Cosmetic composition comprising cationic surfactants, solid fatty substances, polyols and liquid fatty esters, in a particular weight ratio, and cosmetic treatment process

Abstract

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions, in particular hair compositions, comprising cationic surfactants, solid fatty substances, polyols and liquid fatty esters, in a weight ratio of the polyols to the liquid fatty esters of between 1 and 1.68. The invention also relates to a process for cosmetic treatment, especially cleansing and / or conditioning, of keratin materials, especially the hair, using said composition.

Description

Cosmetic composition comprising cationic surfactants, solid fatty substances, polyols and liquid fatty esters, in a particular weight ratio, and cosmetic treatment process

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular a hair composition, comprising one or more cationic surfactants, one or more solid fatty substances, one or more polyols and one or more liquid fatty esters. The invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, especially the hair, using said composition.

[0002] Hair may generally be damaged and embrittled by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, and also by mechanical or chemical treatments, such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving and / or relaxing, or even repeated washing. Hair is thus damaged by these various factors and may over time become dry, coarse, brittle or dull, especially in fragile areas, and more particularly at the tips.

[0003] Thus, in order to overcome these drawbacks, it is common practice to make use of hair care compositions intended in particular to condition the hair by giving it satisfactory cosmetic properties. These hair compositions may be, for example, conditioners, masks or serums, and may be in the form of gels, hair lotions or care creams that are more or less thick.

[0004] It is also known practice to use compositions of conditioner type, comprising cationic surfactants, solid fatty substances, polyols and liquid fatty esters. However, the content of polyols therein is generally markedly higher than that of liquid fatty esters, which leads to rather unsatisfactory cosmetic properties.

[0005] These compositions can be further improved, in particular as regards the cosmetic properties imparted to the hair; more particularly, compositions are sought which provide a high level of cosmetics to the hair, in particular a smooth feel and improved coating, and also a notable reinforcement of the fiber, more particularly of damaged hair.

[0006] Moreover, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, i.e., products designed and developed while taking account of environmental issues, is becoming a major concern in helping to meet global challenges. It is thus proving essential to propose more sustainable compositions, thereby making it possible to respond to these environmental issues. In this context, it is important to develop novel cosmetic compositions with a good carbon footprint, especially by promoting the use of starting materials that are renewable and / or that have a good naturalness index and / or that are of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin, while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.

[0007] There is thus a real need to develop cosmetic compositions, especially hair compositions, which are capable of giving hair, especially damaged hair, improved cosmetic properties.

[0008] The aim of the present invention is to propose a composition and a process for treating keratin materials which provide a high level of cosmetic performance, especially for damaged hair.

[0009] This aim is achieved by the present invention, one subject of which is therefore especially a cosmetic composition, in particular a hair composition, comprising:

[0010] - one or more cationic surfactants,

[0011] - one or more solid fatty substances,

[0012] - one or more polyols, and

[0013] - one or more liquid fatty esters,

[0014] in which the weight ratio between the total amount of polyol(s) and the total amount of liquid fatty ester(s) is between 1 and 1.68.

[0015] It is also described a cosmetic composition, in particular a hair composition, comprising one or more cationic surfactants, one or more solid fatty substances, one or more polyols, and one or more liquid fatty esters, in which the weight ratio between the total amount of polyol(s) and the total amount of liquid fatty ester(s) is between 1 and 1.68.

[0016] The composition according to the invention thus makes it possible to endow the hair, especially damaged hair, with advantageous cosmetic properties, such as suppleness, softness, a smooth nature visually and to the touch, and ease of disentangling, especially on the most damaged hair.

[0017] The composition according to the invention makes it possible to provide a very good level of suppleness and lightness to the keratin fibers: the hair is more supple, less stiff; the head of hair has more movement and bounce, and appears more natural. The softening of the head of hair is reinforced in particular on wet hair: after application of the composition, the hair instantaneously becomes supple, fluid and smooth under water. It appears to be further transformed and treated.

[0018] Also noted are a smooth feel and a certain softness of the hair, and also a homogeneity of the coating and of the texture of the keratin fibers, from the root to the tip. The hair appears to be more regular and exhibits a particularly homogeneous coating and an absence of roughness to the touch; the irregularities in the damaged scales are no longer perceptible to the touch; the smooth nature of the head of hair is both visual and tactile; the hair thus appears to be repaired.

[0019] Moreover, the composition according to the invention has improved qualities of use; in particular, it is easily distributed over the hair, from root to tip, and has a melting character and a thick, non-greasy and non-sticky texture.

[0020] Advantageously, the composition comprises little or no silicone; thus, the silicones may be completely absent from the composition (0%), which is then called "silicone free", or else may be present in a content of less than or equal to 2% by weight, better still less than or equal to 1% by weight, even better still less than or equal to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0021] Silicone is understood to mean any compound comprising at least one Si-O bond, such as, for example, amino silicones, dimethiconols or polydialkylsiloxanes, well known to those skilled in the art, and among which mention may be made, by way of examples, of compounds having the INCI names Amodimethicone and Dimethicone.

[0022] In the present application, and unless otherwise indicated:

[0023] - the term "keratin materials" denotes keratin fibers (in particular the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the nails) and also the skin of the body and face, including the scalp;

[0024] - the term "at least one" is equivalent to "one or more" and can be replaced therewith; and

[0025] - the limits of a range of values are included within that range, especially in the expressions "(of) between ... and ..." and "ranging from ... to ...", these expressions being interchangeable.Cationic surfactants

[0026] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants.

[0027] Said cationic surfactants are non-silicone surfactants, that is to say that they do not contain any Si-O groups.

[0028] They are preferably chosen from quaternary ammonium salts, optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, or salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0029] The composition may comprise one or more cationic surfactants chosen, alone or as a mixture, from the following compounds, which are quaternary ammonium salts:

[0030] - the compounds corresponding to the general formula (II) below: (II)

[0031] in which:

[0032] X-is an anion notably chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4)alkylsulfonates or (C1-C4)alkylarylsulfonates;

[0033] the groups R1to R4, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group including from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R1to R4denoting a linear or branched aliphatic group including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0034] The aliphatic groups may include heteroatoms notably such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C1-C30alkyl, C1-C30alkoxy, (C2-C6) polyoxyalkylene, C1-C30alkylamide, (C12-C22)alkylamido(C2-C6)alkyl, (C12-C22)alkyl acetate, and C1-C30hydroxyalkyl groups.

