Novel Anti-dandruff compositions

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological compositions for combating dandruff, which compositions comprise: water; at least 20% by weight of at least one polyol relative to the total weight of the composition; at least one anionic surfactant selected from among acyl glutamic acids and cosmetically acceptable salts thereof, sodium lauryl sarcosinate, and disodium 5-cocoglucoside citrate, and mixtures thereof; at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from among alkyl glucosides; and at least one anti-dandruff agent which is piroctone olamine, the composition being free of ciclopirox olamine and zinc pyrithione.

Description

[0001] NEW ANTI-DANDRUFF FORMULAS

[0002] The present invention relates to a new cosmetic or dermatological composition for combating dandruff.

[0003] Dandruff affects one in two people in France; its presence is benign, but it gives an unsightly appearance.

[0004] The scalp, like all skin, normally renews itself by shedding superficial epidermal cells. Dandruff consists of skin flakes, but unusually large, thicker, or more numerous than normal skin cells. Dandruff is classified as either dry or oily.

[0005] Dry dandruff is white, flat, and flakes off spontaneously. It is often accompanied by itching and is generally associated with a dry scalp.

[0006] Oily dandruff flakes are smaller, round, yellowish, and greasy. They adhere to the scalp and hair and are often accompanied by itching. Generally, they are a consequence of seborrhea and are frequently associated with an oily scalp and hair.

[0007] There are two types of dandruff, depending on the severity:

[0008] - light dandruff consists of small whitish flakes corresponding to clumps of very volatile dead cells that fall from the scalp;

[0009] - Seborrheic dermatitis involves dandruff associated with inflammation of the scalp, causing redness and itching.

[0010] The scalp's epidermis is covered with a lipid film called sebum, whose role is, among other things, to protect it from drying out. Malassezia is the name of a yeast belonging to the Fungi imperfecti group and is part of the commensal flora of humans. Several species are recognized: M. furfur, M. sympodialis, M. globosa, M. restricta, and M. obtusa. Malassezia yeasts are lipophilic and keratinophilic; they are lipid-dependent. It is established that this fungus is a weak pathogen for humans. M. furfur is present in virtually the entire population. However, it is also established that M. furfur is responsible for dermatoses such as seborrheic dermatitis in approximately 3% of the population. Malassezia thrives in oily environments, such as the scalp, where sebum is secreted in particularly high quantities, thus creating a favorable environment for its growth.

[0011] Not everyone produces the same amount of sebum. Some people produce enough to encourage the overgrowth of Malassezia bacteria and thus the formation of dandruff. Furthermore, the amount of sebum varies over time, particularly depending on hormonal secretions. Finally, other factors can contribute to the appearance of dandruff, such as stress, fatigue, pollution, lack of sunlight, certain illnesses, and some medications, such as neuroleptics.

[0012] Dandruff often appears during adolescence when sebum production begins. Men seem to be more frequently affected than women, probably due to the influence of androgen hormones.

[0013] Anti-dandruff formulations, particularly in the form of shampoos, have been known and commercially available for many years. They generally contain chemical active ingredients such as ketoconazole, zinc pyrithione, octopirox, ciclopirox olamine, salicylic acid, selenium sulfide, and azelaic acid. Some compounds, such as zinc pyrithione, are suspected of causing environmental problems, particularly ecotoxicity. It is therefore important to find new formulations of active ingredients that are more environmentally friendly. Furthermore, speed of action is a major criterion for consumers.

[0014] Furthermore, in recent years, consumers have become increasingly vigilant about the composition of the products they buy. A growing number of ingredients are being questioned, sometimes controversially, fueled by both mainstream and alternative media. It is therefore important to have streamlined formulas with, if possible, a limited number of ingredients; the challenge being to minimize the number of active ingredients in the formula while maintaining maximum effectiveness.

[0015] Therefore, there is still a need for new dermo-cosmetic products to effectively combat dandruff and / or prevent its formation. Document EP 3818972 describes an anti-dandruff shampoo based on piroctone olamine in granule form.

[0016] Surprisingly, the inventors discovered that a composition comprising a specific combination of ingredients, including the anti-dandruff agent Piroctone Olamine and free of zinc pyrithione and ciclopirox olamine, exhibited very promising fungicidal activity against Malassezia after only 5 minutes of application, a significant advantage compared to other anti-dandruff compositions tested. Furthermore, this composition is advantageously stable.

