Cosmetic compositions comprising porous waxy starches
Porous waxy corn starch with high amylopectin content addresses the need for talc replacement in cosmetics by offering superior sensory and functional performance, ensuring product integrity and user satisfaction.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2025-09-16
- Publication Date
- 2026-03-19
AI Technical Summary
The cosmetic industry seeks to replace talc in make-up formulations due to health concerns while maintaining sensory properties, mechanical resistance, and stability, with existing porous starches like N-Zorbit failing to meet these criteria.
Development of porous waxy corn starch with high amylopectin content (≥80%) that offers superior smoothness, resistance to fall, and environmental stability, outperforming talc in sensory and functional aspects.
The porous waxy corn starch achieves an optimal balance of mechanical resistance, environmental stability, and sensory properties, providing a smooth texture and enhanced resistance to fall, ensuring product integrity and user satisfaction.
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Abstract
Description
BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-IBDescriptionTitle: Cosmetic compositions comprising porous waxy starchesTechnical Field
[0001] This disclosure pertains to the field of cosmetic compositions.Background Art
[0002] In the cosmetic industry, there is a growing trend to replace sensorial absorbent mineral powders such as talc or mica. This shift is primarily driven by health concerns associated with talc usage.
[0003] Talc is a prevalent ingredient in many cosmetic products, particularly in make-up formulations where it typically constitutes 25 to 85 wt% of the composition. It is commonly found in compressed powder products such as face powder, foundation, blush, bronzer, highlighter, contour powder, eyeshadow, and setting powder. The cosmetic industry aims to either replace talc entirely or significantly reduce its proportion in these formulations.
[0004] Any potential talc replacer must meet or exceed the performance standards set by talc to ensure consumer satisfaction. Key attributes include:A pleasant sensorial profile, particularly in terms of smoothness.Stability of the cosmetic product formulated with the talc replacer, both in terms of visual appearance and cosmetic performance.Mechanical resistance to shocks, such as when the product is transported, handled, or accidentally dropped on a hard surface.Compatibility with a wide range of cosmetic formulations and manufacturing processes, to allow the preparation of a full range and type of products.
[0005] To the knowledge of the Applicant, it seems that there is only one porous starch available on the market as of September 2024, the product named “N-Zorbit” from Ingredion. This is a granulated powder of porous starch(es). It is made of agglomerates of porous starch granules. It is proposed for use as a plating agent, that is to say an ingredient that allows the transformation of a liquid composition in a powder form. Based on available data, the granulometric characteristics of N-Zorbit are: Dv(10) = 36pm, Dv(50) = 79pm, and Dv(90) = 135pm. As studied by the Applicant, this porous starch allows a good compaction but exhibits a very poor sensorial profile both as a loose powder and as a compacted powder: sensation of roughness is very high, certainly due to the hardness of the agglomerates of porous starch. Agglomeration negatively impacts sensory experience, causing rough texture and uneven application that compromises product performance
[0006] Thus, there is still a need to identify ingredients to formulate both compact powders and loose powders for a large range of cosmetic and care products, that achieve an optimal balance between mechanical resistance, environmental stability, and sensory properties. For compact powders, thisBR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-IB balance is crucial to ensure product integrity and performance. For loose powders, the formulation should present an optimal balance of desirable sensory characteristics, flowing properties, and absorption capacities for sebum and / or sweat, that matches or exceeds current standards, notably those set by talc. The goal is to develop powders that not only meet functional requirements and remains free of agglomerates, but also provide enhanced sensory experience for the user across various cosmetic applications.Summary
[0007] The inventors developed compact powder make-up formulations comprising porous waxy starch which demonstrate superior performance across all key evaluated parameters compared to prior art. These formulations exhibit exceptional stability of compaction under both normal (50% relative humidity) and challenging high-humidity conditions (4°C and 85% relative humidity), maintaining its structural integrity over extended periods. Furthermore, the compositions showcase improved smoothness and significantly enhanced resistance to fall, ensuring product consistency and user satisfaction. These properties translate to improved product longevity and reliability in real- world usage scenarios, such as in bathroom environments and daily transport.
[0008] Hence, and importantly, compact powders according to the invention achieve an ideal balance between mechanical resistance, environmental stability, and sensory properties. By optimizing this triad of characteristics, these compositions offer a compelling solution that does not compromise on any single aspect. The smooth texture and pleasant sensory attributes are maintained without sacrificing stability of compaction and resistance to fall.
[0009] Furthermore, porous waxy corn starch demonstrates excellent overall performance across the evaluated sensory properties, presenting a well-balanced profile for a loose powder cosmetic product. It shows superior or comparable results to the talc in most categories, while consistently outperforming porous standard corn, native waxy corn starch and native standard corn starch. Porous waxy corn starch excels particularly in the cushion effect, surpassing all other samples including the talc. In the categories of slippery, softness, and smoothness, porous waxy corn starch achieves scores that are either very close to or slightly lower than talc's, but still notably higher than porous standard corn starch, native waxy corn starch and native standard corn starch. Hence, porous waxy corn starch presents an optimal balance of desirable sensory characteristics, making it a strong contender in the loose powder cosmetic market, with performance that matches or exceeds the current standards set by the talc and clearly surpasses porous standard corn, native waxy corn sarch and native standard corn.
[0010] Furthermore, the porous waxy corn starch according to the present invention demonstrates mattifying properties that provides immediate matte finish and long-lasting control of the mattness, especially for the skin. These mattifying properties are even better than the ones of the talc as demonstrated herein in a comparative study.BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-IB
[0011] Hence, the present invention relates to a composition for cosmetic products, comprising at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch.
[0012] The invention also concerns a cosmetic product comprising the composition for cosmetic products. The invention also concerns a process for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratin materials such as the skin or the hair, and in particular the skin of the body, of the face, of the buttocks, especially the buttocks of the infant, of the periorbital area and of the eyelids, characterized in that it comprises the application to said keratin materials of a cosmetic product according to the invention.
[0013] The present invention also concerns a cosmetic or care assembly comprising:A container delimiting one or more compartment(s), said container being closed by a closing member, andA cosmetic product and / or care product according to the invention, placed inside said compartment(s).
[0014] Thanks to the specific process described above, the applicant has advantageously developed specific porous waxy starches, which can be advantageously used according to the invention. Thus, another object of the invention concerns a porous starch which is a rice starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, wherein said porous rice starch has: an average specific surface area, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with Barrett-Joyner-Halenda (BJH) model method, of more than 0.4 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.5 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.6 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.65 m2 / g, and / or an average visible pore diameter comprised between 0.1 to 4 microns, preferably between 0.05 and 2 microns, and / or an average pore volume, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model comprised between 5.0 and 8.0 mm3 / g, and / or a water content comprised between 8 and 15%, preferably between 8 and 13%, preferably between 10 and 12%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, and / or a degree of hydrolysis comprised between 5 and 35%, preferably between 7 and 30%, preferably between 8 and 25%, preferably between 9 and 16%, and / or a volumetric particle size distribution, measured by laser diffraction granulometry, the characteristic diameters, volume-weighted mean diameter (noted d[4;3]) and diameters at 10th, 50th, and 90th percentiles (noted d(10), d(50) and d(90)), of which are such that: the volume-weighted mean diameter d[4;3] is of less than 20 microns, most preferably comprised between 5 and 8 microns,BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-IBThe diameter at 10th percentile d(10) is of less than 10 microns, most preferably comprised between 3 and 4 microns,The diameter at 50th percentile d(50) is of less than 20 microns, most preferably comprised between 5 and 8 microns,The diameter at 90th percentile d(90) is of less than 120 microns, preferably of less than 50 microns, preferably is comprised between 1 and 40 microns, or preferably between 5 and 30 microns, or preferably between 6 and 25 microns, or preferably between 8 and 20 microns, most preferably between 10 and 18 microns, and / or an elastic recovery of less than 15.0 %, preferably less than 14.5 %, when a compression of10 kN is applied and / or an elastic recovery of less than 12.5 %, preferably of less than 12.0 %, when a compression of 5 kN is applied.
[0015] In another aspect, the invention also relates to a porous corn starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, wherein said porous corn starch has: an average specific surface area, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with Barrett-Joyner-Halenda (BJH) model method, of more than 0.4 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.5 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.6 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.65 m2 / g, and / or an average visible pore diameter comprised between 0.1 to 4 microns, preferably between 0.05 and 2 microns, and / or an average pore volume, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model, comprised between 2.0 and 5.0 mm3 / g, and / or a water content comprised between 6 and 15 %, preferably between 8 and 13 %, preferably between 9 and 11 %, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, and / or a degree of hydrolysis comprised between 5 and 35%, preferably between 8 and 25%, preferably between 10 and 20%, preferably between 11 and 20% and preferably between1 1 and 16%, and / or a volumetric particle size distribution, measured by laser diffraction granulometry, the characteristic diameters, volume-weighted mean diameter (noted d[4;3]) and diameters at 10th, 50th, and 90thpercentiles (noted d(10), d(50) and d(90)), of which are such that: the volume-weighted mean diameter d[4;3] is comprised between 1 and 40 microns, or preferably between 5 and 30, or preferably between 8 and 25 microns, or preferably between 10 and 20 microns,BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-IB the diameter at 10thpercentile d(10) is comprised between 1 and 15 microns, or preferably between 4 and 12, or preferably between 5 and 10 microns, or preferably between 8 and 9 microns,The diameter at 50thpercentile d(50) is comprised between 5 and 25 microns, or preferably between 10 and 20 microns, or preferably between 12 and 16 microns, or preferably between 13 and 15 microns,The diameter at 90thpercentile d(90) is of less than 250 microns, preferably of less than 100 microns, preferably is comprised between 10 and 40 microns, preferably between 15 and 37 microns, preferably between 21 and 35 microns, preferably between 22 and 30 microns, preferably between 23 and 27 microns , and / or an elastic recovery of less than 16%, preferably less than 15.5%, preferably less than 15 %, when a compression of 10 kN is applied, and / or an elastic recovery of less than 15%, preferably less than 14.5%, preferably less than 14%, when a compression of 5kN is applied.
[0016] Finally, the invention relates to the use of at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, preferentially greater than 85%, preferably greater than 90%, preferably greater than 95%, preferably greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, as a sensory bulking agent and / or as a mattifying agent.Detailed description
[0017] Embodiments
[0018] Embodiment 1 : Composition for cosmetic products, comprising at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch.
[0019] Embodiment 2: The composition according to embodiment 1 , wherein the porous starch has an amylopectin content greater than 85% relative to the total weight of the porous starch.
[0020] Embodiment 3: The composition according to embodiment 1 , wherein the porous starch has an amylopectin content greater than 90% relative to the total weight of the porous starch.
[0021] Embodiment 4: The composition according to embodiment 1 , wherein the porous starch has an amylopectin content greater than 95% relative to the total weight of the porous starch.
[0022] Embodiment 5: The composition according to embodiment 1 , wherein the porous starch has an amylopectin content greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch.
[0023] Embodiment 6: The composition according to any of embodiments 1 to 5, wherein the starch is selected among the group consisting of tapioca starch, corn starch, pea starch, potato starch, wheat starch, mung bean starch, rice starch, sweet potato starch, millet starch, sago starch, sorghum starch, quinoa starch, arrowroot starch, amaranth starch, lotus root starch and buckwheat starch, and is preferably selected among corn starch and rice starch, and mixtures thereof.BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-IB
[0024] Embodiment 7: The composition according to anyone of embodiments 1 to 6, wherein the at least one porous starch has:- an average specific surface area, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model, of more than 0.4 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.5 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.6 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.65 m2 / g, and / or- an average visible pore diameter between 0.05 to 4 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 0.05 and 2 micrometers (pm) (microns), and / or,- an average pore volume, measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with the Barrett, Joyner and Halenda model (BJH model), comprised between 2.0 and 8.0 mm3 / g.
[0025] Embodiment 8: The composition according to anyone of embodiments 1 to 7, wherein the at least one porous starch has a water content comprised between 3 and 20%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, preferably between 5 and 18%, preferably between 6.5 and 16.5%, preferably between 6 and 15 %, preferably between 7.5 and 15.5%, preferably between 8 and 15%, preferably between 10 and 13%, and more preferably between 9 and 12%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch.
[0026] Embodiment 9: The composition according to anyone of embodiments 1 to 8, wherein the degree of hydrolysis of said at least one porous starch is comprised between 5 and 35%, preferably between 7 and 30%, preferably between 8 and 25%, preferably between 9 and 16%.
[0027] Embodiment 10: The composition according to anyone of embodiments 1 to 9, wherein the characteristic diameters d[4;3], d(10), d(50) and d(90), measured by laser diffraction granulometry, of said at least one porous starch are such that:- The d[4;3] is less than or equal to 30 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than or equal to 25 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than or equal to 20 micrometers (pm) (microns),- The diameter d(10) is of less than or equal to 15 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than or equal to 12 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than or equal to 10 micrometers (pm) (microns),- The diameter d(50) is of less than or equal to 25 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than or equal to 20 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than or equal to 15 micrometers (pm) (microns),
[0028] - The diameter d(90) is of less than or equal to 40 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than or equal to 30 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than or equal to 27 micrometers (pm) (microns).
[0029] Embodiment 1 1 : The composition according to anyone of embodiments 1 to 10, wherein said composition comprising from 0.1 to 100% of said at least one porous starch.
[0030] Embodiment 12: The composition according to embodiment 11 , wherein the composition comprises at least one further ingredient chosen from flow agents, or mixture thereof.BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-IB
[0031] Embodiment 13: Cosmetic product comprising the composition for cosmetic products as described in any of embodiments 1 to 12.
[0032] Embodiment 14: Cosmetic product consisting essentially of the composition as described in any of embodiments 1 to 12.
[0033] Embodiment 15: The cosmetic product according to embodiment 14, further comprising other ingredients chosen from fillers, dry binders, coloring agents, sensorial agents, flow agents, fragrances, cosmetic active ingredients and mixture thereof.
[0034] Embodiment 16: Cosmetic product consisting in the composition as described in any of embodiments 1 to 12, and at least one ingredient chosen from fillers, dry binders, coloring agents, sensorial agents, flow agents, fragrances, cosmetic active ingredients, and mixture thereof.
[0035] Embodiment 17: The cosmetic product according to any embodiments 13 to 16, wherein said cosmetic product comprises from 0.1 to 99.9% of a composition for cosmetic products as described in any of embodiments 1 to 12, preferably between 50 and 99.9%, preferably between 85 and 99.9%, relative to the total weight of said cosmetic product.
[0036] Embodiment 18: The cosmetic product according to any of embodiments 13 to 17, wherein said cosmetic product is chosen from cleansing products, hair care products, oral care products, sun care products, skin care products, make-up products, feminine care products, nail care products, shaving and hair removal products, men’s grooming products, bath and shower products, deodorants and antiperspirants, eye care products and / or hygiene products.
[0037] Embodiment 19: The cosmetic product according to embodiment 18, wherein said cosmetic product is chosen from make-up products, skin care products, hair care products, or oral care products.
[0038] Embodiment 20: The cosmetic product according to embodiment 19, wherein said cosmetic product is a make-up product.
[0039] Embodiment 21 : The cosmetic product according to any embodiments 13 to 20, wherein said cosmetic product is a solid cosmetic product.
[0040] Embodiment 22: The cosmetic product according to embodiment 21 , wherein the solid cosmetic product is chosen from a compact powder, a free-flowing powder, a semi free-flowing powder and a granulated powder.
[0041] Embodiment 23: The cosmetic product according to embodiment 22, wherein the solid cosmetic product is a free-flowing powder.
[0042] Embodiment 24: The cosmetic product according to embodiment 23, wherein the free-flowing powder is chosen from translucent setting powder, foundation powder, finishing powder, blotting powder, color correcting powder, bronzing powder, highlighting powder, blush powder, contour powder, shimmer powder, mattifying powder, sunscreen powder, dry shampoo powder, body powder, foot powder, perfumed dusting powder, glitter powder, volumizing hair powder, texturizing hairBR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-IB powder, root touch-up powder, hair lightening powder, scalp soothing powder, baby powder, diaper rash powder, tooth powder, deodorant powder, cooling powder, sweat-absorbing powder, makeup brush cleaning powder, facial mask powder and exfoliating powder.
[0043] Embodiment 25: The cosmetic product according to embodiment 23, wherein the solid cosmetic product is a compact powder.
[0044] Embodiment 26: The cosmetic product according to embodiment 25, wherein the compact powder is chosen from face powder, foundation, primer, blush, bronzer, highlighter, contour powder, eyeshadow, setting powder, finishing powder, color-correcting powder, mattifying powder, oil-control powder, sun protection powder, illuminating powder, powder concealer, all-in-one powder palette, shimmer powder for body and face, eyebrow powder, compact dry shampoo, pressed hair volumizing powder, compact root touch-up powder, pressed scalp treatment powder, compact hair color touch- up, pressed dandruff control powder, compact hair shine powder, pressed leave-in hair treatment, compact foot powder, pressed deodorant powder, compact antiperspirant powder, compact perfumed body powder, pressed after-sun powder, compact baby powder, pressed diaper rash powder, and make-up removal powder.