[0035] Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (II), preference is given to tetraalkylammonium salts, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts, in which the alkyl group includes from approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, stearyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, dicetyldimethylammonium, or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, and also palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salts, or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium salts such as those sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the company Van Dyk.

[0036] It is preferred in particular to use the chloride, bromide or methyl sulfate salts of these compounds;

[0037] - the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as those of formula (III): (III)

[0038] in which R5represents an alkenyl or alkyl group including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, R6represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4alkyl group or an alkyl or alkenyl group including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R7represents a C1-C4alkyl group, R8represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4alkyl group, X-is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates in which the alkyl and aryl groups preferably comprise, respectively, from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0039] Preferably, R5and R6denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups including from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R7denotes a methyl group and R8denotes a hydrogen atom.

[0040] Such a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by the company Rewo;

[0041] - quaternary diammonium or triammonium salts, in particular of formula (IV): (IV)

[0042] in which:

[0043] R9denotes an alkyl radical including from about 16 to 30 carbon atoms which is optionally hydroxylated and / or optionally interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms,

[0044] R10is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical including from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (R9a)(R10a)(R11a)N-(CH2)3, with R9a, R10a, R11a, R11, R12, R13and R14, which may be identical or different, chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical including from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and

[0045] X-is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4)alkylsulfonates and (C1-C4)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.

[0046] Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 75).

[0047] - quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of formula (V) below: (V)

[0048] in which:

[0049] R15is chosen from C1-C6alkyl groups and C1-C6hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups;

[0050] R16is chosen from the group R19-C(O)-; groups R20which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22hydrocarbon-based groups; a hydrogen atom;

[0051] R18is chosen from the group R21-C(O)-; groups R22which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6hydrocarbon-based groups; a hydrogen atom;

[0052] R17, R19and R21, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21hydrocarbon-based groups;

[0053] r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers having values from 2 to 6;

[0054] y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;

[0055] x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers having a value from 0 to 10;

[0056] X-is a simple or complex, organic or mineral anion;

[0057] with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R16denotes R20, and that when z is 0 then R18denotes R22.

[0058] The alkyl groups R15may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear. Preferably, R15denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

[0059] Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.

[0060] When R16is a hydrocarbon-based group R20, it may be long and contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and contain from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0061] When R18is a hydrocarbon-based group R22, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0062] Advantageously, R17, R19and R21, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21alkyl and alkenyl groups.

[0063] Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.

[0064] Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

[0065] Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

[0066] The anion X-is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulfate, more particularly methyl sulfate. However, use may be made of methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium bearing an ester function. The anion X-is even more particularly chloride or methyl sulfate.

[0067] Use may be made more particularly in the composition according to the invention of the ammonium salts of formula (V) in which R15denotes a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1; z is equal to 0 or 1; r, s and t are equal to 2; R16is chosen from the group R19-C(O)-, methyl, ethyl or C14-C22hydrocarbon-based groups, and the hydrogen atom; R18is chosen from the group R21-C(O)- and the hydrogen atom; R17, R19and R21, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17hydrocarbon-based groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17alkyl and alkenyl groups.

[0068] Advantageously, the hydrocarbon-based groups are linear.

[0069] Mention may be made, for example, of the compounds of formula (V) such as the diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium and monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium salts (notably chloride or methyl sulfate), and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are derived more particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.

[0070] These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, an alkyldiethanolamine or an alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with C10-C30fatty acids or with mixtures of C10-C30fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof. This esterification is followed by a quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably a methyl or ethyl halide), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably a methyl or ethyl sulfate), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.

[0071] Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Henkel, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company CECA or Rewoquat® WE 18 by the company Rewo-Witco.

[0072] The hair composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts.

[0073] Use may also be made of the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180.

[0074] Use may be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride sold by KAO under the name Quatarmin BTC 131.

[0075] Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

[0076] Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that may be used, it is preferred to use dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts.

[0077] The term “fatty amine” means a compound comprising at least one optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, or salts thereof and comprising at least one C6-C30and preferably C8-C30hydrocarbon-based chain.

[0078] Preferably, the fatty amines that are useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0079] Fatty amines that may be mentioned include amidoamines. The amidoamines according to the invention may be chosen from fatty amidoamines, it being possible for the fatty chain to be borne by the amine group or by the amido group.

[0080] The term “amidoamine” means a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.

[0081] The term “fatty amidoamine” means an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C6-C30hydrocarbon-based chain. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines that are useful according to the invention are not quaternized.

[0082] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines that are useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0083] Among the fatty amidoamines that are useful according to the invention, mention may be made of the amidoamines of formula (VI) below: RCONHR’’N(R’)2(VI)

[0084] in which:

[0085] - R represents a substituted or unsubstituted, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29and preferably C7-C23alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C5-C29and preferably C7-C23alkenyl radical;

[0086] - R’’ represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 4 carbon atoms and better still 3 carbon atoms; and

[0087] - R’, which may be identical or different, represent a substituted or unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical.

[0088] The fatty amidoamines of formula (VI) are chosen, for example, from oleamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, isostearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyldimethylamine, myristamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, ricinoleamindopropyldimethylamine, soyamidopropyldimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyldimethylamine, cocamidopropyldimethylamine, minkamidopropyldimethylamine, oatamidopropyldimethylamine, sesamidopropyldimethylamine, tallamidopropyldimethylamine, olivamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[0089] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are chosen from oleamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[0090] The cationic surfactant(s) are preferably chosen from those of formula (II) above, those of formula (V) above, those of formula (VI) above, and mixtures thereof; better still from those of formula (II) above, those of formula (VI) above, and mixtures thereof; even better still from those of formula (II) above.

[0091] Preferentially, the cationic surfactant(s) may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from salts such as chlorides, bromides or methosulfates, of tetraalkylammonium, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group includes approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, stearyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, dicetyldimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts; dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts such as dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate; and mixtures thereof.