[0017] According to a first aspect, the present invention proposes a cosmetic or dermatological composition, particularly suitable for topical application, especially on the skin (scalp) and hair. This composition comprises:

[0018] - at least 35% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0019] - at least 20% by weight of at least one polyol, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0020] - at least one anionic surfactant selected from acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable salts, sodium lauryl sarcosinate and disodium cocoglucoside citrate, and mixtures thereof; and

[0021] - at least one non-ionic surfactant chosen from among the alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical preferentially comprises 8 to 16 carbon atoms;

[0022] - at least one anti-dandruff agent which is piroctone olamine, the cosmetic or dermatological composition being free of ciclopiroxolamine and zinc pyrithione.

[0023] Definitions

[0024] In this description, "approximately" means that the value in question may be 10% lower or higher, in particular 5%, and especially 1% higher than the stated value.

[0025] For the purposes of this invention, "topical application" means application to the skin, hair (including the scalp), and mucous membranes, preferably the scalp. For the purposes of this invention, "cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable" means something useful in the preparation of a cosmetic or dermatological composition that is generally safe, non-toxic, and neither biologically nor otherwise undesirable, and that is acceptable for cosmetic or dermatological use, particularly by topical application to the skin.

[0026] In this description, "seborrheic dermatitis" refers to an inflammatory skin condition that presents as red patches covered with greasy, yellowish scales, which are more or less itchy, and predominantly occur in areas rich in sebaceous glands.

[0027] By "at least one" is meant, in this description, a single compound or a mixture of several such compounds.

[0028] According to the present invention, "free of" an ingredient means that the composition contains less than 0.01% by weight, preferably less than 0.001% by weight, of that ingredient, relative to the total weight of the composition, or, even more preferably, that it does not contain that ingredient.

[0029] According to particular embodiments of the present invention, the cosmetic or dermatological composition comprises at least 35% water by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least 40% water by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Even more preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least 45% water by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to particular embodiments of the present invention, the cosmetic or dermatological composition comprises less than 70% water by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 65% water by weight, and more preferably less than 60% water by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0030] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises 35 to 70% by weight of water, preferably 40 to 70% by weight of water, even more preferably 45 to 70% by weight of water, or even 45 to 69% by weight of water, or 35 to 65% by weight of water, or 35 to 60% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0031] According to particular embodiments of the present invention, the cosmetic or dermatological composition comprises at least 20% by weight of at least one polyol relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0032] According to the present invention, "polyol" (also called polyalcohol) means a compound comprising a hydrocarbon chain with at least two carbon atoms and comprising at least two hydroxyl groups.

[0033] The polyol(s) used according to the invention may be natural or synthetic. They may have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.

[0034] The polyol(s) used according to the invention can in particular be chosen from glycerin and its derivatives, and glycols and their derivatives. In particular, they can be chosen from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, octane 1,2-diol, polyethylene glycols, notably having 5 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, but also erythritol, threitol, arabitol, xylitol, ribitol, mannitol, sorbitol, galactitol, fucitol, iditol, inositol, volemitol, isomalt, maltitol, lactitol, maltotriitol, maltotetrol, polyglycitol, and mixtures thereof.

[0035] Preferably, at least one polyol, and preferably the only polyol, implemented according to the present invention is glycerin.

[0036] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises, as a polyol, glycerin which represents at least 75% by weight, preferably at least 80% by weight, and even more preferably at least 85% by weight, and even more preferably at least 90% by weight, of the total weight of the polyols in the composition according to the invention.

[0037] Preferably, the cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention comprises at least 25% by weight of at least one polyol, and even more preferably at least 30% by weight of at least one polyol, for example between 25 and 35% by weight of at least one polyol, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0038] According to the present invention, the anionic surfactant(s) is / are chosen from among acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable salts, sodium lauryl sarcosinate, disodium cocoglucoside citrate and mixtures thereof.

[0039] The acylglutamic acids are preferably selected from those whose acyl group comprises a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain of 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 20 carbon atoms, and most preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The acyl group may, in particular, be selected from lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, olivoyl, cocoyl, and oleoyl groups. The cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable salt of the acylglutamic acid may be selected from alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts, and ammonium salts. For example, it may be selected from sodium, potassium, lithium, or magnesium salts, with sodium and potassium salts being particularly preferred for the purposes of this invention.