[0045] Embodiment 27: A process for the cosmetic treatment of the skin and / or the hair of the body, in particular of the face, of the buttocks, especially the butt cheeks of the infant, of the periorbital area and of the eyelids, of the lips, said process comprising the application to said skin and / or hair of a cosmetic product as described in any of embodiments 13 to 26.
[0046] Embodiment 28: The process according to embodiment 27, wherein said cosmetic treatment is the care, the cleansing, the conditioning, the make-up, or the perfuming.
[0047] Embodiment 29: The process according to embodiment 28, wherein said cosmetic treatment is the make-up.
[0048] Embodiment 30: A cosmetic assembly comprising:- A container having one or more compartment(s), said container presenting a closing member, and- One or more cosmetic products as described in anyone of embodiments 13 to 26, placed inside said compartment(s).
[0049] Embodiment 31 : The cosmetic assembly according to embodiment 30 wherein the cosmetic product is a make-up product.
[0050] Embodiment 32: A porous rice starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, wherein said porous rice starch has:- an average specific surface area, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with the BJH model, of more than 0.4 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.5 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.6 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.65 m2 / g, andBR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-IB- an average visible pore diameter comprised between 0.05 and 4 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 0.05 and 2 micrometers (pm) (microns), and- an average pore volume, measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model, comprised between 5.0 and 8.0 mm3 / g, preferably between 5.50 and 7.0 mm3 / g, preferably between 5.50 and 6.50 mm3 / g, preferably between 6.00 and 6.50 mm3 / g, and- a water content comprised between 8 and 15%, preferably between 8 and 13%, preferably between 10 and 12%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, and- a degree of hydrolysis comprised between 5 and 35%, preferably between 7 and 30%, preferably between 8 and 25%, preferably between 9 and 16%, and- a volumetric particle size distribution, measured by laser diffraction granulometry, the characteristic diameters d[4;3], d(10), d(50) and d(90) of which are such that:- The d[4;3] is comprised between 1 and 20 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 3 and 15, or preferably between 4 and 10 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 5 and 8 micrometers (pm) (microns),- The diameter at 10thpercentiles d(10) is comprised between 1 and 10 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 2 and 6 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 2 and 5 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably comprised between 3 and 4 micrometers (pm) (microns),- The diameter at 50thpercentiles d(50) is comprised between 1 and 20 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 2 and 12 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably comprised between 4 and 10 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably comprised between 5 and 8 micrometers (pm) (microns),- The diameter at 90thpercentiles d(90) is comprised between 1 and 40 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 5 and 30 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 6 and 25 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 8 and 20 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 10 and 18 micrometers (pm) (microns), and- an elastic recovery of less than 15%, preferably less than 14.5 %, when a compression of 10kN is applied, and- an elastic recovery of less than 12.5 %, preferably of less than 12.0 %, when a compression of 5 kN is applied.
[0051] Embodiment 33: A porous corn starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, wherein said porous corn starch has:- an average specific surface area, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with the BJH model, of more than 0.4 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.5 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.6 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.65 m2 / g, andBR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-IB- an average visible pore diameter comprised between 0.05 and 4 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 0.05 and 2 micrometers (pm) (microns), and- an average pore volume, measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model, comprised between 2.0 and 5.0 mm3 / g, preferably between 2.5 and 4.5 mm3 / g, preferably between 3.0 and 4.0 mm3 / g, preferably between 3.50 and 4.00 mm3 / g, and- a water content comprised between 6 and 15%, preferably between 8 and 13%, preferably between 9 and 11 %, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, and- a degree of hydrolysis comprised between 5 and 35%, preferably between 8 and 25%, preferably between 10 and 20%, preferably between 11 and 20%, preferably between 11 and 16%, and- a volumetric particle size distribution, measured by laser diffraction granulometry, the characteristic diameters d[4;3], d(10), d(50) and d(90) of which are such that:- The d[4;3] is comprised between 1 and 40 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 5 and 30, or preferably between 8 and 25 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 10 and 20 micrometers (pm) (microns),- The diameter at 10thpercentiles d(10) is comprised between 1 and 15 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 4 and 12, or preferably between 5 and 10 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 8 and 9 micrometers (pm) (microns),- The diameter at 50thpercentiles d(50) is comprised between 5 and 25 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 10 and 20 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 12 and 16 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 13 and 15 micrometers (pm) (microns),- The diameter at 90thpercentiles d(90) is comprised between 10 and 40 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 15 and 37 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 21 and 35 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 22 and 30 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 23 and 27 micrometers (pm) (microns), and- an elastic recovery of less than 16%, preferably less than 15.5%, preferably less than 15 %, when a compression of 10 kN is applied, and- an elastic recovery of less than 15%, preferably less than 14.5%, preferably less than 14%, when a compression of 5kN is applied.
[0052] Embodiment 34: Use of at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, preferentially greater than 85%, preferably greater than 90%, preferably greater than 95%, preferably greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, as a sensory bulking agent and / or as a mattifying agent.BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-IB
[0053] Embodiment 35: Use according to embodiment 34, wherein the at least one porous starch is a mattifying agent.
[0054] Embodiment 36: Use according to embodiment 35, wherein the at least one porous starch provides a mattifying effect on the skin or the hair.
[0055] Embodiment 37: Use according to embodiment 36, wherein the mattifying effect consists in providing an immediate matte finish to the skin or the hair, preferably to the skin.
[0056] Embodiment 38: Use according to embodiment 37, wherein the immediate matte finish is a decrease of the immediate skin gloss after application of a cosmetic as described in any of the embodiments 13 to 26 on the skin, of at least 10%, preferably at least 20%, preferably at least 25%, preferably at least 30%, compared to the nude skin, as measured by the “in-vitro artifical skin” protocol of the present application.
[0057] Embodiment 39: Use according to embodiment 38, wherein the immediate skin gloss is the gloss of the skin 8 minutes at most after application of a cosmetic product as described in any of the embodiments 13 to 26 on the skin, preferably 6 minutes at most, preferably 4 minutes at most, preferably at 3 minutes at most, preferably 2 minutes at most, preferably 1 minute at most, preferably 0.5 minute at most.
[0058] Embodiment 40: Use according to any of the embodiments 36 to 39, wherein the mattiyfing effect also consists in providing a long-lasting control of the mattness of the skin.
[0059] Embodiment 41 : Use according to embodiment 40, wherein the long-lasting control of the mattness of the skin consists in an increase of the gloss of the skin after application of a cosmetic product as described in any of the embodiments 13 to 26 on the skin, at values equal to from 50 to 90% of the increase of the gloss of nude skin, preferably from 60 to 80%, preferably from 65 to 75%, preferably from 66 to 73%, as measured by the “in-vitro artifical skin” protocol of the present application.
[0060] Embodiment 42: Use according to any of the embodiments 34 to 42, wherein the at least one porous starch is as described in any of the embodiments 32 or 33.
[0061] In a first aspect, the present invention relates to a composition for cosmetic products, comprising at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch.
[0062] Composition for cosmetic products
[0063] As used herein, a "composition for cosmetic products" refers to a formulation that is suitable for providing a cosmetic product. This composition can serve as the pre-mix of a cosmetic product. It is designed to be physiologically acceptable, meaning it is compatible with the skin and / or its integuments and the hair, has a pleasant color, odor, and feel, and does not cause any unacceptable discomfort (such as stinging or tautness) that would discourage the consumer from using the product.BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-IB
[0064] In the context of this invention, a "composition for cosmetic products" specifically includes formulations that incorporate at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80% relative to the total weight of the porous starch. These compositions can be in various forms, including but not limited to solid forms, in particular powder form.
[0065] Such compositions may also include additional ingredients such as flow agents, depending on the specific application and desired properties of the cosmetic products.
[0066] Physiologically acceptable
[0067] The term “physiologically acceptable” means compatible with the skin and / or its integuments, which has a pleasant color, odor and fell, and which does not cause any unacceptable discomfort (stinging or tautness) liable to discourage the consumer from using this composition. Typically, the “physiologically acceptable medium” can be
[0068] Amylose and amylopectin content of starch
[0069] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch has an amylopectin content greater than 80 %, or greater than 85%, or greater than 90%, or greater than 95%, or greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch.
[0070] As used herein, the term porous waxy starch means a porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 %, or greater than 85%, or greater than 90%, or greater than 95%, or greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch.
[0071] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch has an amylopectin content greater than 90%, or preferably greater than 95%, or more preferably greater than 99%.
[0072] Determining the amylopectin content in starch typically involves potentiometric titration using iodine solution. Initially, the starch sample is defatted using methanol. The deffated starch is solubilized in KOH solution followed by neutralization using HCI solution. The solubilized starch solution is mixed with potassium iodide and then titrated using diluted iodine solution. Amylose can form complex with Iodine, and thus the amount of amylose can be determined based on the amount of complexed iodine. Since starch is mainly made up of amylose and amylopectin, the amylopectin content is then calculated by subtracting the amylose content from 100%.
[0073] Botanical origin
[0074] The starch may be selected from all existing botanical origins, in particular those existing in nature, chosen from corn starch, rice starch, tapioca starch, potato starch, pea starch, wheat starch, mung bean starch, sweet potato starch, millet starch, sago starch, sorghum starch, quinoa starch, arrowroot starch, amaranth starch, lotus root starch, buckwheat starch, barley starch, oat starch, chestnut starch, taro starch, yam starch, banana starch, kudzu starch, plantain starch, jackfruit seed starch, lotus seed starch, acorn starch and mixtures thereof.
[0075] In a preferred embodiment, the starch may be chosen from corn starch, rice starch, tapioca starch, pea starch, wheat starch, mung bean starch, sweet potato starch, millet starch, sago starch,BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-IB sorghum starch, barley oat, oat starch, quinoa starch, arrowroot starch, amaranth starch, lotus root starch, buckwheat starch, and mixtures thereof.
[0076] According to one embodiment, the starch is chosen from corn starch, rice starch, tapioca starch. In a preferred embodiment, the starch is selected among corn starch, rice starch, and mixtures thereof. In a yet preferred embodiment, the starch is corn starch (also sometimes named maize starch).
[0077] Porous starch
[0078] The porous starch is a granular starch, constituted of granules having pores wherein the pores can be in the form of holes present on the surface of the starch and / or in the form of interconnected cavities inside the starch granules. “Granular” means the starch is made of individual particles, the granules, which have the shape of the native starch granules, and which also have an internal structure identical or close to the one of native starch. In particular, the granular porous starch still exhibits birefringence visible by microscopy under polarized light, often referred to as the “Maltese cross”.
[0079] Pores can also be referred to as cavities or holes and can be used interchangeably.
[0080] The surface morphology of porous granules, and the size and structure of the pores can be analyzed with Scanning Electron Microscopy.
[0081] Observing starch using Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) involves a series of meticulous preparation steps followed by imaging. Initially, the starch sample must be dehydrated to remove any moisture that could interfere with the vacuum conditions inside the SEM chamber. The dry starch sample is then mounted on a specimen stub, often using a conductive adhesive to ensure it stays in place and to enhance conductivity. To prevent charging under the electron beam, a thin conductive coating, typically gold or platinum, is sputter-coated onto the sample. The prepared sample is placed into the SEM chamber, which is evacuated to create a high vacuum. Once the sample is in the chamber, an electron beam scans the surface of the starch granules. The interactions between the electron beam and the sample generate various signals, including secondary electrons that are collected to form high-resolution images of the starch granules. These images provide detailed information about the surface morphology, size, and structure of the starch granules, revealing features such as shape, surface texture, including the pores on the surface, and any structural irregularities.
[0082] Any porous starch can be used in the present invention, provided the porous starch has an amylopectin content greater than 80 %, or greater than 85%, or greater than 95%, or greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch.
[0083] As used herein, “porous starch” refers to starch granules, preferably corn starch granules or rice starch granules, having an amylopectin content greater than 80 %, or greater than 85%, or greater than 95%, or greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, having:BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-IBAn average specific surface area, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model, of more than 0.4 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.5 m2 / g.
[0084] In an embodiment, “porous starch” refers to starch granules, preferably corn starch granules or rice starch granules, having an amylopectin content greater than 80 %, or greater than 85%, or greater than 95%, or greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, having:An average specific surface area, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model, of more than 0.4 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.5 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.6 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.65 m2 / g, and / orAn average visible pore diameter comprised between 0.05 and 4 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 0.05 and 2 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 0.2 and 1 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 0.2 and 0.6 micrometers (pm) (microns) and / orAn average pore volume, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model, of at least 2.0 mm3 / g, preferably at least 2.5 mm3 / g, more preferably at least 3.0 mm3 / g, most preferably at least 3.5 mm3 / g, and most preferably at least 3.5 mm3 / g.
[0085] In a preferred embodiment, “porous starch” refers to starch granules, preferably corn starch granules, having an amylopectin content greater than 80 %, or greater than 85%, or greater than 95%, or greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, having:An average specific surface area, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model, of more than 0.4 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.5 m2 / g, and / orAn average visible pore diameter comprised between 0.05 and 4 micrometers (pm) (micrometers (pm) (microns)), preferably between 0.05 and 2 micrometers (pm) (micrometers (pm) (microns)), preferably between 0.2 and 1 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 0.2 and 0.6 micrometers (pm) (microns) and / orAn average pore volume, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model, of at least 2.0 mm3 / g, preferably at least 2.5 mm3 / g.
[0086] The presence of a visible pore structure is further confirmed by scanning electron microscopy (SEM), which reveals surface and / or internal cavities or holes within the starch granules.
[0087] Typically, porous starch described in WO2021 / 144245 and in US 4,551 ,177 can be used.
[0088] Moreover, the applicant has also developed specific porous starch as described hereinafter.
[0089] Method for obtaining porous starch
[0090] Porous starch can be obtained by any method suitable to modify starch while being and staying in a granular state, so as to create pores in the structure of the granular starch. The granular state of the starch may also be referred to as “non-cooked” by the person skilled in the art of starchBR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-IB processing, meaning the starch did not undergo any “cooking”, i.e. did not undergo neither pregelatinization nor gelatinization.
[0091] The porosity can be more or less extensive. The porosity is less extensive when the pores are merely present on the surface of the starch granules. The porosity is extensive when the pores are in the form of interconnecting cavities inside the starch granules. Any porosity between these two extremes can be obtained by adjusting the production method.
[0092] The present invention is directed to porous starches having a defined pore structure, as evidenced - at least - by a specific surface area of at least 0.4 m2 / g. Suitable methods for producing such porous starches includePhysical methods such as mechanical impact, microwave or ultrasound,Chemical methods such as solvent exchange such as direct drying or supercritical drying, acid hydrolysis, molecular insertion,Enzymatic method such as individual enzyme hydrolysis, combined enzyme hydrolysis,Synergic methods such as enzyme hydrolysis combined with ultrasound or crosslinking, extrusion, freeze-thawing, heat-moisture.
[0093] Such methods are known by the one skilled in the art who can refers, for example, to Chen et al. “Preparation, characterization, physicochemical property and potential application of porous starch: A review", International Journal of Biological Macromolecules 148 (2020) 1169-1181.
[0094] In contrast, inhibition or crosslinking processes — such as the alkaline / alcoholic inhibition described in US 11 129 402 — do not create the required porosity and are not considered suitable methods for producing porous starches within the meaning of the present invention.
[0095] Hence, only those processes that demonstrably result in starch granules having at least a specific surface area of at least 0.4 m2 / g are considered suitable for the purposes of this invention.
[0096] Any process that does not meet these criteria, regardless of the reagents or conditions used, is not within the scope of the present invention.
[0097] According to another embodiment, the hydrolysis is performed on a granular starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % by any combination of any method of porosification listed above, in particular by combining an acid hydrolysis and an enzymatic hydrolysis, and preferably by performing enzymatic hydrolysis only. The enzymatic hydrolysis is preferred because it is an environmentally friendly process that saves quantities of energy and chemicals, and is an efficient process that allows for good control of the level of hydrolysis.
[0098] In an embodiment, the method for obtaining the pores is an enzymatic method, preferably an enzymatic method using amylases, preferably a-amylase (EC 3.2.1 .1), below the gelatinization temperature of starch.BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-IB
[0099] The principle of starch porosification by enzymes is that the enzyme either drill holes into the starch granules, or enlarge pre-existing holes, by hydrolyzing the starch molecules into smaller molecules like glucose, maltose, and oligosaccharides, thereby creating or increasing the void space inside the granules of starch. The hydrolysis of the starch granules does not occur evenly over all the outer layer of starch constituting the surface of the granules. Instead, there are spots where the enzymes actually drill holes, which creates a distribution of holes over the entire surface of the granules, and then continues to digest the starch inside the granule, thus creating or increasing its porosity.
[0100] In an embodiment, the starch is a starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80%, or greater than 85 %, or greater than 90%, or greater than 95%, or greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch.
