Novel cosmetic and / or dermatological ingredient for improving the condition, appearance and / or comfort of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or skin appendages

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological ingredient or a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising the peptide of sequence SEQ ID N ° 1 and / or a derivative thereof and / or a salt thereof, and to the uses thereof for improving the condition and / or appearance and / or comfort of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes and / or healthy skin appendages.

Description

[0001] New cosmetic and / or dermatological ingredient to improve the condition, appearance and / or comfort of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or hair

[0002] Technical Field

[0003] The present invention relates to a new cosmetic and / or dermatological ingredient containing the SEQ ID No. 1 sequence peptide and / or its derivatives and / or its salts, its uses for its cosmetic and / or dermatological properties as well as its applications in cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions.

[0004] Previous technique

[0005] Collagen is a structural component of all organs and tissues in mammals. Synthesized by fibroblasts, this protein, a constituent of the extracellular matrix (ECM), is present in large quantities in vertebrate tissues. It is a large family comprising 29 different types. Among the various types of collagen, type I and type III collagens are found in many human tissues, particularly the skin, more specifically in the dermis. Type I collagen is the predominant collagen in the skin. Type III collagen, also present in the dermis, is found in muscles and blood vessels. Both type I and type III collagens are fibrillar collagens. They are initially synthesized as procollagen, which undergoes extracellular transformation into mature collagen.This collagen then assembles into fibrils, organized into a network, and then stabilized by covalent cross-linking bonds.

[0006] Collagen plays a crucial role in the architecture and biomechanical properties of the skin. It is also involved in regulating its own biosynthesis, as well as that of cofactors involved in its assembly, maturation, and stabilization. Under the influence of aging and / or intrinsic and / or extrinsic factors such as oxidative stress, pollution, UV radiation, an unbalanced diet, hormonal imbalances, and chronic inflammation, collagen fibers are degraded, notably through the activation of metalloproteinases (MMPs). Furthermore, collagen synthesis by skin fibroblasts decreases, and the newly synthesized fibers are of lower quality, less well-organized, and less dense. This alters the architecture of the dermis, and therefore of the skin and mucous membranes.This results in visible effects considered unsightly, including loss of firmness, loss of elasticity, loss of density, thinning of the skin, particularly the dermis, and the appearance of wrinkles. Furthermore, collagen plays a role in anchoring skin appendages (hair, nails, and skin) to the dermis. A healthy dermis also contributes to the structure and function of the hair follicle. Therefore, a decrease in collagen leads to a loss of anchorage for skin appendages, especially hair, and consequently to increased hair loss, as well as a reduction in the growth and quality of keratin fibers, particularly in hair.

[0007] The decrease in the synthesis and / or quality of collagen fibers also leads to a decrease in skin renewal and reconstruction, particularly when the skin has been damaged, for example by aggressive agents, including mechanical trauma, or by diseases such as chickenpox, acne, and / or burns. These so-called scarred areas then display marks often considered unsightly, such as stretched scars, including white, dystrophic, atrophic, and / or keloid scars.

[0008] Collagen is therefore the target of many cosmetic and dermatological ingredients aimed at increasing its synthesis and / or improving the quality of collagen fibers.

[0009] There is a constant need for an active ingredient capable of both repairing damaged collagen and increasing collagen production. There is also a need for a cosmetic active ingredient capable of comprehensively and effectively improving the condition of the skin, mucous membranes, and hair / nails.

[0010] So-called CHP (collagen hybridizing peptide) peptides capable of hybridizing degraded or partially degraded collagen have already been described as a cosmetic active ingredient and are characterized by the repetition of a GPP or GPO motif, O designating hydroxyproline.

[0011] The applicant identified that a specific CHP-type peptide with SEQ ID No. 1 sequence: (GPP)3-GPO-GFOGER-GPO-(GPP)2-GFF, in which O designates hydroxyproline, preferably 4-hydroxyproline (4Hyp), advantageously in the form of the acetylated and amidated derivative with general formula 2: CH3-C(=O)(GPP)3-GPO-GFOGER-GPO-(GPP)2-GFF-NH2, made it possible, surprisingly and particularly unexpectedly, to meet this need, not only by the ability of this peptide to stimulate collagen synthesis but also by its ability to repair damaged collagen and more generally, by its complementary properties allowing to improve overall the condition, appearance and / or comfort of the skin, mucous membranes and / or hair.

[0012] The peptide sequence of the invention contains the SEQ ID No. 6 peptide sequence: GFOGER. This is a collagen sequence motif that recognizes certain transmembrane integrins of the extracellular matrix, such as O2-1 integrins, which are cellular receptors involved in cell adhesion, migration, and signaling. Biomimetic collagen peptides therefore commonly incorporate this motif, particularly for the production of cell culture biomaterials.

[0013] Patent application W02023060218A1 thus described in general terms CHP peptide sequences of general formula: (Gly-XY) a.bin which Gly denotes glycine, X and / or Y denotes proline, modified proline or hydroxyproline and in which a is 3 and b is 20. This patent application explicitly mentions the peptides of sequence SEQ ID No. 7 (GPP)3-GFOGER-(GPP)3 otherwise designated (Gly-Pro-Pro)3 - Gly-Phe -Hyp - Gly-Glu-Arg -(Gly-Pro-Pro)3 and SEQ ID No. 8 (GPP)5-GFOGER-(GPP)5 otherwise designated (Gly-Pro-Pro)s - Gly-Phe -Hyp - Gly-Glu-Arg -(Gly-Pro-Pro)s. However, this patent application does not disclose the specific peptide according to the invention and does not suggest its specific and very complete properties as discovered by the applicant in the context of the present invention and which other peptides explicitly described in the prior art do not have or have at a significantly lesser level, as demonstrated in Example 2.

[0014] Thus, the new peptide according to the invention is particularly distinguished from other CHP peptides described in the prior art by its level of performance on these properties but also by its multiple other complementary properties allowing to completely improve the condition, appearance and / or comfort of the skin, mucous membranes and / or hair.

[0015] The present invention thus relates to a new cosmetic or dermatological ingredient comprising the peptide of sequence SEQ ID No. 1 and / or one of its derivatives and / or one of its salts, advantageously comprising the derivative of the peptide of SEQ ID No. 1 of general formula 2: CH3- C(=O)-(Gly-Pro-Pro)3- Gly-Pro-Hyp- Gly- Phe -Hyp - Gly- Glu- Arg - Gly-Pro-Hyp - (Gly- Pro-Pro)2 -Gly- Phe- Phe-NH2 (2) in which Hyp designates hydroxyproline and preferably (2S,4R)-4-hydroxyproline (4-Hyp).

[0016] Thus, advantageously, the peptide with SEQ ID sequence No. 1 of the cosmetic or dermatological ingredient according to the present description is found in the form of the derivative with general formula (2):

[0017] CH3- C(=O)-(Gly-Pro-Pro)3- Gly-Pro-Hyp- Gly- Phe -Hyp - Gly- Glu- Arg - Gly-Pro-Hyp - (Gly- Pro-Pro)2 -Gly- Phe- Phe-NH2 (2).

[0018] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising the peptide of sequence SEQ ID No. 1 and / or one of its derivatives and / or one of its salts, advantageously the derivative of the peptide of SEQ ID No. 1 of general formula 2:

[0019] CH3-C(=O)-(Gly-Pro-Pro)3-Gly-Pro-Hyp-Gly-Phe-Hyp-Gly-Glu-Arg-Gly-Pro-Hyp-(Gly-Pro-Pro)2-Gly-Phe-Phe-NH2(2), where Hyp denotes hydroxyproline, preferably (2S,4R)-4-hydroxyproline (4-Hyp), said cosmetic or dermatological composition further comprising a suitable cosmetic and / or dermatological vehicle. Thus, advantageously, the peptide of SEQ ID No. 1 of the cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the present invention is in the form of the derivative with general formula 2.

[0020] The present invention also relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of the SEQ ID No. 1 peptide and / or one of its derivatives and / or one of its salts, advantageously the derivative of the SEQ ID No. 1 peptide with general formula 2:

[0021] CH3-C(=O)-(Gly-Pro-Pro)3-Gly-Pro-Hyp-Gly-Phe-Hyp-Gly-Glu-Arg-Gly-Pro-Hyp-(Gly-Pro-Pro)2-Gly-Phe-Phe-NH2 (2), where Hyp designates hydroxyproline, preferably (2S,4R)-4-hydroxyproline (4-Hyp), and / or a cosmetic ingredient comprising it according to the present invention and / or a cosmetic composition comprising it according to the present invention, to improve the condition and / or appearance and / or comfort of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes and / or healthy hair, in particular to prevent and / or reduce the signs of aging of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, and / or to improve the architecture of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, in particular to regenerate healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, and / or to increase the thickness of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, and / or to prevent the thinning of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, in particular to prevent thin healthy skin and / or thin healthy mucous membranes,and / or strengthen the skin and / or mucous membrane barrier, and / or to prevent and / or treat unsightly marks on healthy skin and / or mucous membranes, in particular to prevent and / or treat unsightly non-pathological scars, and / or reduce their visibility, and / or to improve and / or maintain the biomechanical properties of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes, in particular firmness, density, elasticity, suppleness and / or tone, and / or to soothe healthy skin, in particular a healthy scalp, and / or healthy mucous membranes, in particular sensitive skin, in particular a sensitive scalp, and / or sensitive mucous membranes, and / or to improve and / or maintain healthy hair, nails, and / or skin appendages, in particular to improve and / or maintain the growth of hair, in particular keratin fibers, and / or the quality of the keratinous material produced in the hair, in particular keratin fibers, and / or to prevent and / or reduce hair loss,in particular, hair.

[0022] The present invention therefore relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of the SEQ ID No. 1 peptide, and / or one of its derivatives, advantageously the derivative of the SEQ ID No. 1 peptide of general formula 2, and / or one of its salts and / or a cosmetic ingredient comprising it according to the present invention and / or a cosmetic composition comprising it according to the present invention, to prevent and / or reduce the signs of aging of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, and / or to improve the architecture of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, preferably to regenerate healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, and / or to improve and / or maintain the biomechanical properties of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0023] The present invention also relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of SEQ ID No. 1 peptide and / or one of its derivatives, advantageously the derivative of SEQ ID No. 1 peptide of general formula 2, and / or one of its salts, to prevent and / or treat unsightly non-pathological scars of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0024] Furthermore, the present invention also relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of the SEQ ID No. 1 peptide and / or one of its derivatives and / or one of its salts, advantageously the derivative of the SEQ ID No. 1 peptide with general formula 2:

[0025] CH3-C(=O)-(Gly-Pro-Pro)3-Gly-Pro-Hyp-Gly-Phe-Hyp-Gly-Glu-Arg-Gly-Pro-Hyp-(Gly-Pro-Pro)2-Gly-Phe-Phe-NH2(2), where Hyp denotes hydroxyproline, preferably (2S,4R)-4-hydroxyproline (4-Hyp), and / or a cosmetic ingredient comprising it according to the present invention and / or a cosmetic composition comprising it according to the present invention to increase the amount of collagen, in particular type III collagen, notably its synthesis, and / or the quantity and / or quality of collagen fibers and / or decrease the amount of damaged collagen in healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, and / or to increase the proliferation of keratinocytes in healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes and / or the adhesion of keratinocytes to the dermis, and / or to increase the thickness of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, particularly those of the dermis, hypodermis and / or epidermis, and / or to reduce wrinkles,in particular their maximum and average depth, especially under-eye wrinkles, and / or to decrease glycation in healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, and / or to increase the amount of elafin, particularly its expression, in healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, and / or to improve the healthy hypodermis and / or increase and / or prevent the decrease of subcutaneous fat, in particular to increase the expression of the proteins Livel, Proxl, PLN1 and / or FabP4.

[0026] Furthermore, the present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic care and / or treatment method comprising the topical application to at least one area of ​​healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes and / or healthy hair and nails of SEQ ID No. 1 peptide and / or one of its derivatives, advantageously the derivative of SEQ ID No. 1 peptide of general formula 2, and / or one of its salts and / or a cosmetic ingredient comprising it according to the invention and / or a cosmetic composition comprising it according to the invention, to improve the condition and / or appearance and / or comfort of the area of ​​healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes and / or healthy hair and nails. The present invention also relates to SEQ ID No. 1 peptide and / or one of its derivatives, advantageously the derivative of SEQ ID No. 1 peptide of general formula 2, and / or one of its salts, for use by topical application.

[0027] - to repair the skin and / or mucous membranes, in particular to repair wounds and / or other superficial injuries of the skin and / or mucous membranes such as canker sores, and / or to improve healing, in particular for the treatment and / or prevention of scars, especially pathological scars, and / or

[0028] - to prevent and / or treat skin inflammations, particularly of the scalp, and / or mucous membrane inflammations, such as dermatitis and erythema, especially sunburn and / or diaper rash and / or gingivitis, and / or

[0029] - to prevent and / or treat alopecia, and / or

[0030] - to prevent and / or treat elastosis, particularly solar elastosis, and / or

[0031] - to prevent and / or treat acne.

[0032] The peptide according to the invention has the advantage of being a cosmetically acceptable active ingredient that does not irritate the skin and exhibits high chemical stability. It does not cause allergies. This peptide can be produced on an industrial scale.

[0033] The peptide according to the invention is the SEQ ID No. 1 peptide, which comprises 30 amino acids: SEQ ID No. 1: GPP-GPP-GPP-GPO-GFOGER-GPO-GPP-GPP-GFF

[0034] O denoting proline modified in the form of hydroxyproline, preferentially (2S,4R)-4-hydroxyproline (4-Hyp).

[0035] The peptide according to the invention therefore has the general formula 1:

[0036] (Gly-Pro-Pro)3- Gly-Pro-Hyp- Gly- Phe -Hyp - Gly- Glu- Arg - Gly-Pro-Hyp - (Gly-Pro-Pro)? -Gly- Phe-Phe (1)

[0037] This peptide has a molecular weight of 2861 g / mol and a thermal disassembly temperature of 28°C. This thermal disassembly temperature corresponds to the temperature at which this triple-helix-organized peptide becomes unstable and appears as disordered peptide chains and can be measured by circular dichroism, as described in the publication by Ahmad et al, J Nucl Med 2025; Feb 2025.

[0038] The amino acids constituting the peptide according to the invention can be in their L, D, or DL ​​forms. Preferably, they are all in the L configuration. According to one embodiment of the invention, the peptide according to the invention is in the form of one of its derivatives in which the last proline of the GPP motif is modified to the form of hydroxyproline, preferably (2S,4R)-4-hydroxyproline (4-Hyp). Thus, according to this embodiment of the invention, the peptide derivative is:

[0039] SEQ ID No. 2: GPO-GPO-GPO-GPO-GFOGER-GPO-GPO-GPO-GFF

[0040] O denoting proline modified in the form of hydroxyproline, preferably (2S,4R)-4- hydroxyproline(4- Hyp).

[0041] This same peptide can also be written using the general formula 3:

[0042] (Gly-Pro- Hyp)4- Gly- Phe -Hyp - Gly- Glu- Arg -(Gly-Pro- Hyp)3- Gly- Phe- Phe (3)

[0043] Similarly, according to one embodiment of the invention, the peptide according to the invention is in the form of one of its derivatives in which the last hydroxyproline of the GPO motif is modified to the form of proline. Thus, according to this embodiment of the invention, the peptide derivative is:

[0044] SEQ ID No. 3: GPP-GPP-GPP-GPP-GFOGER-GPP-GPP-GPP-GFF

[0045] O denoting proline modified in the form of hydroxyproline, preferably (2S,4R)-4- hydroxyproline(4- Hyp).