[0092] Even more preferentially, they are chosen from cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

[0093] The composition according to the invention may preferably comprise the cationic surfactant(s) in a total content which ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, notably from 0.2% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 7% by weight, even better still from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Solid fatty substances

[0094] The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more solid fatty substances. This or these fatty substance(s) are non-silicone fatty substances (do not contain any Si-O bonds).

[0095] The term "solid" is understood to mean that the compound has a melting point of strictly greater than 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa).

[0096] The solid fatty substances may be chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or of fatty alcohols, waxes and ceramides, and mixtures thereof.

[0097] Advantageously, the solid fatty substances that can be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0098] The term "fatty acids" is understood to mean a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. Preferably, they are linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated.

[0099] The solid fatty acids that may be used in the present invention are notably chosen from myristic acid, cetylic acid, stearylic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0100] The term “fatty alcohol” means a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and include from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0101] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferentially from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0102] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from saturated and linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, monoalcohols comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0103] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be chosen from, alone or as a mixture, myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); or myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0104] Preferentially, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol; better still, the solid fatty alcohol is cetylstearyl alcohol.

[0105] The solid esters of a fatty acid and / or of a fatty alcohol that may be used are preferably chosen from the esters obtained from a C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and / or a C9-C26 fatty alcohol, different from the liquid fatty esters above; better still, they are chosen from the esters obtained from a C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and a C9-C26 fatty alcohol.

[0106] Preferably, the solid fatty esters are esters of a saturated, linear or branched carboxylic acid comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of a saturated, linear or branched monoalcohol comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

[0107] Use may also be made of esters of C4-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and of esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols.

[0108] Mention may in particular be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0109] Preferably, the solid esters of a fatty acid and / or of a fatty alcohol are chosen from the solid esters of a fatty acid and of a fatty alcohol, and better still from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate or stearyl palmitate; C9-C26 alkyl myristates, such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, in particular myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate and stearyl stearate; and mixtures thereof.

[0110] Particularly preferably, the solid esters of a fatty acid and / or of a fatty alcohol which are solid are chosen from myristyl stearate, myristyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0111] For the purposes of the present invention, a wax is a lipophilic compound, which is solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than about 40°C, which may be up to 200°C, and having in the solid state anisotropic crystal organization. In general, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition that comprises them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but on returning the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, recrystallization of the wax, which is microscopically and macroscopically detectable (opalescence), is obtained.

[0112] In particular, the waxes that are suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, plant or mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof.

[0113] Mention may notably be made of hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance beeswax or modified beeswaxes (cera bellina), lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, spermaceti; cork fibre or sugarcane waxes, olive tree wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax, absolute waxes of flowers; montan wax, orange wax, lemon wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, petroleum jelly, lignite and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof.

[0114] Mention may also be made of C2 to C60 microcrystalline waxes, such as Microwax HW. Mention may also be made of the MW 500 polyethylene wax sold under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.

[0115] Mention may also be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains.

[0116] Among these waxes, mention may notably be made of isomerized jojoba oil such as trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, notably the product manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, notably the product sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene.

[0117] The waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax Castor 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sophim, may also be used.

[0118] A wax that may also be used is a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P® and Kester Wax K 80 P® by the company Koster Keunen.

[0119] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; mention may notably be made of carnauba microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350® by the company Micro Powders, synthetic-wax microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as the products sold under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care 325® by the company Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders, and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company Micro Powders.

[0120] The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes, for instance ozokerite, lignite, petroleum jelly or paraffin wax; plant waxes, for instance cork fibre wax or sugar cane wax, olive tree wax, rice bran wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, ouricury wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, or absolute waxes of flowers, such as the essential wax of blackcurrant flower sold by the company Bertin (France); waxes of animal origin, for instance beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cera bellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.

[0121] Ceramides or ceramide analogs, such as glycoceramides, that may used in the compositions according to the invention, are known; mention may in particular be made of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification.

[0122] Mention may be made, as compounds which are particularly preferred, of 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxypalmitoyl]aminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3,4-triol and in particular N-stearoylphytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetylic acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide and bis(N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. N-Oleoyldihydrosphingosine will preferably be used.

[0123] Preferably, the solid fatty substances are chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or of fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0124] Better still, the solid fatty substances are chosen from, alone or as a mixture, saturated, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, monoalcohols comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms; esters of a saturated, linear or branched, carboxylic acid comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of a saturated, linear or branched, monoalcohol comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, the saturated carboxylic acids being optionally hydroxylated.

[0125] Even better still, the composition according to the invention comprises both one or more saturated, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, monoalcohols comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms; and one or more esters of a saturated, linear or branched, carboxylic acid comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of a saturated, linear or branched, monoalcohol comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, the saturated carboxylic acids being optionally hydroxylated.

[0126] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the solid fatty substance(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 25% by weight, especially from 1% to 20% by weight, better still from 2% to 18% by weight, preferentially from 3% to 15% by weight, even better still from 4% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0127] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the solid fatty substance(s) chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or of fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof, in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 25% by weight, in particular from 1% to 20% by weight, better still from 2% to 18% by weight, preferentially from 3% to 15% by weight, even better still from 4% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Polyols

[0128] The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more polyols.

[0129] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyol" is understood to mean an organic compound constituted of a hydrocarbon chain optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms and bearing at least two free hydroxyl (-OH) groups, preferably borne by different carbon atoms, it being possible for this compound to be cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated.

[0130] The polyols according to the invention are different from the solid fatty alcohols previously described.

[0131] More particularly, the polyol or polyols comprise from 2 to 30 hydroxy groups, better still from 2 to 10 hydroxy groups, preferentially from 2 to 3 hydroxy groups. They preferably comprise from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, particularly from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and better still from 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0132] Advantageously, the polyol or polyols are chosen from diglycerol, glycerol, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, octane-1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sugars such as glucose and mixtures thereof, preferably from glycerol, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, octane-1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof, and even better still from glycerol, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.

[0133] The polyol or polyols may be present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferentially ranging from 1% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0134] The polyol(s) chosen from glycerol, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof may be present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferentially ranging from 1% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0135] Glycerol may preferably be present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferentially ranging from 1% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Liquid fatty esters

[0136] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more liquid fatty esters.