[0101] The present invention also concerns a process for obtaining a porous starch, the process comprising the following steps:Preparing a slurry of granular starch in demineralized water and increasing the temperature below the starch gelatinization temperature,Adjusting the pH between 5 and 7,Adding an a-amylase to the starch slurry while mixing,Incubating at temperature below the starch gelatinization temperature, e.g. 40°C for waxy rice starch and 50°C for waxy corn starch, until reaching hydrolysis degree between 10% and 15%,Deactivating the enzyme by adjusting the pH to between 3 and 3.5 and allowing it to react for at least 30 minutes while stirring and cooling to room temperature,Neutralizing the slurry to a pH comprised between 5 and 6,Collecting the porous starch obtained, for instance by filtration, and washing,Drying the porous starch obtained,And, if necessary, sieve and / or grind the dry porous starch obtained.
[0102] Specific surface area
[0103] The specific surface area is the surface available for gas or liquid molecules. It includes the external as well as the internal surface of a solid body such as starch granule.
[0104] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch has an average specific surface area, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with the Barrett-Joyner-Halenda (noted BJH) model, of more than 0.4 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.5 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.6 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.65 m2 / g.BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-IB
[0105] In a most preferred embodiment, at least one porous starch has an average specific surface area, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with the Barrett-Joyner-Halenda (noted BJH) model, of more than 0.4 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.5 m2 / g.
[0106] In one embodiment, the porous starch has an average specific surface area, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with the BJH model, between 0.4 and 1 .2 m2 / g, preferably between 0.5 and 1.0 m2 / g, preferably between 0.6 and 0.9 m2 / g.
[0107] In a most preferred embodiment, porous starch has an average specific surface area, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with the BJH model, between 0.4 and 1.2 m2 / g, preferably between 0.5 and 1.0 m2 / g.
[0108] Nitrogen adsorption sorptometry is a technique used in materials science to measure the amount of nitrogen gas adsorbed onto and desorbed from a material's surface at different relative pressures, typically at 77 K. This produces an adsorption isotherm that helps determine surface area, pore volume, and pore size distribution. The Barrett-Joyner-Halenda (BJH) model is employed to analyze the desorption branch of the isotherm, focusing on mesoporous materials (pores 2-50 nm). By integrating the area under the pore size distribution curve, the average pore volume and average surface area can be estimated.
[0109] Average visible pore diameter
[0110] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch has an average visible pore diameter comprised between 0.05 to 4 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 0.05 and 2 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 0.2 and 1 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 0.2 and 0.6 micrometers (pm) (microns).
[0111] When the phrase “comprised between [a first value] and [a second value]” is used in this patent application, it is understood that the boundaries are included in the indicated range.”
[0112] The average visible pore diameter refers to the average value of the diameter of the pores visible on the surface of the porous starch granule, measured using Scanning Electron Microscopy.
[0113] On the basis of the criterion of IUPAC, macropores refer to pores with the hole diameter larger than 50 nm, mesopores represent pores with, the hole diameter between 2 nm and 50 nm, while micropores possess, the hole diameter smaller than 2 nm.
[0114] Hence, according to the criterion of IUPAC, porous starch according to the invention have macropores.
[0115] Average pore volume
[0116] The average volume is measured by the well-known method of sorptometry by nitrogen adsorption and application of the Barrett, Joyner and Halenda model, herein “BJH” model. It refers to the total void space within the porous starch.BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-IB
[0117] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch has an average pore volume comprised between 2.0 and 8.0 mm3 / g, preferably between 2.5 and 7.0 mm3 / g, preferably between 3.0 and 6.5 mm3 / g, preferably between 3.50 and 6.50 mm3 / g.
[0118] In a preferred embodiment, at least one porous starch has an average pore volume comprised between 2.0 and 8.0 mm3 / g, preferably between 2.5 and 7.0 mm3 / g.
[0119] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one porous starch is a porous waxy corn starch having an average pore volume comprised between 2.0 and 5.0 mm3 / g, preferably between 2.5 and 4.5 mm3 / g, preferably between 3.0 and 4.0 mm3 / g, preferably between 3.50 and 4.00 mm3 / g.
[0120] In a preferred embodiment, at least one porous starch is a porous waxy corn starch having an average pore volume comprised between 2.0 and 5.0 mm3 / g, preferably between 2.5 and 4.5 mm3 / g.
[0121] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one porous starch is a porous waxy rice starch having an average pore volume comprised between 5.0 and 8.0 mm3 / g, preferably between 5.50 and 7.0 mm3 / g, preferably between 5.50 and 6.50 mm3 / g, preferably between 6.00 and 6.50 mm3 / g.
[0122] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one porous starch is a porous waxy rice starch having an average pore volume comprised between 5.0 and 8.0 mm3 / g, preferably between 5.50 and 7.0 mm3 / g.
[0123] Average pore diameter
[0124] The average pore diameter is measured by the well-known method of sorptometry by nitrogen adsorption and application of the Barrett, Joyner and Halenda model, herein “BJH” model.
[0125] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch has an average pore diameter comprised between 100 and 1000 Angstroms, preferably between 200 and 800 Angstroms, preferably between 400 and 700 Angstroms.
[0126] Water content
[0127] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch has a water content comprised between 3 and 20%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, preferably between 5 and 18%, preferably between 6.5 and 16.5%, preferably between 6 and 15 %, preferably between 7.5 and 15.5%, preferably between 8 and 15%, preferably between 10 and 13%, and more preferably between 9 and 12%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch
[0128] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one porous starch is a porous waxy corn starch. In this embodiment, the at least one porous waxy corn starch has a water content comprised between 6 and 15%, preferably between 8 and 13%, preferably between 9 and 11 %, relative to the total weight of the porous starch.
[0129] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one porous starch is a porous waxy rice starch. In this embodiment, the at least one porous waxy rice starch has a water content comprised between 8 andBR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-IB15%, preferably between 8 and 13%, preferably between 10 and 12%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch.
[0130] The usual method for measuring the water content of starch is is using a moisture analyzer, such as Mettler Toledo Halogen Moisture Analyzer HE73. The starch sample (between 3.5 and 5.0 g) is heated at 130°C, and the moisture loss is recorded when the weight becomes constant. .
[0131] Degree of hydrolysis
[0132] In an embodiment, the degree of hydrolysis of said at least one porous starch is comprised between 5 and 35%, preferably between 7 and 30%, preferably between 8 and 25%, preferably between 9 and 20%, preferably between 9 and 16%.
[0133] The determination of the degree of hydrolysis is as follows. A refractometer, such as Atago PAL-1 , is used to measure the concentration of soluble sugars in the starch slurry during the enzymatic hydrolysis producing porous starch at different time points, including 0 min, by placing a drop of starch slurry on the cell of the refractometer. The refractometer reading gives a value called “degree Brix”. This value results from the solution's refractive index measured by the refractometer, and it correlates directly to the percentage of dissolved sugar, i.e. soluble sugars, by weight as follows: for a given sample, 1 degree Brix is equal to a sucrose concentration of 1 g per 100 gram of solution. Before the measurement, the refractometer is zeroed using demineralized water. The concentration of soluble sugars is then converted to the degree of hydrolysis in order to control the extent of the enzymatic hydrolysis:
[0134] Degree of hydrolysis at t min = 100 x (total liquid weight x concentration of soluble sugars at t min) / dry starch weight
[0135] Where:- Total liquid weight can be obtained as the difference between total starch slurry weight and dry starch weight. Dry starch weight is the weight of the raw starch minus its moisture content. This is calculated at tO on the basis of the values of materials engaged into the hydrolysis, and it is then supposed to be almost constant during the hydrolysis.- The concentration of soluble sugars at t min is calculated as the difference between the concentration of total solubles at t min and that at 0 min, measured by refractometer, i.e. the difference: degree Brix at t min - degree Brix at 0 min. The reading at 0 min is important as the zero point because there is other soluble materials in the starch slurry that can affect the reading.
[0136] Granulometry
[0137] The porous waxy starch according to the present invention occurs in the form of granules. The particle size of the porous starch granules may be further reduced by sieving, grinding, homogenization and / or micronization. The granulometry of the starch granules, either native or porous, is usually determined using a laser diffraction granulometer, operated in dry phase and withBR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 B the Mie model, and is usually expressed in volume, i.e. is usually volume-weighed, which is also called “volume-based”.
[0138] In an embodiment, the characteristic diameters, volume-weighted mean diameter (d[4;3]) and diameters at 10th, 50th, and 90thpercentiles (d(10), d(50) and d(90)), measured by laser diffraction granulometry, of said at least one porous starch are such that:The d[4;3] is less than or equal to 30 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than or equal to 25 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than or equal to 20 micrometers (pm) (microns),The diameter at 10thpercentiles d(10) is of less than or equal to 15 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than or equal to 12 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than or equal to 10 micrometers (pm) (microns),The diameter at 50thpercentiles d(50) is of less than or equal to 25 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than or equal to 20 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than or equal to 15 micrometers (pm) (microns),The diameter at 90thpercentiles d(90) is of less than or equal to 40 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than or equal to 30 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than or equal to 27 micrometers (pm) (microns).
[0139] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch is a porous corn starch. In this embodiment, the characteristic diameters, volume-weighted mean diameter (d[4;3]) and diameters at 10th, 50th, and 90thpercentiles (d(10), d(50) and d(90)), measured by laser diffraction granulometry, of said at least one porous corn starch are such that:The d[4;3] is comprised between 1 and 40 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 5 and 30, or preferably between 8 and 25 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 10 and 20 micrometers (pm) (microns),The diameter at 10thpercentiles d(10) is comprised between 1 and 15 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 4 and 12, or preferably between 5 and 10 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 8 and 9 micrometers (pm) (microns),The diameter at 50thpercentiles d(50) is comprised between 5 and 25 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 10 and 20 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 12 and 16 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 13 and 15 micrometers (pm) (microns),The diameter at 90thpercentiles d(90) is comprised between 10 and 40 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 15 and 37 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 21 and 35 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 22 and 30 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 23 and 27 micrometers (pm) (microns).BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-IB
[0140] In an embodiment, the characteristic diameters, diameters at 10th, 50th, and 90th percentiles (d(10), d(50) and d(90)), measured by laser diffraction granulometry, of said at least one porous starch are such that:- The diameter at 10th percentiles d(10) is comprised between 3 and 9 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 3.5 and 9 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 3.6 and 8.9 micrometers (pm) (microns),- The diameter at 50th percentiles d(50) is comprised between 10 and 18 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 10.5 and 17.5 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 1 1 and 17 micrometers (pm) (microns),- The diameter at 90th percentiles d(90) is comprised between 17 and 40 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 17 and 39 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 17 and 38.5 micrometers (pm) (microns).
[0141] In this embodiment, the at least one porous starch is a waxy rice starch or a waxy corn starch.
[0142] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch is a porous rice starch. In this embodiment, the characteristic diameters, volume-weighted mean diameter (d[4;3]) and diameters at 10th, 50th, and 90thpercentiles (d(10), d(50) and d(90)), measured by laser diffraction granulometry, of said at least one porous rice starch are such that:The d[4;3] is comprised between 1 and 20 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 3 and 15, or preferably between 4 and 10 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 5 and 8 micrometers (pm) (microns),The diameter at 10thpercentiles d(10) is comprised between 1 and 10 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 2 and 6 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 2 and 5 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably comprised between 3 and 4 micrometers (pm) (microns),The diameter at 50thpercentiles d(50) is comprised between 1 and 20 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 2 and 12 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably comprised between 4 and 10 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably comprised between 5 and 8 micrometers (pm) (microns),The diameter at 90thpercentiles d(90) is comprised between 1 and 40 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 5 and 30 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 6 and 25 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 8 and 20 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 10 and 18 micrometers (pm) (microns).
[0143] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one porous starch is a porous rice starch. In this embodiment, the characteristic diameters, volume-weighted mean diameter (d[4;3]) and diameters at 10th, 50th, and 90thpercentiles (d(10), d(50) and d(90)), measured by laser diffraction granulometry, of said at least one porous rice starch are such that:BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 BThe diameter at 10thpercentiles d(10) is comprised between 1 and 5 micrometers (pm), preferably between 3.5 and 4.5 micrometers (pm),The diameter at 50thpercentiles d(50) is comprised between 6 and 15 micrometers (pm), preferably 6 and 10 micrometers (pm),The diameter at 90thpercentiles d(90) is comprised between 16 and 40 micrometers (pm), preferably between 18 and 40 micrometers (pm).
[0144] In a preferred embodiment, the characteristic diameters, volume-weighted mean diameter (d[4;3]) and diameters at 10th, 50th, and 90thpercentiles (d(10), d(50) and d(90)), measured by laser diffraction granulometry, of said at least one porous starch, wherein the porous starch is a corn starch, are such that:The d[4;3] is less than or equal to 30 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than or equal to 25 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than or equal to 20 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than or equal to 19 micrometers (pm) (microns),The diameter at 10th percentiles d(10) is of less than or equal to 12 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than or equal to 10,5 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than or equal to 10 micrometers (pm) (microns),The diameter at 50th percentiles d(50) is of less than or equal to 20 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than or equal to 18 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than or equal to 17 micrometers (pm) (microns),The diameter at 90th percentiles d(90) is of less than or equal to 45 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than or equal to 42 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than or equal to 40 micrometers (pm) (microns).
[0145] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch is a porous corn starch. In this embodiment, the characteristic diameters, volume-weighted mean diameter (d[4;3]) and diameters at 10th, 50th, and 90thpercentiles (d(10), d(50) and d(90)), measured by laser diffraction granulometry, of said at least one porous corn starch are such that:The d[4;3] is comprised between 8 and 25 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 10 and 20, or preferably between 13 and 19 micrometers (pm) (microns),The diameter at 10th percentiles d(10) is comprised between 5 and 10 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 7 and 10 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 8 and 10 micrometers (pm) (microns),The diameter at 50th percentiles d(50) is comprised between 10 and 20 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 12 and 18 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 13 and 17 micrometers (pm) (microns),BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 BThe diameter at 90th percentiles d(90) is comprised between 20 and 45 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 19 and 45 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 21 and 40 micrometers (pm) (microns).
[0146] This specific particle size distribution, characterized by d[4;3], d(10), d(50), and d(90) parameters, delivers exceptional sensory properties and ensures a uniform, agglomerate-free population. The carefully controlled granulometric profile optimizes tactile perception while maintaining excellent flowability and dispersion characteristics. This precise size distribution eliminates unwanted particle clustering, resulting in a smooth, consistent texture that enhances both performance and user experience.
[0147] Furthermore, the optimized particle population of the porous starch according to the invention is characterized by stringent size control comprising less than 5% of particles exceeding 50pm and less than 0.5% of particles exceeding 100pm.
[0148] Hence, in one embodiment, the particle population of the porous starch according to the invention comprises less than 5% of particles of porous starch having a size greater than 50pm, preferably less than 2%, more preferably less than 1 %, relative to the total population. In another embodiment, the particle population preferably comprises less than 0.5% of particles of porous starch having a size greater than 100pm, more preferably less than 0.1 %, most preferably less than 0.05%, relative to the total population. Preferably, both parameters are combined to achieve optimal particle size distribution.
[0149] Hence, the resulting particle population is essentially agglomerate-free, with individual particles maintaining their discrete characteristics. This agglomerate-free state is critical for achieving reproducible sensory properties and ensuring homogeneous dispersion throughout the formulation
[0150] The volume diameter d(50), or the diameter at 50thpercentile, refers to the median diameter of particles in the particle size distribution. According to the commonly accepted definition, the median diameter corresponds to the theoretical opening of a sieve such that 50% of the particles, by volume, have a diameter greater than and 50% a diameter smaller than d(50).
[0151] The terms d(10) and d(90), or the diameters at 10thand 90thpercentiles respectively, also refer to parameters in the particle size distribution. D(10) corresponds to the theoretical opening of a sieve such that 10% of the particles, by volume, have a diameter smaller than d(10), and d(90) corresponds to the theoretical opening of a sieve such that 90% of the particles, by volume, have a diameter smaller than d(90). The particle size is measured by laser diffraction.
[0152] The usual method of measuring particle size distribution by laser diffraction for a dry powder involves dispersing the powder sample in a controlled flow of air to ensure individual particles are separated. The dispersed particles are then passed through a laser beam, where they scatter the light at various angles depending on their size. The scattered light is detected by a series of photodetectors positioned at different angles. The intensity and pattern of the scattered light are analyzed to calculate the size distribution of the non-spherical particles. The data is processed toBR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 B produce a particle size distribution curve, typically presented as volume or number percentages across different size ranges. This method is favored for its rapid analysis, wide size range, and ability to handle diverse materials, providing precise and reproducible measurements of particle size distribution in dry powders.
[0153] The granulometry of the starch granules, either native or porous, is usually determined using a laser diffraction granulometer, operated in dry phase and with the Mie model, and is usually expressed in volume, i.e. is usually volume-weighed, which is also called “volume-based”.