[0046] This same peptide can also be written using the general formula 4:

[0047] (Gly-Pro- Pro)4- Gly- Phe -Hyp - Gly- Glu- Arg -(Gly-Pro- Pro)3- Gly- Phe- Phe (4)

[0048] Similarly, according to another embodiment of the invention, the peptide according to the invention is in the form of one of its derivatives in which the hydroxyproline of the GFOGER motif is modified to the form of proline. Thus, according to this embodiment of the invention, the peptide derivative is:

[0049] SEQ ID No. 4: GPP-GPP-GPP-GPO-GFPGER-GPO-GPP-GPP-GFF

[0050] O denoting proline modified in the form of hydroxyproline, preferably (2S,4R)-4- hydroxyproline(4- Hyp).

[0051] This same peptide can also be written using the general formula 5:

[0052] (Gly-Pro-Pro)3- Gly-Pro-Hyp -Gly- Phe -Pro - Gly- Glu- Arg -Gly-Pro-Hyp-(Gly-Pro-Pro)? - Gly-Phe-Phe (5)

[0053] Similarly, according to another embodiment of the invention, the peptide according to the invention can also be in the form of one of its derivatives in which the last hydroxyproline of the GPO motif and the hydroxyproline of the GFOGER motif are modified to the form of proline. Thus, according to this embodiment of the invention, the peptide derivative is:

[0054] SEQ ID No. 5: GPP-GPP-GPP-GPP-GFPGER-GPP-GPP-GPP-GFF

[0055] This same peptide can also be written under the general formula 6: (Gly-Pro-Pro)4 - Gly-Phe-Pro - Gly-Glu-Arg -(Gly-Pro-Pro)3 - Gly-Phe-Phe (6)

[0056] Similarly, according to another embodiment of the invention, the peptide according to the invention can also be in the form of one of its derivatives in which the hydroxyproline of the GFOGER motif is modified to the form of proline and the last proline of the GPP motif is modified to the form of hydroxyproline. Thus, according to this embodiment of the invention, the peptide derivative is: SEQ ID No. 22: GPO-GPO-GPO-GPO-GFPGER-GPO-GPO-GPO-GFF

[0057] O denoting proline modified in the form of hydroxyproline, preferably (2S,4R)-4- hydroxyproline(4- Hyp)

[0058] This same peptide can also be written under the general formula 21:

[0059] (Gly-Pro- Hyp)4- Gly- Phe -Pro - Gly- Glu- Arg -(Gly-Pro- Hyp)3 - Gly- Phe- Phe (21)

[0060] Advantageously, the peptide according to the invention is in the form of derivatives comprising a modification of the amino acid at the N- and / or C-terminal position by the addition of a functional group, for example, coupled with a hydrophilic or hydrophobic penetrating agent, a stabilizing agent, or a protecting group, according to conventional methods known to those skilled in the art, in particular by acylation of the terminal -NH2 group, or amidation or alkylation of the terminal -COOH group to form an amide or an ester. This may, in particular, involve grafting onto the free terminal -NH2 group an acyl group comprising 2 to 24 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and which may also contain -OH, -SH, COOH, or CONH2 groups.It may also involve a modification of the terminal free COOH group into an amide group (-CONH2) or the grafting of this terminal free -COOH group by an alkyl or alkoxy group, said group comprising 1 to 24 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched and possibly also containing -OH, -SH, COOH or CONH2 groups.

[0061] According to one embodiment of the invention, the term "peptide derivative" means the peptide which has an N-terminal amino acid modification with a linear or branched C2-C24 acyl group, saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted, preferably the peptide which has an N-terminal amino acid modification with an acetyl group.

[0062] In this particular embodiment, the peptide derivative according to the invention of SEQ ID No. 1 has the general formula 7:

[0063] CH3- C(=O)-(Gly-Pro-Pro)3- Gly-Pro-Hyp- Gly- Phe -Hyp - Gly- Glu- Arg - Gly-Pro-Hyp - (Gly- Pro-Pro)2 -Gly- Phe- Phe (7), that of SEQ ID N°2 has the general formula 8: CH3-C(=O)-(Gly-Pro- Hyp)4- Gly- Phe -Hyp - Gly- Glu- Arg -(Gly-Pro- Hyp)3-Gly- Phe- Phe -

[0064] (8), that of SEQ ID N°3 has the general formula 9:

[0065] CH3-C(=O)- (Gly-Pro- Pro)4- Gly- Phe -Hyp - Gly- Glu- Arg -(Gly-Pro- Pro)3- Gly- Phe- Phe -

[0066] (9), that of SEQ ID N°4 has the general formula 10:

[0067] CH3-C(=O)- (Gly-Pro- Pro)3- Gly-Pro-Hyp -Gly- Phe -Pro - Gly- Glu- Arg -Gly-Pro-Hyp-(Gly- Pro- Pro)? - Gly- Phe- Phe (10) and that of SEQ ID N°5 has the general formula 11:

[0068] CH3-C(=O)- (Gly-Pro- Pro)4- Gly- Phe -Pro - Gly- Glu- Arg -(Gly-Pro- Pro)3- Gly- Phe- Phe (11) that of SEQ ID N°22 has the general formula 22:

[0069] CH3-C(=O)- (Gly-Pro- Hyp)4- Gly- Phe -Pro - Gly- Glu- Arg -(Gly-Pro- Hyp)3- Gly- Phe- Phe (22) in which Hyp designates hydroxyproline, preferentially (2S,4R)-4- hydroxyproline(4- Hyp).

[0070] According to another embodiment of the invention, the term "peptide derivative" refers to the peptide that comprises a modification of the C-terminal amino acid with a Ci-C amide function. 24 or ester in Ci-C 24 said function being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted, or with a primary amide function, preferably a primary amide (-NH2).

[0071] Thus advantageously, the carboxylic group -COOH at the C-terminal end of the peptide according to the invention is transformed into an amide group -CONH2.

[0072] In this particular embodiment, the peptide derivative according to the invention of SEQ ID No. 1 has the general formula 12:

[0073] (Gly-Pro-Pro)3- Gly-Pro-Hyp- Gly- Phe -Hyp - Gly- Glu- Arg - Gly-Pro-Hyp - (Gly-Pro-Pro)2-Gly- Phe- Phe-NH2(12) and that of SEQ ID N°2 has the general formula 13:

[0074] (Gly-Pro-Hyp)4- Gly- Phe-Hyp - Gly- Glu- Arg -(Gly-Pro-Hyp)3-Gly- Phe- Phe- NH2(13) that of SEQ ID N°3 has the general formula 14:

[0075] (Gly-Pro-Pro)4- Gly-Phe-Hyp- Gly-Glu-Arg-(Gly-Pro-Pro)3- Gly-Phe-Phe-NH2. (14), that of SEQ ID N°4 has the general formula 15:

[0076] (Gly-Pro-Pro)3- Gly-Pro-Hyp -Gly-Phe -Pro - Gly-Glu-Arg -Gly-Pro-Hyp-(Gly-Pro-Pro)2- Gly-Phe-Phe-NH2(15) and that of SEQ ID No. 5 has the general formula 16: (Gly-Pro-Pro)4 - Gly-Phe -Pro - Gly-Glu-Arg -(Gly-Pro-Pro)3 - Gly-Phe-Phe-NH2 (16). and that of SEQ ID No. 22 has the general formula 23:

[0077] (Gly-Pro-Hyp)4- Gly- Phe -Pro - Gly- Glu- Arg -(Gly-Pro-Hyp)3 - Gly- Phe- Phe NH2 (23) in which Hyp designates hydroxyproline, preferentially (2S,4R)-4- hydroxyproline(4-Hyp).

[0078] In a third embodiment, the peptide according to the invention is acetylated at its N-terminus and amidated at its C-terminus and corresponds to the derivative of SEQ No. 1 of formula: CH3-C(=O)-GPP-GPP-GPP-GPO-GFOGER-GPO-GPP-GPP-GFF-NH2 with the amino acid O in the GPO and GFOGER motifs denoting the modified proline in the form of hydroxyproline, preferably (2S,4R)-4-hydroxyproline (4-Hyp).

[0079] This same peptide can also be written according to the general formula 2:

[0080] CH3- C(=O)-(Gly-Pro-Pro)3- Gly-Pro-Hyp- Gly- Phe -Hyp - Gly- Glu- Arg - Gly-Pro-Hyp- (Gly- Pro-Pro)2 -Gly- Phe- Phe-NH2 (2) in which Hyp designates hydroxyproline, preferentially (2S,4R)-4-hydroxyproline(4- Hyp).

[0081] Thus this peptide has an amide group -CONH2 in place of the carboxylic group -COOH at the C-terminal end of the peptide and an acetyl group CH3-C(=O) on the N-terminal amine of the peptide.

[0082] This preferred derivative of the peptide according to the invention is described in example lb).

[0083] According to one variant of the invention, the peptide is in the form of the derivative of SEQ ID No. 2 and further comprises a modification of the amino acid in the N and / or C terminal position by the addition of a functional group as previously described.

[0084] In particular, the SEQ ID No. 2 derivative has an amide group -CONH2 in place of the carboxyl group -COOH at the C-terminal end of the peptide and an acetyl group CH3-C(=O) on the N-terminal amine of the peptide. Such a peptide is written as:

[0085] CH3- C(=O) -GPO-GPO-GPO-GPO-GFOGER -(GPO)3-GFF -NH2. The amino acid O in the GPO and GFOGER motifs denotes proline modified as hydroxyproline, preferentially (2S,4R)-4-hydroxyproline (4-Hyp).

[0086] This same peptide can also be written according to the general formula 17:

[0087] CH3- C(=O)-(Gly-Pro-Hyp)4- Gly- Phe -Hyp - Gly- Glu- Arg - (Gly-Pro-Hyp)2-Gly-Phe-Phe-NH2(17)- According to a variant of the invention, the peptide is in the form of the derivative of SEQ No. 3 and further comprises a modification of the amino acid in the N and / or C terminal position by the addition of a functional group as previously described.

[0088] In particular, the SEQ ID No. 3 derivative has an amide group -CONH2 in place of the carboxyl group -COOH at the C-terminal end of the peptide and an acetyl group CH3-C(=O) on the N-terminal amine of the peptide. Such a peptide is written as:

[0089] CH3-C(=O)- GPP- GPP- GPP- GPP- GFOGER- GPP- GPP- GPP- GFF -NH2l amino acid O in the GFOGER motif designating proline modified as hydroxyproline, preferentially (2S,4R)-4-hydroxyproline (4-Hyp).

[0090] This same peptide can also be written according to the general formula 18:

[0091] CH3- C(=O)- (Gly-Pro- Pro)4- Gly- Phe -Hyp - Gly- Glu- Arg -(Gly-Pro- Pro)3- Gly- Phe- Phe- NH2(18).

[0092] In particular, the SEQ ID No. 4 derivative has an amide group -CONH2 in place of the carboxyl group -COOH at the C-terminal end of the peptide and an acetyl group CH3-C(=O) on the N-terminal amine of the peptide. Such a peptide is written as:

[0093] CH3-C(=O)- GPP- GPP- GPP- GPO-GFPGER- GPO- GPP- GPP- GFF -NH2l amino acid O in the GPO motif designating proline modified as hydroxyproline, preferentially (2S,4R)-4-hydroxyproline (4-Hyp).

[0094] This same peptide can also be written according to the general formula 19:

[0095] CH3- C(=O)- (Gly-Pro- Pro)3- Gly-Pro- Hyp -Gly- Phe -Pro - Gly- Glu- Arg - Gly-Pro-Hyp-(Gly- Pro- Pro)2- Gly- Phe- Phe -NH2(19).

[0096] In particular, the SEQ ID No. 5 derivative has an amide group -CONH2 in place of the carboxyl group -COOH at the C-terminal end of the peptide and an acetyl group CH3-C(=O) on the N-terminal amine of the peptide. Such a peptide is written as:

[0097] CH3-C(=O)- GPP- GPP- GPP- GPP-GFPGER- GPP- GPP- GPP- GFF -NH2.

[0098] This same peptide can also be written according to the general formula 20:

[0099] CH3- C(=O)- (Gly-Pro- Pro)4- Gly- Phe -Pro - Gly- Glu- Arg -(Gly-Pro- Pro)3- Gly- Phe- Phe - NH2(20).

[0100] In particular, the derivative of SEQ ID No. 22 has an amide group -CONH2 in place of the carboxyl group -COOH at the C-terminal end of the peptide and an acetyl group CH3-C(=O) on the N-terminal amine of the peptide. Such a peptide is written:

[0101] CH3-C(=O)- GPO- GPO- GPO- GPO-GFPGER- GPO- GPO- GPO- GFF -NH2.

[0102] O in GPO motifs denoting proline modified as hydroxyproline, preferentially (2S,4R)-4-hydroxyproline(4-Hyp)

[0103] This same peptide can also be written according to the general formula 24: CH3- C(=O)- (Gly-Pro- Hyp)4- Gly- Phe -Pro - Gly- Glu- Arg -(Gly-Pro- Hyp)3- Gly- Phe- Phe -NH2(24).

[0104] The derivatives of the peptide according to the invention are cosmetically and / or dermatologically acceptable, in particular topically acceptable.

[0105] According to the invention, "salts" refers to the peptide formed by the reaction of the peptide with an acid or a base, resulting in the formation of a salt. The peptide then carries a positive charge due to the protonation of its amino groups, while the counter-ion from the acid or base provides a negative charge. Peptide salts according to the invention include acetate, hydrochlorate, sulfate, phosphate, and trifluoroacetate; preferably, acetate or hydrochlorate.

[0106] The salts of the peptide according to the invention are cosmetically and / or dermatologically acceptable, in particular topically acceptable.

[0107] The term “peptide according to the invention” means the peptide of SEQ ID No. 1 and / or its derivatives and / or its salts as described above.

[0108] In one embodiment, the peptide according to the invention is exactly that of SEQ ID No. 1.

[0109] In another preferred embodiment, the peptide according to the invention is the derivative of the SEQ ID No. 1 peptide in the N-terminally acetylated and C-terminally amidated form of the formula:

[0110] CH3- C(=O)- GPP-GPP-GPP-GPO-GFOGER- GPO-GPP-GPP-GFF-NH2 where O in the GPO and GFOGER motifs denotes proline modified as hydroxyproline, preferably (2S,4R)-4-hydroxyproline(4-Hyp)

[0111] This derivative corresponds to the general formula 2:

[0112] CH3- C(=O)-(Gly-Pro-Pro)3- Gly-Pro-Hyp- Gly- Phe -Hyp - Gly- Glu- Arg - Gly-Pro-Hyp - (Gly- Pro-Pro)2-Gly-Phe-Phe-NH2(2). where Hyp designates hydroxyproline, preferentially (2S,4R)-4-hydroxyproline (4- Hyp).

[0113] According to another preferred embodiment, the peptide according to the invention is selected from the peptides of SEQ ID No. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 22 and / or in particular in the acetylated form at the N-terminus and amidated at the C-terminus, preferably the peptide of SEQ ID No. 1. Preferably, the salts and derivatives of the peptide according to the invention do not contain a Gly-Gly-Gly- group at the N-terminus and biotin, of formula C10H16N2O3S and corresponding to 5-[(3aS,4S,6aR)-2-oxohexahydro-1H-thieno[3,4-d]imidazol-4-yl]pentanoic acid (CAS 58-85-5).

[0114] Thus, the peptide according to the invention, the cosmetic ingredient, and the cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions according to the invention do not include the following SEQ ID No. 9 peptide: Biotin - GGG-GPP-GPP-GPP-GPO-GFOGER- GPO-GPP-GPP-GFF-NH2

[0115] O denoting proline modified in the form of hydroxyproline, in particular (2S,4R)-4-hydroxyproline (4-Hyp).

[0116] The peptide according to the invention, its derivatives and its salts, can be obtained by chemical synthesis or by biotechnological synthesis using a microorganism produced naturally or by recombinant technologies with methods well known to those skilled in the art.