[0137] The term "liquid" is understood to mean that the compound has a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa). For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments. In the present patent application, all the melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa).

[0138] The term "fatty" is understood to mean that the compound (in particular alcohol, acid or ester) comprises at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, hydrocarbon chain comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, for example by one or more (in particular 1 to 4) hydroxyl (OH) groups. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0139] The term "ester" is understood to mean, in the usual way, an ester of a carboxylic acid and of an alcohol.

[0140] The liquid fatty esters are non-silicone esters (do not comprise any Si-O bonds). They are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0141] Liquid fatty esters are advantageously different from oils of triglyceride type (glycerol triester), in particular of vegetable or synthetic origin.

[0142] The liquid fatty ester(s) that may be employed within the context of the present invention are preferably esters of a fatty acid, especially esters of a C1-C40, in particular C2-C32, even better still C3-C28, or even C4-C22, carboxylic acid (the chain length indicated being that of the acid), it being possible for said acid to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and optionally substituted, for example by one or more (especially 1 to 4) hydroxyl groups (OH).

[0143] Said carboxylic acid may be a monoacid or a polyacid, preferably a monoacid.

[0144] Said carboxylic acid may be linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated. Preferably, said acid is not substituted.

[0145] Advantageously, said carboxylic acid is a linear or branched, saturated (and unsubstituted) C1-C40, in particular C2-C32, even better still C3-C28, or even C4-C22, monoacid.

[0146] Very particularly, said acid may be a saturated (unsubstituted) linear C8-C22, especially C10-C20, or even C12-C18, or else branched C3-C11, better still C4-C10, or even C5-C9, monoacid.

[0147] The liquid fatty ester(s) that may be employed within the context of the present invention are preferably esters of a carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40, in particular C2-C32, even better still C3-C28, or even C4-C22, alcohol (the chain length indicated being that of the alcohol), it being possible for said alcohol to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and optionally substituted.

[0148] Said alcohol may be a monoalcohol or a polyol, preferably a monoalcohol.

[0149] Said alcohol may be linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated. Preferably, said alcohol is not substituted.

[0150] Advantageously, said alcohol is a linear or branched, saturated (and unsubstituted) C1-C40, in particular C2-C32, even better still C3-C28, or even C4-C22, monoalcohol.

[0151] Very particularly, said alcohol may be a saturated (unsubstituted) linear C8-C22, especially C10-C20, or even C12-C18, or else branched C3-C15, better still C3-C13, or even C3-C9, monoalcohol.

[0152] Thus, the liquid fatty esters that may be employed within the context of the present invention are advantageously, alone or as a mixture, esters of a C1-C40, in particular C2-C32, even better still C3-C28, or even C4-C22, carboxylic acid (the chain length indicated being that of the acid), it being possible for said acid to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and optionally substituted, for example by one or more (especially 1 to 4) hydroxyl groups (OH); and of a C1-C40, in particular C2-C32, even better still C3-C28, or even C4-C22, alcohol (the chain length indicated being that of the alcohol), it being possible for said alcohol to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and optionally substituted; one at least of the alcohol or the acid preferably being branched.

[0153] Among the liquid fatty esters that may be used, mention may be made in particular of the esters of aliphatic, saturated or unsaturated, linear C1 to C26 or branched C3 to C26 mono- or polyacids and of aliphatic, saturated or unsaturated, linear C1 to C26 or branched C3 to C26 mono- or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

[0154] Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, one at least of the alcohol or the acid is branched.

[0155] Preferably, mention may be made of the esters of a linear or branched, saturated (and unsubstituted) C1-C40, in particular C2-C32, even better still C3-C28, or even C4-C22, monoacid; and of a linear or branched, saturated C1-C40, in particular C2-C32, even better still C3-C28, or even C4-C22, monoalcohol; one at least of the alcohol or the acid being branched.

[0156] Advantageously, mention may be made of the esters of a saturated (unsubstituted) linear C8-C22, especially C10-C20, or even C12-C18, or else branched C3-C11, better still C4-C10, or even C5-C9, monoacid; and of a saturated (unsubstituted) linear C8-C22, especially C10-C20, or even C12-C18, or else branched C3-C15, better still C3-C13, or even C3-C9, monoalcohol; one at least of the alcohol or the acid being branched.

[0157] Mention may more particularly be made, alone or as a mixture, of:

[0158] - ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isostearyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate or 2-octyldecyl palmitate;

[0159] - isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate;

[0160] - isoamyl laurate, isocetyl laurate or 2-hexyldecyl laurate;

[0161] - isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate or 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate;

[0162] - isodecyl neopentanoate or isostearyl neopentanoate;

[0163] - 2-ethylhexyl stearate, isocetyl stearate or isobutyl stearate;

[0164] - isostearyl octanoate, isocetyl octanoate or isodecyl octanoate;

[0165] - decyl oleate or isodecyl oleate;

[0166] - isocetyl isostearate;

[0167] - octyldodecyl or oleyl erucates;

[0168] - octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate;

[0169] - isostearyl lactate, lauryl lactate, linoleyl lactate, oleyl lactate.

[0170] The liquid fatty ester(s) may preferably be chosen from the liquid esters of a C12-C18 carboxylic acid and a C1-C5 alcohol.

[0171] Among said liquid esters of a C12-C18 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C5 alcohol, mention may be made in particular of esters of aliphatic, saturated or unsaturated, linear C12-C18 or branched C12-C18 mono- or polyacids and of aliphatic, saturated or unsaturated, linear C1-C5 or branched C3-C5 mono- or polyalcohols.

[0172] Preference is given to using one or more esters of a C12-C18 monocarboxylic acid and of a C1-C5 monoalcohol.

[0173] Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, one at least of the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the invention are obtained is branched, preferably the alcohol.

[0174] Better still, use is made of one or more liquid esters of a linear C12-C18, especially C14-16, monocarboxylic acid and of a branched C3-C5, especially C3, monoalcohol.