[0040] According to particular embodiments of the present invention, the anionic surfactant(s) selected from among acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable salts may, for example, be chosen from the group consisting of compounds with the INCI names: sodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, and sodium stearoyl glutamate. Several anionic surfactants selected from among acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable salts may be used in the composition according to the invention, which may, for example, contain any mixture of two or more of the compounds listed above.

[0041] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a single anionic surfactant selected from acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable salts. Even more preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a single anionic surfactant, disodium cocoyl glutamate. In advantageous embodiments, the composition according to the invention comprises a single anionic surfactant and a single nonionic surfactant.

[0042] According to particular embodiments of the present invention, the non-ionic surfactant(s) selected from among the alkyl glucosides are preferably chosen from those whose alkyl group comprises 8 to 16 carbon atoms. The alkyl glucosides are preferably chosen from compounds with the INCI names: octyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, and decyl glucoside.

[0043] According to particular embodiments of the present invention, the cosmetic or dermatological composition preferably comprises a single non-ionic surfactant, decyl glucoside.

[0044] According to particular embodiments of the present invention, the cosmetic or dermatological composition preferably comprises a single anionic surfactant, preferably disodium cocoyl glutamate, and a single non-ionic surfactant, preferably decyl glucoside.

[0045] According to particular embodiments of the present invention, the cosmetic or dermatological composition is free of amphoteric surfactant.

[0046] According to particular embodiments of the present invention, the cosmetic or dermatological composition is free of amphoteric surfactant amidopropyl betaines.

[0047] In the present invention, "amidopropyl betaines" means the following compounds: behenamidopropyl betaine, capryl / capramidopropyl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, isostearamidopropyl betaine, lauramidopropyl betaine, myristamidopropyl betaine, stearamidopropyl betaine, undecyleneamidopropyl betaine; as well as amidopropyl betaines derived from: almond, apricot, avocado, babassu, rapeseed, coconut oil, sunflower oil, oat, olive, palm oil, castor oil, soy, shea butter and wheat germ.

[0048] According to embodiments of the present invention, the cosmetic or dermatological composition is free from any surfactant of the isethionic acid or isethionate type, in particular a surfactant selected from acyl isethionic acids or their salts, such as the substance with the INCI name sodium cocoyl isethionate. According to embodiments of the present invention, the cosmetic or dermatological composition is free from any surfactant of the sulfosuccinic acid or sulfosuccinate type, in particular a surfactant selected from alkyl sulfosuccinic acids or their salts, such as the substance with the INCI name lauryl sulfosuccinate.

[0049] According to embodiments of the present invention, the cosmetic or dermatological composition is free of any surfactant comprising at least one sulfate group, i.e. an -O-SO3H or -O-SO2-O- group, such as laureth sulfate or lauryl sulfate.

[0050] In general, the cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention preferably contains the fewest possible surfactants. Thus, in particular embodiments of the invention, the cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention comprises no more than 5 surfactants, preferably no more than 4 surfactants, preferably still no more than 3 surfactants, and preferably 2 surfactants.

[0051] In preferred embodiments of the invention, the total surfactant content is between 3 and 20% by weight, preferably between 5 and 15% by weight, preferably between 6 and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0052] The total content of said at least one anionic surfactant is preferably between 1 and 10% by weight, preferably between 2 and 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0053] The total content of said at least one non-ionic surfactant is preferably between 1 and 10% by weight, preferably between 3 and 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0054] The composition according to the invention may contain one or more gelling agent(s) selected from xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum, succinoglucan gum, gellan gum, diutan gum, acacia gum, Caesalpinia spinosa gum, carob gum, Tamarindus indica seed gum, or mixtures thereof.

[0055] Preferably, the gelling agent, when present, is xanthan gum.

[0056] The total content of gelling agent(s), when present, is preferably between 0.1 and 1% by weight, preferably between 0.2 and 0.8% by weight, preferably again between 0.4 and 0.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0057] In particular embodiments of the present invention, the cosmetic or dermatological composition may contain one or more conditioning agents, in particular selected from guars, polyquaterniums, polyglyceryls, polysaccharides, squalane, etc.

[0058] Preferably, the conditioning agent, when present, is guar.