[0117] According to one embodiment, the peptide according to the invention can be obtained by chemical synthesis using conventional techniques. The techniques for the chemical synthesis of peptides are known to those skilled in the art, and examples include the techniques described in JM Stewart and JD Young, *Solid Phase Peptide Synthesis*, 2 ndeditions, Pierce Chemical Company, Rockford, Illinois (1984), or M. Bodanzsky and A. Bodanzsky, The practice of peptide synthesis, Springer Verlag. New York (1984) as well as that described in the publication LL Bennink et al, Visualizing collagen proteolysis by peptide hybridization: From 3D cell culture to in vivo imaging, Biomaterials 183(2018)67-76.

[0118] Thus, according to one embodiment of the present invention, the peptide is chemically synthesized in the solid and / or liquid phase, where the amino acids are sequentially coupled via peptide bonds. The steps include protecting the amino acid functional groups to prevent undesired reactions, coupling the amino acids, and final deprotection to release the synthesized peptide.

[0119] In a particular embodiment, the peptide according to the invention shall have a purity level of at least 50%, preferably at least 70%, advantageously at least 80%, preferably at least 90%, even more preferably at least 95% (w / w).

[0120] According to another alternative method, the peptide according to the invention can be obtained by biotechnological synthesis, in particular from a recombinant bacterial or yeast strain, that is to say, a strain genetically modified to produce the peptide according to the invention. The bacterial strain is preferably Escherichia coii, and the yeast strain is preferably chosen from Pichia and Saccharomyces, in particular Pichia pastoris and Saccharomyces cerevisiae.

[0121] The production of the peptide by a yeast strain classically involves the following steps, which are well known to those skilled in the art:

[0122] - transformation of yeast using a peptide expression system according to the invention coupled to export signal sequences, typically of plasmid type;

[0123] - culture of the transgenic yeast on a culture medium;

[0124] - batch and / or fed-batch fermentation;

[0125] - recovery of fermentation must and removal of yeast biomass, for example by centrifugation and filtration or tangential microfiltration;

[0126] - concentration and / or purification of the peptide.

[0127] According to an alternative embodiment of the present invention, the peptide is used in the form of a lysate or fermentation filtrate of microorganism by producing, preferably from a recombinant bacterium or yeast, more preferably chosen from recombinant Escherichia coli bacterium, or recombinant yeasts of the genus Pichia or Saccharomyces, even more preferably from Pichia pastoris yeast or Saccharomyces cerevisiae yeast, in particular genetically modified to produce this sequence, said fermentation filtrate being preferably enriched in peptide according to the invention.

[0128] According to an alternative embodiment of the present invention, the peptide is used in a purified form from a lysate or fermentation filtrate by the usual peptide purification techniques, in particular selected from membrane filtration, chromatography, precipitation and / or immunoprecipitation.

[0129] According to the invention, a "recombinant bacterium" or "recombinant yeast" is understood to mean a bacterium or yeast whose cells have been genetically modified to genetically express the peptide according to the invention.

[0130] According to the invention, a "lysate" of a bacterium or yeast is defined as a preparation from the cells, either in the fermentation medium or after separation from the fermentation medium by centrifugation and / or filtration. This lysate is obtained after partial or total degradation or rupture of the plasma membrane and / or cell wall to partially or completely release their contents. This process can be carried out by mechanical, chemical, or enzymatic methods well known to those skilled in the art, and may be followed by partial or total purification of the peptide of interest. According to the invention, a "fermentation filtrate" is defined as the solution obtained after culturing the recombinant bacterium or yeast in a fermentation medium, and after a step of separating and removing the yeast or bacterial cells by filtration. The separation and / or removal step may include and / or be preceded by centrifugation.

[0131] According to an alternative embodiment of the invention, the peptide according to the invention, one of its salts or one of its derivatives is contained in a fermentation filtrate, preferably in an amount of at least equal to or greater than 0.0001% by weight relative to the total weight of the filtrate, preferably between 0.001% and 10%, more preferably between 0.01% and 5%, by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the filtrate.

[0132] The N-terminal amino acid can be modified with a linear or branched C2-C24 acyl group, saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted, preferentially at C2 i.e. an acetyl group (CH3-C(=O)).

[0133] The C-terminal amino acid may be modified with a C1-C24 amide function or a Ci-C24 ester function, said function being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted, or with a primary amide function, preferably with a primary amine function (-NH2 in place of the -OH of the terminal carboxylic acid).

[0134] It is possible to prepare the synthetic peptide, the fermentation lysates or filtrates, the purified peptide according to the invention in powder form by drying (spray drying, lyophilization, etc.) with or without a drying support such as mannitol, maltodextrin, cyclodextrin, according to the classic formulation techniques known to those skilled in the art, preferably the drying support is maltodextrin or mannitol, preferably mannitol.

[0135] It is also possible to prepare the synthetic peptide, the fermentation lysates or filtrates, and the purified peptide according to the invention as a liquid solution in water, glycerol, and polyols such as diols (propanediol, butanediol, pentanediol, hexanediol, etc.) alone or in mixtures, using conventional dissolution and formulation techniques known to those skilled in the art. Advantageously, the peptide is purified as a liquid solution in water and glycerol, preferably containing at least 50%, and preferably 80%, glycerol by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the liquid solution.

[0136] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the peptide is used at a temperature close to or above its thermal disassembly temperature (approximately 28°C). Thus, the use of the peptide according to the invention is perfectly suited for use on the skin, mucous membranes, and hair at their natural temperatures, in the form of a powdered cosmetic or dermatological ingredient or in the form of a cosmetic or dermatological composition.

[0137] The peptide according to the invention can be used alone, as a cosmetic or dermatological ingredient and / or in a cosmetic or dermatological composition.

[0138] The present invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological ingredient comprising the peptide according to the invention previously described (peptide of sequence SEQ ID No. 1 and / or one of its derivatives and / or one of its salts).

[0139] According to the invention, a "cosmetic or dermatological ingredient" is defined as the peptide alone (peptide with sequence ID No. 1 and / or one of its derivatives and / or one of its salts) or in combination with a cosmetic or dermatological vehicle suitable for topical application, intended to be incorporated into a cosmetic or dermatological composition. Cosmetic ingredients are defined in particular by the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI). According to the invention, the cosmetic or dermatological ingredient is active, that is to say, it is intended to provide cosmetic or dermatological efficacy in the cosmetic or dermatological composition.

[0140] For the purposes of this invention, the term "suitable cosmetic / or dermatological vehicle" means that its composition or components are suitable for use in contact with human skin, mucous membranes and / or hair, without undue toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergic response, or their equivalents.

[0141] Preferably, the cosmetic or dermatological ingredient comprises the peptide of SEQ ID No. 1, possibly in the form of one of its salts and / or one of its derivatives, advantageously the derivative of general formula 2, in a content greater than or equal to 0.0001% by weight, preferably between 0.0001% and 10% by weight, more preferably between 0.005% and 1% by weight, even more preferably between 0.01% and 0.25% by weight, again preferentially between 0.01% and 0.1% by weight, again advantageously about 0.02% by weight (i.e. 200 ppm), of dry matter in relation to the total weight of the cosmetic or dermatological ingredient.

[0142] Thus the cosmetic or dermatological ingredient may be used in a cosmetic or dermatological composition, preferably in a content of between 0.001% and 10% by weight, advantageously between 0.01% and 5% by weight, in particular between 0.1% and 3% by weight, of dry matter in relation to the total weight of the composition.

[0143] Thus, the peptide according to the invention, particularly in the form of a powdered cosmetic or dermatological ingredient, is preferably used in the cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention in a concentration between lxl0 -6 % and 0.1% by weight, preferably of lxl0 -5 % to lxlO -2 % by weight, still advantageously 5xl0 -5 % to 2xl0 -3 % by weight, in particular lxl0 -4 % to lxl0 -3 % by weight, advantageously 2xl0 -4 % by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0144] The cosmetic or dermatological ingredient according to the invention may be in powder or liquid form.

[0145] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological ingredient is in powder form, obtained in particular after the drying step, preferably by lyophilization or spray drying, the peptide being mixed with an inert support, conventionally a spray-drying support such as mannitol, maltodextrin, or cyclodextrin. Preferably, the drying support is maltodextrin or mannitol, and again, preferably mannitol. Thus, in one embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological ingredient according to the invention is in powder form further containing mannitol. In another particular embodiment, the ingredient according to the invention in powder form consists of a mixture of the peptide according to the invention and the drying support such as mannitol, maltodextrin, or cyclodextrin, preferably a mixture of the peptide according to the invention and mannitol.

[0146] In another particular embodiment, the ingredient according to the invention in powder form consists of a mixture of peptide according to the invention, said peptide according to the invention being preferably the peptide of SEQ ID No. 1, in the fermentation filtrate or lysate of a yeast and the drying support such as mannitol, maltodextrin, cyclodextrin, preferably mannitol.

[0147] Preferably, the ingredient according to the invention, in powder form, has a peptide content according to the invention (peptide of sequence SEQ ID No. 1 and / or one of its derivatives and / or one of its salts) of between 0.01% and 0.25% by weight, in particular between 0.01% and 0.1% by weight, preferably 0.02% by weight, of dry matter relative to the total weight of the ingredient, preferably the ingredient according to the invention in powder form further comprising a drying agent, preferably mannitol. In a particular embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological ingredient according to the invention is in powder form and contains 99.98% by weight of mannitol and 0.02% by weight of the peptide according to the invention, advantageously the peptide of general formula 2, of dry matter relative to the total weight of the ingredient, in particular as described in Example 9.According to an alternative embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological ingredient is in liquid form, the peptide being solubilized and / or diluted in a solvent, particularly a polar solvent, such as water, an alcohol, and / or a polyol such as glycerol, propanediol, a glycol such as pentylene glycol and / or butylene glycol and / or hexylene glycol, in particular 1,2-hexylene glycol, and / or caprylyl glycol, or a mixture thereof. In particular, it may be a mixture of water, glycerol, and hexylene glycol such as 1,2-hexylene glycol (or 1,2-hexanediol). The peptide may also be contained in the production lysate or fermentate, particularly as an aqueous solution, and may be used directly as a cosmetic or dermatological ingredient or in concentrated form.Preferably, the ingredient according to the invention in liquid form contains a peptide content according to the invention of between 0.01% and 0.1% by weight, preferably 0.02% by weight, of dry matter relative to the total weight of the ingredient.

[0148] For the purposes of the present invention, "topical route" means the application of the peptide according to the invention, preferably in the form of a cosmetic or dermatological ingredient and / or the cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention, to the surface of the skin, in particular the scalp and / or mucous membranes, and / or hair, preferably the hair, in particular by direct application or by spraying.

[0149] The peptide according to the invention, its salts and derivatives are topically acceptable.

[0150] For the purposes of the present invention, "topically acceptable" means an ingredient suitable for topical application, non-toxic, non-irritating to the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or hair, which does not induce an allergic response and is not chemically unstable.

[0151] For the purposes of the present invention, "cosmetically acceptable" means a cosmetic ingredient that is non-toxic, non-irritating to the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or hair, does not induce an allergic response and is chemically stable.

[0152] For the purposes of this invention, "dermatologically acceptable" means a dermatological ingredient that is non-toxic, non-irritating to the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or hair, does not induce an allergic response, and is chemically stable. The peptide according to the invention, its salts, and derivatives are particularly suitable for application to the skin, mucous membranes, and hair.

[0153] For the purposes of this invention, "skin" means the skin of all or part of the body, particularly human skin, including the scalp, selected from the face, hands, arms, décolletage, legs, neck, back, shoulders, abdomen, wrists, forearms, ankles, thighs, nape of the neck, scalp, joint and / or armpit creases, and labial mucous membranes, preferably the face, particularly the area around the eyes and / or mouth and the forehead. In particular, skin is that which may be exposed to aggressive agents, especially those likely to degrade collagen fibers, including areas exposed to aggressive environmental or chemical agents, friction, and / or maceration. This includes, more specifically, the face, particularly the area around the lips and / or eyes and the forehead, the scalp, hands, neck, décolletage, joint creases, and / or armpits.

[0154] For the purposes of the present invention, "mucous membrane(s)" means the ocular, nasal, vaginal, anal and / or oral mucosa, in particular the oral and labial mucosa, preferably the labial, ocular and / or nasal mucosa.

[0155] For the purposes of the present invention, "phaneres" means nails and "keratin fibers".

[0156] The term “keratin fibers” refers to hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, body hair, particularly beard and / or mustache hair, preferentially hair.

[0157] For the purposes of this invention, "cosmetic" means a non-pharmaceutical, non-therapeutic use that is not intended for the prevention and / or treatment of skin, mucous membranes, and / or hair and nails that have been diagnosed as pathological by a specialist in the field, such as a dermatologist. It therefore refers to use on healthy skin, mucous membranes, and / or hair and nails.

[0158] The term "improve" a parameter means a significant increase in the measured value of that parameter after treatment with the peptide according to the invention compared to the value of that parameter obtained without treatment with that peptide.

[0159] The term "maintaining" a parameter means preventing and / or inhibiting the decrease in the value of the parameter measured after treatment with the peptide according to the invention by comparison to the value of the decrease in this parameter obtained without treatment with this peptide, particularly under the effect of aggressive agent(s).

[0160] According to the present invention, "aggressive agents" means environmental agents such as pollutants, climatic factors (such as wind, cold, heat), UV exposure, biological factors, including emotional factors such as stress, dietary and / or hormonal imbalances, and / or chemical agents (for example, heavy metals, detergents, compounds contained in cosmetic treatments such as perfumes, preservatives, alcohols, pH, AHAs or dermatological such as acid vitamin A), and / or aggressive conditions including perspiration and mechanical aggressions such as hair removal, shaving, friction, and even water, especially hard water.

[0161] The term "healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes and / or healthy skin appendages" means all or part of an area of ​​healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes and / or healthy skin appendages, particularly human skin, to which the peptide according to the invention is applied and which is said to be "non-pathological" by a dermatologist, i.e., not presenting with cancer, infection, pathological scar, skin disease or condition such as candidiasis, impetigo, psoriasis, eczema, acne, ichthyosis, gingivitis or dermatitis, in particular atopic dermatitis, or wounds, in particular diabetic lesions or injuries or aphthous ulcers or ulcerations or burns and / or other dermatoses, or aphthous ulcers or inflammation or irritation such as erythema, in particular solar erythema and / or diaper rash, elastosis, in particular solar elastosis,or urticaria or allergies such as contact allergy or alopecia, or pathologies associated with glycation and / or wound healing and / or associated with a decrease in the quantity and / or quality of collagen and / or the quantity of elafin and / or the proteins PLN1, Livel, FabP4, and / or Proxl. It is therefore not a case of inflamed, atopic, reactive, damaged, and / or irritated skin or mucous membranes.

[0162] Preferably, the peptide according to the invention is applied topically, advantageously on specific parts and / or areas of the body chosen from among the scalp, face, in particular the contour of the lips and / or eyes as well as the forehead, hands, arms, décolleté, legs, neck, back, shoulders, belly, wrists, forearms, ankles, thighs, nape of the neck, joint folds, and / or armpits, labial mucous membranes.