[0154] As demonstrated in the examples, porous waxy starches according to the present invention showed the highest smoothness of all starches tested in compacted powders. Furthermore, porous starches according to the present invention demonstrates excellent overall performance across the evaluated sensory properties, presenting a well-balanced profile for a loose powder cosmetic product. It shows superior or comparable results to the talc in most categories, while consistently outperforming porous standard starch, native waxy starch and native standard starch. In addition to these properties, the carefully controlled volumetric particle size distribution of starches further enhances these sensory attributes. By optimizing this distribution, the invention achieves an ideal balance of textural characteristics, improving the overall sensory profile of the solid composition when applied to the skin. This tailored approach results in a product that offers superior comfort, a luxurious feel, and exceptional performance across various sensory parameters, meeting and exceeding the high standards expected in advanced skincare applications.
[0155] In applications where sensory properties are not essential such as in food and agriculture or pharmaceutical industries, alternative particle size distributions may be employed, offering greater formulation flexibility while preserving the functional advantages of the porous starch.
[0156] In an embodiment, the characteristic diameters, volume-weighted mean diameter (d[4;3]) and diameters at 10th, 50th, and 90th percentiles (d(10), d(50) and d(90)), measured by laser diffraction granulometry, of said at least one porous starch are such that:The d[4;3] is less than or equal to 50 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than or equal to 40 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than or equal to 30 micrometers (pm) (microns),The diameter at 10th percentiles d(10) is of less than or equal to 12 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than or equal to 11 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than or equal to 10 micrometers (pm) (microns),The diameter at 50th percentiles d(50) is of less than or equal to 22 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than or equal to 20 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than or equal to 19 micrometers (pm) (microns),The diameter at 90th percentiles d(90) is of less than or equal to 75 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than or equal to 72 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than or equal to 70 micrometers (pm) (microns).BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 B
[0157] In another embodiment, the characteristic diameters, volume-weighted mean diameter (d[4;3]) and diameters at 10th, 50th, and 90th percentiles (d(10), d(50) and d(90)), measured by laser diffraction granulometry, of said at least one porous corn starch are such that:The d[4;3] is comprised between 10 and 50 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 20 and 40 micrometers (pm) (microns),The diameter at 10th percentiles d(10) is comprised between 7 and 15 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 8 and 14 micrometers (pm) (microns),The diameter at 50th percentiles d(50) is comprised between 15 and 30 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 15 and 25 micrometers (pm) (microns),The diameter at 90th percentiles d(90) is comprised between 60 and 80 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 65 and 75 micrometers (pm) (microns).
[0158] In an another embodiment, the characteristic diameters, volume-weighted mean diameter (d[4;3]) and diameters at 10th, 50th, and 90thpercentiles (d(10), d(50) and d(90)), measured by laser diffraction granulometry, of said at least one porous starch are such that:The d[4;3] is less than or equal to 50 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than or equal to 35 micrometers (pm) (microns),The diameter at 10th percentiles d(10) is of less than or equal to 13 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than or equal to 12,5 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than or equal to 12,3 micrometers (pm) (microns),The diameter at 50th percentiles d(50) is of less than or equal to 28 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than or equal to 27,5 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than or equal to 27 micrometers (pm) (microns),The diameter at 90th percentiles d(90) is of less than or equal to 60 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than or equal to 58 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than or equal to 56 micrometers (pm) (microns).
[0159] In another embodiment, the characteristic diameters, volume-weighted mean diameter (d[4;3]) and diameters at 10th, 50th, and 90thpercentiles (d(10), d(50) and d(90)), measured by laser diffraction granulometry, of said at least one porous corn starch are such that:The d[4;3] is comprised between 10 and 50 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 15 and 35, micrometers (pm) (microns),The diameter at 10th percentiles d(10) is comprised between 7 and 15 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 8 and 14 micrometers (pm) (microns),The diameter at 50th percentiles d(50) is comprised between 15 and 30 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 15 and 25 micrometers (pm) (microns),BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 BThe diameter at 90th percentiles d(90) is comprised between 30 and 60 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 35 and 55 micrometers (pm) (microns).
[0160] Reducing sugar content
[0161] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch has a reducing sugar content of less than 3.5% by weight, preferably of less than 2% by weight, preferably of less than 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the porous starch. Low reducing sugar contents are preferred to allow the porous starch according to the invention to remain stable over time against humidity and Maillard coloration reactions.
[0162] The usual method for measuring reducing sugars in a solution is the method of Bertrand (Bulletin de la Societe Chimique de France, 1906, 35 pp. 1285-1299). Initially, the reducing sugars in a porous starch sample are extracted by soaking the sample in demineralized water, followed by filtration. The starch cake is washed again with demineralized water, and the filtrates are combined and can be concentrated if necessary, such as using a rotary evaporator. When being heated in mixture of cupric sulfate, potassium sodium tartrate, and sodium hydroxide, the reducing sugars reduce the cupric ions to cuprous oxide, which precipitates at the bottom of the flask. The cuprous oxide is then use to reduced ferric sulfate in sulfuric acid, producing ferrous sulfate, which can be quantified by titration using a standardized KMnO solution. The amount of reducing sugars as glucose can be determined based on the volume of KMnC .
[0163] Density
[0164] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch has a bulk density between 0.35 and 0.55 g / mL, and a tapped density between 0.5 and 0.7 g / mL.
[0165] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one porous starch is a porous waxy corn starch having a bulk density between 0.45 and 0.55 g / mL, and a tapped density between 0.60 and 0.70 g / mL.
[0166] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one porous starch is a porous waxy rice starch having a bulk density between 0.35 and 0.45 g / mL, and a tapped density between 0.50 and 0.65 g / mL.
[0167] The bulk density is defined as the mass of the many particles of the porous starch divided by the bulk volume. Bulk volume is defined as the total volume the particles occupy, including particle's own volume, inter-particle void volume, and the particles internal pore volume. Bulk density is also sometimes referred to as the “apparent density”.
[0168] Protein content
[0169] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch has a protein content of less than 3 % by weight relative to the total weight of porous starch, preferably of less than 2 %, more preferably less than 1 % by weight, most preferably about 0.10 to 0.5 % by weight.
[0170] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one porous starch is a porous waxy corn starch having less than 2% by weight of protein relative to the total weight of porous starch, or better less than 1 % by weight, or less than 0.5% by weight and about 0.10 to 0.25% by weight.BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 B
[0171] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one porous starch is a porous waxy rice starch having less than 3% by weight of protein relative to the total weight of porous starch, or better less than 2% by weight, or less than 1 % by weight and about 0.1 to 0.5% by weight.
[0172] Absorption capacity
[0173] Porous starches according to the present invention advantageously show increased absorption capacity around 10% higher than the one of their native, i.e. non-porous, counterparts.
[0174] This enhanced absorption capacity directly translates into an improved matifying effect on the skin, as the porous starches are able to efficiently absorb both sebum and sweat, thereby reducing skin shine and helping to maintain a skin matte appearance throughout wear.
[0175] In an embodiment, the porous starch according to the invention has a sweat absorption capacity comprised between 9.0 and 9.5 mL / g.
[0176] In an embodiment, the porous starch according to the invention has a sebum absorption capacity comprised between 7.5 and 9.0 mL / g.
[0177] These high absorption capacities contribute to the matifying performance on the skin of cosmetic compositions containing the porous starch, making them particularly suitable for use in products such as face powders, foundations, and other make-up or skin care formulations where oil and moisture control is desired.
[0178] The sebum and sweat absorption capacity of the solid composition is assessed using a modeling approach with readily available substitutes. In this method, sebum is modelled by olive oil, which is chosen for its close mimicry of the lipid composition and viscosity of human sebum. For sweat simulation, saline water is utilized, as it approximates the ionic content and aqueous nature of human perspiration. These model substances are employed to allow for standardized and reproducible measurements of the absorption capabilities of the composition. The performance of the porous starch according to the invention in absorbing these physiological fluids is effectively evaluated through the use of olive oil for sebum modeling and saline water for sweat modeling. This approach enables the absorption capacities across different formulations to be quantified and compared, thereby facilitating the optimization of the oil and moisture control properties of the product.
[0179] Typically, for sebum absorption, the method is as follows:1 . In a mortar put 10g of powder formula.2. Add, using a 1 mL pipette, 1 mL of olive oil and mix with the pestle.3. Repeat steps 2 until a change of state from a powder to a homogeneous bright paste is observed. This corresponds to the exact amount of oil that the powder can absorb.
[0180] Typically, for sweat absorption, the method is as follows:1. In a mortar put 10g of powder.2. Add, using a 1 mL pipette, 1 mL of saline water and mix with the pestle.BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 B3. Repeat steps 2 until a change of state from a powder to a paste is observed. This corresponds to the exact amount of water that the powder can absorb.
[0181] Elastic recovery
[0182] In one embodiment, the elastic recovery of said at least one porous starch is less than 15%, preferably less than 14.5%, preferably less than 12.5%, when a compression of 5 kN is applied.
[0183] In another embodiment, the elastic recovery of said at least one porous starch is less than 16%, preferably less than 15.5%, preferably less than 14.5%, when a compression of 10 kN is applied.
[0184] The elastic recovery corresponds to the percentage (%) of axial expansion measured 24 hours after compaction with a given compression force. Axial expansion means the expansion occurring in the same direction as the direction of the compaction.
[0185] The usual method for measuring the elastic recovery of a starch powder involves a mechanical testing process, typically using a compression test. In this method, a known quantity of starch powder is first compacted into a cylindrical or disc-shaped pellet using a controlled force in a compression testing machine. After the initial compression with the specified compression force, the force is released, and the pellet is allowed to recover for 24 hours. The height or thickness of the pellet HO is measured immediately after compression and again afterthe recovery period of 24 hours, noted H24. The elastic recovery is calculated as the percentage of the initial compression height that the pellet regains during the recovery period, according to the formula: 100 * (H24 - HO) / HO.
[0186] This measurement provides insight into the material's ability to keep its form after compaction, reflecting its elasticity and resilience. A low elastic recovery, for example below 15%, or 10%, or even 5%, corresponds to a material able to keep its compacted shape, whereas a high elastic recovery, for example higher than 20% or 25 %, means a material that recovers its original shape as before compaction. For a compacted powder, it is thus usually required that the elastic recovery be as low as possible, in order to ensure that the shape of the compacted powder will be as stable as possible over a suitable period of time. A compressed powder is usually a mixture of several powders. Its elastic recovery results from the elastic recovery of its individual solid constituents. Therefore, each of these constituents should have the lowest elastic recovery as possible in order to ensure that the resulting elastic recovery of the compressed powder be as low as possible.
[0187] In the field of compressed powders in cosmetics, those compressed powders should usually retain the shape acquired by compaction as long as possible, at least as long as necessary for the end consumer to consume those entirely. Indeed, those compacted powders are usually presented in containers, which allows their easy sampling by swiping with a finger or with a cotton or tissue to then apply the powder onto the keratin materials. If the elastic recovery of the compressed powder is too high, then its compressed state may be degraded, with a change in its shape, causing the occurrence of cracks, or uplifting from the container.
[0188] The porous waxy starches comprised in the solid composition according to the invention have a low elastic recovery, allowing them to retain their compacted shape for extended period of time.BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 BThis ability to keep their compacted shape translates into the stability of the shape of compacted powder obtained with this solid composition.
[0189] Porous waxy starch
[0190] In an embodiment, the composition comprises in a physiologically acceptable medium, porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 %, or greater than 85%, or greater than 95%, or greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, having:An average specific surface area, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model, of more than 0.4 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.5 m2 / g.
[0191] In an embodiment, the composition comprises in a physiologically acceptable medium, porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 %, or greater than 85%, or greater than 95%, or greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, having:An average specific surface area, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model, of more than 0.4 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.5 m2 / g, and / orAn average visible pore diameter comprised between 0.05 and 4 micrometers (pm) (micrometers (pm) (microns)), preferably between 0.05 and 2 micrometers (pm) (micrometers (pm) (microns)), preferably between 0.2 and 1 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 0.2 and 0.6 micrometers (pm) (microns), and / orAn average pore volume, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model, of at least 2.0 mm3 / g, preferably at least 2.5 mm3 / g, more preferably at least 3.0 mm3 / g, most preferably at least 3.5 mm3 / g, and most preferably at least 3.5 mm3 / g.
[0192] In an embodiment, the composition comprises in a physiologically acceptable medium, porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 %, or greater than 85%, or greater than 95%, or greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, having:An average specific surface area in the range of 0.4 to 1 .2 m2 / g, preferably 0.5 to 1 .0 m2 / g.
[0193] In an embodiment, the composition comprises in a physiologically acceptable medium, porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 %, or greater than 85%, or greater than 95%, or greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, having:An average specific surface area in the range of 0.4 to 1 .2 m2 / g, preferably 0.5 to 1 .0 m2 / g, and / or,An average visible pore diameter comprised between 0.05 and 4 micrometers (pm) (micrometers (pm) (microns)), preferably between 0.05 and 2 micrometers (pm) (micrometers (pm) (microns)), preferably between 0.2 and 1 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 0.2 and 0.6 micrometers (pm) (microns) and / orAn average pore volume in the range of 2.0 to 8.0 mm3 / g, preferably 2.5 to 7.0 mm3 / g.BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 B
[0194] In an embodiment, the characteristic diameters, diameters at 10th, 50th, and 90th percentiles (d(10), d(50) and d(90)), measured by laser diffraction granulometry, of said at least one porous starch are such that:The diameter at 10th percentiles d(10) is comprised between 3 and 9 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 3.5 and 9 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 3.6 and 8.9 micrometers (pm) (microns),The diameter at 50th percentiles d(50) is comprised between 10 and 18 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 10.5 and 17.5 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 11 and 17 micrometers (pm) (microns),The diameter at 90th percentiles d(90) is comprised between 17 and 40 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 17 and 39 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 17 and 38.5 micrometers (pm) (microns).
[0195] In a preferred embodiment, the porous starch is preferably porous corn starch or porous rice starch.
[0196] Porous waxy rice starch
[0197] In an embodiment, the composition comprises in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one porous starch which is a rice starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, wherein said porous rice starch has an average specific surface area, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model, of more than 0.4 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.5 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.6 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.65 m2 / g.
[0198] In an embodiment, the composition comprises in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one porous starch which is a rice starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, wherein said porous rice starch has:An average specific surface area, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model, of more than 0.4 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.5 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.6 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.65 m2 / g, and / or an average visible pore diameter comprised between 0.05 and 4 microns, preferably between 0.05 and 2 microns, and / or an average pore volume, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model, comprised between 5.0 and 8.0 mm3 / g.
[0199] In an embodiment, the composition comprises in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one porous starch which is a rice starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, wherein said porous rice starch has:BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-IBAn average specific surface area, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model, of more than 0.4 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.5 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.6 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.65 m2 / g, and an average visible pore diameter comprised between 0.05 and 4 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 0.05 and 2 micrometers (pm) (microns) preferably between 0.2 and 1 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 0.2 and 0.6 micrometers (pm) (microns), and an average pore volume, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model, comprised between 5.0 and 8.0 mm3 / g, preferably between 5.5 and 7.0 mm3 / g.
[0200] In an embodiment, the composition comprises in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one porous starch which is a rice starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, wherein said porous rice starch has:An average specific surface area, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model, of more than 0.4 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.5 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.6 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.65 m2 / g, and / or an average visible pore diameter comprised between 0.05 and 4 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 0.05 and 2 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 0.2 and 1 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 0.2 and 0.6 micrometers (pm) (microns) and / or an average pore volume, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model, comprised between 5.0 and 8.0 mm3 / g, preferably between 5.5 and 7.0 mm3 / g and / or the characteristic diameters d[4;3], d(10), d(50) and d(90), as measured by laser diffraction granulometry, are such that:The diameter at 10thpercentiles d(10) is comprised between 1 and 5 micrometers (pm), preferably between 3.5 and 4.5 micrometers (pm),The diameter at 50thpercentiles d(50) is comprised between 6 and 15 micrometers (pm), preferably 6 and 10 micrometers (pm),The diameter at 90thpercentiles d(90) is comprised between 16 and 40 micrometers (pm), preferably between 18 and 40 micrometers (pm).
[0201] In an embodiment, the composition comprises in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one porous starch which is a rice starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, wherein said porous rice starch has: an average specific surface area, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model, of more than 0.4 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.5 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.6 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.65 m2 / g, and / orBR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 B an average visible pore diameter comprised between 0.05 and 4 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 0.05 and 2 micrometers (pm) (microns), and / or an average pore volume, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model, comprised between 5.0 and 8.0 mm3 / g, and / or a water content comprised between 6 and 15%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, and / or a degree of hydrolysis comprised between 5 and 35%, preferably between 7 and 30%, preferably between 8 and 25%, preferably between 9 and 16%, and / or the characteristic diameters d[4;3], d(10), d(50) and d(90), as measured by laser diffraction granulometry, are such that: the diameter d[4;3] is of less than 20 micrometers (pm) (microns), most preferably comprised between 5 and 8 micrometers (pm) (microns),The diameter d(10) is of less than 10 micrometers (pm) (microns), most preferably comprised between 3 and 4 micrometers (pm) (microns),The diameter d(50) is of less than 20 micrometers (pm) (microns), most preferably comprised between 5 and 8 micrometers (pm) (microns),The diameter d(90) is of less than 120 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than 50 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably is comprised between 1 and 40 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 5 and 30 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 6 and 25 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 8 and 20 micrometers (pm) (microns), most preferably between 10 and 18 micrometers (pm) (microns), and / or a sweat absorption capacity comprised between 9 and 9.5 mL / g, and / or a sebum absorption capacity comprised between 7.75 and 9 mL / g and / or an elastic recovery of less than 15.0%, preferably less than 14.5%, when a compression of 10kN is applied and / or an elastic recovery of less than 12.5%, preferably of less than 12.0 %, when a compression of 5kN is applied.