[0059] According to preferred embodiments of the present invention, the total content of conditioning agent(s) when present is between 0.1 and 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0060] The composition according to the invention is also preferably free of silicone. For the purposes of the present invention, silicone, or polysiloxane, classically means any organosilicon polymer or oligomer with a linear and / or cyclic, branched and / or cross-linked structure, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of functionalized silanes, and consisting essentially of a repetition of principal motifs in which silicon atoms are linked together by oxygen atoms, hydrocarbon radicals, possibly substituted, in particular by hydroxyl groups, being directly linked by a carbon atom to these silicon atoms.

[0061] The composition according to the invention may contain one or more preservatives, or be free of them.

[0062] The composition according to the invention is preferably free of ingredients derived from Polyethylene glycol (PEG), which are derived from petrochemicals.

[0063] The composition according to the invention is also preferably free of phenoxyethanol, which is suspected of being an endocrine disruptor.

[0064] In particular embodiments of the invention, the composition is devoid of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA). Alternatively, it may contain such an acid.

[0065] In certain embodiments of the invention, the composition is free of essential oil. Indeed, most essential oils contain allergens, which can cause skin irritation and intolerance. Dyes with the same characteristics are also preferably avoided for similar reasons.

[0066] An important feature of the invention is that the composition according to the invention is free of zinc pyrithione and ciclopiroxolamine.

[0067] Piroctone olamine is an antifungal substance belonging to the hydroxypyridone family. This compound is frequently used in cosmetic products and in human medicine; for example, piroctone olamine is used at a maximum concentration of 1% (in rinse-off products) or 0.05% to 0.1% (a sufficient concentration in leave-on products). This compound has very low toxicity.

[0068] But piroctone olamine is rarely used as the sole antifungal substance in anti-dandruff compositions; it is found in association with ciclopirox olamine and / or zinc pyrithione, or even selenium and salicylic acid.

[0069] In the present invention, piroctone olamine is preferably the only antifungal agent from the hydroxy-pyridone family in the composition.

[0070] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.01 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 1% by weight, most preferably from 0.1 to 0.8% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.2 to 0.5% by weight of piroctone olamine relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises 0.3% by weight of piroctone olamine relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0071] Advantageously, piroctone olamine is preferably the only anti-dandruff agent in the composition according to the present invention.

[0072] The composition according to the invention may further contain one or more ingredients such as menthyl lactate, menthol to obtain a cooling effect when applied to the scalp.

[0073] In preferred implementation modes, the composition meets one or more, preferably all, of the following characteristics:

[0074] - it comprises at least 45% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0075] - and / or it comprises at least 20% by weight, preferably at least 25% by weight, and for example between 25 and 35% by weight, of at least one polyol selected from glycerin and its derivatives and glycols and their derivatives, relative to the total weight of the composition; for example, it comprises at least 20% by weight, preferably at least 25% by weight, and for example between 25 and 35% by weight, of glycerin, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0076] - and / or it comprises 1 to 10% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant selected from among the cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable acyl glutamic acids and their salts, relative to the total weight of the composition; for example, it comprises 1 to 10% by weight of a salt, such as disodium, of cocoyl glutamate, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0077] - and / or it comprises 1 to 10% by weight of at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from alkyl glucosides whose alkyl radical comprises 8 to 16 carbon atoms, relative to the total weight of the composition; for example, it comprises 1 to 10% by weight of decyl glucoside, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0078] Thus, in particularly preferred embodiments of the invention, the cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention comprises:

[0079] - at least 45% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0080] - at least 20% by weight, preferably at least 25% by weight, and for example between 25 and 35% by weight, of at least one polyol chosen from glycerin and its derivatives and glycols and its derivatives, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0081] - 1 to 10% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant chosen from among the cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable acyl glutamic acids and their salts, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0082] - 1 to 10% by weight of at least one non-ionic surfactant chosen from among the alkyl glucosides whose alkyl radical comprises 8 to 16 carbon atoms, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0083] - at least one anti-dandruff agent which is piroctone olamine, and it is free of ciclopirox olamine and zinc pyrithione.

[0084] The invention preferably relates to compositions, particularly cosmetic or dermatological, presented in a form suitable for topical administration, especially to the hair and / or scalp, preferably clean. The cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention may thus be presented in forms commonly known for topical administration, namely, lotions, shampoos, dry shampoos, conditioners, balms, mousses, gels, dispersions, emulsions, sprays, serums, masks, creams, and patches.