[0163] The peptide according to the invention, optionally in the form of its salts and / or derivatives, advantageously in the form of the derivative with general formula 2, is useful and can be used alone and / or as a cosmetic ingredient and / or in a cosmetic composition to improve the condition and / or appearance and / or comfort of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes and / or healthy hair and nails, and preferably for:

[0164] - to prevent and / or reduce the signs of aging of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, and / or

[0165] - to improve the architecture of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, in particular to regenerate healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, and / or to increase the thickness of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, and / or to prevent thinning of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, in particular to prevent thin skin and / or thin mucous membranes, and / or to strengthen the skin and / or mucous membrane barrier, and / or

[0166] - to prevent and / or treat unsightly marks on healthy skin and / or mucous membranes, in particular to prevent and / or treat unsightly non-pathological scars on healthy skin and / or mucous membranes, and / or reduce their visibility, and / or

[0167] - to improve and / or maintain the biomechanical properties of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, in particular firmness, density, elasticity, suppleness, and / or tone, and / or

[0168] - to soothe healthy skin, particularly a healthy scalp, and / or healthy mucous membranes, particularly sensitive skin, including a sensitive scalp, and / or sensitive mucous membranes, and / or

[0169] - to improve and / or maintain healthy hair and skin appendages, in particular to improve and / or maintain the growth of hair and skin appendages, especially keratin fibers, and / or the quality of the keratin material produced at the level of the hair and skin appendages, especially keratin fibers, and / or to prevent and / or reduce the loss of hair and skin appendages, especially keratin fibers, preferentially hair.

[0170] The applicant has indeed discovered that the peptide according to the invention, and in particular the peptide of general formula 2, allows:

[0171] - to increase the amount of collagen, in particular by increasing the synthesis of type III collagen (example 3) and the quality and / or quantity of collagen fibers, notably by decreasing the amount of damaged collagen (example 2) in the skin and / or mucous membranes,

[0172] - to increase the proliferation of keratinocytes and the adhesion of keratinocytes to the dermis in the skin and / or mucous membranes, particularly when the epidermis is weakened (example 4),

[0173] - to increase the thickness of the skin and / or mucous membranes, in particular the thickness of the epidermis (example 8), the dermis (example 3) and the hypodermis (example 7),

[0174] - to reduce wrinkles, in particular their maximum and average depth, especially wrinkles under the eyes (example 11),

[0175] - to reduce glycation in the skin and / or mucous membranes (example 5),

[0176] - to increase the amount of elafin in the skin and / or mucous membranes, in particular its expression (example 6), - to improve the hypodermis, and / or to increase and / or prevent the decrease of subcutaneous fat (example 7), in particular by improving lipid metabolism, notably by preventing the decrease of lipid storage by stimulating FabP4 and / or by protecting them against lipases (by stimulating PLN1), and / or by improving the functioning of lymphatic vessels (by stimulating Lyvel and / or Proxl), and can therefore be used for these properties in the skin and / or mucous membranes.

[0177] The peptide according to the invention allows for the "improvement of collagen fibers," that is, increasing their quality and / or quantity and / or preventing their degradation. Indeed, it increases the synthesis of collagen III, as demonstrated in Example 3 on the dermis. Furthermore, the peptide according to the invention is capable of binding significantly to damaged collagen, as demonstrated in Example 2, which suggests its ability to reduce the amount of damaged collagen present in the skin. Thus, the peptide allows both the repair of damaged collagen fibers and the stimulation of the production of new collagen fibers.

[0178] The peptide according to the invention reduces glycation in the skin and / or mucous membranes, that is, the phenomenon by which sugars bind to proteins, particularly elastin and collagen, leading to a loss of their properties, specifically a loss of elasticity, suppleness, density, firmness, and rigidity. This property is demonstrated in particular by the inhibition of the formation of advanced glycation end products (AGEs) in Example 5.

[0179] The peptide according to the invention increases the amount of elafin (also known as SKALP), in particular its expression, as demonstrated in Example 6. Elafin is an endogenous protein produced by epithelial cells that has an anti-elastase effect in the skin (Pfundt et al, J Clin Invest. 1996 Sep 15;98(6): 1389-1399). Thus, elafin, through this protective function against the degradation of elastin, plays a key role in the protection of the cutaneous elastic network, particularly in response to stresses such as UVA rays (Alam et al, Biochemical Pharmacology Volume 83, Issue 6, March 2012, 695-704; Aimond et al, Skin Pharmacol Physiol 2023;36:249-258) and therefore contributes to maintaining skin elasticity, the structure of elastic fibers in the dermis, and the anchoring of hair and nails in the dermis.Furthermore, elafin has an anti-inflammatory action and the stimulation of its synthesis contributes to an anti-inflammatory effect in particular and in wound healing (Moreau et al. Biochimie 90 (2008) 284-295).

[0180] The peptide according to the invention contributes to the maintenance and improvement of the quality of the hypodermis, notably through its ability to increase and prevent the decrease of subcutaneous fat, particularly under stress, as demonstrated in Example 7. TNFα, an inflammatory cytokine secreted by keratinocytes and fibroblasts, is particularly described for its role in skin aging processes (Yong Zhuang and John Lyga, Inflammation & Allergy - Drug Targets, 2014, 13, 153-161; Amir Ajoolabady et al., Trends in Endocrinology & Metabolism, June 2023, Vol. 34, No. 6) and inhibits the differentiation of preadipocytes (WP Cawthorn et al., Cell Death and Differentiation (2007) 14), prevents the formation of new adipocytes, and increases lipolysis (Allan Green et al., DIABETES, VOL. 53, JANUARY 2004), which leads to a loss of subcutaneous fat (Wen-Hwa Li et al., Journal of Dermatological Science 71 (2013) 58-66).Furthermore, TNFα increases blood vessel permeability and impairs lymphatic drainage, leading to local inflammation and altered adipocyte metabolism. The resulting decrease in facial fat volume causes sagging skin, which accentuates the signs of aging in healthy skin and mucous membranes.

[0181] The peptide according to the invention increases the expression of perilipin (PLN1). This protein is a key regulator of lipolysis, controlling access to lipid reserves according to the body's energy needs and acting as a protective barrier, preventing lipolytic enzymes from accessing stored fat. Maintaining a basal PLN1 level under stress helps maintain plump adipocytes (Camille Desgrouas et al., Cardiovascular Research (2024) 120, 237-248). As demonstrated in Example 7, the peptide according to the invention acts on PLN1 synthesis and therefore on the hypodermis, helping to preserve its health, particularly its thickness, which contributes to the overall proper functioning of healthy skin, mucous membranes, and hair.

[0182] The peptide according to the invention increases the expression of the FabP4 protein. This protein plays a crucial role in lipid metabolism under stress, and the restoration of its expression by the peptide in cases of TNFα inflammation indicates a return to normal lipid metabolism. The health of adipose tissue influences that of the dermis (Chuin Ying Ung et al., The International Journal of Biochemistry & Cell Biology, Volume 139, 2021; Nancy Wareing et al., bioRxiv [Preprint]. 2024). As demonstrated in Example 7, the peptide according to the invention acts on FabP4 synthesis and thus on the quality of the hypodermis, helping to maintain good hypodermal health, which contributes to the overall proper functioning of healthy skin, mucous membranes, and hair.

[0183] The peptide according to the invention increases the expression of the Lyvel protein (Lymphatic Vessel Endothelial Hyaluronan Receptor 1) (Example 7). This membrane receptor, primarily expressed on the surface of endothelial cells of lymphatic vessels, plays an important role in lymphatic function and skin physiology. Maintaining its expression level, particularly during inflammatory stress, contributes to proper lymphatic function and therefore to the health of skin, mucous membranes, and hair.

[0184] The peptide according to the invention increases the expression of Prox 1 (Prospero homeobox protein 1) (Example 7). This protein is a key marker of lymphatic endothelial cells, essential for the differentiation of venous endothelial cells into lymphatic cells, a fundamental process for the formation of the cutaneous lymphatic network. Maintaining its expression level, particularly during inflammatory stress, contributes to proper lymphatic function and therefore to the health of skin, mucous membranes, and hair.

[0185] Furthermore, the peptide according to the invention has the advantage of acting very comprehensively on the different compartments of the skin and mucous membranes:

[0186] - on the epidermis by stimulating the proliferation of keratinocytes and their adhesion to the dermis,

[0187] - on the dermis by improving collagen, particularly its quality and / or quantity, notably type III collagen, through anti-glycation activity and by stimulating elafin,

[0188] - on the hypodermis via the increase and / or prevention of the decrease of subcutaneous fats, in particular by improving lipid metabolism, notably by preventing the decrease of lipid storage by stimulating FabP4 and / or by protecting them against lipases by stimulating PLN1, and / or by improving the proper functioning of lymphatic vessels (by stimulating Lyvel and / or Proxl), which in general contributes to the good condition and / or proper functioning of the hypodermis.

[0189] These effects are not achieved with prior art peptides or with the GFOGER sequence (SEQ ID No. 6) alone, as the examples demonstrate. These properties thus contribute to improving the overall condition of the skin and / or mucous membranes, and therefore to anchoring the hair follicles, particularly the hair follicle, in the dermis and hypodermis, and to ensuring that the hair follicle is well-nourished, functioning properly and producing high-quality keratin fibers, especially hair.

[0190] Thus, the peptide according to the invention is generally useful for preventing the appearance and / or reducing unsightly, unpleasant and / or uncomfortable manifestations in healthy skin, mucous membranes and / or hair, visible and / or felt due to a change in the state of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes and / or hair, due to:

[0191] - a decrease in the quantity of collagen, in particular the synthesis of type III collagen, and / or a decrease in the quality and / or quantity of collagen fibers, in particular an increase in damaged collagen in healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes and / or

[0192] - a decrease in keratinocyte proliferation and / or their adhesion to the dermis and / or

[0193] - a decrease in the thickness of the skin and / or mucous membranes, particularly the epidermis, dermis and / or hypodermis and / or

[0194] - an increase in glycation in the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or

[0195] - a decrease in the amount of elafin in the skin and / or mucous membranes, in particular its protein expression, and / or

[0196] - a decrease in the quality of the hypodermis and / or subcutaneous fat, particularly in cases of decreased PLN1, FabP4, Lyvel and / or Proxl, and / or

[0197] - an increase in wrinkles, particularly in their maximum depth and / or average depth, especially wrinkles under the eyes.

[0198] The peptide according to the invention, possibly in the form of a cosmetic ingredient and / or a cosmetic composition, in particular the derivative of general formula 2, is useful for preventing and / or reducing the signs of aging of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0199] The term "preventing and / or reducing the signs of aging" refers to delaying and / or preventing the appearance and / or reducing the quantity and / or extent of signs of aging in healthy skin and / or mucous membranes, whether natural or induced by aggressive agents (particularly photo-induced). "Signs of aging in healthy skin" encompass all unsightly manifestations of healthy skin due to skin aging and include the decline in the biomechanical properties of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes, particularly firmness and / or tone, and / or changes in the structure of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes due to skin aging, whether this aging is natural or induced by aggressive agents (particularly photo-induced), especially the reduction in the thickness of healthy skin.

[0200] Preferably, the signs of aging in healthy skin are the appearance of marked microrelief in the skin, the formation and / or presence of fine lines, wrinkles and / or lines, including frown lines and crow's feet, especially under the eyes and around the lips, sagging skin, roughness of healthy skin and / or withering of healthy skin and / or lack of firmness, elasticity and / or tone of healthy skin.

[0201] The peptide according to the invention, in particular the derivative of general formula 2, has demonstrated its properties to prevent and / or reduce the signs of aging of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes in that it binds to damaged collagen and allows to decrease its quantity (example 2), increases the quantity of type III collagen (example 3), decreases glycation (example 5), increases the quantity of elafin, in particular its expression (example 6), improves the hypodermis and / or increases and / or prevents the decrease in the quality of the hypodermis and / or subcutaneous fats (example 7) and increases the thickness of the epidermis (example 8).

[0202] These signs of skin aging can be measured by clinical tests, including measuring the maximum and average depth of wrinkles under the eyes, as described in example 11.

[0203] The peptide according to the invention, possibly in the form of its salts and / or derivatives, in particular the derivative of general formula 2, can therefore be used to prevent and / or stop the aging of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, natural and / or induced by aggressive agents (in particular photoinduced) and / or to rejuvenate healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, giving them a younger and smoother appearance, in particular by reducing wrinkles, advantageously wrinkles under the eyes.

[0204] The cosmetic ingredient according to the invention is particularly useful as an "anti-aging ingredient" in that it prevents and / or reduces the signs of aging of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0205] The peptide according to the invention, possibly in the form of a cosmetic ingredient and / or cosmetic composition, in particular the derivative of general formula 2, is also useful for improving the architecture of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, in particular for regenerating healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, and / or for increasing the thickness of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, and / or for preventing the thinning of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, in particular preventing thin healthy skin and / or thin healthy mucous membranes, and / or for strengthening the skin and / or mucous barrier.

[0206] The peptide according to the invention, in particular the derivative with general formula 2, improves the architecture of healthy skin and mucous membranes through its properties on their different compartments: - at the level of the epidermis, the peptide increases the proliferation of keratinocytes (example 4), the adhesion of keratinocytes to the dermis (example 4) and the thickness of the epidermis (example 8)

[0207] - at the dermal level, the peptide binds to damaged collagen and reduces it (example 2), increases the synthesis of type III collagen (example 3), has an anti-glycation effect (example 5) and increases the amount of elafin, in particular its protein expression (example 6)

[0208] - at the level of the hypodermis, the peptide contributes to the good condition and proper functioning of the hypodermis and in particular maintains and prevents the reduction of subcutaneous fat (example 7).

[0209] For the purposes of the present invention, "thickness of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes" means the total height of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, in particular the epidermis, dermis and / or hypodermis, preferably the dermis.

[0210] The applicant has indeed shown that the peptide according to the invention makes it possible to increase the quantity of collagen, in particular the synthesis of type III collagen, as well as the quality and / or synthesis of skin collagen fibers and to decrease damaged collagen (examples 2 and 3) but also to increase the quantity of elafin (example 6), which contribute to the thickness of the dermis and its functions.

[0211] The thicknesses of the epidermis and / or dermis can, for example, be measured in vivo using ultrasound imaging, and the thickness of the epidermis can also be measured in vitro as described in example 8.

[0212] The peptide according to the invention, by its properties on the proliferation of keratinocytes and the adhesion of keratinocytes to the dermis, particularly improves the cutaneous and / or mucosal barrier (example 4).

[0213] The peptide according to the invention is particularly useful for regenerating healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, in particular stimulating epidermal renewal, particularly in pre-treatment and / or post-treatment aesthetic procedures, particularly laser treatment.

[0214] The applicant has indeed shown that the peptide according to the invention makes it possible to improve the thickness of the hypodermis by maintaining and / or preventing the reduction of subcutaneous fat (example 7).

[0215] The peptide according to the invention, possibly in the form of a cosmetic ingredient and / or cosmetic composition, in particular the derivative of general formula 2, is also useful for preventing and / or treating unsightly marks on healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, in particular for preventing and / or treating unsightly non-pathological scars, and / or for reducing the visibility of unsightly non-pathological scars.The term "preventing and / or treating unsightly marks on healthy skin and / or mucous membranes" means preventing the appearance and / or improving the appearance and / or look of unsightly marks on healthy skin and / or mucous membranes, including non-pathological scarring, particularly stretched scars, including stretch marks, white, dystrophic, atrophic and keloid scars, particularly scars due to injuries, acne, pimples, chickenpox and / or burns, as well as other marks such as tattoos, laser treatment marks and / or blemishes, and in particular making them less visible.The properties of the peptide to improve the dermis (examples 2, 3, 6) show that the peptide according to the invention is particularly useful for the prevention and / or treatment of unsightly marks on healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, in particular those whose dermis has areas of depression or sagging.

[0216] The peptide according to the invention also makes it possible to prevent and / or treat unsightly marks on healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes by its properties on the proliferation of keratinocytes (example 4), the adhesion of keratinocytes to the dermis (example 4), anti-glycation (example 5), and by increasing the thickness of the epidermis (example 8).

[0217] The peptide according to the invention can in particular be used on healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, in pretreatment and / or posttreatment of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes to prevent and / or reduce unsightly marks on healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes due to tattoos and / or laser treatments.

