Water-based cosmetic
The aqueous cosmetic preparation with tocopheryl phosphate, alanyl glutamine, and sclerotium gum addresses poor penetration and stickiness issues, offering a smooth and firm skin feel.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- PCT/JP2025/013703
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2024-06-13
- Filing Date
- 2025-04-04
- Publication Date
- 2025-12-18
AI Technical Summary
Tocopheryl phosphate-based cosmetic preparations suffer from poor penetration, squeaky feeling, and stickiness, leading to a poor user experience.
An aqueous cosmetic preparation comprising tocopheryl phosphate, alanyl glutamine and/or hydroxyproline, and sclerotium gum, with specific mass ratios to enhance penetration and eliminate squeakiness and stickiness.
The formulation provides excellent penetration, no squeakiness or stickiness, and a firm feeling that lasts for several hours, improving user experience.
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Abstract
Description
Water-based cosmetics
[0001] The present invention relates to an aqueous cosmetic preparation.
[0002] Tocopheryl phosphate has been reported to have effects such as improving and preventing rough skin, anti-wrinkle effects, and anti-acne bacteria effects, and is widely used in topical skin preparations. Patent Document 1 proposes an oil-in-water emulsion composition containing ceramides stably, the composition containing (a) ceramide, (b) α-tocopheryl phosphate and / or its salt, and (c) batyl alcohol. Patent Document 2 proposes a less sticky oil-in-water emulsion composition containing tocopheryl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside. Patent Document 3 proposes a stable tocopheryl phosphate-containing emulsion composition without the addition of a surfactant, the emulsion composition containing a salt of tocopheryl phosphate (A), either polyoxyalkylene glycerin (B) or cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid polyoxyethylene alkyl ether (C), and a polyhydric alcohol (D).
[0003] Patent Document 4 proposes a cosmetic preparation containing a high content of glycerin, which contains (A) a tocopheryl phosphate salt, (B) a higher alcohol, and (C) water. Patent Document 5 proposes a cosmetic preparation containing (A) a tocopheryl phosphate salt, (B) non-hydrogenated lecithin, (C) a polyhydric alcohol, (D) an oil, and (E) water, which has excellent storage stability, blends well with the skin, provides a moist feel when used, and has high moisturizing properties. Patent Document 6 proposes a transparent cosmetic preparation containing (A) ubiquinone, (B) a tocopherol derivative, and (C) a polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester, which contains poorly water-soluble ubiquinone but has excellent ubiquinone stability, is free from a squeaky feeling, and provides a fresh feel when used. Patent Document 7 proposes a cosmetic preparation containing 1 to 3% by mass of tocopheryl phosphate-equivalent to tocopheryl phosphate and / or a salt thereof, 0.5 to 2% by mass of arginine, and water, and which has excellent stability.
[0004] JP 2011-016761 A JP 2011-140451 A JP 2012-206956 A JP 2013-091619 A JP 2015-151359 A JP 2016-130220 A JP 2016-172698 A
[0005] However, tocopheryl phosphate has problems such as poor penetration upon application, a squeaky feeling, and stickiness, resulting in a poor feel when used. An object of the present invention is to provide a novel aqueous cosmetic preparation that contains tocopheryl phosphate but has excellent penetration and a good feel when used, without any squeaky feeling or stickiness.
[0006] The means for solving the problems of the present invention are as follows: 1. An aqueous cosmetic preparation comprising the following components (A) to (C): (A) tocopheryl phosphate (B) alanyl glutamine and / or hydroxyproline (C) sclerotium gum 2. The aqueous cosmetic preparation according to 1., wherein the mass ratio (A / B) of component (A) to component (B) is 0.1 or more and 3.3 or less. 3. The aqueous cosmetic preparation according to 1. or 2., wherein the mass ratio (C / B) of component (C) to component (B) is 0.01 or more and 5.0 or less.
[0007] The aqueous cosmetic preparation of the present invention has an excellent penetration feeling upon application, is free from squeaking and stickiness, and has an excellent feel upon use. Furthermore, unexpectedly, the aqueous cosmetic preparation of the present invention provides a feeling of firmness after application, and the firmness can last for about half a day to a day.
