from 50% by weight.
[0126] The compounds of formula (III) and especially mixtures thereof can in particular be extracted fromCentella asiaticaaccording to the process described in application WO 2004 / 062678.
[0127] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, an extract ofCentella asiaticacomprising the compound of formula (III), or a mixture of compounds of formula (III), is used, and most particularly an extract ofCentella asiaticacomprising more than 95% by weight of madecassoside / terminoloside mixture relative to the weight of the extract.
[0128] An extract ofCentella asiaticacomprising more than 95% by weight of madecassoside / terminoloside mixture (50 / 50% by weight) is in particular sold under the trade name Madecassoside by Bayer. This mixture has the name CTFA Madecassoside.
[0129] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises a compound of formula (III) or a mixture of compounds of formula (III) in a total amount ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.07% to 2.5% by weight, better still from 0.08% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Hyaluronic acid and salts thereof
[0130] The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more polysaccharides selected from hyaluronic acid, salts thereof and mixtures thereof.
[0131] Hyaluronic acid is a non-sulfated linear glycosaminoglycan composed of repeat units of D-glucuronic acid and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine.
[0132] According to the invention, the hyaluronic acid preferably has a number-average molecular weight ranging from 500 Da (i.e. g / mol) to 10 000 000 Da (i.e. g / mol), and more particularly ranging from 2000 Da (i.e. g / mol) to 2 000 000 Da (i.e. g / mol).
[0133] Hyaluronic acids suitable for use in the present invention include in particular crosslinked or non-crosslinked hyaluronic acids of animal or plant origin, such as those sold under the name Hylaform® by Genzyme, or else hyaluronic acids of genetic origin, including those intended for superficial wrinkles, periorbital or perioral wrinkles, such as those sold under the name Restylane Fine Lines® by Q-Med, or for deep wrinkles, lip-chin depressions and facial ovals, such as those sold under the names Perlane® and Restylane Sub-Q® by Q-Med. Hyaluronic acids suitable for use in the present invention include those sold under the name Restylane® by Q-Med and under the name Surgiderm® by Cornéal.
[0134] These also include the low-molecular-weight (50 kDa) hyaluronic acid offered by Evonik under the name Hyacare 50®.
[0135] Hyaluronic acid salts include in particular the sodium salts, potassium salts, zinc salts and silver salts, and mixtures thereof. More particularly, hyaluronic acid salts include potassium hyaluronate and sodium hyaluronate. Thus, the sodium hyaluronate with a molecular weight of 1 100 000 Da (i.e. g / mol) marketed by Soliance under the name Cristalhyal®, and the sodium hyaluronate with a molecular weight of from 20 000 to 50 000 Da (i.e. g / mol) marketed by Soliance under the name Renovhyal® LO, may be considered in the context of the invention.
[0136] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one hyaluronic acid salt as polysaccharide.
[0137] More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least a sodium hyaluronate and / or a potassium hyaluronate as polysaccharide; even more preferably a sodium hyaluronate.
[0138] Preferably, the total content of polysaccharide(s) selected from hyaluronic acid, salts thereof and mixtures thereof in the composition ranges from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.07% to 2.5% by weight, better still from 0.08% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0139] Preferably, the total content of hyaluronic acid salt(s), especially sodium salt(s), in the composition ranges from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.07% to 2.5% by weight, better still from 0.08% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Thickening agents
[0140] The composition according to the invention may additionally comprise one or more thickening agents, which are preferably anionic.
[0141] The thickening agents according to the invention are preferably selected from thickening polymers, more preferably from anionic thickening polymers.
[0142] A thickening polymer is understood for the purposes of the present invention as meaning a polymer that, when introduced at 1% by weight into a pH 7 aqueous solution or aqueous alcohol solution containing 30% ethanol makes it possible to achieve a viscosity of at least 100 cps (centipoise), in particular of at least 200 cps, preferably of at least 500 cps, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s-1. This viscosity may be measured using a cone / plate viscometer (Haake R600 rheometer or the like).