[0202] Porous waxy corn starch
[0203] In an embodiment, the composition comprises in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one porous starch which is a corn starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, wherein said porous corn starch has: an average specific surface area, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model, of more than 0.4 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.5 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.6 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.65 m2 / g, and / orBR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 B an average visible pore diameter comprised between 0.05 and 4 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 0.05 and 2 micrometers (pm) (microns), and / or an average pore volume as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model comprised between 2.0 and 5.0 mm3 / g.
[0204] In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one porous starch which is a corn starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, wherein said porous corn starch has an average specific surface area, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model, of more than 0.4 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.5 m2 / g.
[0205] In an embodiment, the composition comprises in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one porous starch which is a corn starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, wherein said porous corn starch has: an average specific surface area, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model, of more than 0.4 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.5 m2 / g, and / or an average visible pore diameter comprised between 0.05 and 4 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 0.05 and 2 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 0.2 and 1 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 0.2 and 0.6 micrometers (pm) (microns) and / or an average pore volume as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model comprised between 2.0 and 5.0 mm3 / g, preferably between 2.5 and 4.5 mm3 / g.
[0206] In an embodiment, the composition comprises in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one porous starch which is a corn starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, wherein said porous corn starch has: an average specific surface area, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model, of more than 0.4 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.5 m2 / g, and an average visible pore diameter comprised between 0.05 and 4 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 0.05 and 2 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 0.2 and 1 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 0.2 and 0.6 micrometers (pm) (microns) and an average pore volume as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model comprised between 2.0 and 5.0 mm3 / g, preferably between 2.5 and 4.5 mm3 / g.
[0207] In an embodiment, the composition comprises in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one porous starch which is a corn starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, wherein said porous corn starch has: an average specific surface area, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model, of more than 0.4 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.5 m2 / g, , and / orBR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 B an average visible pore diameter comprised between 0.05 and 4 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 0.05 and 2 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 0.2 and 1 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 0.2 and 0.6 micrometers (pm) (microns) and / or an average pore volume as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model comprised between 2.0 and 5.0 mm3 / g, preferably between 2.5 and 4.5 mm3 / g, and / or the characteristic diameters d[4;3], d(10), d(50) and d(90), as measured by laser diffraction granulometry, are such that:The d[4;3] is comprised between 8 and 25 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 10 and 20, or preferably between 13 and 19 micrometers (pm) (microns),The diameter at 10th percentiles d(10) is comprised between 5 and 10 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 7 and 10 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 8 and 10 micrometers (pm) (microns),The diameter at 50th percentiles d(50) is comprised between 10 and 20 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 12 and 18 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 13 and 17 micrometers (pm) (microns),The diameter at 90th percentiles d(90) is comprised between 20 and 45 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 19 and 45 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 21 and 40micrometers (pm) (microns).
[0208] In an embodiment, the composition comprises in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one porous starch which is a corn starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, wherein said porous corn starch has: an average specific surface area, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model, of more than 0.4 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.5 m2 / g, and an average visible pore diameter comprised between 0.05 and 4 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 0.05 and 2 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 0.2 and 1 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 0.2 and 0.6 micrometers (pm) (microns) and an average pore volume as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model comprised between 2.0 and 5.0 mm3 / g, preferably between 2.5 and 4.5 mm3 / g and the characteristic diameters d[4;3], d(10), d(50) and d(90), as measured by laser diffraction granulometry, are such that:BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 B the characteristic diameters d[4;3], d(10), d(50) and d(90), as measured by laser diffraction granulometry, are such that:The d[4;3] is comprised between 8 and 25 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 10 and 20, or preferably between 13 and 19 micrometers (pm) (microns),The diameter at 10th percentiles d(10) is comprised between 5 and 10 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 7 and 10 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 8 and 10 micrometers (pm) (microns),The diameter at 50th percentiles d(50) is comprised between 10 and 20 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 12 and 18 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 13 and 17 micrometers (pm) (microns),The diameter at 90th percentiles d(90) is comprised between 20 and 45 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 19 and 45 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 21 and 40micrometers (pm) (microns).
[0209] In an embodiment, the composition comprises in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one porous starch which is a corn starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, wherein said porous corn starch has: a specific surface area, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model, of more than 0.4 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.5 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.6 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.65 m2 / g, and / or an average visible pore diameter comprised between 0.05 and 4 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 0.05 and 2 micrometers (pm) (microns), and / or a average pore volume, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model, comprised between 2.0 and 5.0 mm3 / g, and / or a water content comprised between 6 and 15%, preferably between 8 and 13 %, preferably between 9 and 11 %, relative to the total weight of the porous starch and / or a degree of hydrolysis comprised between 5 and 35%, preferably between 8 and 25%, preferably between 10 and 20%, preferably between 11 and 20% and preferably between 1 1 and 16%, and / or the characteristic diameters d[4;3], d(10), d(50) and d(90), as measured by laser diffraction granulometry, are such that:The diameter d[4;3] is comprised between 1 and 40 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 5 and 30, or preferably between 8 and 25 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 10 and 20 micrometers (pm) (microns),BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 BThe diameter d(10) is comprised between 1 and 15 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 4 and 12, or preferably between 5 and 10 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 8 and 9 micrometers (pm) (microns),The diameter d(50) is comprised between 5 and 25 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 10 and 20 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 12 and 16 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 13 and 15 micrometers (pm) (microns),The diameter d(90) is of less than 250 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than 100 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably is comprised between 10 and 40 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 15 and 37 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 21 and 35 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 22 and 30 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 23 and 27 micrometers (pm) (microns), and / or a sweat absorption capacity comprised between 9 and 9.5 mL / g, and / or a sebum absorption capacity comprised between 7.75 and 9 mL / g, and / or an elastic recovery of less than 16%, preferably less than 15.5%, preferably less than 15%, when a compression of 10kN is applied and / or an elastic recovery of less than 15%, preferably less than 14.5%, preferably less than 14%, when a compression of 5kN is applied.
[0210] In an embodiment, the composition comprises in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one porous starch which is a corn starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, wherein said porous corn starch has: a specific surface area, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model, of more than 0.4 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.5 m2 / g, and / or an average visible pore diameter comprised between 0.05 and 4 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 0.05 and 2 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 0.2 and 1 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 0.2 and 0.6 micrometers (pm) (microns) and / or a average pore volume, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model, comprised between 2.0 and 5.0 mm3 / g, preferably between 2.5 and 4.5 mm3 / g and / or a water content comprised between 6 and 15%, preferably between 8 and 13 %, preferably between 9 and 11 %, relative to the total weight of the porous starch and / or a degree of hydrolysis comprised between 5 and 35%, preferably between 8 and 25%, preferably between 10 and 20%, preferably between 11 and 20% and preferably between 1 1 and 16%, and / orBR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 B the characteristic diameters d[4;3], d(10), d(50) and d(90), as measured by laser diffraction granulometry, are such that: the characteristic diameters d[4;3], d(10), d(50) and d(90), as measured by laser diffraction granulometry, are such that:The d[4;3] is comprised between 8 and 25 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 10 and 20, or preferably between 13 and 19 micrometers (pm) (microns),The diameter at 10th percentiles d(10) is comprised between 5 and 10 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 7 and 10 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 8 and 10 micrometers (pm) (microns),The diameter at 50th percentiles d(50) is comprised between 10 and 20 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 12 and 18 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 13 and 17 micrometers (pm) (microns),The diameter at 90th percentiles d(90) is comprised between 20 and 45 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 19 and 45 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 21 and 40micrometers (pm) (microns). a sweat absorption capacity comprised between 9 and 9.5 mL / g, and / or a sebum absorption capacity comprised between 7.75 and 9 mL / g, and / or an elastic recovery of less than 16%, preferably less than 15.5%, preferably less than 15%, when a compression of 10kN is applied and / or an elastic recovery of less than 15%, preferably less than 14.5%, preferably less than 14%, when a compression of 5kN is applied.
[0211] In an embodiment, the porous waxy corn starch possesses all these characteristics combined.
[0212] Where 'and / or' is used, the features may be present individually or in any combination.
[0213] Mixtures of porous starches
[0214] The composition according to the present invention may comprise a single porous starch or a mixture of at least two porous starches as previously described, said starches may be of one botanical origin only, or may be from at least different botanical origins.
[0215] In an embodiment, the composition comprises in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one porous starch which is a corn starch having the characteristics described hereinbefore and at least one porous starch which is a rice starch having the characteristics described hereinbefore.
[0216] In an embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.1 to 100% by weight of said at least one porous starch, preferably from 50 to 100%, preferably from 60 to 100%, preferably from 70 to 100 %, preferably from 80 to 100%, preferably from 90 to 100% by weight of said at least one porous starch, relative to the total weight of said composition.BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 B
[0217] In an embodiment, the composition comprises at least one further ingredient chosen from flow agents, or mixture thereof.
[0218] Cosmetic product
[0219] As used herein, a "cosmetic product" refers to a formulation designed for application to the human body, particularly the skin or hair, for the purpose of cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance. Such compositions are intended to be physiologically acceptable, meaning they are compatible with the skin and / or its integuments and the hair, have a pleasant color, odor, and feel, and do not cause any unacceptable discomfort (such as stinging or tautness) that would discourage the consumer from using the product. In the context of this invention, a "cosmetic product" comprises at least a composition for cosmetic products according to the invention, i.e. a composition comprising at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80% relative to the total weight of the porous starch. These cosmetic products can be in various forms, such as cleansing products, hair care products, oral care products, sun care products, skin care products, make-up products, feminine care products, nail care products, shaving and hair removal products, men’s grooming products, bath and shower products, deodorants and antiperspirants, eye care products and / or hygiene products.
[0220] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product is a solid composition (or solid cosmetic product) such as a compact powder, loose powder, semi free-flowing powder, and granulated powder.
[0221] The cosmetic product is designed to provide desirable sensory properties, stability, and mechanical resistance, making it suitable for a wide range of cosmetic applications, and notably make-up product.
[0222] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product consists essentially of the composition for cosmetic product according to the invention.
[0223] “Essentially” means that the cosmetic product contains the composition for cosmetic product according to the invention as its main or primary component, allowing for minor additional ingredients or impurities that do not materially affect the nature of the product. It implies that while the product may contain small amounts of other substances, the composition according to the invention constitutes the fundamental and predominant part of the product.
[0224] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product comprises further other ingredients chosen from fillers, dry binders, coloring agents, sensorial agents, flow agents, fragrances, cosmetic active ingredients and mixture thereof.
[0225] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product consists of the composition for cosmetic product according to the invention.
[0226] In the embodiment where the cosmetic product consists of the composition for cosmetic product, this means that the cosmetic product is composed solely and exclusively of the composition for cosmetic product described in the invention, without any additional ingredients.BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 B
[0227] In an embodiment, the cosmetic products may include creams, emulsions, lotions, gels and oils for the skin, face masks, tinted bases (liquids, pastes, powders), make-up powders, after-bath powders, hygienic powders, toilet soaps, deodorant soaps, perfumes, toilet waters and eau de Cologne, bath and shower preparations (salts, foams, oils, gels), depilatories, deodorants and antiperspirants, hair colorants, products for waving, straightening and fixing hair, hair-setting products, haircleansing products (lotions, powders, shampoos), hair conditioning products (lotions, creams, oils), hairdressing products (lotions, lacquers, brilliantines), shaving products (creams, foams, lotions), make-up and products removing make-up, products intended for application to the lips, products for care of the teeth and the mouth, products for nail care and make-up, products for external intimate hygiene, sunbathing products, products for tanning without sun, skin-whitening products and anti-wrinkle products
[0228] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product is chosen from cleansing products, hair care products, oral care products, sun care products, skin care products, make-up products, feminine care products, nail care products, shaving and hair removal products, men’s grooming products, bath and shower products, deodorants and antiperspirants, eye care products and / or hygiene products.
[0229] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product is chosen from make-up products, skin care products, hair care products, or oral care products.
[0230] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic product is a make-up product.
[0231] Solid cosmetic product
[0232] “Solid cosmetic product” means the cosmetic product is solid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). “Solid” means that the cosmetic product has a shape of its own, which is not, or at least never exactly, the shape of the container that holds it. “Solid” encompasses the two possible alternatives of the solid state, which are “compact solid” and “divided solid”. The “compact solid” does not flow under its own weight, and it conserves its form during storage. The “divided solid” is constituted of individual particles having their own individual shapes, but the ensemble made up of the particles has no shape and can flow. The solid product is not a paste or liquid.
[0233] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic product according to the invention comprises less than 65% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition, or less than 50% by weight. According to another embodiment, the solid cosmetic product comprises less than 0.5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition, or is even free of water. According to another embodiment, the composition comprises between 1 and 45 % by weight of water, or between 5 to 25 %, or between 8 to 15 %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0234] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product is a solid cosmetic product chosen among a compact powder, a free-flowing powder, a semi free-flowing powder and a granulated powder.
[0235] Compact powderBR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 B
[0236] As used herein, the “compact powder”, also known as “pressed powder” means a mass of product whose cohesion is at least partly provided by compacting or preferably pressing during the manufacture. It is a finely milled powder formulation that has been bound together under pressure to create a solid, portable product.
[0237] In one embodiment, the compact powder is a make-up powder, used as such without any dilution, dispersion or redispersion, preferably chosen from face powder, foundation, primer, blush, bronzer, highlighter, contour powder, eyeshadow, setting powder, finishing powder, color-correcting powder, mattifying powder, oil-control powder, sun protection powder, illuminating powder, powder concealer, all-in-one powder palette, shimmer powder for body and face, eyebrow powder, compact dry shampoo, pressed hair volumizing powder, compact root touch-up powder, pressed scalp treatment powder, compact hair color touch-up, pressed dandruff control powder, compact hair shine powder, pressed leave-in hair treatment, compact foot powder, pressed deodorant powder, compact antiperspirant powder, compact perfumed body powder, pressed after-sun powder, compact baby powder and pressed diaper rash powder.
[0238] In another embodiment, the compact powder is a redispersible compact powder, redispersible in a solvent which is hydrophilic, lipophilic, or amphiphilic, polar or apolar. The redispersibility of the compact powder according to this embodiment may allow the preparation of powdery lotions, which are dispersions of powder into a liquid medium, said liquid medium being either hydrophilic, lipophilic, amphiphilic, polar or apolar. The redispersible compact powder may be redispersed in water or in an hydroalcoholic solvent, such as a bath tablet, a bath ball, a tablet for oral care, for instance tablets for cleaning dentures and dental appliances. According to an alternative of this embodiment, redispersion in water or aqueous solvents may be helped by the addition of a surfactant, either in the redispersible compact powder or in the water or aqueous solvent. The surfactant may also allow the formation of an emulsion, thereby forming a cream for instance, comprising the dispersed powder obtained after redispersion of the redispersible compact powder, when an emulsifiable fatty phase is either present in the redispersible compact powder or added into the water or aqueous solvent. When the redispersible compact powder is redispersed into an alcohol, a lotion may be obtained. The redispersible compact powder may also be redispersed in a fatty phase, for instance an oil, a wax or a butter, thereby forming a powdery oil, a powdery wax, or a powdery butter.
[0239] In an embodiment, the compact powder comprises from 0.1 to 99.9% of said at least one porous starch, preferably between 5 and 90%, preferably between 10 and 80%, preferably between 15 and 70%, preferably between 20 and 60%, preferably between 25 and 50%, preferably between 30 and 40%, relative to the total weight of the compact powder.
[0240] In an embodiment, the compact powder further comprises at least one further ingredient chosen from fillers, dry binders, wet binders, coloring agents, sensorial agents, flow agents, cosmetic active ingredients and mixture thereof.
[0241] In an embodiment, the compact powder further comprises at least one filler.BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-IB
[0242] Fillers are used to maintain product texture and compressibility throughout a shade family, as well as to provide improved wear benefits, depending on the surface treatment.
[0243] In an embodiment, fillers are chosen from polyethylene, polyester, teflon, carbomer, PMMA, talc, mica, clay, montmorillonite, silica, bentonite, sodium carbonate, dicalcium phosphate, magnesium carbonate, microcrystalline cellulose, native or modified cellulose, native or modified starch, dextrin, maltodextrin, cyclodextrin, crystalline polyols such as sorbitol, mannitol, xylitol, maltitol, lactitol, erythritol, and isomalt, diols such as isosorbide, proteins and mixtures thereof.
[0244] In a preferred embodiment, fillers are chosen from microcrystalline or native cellulose, crystalline polyols, native starches, mica, and / or talc.