[0175] Mention may be made in particular of the liquid esters of myristic acid, palmitic acid or stearic acid and of a C1-C5 monoalcohol, especially branched C3-C5 monoalcohol, and in particular isopropyl myristate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isobutyl stearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0176] Even better still, the liquid fatty ester(s) are chosen from isopropyl myristate and isopropyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0177] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the liquid fatty ester(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, especially from 0.2% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 4% by weight and even better still from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0178] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the liquid fatty ester(s) of aliphatic, saturated or unsaturated, linear C1 to C26 or branched C3 to C26 mono- or polyacids and of aliphatic, saturated or unsaturated, linear C1 to C26 or branched C3 to C26 mono- or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, especially from 0.2% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 4% by weight and even better still from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0179] Better still, the composition according to the invention comprises the liquid fatty ester(s) of a saturated (unsubstituted) linear C8-C22, especially C10-C20, or even C12-C18, or else branched C3-C11, better still C4-C10, or even C5-C9, monoacid; and of a saturated (unsubstituted) linear C8-C22, especially C10-C20, or even C12-C18, or else branched C3-C15, better still C3-C13, or even C3-C9, monoalcohol; one at least of the alcohol or the acid being branched; in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, especially from 0.2% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 4% by weight and even better still from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0180] The composition according to the invention may even better still comprise the liquid fatty ester(s) of a C12-C18 monocarboxylic acid and of a C1-C5 monoalcohol in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, especially from 0.2% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 4% by weight, and even better still from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Ratio

[0181] In the composition according to the invention, the total content of polyol(s) and the total content of liquid fatty ester(s) are such that the weight ratio between said total amount of polyol(s) and said total amount of liquid fatty ester(s) is between 1 and 1.68; preferably, this weight ratio may be between 1 and 1.6, in particular between 1 and 1.5 (the limits being included).

[0182] Preferably, the weight ratio between the total amount of polyol(s) chosen from glycerol, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof and the total amount of liquid fatty ester(s) chosen from liquid fatty esters of a C12-C18 monocarboxylic acid and a C1-C5 monoalcohol is between 1 and 1.68; preferably, this weight ratio may be between 1 and 1.6, in particular between 1 and 1.5 (the limits being included).Additional fatty substances

[0183] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more additional liquid fatty substances, different from the above liquid fatty esters, which may be chosen from liquid hydrocarbons, non-(poly)oxyalkylenated liquid fatty alcohols, mineral oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0184] The liquid hydrocarbons may be C6 to C18 liquid hydrocarbons and be linear, branched or optionally cyclic; they are preferably chosen from C8-C16, especially C10-C14, alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane or isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane or isodecane, and mixtures thereof.

[0185] The liquid hydrocarbons may also be chosen from those comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin; mention may be made of liquid paraffins or liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.

[0186] The non-(poly)oxyalkylenated liquid fatty alcohols may be chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples that may be mentioned include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0187] In one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention may further comprise, as additional fatty substances, one or more silicones, in particular one or more amino silicones (in particular those of INCI: amodimethicone).

[0188] The silicones may in particular be chosen from non-volatile liquid non-amino silicones, among which mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of polydialkylsiloxanes and notably polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS or dimethicone), polydiarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, and also non-amino organopolysiloxanes (or organomodified polysiloxanes, or alternatively organomodified silicones) which are polysiloxanes including in their structure one or more non-amino organofunctional groups, generally attached via a hydrocarbon-based group, and preferably chosen from aryl groups, alkoxy groups and polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene groups. The organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, notably polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned previously. The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and / or branched polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes.

[0189] The silicones may be chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made principally of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups (INCI: dimethicone) and polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups (INCI: dimethiconol).

[0190] The term “amino silicone” denotes any silicone including at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.

[0191] Preferably, the amino silicone(s) are chosen, alone or as mixtures, from the following compounds:

[0192] A) the polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (Ia):

[0193] in which x’ and y’ are integers such that the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) is between 5000 and 500 000 g / mol;

[0194] B) the amino silicones corresponding to formula (IIa):

[0195] R’aG3-a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR’2-b)m-O-SiG3-a’-R’a’(IIa)

[0196] in which:

[0197] - G, which may be identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom or a phenyl, OH, C1-C8alkyl, for example methyl, or C1-C8alkoxy, for example methoxy, group;

[0198] - a and a’, which may be identical or different, denote 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, with the proviso that at least one from among a and a’ is equal to zero,

[0199] - b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1,

[0200] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and notably from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and notably from 1 to 10; and

[0201] - R’, which may be identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amine group chosen from the following groups: -NR’’-Q-N(R’’)2, -N(R’’)2, -N+(R’’)3A-, -N+H(R’’)2A-, -N+H2(R’’) A-, -NR’’-Q-N+(R’’)H2A-, -NR’’-Q-N+(R’’)2H A-and -NR’’-Q-N+(R’’)3A-, in which R’’, which may be identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical, for example a C1-C20alkyl radical; Q denotes a linear or branched group of formula CrH2r, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A-represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, notably a halide, such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

[0202] Preferably, the amino silicones of formula (IIa) may be chosen from:

[0203] (i) the “trimethylsilyl amodimethicone” silicones corresponding to formula (III):

[0204] in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, preferably from 20 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 600, better still from 50 to 150; n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and notably from 49 to 149 and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and notably from 1 to 10;

[0205] (ii) the silicones of formula (IV) below:

[0206] in which:

[0207] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n denoting a number from 0 to 999 and notably from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175, and m denoting a number from 1 to 1000, notably from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; and

[0208] - R1, R2and R3, which may be identical or different, represent a hydroxy or C1-C4alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals R1to R3denoting an alkoxy radical.

[0209] Preferably, the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

[0210] The hydroxy / alkoxy mole ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1.

[0211] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1 000 000 g / mol and more particularly from 3500 to 200 000 g / mol;

[0212] (iii) the silicones of formula (V) below:

[0213] in which:

[0214] - p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350 and more particularly from 150 to 250; p denoting a number from 0 to 999, notably from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239, and q denoting a number from 1 to 1000, notably from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; and

[0215] - R1and R2, which are different, represent a hydroxy or C1-C4alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals R1or R2denoting an alkoxy radical.

[0216] Preferably, the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

[0217] The hydroxy / alkoxy mole ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95.