[0143] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression “anionic polymer” refers to any non-silicone polymer containing anionic groups and / or groups ionizable to anionic groups and not containing cationic groups and / or groups ionizable to cationic groups.
[0144] The thickening polymers according to the invention may be of natural or synthetic origin. They may be selected from thickening acrylic polymers and thickening polysaccharides. A mixture of two or more thickening polymers may also be used.
[0145] The anionic thickening polymers are advantageously selected from sulfonic anionic polymers, i.e. anionic polymers comprising in their structure at least one sulfonic group (SO3H or SO3-). These include in particular the crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymers of sodium 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate, such as that used in the commercial product Simulgel™ 800 (INCI name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate (and) Polysorbate 80 (and) Sorbitan Oleate) from Seppic and the crosslinked polymers of ammonium 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate (INCI name: Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate), such as that marketed under the name Hostacerin® AMPS by Clariant.
[0146] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not comprise a thickening agent.
[0147] In another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a thickening agent, which is preferably anionic, preferably selected from anionic sulfonic polymers, better still from crosslinked polymers of ammonium 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate.
[0148] The content of thickening agent(s), if present, ranges preferably from 0.1% to 5%, preferably from 0.3% to 3%, better still from 0.5% to 2%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0149] The composition according to the invention may comprise water, preferably in a content ranging from 20% to 90% by weight, better still from 30% to 70% by weight, even better still from 40% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Additives
[0150] The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more additional compounds different from the compounds described above, selected from reducing agents, softeners, moisturizers, UV screening agents, solubilizers, perfumes, proteins, vitamins, colouring materials, pearlescent agents, opacifiers, film-forming polymers, fixative polymers, solid fatty substances and preservatives.
[0151] A person skilled in the art will take care to select any optional additional compounds and the amount thereof such that they do not adversely affect the properties of the composition of the present invention.
[0152] These additional compounds may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0153] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition, preferably hair composition, comprises:
[0154] (i) at least one anti-dandruff active agent selected from 1-hydroxy-2-pyridone derivatives of formula (I) or salts thereof, β-hydroxy acids, or a mixture thereof, preferably the monoethanolamine salt of 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4-trimethylpentyl)-2(1H)-pyridinone, salicylic acid and mixtures thereof, preferably in a total amount ranging from 0.05% to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 2.5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.15% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;
[0155] (ii) at least one antioxidant selected from ascorbic acid, salts thereof and derivatives thereof, preferably ascorbyl glucoside, preferably in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and
[0156] (iii) at least 35% by weight of a C2or C3monoalcohol, preferably ethanol, preferably in an amount ranging from 35% to 60% by weight, preferably from 40% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention; and
[0157] (v) from 0.3% to 2% by weight of nonionic surfactant(s) relative to the total weight of the composition, wherein the nonionic surfactant(s) is(are) selected from oxyethylenated hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylenated C8-C30fatty acid esters of sorbitan, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylenated (4 EO) sorbitan monolaurate (Polysorbate-21), or a mixture thereof.
[0158] In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition, preferably hair composition, further comprises:
[0159] (v) niacinamide, preferably in a content ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.07% to 2.5% by weight and better still from 0.08% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and / or
[0160] (vi) at least one mixture of madecassoside et de terminoloside, preferably the mixture of the name CTFA Madecassoside, preferably in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.07% to 2.5% by weight, better still from 0.08% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and / or
[0161] (vii) at least one polysaccharide selected from hyaluronic acid, salts thereof and mixtures thereof, preferably sodium hyaluronate, preferably in a content ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.07% to 2.5% by weight, better still from 0.08% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0162] The pH of the composition according to the invention, if aqueous, advantageously varies from 4 to 9, preferably from 5 to 8.5.
[0163] The pH of the composition may be adjusted to the desired value with the aid of alkalinizing agents or acidifying agents in common use. Examples of alkalinizing agents include ammonia, alkanolamines and mineral or organic hydroxides. Examples of acidifying agents include mineral or organic acids, such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid and sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.
[0164] The hair and scalp care compositions according to the invention may be lotions, serums and leave-on haircare products, for example.