[0245] In an embodiment, the solid composition, in a compact powder form, comprises from 0.5 to 80% of said at least one filler, preferably between 5 and 60%, preferably between 8 and 40%, preferably between 10 and 35%, relative to the total weight of the solid composition. In a preferred embodiment, the solid composition contains more than the at least one porous starch than the at least one filler, that is to say that the ratio in weight between the at least one porous starch to the at least one filler is greater than 1 , and better greater than 2, and preferably greater than 3.
[0246] In an embodiment, the compact powder further comprises at least one dry binder.
[0247] Dry binders, also known as compacting agent, are a necessity to powder formulations. They compact easily and use their adhesive properties to assist other ingredients in compacting.
[0248] In an embodiment, dry binders are chosen from salts of fatty acid such as magnesium stearate, zinc stearate, magnesium myristate, amphiphilic molecules such as lecithin, hydrophilic molecules such as polyols, preferably directly compressible (referred as “DC”) polyols such as sorbitol DC, mannitol DC, xylitol DC and mixtures thereof.
[0249] Typically, commercial products from Roquette can be used for the polyols: sorbitol DC (marketed as NEOSORB® XTAB), mannitol DC (marketed as PEARLITOL®), and xylitol DC (marketed as XYLISORB® XTAB 240 or Beaute by Roquette PO 324).
[0250] In an embodiment, the compact powder comprises from 0.5 to 50% of said at least one dry binder, preferably between 1 and 40%, preferably between 2 and 30%, relative to the total weight of the solid composition.
[0251] In an embodiment, the compact powder further comprises at least one wet binder.
[0252] Wet binders, also known as “fatty phase,” are added to wet the ingredients in a formula and help dictate the overall feel of the product. They are essential in ensuring ingredients dispersion.
[0253] In an embodiment, the at least one wet binder is chosen from glycerin and its derivatives, glycol and its derivatives, squalene, squalane, vegetable oils such as calendula oil, jojoba oil, coconut oil, olive oil, soybean oil, avocado oil, argan oil, castor oil, sweet almond oil, grapeseed oil, vegetable butters such as mango seed butter, shea butter, cocoa butter, almond butter), fatty esters such asBR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 B cetearyl alcohol, fatty alcohols, alkanes such as dodecane, silicones, fatty amino acids such as lauroyl lysine, and caprylic / capric triglycerides and mixtures thereof.
[0254] In an embodiment, the solid composition comprises from 0.01 to 25 % of said at least one wet binder, preferably from 0.1 to 15 %, preferably from 0.2 to 10 %, preferably from 0.5 to 8 %, and preferably from 1 to 5 %, relative to the total weight of the solid composition.
[0255] In one embodiment, the solid composition, in a compact powder form, further comprises at least one coloring agent.
[0256] As used herein, “coloring agent” means any substances that impart color or effect to cosmetic products, enhancing their aesthetic appeal and helping to achieve desired visual effects on the skin or hair.
[0257] The coloring agent according to the invention is preferably chosen from pigments, nacres, optical agents, dyes, lacquers, brighteners, matting agents, luminescence agents and mixtures thereof.
[0258] The term “pigments” should be understood as meaning white or colored, mineral or organic particles of any shape, which are insoluble in the physiological medium and which are intended to color the composition.
[0259] In an embodiment, mineral pigments are chosen among titanium dioxide (white), zinc oxide (white), iron oxides (black, yellow, red), chromium oxide (green), Ultramarine (blue), manganese (violet) and mixture thereof.
[0260] As used herein, “nacres” or “pearlescent agents” means iridescent or pearlescent particles that create a shimmering, multi-dimensional color effect through light reflection and interference.
[0261] In an embodiment, nacres or pearlescent agents are chosen among titanium mica coated with iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, synthetic mica-based pearlescent pigments and mixture thereof.
[0262] As used herein, “optical agents” means fine particles that manipulate light reflection and scattering to create optical illusions, such as blurring imperfections or enhancing skin radiance.
[0263] In an embodiment, optical agents are chosen among silica microspheres, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) microspheres and mixture thereof.
[0264] As used herein, “dyes” means soluble coloring substances that uniformly tint the product or skin, providing transparent color effects.
[0265] In an embodiment, dyes are chosen among water-soluble dyes such as FD&C and D&C dyes, oil-soluble dyes, natural dyes such as beetroot extract, caramel, and mixture thereof.
[0266] As used herein, “lacquers” means color additives formed by precipitating dyes onto a substrate, offering increased stability and uniform color dispersion in various formulations.BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 B
[0267] In one embodiment, lacquers are chosen among aluminum lake pigments, calcium lake pigments, zirconium lake pigments and mixture thereof.
[0268] As used herein “brighteners” means substances that enhance the perceived brightness or whiteness of a product or the skin by absorbing UV light and emitting visible light.
[0269] In an embodiment, brighteners are chosen among fluorescent whitening agents, optical brighteners such as coumarin derivatives and mixture thereof.
[0270] As used herein, “matting agent” means particles that reduce surface shine by scattering light, creating a soft-focus effect and minimizing the appearance of skin imperfections.
[0271] In an embodiment, matting agents are chosen among silica, alumina, nylon powder and mixture thereof.
[0272] As used herein “luminescence agents” means substances that emit light after being excited by energy, creating glowing or radiant effects in cosmetic applications.
[0273] In an embodiment, luminescence agents are chosen among pphosphorescent pigments, fluorescent pigments and mixture thereof.
[0274] As used herein “metal powders” means finely ground metallic particles that provide unique reflective properties, creating metallic or sparkle effects in cosmetic formulations.
[0275] In an embodiment, metal powders are chosen among aluminum powder, copper powder, bronze powder and mixture thereof.
[0276] In an embodiment, the solid composition comprises from 0.01 to 40 % of said at least one coloring agent, preferably between 0.1 and 25 %, preferably between 0.2 and 10 %, preferably between 0.5 and 5 %, by weigth relative to the total weight of the solid composition.
[0277] In one embodiment, the solid composition, in a compact powder form, further comprises at least one sensorial agent.
[0278] A “sensorial agent” refers to an ingredient or component that is specifically incorporated into a formulation to enhance or modify the sensory experience of the product, without necessarily having a biological or active effect on the skin or the hair. These agents are designed to affect one or more of the five senses - touch, smell, sight, and occasionally taste or sound - during the application or use of the cosmetic product. Sensorial agents can influence attributes such as texture, spreadability, absorption rate, cooling or warming sensations, scent release, visual appearance, and overall skin feel. Their primary purpose is to improve the user's perception and enjoyment of the product, potentially increasing its perceived efficacy and user satisfaction. According to one embodiment, sensorial agents may also have a soothing effect and reduce as well skin redness.
[0279] In an embodiment, the at least one sensorial agent is chosen from mica, talc, boron nitride, nylon-12, PMMA, spherical microcrystalline cellulose (like for example VIVAPUR® MCC Spheres or VIVAPUR® CS Sensory from JRS), lauroyl lysine, plants extracts such as aloe vera, a vitamin suchBR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 B as tocopheryl acetate, a fragrance, essential oils, a diol such as isosorbide, octenyl succinate starch and mixture thereof.
[0280] In an embodiment, the compact powder comprises from 0.1 to 15 % of said at least one sensorial agent, preferably from 0.2 to 10%, preferably from 1 to 10%, relative to the total weight of the solid composition.
[0281] In one embodiment, the compact powder further comprises at least one flow agent.
[0282] A “flow agent”, also named free-flowing agent, fluidizing agent, anti-caking agent or antiagglomerating agent, is a substance used to improve the flow properties of powders. It helps to prevent the formation of lumps and ensures that powdered substances do not stick together, maintaining a free-flowing condition that allow or improve the easyness of use, and for instance to allow an easy filing in containers.
[0283] In an embodiment, the at least one flow agent is chosen from fumed silica, silicon dioxide and tricalcium phosphate.
[0284] In an embodiment, the compact powder comprises from 0.01 to 5 % of said at least one flow agent, relative to the total weight of the solid composition, preferably from 0.1 to 2 %, preferably from 0.2 to 1 %.
[0285] In an embodiment, the compact powder comprises at least one cosmetic active ingredient.
[0286] A “cosmetic active ingredient” is a component in a cosmetic formulation, whether of plant, mineral, or synthetic origin, that is included for its specific beneficial effects on keratinous materials such as hair and skin. These ingredients are chosen for their ability to improve the appearance, condition, or function of the skin, hair, or nails and address specific concerns such as aging, hydration, pigmentation, acne, hair strength, soothing, microbiome balance.
[0287] According to one embodiment, the at least one cosmetic active ingredient is present in the cosmetic product according to the invention at a content of from 0.01 to 5%, preferably between 0.1 and 3%, preferably between 0.5 and 2%, relative to the total weight of the solid composition and is chosen from antiaging agents, antioxidants and anti-photodamage agents like retinol, retinyl palmitate, bakuchiol, polyphenols, caffeine... , mineral or organic exfoliating agents like gluconolactone, glycolic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid... , anti-imperfection agents, redness, fine lines and wrinkles reducers like succinic acid, ascorbic acid, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, peptides, ceramides, coenzyme Q10, collagen, elastin, keratin... , vitamins like vitamin A, D, E or K, panthenol... , plant extracts like green tea extract, resveratrol, aloe vera, chamomile, jojoba oil... , mineral or organic UV protectors or filters like zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, avobenzone, soothing agents like hyperbranched dextrins (such as Beaute by Roquette® DE 006), allantoin... , lightening agents and UV induced pigmentation reducers like alpha-arbutin, moisturizing agents like isosorbide (such as Beaute by Roquette® PO 500), sorbitol, glycerin... , active solubilizers or boosters like cyclodextrines, perfumes like essential oils, preservatives or preservatives boosters such as Beaute by Roquette® LS 007) or mixture thereof.BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 B
[0288] According to one embodiment, the composition is a compact powder form, said composition comprising from 0.1 to 99.9% of said at least one porous starch, preferably between 5 and 90%, preferably between 10 and 80%, relative to the total weight of the solid composition and further comprises at least one further ingredient chosen from fillers, dry binders, wet binder, coloring agents, sensorial agents, flow agents, cosmetic active ingredients and mixture thereof.
[0289] In another embodiment, the compact powder comprises at least one further ingredient chosen from fillers, dry binders, wet binders, coloring agents, sensorial agents, flow agents, cosmetic active ingredients and mixture thereof, and comprises less than 10% by weight, relative to the total weigh of the solid composition of talc, preferably less than 9% by weight, preferably less than 8% by weight, preferably less than 7% by weight, preferably less than 6% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 4% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition and in a preferred embodiment, the solid composition does not comprises talc.
[0290] In an embodiment, the solid composition, in a compact powder form, comprises: from 0.1 to 99.9 % of said at least one porous starch, preferably between 5 and 90 %, preferably between 10 and 80 %, preferably between 15 and 75%, preferably between 20 and 60%, preferably between 25 and 50 %, preferably between 30 and 40 %, relative to the total weight of the solid composition, and / or from 0 to 80% of said at least one filler, preferably between 1 and 80%, preferably between 0.5 and 60%, preferably between 5 and 45%, preferably between 8 and 40%, preferably between 10 and 35%, relative to the total weight of the solid composition, and / or, from 0 to 50% of said at least one dry binder, preferably 0.1 to 25% of said at least one dry binder, preferably between 1 and 15%, preferably between 2 and 10%, preferably between 3 and 8%, relative to the total weight of the solid composition, and / or from 0 to 50% of said at least one wet binder, preferably between 0.1 and 50% of said at least one wet binder, preferably between 1 and 25%, preferably between 2 and 20%, preferably between 3 and 16%, relative to the total weight of the solid composition, and / or from 0 to 50% of said at least one coloring agent, preferably between 0.01 and 40%, preferably between 0.1 and 25%, preferably between 0.2 and 10%, preferably between 0.5 and 5%, relative to the total weight of the solid composition, and / or from 0 to 15% of said at least one sensorial agent, preferably between 0.1 and 10%, preferably between 0.2 and 10%, preferably between 1 and 10%, relative to the total weight of the solid composition, and / or from 0 to 5% of said at least one flow agent, preferably between 0.01 and 3%, preferably between 0.1 and 2%, preferably between 0.2 and 1 %, relative to the total weight of the solid composition, and / orBR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 B from 0 to 7% of said at least one cosmetic active ingredient, preferably between 0.01 to 5%, preferably between 0.1 and 3%, preferably between 0.5 and 2%, relative to the total weight of the solid composition, less than 10% by weight, relative to the total weigh of the solid composition of talc, preferably less than 9% by weight, preferably less than 8% by weight, preferably less than 7% by weight, preferably less than 6% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 4% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1 % by weight and preferably 0% of talc, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0291] According to a preferred embodiment, the solid composition, in a compact powder form, comprises at least one porous starch at a content between 5 and 90%, preferably between 10 and 80% and preferably from 15 and 70% relative to the total weight of the solid composition, at least one filler at a content preferably from 0.5 to 80% relative to the total weight of the solid composition, at least one wet binder at a content from 0.1 and 15% relative to the total weight of the solid composition, and at least one coloring agent at a content from 0.01 and 40%, relative to the total weight of the solid composition.
[0292] According to a preferred embodiment, the solid composition, in a compact powder form, comprises at least one porous starch at a content from 5 and 90%, preferably from 10 to 80% and more preferably from 15 to 70% relative to the total weight of the solid composition, and at least one cosmetic active ingredient at a content between 0.01 and 5% relative to the total weight of the solid composition.
[0293] Process for obtaining a compact powder
[0294] The compact powder according to the invention may be obtained by a two-steps process. A first step is the mixing of all the constituents of the compact powder, to form a dry blend of the ingredients, referred as a dry “pre-mix”. A second step is the compacting of said dry pre-mix to form the compacted powder.
[0295] According to an embodiment, the process may comprise, or consist of, the following steps:
[0296] 1 / premixing of the coloring agents, in particular to allow the pigments to develop their color, in a mixer, such as a coffee grinder, without excessive heating, preferably at room temperature, while taking care not to form agglomerates,
[0297] 2 / addition of fillers and of the composition for cosmetic products into the pre-mix of coloring agents, then mix in a mixer, such as a coffee grinder, while maintaining room temperature,
[0298] 3 / addition of the dry binder and / or wet binder, previously heated to become liquid, in the obtained mixture from step 2) in a mixer, such as a coffee grinder, at room temperature, to obtain the dry pre-mix that is ready to be compacted.BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 B
[0299] 4 / loading of an appropriate quantity of dry pre-mix from step 3) into an appropriate bucket, placing the loaded bucket in the compactor machine, and then compacting:- at a pressure between 20 and 60 bars, preferably between 30 and 50 bars, preferably between 35 and 45 bars,- during 1 to 120 seconds, preferably during 2 to 60 seconds, preferably during 3 to 30 seconds, preferably during 4 to 20 seconds, preferably during 5 to 15 seconds, preferably during 10 to 15 seconds.
[0300] According to one embodiment of the process for obtaining a compact powder, the compacting is made in buckets made of aluminum or of galvanized steel with gold varnish, preferably of galvanized steel with gold varnish.
[0301] Loose powder or free-flowing powder
[0302] As used herein, a “loose powder” also named “free-flowing powder” is a finely milled, uncompressed cosmetic powder that comes in a free-flowing form.
[0303] In an embodiment, the solid composition is a loose powder, which may be used “as such” as a cosmetic or care product, or may be an ingredient to be incorporated into cosmetic or care products.
[0304] In an embodiment, the loose powder is chosen from translucent setting powder, foundation powder, finishing powder, blotting powder, color correcting powder, bronzing powder, highlighting powder, blush powder, contour powder, shimmer powder, mattifying powder, sunscreen powder, dry shampoo powder, body powder, foot powder, perfumed dusting powder, glitter powder, volumizing hair powder, texturizing hair powder, root touch-up powder, hair lightening powder, scalp soothing powder, baby powder, diaper rash powder, tooth powder, deodorant powder, cooling powder, sweatabsorbing powder, makeup brush cleaning powder, facial mask powder and exfoliating powder.
[0305] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product is a loose powder, wherein said loose powder comprises from 0.1 to 100% of the composition for cosmetic products, preferably between 1 and 99.9%, preferably between 5 and 99%, preferably between 10 and 90%, preferably between 20 and 80%, preferably between 30 and 70%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.
[0306] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product is a loose powder, said cosmetic product comprising from 1 to 99.9% of the composition for cosmetic products, preferably between 5 and 90%, preferably between 10 and 85%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, and further comprises at least one further ingredient chosen from fillers, dry binders, wet binders, coloring agents, sensorial agents, flow agents, cosmetic active ingredients and mixture thereof.
[0307] In an embodiment, the solid composition, in a loose powder form, further comprises at least one filler.
[0308] Fillers are described hereinbefore.