[0085] It is further distinguished between formulated products that can be rinsed and formulated products that do not require rinsing; rinsed products being more particularly suitable in the context of the present invention.

[0086] The absence of controversial agents in the cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention allows for very well-tolerated formulations. To treat an itchy, irritated scalp, it is important to choose hair care products that do not irritate the epidermis. Therefore, silicone-free and sulfate-free formulations better respect the scalp's natural balance.

[0087] The compositions according to the invention are particularly interesting in the prevention and treatment of seborrheic dermatitis and / or for combating dandruff and / or preventing its formation, thanks to their immediate and lasting effectiveness.

[0088] The present invention also relates to the use, preferably topical, of a cosmetic or dermatological composition as defined above for the prevention and / or treatment of seborrheic dermatitis and / or to combat dandruff and / or prevent its formation.

[0089] Another object of the invention is a method for treating and / or preventing seborrheic dermatitis, comprising the administration, in particular by topical application to the scalp, of a composition according to the invention, as described above.

[0090] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment method for combating dandruff and / or preventing its formation, comprising the administration, particularly by topical application to the hair and / or scalp, of a cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention, as defined above. This composition preferably comprises a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable excipient, more particularly acceptable for topical application.

[0091] The present invention also relates to a method for achieving anti-dandruff efficacy on hair or scalp comprising the steps of: (i) wetting the hair with water; (ii) applying an effective amount of an anti-dandruff composition according to the present invention as described above to the hair; (iii) rinsing the anti-dandruff composition from the hair with water; and (iv) optionally repeating steps (ii) and (iii).

[0092] According to another aspect, the invention further relates to a method for achieving anti-seborrheic efficacy on the skin, comprising the steps of: (i) optionally wetting the skin with water; (ii) applying an effective amount of an anti-seborrheic composition according to the present invention as described above; (iii) rinsing the anti-seborrheic composition from the skin with water; (iv) optionally repeating steps (ii) and (iii).

[0093] According to another aspect, the invention relates to the use of piroctone olamine as the sole active anti-dandruff agent for the preparation of a cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention, as described above, particularly suitable for topical administration.

[0094] Thus, according to another aspect, the invention relates in particular to piroctone olamine, for its use as the sole active anti-dandruff agent, for the preparation of a cosmetic or dermatological composition, in particular for topical administration, said composition comprising:

[0095] - at least 35% by weight of water, preferably at least 45% water, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0096] - at least 20% by weight of at least one polyol, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least one polyol chosen from glycerin and its derivatives and glycols and its derivatives;

[0097] - at least one anionic surfactant selected from acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts, sodium lauryl sarcosinate, disodium cocoglucoside citrate, and mixtures thereof, preferably 1 to 10% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant selected from acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable salts, relative to the total weight of the composition; and - at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises 8 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 10% by weight of at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises 8 to 16 carbon atoms, relative to the total weight of the composition; and enabling a 90% reduction in charge after 5 minutes of contact with a Malassezia furfur population.

[0098] This use may correspond, with regard to the characteristics of the composition, to one or more of the above characteristics with reference to the cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention.

[0099] The invention is also expressed in terms of a method for preparing a composition according to the invention, this method comprising the incorporation into said composition of a single anti-dandruff active agent, which is piroctone olamine.

[0100] The invention also relates to the therapeutic or non-therapeutic cosmetic use of piroctone olamine to prevent and / or treat seborrheic dermatitis and / or to combat dandruff and / or prevent its formation, wherein piroctone olamine is contained in a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition according to the invention, piroctone olamine being the sole anti-dandruff active agent. This use may correspond to one or more of the characteristics described above.

[0101] The features and advantages of the invention will become more apparent in the light of the following implementation example, provided for illustrative purposes only and in no way limiting the invention.

[0102] Example 1: Study of a composition according to the invention on its antimicrobial activity against Malassezia furfur

[0103] The aim is to compare the antimicrobial activity of a composition according to the invention to commercially available compositions known as anti-dandruff compositions.

[0104] The strain used is from the CBS-KNAW collection for M. furfur (Accession No.: CBS 1878).