[0008] The aqueous cosmetic preparation of the present invention contains the following components (A) to (C): (A) tocopheryl phosphate, (B) alanyl glutamine and / or hydroxyproline, and (C) sclerotium gum.
[0009] Component (A): Tocopheryl phosphate Tocopheryl phosphate is a derivative of chemically unstable vitamin E (tocopherol) and is converted to vitamin E by a dephosphorylating enzyme in the skin. Vitamin E is a useful fat-soluble vitamin that works in conjunction with water-soluble antioxidant compounds such as vitamin C to protect the skin from oxidative stress induced by ultraviolet rays and the like. The type of tocopheryl phosphate salt used in the present invention is not particularly limited, but metal salts such as sodium salt, disodium salt, potassium salt, and dipotassium salt are preferred, and sodium tocopheryl phosphate is more preferred. Commercially available tocopheryl phosphate can also be used, and an example of such a tocopheryl phosphate is "sodium vitamin E phosphate" manufactured by Showa Denko K.K.
[0010] Component (B): Alanylglutamine and / or Hydroxyproline The aqueous cosmetic preparation of the present invention contains either alanylglutamine or hydroxyproline, or both, as component (B). Alanylglutamine is a dipeptide in which the carboxyl group of alanine and the amino group of glutamine are peptide-bonded. Hydroxyproline is a secondary cyclic amino acid (monopeptide), also known as imino acid. These can also be commercially available products, such as those available from Kyowa Hakko Bio Co., Ltd.
[0011] Component (C): Sclerotium gum Sclerotium gum is a polysaccharide gum produced by the fungus Sclerotium rolfsii using glucose as a substrate, and has a three-dimensional cross-linked triple helix structure. Commercially available sclerotium gum can also be used, for example, commercially available from Alban Muller International (France) under the trade name Amigel.
[0012] In terms of penetration feel and feel during use, the aqueous cosmetic preparation of the present invention preferably has a mass ratio (A / B) of component (A) to component (B) of 0.1 or more and 3.3 or less. In the cosmetic preparation of the present invention, the mass ratio (A / B) of component (A) to component (B) is more preferably 0.2 or more, even more preferably 0.3 or more, even more preferably 0.4 or more, and more preferably 3.0 or less, even more preferably 2.7 or less, and even more preferably 2.4 or less.
[0013] In terms of firmness and feel during use, the aqueous cosmetic preparation of the present invention preferably has a mass ratio (C / B) of component (C) to component (B) of 0.01 or more and 5.0 or less. In the cosmetic preparation of the present invention, the mass ratio (C / B) of component (C) to component (B) is more preferably 0.05 or more, even more preferably 0.1 or more, and more preferably 4.5 or less, even more preferably 4.0 or less.
[0014] In the aqueous cosmetic preparation of the present invention, the blending amount of component (A) relative to the total cosmetic preparation is preferably 0.001% by mass or more and 5% by mass or less, more preferably 0.005% by mass or more, even more preferably 0.01% by mass or more, more preferably 4% by mass or less, and even more preferably 3% by mass or less. In the aqueous cosmetic preparation of the present invention, the blending amount of component (B) relative to the total cosmetic preparation is preferably 0.001% by mass or more and 5% by mass or less, more preferably 0.005% by mass or more, even more preferably 0.01% by mass or more, more preferably 4% by mass or less, and even more preferably 3% by mass or less. In the aqueous cosmetic preparation of the present invention, the blending amount of component (C) relative to the total cosmetic preparation is preferably 0.01% by mass or more and 0.5% by mass or less, more preferably 0.02% by mass or more, even more preferably 0.025% by mass or more, more preferably 0.4% by mass or less, and even more preferably 0.3% by mass or less.