[0218] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2000 to 200 000 g / mol, more preferentially from 5000 to 100 000 g / mol and in particular from 10 000 to 50 000 g / mol.

[0219] (iv) the silicones of formula (VI) below:

[0220] in which:

[0221] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and notably from 49 to 149, and m denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and notably from 1 to 10; and

[0222] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.

[0223] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1 000 000 g / mol and more particularly from 3500 to 200 000 g / mol.

[0224] (v) the silicones of formula (VII) below:

[0225] in which:

[0226] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and notably from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and notably from 1 to 10; and

[0227] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.

[0228] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1 000 000 g / mol and more particularly from 1000 to 200 000 g / mol.

[0229] C) the amino silicones corresponding to formula (VIII):

[0230] in which:

[0231] - R5represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18alkyl or C2-C18alkenyl radical, for example methyl;

[0232] - R6represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, notably a C1-C18alkylene radical or a divalent C1-C18, for example C1-C8, alkyleneoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;

[0233] - Q-is an anion such as a halide ion, notably chloride, or an organic acid salt, notably acetate;

[0234] - r represents a mean statistical value ranging from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8;

[0235] and

[0236] - s represents a mean statistical value ranging from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50;

[0237] D) the quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (IX):

[0238] in which:

[0239] - R7, which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18alkyl radical, a C2-C18alkenyl radical or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;

[0240] - R6represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, notably a C1-C18alkylene radical or a divalent C1-C18, for example C1-C8, alkyleneoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;

[0241] - R8, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18alkyl radical, a C2-C18alkenyl radical or a radical -R6-NHCOR7;

[0242] - X-is an anion such as a halide ion, notably chloride, or an organic acid salt, notably acetate; and

[0243] - r represents a mean statistical value ranging from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100.

[0244] E) the amino silicones of formula (X):

[0245] in which:

[0246] - R1, R2, R3and R4, which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C4alkyl radical or a phenyl group,

[0247] - R5denotes a C1-C4alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group,

[0248] - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,

[0249] - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and

[0250] - x is chosen such that the amine number ranges from 0.01 to 1 meq / g;

[0251] F) the multiblock polyoxyalkylene amino silicones, of (AB)ntype, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylene block including at least one amine group.

[0252] Said silicones are preferably formed from repeating units having the following general formulae:

[0253] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-R-N(R’’)-R’-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-R’-N(H)-R-] or

[0254] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-R-N(R’’)-R’-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-]

[0255] in which:

[0256] - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200 and more particularly ranging from 10 to 100;

[0257] - b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 to 100 and more particularly between 5 and 30;

[0258] - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10 000 and more particularly from 10 to 5000;

[0259] - R’’ is a hydrogen atom or a methyl;

[0260] - R, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent C2-C12hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R, which may be identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferentially, R denote a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; and

[0261] - R’, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent C2-C12hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R’, which may be identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferentially, R’ denote -CH(CH3)-CH2-.

[0262] The siloxane blocks preferably represent between 50 mol% and 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 mol% to 85 mol%.

[0263] The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.

[0264] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1 000 000 g / mol and more particularly between 10 000 and 200 000 g / mol.

[0265] G) the amino silicones of formulae (XI) and (XII):

[0266] in which:

[0267] - R, R’ and R’’, which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C4alkyl group or a hydroxyl group,

[0268] - A denotes a C3alkylene radical; and

[0269] - m and n are numbers such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 5000 and 500 000;

[0270] in which:

[0271] - x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably, x ranges from 10 to 2000 and more preferentially from 100 to 1000; preferably, y ranges from 1 to 100;

[0272] - R1and R2, which may be identical or different, preferably identical, denote a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; and

[0273] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0274] Preferably, A comprises from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferentially 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched. Mention may be made in particular of the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2- and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-.

[0275] Preferably, R1and R2are independent saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; mention may be made in particular of dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; and preferentially, R1and R2, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

[0276] Preferably, in the silicone of formula (XII):

[0277] - x ranges from 10 to 2000 and in particular from 100 to 1000;

[0278] - y ranges from 1 to 100;

[0279] - A comprises from 3 to 6 carbon atoms and notably 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched; more particularly, A is chosen from the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-; and

[0280] - R1and R2independently are saturated linear alkyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; notably chosen from dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; preferentially, R1and R2, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

[0281] H) polysiloxanes and notably polydimethylsiloxanes, including primary amine groups at only one chain end or on side chains, such as those of formula (XIV), (XV) or (XVI):

[0282] In formula (XIV), the values of n and m are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 1000 and 55 000.

[0283] As examples of amino silicones of formula (XIV), mention may be made of the products sold under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203 by the company Gelest and KF-8015 by the company Shin-Etsu.

[0284] In formula (XV), the value of n is such that the weight-average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 500 and 3000.

[0285] As examples of amino silicones of formula (XV), mention may be made of the products sold under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 by the company Gelest.

[0286] In formula (XVI), the values of n and m are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 500 and 50 000.

[0287] As examples of amino silicones of formula (XVI), mention may be made of the aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone sold under the name DC 2-2078 Fluid by the company Dow Corning.

[0288] When it comprises one or more silicones, the composition according to the invention preferably comprises one or more silicones chosen, alone or as a mixture, from non-volatile liquid non-amino silicones, and notably polydialkylsiloxanes and more particularly polydimethylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups; and / or non-volatile liquid amino silicones, such as amodimethicones; and also mixtures thereof. Better still, when it comprises one or more silicones, the composition according to the invention preferably comprises one or more amodimethicones.

[0289] When they are present, the composition according to the invention may comprise the (silicone and non-silicone) additional liquid fatty substance(s), different from liquid fatty esters, in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Other ingredients

[0290] The composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise water, preferably in a total content of between 65% and 98% by weight, preferably between 70% and 95% by weight, preferentially between 75% and 92% by weight and even better still between 80% and 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0291] The composition may also comprise a mixture of water and of one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents chosen from C1-C4alcohols, especially monoalcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0292] The pH of the composition according to the invention generally ranges from 3 to 7, preferably from 3.5 to 6 and preferentially from 3.6 to 5.5.