[0105] This strain plays an important role in seborrheic dermatitis.

[0106] Fungicidal activity against Malassezia furfur The strain is incubated for 3 to 4 days at 30-35°C on modified Dixon agar under aerobic conditions.

[0107] Method used: dilution, neutralization and incorporation into agar plates:

[0108] - inoculate 20g of the composition to be tested with 1% inoculum titrated to 10 7 CFU / ml;

[0109] - leave in contact for the indicated time and after homogenization, take 1 g of the composition to be tested and make a 1 / 10 dilution in the neutralizer;

[0110] - perform a second dilution with ème in the neutralizer, the final dilution of the sample is 1 / 100;

[0111] - leave in contact for 30 minutes ± 15 minutes;

[0112] - perform a final dilution with ème in the thinner;

[0113] - incorporate 1 ml of these dilutions into the supercooled agar.

[0114] Contact time: 5 minutes, 15 minutes and 60 minutes.

[0115] Neutralizer: Tryptone soy broth (TSB) + 10% polysorbate 80.

[0116] Diluent: tryptone salt.

[0117] The compositions tested are described below.

[0118] A / Composition A: composition according to the invention:

[0119] Table 1 - Composition A according to the invention

[0120] This composition is stable. No visual disturbances are observed after its preparation.

[0121] B / Composition 1: Anti-dandruff shampoo on the market:

[0122] Water, sodium laureth sulfate, glycol distearate, coco-betaine, glycerin, dimethicone, selenium sulfide, carbomer, Cl 47005 I acid yellow 3, citric acid, menthol, 2-oleamido-1,3-octadecanediol, PPG-5-cethet-20, salycyl acid, sodium benzoate, sodium chloride, sodium hydroxide, tocopheryl acetate, perfume.

[0123] C / Composition 2: Anti-dandruff shampoo on the market:

[0124] Eau, sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium chloride, cocam idopropylbétaine, sodium xylenedulfonate, glycol distearate, sodium citrate, parfum, piroctone olamine, sodium benzoate, dimethiconol, citric acid, sodium salicylate, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, dimethicone, hexyl cinnamal, linalool tetrasodium EDTA, sodium hydroxide, TEA- dodecylbenzenesulfonate, trideceth-10, niacinamide, panthenol, tocopheryl acetate, benzyl alcohol, triethylene glycol, propylene glycol, Cl 42090, Cl 17200.

[0125] D / Composition 3 : Shampoing antipelliculaire sur le marché :

[0126] Water, sodium cocoamphoacetate, lactamide MEA, ceteareth-60 myristyl glycol, disodium cocoyl glutamate, polysorbate-20, decyl glucoside, glycerin, PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate, cocoglucoside, glyceryl oleate, citric acid, piroctone olamine, sodium benzoate, propylene glycol, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, zinc gluconate, hydrogentaed vegetable glycerides citrate, tocopherol, helianthus annuus seed oil, benzyl alcohol, benzyl benzoate.

[0127] Note that this composition 3 is bacteriostatic, meaning that it inhibits the multiplication of bacteria without killing them.

[0128] The results are summarized in Table 2 below.

[0129] Table 2 - Fungicidal activity against Malassezia furfur of the compositions

[0130] Comparative anti-dandruff compositions 1 and 2 induce a marked reduction in the number of microorganisms after 15 and 60 minutes of contact.

[0131] As expected, composition 3, which is bacteriostatic, does not induce a significant decrease in the number of microorganisms, the quantity of these microorganisms remaining stable throughout the study.

[0132] In contrast, the composition according to the invention is the only one that acts effectively after just 5 minutes of contact; indeed, only 10% of microorganisms are still present. The composition according to the invention therefore offers a clear advantage over the other compositions tested.

[0133] It is interesting to note that the comparative compositions contain less polyol than the composition according to the invention, and do not have the same surfactants (presence of amphoteric surfactants for all 3 compositions).

[0134] Thus, the inventors developed an anti-dandruff composition with immediate action using only one anti-dandruff agent and a relatively simple formula.

[0135] Example 2: Stability The stability of composition A according to the invention, described in Example , is compared to that of composition 4 not according to the invention, which differs from it only in the glycerin content, described in Table 3 below. Table 3 - Composition 4 not in accordance with the invention

[0136] While composition A shows no visually observable disturbance, composition 4, which does not conform to the invention, shows, upon visual observation, a disturbance from its manufacture.