[0309] In an embodiment, the solid composition, in a loose powder form, comprises from 0 to 99.9% of said at least one filler, preferably between 0 and 95%, preferably between 0.5 and 80%, preferablyBR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 B between 1 and 75%, preferably between 8 and 40%, relative to the total weight of the solid composition. In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises more porous starch than filler, in particular the ratio of the weight of porous starch divided by the weigh of filler is greater than 1 , or preferably greater than 2, or preferably greater than 3.
[0310] In an embodiment, the loose powder further comprises at least one dry binder.
[0311] Dry binders are described hereinbefore.
[0312] In an embodiment, the loose powder comprises from 0 to 60% of said at least one dry binder, preferably between 0 and 50%, preferably between 0 and 30%, preferably between 0 and 20%, preferably between 0 and 5%, preferably between 0 and 4%, preferably between 0 and 2%, relative to the total weight of the loose powder.
[0313] In an embodiment, the loose powder further comprises at least one wet binder.
[0314] Wet binders are described hereinbefore.
[0315] In an embodiment, the loose powder comprises from 0 to 40% of said at least one wet binder, preferablu from 0 to 30%, preferably from 0.01 to 25%, preferably from 0.1 and 15%, preferably from 0.2 and 10%, preferably from 0.5 and 8%, and preferably from 1 to 5 %, relative to the total weight of the loose powder. In another embodiment, the loose powder comprises from 0 to 5%, preferably from 0 to 4%, preferably from 0 to 3%, relative to the total weight of the loose powder.
[0316] In one embodiment, the loose powder further comprises at least one coloring agent.
[0317] Coloring agents are described hereinbefore.
[0318] In an embodiment, the loose powder comprises from 0 to 50% of said at least one coloring agent, preferably between 0 and 40%, preferably between 0 and 25%, preferably between 0.2 and 10%, preferably between 0.5 and 5%, relative to the total weight of the loose powder.
[0319] In one embodiment, the loose powder form, further comprises at least one sensorial agent.
[0320] Sensorial agents are described hereinbefore.
[0321] In an embodiment, the loose powder comprises from 0 to 20% of said at least one sensorial agent, preferably between 0 and 15%, preferably between 0.2 and 10%, preferably between 1 and 10%, preferably between 1 and 8%, relative to the total weight of the loose powder.
[0322] In one embodiment, the loose powder further comprises at least one flow agent.
[0323] Flow agents are described hereinbefore.
[0324] In an embodiment, the loose powder comprises from 0 to 8% of said at least one flow agent, preferably between 0 and 5%, preferably between 0.01 and 3%, preferably between 0.1 and 2%, preferably between 0.2 and 1 %, relative to the total weight of the loose powder.
[0325] In one embodiment, the loose powder further comprises at least one active cosmetic agent.
[0326] Active cosmetic agents are described hereinbefore.BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 B
[0327] In an embodiment, the loose powder comprises from 0 to 7% of said at least one active cosmetic agent, preferably between 0.01 and 5%, preferably between 0.1 and 3%, preferably between 0.5 and 2%, relative to the total weight of the loose powder.
[0328] In another embodiment, the loose powder further comprises at least one further ingredient chosen from fillers, dry binders, wet binders, coloring agents, sensorial agents, flow agents, cosmetic active ingredients and mixture thereof, and comprises less than 10% by weight, relative to the total weigh of the loose powder of talc, preferably less than 9% by weight, preferably less than 8% by weight, preferably less than 7% by weight, preferably less than 6% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 4% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the loose powder and in a preferred embodiment, the loose powder does not comprises talc.
[0329] In an embodiment, the loose powder comprises: from 0.1 to 100% of said composition for cosmetic products, preferably between 1 and 99.9%, preferably between 5 and 99%, preferably between 25 and 99%, preferably between 20 and 80%, preferably between 30 and 70%, relative to the total weight of the loose powder, and / or from 0 to 99.9% of said at least one filler, preferably between 0 and 95%, preferably between 0.5 and 80%, preferably between 1 and 75%, preferably between 8 and 40 %, relative to the total weight of the loose powder, and / or, from 0 to 5% of said at least one dry binder, preferably between 0 and 4%, preferably between 0 and 2%, relative to the total weight of the loose powder, and / or from 0 to 5% of said at least one wet binder, preferably between 0 and 4%, preferably between 0 and 3%, relative to the total weight of the loose powder, and / or from 0 to 50% of said at least one coloring agent, preferably between 0 and 40%, preferably between 0 and 25%, relative to the total weight of the loose powder, and / or from 0 to 15% of said at least one sensorial agent, preferably between 0 and 10%, preferably between 0 and 8%, relative to the total weight of the loose powder, and / or from 0 to 8% of said at least one flow agent, preferably between 0 and 5%, preferably between 0 and 3%, relative to the total weight of the loose powder, and / or from 0 to 7% of said at least one cosmetic active ingredient, preferably between 0.01 and 5%, preferably between 0.1 and 3%, preferably between 0.5 and 2%, relative to the total weight of the loose powder, less than 10% by weight, relative to the total weigh of the loose powder of talc, preferably less than 9% by weight, preferably less than 8% by weight, preferably less than 7% by weight, preferably less than 6% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 4% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight,BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 B preferably less than 1 % by weight and preferably 0% of talc, relative to the total weight of the loose powder.
[0330] In a preferred embodiment, the loose powder comprises a composition for cosmetic products according to the invention at a content of between 1 and 99.9%, preferably between 1 and 99% and preferably from 5 and 99% relative to the total weight of the loose powder, and at least one filler at a content of from 0.5 to 80% relative to the total weight of the loose powder, and at least one wet binder at a content of from 0.01 to 25% relative to the total weight of the loose powder, and at least one coloring agent at a content of from 0.01 and 40%, relative to the total weight of the loose powder.
[0331] In a preferred embodiment, the loose powder comprises a composition for cosmetic products according to the invention at a content of between 1 and 99.9%, preferably between 1 and 99% and preferably from 5 and 99% relative to the total weight of the loose powder, and at least one cosmetic active ingredient at a content of between 0.01 and 5% relative to the total weight of the loose powder.
[0332] Process for obtaining a loose powder
[0333] The loose powder according to the invention may be prepared according to the following protocol :
[0334] 1 / premixing of the coloring agents, in particular to allow the pigments to develop their color, in a mixer, such as a coffee grinder, without excessive heating, preferably at room temperature, while taking care not to form agglomerates,
[0335] 2 / addition of fillers and of the composition for cosmetic products into the pre-mix of coloring agents, then mix in a mixer, such as a coffee grinder, while maintaining room temperature,
[0336] 3 / addition of the dry binder and / or wet binder, previously heated to become liquid, in the obtained mixture from step 2) in a mixer, such as a coffee grinder, at room temperature, to obtain the loose powder.
[0337] Semi free-flowing powder
[0338] As used herein, a “semi free-flowing powder” is a cosmetic powder formulation that exhibits properties between those of a traditional pressed compact powder and a loose powder. It has a partially cohesive texture that allows for some movement of particles while maintaining a degree of structural integrity.
[0339] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product is a semi free-flowing powder, which may be used “as such” as a cosmetic or care product, or may be an ingredient to be incorporated into cosmetic or care products.
[0340] In an embodiment, the semi free-flowing powder is chosen from setting powder, foundation powder, finishing powder, blotting powder, color correcting powder, bronzing powder, highlighting powder, blush powder, contour powder, shimmer powder, mattifying powder, sunscreen powder, dry shampoo powder, body powder, foot powder, perfumed dusting powder, glitter powder, volumizing hair powder, texturizing hair powder, root touch-up powder, hair lightening powder, scalp soothingBR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-IB powder, baby powder, diaper rash powder, tooth powder, deodorant powder, cooling powder, sweatabsorbing powder, makeup brush cleaning powder, facial mask powder and exfoliating powder.
[0341] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product is a semi free-flowing powder, wherein said semi free-flowing powder comprises from 0.1 to 99.9% of a composition for cosmetic products, preferably between 1 and 99%, preferably between 5 and 90%, preferably between 10 and 80%, preferably between 25 and 75%, preferably between 30 and 70%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.
[0342] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product is a semi free-flowing powder, said cosmetic product comprising from 0.1 to 99.9% of a composition for cosmetic products, preferably between 1 and 99%, preferably between 5 and 90%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, and further comprises at least one further ingredient chosen from fillers, dry binders, wet binders, coloring agents, sensorial agents, flow agents, cosmetic active ingredients and mixture thereof.
[0343] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product, in a semi free-flowing powder form, further comprises at least one filler.
[0344] Fillers are described hereinbefore.
[0345] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product, in a semi free-flowing powder form, comprises from 0.5 to 80% of said at least one filler, preferably between 5 and 60%, preferably between 8 and 40%, preferably between 10 and 35%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product. In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic product, in a semi-free flowing powder form, comprises more porous starch than filler, in particular the ratio of the weight of porous starch divided by the weigh of filler is greater than 1 , or preferably greater than 2, or preferably greater than3.
[0346] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product, in a semi free-flowing powder form, further comprises at least one dry binder.
[0347] Dry binders are described hereinbefore.
[0348] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product, in a semi free-flowing powder form, comprises from 0.1 to 50% of said at least one dry binder, preferably between 1 and 30%, preferably between 2 and 20%, prefebly between 5 and 15%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product. In another embodiment, the c cosmetic product, in a semi free-flowing powder form, comprises from 0.1 to 10% of said at least one dry binder, preferably between 0.5 and 7%, preferably between 1 and 5%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.
[0349] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product, in a semi free-flowing powder form, further comprises at least one wet binder.
[0350] Wet binders are described hereinbefore.
[0351] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product, in a semi free-flowing powder form, comprises from 0.01 to 25% of said at least one wet binder, preferably from 0.1 and 15%, preferably from 0.2 andBR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 B10%, preferably from 0.5 and 8%, and preferably from 1 to 5 %, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.
[0352] In one embodiment, the cosmetic product, in a semi free-flowing powder form, further comprises at least one coloring agent.
[0353] Coloring agents are described hereinbefore.
[0354] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product, in a semi free-flowing powder form, comprises from 0 to 40% of said at least one coloring agent, preferably between 0 and 25%, preferably between 0 and 10%, preferably between 1 and 9%, preferably between 5 and 8%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product. In another embodiment, the solid composition comprises between 0.5 and 5% of at least on coloring agent, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.
[0355] In one embodiment, the cosmetic product, in a semi free-flowing powder form, further comprises at least one sensorial agent.
[0356] Sensorial agents are described hereinbefore.
[0357] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product, in a semi free-flowing powder form, comprises from 0 to 15% of said at least one sensorial agent, preferably between 0 and 10%, preferably between 0 and 8%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.
[0358] In one embodiment, the cosmetic product, in semi free-flowing powder form, further comprises at least one flow agent.
[0359] Flow agents are described hereinbefore.
[0360] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product, in a semi free-flowing powder form, comprises from 0.01 to 5% of said at least one flow agent, preferably between 0.1 and 2%, preferably between 0.2 and 1 %, preferably between 0.2 and 0.5%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.
[0361] In one embodiment, the cosmetic product, in a semi free-flowing powder form, further comprises at least one active cosmetic agent.
[0362] Active cosmetic agents are described hereinbefore.
[0363] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product, in a semi free-flowing powder form, comprises from 0 to 7% of said at least one active cosmetic agent, preferably between 0.01 and 5%, preferably between 0.1 and 3%, preferably between 0.5 and 2%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.
[0364] In another embodiment, the cosmetic product, in a loose powder further comprises at least one further ingredient chosen from fillers, dry binders, wet binders, coloring agents, sensorial agents, flow agents, cosmetic active ingredients and mixture thereof, and comprises less than 10% by weight, relative to the total weigh of the cosmetic product of talc, preferably less than 9% by weight, preferably less than 8% by weight, preferably less than 7% by weight, preferably less than 6% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 4% by weight, preferably less thanBR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 B3% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product and in a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic product does not comprises talc.
[0365] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product, in a semi free-flowing powder form, comprises: from 0.1 to 99.9% of a composition for cosmetic products, preferably between 10 and 80%, preferably between 25 and 75%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, and / or from 0.5 to 80% of said at least one filler, preferably between 5 and 60%, preferably between 8 and 40%, preferably between 10 and 35%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, and / or, from 0.1 to 10% of said at least one dry binder, preferably between 0.5 and 7%, preferably between 1 and 5%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, and / or from 0.01 to 25% of said at least one wet binder, preferably between 0.1 and 15%, preferably between 0.2 and 10%, preferably between 0.5 and 8%, preferably between 1 and 5%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, and / or from 0 to 10% of said at least one coloring agent, preferably between 1 and 9%, preferably between 5 and 8%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, and / or from 0 to 15% of said at least one sensorial agent, preferably between 0 and 10%, preferably between 0 and 8%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, and / or from 0.01 to 5% of said at least one flow agent, preferably between 0.1 and 2%, preferably between 0.2 and 1 %, preferably between 0.2 and 0.5%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, and / or from 0 to 7% of said at least one cosmetic active ingredient, preferably between 0.01 and 5%, preferably between 0.5 and 2%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, less than 10% by weight, relative to the total weigh of the cosmetic product of talc, preferably less than 9% by weight, preferably less than 8% by weight, preferably less than 7% by weight, preferably less than 6% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 4% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1 % by weight and preferably 0% of talc, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product
[0366] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic product, in a semi free-flowing powder form, comprises a composition for cosmetic products at a content of between 1 and 99%, preferably from 5 to 90%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, and at least one filler at at content of from 0.5 to 80% relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, and at least one wet binder at a content of from 0.01 to 25% relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, and at least one coloring agent at a content of from 0.01 to 40% relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 B
[0367] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic product, in a semi free-flowing powder form, comprises a composition for cosmetic products at a content of between 1 and 99%, preferably from 5 to 90%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, and at least one cosmetic active ingredient at a content of between 0.01 and 5%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.
[0368] Process for obtaining a semi-free-flowinq powder
[0369] The semi-free flowing powder according to the invention may be prepared according to the following protocol :1 / premixing of the coloring agents, in particular to allow the pigments to develop their color, in a mixer, such as a coffee grinder, without excessive heating, preferably at room temperature, while taking care not to form agglomerates,2 / addition of fillers and of the composition for cosmetic products into the pre-mix of coloring agents, then mix in a mixer, such as a coffee grinder, while maintaining room temperature,3 / addition of the dry binder and / or wet binder, previously heated to become liquid, in the obtained mixture from step 2) in a mixer, such as a coffee grinder, at room temperature, to obtain the semifree flowing powder.
[0370] Granulated powder
[0371] As used herein, a “granulated powder” refers to a cosmetic powder formulation consisting of small, discrete particles or granules that are larger than those found in traditional finely milled powders. These granules are textured or customized powder forms and typically obtained through processes comprising dry granulation, wet granulation, agglomeration, tableting, grinding, sieving, roller compaction, extrusion coating, extrusion-spheronisation, fluidized-bed coating or coating pan or spray drying steps, resulting in a texture that is coarser and / or more uniform and / or easy to use than conventional powders. They are also typically developed to create unique textures and aspects in a variety of cosmetic formulations and to facilitate their usage by consumers.
[0372] Granulated powders comprising at least one porous starch, can for example be attractive for creamy make-up products, balms, face creams and cleaning / wash-off products. These granulated powders may also be used as an ingredient for cosmetic products, for example be biodegradable alternatives to polymer powders, beads or spheres based on synthetic polymers such as acrylates / PMMA, polyurethane or styrene copolymer, or based on natural polymers like cellulose.
[0373] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product is a granulated powder.
[0374] In an embodiment, the granulated powder is chosen from foundation, make-up, color correcting, bronzing, highlighting, blush, contour, shimmer, mattifying, sunscreen, dry shampoo, body, foot, perfumed dusting, glitter, volumizing hair , texturizing hair , root touch-up, hair lightening , scalp soothing, baby, diaper rash , tooth , deodorant, cooling, sweat-absorbing , makeup brush cleaning , facial mask and exfoliating granulated powder, beads or spheres.BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 B
[0375] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product is a granulated powder, wherein said granulated powder comprises from 0.1 to 99.9% of a composition for cosmetic products, preferably between 1 and 99%, preferably between 5 and 90%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product. Said composition for cosmetic products can also present between 10 and 80%, preferably between 25 and 75%, preferably between 30 and 70%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.
[0376] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product is a granulated powder, said cosmetic product comprising from 0.1 to 99.9% of a composition for cosmetic products, preferably between 1 and 99%, preferably between 5 and 90%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product and further comprises at least one further ingredient chosen from fillers, dry binders, wet binders, coloring agents, sensorial agents, flow agents, cosmetic active ingredients and mixture thereof.
[0377] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product, in a granulated powder form, further comprises at least one filler.
[0378] Fillers are described hereinbefore.
[0379] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product, in a granulated powder form, comprises from 0.5 to 80% of said at least one filler, preferably between 5 and 60%, preferably between 8 and 40%, preferably between 10 and 35%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product. In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic product according to the invention comprises more porous starch than filler, in particular the ratio of the weight of porous starch divided by the weigh of filler is greater than 1 , or preferably greater than 2, or preferably greater than 3.
[0380] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product, in a granulated form, further comprises at least one dry binder.
[0381] Dry binders are described hereinbefore.