[0218] The peptide according to the invention, possibly in the form of a cosmetic ingredient and / or cosmetic composition, in particular the derivative of general formula 2, is also useful for improving the biomechanical properties of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0219] For the purposes of the present invention, "biomechanical properties of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes" means the suppleness, firmness, elasticity and / or tone of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes and / or density, and more preferably the firmness and / or elasticity of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0220] For the purposes of this invention, "firmness of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes" means the ability of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes to resist deformation. Firmness can, for example, be measured using conventional techniques known to those skilled in the art. As an in vivo example, firmness can be measured using devices such as an indentometer and a Cutometer®. As an in vitro example, firmness can be assessed by measuring collagen synthesis and / or the level of damaged collagen. Another in vitro example is measuring the binding and enhancement of collagen, particularly collagen damaged by the peptide according to the invention, as described in Example 2.

[0221] For the purposes of this invention, "tonicity of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes" refers to the skin's resistance to deformation and corresponds to the R6 parameter measured according to the method described in Chen et al., Cosmetics 2024, 11, 205. The R6 value increases with skin aging, reflecting a loss of tonicity. Tonicity can, for example, be measured in vivo using a Cutometer®.

[0222] For the purposes of this invention, "density (of the dermis) of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes" refers to the content, organization, and compaction of the structural components of the extracellular matrix, such as collagen fibers, preferably type III collagen fibers, elastin, glycosaminoglycans (GAGs), preferably hyaluronic acid, and proteoglycans synthesized by fibroblasts. Density can be measured, for example, in vivo and ex vivo (biopsy) using conventional methods, including ultrasound or confocal microscopy.

[0223] For the purposes of this invention, "elasticity" refers to the ability of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes to stretch, retract, and return to their original position following deformation (tension, compression). This property is altered by aging. It depends on the structure and functionality of elastic fibers (primarily elastin), as well as the regulation of associated proteins such as elafin.

[0224] Elasticity can be measured in vivo and ex vivo (biopsy) using conventional methods, and corresponds in particular to the parameters R2, R5, and R7 measured using a cutometer® (Hojan-Jezierska D et al, Journal of Face Aesthetics 2022;5(l)). Elasticity according to the invention can be measured in vitro by measuring elafin protein expression as described in Example 6.

[0225] The peptide according to the invention is therefore particularly useful for preventing and / or treating a loss of elasticity resulting from an intensification of the degradation of elastic fibers and / or a reduction in the expression of elafin, in particular its protein expression.

[0226] The peptide according to the invention, optionally in the form of its salts and / or derivatives, is useful and can therefore be used to improve and / or maintain the biomechanical properties of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, in particular by maintaining, improving and / or increasing collagen, preferably collagen fibers, preferably type III collagen fibers (Examples 2 and 3) and by maintaining and / or increasing the amount of elafin, in particular its protein expression (Example 6).

[0227] The applicant has shown that the peptide according to the invention is useful as an anti-glycation agent (example 5) which also contributes to maintaining the biomechanical properties of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0228] Maintaining a healthy hypodermis and proper functioning by the peptide according to the invention as demonstrated in Example 7 also contributes to good dermal quality and therefore to the biomechanical properties of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0229] The peptide according to the invention, possibly in the form of a cosmetic ingredient and / or cosmetic composition, in particular the derivative of general formula 2, is also useful for soothing healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0230] The term "soothing healthy skin and / or mucous membranes" refers to the ability to prevent and / or limit signs of discomfort in healthy skin and / or mucous membranes, particularly when they have been exposed to harsh agents, and / or to reduce these signs of discomfort. Signs of discomfort in healthy skin and / or mucous membranes include dryness, uneven skin tone (particularly redness), sensations of tightness, burning, heat, tingling, prickling, or tension, a rough texture, and / or a loss of softness to the touch.

[0231] The applicant has indeed shown that the peptide according to the invention has the property of reducing glycation (Example 5), which contributes to creating an inflammatory environment and is therefore useful for soothing healthy skin and / or mucous membranes. Furthermore, the peptide according to the invention, by stimulating the expression of elafin, helps to inhibit the activity of elastases, which create an inflammatory environment, and is therefore useful for soothing healthy skin and / or mucous membranes.

[0232] The peptide according to the invention has the advantage of respecting the skin and mucous membrane microbiota. Indeed, the applicant evaluated the effects of using the peptide at different dosages (5 pM, 1 pM, and 0 1 pM) on various bacterial strains, particularly staphylococci such as S. aureus, S. epidermidis, S. hominis, S. accolens, and S. acnes, but also lactobacilli such as L. crispatus, micrococcus such as M. iuteus, and Acinobacter such as A. iwoffiii, and demonstrated that the peptide according to the invention does not decrease bacterial viability and therefore helps maintain the balance of the skin microbiome. The peptide according to the invention, possibly in the form of a cosmetic ingredient and / or a cosmetic composition, particularly the derivative with general formula 2, is also useful for improving and / or maintaining healthy skin appendages.

[0233] According to the present invention, "improving and / or maintaining healthy skin appendages" means improving and / or maintaining the growth of healthy skin appendages, in particular keratin fibers, preferably hair, as well as the quality of the keratin material produced at the level of healthy skin appendages, in particular healthy keratin fibers, preferably healthy hair, and / or preventing and / or reducing the loss of healthy skin appendages, in particular keratin fibers, preferably hair.Through its properties on the architecture of the scalp skin, in particular on the dermis and hypodermis, and the reduction of pro-inflammatory stress of the scalp skin, notably by decreasing glycation, the peptide according to the invention makes it possible to improve the anchoring and / or structure and / or function of the hair follicle in order to limit hair loss, promote growth and increase the diameter and / or density and / or resistance of the keratin fibers produced, in particular the hair.

[0234] The peptide of SEQ ID No. 1, possibly in the form of one of its salts and / or one of its derivatives, advantageously the derivative of general formula 2, possibly in the form of the cosmetic or dermatological ingredient according to the invention, is intended to be used in the form of cosmetic or dermatological compositions.

[0235] The present invention therefore also relates to cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions which contain the peptide according to the invention.

[0236] The cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention further contain any suitable cosmetic and / or dermatological solvent and / or any suitable cosmetic and / or dermatological vehicle and / or any suitable cosmetic and / or dermatological excipient, possibly in combination with other compounds of interest.They may, in particular, contain a cosmetically or dermatologically suitable excipient and / or a cosmetically or dermatologically suitable vehicle selected from surfactants, preservatives, buffering agents, swelling agents, chelating agents, biocidal agents, denaturants, opacifying agents, pH adjusters, reducing agents, stabilizing agents, emulsifiers, thickeners, gelling agents, film-forming polymers, solvents, fillers, bactericides, odor absorbers, mattifying agents, conditioning agents, texturizing agents, gloss-enhancing agents, pigments, colorants, perfumes and chemical or mineral sunscreens, trace elements, essential oils, sweeteners, and flavor modifiers. These combinations are also covered by the present invention.The CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition (1992) describes various cosmetic and dermatological ingredients commonly used in the cosmetic and dermatological industry, which are particularly suited for topical administration.

[0237] Advantageously, the excipient(s) and / or vehicle(s) are chosen from the group comprising polyglycerols, esters, polymers and cellulose derivatives, lanolin derivatives, phospholipids, lactoferrins, lactoperoxidases, sucrose-based stabilizers, vitamin E and its derivatives, xanthan gums, natural and synthetic waxes, vegetable oils, triglycerides, unsaponifiables, phytosterols, silicones, protein hydrolysates, betaines, aminoxides, plant extracts, sucrose esters, titanium dioxide, glycines, and parabens, and preferably from the group consisting of steareth-2, steareth-21, glycol-15 stearyl ether, cetearyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, and methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, natural tocopherols, glycerin, dihydroxycetyl sodium phosphate,isopropyl hydroxycetyl ether, glycol stearate, triisononanoine, octyl cocoate, polyacrylamide, isoparaffin, laureth-7, a carbomer, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, bisabolol, a dimethicone, sodium hydroxide, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxysterate, caprylic / capric triglycerides, cetearyl octanoate, dibutyl adipate, grapeseed oil, jojoba oil, magnesium sulfate, EDTA, a cyclomethicone, xanthan gum, citric acid, sodium lauryl sulfate, waxes and mineral oils, isostearyl isostearate, propylene glycol dipelargonate, propylene glycol isostearate, PEG 8, beeswax, hydrogenated palm kernel oil glycerides, lanolin oil, sesame oil, cetyl lactate, lanolin alcohol, castor oil, titanium dioxide, lactose, sucrose, low-density polyethylene, isotonic saline solution,and their mixtures. The cosmetic or dermatological ingredient and the cosmetic or dermatological composition may be presented in all the galenic forms classically used for topical application, such as liquid or solid forms, or even as a pressurized liquid. They may, in particular, be formulated as a solution, aqueous or oily, a cream or aqueous gel or an oily gel, especially in a jar or tube, including a shower gel, shampoo, lotion, emulsion, hydrogel, microemulsion or nanoemulsion, including oil-in-water, water-in-oil, multiple, or silicone-based emulsion, a serum, a lotion, especially in a glass or plastic bottle or dosing bottle or aerosol, an ampoule, liquid soap, paste, dermatological bar, ointment, foam, aerosol, mask, patch, an anhydrous product, preferably liquid, paste, or solid.For example, in stick form or as powders, particularly makeup. Specifically, the composition is presented as a serum, lotion, cream, milk, ointment, paste, mousse, emulsion, hydrogel, shower gel, mask, stick, patch, or makeup powder, advantageously as a cream or lotion. Preferably, the composition is presented as a cream, lotion for the skin and / or hair, or shampoo, conditioner, rinse-off or leave-on.

[0238] The peptide according to the present invention has the advantage of not irritating and / or stripping the skin, mucous membranes and / or hair, allowing the maintenance of the microbiota and is particularly suitable for the care and / or treatment of sensitive and / or irritated skin and / or mucous membranes.

[0239] In the case of administration via the mucosal route, the cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention and / or the peptide according to the invention, possibly in the form of a cosmetic or dermatological ingredient, may be in the form of an eye drop, in particular an ophthalmic drop, a lotion, an aerosol, a gel, in particular an oral gel or a mucoadhesive composition.

[0240] The cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention may further comprise other cosmetic or dermatological ingredients active in the treatment of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or hair, in particular those inducing a complementary or synergistic effect with the peptide according to the invention. These may include, in particular, the following cosmetic and / or dermatological ingredients:

[0241] - ingredients that help prevent and / or combat the signs of aging of the skin and / or mucous membranes

[0242] - depigmenting agents and / or agents active on pigment spots

[0243] - ingredients that improve skin firmness and / or elasticity

[0244] - Metalloproteinase (MMP) inhibitor ingredients

[0245] - ingredients for treating sensitive skin and / or mucous membranes

[0246] - active ingredients for the scalp, anti-dandruff and / or active ingredients known to be anti-hair loss and / or stimulating hair growth

[0247] - the active ingredients on the microbial flora

[0248] - the active ingredients on the barrier function

[0249] - photoprotective ingredients, UVA and / or UVB filters and / or protection against pollution. Among the agents used to prevent and / or combat the signs of aging, we can mention the mixture of Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11 and Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9 described in patent application FR3076722A1 and marketed by the applicant under the name Replexium™, resveratrol, retinol, vitamin C, an agent stimulating fibronectin synthesis, in particular a maize extract, such an extract being marketed by the applicant under the name Deliner™; an agent stimulating laminin synthesis, in particular a biotechnologically modified malt extract, such an extract being marketed by the applicant under the name Basaline™; and a lipid synthesis stimulating agent such as a biotechnologically modified potato extract (soas tuberosum) marketed by the applicant under the name Lipidessence™;an agent stimulating the expression and / or activity of Hyaluronan synthase 2 (HAS2) such as the plant extracts described in patent application FR2 893 252 Al and in particular an aqueous extract of Galanga A / pinia ga / anga) marketed under the name Hyalufix™ by the applicant; an agent stimulating the synthesis of lysyl oxidase like (LOXL) such as those described in patent application FR2855968, and in particular a dill extract marketed under the name Lys'lastine™ by the applicant.;

[0250] For depigmenting agents, we can mention niacinamide or vitamin B3 and derivatives.

[0251] Among the active ingredients for improving skin firmness are the synthetic tetrapeptide marketed as Dermican™, an extract of Hibiscus Abe / moscus te™ described in the applicant's patent application filed under number FR0654316 and marketed as Linefactor™, a fibroblast growth-stimulating agent, for example, a fermented soy extract containing peptides, known as Phytokine™, marketed by the applicant and also described in patent application EPI 119344 B1 (Laboratoires Expanscience), a purified pea extract marketed as Proteasyl™, an extract of Manilkara multinervis marketed as Elestan™, an extract of Khaya senega / ensis marketed as Collalift™ 18, an Argan pulp extract marketed as Argassenal™, and an extract under the name Sqisandryl™ by the applicant, the peptide of SEQ ID No. 10: TVFDGVLRPGQL described in patent application FR3141066A1, an extract of NepheHum lappaceum marketed by the applicant under the name Nephoria™ and described in patent application FR3065876A1, as well as a mixture of the peptides palmitoyl tripeptide-1 and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 marketed under the name Matrixyl™ 3000 by Sederma.

[0252] Among the ingredients that inhibit metalloproteinases, we can mention those that inhibit MMPs 1, 2, 3, 9 in particular, such as retinoids and derivatives, oligopeptides and lipopeptides, lipoamino acids, and malt extract marketed by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France under the trade name Collalift®.

[0253] Among the active ingredients for sensitive skin, we will mention the deoiled ungerminated seed protein extract of Moringa oleifera marketed under the trade name Purisoft®, a plant extract of Cestrum latifolium marketed under the name Symbiocell ™, a butter extracted from the fruit of the Irvingia gabonensis tree marketed under the name Irwinol™, an extract of 'Eperua falcata' root marketed under the name Eperuline™, a peptide of SEQ ID No. 11: N-acetyl-L-Tyrosyl-L-Prolyl-L-Phenylalaninamide (INCI: Acetyl Tetrapeptide 15) marketed under the name Skinasensyl™, an extract of Inonotus obliquas marketed under the name Inolixir™ by the applicant.

[0254] Among the active ingredients on the scalp and / or keratin fibers, we can mention an extract of Cassia aiata leaves marketed under the name DN-Age™ as an antioxidant active ingredient for hair care; sarcosine marketed under the name Scalposine™ by the applicant and described in patent application FR3101776A1; the peptide marketed by the applicant under the name PeptAide™ 4.0 described in patent application FR3114744A1; an extract of Hippophae rhamnoides described in patent application FR3117372A1; an extract of Nepheiium iappaceum marketed by the applicant under the name Ram bu vital™ and described in patent application FR3076734; and the extract of Siiybum marianum to improve keratin fibers described in patent application FR3142088A1 and marketed under the name Kerasylium™.

[0255] Among the anti-hair loss ingredients, the following may be cited: a combination of sulfopeptides, amino acids, aminosaccharides, B vitamins, zinc, and / or extracts of Panax ginseng and Artium majus marketed under the name Trichogen™ LS 8960 by the applicant, and / or a hair-protecting agent such as an extract of Litchi chinensis pericarp marketed under the name Litchiderm™ by the applicant, and / or a soothing and anti-itch active ingredient such as rapeseed phytosterols marketed under the name Phytosoothe™ LS9766 by the applicant, and / or an active ingredient to strengthen the hair follicle such as an extract of Nepheiium iappaceum and / or minodoxil, valproic acid as marketed by Amorepacific, and / or stemoxidine, and / or aminoxil, and / or Hairgenyl as marketed by Silab, and / or Rednensyl (as marketed by Givaudan-Induchem) and / or Anagain (as marketed by Mibelle) and / or Baïcapil (as marketed by Provital),anti-dandruff active ingredients such as zinc pyrithione and / or octopirox and / or ketoconazole glycolipids extracted from yeast marketed by BASF under the name BioToLife and / or hexamidine diisethionate marketed under the name Elestab™ HP 100 and / or the complex containing an extract of Piper nigrum berries, an extract of 'Inga aiba' bark and sodium lauroyl lactylate marketed under the name Sanicapyl by the applicant, and / or anti-dandruff active ingredients such as piroctone olamine, in particular combined with salicylic acid.