[0137] Thus, a polyol content greater than or equal to 20% by weight not only increases the anti-dandruff efficacy of the composition comprising the ingredients recommended by the invention, in the recommended levels, particularly in the very first minutes after application, but it also significantly improves the stability of this composition.

[0138] Example 3: Comparative study of antimicrobial activity against Malassezia furfur

[0139] The antimicrobial activity against Malassezia furfur of comparative compositions not in accordance with the invention is compared to that of composition A in accordance with the invention described in Example 1. For this purpose, these compositions are subjected to the test protocol described in Example 1, with contact times of 5 minutes, 15 minutes, 30 minutes, 60 minutes and 120 minutes.

[0140] These comparative compositions, named composition 5 and composition 6, are described in Table 4. Table 4 - Compositions 5 and 6 not in accordance with the invention

[0141] Composition 5 contains the same anti-dandruff active agent as composition A, but differs primarily in the anionic surfactant and the amount of glycerin. The results of the antimicrobial efficacy test for this composition are shown in Table 5. Table 5 - Fungicidal activity against Malassezia furfur of composition 5 not in accordance with the invention. No fungicidal effect is observed, even though the anti-dandruff active agent is the same and in the same quantity as in composition A.

[0142] Composition 6 contains a higher quantity of anti-dandruff active agents (including piroctone olamine) than composition A, and differs from it primarily in the presence of an anionic surfactant and the absence of glycerin. The results of the antimicrobial efficacy test for this composition are shown in Table 6.

[0143] Table 6 - Fungicidal activity against Malassezia furfur of composition 6 not according to the invention. It is observed that this composition exhibits fungicidal activity. However, on the one hand, this effectiveness is lower than that of composition A according to the invention, and on the other hand, it is not exerted within the first few minutes after application.

[0144] These results clearly demonstrate that only the composition according to the invention acts effectively from the first few minutes. Furthermore, it is advantageously stable, contains a limited quantity of ingredients, these ingredients being non-toxic and non-irritating to the skin, and it is environmentally friendly.

Claims

DEMANDS 1. Cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising: - at least 35% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition; - at least 20% by weight of at least one polyol relative to the total weight of the composition; - at least one anionic surfactant chosen from among acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable salts, sodium lauryl sarcosinate and disodium cocoglucoside citrate, and their mixtures; - at least one non-ionic surfactant chosen from among the alkyl glucosides; - at least one anti-dandruff agent which is piroctone olamine, said composition being devoid of ciclopiroxolamine and zinc pyrithione.

2. Composition according to claim 1 characterized in that at least one anionic surfactant is selected from acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable salts.

3. Composition according to claim 1 characterized in that the anionic surfactant is disodium cocoyl glutamate.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the non-ionic surfactant is decyl glucoside.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the composition is devoid of amphoteric surfactant.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that at least one polyol is glycerin.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one gelling agent selected from xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum, succinoglucan gum, gellan gum, diutan gum, acacia gum, Caesalpinia spinosa gum, carob gum, Tamarindus indica seed gum, or mixtures thereof.

8. Composition according to claim 7, characterized in that the gelling agent is xanthan gum.

9. Composition according to claim 1, comprising: - at least 45% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition; - at least 20% by weight of at least one polyol chosen from glycerin and its derivatives and glycols and their derivatives, in relation to the total weight of the composition; - 1 to 10% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant chosen from among the cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable acyl glutamic acids and their salts, relative to the total weight of the composition; - 1 to 10% by weight of at least one non-ionic surfactant chosen from among the alkyl glucosides whose alkyl radical comprises 8 to 16 carbon atoms, relative to the total weight of the composition; - at least one anti-dandruff agent which is piroctone olamine, said composition being devoid of ciclopiroxolamine and zinc pyrithione.

10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the composition is in a form suitable for topically administration.

11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, for use in preventing and / or treating seborrheic dermatitis and / or combating dandruff and / or preventing its formation.

12. Non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment method for combating dandruff and / or preventing its formation, comprising the administration, in particular by topical application to the hair and / or scalp, of a composition as described in any one of claims 1 to 10.

13. Use of piroctone olamine as the sole anti-dandruff active agent for the preparation of a dermatological composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, in particular suitable for topical administration.

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