[0165] The cosmetic composition may thus be rinsed off or left on after having been applied to the keratin materials, for example rinsed off with water, after an optional leave-on time. The composition is preferably a leave-on composition. The composition may be applied to damp or dry hair, preferably to damp hair.
[0166] The present invention also provides a process for cosmetic treatment, preferably of keratin materials, in particular of human keratin materials such as the scalp and hair, comprising the application to said keratin materials of the composition according to the invention.
[0167] The present invention also provides for the use of the composition of the invention for the cosmetic treatment, especially of keratin materials, in particular of human keratin materials such as the scalp and hair.
[0168] The present invention will now be described more specifically by means of examples, which do not in any way limit the scope of the invention. However, the examples support specific features, variants and preferred embodiments of the invention.
[0169] EXAMPLE1
[0170] Compositions A1, A2 and B as described in Table 1 below were prepared: the amounts are expressed as g of active material (% AM) unless otherwise stated.
[0171] CompositionsA1(invention)A2(invention)B(comparative)Piroctone olamine00.250.25Salicylic acid1.8500Ascorbyl glucoside111PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil0.40.50.5Polysorbate 210.500Madecassoside0.110.110.11Sodium hyaluronate0.110.110.11Niacinamide0.110.110.11Ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate00.80.8Ethanol454530Preservative(s), pH agent(s)qsqsqsWaterqs 100qs 100qs 100
[0172] Thus, compositions A1 and A2 are two compositions according to the invention. They make it possible to significantly reduce the undesirable effects of scalp discomfort while at the same time having satisfactory cosmetic properties. It was observed by the experts that compositions A1 and A2 according to the invention did not leave the locks of hair and / or the roots visually greasy; on the contrary, the hair is clean, without fibres sticking together. In addition, the roots and locks treated with the compositions of the invention have the advantage of drying very rapidly after application. Moreover, the compositions showed good stability properties, in particular after 2 months of storage at ambient temperature or at 45°C.
[0173] Tactile evaluation: sticky feel criterion
[0174] Compositions A2 and B were applied to locks of damp natural hair (2.7 g / 27 cm) at a rate of 0.4 g of composition per lock of hair; the locks were allowed to dry in ambient air for 5 minutes after application of the composition.
[0175] The performance in terms of sticky feel of the locks of hair as prepared previously was evaluated by five experts.
[0176] The evaluation of stickiness is tactile. The expert grasps the lock between the thumb and index finger and grips it between his / her fingers in several places between the upper part and the tips of the hair. He / she evaluates whether the hair is sticky and whether the fingers catch on the hair.
[0177] The overall performance in terms of sticky feel was evaluated in a blind test in which each of the five experts assigned a score ranging from 0 (not sticky) to 5 (very sticky) to each of the locks of hair.
[0178] The results obtained are collated in Table 2 below.
[0179] CompositionA2 (invention)B (comparative)Expert 123Expert 224Expert 313Expert 414Expert 523Mean1.63.4
[0180] It is clear that the locks of hair treated with composition A2 according to the invention have a much less sticky feel compared with the locks of hair treated with the comparative composition B.
[0181] The composition according to the invention thus has a very natural and clean feel.
[0182] On the other hand, it was observed that the hair treated with the comparative composition B had a much more sticky effect.EXAMPLE 2
[0183] Compositions A2, C1 and C2 as described in Table 3 below were prepared: the amounts are expressed as g of active material (% AM) unless otherwise stated.
[0184] CompositionsA2(invention)C1(comparative)C2(comparative)Piroctone olamine0.250.250.25Ascorbyl glucoside111PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil0.50.22.5Madecassoside0.110.110.11Sodium hyaluronate0.110.110.11Niacinamide0.110.110.11Ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate0.80.80.8Ethanol454545Preservative(s), pH agent(s)qsqsqsWaterqs 100qs 100qs 100
[0185] Thus, compositions C1 and C2 are two comparative compositions and composition A2 is a composition according to the invention.