[0015] In addition to components (A) to (C), the aqueous cosmetic preparation of the present invention may contain components typically used in cosmetics, such as polyhydric alcohols, sugars, sugar alcohols, pigments, inorganic powders, organic powders, thickeners, preservatives, sequestering agents, plant extracts, pH adjusters, salts, colorants, and fragrances. It may also contain other medicinal ingredients and physiologically active ingredients. However, the aqueous cosmetic preparation of the present invention preferably contains oil in an amount of 10% by mass or less, more preferably 5.0% by mass or less, even more preferably 3.0% by mass or less, and even more preferably 1.0% by mass or less, based on the total amount of the cosmetic preparation.
[0016] Examples of polyhydric alcohols, sugars, and sugar alcohols include glycerin, diglycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol (BG), propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol (pentylene glycol), glucose, sorbitol, mannose, mannitol, galactose, galactitol, maltose, maltitol, trehalose, erythrose, erythritol, raffinose, isomalt, xylose, xylitol, sucrose, lactose, lactitol, difructose anhydride, methyl gluceth-10, PPG-10 methyl glucose, and glycereth-26. Among these, it is preferable to include one or more selected from glycerin, BG, pentylene glycol, raffinose, trehalose, and isomalt.
[0017] Examples of pigments, inorganic powders, and organic powders include talc, kaolin, silica, mica, zeolite, bentonite, titanium dioxide, iron oxide, crystalline cellulose, nylon powder, poly(meth)acrylic acid ester, and polymethylsilsesquioxane powder. Examples of thickeners include carbomer. Examples of preservatives include methylparaben and ethylparaben. Examples of sequestering agents include disodium ethylenediaminetetraacetate, edetic acid, and edetate salts such as sodium edetate. Examples of medicinal ingredients include vitamin C compounds such as L-ascorbic acid, L-ascorbic acid phosphate, L-ascorbic acid monopalmitate, L-ascorbic acid dipalmitate, and L-ascorbic acid-2-glucoside; whitening agents such as glutathione and saxifrage extract; skin activators such as royal jelly and beech tree extract; blood circulation promoters such as capsaicin, zingerone, cantharides tincture, caffeine, tannic acid, and γ-oryzanol; anti-inflammatory agents such as glycyrrhizinic acid derivatives and azulene; and lysozyme chloride.
[0018] The water usable in the aqueous cosmetic of the present invention can be water usable in cosmetics, topical pharmaceuticals, quasi-drugs, etc., but purified water, distilled water, membrane-filtered water, and ion-exchanged water are preferred, and one or more of these can also be used in combination. The amount of water can be set appropriately, but can be 50% by mass or more, preferably 70% by mass or more, and more preferably 80% by mass or more, based on the total cosmetic. The aqueous cosmetic of the present invention is an aqueous cosmetic containing water and water-soluble components as the main components, and also includes oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic. The aqueous cosmetic of the present invention can be in the form of a liquid, emulsion, gel, etc., and can be used as a lotion, emulsion, serum, all-in-one gel, body lotion, etc.
[0019] Aqueous cosmetic preparations were obtained by stirring and mixing the components according to the compositions shown in Tables 1 and 2 (the numerical values for the blending amounts represent mass %). The aqueous cosmetic preparations obtained were evaluated using the following methods. The results are shown in Tables 1 and 2.
[0020] <Evaluation Method> Three expert panelists applied approximately 0.15 g of each aqueous cosmetic obtained by the above method to the inner part of the forearm, and then conducted a sensory evaluation by consensus using the following scoring system to assess the sensation immediately afterwards. The following scores were assigned. The firmness sensation alone was also evaluated in the same manner, immediately afterwards, and six hours later. Penetration sensation is the sensation of the cosmetic being absorbed and seeped into the skin when applied. After a certain amount of time has passed since application, there is no sense of residual liquid, and this sensation is the opposite of the sensation of the cosmetic being repelled. 〇: Very strong penetration sensation. △: Some penetration sensation. ×: No penetration sensation. ・Lack of squeaking sensation Squeaking sensation refers to the physical discomfort of the application site, such as excessive friction after application of the cosmetic to the skin. This sensation can also be felt when the surface of the application site is covered with a film, has many irregularities, loses smoothness, and becomes rough. 〇: No squeaking sensation. △: Almost no squeaking is felt. ×: Squeaking is felt. - Non-stickiness Stickiness refers to the feeling of residual liquid accompanied by viscosity or tackiness that is felt even after a certain amount of time has passed since applying cosmetics to the skin. 〇: No stickiness is felt. △: Almost no stickiness is felt. ×: Stickiness is felt. - Firmness Firmness refers to the feeling that the skin is taut when touched after applying cosmetics to the skin, and elasticity is felt when pressed with a finger. 〇: Very firmness is felt. △: Some firmness is felt. ×: No firmness is felt.