[0256] These combinations of active ingredients with the peptide according to the invention are likely to strengthen the hair follicle and thus help to reduce the loss of keratin fibers, preferentially of hair.

[0257] The peptide according to the present invention may also be used in combination with ingredients active on the cutaneous and / or mucosal microbial flora and / or active on the skin barrier function, in particular moisturizing and / or soothing agents, including an oligosaccharide obtained by enzymatic synthesis marketed by Solabia under the name BioEcolia™ or an alpha-glucohydrate complex marketed by the same company under the name Ecoskin™, an extract of Alisma plantago-aquatica, an extract of Argania spinosa (Lipofructyl™ Argan), a mixture of ceramides (Sphingoceryl™ VEG), purifying extracts of Boido (Beta pur™), products based on inulin or fructooligosaccharides, extracts of bifidobacteria, an extract of Pueraria iobata root marketed under the name Inhipase™ by the applicant,a beta-glucan derivative from baker's yeast marketed by Mibelle under the name CM-Glucan Forte™ and / or an extract of Mirabilis jaiapa marketed under the name Pacifeel™ by Sederma, a polysaccharide extracted from Cassia angustifoiia seeds marketed under the name Hyalurosmooth™ by the applicant, or an agent selected from one of the combinations containing pullulan, sodium hyaluronate and sodium alginate marketed under the name PatcH2O™ by the applicant and described in patent application FR2994387A1, a pericarp extract of Litchi chinensis marketed under the name Litchiderm™ by the applicant, a natural honey extract marketed by the applicant under the name Melhydran™, a flax extract marketed under the name Oligolin™ by the applicant, a yeast extract modified by biotechnology and marketed by the applicant under the name Relipidium™ and described in patent application FR3055799,an extract of Nepheiium iappaceum marketed by the applicant under the name Nephydrat™ and described in patent application FR3069779A1;

[0258] Among the photoprotective active ingredients or UVA and / or UVB filters usable according to the present invention in combination with the peptide according to the invention, we may mention photoprotective agents active in UV-A and / or UV-B, such as para-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, in particular "UVINUL P25" by BASF, salicylic derivatives, in particular homosalate alone or in combination with titanium oxides, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, cinnamic derivatives, diphenyl acrylate derivatives, including Octocrylene sold in particular under the trade name "UVINUL N539" by BASF, benzophenone derivatives, in particular Benzophenone-1 sold in particular under the trade name "UVINUL 400" by BASF, benzylidene camphor derivatives, benzimidazole derivatives, triazine derivatives, including Ethylhexyl triazone sold in particular under the trade name "UVINUL T150" by BASF, benzotriazole derivatives, anthranilic derivatives,Imidazoline derivatives, benzalmalonate derivatives, 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

[0259] Among the protective agents against pollution, we can mention an extract of leaves of Argania spinosa marketed under the name Arganyl™ by the applicant or an extract of seeds of Moringa oleifera marketed under the name Purisoft™ by the applicant or an extract of root of Eperua falcata marketed under the name Eperuline™ by the applicant.

[0260] The peptide according to the invention is particularly suitable for use on all types of skin, mucous membranes and / or skin appendages, including Caucasian, Asian, African and in particular on all skin types.

[0261] It is particularly suitable for masking the first unsightly signs of aging in healthy skin, especially the first expression lines and / or for healthy skin considered mature, i.e. men or women aged at least 50, especially menopausal women.

[0262] The peptide according to the invention, optionally in the form of its salts and / or derivatives, preferably the derivative with general formula 2, is particularly suitable for the care of sensitive and / or sensitized, fragile, weakened, and / or atopic-prone skin and / or mucous membranes. The peptide according to the invention is thus particularly useful for treating the unsightly and / or unpleasant and / or uncomfortable manifestations of sensitive and / or sensitized, fragile, weakened, and / or atopic-prone skin and / or mucous membranes.

[0263] In general, "sensitive skin and / or mucous membranes" can be defined as healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes which, by nature, tolerate very few aggressive agents.

[0264] Sensitive skin is not pathological, unlike allergic skin. However, it can react to aggressive agents and / or conditions with unsightly, unpleasant, and / or uncomfortable cutaneous and / or mucosal manifestations such as dryness, uneven skin tone, redness, tightness, tingling, prickling, stinging, tension, heat, or burning, a rough texture, and / or loss of softness to the touch. Therefore, the "sensitive skin" characteristic can be assessed by the individual themselves through subjective skin sensations or by a dermatologist through objective skin reactions.

[0265] Unsightly, unpleasant, and / or uncomfortable symptoms can be generalized to the entire body, but most of the time they can be located in well-defined areas such as the scalp, the face (particularly around the lips and / or eyes) and the forehead, skin folds, the buttocks in infants, etc. These areas can therefore be sensitive to skin and / or mucous membranes.

[0266] Similarly, "sensitized skin and / or mucous membranes" are healthy skin and / or mucous membranes made sensitive momentarily and therefore not pathological as such.

[0267] "Fragile or weakened skin and / or mucous membranes (i.e., temporarily fragile)" refers to healthy skin and / or mucous membranes whose barrier function is compromised. This condition can be related to the individual's health and / or age, with the elderly and infants, for example, having fragile skin. It can also result from chemical or physical aggressions such as abrasion, friction, cuts, tattoos, and laser treatments.

[0268] "Atopic-prone skin and / or mucous membranes" refers to healthy skin and / or mucous membranes that are extremely fragile and / or weakened, with increased permeability due to a compromised barrier function. This skin is genetically predisposed to develop, under the influence of multiple intrinsic and extrinsic factors, into the pathological condition of atopic dermatitis. Therefore, the "atopic-prone skin" characteristic can be assessed by the individual themselves through subjective skin sensations or by a dermatologist through objective skin reactions.

[0269] The uncomfortable and / or unpleasant and / or unsightly manifestations of sensitized, fragile and / or weakened skin and / or mucous membranes are the same as for sensitive skin and / or mucous membranes, without these manifestations and / or skin conditions being related to the prevention and / or treatment of a pathology.

[0270] The peptide according to the invention is useful for soothing such unsightly and / or unpleasant and / or uncomfortable manifestations of sensitive skin and / or mucous membranes and thus providing real comfort to sensitive skin and / or mucous membranes.

[0271] The peptide according to the invention, preferably the derivative with general formula 2, is also suitable for the care of normal, oily, dry, and blemish-prone skin, and in particular acne-prone and acne-prone skin. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic care and / or treatment method comprising the topical application, particularly daily, to at least one area of ​​healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes and / or healthy hair, of the peptide according to the invention and / or a cosmetic ingredient comprising it according to the invention and / or a cosmetic composition comprising it according to the invention, in order to improve the condition and / or appearance and / or comfort of the area of ​​healthy skin, and / or healthy mucous membranes and / or healthy hair, in particular hair.

[0272] The method according to the present invention may include the preliminary step of identifying the area of ​​healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membrane and / or healthy hair whose condition and / or appearance and / or comfort is to be or is to be improved, in particular an area of ​​healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membrane and / or healthy hair on which / in which it is desired:

[0273] - to increase the amount of collagen, particularly type III collagen, including its synthesis, and / or the quantity and / or quality of collagen fibers and / or to decrease the amount of damaged collagen, and / or

[0274] -increase keratinocyte proliferation and / or keratinocyte adhesion to the dermis, and / or

[0275] - to increase the thickness, particularly of the hypodermis, dermis and / or epidermis, and / or

[0276] - reduce wrinkles, particularly their maximum and average depth, especially wrinkles under the eyes, and / or

[0277] - reduce glycation, and / or

[0278] - increase the amount of elafin, in particular its expression, and / or

[0279] - improve the healthy hypodermis and / or increase and / or prevent the decrease of subcutaneous fat, in particular increase the expression of Livel, Proxl, PLN1, and / or FabP4 proteins.

[0280] Advantageously, the invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method for improving the condition and / or appearance and / or comfort of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes and / or healthy hair and nails of an individual who needs / desires it, comprising the steps:

[0281] - identification on the individual of an area of ​​healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes and / or healthy hair and nails, the condition and / or appearance and / or comfort of which should be or is to be improved, in particular an area of ​​healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes and / or healthy hair and nails on which / in which it is desired to increase the quantity of collagen, in particular type III collagen, including its synthesis, and / or the quantity and / or quality of collagen fibers and / or decrease the quantity of damaged collagen, and / or increase the proliferation of keratinocytes in the skin and / or mucous membranes and the adhesion of keratinocytes to the dermis, and / or increase the thickness of the skin and / or mucous membranes, including the dermis, hypodermis and / or epidermis and / or decrease wrinkles, in particular their maximum and average depth, especially wrinkles under the eyes, and / or decrease glycation, and / or increase the quantity of elafin,in particular its expression in the skin and / or mucous membranes, and / or improve the hypodermis and / or increase and / or prevent the decrease of subcutaneous fat, in particular increase the expression of the proteins Livel, Proxl, PLN1, and / or FabP4, and,

[0282] - topical application to this area of ​​healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes and / or healthy hair and nails, of the peptide according to the invention, preferably of the derivative of general formula 2, and / or of the cosmetic ingredient and / or of a cosmetic composition containing it in an amount effective to improve the condition and / or appearance and / or comfort of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes and / or healthy hair and nails, in particular in a peptide content between lxl0' 6 % and 0.1% by weight, preferably of lxl0' 5 % to lxl0' 2 % by weight, still advantageously of lxl0' 4 % to lxl0' 3 % by weight, in particular of 2xl0' 4% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0283] Advantageously, the peptide according to the invention, preferably in the form of the cosmetic composition, is applied daily to the healthy skin, healthy mucous membranes and / or healthy hair to be treated, preferably twice a day, for a period of at least 28 days, preferably for 56 days.

[0284] The present invention also relates to the SEQ ID No. 1 peptide and / or one of its salts and / or one of its derivatives, preferably the derivative of general formula 2 according to the present invention, alone or in the form of a dermatological ingredient according to the invention and / or in a dermatological composition according to the invention, for its use by topical application:

[0285] - to repair the skin and / or mucous membranes, in particular to repair wounds and / or other superficial injuries such as canker sores, and / or to improve healing, in particular for the treatment and / or prevention of scars, especially pathological scars, and / or

[0286] - to prevent and / or treat skin inflammations, particularly of the scalp, and / or mucous membrane inflammations, such as dermatitis and erythema, especially sunburn, diaper rash, and / or gingivitis and / or

[0287] - to prevent and / or treat alopecia,

[0288] - to prevent and / or treat elastosis, particularly solar elastosis, and / or - to prevent and / or treat acne.

[0289] Indeed, the peptide reduces glycation in the skin and mucous membranes (example 5), which helps to decrease and / or prevent inflammation in the skin and / or mucous membranes, as well as all pathologies with a cutaneous and / or mucosal inflammatory component, such as dermatitis and erythema, particularly sunburn, diaper rash, and / or gingivitis and acne. This reduction and / or prevention of inflammation, particularly in the scalp, helps to limit hair loss, and therefore the peptide can be used to prevent and / or treat alopecia, especially that caused by and / or accompanied by scalp inflammation.

[0290] Due to its properties in stimulating the proliferation of keratinocytes and their adhesion to the dermis (example 4), the peptide according to the invention is particularly useful for repairing the skin and / or mucous membranes.

[0291] The SEQ ID No. 1 peptide, possibly in the form of its salts and derivatives according to the present invention, is particularly suitable for use alone or as a dermatological ingredient and / or dermatological composition in the treatment and / or care of skin, particularly scalp and / or mucous membranes, that is inflamed, atopic, reactive, damaged and / or irritated.

[0292] The term "reactive skin and / or mucous membranes" refers to skin and / or mucous membranes whose tolerance threshold has decreased and which react excessively. This includes skin and / or mucous membranes described as intolerant, irritable, or allergic.

[0293] The term “atopic skin and / or mucous membrane” refers to skin and / or mucous membrane affected by the pathology of atopic dermatitis.

[0294] The characteristics "reactive skin and / or mucous membrane" and "atopic skin and / or mucous membrane" can be assessed by the dermatologist with objective skin reactions.

[0295] The dermatological composition preferably contains the peptide according to the invention in a peptide content between lxl0' 6 % and 0.1% by weight, preferably of lxl0' 5 % to lxlO' 2 % by weight, still advantageously 5xl0' 5 % to 2xl0' 3 % by weight, in particular lxlO' 4 % to lxlO' 3 % by weight, advantageously 2xl0' 4 % by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0296] Other objects, features, and advantages of the invention will become clear to those skilled in the art upon reading the explanatory description, which refers to examples given solely by way of illustration and which shall in no way limit the scope of the invention. The examples form an integral part of the present invention, and any feature that appears new compared to any prior art, as considered from the description taken as a whole, including the examples, forms an integral part of the invention in its function and generality.

[0297] Thus, each example has a general scope.

[0298] On the other hand, in the examples, and unless otherwise indicated, temperature is expressed in degrees Celsius, percentages in w / w and pressure is atmospheric pressure.

[0299] EXAMPLES

[0300] Example 1: Synthesis of the peptide according to the invention. a) Synthesis of the SEP IP No. 1 peptide derivative with an acetyl function at the N-terminus and an amide function at the C-terminus, of general formula 2:

[0301] The peptide according to the invention was obtained by solid-phase chemical synthesis at a purity of 98.8% determined by HPLC-UV. The identity of the peptide according to the invention was confirmed by spectroscopy (LC-ESI-MS for Liquid Chromatography-Electrospray Ionization-Mass Spectrometry) by the mass spectrum of the peptide showing a peak of m / z 954.7 [M+3H]3+.

[0302] The peptide is the preferred derivative of formula 2:

[0303] CH3-C(=O)-GPP-GPP-GPP-GPO-GFOGER- GPO-GPP-GPP-GFF-NH2

[0304] It has a molecular weight of 2861g / mol

[0305] The amino acid O designates proline modified in the form of (2S,4R)-4-hydroxyproline (4-Hyp).

[0306] Such a peptide can also be written according to the following general formula 2:

[0307] CH3- C(=O)- (Gly-Pro-Pro)3 -Gly-Pro-Hyp- Gly- Phe -Hyp - Gly- Glu- Arg - Gly-Pro-Hyp -(Gly- Pro-Pro)2 - Gly- Phe -Phe -NH2 lb) Synthesis of the SEO IP N°1 peptide derivative

[0308] The peptide according to the invention was obtained by solid-phase chemical synthesis at a purity of 96.9%, as determined by HPLC-UV. The identity of the peptide according to the invention was confirmed by spectroscopy (LC-ESI-MS for Liquid Chromatography-Electrospray Ionization-Mass Spectrometry) by the mass spectrum of the peptide, which includes a peak at m / z 940.8 [M+3H]3+.

[0309] The peptide is that of SEQ ID No. 1:

[0310] GPP-GPP-GPP-GPO-GFOGER-GPO-GPP-GPP-GFF

[0311] It has a molecular weight of: 2818 g / mol The amino acid O designates proline modified in the form of (2S,4R)-4-hydroxyproline (4-Hyp).

[0312] Such a peptide can also be written according to the following general formula 1:

[0313] (Gly-Pro-Pro)3 -Gly-Pro-Hyp- Gly- Phe -Hyp - Gly- Glu- Arg - Gly-Pro-Hyp -(Gly-Pro-Pro)? - Gly-Phe-Phe

[0314] Example 2: Evaluation of the ability of the peptide according to the invention to bind to denatured collagen (gelatin)

[0315] Principle: The test used is that described in the publication Bennick et al., 2018 (Biomaterials, Volume 183, November 2018, Pages 67-76), in which the concentrations of different gelatin solutions, EDC (1-ethyl-3-(3-dimethylaminopropyl)carbodiimide hydrochloride) / NHS (N-hydroxysulfosuccinimide), were modified, and a bovine serum albumin (BSA) solution was used to saturate the nonspecific binding sites. This test consists of coating a plate with a denatured collagen solution (porcine gelatin), then adding the peptides to be tested, previously grafted with a fluorescent probe (carboxyfluorescein) coupled to a spacer (GGG), then performing several rinses, and finally measuring the residual fluorescence. The higher the fluorescence, the more the tested product has bound and been fixed to the denatured collagen (gelatin).