[0293] The composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise one or more linear or branched carboxylic acids, comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; preferably, they correspond to formula (I) below:

[0294] in which:

[0295] - n is an integer between 0 and 2, better still n = 0 or 1, preferably n = 0;

[0296] - A is a monovalent (when n = 0) or multivalent (when n is other than 0), saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched, cyclic or even aromatic, hydrocarbon group comprising from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, better still from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl (-OH) and / or amino (NH2) groups.

[0297] Mention may in particular be made, alone or as a mixture, of lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, preferably tartaric acid.

[0298] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises said carboxylic acid(s), when they are present, in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, especially from 0.02% to 5% by weight, better still ranging from 0.03% to 1% by weight, even better still from 0.03% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0299] The composition according to the invention may additionally comprise at least one or more standard cosmetic ingredients chosen in particular from thickeners, gelling agents, sunscreens; moisturizers; anti-dandruff agents; anti-hair loss agents; antioxidants; chelating agents; reducing agents; oxidation bases, couplers, oxidizing agents, direct dyes; hair-straightening agents; pearlescent agents and opacifiers; micas, nacres, glitter flakes; plasticizers or coalescers; pigments; fillers; fragrances; and basifying or acidifying agents. A person skilled in the art will take care to select the ingredients included in the composition, and also the amounts thereof, so that they do not harm the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

[0300] The cosmetic composition according to the invention especially finds a particularly advantageous application in the hair sector, especially for cleansing and / or conditioning, most particularly conditioning, the hair.

[0301] The hair compositions are preferably conditioners or hair masks; advantageously, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a conditioner, especially a conditioner, that can be rinsed off.

[0302] The cosmetic composition may or may not be rinsed off after having been applied to the keratin materials, notably to the hair. It is thus optionally possible to perform rinsing, for example with water, after an optional leave-on time. It is preferably rinsed off, after an optional leave-on time.

[0303] A subject of the invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment, especially cleansing and / or conditioning, most particularly conditioning, of keratin materials, especially keratin fibers, in particular the hair, comprising a step of applying a cosmetic composition according to the invention to said keratin materials.

[0304] A step of rinsing the keratin materials, for example with water, is preferably carried out after the step of applying the composition according to the invention.

[0305] A step of drying the keratin materials may be provided in the process according to the invention, in particular after the rinsing step, especially using a heating means such as a hairdryer.

[0306] Preferably, it is a hair treatment process, in particular for washing and / or conditioning the hair.

[0307] The present invention is illustrated in greater detail in the following examples.Example 1

[0308] The cosmetic composition according to the invention A1 and comparative cosmetic compositions A2 and A3 are prepared from the ingredients shown in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed as percentage by weight of active material (g% AM).

[0309] A1(invention)A2(comparative)A3(comparative)Behentrimonium chloride2.22.22.2Isopropyl myristate222Cetyl esters(INCI: CETYL ESTERS)1.451.451.45Cetearyl alcohol555Glycerol2.459.60.2Isopropanol0.50.50.5Preserving agentsqsqsqsWaterqs 100qs 100qs 100Glycerol / isopropyl myristate ratio1.24.80.1

[0310] Compositions are obtained which can be used for the care and conditioning of the hair, for example as a rinse-out conditioner.

[0311] The cosmetic performances provided by composition A1 according to the invention are evaluated with those provided by the comparative compositions.

[0312] Protocol:

[0313] The locks of Caucasian-type hair sensitized beforehand by a bleaching treatment (SA20) are cleansed by applying a standard shampoo (DOP chamomile), in a proportion of 0.3 g per gram of lock. The locks are then rinsed with water for 15 seconds (flow rate: 300 L / h – temperature 35°C). The composition is applied to the locks of still-wet hair, in a proportion of 0.45 g per gram of lock. After a waiting time of 5 minutes, the lock is rinsed with water for 10 seconds (flow rate: 300 L / h – temperature 35°C). Cosmetic performance is evaluated on wet hair.

[0314] (i) The cosmetic performance of compositions A1 and A2 is evaluated on the following criteria: the “smooth feel” criterion and the “coating homogeneity”.

[0315] Performance is evaluated blind by 6 trained evaluators, who award a score ranging from 0 (no performance) to 5 (high performance), in steps of 0.5, on the criterion tested.

[0316] Evaluation of the smooth feel: the evaluator takes a lock of hair at the root and slides it through the fingers over the entire length of the lock as far as the ends. The more the hair is uniform, homogeneous from the root to the end, the fewer bumps it exhibits, the less it catches on the fingers, the better the smooth feel.

[0317] Evaluation of the coating: the evaluator takes the lock of hair in the hand, starts from the root and slides as far as the ends. The more a homogeneous deposit is felt on the fibre, the better the coating homogeneity.

[0318] The following results are obtained:

[0319] Composition A1(ratio = 1.2)Composition A2(ratio = 4.8)Smooth feelScores: 4 / 4 / 4 / 4 / 4 / 4Mean: 4Standard deviation: 0Scores: 2.5 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 2 / 3Mean: 2.75Standard deviation: 0.76Coating homogeneityScores: 4 / 4 / 4 / 4 / 4 / 4Mean: 4Standard deviation: 0Scores: 1.5 / 2 / 2 / 4.5 / 2.5 / 3Mean: 2.58Standard deviation: 1.07

[0320] It is found that the composition according to the invention (ratio less than 1.68) produces better cosmetic performance on wet hair. The hair appears smoother to the touch, with a more present, homogeneous and soft coating, from root to ends.

[0321] (ii) The cosmetic performance of compositions A1 and A3 is evaluated on the following criterion: "hair softening".

[0322] Performance is evaluated blind by 5 trained evaluators, who award a score ranging from 0 (no softening) to 5 (highly softened), in steps of 0.5, on the criterion tested.

[0323] The evaluator folds the wet lock in three in their hand and assesses the force needed for this operation. The more force it takes, the more body / substance / strength the hair has and is therefore repaired.

[0324] The following results are obtained:

[0325] Composition A1 (ratio = 1.2)Composition A3 (ratio = 0.1)SofteningScores: 3 / 3 / 3 / 3 / 3Mean: 3Standard deviation: 0Scores: 4 / 4 / 4 / 4 / 4Mean: 4Standard deviation: 0

[0326] It is found that the composition according to the invention (ratio greater than 1) makes it possible to limit the softening of keratin fibers; the composition according to the invention therefore makes it possible to reinforce the fiber better, a sign of better repair qualities.