[0021]
[0022]
[0023] The aqueous cosmetics obtained in Examples 1 to 21 of the present invention, despite containing (A) tocopheryl phosphate, exhibited excellent penetration and a superior feel in use, free of any squeaky or sticky sensation. Furthermore, the aqueous cosmetics obtained in Examples 1 to 21 of the present invention exhibited the unexpected effect of providing a firm feeling immediately after application, and maintaining that firm feeling even six hours later. In fact, when the aqueous cosmetics obtained in Examples 1 to 21 were applied to the entire face after an evening bath, the firm feeling remained the same the next morning as before going to bed, and the firm feeling was also maintained throughout the day. In contrast, the aqueous cosmetics obtained in Comparative Examples 1 to 7, which did not contain any of the components (A) to (C) of the present invention, exhibited poor penetration and a strong feeling of at least one of squeaky or sticky sensation due to (A) tocopheryl phosphate, resulting in a poor feel in use.
[0024] Formulation examples are shown below. Formulation Example 1: Beauty Serum (mass %) Sodium tocopheryl phosphate 0.04 Alanyl glutamine 0.04 Sclerotium gum 0.07 Raffinose 3.0 Betaine 1.0 Glycerin 5.0 Butylene glycol 6.0 Pentylene glycol 2.0 Xanthan gum 0.15 Carbomer 0.20 Potassium hydroxide 0.10 Water 82.40
[0025] Formulation Example 2: Beauty serum (mass %) Sodium tocopheryl phosphate 0.04 Hydroxyproline 0.10 Sclerotium gum 0.05 Trehalose 2.0 Betaine 1.0 Glycerin 5.0 Butylene glycol 6.0 Pentylene glycol 2.0 Xanthan gum 0.15 Carbomer 0.10 Potassium hydroxide 0.10 Water 83.46
[0026] Formulation Example 3: Beauty Gel (% by mass) Sodium tocopheryl phosphate 0.20 Alanyl glutamine 0.08 Hydroxyproline 0.02 Sclerotium gum 0.10 Trehalose 2.0 Glycerin 5.0 Butylene glycol 6.0 Pentylene glycol 2.0 Xanthan gum 0.15 (Acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate) crosspolymer 0.20 Squalane 0.60 Potassium hydroxide 0.10 Water 83.55
[0027] Formulation Example 4: All-in-one gel (% by mass) Sodium tocopheryl phosphate 1.0 Alanyl glutamine 1.0 Sclerotium gum 0.10 Trehalose 2.0 Raffinose 1.0 Glycerin 5.0 Butylene glycol 6.0 Pentylene glycol 2.0 Xanthan gum 0.15 (Acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate) crosspolymer 0.30 Carbomer 0.20 Squalane 1.0 Di(phytosteryl / octyldodecyl) lauroyl glutamate 0.50 Potassium hydroxide 0.01 Water 79.74
Claims
1. An aqueous cosmetic preparation characterized by containing the following components (A) to (C): (A) tocopheryl phosphate, (B) alanyl glutamine and / or hydroxyproline, and (C) sclerotium gum.
2. The aqueous cosmetic preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that the mass ratio (A / B) of component (A) to component (B) is 0.1 or more and 3.3 or less.
3. The aqueous cosmetic preparation according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the mass ratio (C / B) of component (C) to component (B) is 0.01 or more and 5.0 or less.
Citation Information
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