[0316] Protocol

[0317] A gelatin solution (Sigma, G2500) was prepared at 100 pg / ml (w / v) in phosphate-buffered saline (PBS) at 60 °C. ImM magnesium chloride and ImM calcium chloride were added after the gelatin had dissolved. 600 µL of this mixture was loaded into each well and incubated at room temperature for 1 h to allow gelation. The thin gelatin hydrogel films were then crosslinked with 120 µL of a 2-(N-morpholino)ethanosulfonic acid (MES) buffered solution (pH 5.5, 100 µL / well) containing 60 mM NHS and 150 mM EDC, for 1 h at room temperature. The crosslinked gelatin films were washed three times with 1 mL of TBST2 (Tris BupH® buffered saline, Thermo Scientific, containing ImM manganese chloride). 1.2 mL of 1% (w / v) BSA solution prepared in TBST2 was added to each well, and the plate was incubated for 30 minutes at room temperature.Each well was then rinsed three times with 1 mL of TBST2. The peptides to be tested were obtained by chemical synthesis. The peptide according to the invention was obtained according to example (a). A 400 pL solution of PBS (phosphate-buffered saline) containing each peptide N-terminally grafted with carboxyfluorescein (CF) coupled with a spacer (GGG) (except for GFOGER) at a concentration of 20 pM was then added to each well and left for 24 hours at 32°C and protected from light to allow product fixation. The solutions containing the different products to be tested were applied directly to each well at room temperature without preconditioning. After this period, each well was washed three times with 1 mL of TBST2 at room temperature and then 0.5 mL of TBST2 was added to each well for fluorescence reading (ex: 493 nm, em: 517 nm) measured with a microplate reader (VARIOSKAN LUX).One well per condition was performed, and fluorescence readings were taken from each well (n=27). Statistical analysis of the data was performed using SigmaPlot software (version 12.5), according to the Mann-Whitney U test, and the significance level was set at 5% (p<0.05). Results are presented as mean ± SEM (standard error of the mean).

[0318] Fluorescence is expressed in arbitrary units.

[0319] Results :

[0320] Table 2 - Gelatin binding test (denatured collagen)

[0321] Conclusion: The peptide with the sequence (GPP)3-GPO-GFOGER-GPO-(GPP)2-GFF-NH2 (SEQ ID No. 1) shows a superior ability to bind to denatured collagen (p<0.001) compared to the GFOGER sequence (SEQ ID No. 6) alone and compared to (GPP)5-GFOGER-(GPP)5-NH2 (SEQ ID No. 8) (p<0.001) and (GPP)3-GFOGER-(GPP)3-NH2 (SEQ ID No. 7) (p<0.001). Thus, the peptide according to the invention has the property of binding more strongly than the GFOGER sequence (SEQ ID No. 6) alone and the peptides explicitly described in the prior art.

[0322] This test thus helps to demonstrate that the peptide according to the invention is useful for preventing and / or reducing the signs of aging of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, improving the architecture of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, preventing and / or treating unsightly marks on healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, improving and / or maintaining the biomechanical properties of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes and / or improving and / or maintaining healthy hair, by improving their anchoring in the better quality dermis.

[0323] Example 3: Evaluation of the activity of the peptide according to the invention on the stimulation of collagen III synthesis in reconstructed dermis

[0324] Reconstructed human dermis matured for 28 days was obtained after seeding fibroblasts from a donor (18-year-old woman) onto an acellular matrix made of collagen, chitosan, and glucosaminoglycan (GAG) (Mimedisc®) and cultured in a specific cell growth medium, DMEM (Dulbecco's Modified Eagle Medium) / F12, containing 10% fetal bovine serum (v / v) and antibiotics. The culture medium was renewed every two days, and the following conditions were tested (3 reconstructed dermis / condition):

[0325] - An untreated control (NT) group consisted of reconstructed dermis cultures maintained in the aforementioned medium without any further treatment.

[0326] - For treatments with the active ingredient: the peptide obtained according to example a) is solubilized to 100 pM in water, then this stock peptide solution is diluted to 20 pM in water before being applied to the reconstructed dermis at a concentration of 0.4 pM. Treatments with the peptide were performed every 2 days, from day 7 to day 28.

[0327] Collagen III expression in reconstructed human dermis was assessed by immunostaining and quantified by image analysis. 10 µm tissue cryosections were fixed with acetone at -20°C for 10 minutes and then treated with 2% (v / v) sheep serum for 2 hours at room temperature. After washing, the sections were incubated with an anti-collagen III antibody (Invitrogen) for 2 hours at room temperature. Secondary antibodies were then applied (Thermofisher). Finally, the slides were mounted with a specific medium (VECTASHIELD antifade) containing DAPI (4',6-diamidino-2-phenylindole) for nuclear staining and then analyzed by fluorescence microscopy (LEICA SP8).

[0328] Collagen III expression was quantified by image analysis using FIJI software (Image J2, open source). Results are presented as mean ± SEM (standard error of the mean). A total of 9 images were acquired per condition (3 reconstructed dermis / condition and 3 images / reconstructed dermis).

[0329] Statistical analysis of the data was performed using SigmaPlot software (version 12.5). A two-tailed test was used to compare the post-treatment data with the untreated control. The significance level was set at 5% (p<0.05). Results:

[0330] Table 3 - Synthesis of collagen III on reconstructed dermis

[0331] Conclusion: The peptide according to the invention significantly stimulated the synthesis of type III collagen. This demonstrates the property of the peptide according to the invention to stimulate the synthesis of type III collagen and therefore to improve the dermis and thus prevent and / or reduce the signs of aging of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, improve the architecture of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, prevent and / or treat unsightly marks of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, in particular those due to depression and / or sagging of the dermis, improve and / or maintain the biomechanical properties of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, and / or improve and / or maintain healthy hair and nails.

[0332] Example 4: Evaluation of the activity of the peptide according to the invention on the proliferation of keratinocytes in the neo-epidermis

[0333] Principle: The objective of the study was to evaluate the activity of the peptide according to the invention on the proliferation of keratinocytes in the neo-epidermis and the adhesion of keratinocytes to the dermis and therefore on the healing of wounds using human skin expiants maintained in survival.

[0334] Protocol:

[0335] A 0.8 mL aliquot of a 100 pM aqueous stock solution of the peptide obtained according to example (a) is diluted in 99.2 mL of saline in Dulbecco's phosphate buffer (DPBS). The resulting solution has a molarity of 0.8 pM. This is the concentration tested for the peptide.

[0336] Rectangular excipients were prepared from abdominoplasty tissue from a 49-year-old woman with phototype II (according to the Fitzpatrick skin type classification). The excipients were maintained in culture medium suitable for explant culture at 37°C in a humid atmosphere with 5% CO2. At baseline (day 0.00), two lesions per excipient were created using a 3.5 mm diameter biopsy punch, deep enough to remove the epidermis and the superficial dermis. The lesions were made immediately before product application.

[0337] At 0.8 pM peptide solution (J2, J5, J7), the 0.8 pM peptide solution was applied topically at a rate of 3 pL per expiant and spread using a small spatula (n=3 expiants per condition). The culture medium was halved on J2, J5, and J7. Injured expiants without peptide solution application (untreated controls, "NT") served as controls for analyzing the results on J5 and J8.

[0338] At 0.08, 0.5, and 0.8, the excipients were collected and placed in a buffered formaldehyde solution. 24 h later, the samples were dehydrated and embedded in paraffin. 5 µm thick sections were prepared with a microtome and then mounted on histological glass slides.

[0339] The appearance of the synthesized neo-epidermis was assessed by microscopic observation of skin sections after Masson's trichrome staining (Leica DMLB microscope coupled with an Olympus DP scanning device). Four images per expiant were analyzed using dedicated software (CellSens Software).

[0340] The overall morphology of the neo-epidermis formed following the injury was assessed based on the number of cell layers (correlated with good proliferation) of the synthesized neo-epidermis. The adhesion of keratinocytes from the neo-epidermis to the dermis was visually assessed by microscopic evaluation using a rating scale of 0 to 5, with 0 representing no adhesion and 5 representing very strong adhesion.

[0341] For each criterion, the higher the score, the more the analyzed parameter is increased or improved.

[0342] A score higher than the score of the untreated control (NT) at the same observation time shows a healing activity of the tested peptide.

[0343] Results

[0344] Table 4 - Qualitative morphological analysis of neo-epidermis formed on the injured area

[0345] Conclusion: This test demonstrates that the peptide according to the invention rapidly increases the proliferation of keratinocytes in the neo-epidermis as well as the adhesion of keratinocytes to the dermis, which generally contributes to the renewal and regeneration of the epidermis, maintaining its good condition and repairing it when damaged. This test further demonstrates that the peptide according to the invention, through its healing activity, allows the repair of damaged epidermis, thus preventing the formation of unsightly scars. This therefore demonstrates that the peptide according to the invention is useful for preventing and / or reducing the signs of aging in healthy skin and / or mucous membranes, improving the architecture of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes, in particular regenerating them, and preventing and / or treating unsightly marks on healthy skin and / or mucous membranes.

[0346] Furthermore, the peptide according to the invention exhibits wound healing activity, based on processes of keratinocyte proliferation and keratinocyte adhesion to the dermis.

[0347] Example 5: Evaluation of the anti-calcification activity of the peptide according to the invention

[0348] Objective: The objective of the study was to evaluate the anti-glycation activity of the peptide according to the invention in a model composed of explants of devitalized whole human skin.

[0349] Protocol: Whole-skin expiants, 5 mm in diameter, were used as substrates for the glycation reaction. The skin was obtained from an abdominal plastic surgery procedure performed on a 43-year-old woman. These expiants were first subjected to four successive freeze / thaw cycles to eliminate any trace of enzymes that could interfere with the glycation reaction. They were then incubated for 14 days at 45°C in the absence or presence of 60 mM ribose, and in the absence or presence of the peptide obtained according to example (a) at different concentrations, while being protected from the atmosphere and light. The untreated control (NT) represents the result of the experiment conducted with 60 mM ribose but without the addition of the peptide being tested. The peptide obtained according to example (a) was solubilized to 100 pM in water and then diluted in the expiant incubation buffer (PBS buffer) to the desired concentration. Three expiators are tested per condition.

[0350] At the end of the incubation stage, the glycated proteins of the skin expiants were quantified using a colorimetric method (Kobayashi K and Igimi H, Biol. Pharm. Bull, 19 (4) 487-490 (1996)).

[0351] Statistical analysis of the data was performed using a one-way ANOVA (analysis of variance) followed by a Holm-Sidak test. The significance level was set at 5% (p<0.05). Results:

[0352] Table 5 - Inhibition of glycation on devitalized skin expiants

[0353] Conclusion: The peptide according to the invention strongly and significantly inhibits the glycation reaction. This demonstrates that the peptide according to the invention is useful for preventing and / or reducing the signs of aging in healthy skin and / or mucous membranes, improving the architecture of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes, including regenerating them, preventing and / or treating unsightly marks on healthy skin and / or mucous membranes, improving and / or maintaining the biomechanical properties of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes, soothing healthy skin and / or mucous membranes, and / or improving and / or maintaining healthy hair, nails, and skin.

[0354] Example 6: Evaluation of the anti-elastase activity of the peptide according to the invention

[0355] Objective: The objective was to evaluate the anti-elastase activity of the peptide according to the invention by measuring the stimulation of the synthesis and release of elafin on skin expiants in ex vivo culture.

[0356] Protocol: A quantity of 0.8 ml of an aqueous stock solution containing the peptide obtained according to example a) at 100 pM is diluted in 99.8 ml of DPBS (Gibco's Dulbecco's Phosphate-Buffered Saline™).

[0357] Whole-skin excipients of 8 mm diameter were prepared from abdominal plastic surgery performed on a 58-year-old woman. They were incubated for 48 hours in the absence (untreated control "NT") or in the presence of the solution containing the peptide at 0.8 pM (3 excipients per condition). A 20 pL quantity of the solution containing the product to be tested was applied topically to the biopsy via blotting paper placed on the surface of the biopsies. At the end of the incubation period (48 h), the supernatants were removed and analyzed.

[0358] Cell viability was assessed using a spectrocolorimetric method based on the measurement of alkaline phosphatase activity. This analysis is based on the following principle: the substrate p-nitrophenyl phosphate is converted to p-nitrophenol by intracellular alkaline phosphatase in viable cells. The absorbance of p-nitrophenol measured at 405 nm is directly proportional to the number of viable cells in the expiry samples (Yang et al., 1996).

[0359] Elafin release was quantified in the supernatants using an ELISA kit. Results are expressed as pg / ml of elafin, reported at the viability level and normalized to the untreated control (mean ± SD). Statistical analysis was performed using Student's t-test. The significance level was set at 5% (p < 0.05).

[0360] Results:

[0361] Table 6 - Determination of elafin content in the culture medium

[0362] Conclusion: The peptide according to the invention significantly stimulates the protein expression of elafin and therefore its synthesis (+47.9%), which demonstrates that the peptide according to the invention has anti-elastase activity, elafin protecting elastic fibers against their degradation by elastases and therefore useful for maintaining the elasticity of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.Thus, this test demonstrates that the peptide according to the invention is useful for preventing and / or reducing the signs of aging of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, for improving the architecture of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, in particular regenerating them and increasing their thickness, preventing and / or treating unsightly marks on healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, improving and / or maintaining the biomechanical properties of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, in particular elasticity, and / or soothing healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, and / or improving and / or maintaining healthy hair and nails.

[0363] Example 7: Evaluation of the activity of the peptide according to the invention on subcutaneous fat

[0364] Objective: The objective of this study was to evaluate the effect of the peptide according to the invention on an ex vivo model of vascularized human adipose tissue stressed by TNFα-induced inflammation and thus determine the impact of the peptide according to the invention on lymphatic networks, as well as on the function of adipocytes and therefore the quality of the hypodermis.

[0365] Protocol: A 0.8 mL aliquot of an aqueous stock solution containing the peptide obtained according to example (a) at 100 pM was diluted in 99.2 mL of basal medium (EGM base medium supplemented with 2% (v / v) fetal bovine serum (FBS), 22.5 pg / mL heparin, and 1 pg / mL ascorbic acid) containing TNFα at a dose sufficient to induce inflammation-mimicking stress, resulting in a significant increase in the expression of LUVE1, PROXI, PLN1, and / or FabP4 proteins. The peptide solution had a molarity of 0.8 pM. In parallel, basal medium lacking TNFα and peptide (NT control) and basal medium containing TNFα (TNFα stress control) were tested.

[0366] Vascularized models of human subcutaneous adipose tissue were generated from fresh liposuction material obtained from a donor. Centrifugation was then performed to separate the adipose tissue fractions and cells. The cellular fraction, containing a population of highly proliferative stem cells, was purified (blood removed). Meanwhile, the adipose tissue fraction was mechanically dissociated using a medical device to reduce its size and obtain lobular structures. Finally, the cell and tissue fractions (= adipocyte preparation) were mixed and incubated at 37°C, 5% CO2 in EGM Plus medium for at least 2 weeks before processing.

[0367] On day 0 (J0), 50 mg of adipocyte preparation was encapsulated in agarose and then loaded into each well of a 24-well plate; 1 mL of basal medium (containing or not TNFα and the α peptide) was added. The medium containing the products to be tested was renewed every 2 to 3 days for 10 days. The number of replicates per condition was set at n=5.