[0186] Evaluation of the drying time
[0187] Compositions A2, C1 and C2 were applied to locks of damp natural hair (2.7 g / 27 cm) at a rate of 0.4 g of composition per lock of hair; the locks were allowed to dry in ambient air. After 5 minutes, the drying rate of the locks was evaluated by three experts. The evaluation of the rate of dryness is tactile. The expert grasps the lock between the thumb and index finger and grips it between his / her fingers in several places between the upper part and the tips of the hair. He / she evaluates whether the hair is humid. For all the three experts, the locks treated with composition A1 were drier than the locks treated with composition C1 and C2.
[0188] In conclusion, the roots and locks treated with the composition of the invention have the advantage of drying more rapidly after application than the roots and locks treated with the comparative compositions C1 and C2.
[0189] Evaluation of the visual appearance
[0190] The evaluation of the visual appearance of the locks treated with compositions A2, C1 and C2 was evaluated by three experts. The assessment was made on dry locks prepared further to the protocol described previously. It was observed by all the experts that composition A2 according to the invention did not leave the locks of hair and / or the roots visually greasy; the hair look clean. On the contrary, locks treated with composition C2 exhibit fibres sticking together and locks treated with composition C1 present a powdered effect.
Claims
1.Composition comprising:a) at least one anti-dandruff active agent;b) at least one antioxidant selected from ascorbic acid, salts thereof and derivatives thereof;c) at least 35% by weight of a C1to C6monoalcohol; andd) from 0.3 to 2% by weight of nonionic surfactant(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.2.Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the anti-dandruff active agent a) is selected from 1-hydroxy-2-pyridone derivatives and salts thereof, ellagic acid and derivatives thereof, pyrithione and derivatives thereof, and β-hydroxy acids, and also mixtures thereof, preferably 1-hydroxy-2-pyridone derivatives, salts thereof, and β-hydroxy acids, even more preferably from the monoethanolamine salt of 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4-trimethylpentyl)-2(1H)-pyridinone, salicylic acid and a mixture thereof.3.Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the total content of anti-dandruff active agent(s) a) ranges from 0.05% to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 2.5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.15% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.4.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the antioxidant b) is selected from ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof, and more preferably the antioxidant b) is ascorbyl glucoside.5.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of antioxidant(s) ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.6.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the monoalcohol(s) is / are C1to C4monoalcohols, preferably C2or C3monoalcohols, more preferably, the monoalcohol is ethanol.7.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of C1to C6monoalcohol(s) ranges from 35% to 60% by weight, preferably from 40% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.8.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises niacinamide, preferably in a content ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.07% to 2.5% by weight, better still from 0.08% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.9.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the nonionic surfactant(s) is(are) selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched oxyethylenated C8-C40fatty alcohols preferably comprising from 3 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide and containing at least one C8-C20alkyl chain; polyoxyethylenated C8-C30fatty acid esters of sorbitan having in particular from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; hydrogenated or unhydrogenated oxyethylenated plant oils, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from polyoxyethylenated C8-C30fatty acid esters of sorbitan having in particular from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; hydrogenated or unhydrogenated oxyethylenated plant oils, and mixtures thereof, even more preferably PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (4 EO) (Polysorbate-21), or a mixture thereof.10.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one compound of formula (III): in which R1represents H or CH3, R2represents H or CH3, and R3represents CH3, and R1and R2are not both H,or a mixture of a compounds of formula (III), preferably in a total amount ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.07% to 2.5% by weight, better still from 0.08% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.11.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises one or more polysaccharides selected from hyaluronic acid, salts thereof and mixtures thereof, more preferably a hyaluronic acid salt, better still sodium hyaluronate, preferably in a content ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.07% to 2.5% by weight, better still from 0.08% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.12.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises one or more thickening agents, which are preferably anionic, preferably selected from thickening polymers, more preferably from anionic sulfonic polymers, better still from crosslinked polymers of ammonium 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate.13.Composition according to Claim 12, characterized in that the total content of thickening agent(s) ranges from 0.1% to 5%, preferably from 0.3% to 3%, better still from 0.5% to 2%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Citation Information
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