Claims

A cosmetic composition, in particular a hair composition, comprising:- one or more cationic surfactants,- one or more solid fatty substances,- one or more polyols, and- one or more liquid fatty esters,in which the weight ratio between the total amount of polyol(s) and the total amount of liquid fatty ester(s) is between 1 and 1.68.The composition as claimed in the preceding claim, in which the cationic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:- the compounds corresponding to the general formula (II) below:(II)in which:X-is an anion notably chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4)alkylsulfonates or (C1-C4)alkylarylsulfonates;the groups R1to R4, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group including from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R1to R4denoting a linear or branched aliphatic group including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, the aliphatic groups possibly including heteroatoms notably such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.- the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as those of formula (III):(III)in which R5represents an alkenyl or alkyl group including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, R6represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4alkyl group or an alkyl or alkenyl group including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R7represents a C1-C4alkyl group, R8represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4alkyl group, X-is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates in which the alkyl and aryl groups preferably comprise, respectively, from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms.- quaternary diammonium or triammonium salts, in particular of formula (IV):(IV)in which:R9denotes an alkyl radical including from about 16 to 30 carbon atoms which is optionally hydroxylated and / or optionally interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms,R10is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical including from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (R9a)(R10a)(R11a)N-(CH2)3, with R9a, R10a, R11a, R11, R12, R13and R14, which may be identical or different, chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical including from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, andX-is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4)alkylsulfonates and (C1-C4)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.- quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of formula (V) below:(V)in which:R15is chosen from C1-C6alkyl groups and C1-C6hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups;R16is chosen from the group R19-C(O)-; groups R20which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22hydrocarbon-based groups; a hydrogen atom;R18is chosen from the group R21-C(O)-; groups R22which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6hydrocarbon-based groups; a hydrogen atom;R17, R19and R21, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21hydrocarbon-based groups;r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers having values from 2 to 6;y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers having a value from 0 to 10;X-is a simple or complex, organic or mineral anion;with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R16denotes R20, and that when z is 0 then R18denotes R22.- fatty amines, notably fatty amidoamines, and in particular the amidoamines of formula (VI) below: RCONHR’’N(R’)2(VI)in which:- R represents a substituted or unsubstituted, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29and preferably C7-C23alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C5-C29and preferably C7-C23alkenyl radical;- R’’ represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 4 carbon atoms and better still 3 carbon atoms; and- R’, which may be identical or different, represent a substituted or unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical;preferably from those of formula (II), (V), (VI), and mixtures thereof;preferentially, the cationic surfactant(s) being chosen, alone or as a mixture, from salts such as chlorides, bromides or methosulfates, of tetraalkylammonium, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group includes approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, stearyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, dicetyldimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts; dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts such as dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate; and mixtures thereof.The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims, comprising the cationic surfactant(s) in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, especially from 0.2% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 7% by weight, even better still from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims, wherein the solid fatty substance(s) are chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or of fatty alcohols, waxes and ceramides, and also mixtures thereof; preferably from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or of fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof;better still, alone or as a mixture, from saturated, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, monoalcohols comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms; esters of a saturated, linear or branched, carboxylic acid comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of a saturated, linear or branched, monoalcohol comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, the saturated carboxylic acids being optionally hydroxylated.The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims, comprising the solid fatty substance(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 25% by weight, especially from 1% to 20% by weight, better still from 2% to 18% by weight, preferentially from 3% to 15% by weight, even better still from 4% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims, in which the polyol(s) are chosen from polyols comprising from 2 to 30 hydroxy groups, better still from 2 to 10 hydroxy groups, preferentially from 2 to 3 hydroxy groups; preferably, comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, especially from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, better still from 2 to 6 carbon atoms; better still chosen from diglycerol, glycerol, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, octane-1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sugars such as glucose and mixtures thereof; preferably from glycerol, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, octane-1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof; and even better from glycerol, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof.The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims, in which the polyol(s) are present in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferentially ranging from 1% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims, in which the liquid fatty ester(s) are, alone or as a mixture, esters of a C1-C40, in particular C2-C32, even better still C3-C28, or even C4-C22, carboxylic acid, it being possible for said acid to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and optionally substituted, for example by one or more hydroxyl groups; and of a C1-C40, in particular C2-C32, even better still C3-C28, or even C4-C22, alcohol, it being possible for said alcohol to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and optionally substituted; one at least of the alcohol or the acid preferably being branched;in particular chosen from the esters of a linear or branched, saturated C1-C40, in particular C2-C32, even better still C3-C28, or even C4-C22, monoacid; and of a linear or branched, saturated C1-C40, in particular C2-C32, even better still C3-C28, or even C4-C22, monoalcohol; one at least of the alcohol or the acid being branched;especially chosen from the liquid esters of myristic acid, palmitic acid or stearic acid and of a C1-C5 monoalcohol, especially branched C3-C5 monoalcohol, and in particular isopropyl myristate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isobutyl stearate and mixtures thereof.The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims, comprising the liquid fatty ester(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, especially from 0.2% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 4% by weight, even better still from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims, in which the weight ratio of the total amount of polyol(s) to the total amount of liquid fatty ester(s) is between 1 and 1.5.The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims, comprising water, preferably in a total content of between 65% and 98% by weight, preferably between 70% and 95% by weight, preferentially between 75% and 92% by weight, even better still between 80% and 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more additional liquid fatty substances, preferably chosen from liquid hydrocarbons, non-(poly)oxyalkylenated liquid fatty alcohols, mineral oils, silicones and mixtures thereof; in particular aminosilicones.A process for cosmetic treatment, especially cleansing and / or conditioning, very particularly conditioning, of keratin materials, especially keratin fibers, in particular the hair, comprising a step of applying a cosmetic composition defined according to any one of the preceding claims to said keratin materials.The process as claimed in claim 13, comprising a step of rinsing the keratin materials, for example with water, carried out after the step of applying the composition.

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