[0368] On day 10, cell viability was checked using a commercially available XTT test kit (Roche), following the manufacturer's instructions.

[0369] On day 10, total RNA was extracted from n=4 replicas for each group using a commercially available RNA extraction kit (Zymoclean Gel RNA Recovery kit, Ozyme), following the manufacturer's instructions. A reverse transcription-polymerase chain reaction (RT-qPCR) assay was performed on each duplicate replica (n=8 values ​​per condition). The expression of the following human genes was analyzed by real-time PCR using the StepOne Plus system from Applied Biosystems in all replicas. The sequences of the primers used were as follows: hLYVE-1 Fw 5'-AATTTCACAGAAGCTAAGGAGGC-3' (SEQ ID No. 14), Rv 5'- TCAAGGCTGTTTCAACTTGGTC-3' (SEQ ID No. 15) hPROX-1 Fw 5'-CCAAGGTTCAGAGCAGGATG-3' (SEQ ID No. 16), Rv 5'- CATGGCATCTTCATACGAGTTC-3' (SEQ ID No. 17) hPLNl Fw 5'-ACCATCTCCACCCGCCTC-3' (SEQ ID No. 18), Rv 5'-GATGGGAACGCTGATGCTGT-3' (SEQ ID No. 19) hFABP4 Fw 5'-TGGGCCAGGAATTTGACGAA-3' (SEQ ID No. 20), Rv 5'-

[0370] GCGAACTTCAGTCCAGGTCA-3' (SEQ ID No. 21)

[0371] The statistical analysis of the data was carried out using SigmaPlot software (version 12.5).

[0372] A Student's t-test or Mann-Whitney U test was used to compare the post-treatment data with the stressed control. The significance level was set at 5% (p<0.05).

[0373] The results are presented as a mean percentage relative to the control with TNFa stress ± standard error of the mean (SEM).

[0374] Results: Cell viability was controlled for all experimental conditions and treatment with the peptide had no impact on this parameter.

[0375] Table 7.1 - Mean expression of perilipin (PLN1) with n= 6 (3 adipocyte models per condition and n=2 replicates per model) Table 7.2 Mean expression of Fatty Acid-Binding Protein 4 (FabP4) (n= 3 to 4 adipocyte models / condition and n=2 replicates / models) Table 7.3 Mean expression of Lymphatic vessel endothelial hyaluronan receptor 1

[0376] (Lyvel) (n= 3 to 4 adipocyte models per condition and n=2 replicates per model)

[0377] Table 7.4 Mean expression of Prospero homeobox gene 1 (Proxl) (n= 3 to 4 adipocyte models per condition and n=2 replicates per model)

[0378] According to the results presented in Table 7, the addition of TNFa led to a significant decrease in the basal expressions of LPN1, FabP4, Lyvel and Proxl.

[0379] The peptide according to the invention, at a concentration of 0.8 pM, restored the expression of LPN1, FabP4, Lyvel, Proxl to a level similar to their baseline levels before TNFa stress, and did so significantly.

[0380] The effect of the peptide according to the invention was far superior on all the targets tested to the effect obtained with dexamethasone, an anti-inflammatory tested as a positive control at a dose of 100 pM. Dexamethasone did not induce any compensation for the negative effect of TNFα on the expression of the Lyvel and Proxl targets, unlike the peptide according to the invention.

[0381] This test demonstrates that the peptide according to the invention contributes to maintaining a healthy hypodermis and, in particular, restores the expression levels of markers related to the function of adipocytes and lymphatic networks stressed by TNFα. Thus, the peptide maintains and compensates for the effect of stress on lipid storage and protection against lipases (via PLN1), on lipid metabolism under inflammatory conditions (via FabP4), and on lymphatic vessels (Lyvel, Proxl). The peptide according to the invention prevents subcutaneous fat loss and is therefore useful for preventing and / or reducing the signs of aging in healthy skin and / or mucous membranes, improving the architecture of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes, in particular increasing their thickness, and / or improving and / or maintaining the biomechanical properties of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes, and / or improving and / or maintaining healthy hair, nails, and skin appendages.

[0382] Example 8: Evaluation of the effect of the peptide according to the invention on the thickness of the epidermis

[0383] Protocol:

[0384] Reconstructed skin is created using cells from the foreskin of a 3-year-old Asian donor. Four samples for each condition are cultured in a microfluidic device with a flow rate of 1 pL per minute.

[0385] The dermis is obtained after 4 days of culture in a fibrin gel, followed by keratinocyte seeding and a 48-hour proliferation phase before the models are transferred to the air-liquid phase for 14 days. During the last 7 days, an aging cocktail is added to the culture medium via systemic application, except for the unstressed control. This mixture of pro-inflammatory compounds may include TNFα, dTFNγ, and Poly I:C, and / or cortisol in sufficient quantities to mimic inflammatory stress, resulting in a significant decrease in epidermal thickness. Also, from day 7 of air-liquid culture until day 14 (when culture is stopped), for each condition, 10 pL of the product to be tested is applied topically daily.The product tested was PBS buffer for the untreated stressed control or the peptide obtained according to example (a) diluted to a concentration of 0.4 pM in PBS buffer. The skins were then collected and prepared for microscopic analysis.

[0386] Results :

[0387] The application of the aging-inducing cocktail to the reconstructed skin resulted in a 25% decrease in epidermal thickness (p<0.01) compared to that of the unstressed control skin. Conversely, the epidermal thickness of the stressed skin to which the peptide was applied was not significantly different from that of the unstressed control skin. Thus, the peptide according to the invention made it possible to maintain epidermal thickness in a model of reconstructed skin stressed by an aging cocktail.

[0388] This therefore demonstrates that the peptide according to the invention is useful for preventing and / or reducing the signs of aging of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, improving the architecture of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, in particular increasing their thickness, and / or preventing and / or treating unsightly marks on healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0389] Example 9: cosmetic ingredient

[0390] The cosmetic ingredient is prepared by diluting and mixing the peptide obtained in example a) in powders or liquids to obtain the following compositions (in % w / w):

[0391] • Peptide (la) 0.25%

[0392] • Mannitol qsp 100% b.

[0393] • Peptide (la) 0.1%

[0394] • Maltodextrin q.s. 100%

[0395] • Peptide (la) 0.02%

[0396] • Mannitol qsp 100% d.

[0397] • Peptide (la) 0.01%

[0398] • Maltodextrin qsp 100% e.

[0399] Peptide (la) 0.005%

[0400] 1,2-Hexandiol 1%

[0401] Glycerin 50%

[0402] Water qsp 100%

[0403] Example 10: Cosmetic composition

[0404] The cosmetic ingredient in Example 9 is formulated as the following gel-cream type cosmetic composition (Table 10):

[0405] The formulation was carried out in a conventional cold process.

[0406] Such a composition therefore contains 0.8 pM or 2 ppm by mass of the peptide obtained according to example a).

[0407] Example 11: Clinical tests of the peptide according to the invention on wrinkles under the eyes

[0408] Protocol

[0409] A group of women aged 49 to 70 years applied either the composition described in Example 10 or the placebo composition (the composition of Example 10 in which the cosmetic ingredient according to the invention was replaced by water) to half of their face, twice a day for two months. The maximum and mean depth of wrinkles around the eyes were assessed by fringe projection (AEVA) at baseline (D0), after one month of application (D28), and after two months of application (D56). The efficacy of the peptide-containing composition was compared with that of the placebo composition.

[0410] The mean changes in the average and maximum depth of wrinkles around the lower eye contour in the volunteer group were determined as a percentage at days 28 and 56 compared to baseline, and the peptide's efficacy was determined by the difference between this percentage change for the formulation containing the peptide and that of the placebo formulation. A negative value indicates shallower wrinkles.

[0411] Statistical analysis was performed after verifying the normality of the distribution of values ​​using an unpaired comparison (Student's t-test or Mann-Whitney U test). The significance level was set at 5% (p < 0.05) and the sample size was n = 29 volunteers.

[0412] Results :

[0413] Table 11.1 - Variation in the maximum and average depth of wrinkles in the lower eye contour

[0414] After 28 and 56 days, the peptide according to the invention resulted in a significant reduction in the maximum and average depth of wrinkles around the eyes treated, compared to a placebo composition. This test demonstrates that the peptide according to the invention is useful for preventing and / or reducing the signs of aging in healthy skin and / or mucous membranes.

Claims

1. DEMANDS 1. Cosmetic or dermatological ingredient comprising the peptide of sequence SEQ ID No. 1 and / or one of its derivatives and / or one of its salts.

2. Cosmetic or dermatological ingredient according to claim 1, wherein the peptide is in the form of the derivative of general formula 2: CH3- C(=O)- (Gly-Pro-Pro)3 -Gly-Pro-Hyp- Gly- Phe -Hyp - Gly- Glu- Arg - Gly-Pro-Hyp- (Gly-Pro-Pro)? - Gly- Phe -Phe- NH2 (2) 3. Cosmetic or dermatological ingredient according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the peptide is present in a content greater than or equal to 0.0001% by weight, preferably between 0.0001% and 10% by weight, more preferably between 0.005% and 1% by weight, even more preferably between 0.01% and 0.25% by weight, again preferably between 0.01% and 0.1% by weight, of dry matter relative to the total weight of the cosmetic or dermatological ingredient.

4. Cosmetic or dermatological ingredient according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in powder form or in liquid form, preferably in powder form further containing a drying support, more preferably in powder form further containing mannitol.

5. Cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising the peptide as defined in any one of claims 1 or 2 and further comprising a suitable cosmetic and / or dermatological vehicle.

6. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the preceding claim in which the peptide is present in a content between lxl0' 6 % and 0.1% by weight, preferably of lxl0' 5 % to lxl0' 2 % by weight, still advantageously from 5x10' 5% to 2xl0' 3 % by weight, in particular lxl0' 4 % to lxl0' 3% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a peptide of SEQ sequence ID No. 1 and / or of one of its derivatives and / or of one of its salts and / or of a cosmetic ingredient comprising it according to any one of claims 1 to 4 and / or of a cosmetic composition comprising it according to any one of claims 5 or 6, to improve the condition and / or appearance and / or comfort of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes and / or healthy hair and nails, in particular to prevent and / or reduce the signs of aging of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes.

8. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use according to claim 7, wherein the peptide is in the form of the derivative with general formula 2: CH3- C(=O)- (Gly-Pro-Pro)3 -Gly-Pro-Hyp- Gly- Phe -Hyp - Gly- Glu- Arg - Gly-Pro-Hyp- (Gly-Pro-Pro)? - Gly- Phe -Phe- NH2 (2) 9. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use according to any one of claims 7 or 8 for: - to prevent and / or reduce the signs of aging of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, and / or - to improve the architecture of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, in particular to regenerate healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, and / or to increase the thickness of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, and / or to prevent the thinning of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, in particular to prevent thin healthy skin and / or thin healthy mucous membranes, and / or to strengthen the skin and / or mucous membrane barrier, and / or - to prevent and / or treat unsightly marks on healthy skin and / or mucous membranes, in particular to prevent and / or treat unsightly non-pathological scars, and / or reduce their visibility, and / or - to improve and / or maintain the biomechanical properties of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, in particular firmness, density, elasticity, suppleness and / or tone, and / or - to soothe healthy skin, particularly a healthy scalp, and / or healthy mucous membranes, particularly sensitive skin, including a sensitive scalp, and / or sensitive mucous membranes, and / or - to improve and / or maintain healthy hair, in particular to improve and / or maintain the growth of hair, especially keratin fibers, and / or the quality of the keratin material produced at the level of the hair, especially keratin fibers, and / or to prevent and / or reduce the loss of hair, especially hair.

10. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use according to any one of claims 7 to 9 for: - increase the amount of collagen, particularly type III collagen, and / or the quantity and / or quality of collagen fibers and / or decrease the amount of damaged collagen in healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, and / or - increase the proliferation of keratinocytes in healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes and / or the adhesion of keratinocytes to the dermis, and / or - to increase the thickness of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, particularly the dermis, hypodermis and / or epidermis, and / or - reduce wrinkles, particularly their maximum and average depth, especially wrinkles under the eyes, and / or - to reduce glycation in healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, and / or - to increase the amount of elafin in healthy skin and / or mucous membranes, particularly its expression, and / or - improve the healthy hypodermis and / or increase and / or prevent the decrease of subcutaneous fat and in particular increase the expression of Livel, Proxl, PLN1 and / or FabP4 proteins.

11. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use according to any one of claims 7 to 10, characterized in that it is intended for sensitive skin.

12. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use according to any one of claims 7 to 11, characterized in that it is a topical use.

13. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use according to any one of claims 7 to 12 including topical application to at least one area of ​​healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membrane and / or healthy hair selected from the scalp, face in particular the contour of the lips and / or eyes as well as the forehead, hands, arms, décolleté, legs, neck, back, shoulders, belly, wrists, forearms, ankles, thighs, nape of the neck, joint folds and / or armpits, labial mucous membranes.

14. A non-therapeutic cosmetic care and / or treatment method comprising the topical application to at least one area of ​​healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes and / or healthy hair and nails of SEQ ID No. 1 peptide and / or one of its derivatives and / or one of its salts, and / or a cosmetic ingredient comprising it according to any one of claims 1 to 4 and / or a cosmetic composition comprising it according to any one of claims 5 or 6, to improve the condition and / or appearance and / or comfort of the area of ​​healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes and / or healthy hair and nails.

15. A non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment method according to claim 14, characterized in that it comprises the preliminary step of identifying an area of ​​healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes and / or healthy hair and nails whose condition and / or appearance and / or comfort is to be, or is to be, improved, in particular an area of ​​healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes and / or healthy hair and nails on or in which it is desired to: - increase the amount of collagen, in particular the synthesis of type 1 collagen III, and / or the quantity and / or quality of collagen fibers and / or reduce the amount of damaged collagen, and / or - to increase keratinocyte proliferation and keratinocyte adhesion to the dermis, and / or - to increase the thickness of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, particularly the dermis, hypodermis and / or epidermis, and / or - reduce wrinkles, particularly their maximum and average depth, especially wrinkles under the eyes, and / or - reduce glycation, and / or - increase the amount of elafin, particularly its expression, and / or - improve the hypodermis and / or increase and / or prevent the decrease of subcutaneous fat, in particular increase the expression of Livel, Proxl, PLN1, and / or FabP4 proteins.

16. A non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment method according to any one of claims 14 or 15, wherein the peptide is in the form of the derivative with general formula 2: CH3- C(=O)- (Gly-Pro-Pro)3 -Gly-Pro-Hyp- Gly- Phe -Hyp - Gly- Glu- Arg - Gly-Pro-Hyp- (Gly-Pro-Pro)? - Gly-Phe-Phe-NH2 (2).

17. Peptide of SEQ ID No. 1 and / or one of its salts and / or one of its derivatives, for use by topical application: - to repair the skin and / or mucous membranes, in particular to repair wounds and / or other superficial injuries of the skin and / or mucous membranes such as canker sores, and / or to improve healing, in particular for the treatment and / or prevention of scars, especially pathological scars, and / or - to prevent and / or treat skin inflammations, particularly of the scalp, and / or mucous membrane inflammations, such as dermatitis and erythema, especially sunburn and / or diaper rash, and / or gingivitis, and / or - to prevent and / or treat alopecia, and / or - to prevent and / or treat elastosis, particularly solar elastosis, and / or - to prevent and / or treat acne.

18. Peptide for its use according to the preceding claim characterized in that it is in the form of a dermatological ingredient according to any one of claims 1 to 4 and / or in the form of a dermatological composition according to any one of claims 5 or 6.

19. Peptide for its use according to any one of claims 17 or 18, in the treatment and / or care of inflamed, atopic, reactive, damaged and / or irritated skin, in particular scalp, and / or mucous membranes.

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