[0382] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product, in a granulated powder form, comprises from 0.1 to 50% of said at least one dry binder, preferably between 1 and 30%, preferably between 2 and 20%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.
[0383] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product, in a granulated powder form, further comprises at least one wet binder.
[0384] Wet binders are described hereinbefore.
[0385] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product, in a granulated powder form, comprises from 0.01 to 40% of said at least one wet binder, preferably from 0.1 and 30%, preferably from 0.2 and 20%, preferably from 0.5 and 15%, and preferably from 1 to 10%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.
[0386] In one embodiment, the cosmetic product, in a granulated powder form, further comprises at least one coloring agent.
[0387] Coloring agents are described hereinbefore.BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 B
[0388] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product, in a granulated powder form, comprises from 0 to 40% of said at least one coloring agent, preferably between 0 and 25%, preferably between 0 and 10%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.
[0389] In one embodiment, the cosmetic product, in a granulated powder form, further comprises at least one sensorial agent.
[0390] Sensorial agents are described hereinbefore.
[0391] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product, in a granulated powder form, comprises from 0 to 15% of said at least one sensorial agent, preferably between 0 and 10%, preferably between 1 and 10%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.
[0392] In one embodiment, the cosmetic product, in a granulated form, further comprises at least one flow agent.
[0393] Flow agents are described hereinbefore.
[0394] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product, in a granulated powder form, comprises from 0 to 5 %, preferably from 0.1 to 2%, preferably from 0.2 and 1 % of said at least one flow agent, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.
[0395] In one embodiment, the cosmetic product, in a granulated powder form, further comprises at least one active cosmetic agent.
[0396] Active cosmetic agents are described hereinbefore.
[0397] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product n, in a granulated powder form, comprises from 0 to 7% of said at least one active cosmetic agent, preferably between 0.01 and 5%, preferably between 0.1 and 3%, preferably between 0.5 and 2%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.
[0398] In another embodiment, the cosmetic product, in a loose powder further comprises at least one further ingredient chosen from fillers, dry binders, wet binders, coloring agents, sensorial agents, flow agents, cosmetic active ingredients and mixture thereof, and comprises less than 10% by weight, relative to the total weigh of the cosmetic product of talc, preferably less than 9% by weight, preferably less than 8% by weight, preferably less than 7% by weight, preferably less than 6% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 4% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product and in a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic product does not comprises talc.
[0399] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product, in a granulated powder form, comprises: from 0.1 to 99.9% of said at least one composition for cosmetic products, preferably between 1 and 99%, preferably between 5 and 90%, preferably between 10 and 80%, preferably between 25 and 75%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, and / orBR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 B from 0.5 to 80% of said at least one filler, preferably between 5 and 60%, preferably between 8 and 40%, preferably between 10 and 35%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, and / or, from 0.1 to 50% of said at least one dry binder, preferably between 1 and 30%, preferably between 2 and 20%, preferably between 5 and 15%, preferably between 1 and 7%, preferably between 0 and 5%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, and / or from 0.01 to 25% of said at least one wet binder, preferably from 0.1 and 15%, preferably from 0.2 and 10%, preferably from 0.5 and 8%, and preferably from 1 to 5 %, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, and / or from 0 to 40% of said at least one coloring agent, preferably between 0 and 25%, preferably between 0 and 10%, preferably between 0.5 and 5%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, and / or from 0 to 15% of said at least one sensorial agent, preferably between 0 and 10%, preferably between 1 and 10%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, and / or from 0 to 5% of said at least one flow agent, preferably between 0.1 and 2%, preferably between 0.2 and 1 %, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, and / or from 0 to 7% of said at least one cosmetic active ingredient, preferably between 0 and 5%, preferably between 0.5 and 2%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, less than 10% by weight, relative to the total weigh of the cosmetic product of talc, preferably less than 9% by weight, preferably less than 8% by weight, preferably less than 7% by weight, preferably less than 6% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 4% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1 % by weight and preferably 0% of talc, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.
[0400] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic product, in a granulated powder form, comprises a composition for cosmetic products at a content of between 1 and 99%, preferably from 5 to 90%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, and at least one filler at a content of between 0.5 and 80% relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, and at least one wet binder at a content of between 0.01 and 25% relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, and at least one coloring agent at a content of between 0.01 and 40%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.
[0401] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic product, in a granulated powder form, comprises a composition for cosmetic products at a content of between 1 and 99%, preferably between 5 and 90%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, and at least one cosmetic active ingredient at a content of between 0.01 and 7%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.
[0402] Process for obtaining a granulated powderBR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 B
[0403] A granulated powder comprising at least one porous starch according to the invention, can be obtained through a large range of processes, comprising especially steps of dry granulation, wet granulation, agglomeration, tableting, grinding, sieving, roller compaction, extrusion coating, extrusion-spheronisation, fluidized-bed coating or coating pan or spray drying.
[0404] Talc
[0405] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product according to the invention, either in a compact powder form, or a free-flowing powder form, or a semi free-flowing powder form or a granulated powder form, comprises less than 50% of talc, preferably less than 20%, preferably less than 10%, preferably less than 9% by weight, preferably less than 8% by weight, preferably less than 7% by weight, preferably less than 6% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 4% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1 % by weight and preferably 0% of talc, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product .
[0406] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic product according to the invention is exempt of talc and is referred as “talc-free”.
[0407] Cosmetic process
[0408] The invention also relates to a process for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratin materials such as the hair or the skin, and in particular the skin of the body, of the face, of the buttocks, especially the buttocks of the infant, of the periorbital area and of the eyelids, characterized in that it comprises the application to said keratin materials of a cosmetic product as previously described.
[0409] Preferably, the cosmetic product according to the invention may be a solid cosmetic product such as a compact powder form, or a free-flowing powder form, or a semi free-flowing powder form or a granulated powder form, preferably a compact powder or a loose powder, preferably a compact powder.
[0410] The cosmetic product according to the invention may be applied by means of any applicator suitable for a compact powder such as a powder puff or brush, a sponge applicator or for a loose powder such as powder puff or brush, a powder spray applicator, or for a semi free-flowing powder such as velour puff, sponge applicator with pores, flat powder brush, or for a granulated powder such as dense bristle brush, foam applicator, silicone applicator.
[0411] Assembly
[0412] According to another aspect, the invention also relates to a cosmetic assembly comprising: i) A container delimiting one or more compartment(s), said contained being closed by a closing member, and ii) A cosmetic product and / or care product, especially a make-up composition, in accordance with the invention placed inside said compartment(s).BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 B
[0413] The container may be, for example, in the form of a jar, or a box or a compact or a bottle or a bod. The closing member may be in the form of a lid comprising a cap mounted so as to be able to move by translation or by pivoting relative to the container housing said cosmetic product and / or care product.
[0414] Said container may be combined with a suitable applicator as described hereinabove.[04151 Use
[0416] According to another aspect, the invention also relates to a use of a porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, preferentially greater than 85%, preferably greater than 90%, preferably greater than 95%, preferably greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch as a sensorial bulking agent.
[0417] As used herein, the term “sensorial bulking agent” means an agent used in cosmetic formulations, particularly in solid compositions such as compact powders that: contributes to stability of compaction of the solid composition, preferably the compact powder, under both normal (50% relative humidity) and challenging conditions (particularly “cold dry” 4°C-50%relative humidity, and “warm wet” 35°C and 85% relative humidity) and maintains the structural integrity of the solid composition, preferably the compact powder, over extended periods, contributes, or maintain, or enhances, the resistance to fall of the solid composition, preferably the compact powder, meaning that it preserves the structural integrity and performance of the solid composition, preferably the compact powder over extended periods, ensuring product consistency throughout its shelf life, while simultaneously contributing (enhancing) the sensory properties of the product. These agents are designed to achieve an optimal balance between mechanical resistance, environmental stability, and desirable sensory properties.
[0418] Advantageously, the sensorial bulking agent is characterized by its:Compatibility: it integrates well with a large panel of ingredients in the formulation without compromising their efficacy.Versatility: it is adaptable to various types of cosmetic products.Functional properties: it may offer additional benefits such as oil absorption, mattifying effects, or light diffusion.Safety profile: Meets regulatory standards and addresses potential health concerns associated with traditional bulking agents like talc.
[0419] In an embodiment, the present invention also relates to the use of a porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 25 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, preferentiallyBR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 B greater than 50%, preferably greater than 70%, preferably greater than 95%, preferably greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch for: contributing to stability of compaction of a solid composition, preferably a compact powder, preferably under both normal (50% relative humidity) and challenging conditions (typically 4°C and 85% relative humidity), and maintaining the structural integrity of said solid composition, preferably a compact powder, over extended periods, and / or enhancing the resistance to fall of a solid composition, preferably a compact powder, and enhancing the sensory properties of the product.
[0420] Hence, in an embodiment, the present invention also relates to the use of a porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80% relative to the total weight of the porous starch for improving the compaction stability of a solid cosmetic composition, preferably a compact powder, under both normal and high humidity conditions.
[0421] In an embodiment, the present invention also relates to the use of a porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80% relative to the total weight of the porous starch for maintaining the structural integrity of a solid cosmetic composition, preferably a compact powder.
[0422] In an embodiment, the present invention also relates to the use of a porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80% relative to the total weight of the porous starch for enhancing the resistance to fall of a solid cosmetic composition, preferably a compact powder.
[0423] In an embodiment, the present invention also relates to the use of a porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80% relative to the total weight of the porous starch for improving the sensory properties (such as smoothness, cushion effect, softness, and homogeneity) of a cosmetic composition.
[0424] The stability of compaction can be determined by any method known by the one skilled in the art, and typically can be visually observed and characterized as either “good”, which corresponds to a smooth surface sitting perfectly in place in the aluminium crucible, or “bad”, which corresponds to the presence of cracks (qualified as “cracked”), and / or the detachment and lifting of the powder (qualified as “lifted”) and / or the formation of a dome. The stability of compaction of a solid composition thus contributes maintaining its structural integrity.
[0425] The resistance to fall can be determined by any method known by the one skilled in the art, and typically can be evaluated by submitting compact powders to a “fall test” as described in the examples.
[0426] As used herein, “sensory properties” means a cushion effect and / or slippery and / or softness and / or homogenous and / or smoothness, and preferably smoothness.
[0427] In an embodiment, the present invention also relates to the use of a porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80% relative to the total weight of the porous starch for achievingBR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-IB an optimal balance between mechanical resistance, environmental stability, and sensory properties in a solid cosmetic composition.
[0428] As described above, the porous way starch according to the invention have enhanced absorption capacity which directly translates into an improved matifying effect on the skin, as the porous starches are able to efficiently absorb both sebum and sweat,
[0429] Hence, in an embodiment, the present invention also relates to the use of a porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80% relative to the total weight of the porous starch for providing a mattifying effect on the skin in a cosmetic composition.
[0430] In an embodiment, the present invention also relates to the use of a porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80% relative to the total weight of the porous starch for increasing the oil and / or sweat absorption capacity of a cosmetic composition.
[0431] In another embodiment, the present invention also relates to a method for contributing to stability of compaction of a solid composition, preferably a compact powder, preferably under both normal (50% relative humidity) and challenging conditions (typically 4°C and 85% relative humidity), and / or maintaining the structural integrity of said solid composition, preferably a compact powder, over extended periods, and / or enhancing the resistance to fall of a solid composition, preferably a compact powder, and enhancing the sensory properties of the product, by adding, in a solid composition, preferably a compact powder, a porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 25 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, preferentially greater than 50%, preferably greater than 70%, preferably greater than 95%, preferably greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, as a sensory bulking agent.
[0432] All the previous described embodiments are encompassed by these aspects.
[0433] The porous waxy starch used is as defined in the present application and notably in paragraphs
[0189] to
[0212] and
[0443] to
[0462] of the present application.
[0434] Process
[0435] The porous waxy starches according to the invention can be obtained through any technique known to those skilled in the art. Typically, these starches may be produced using the process described in WO2021 / 144245. Additionally, the inventors have developed a specific process for obtaining these starches. This process comprises the following steps:1 . Prepare a slurry of granular starch at a specified dry substance concentration in demineralized water.2. Increase the temperature of the slurry to a value below the starch gelatinization temperature.3. Slowly add a base solution to adjust the pH to a desired value.BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 B4. Add an enzyme (such as a-amylase) at a specified volume per gram of dry starch, and mix well.5. Incubate the mixture at the specified temperature until the desired degree of hydrolysis is reached.6. Deactivate the enzyme by adjusting the pH to a specified value using an acid solution, and allow it to react for a specified duration with stirring while cooling to room temperature.7. Neutralize the slurry to a specified pH using a base solution.8. Collect the porous starch using vacuum filtration and wash it multiple times with water, with the water volume each time equivalent to the volume of the filtration cake.9. Dry the starch using a fluidized bed dryer at a specified temperature and airflow to achieve the desired moisture content.10. Pass the dried starch through a sieve with specified openings to remove impurities.1 1. Sieve the porous starch with a vibrating sieve of specified micron openings according to the desired granulometry.
[0436] In an embodiment, the slurry of the waxy granular starch is at 35% dry substance.
[0437] In an embodiment, the temperature of the slurry is increased at 50°C.
[0438] In an embodiment, the amylase is an a-amylase. The skilled artisan is well-versed in determining the appropriate quantity of amylase to add per gram of dry starch.
[0439] In an embodiment, the incubation temperature is 50°C. The one skilled in the art knows how to measure the hydrolysis degree.
[0440] In an embodiment, the pH of deactivation of the enzyme is 3.5.
[0441] In an embodiment, the neutralization pH is 5.5.
[0442] In an embodiment, all steps of this process can be performed under gentle agitation.
[0443] Specific porous waxy starch
[0444] Thanks to the specific process described above, the applicant has advantageously developed specific porous waxy starches, which can be advantageously used according to the invention.
[0445] Thus, according to another aspect, the invention also relates to a porous starches having an amylopectin content greater than 80 %, preferably greater than 90%, preferably greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, wherein said porous starch has: a specific surface area, as measured with BET method, of more than 0.9 m2 / g and preferably around 1 m2 / g, and / or an average pore diameter comprised between 0.1 to 4 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 0.2 and 2 micrometers (pm) (microns), and / or a porosity comprised between 0.35 and 0.55 cm3 / g, and / orBR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 B a water content comprised between 6 and 20%, preferably between 8 and 15%, preferably between 10 and 15%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch and / or a reducing sugar content of less than 3.5% by weight, or better less than 2% by weight, or better less than 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, and / or less than 3% by weight of protein relative to the total weight of porous starch, or better less than 2% by weight, or less than 1 % by weight and about 0.10 to 0.5% by weight of protein. a degree of hydrolysis comprised between 5 and 35%, preferably between 8 and 30%, preferably between 10 and 25%, preferably between 12 and 20% and preferably around 15 %, and / or a volumetric particle size distribution, measured by laser diffraction granulometry, the characteristic diameters d(10), d(50) and d(90) of which are such that:The diameter d(10) is of less than 10 micrometers (pm) (microns) and preferably comprised between 2 and 9 micrometers (pm) (microns),The diameter d(50) is of less than 25 micrometers (pm) (microns) and preferably comprised between 5 and 20 micrometers (pm) (microns),The diameter d(90) is comprised of less than 250 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than 120 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than 50 micrometers (pm) (microns), and / or an elastic recovery of less than 16%, preferably less than 15.5%, preferably less than 15% when a compression of 10kN is applied and / or an elastic recovery of less than 15%, preferably less than 14.5%, preferably less than 14%, when a compression of 5kN is applied.
[0446] In a preferred embodiment, the porous starch has an amylopectin content greater than 80% relative to the total weight of the porous starch, wherein said porous starch has: an average specific surface area, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with the BJH model, of more than 0.4 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.5 m2 / g; an average visible pore diameter comprised between 0.05 and 4 micrometers (pm), preferably between 0.05 and 2 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 0.2 and 1 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 0.2 and 0.6 micrometers (pm) (microns); an average pore volume as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model comprised between 2.0 and 8.0 mm3 / g, preferably between 2.5 and 7.0 mm3 / g; a water content comprised between 6% and 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the porous starch; a degree of hydrolysis comprised between 5% and 35%; a volumetric particle size distribution, measured by laser diffraction granulometry, the characteristic diameters, d(10), d(50) and d(90) of which are such that:BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 B- The diameter at 10th percentiles d(10) is comprised between 3 and 9 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 3.5 and 9 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 3.6 and 8.9 micrometers (pm) (microns),- The diameter at 50th percentiles d(50) is comprised between 10 and 18 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 10.5 and 17.5 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 11 and 17 micrometers (pm) (microns),- The diameter at 90th percentiles d(90) is comprised between 17 and 40 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 17 and 39 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 17 and 38.5 micrometers (pm) (microns). an elastic recovery of less than 16% when a compression of 10 kN is applied, and less than 15% when a compression of 5 kN is applied.
[0447] In a preferred embodiment, the above porous starch is selected among a porous rice starch or a porous corn starch.
[0448] Specific porous waxy rice starch
[0449] According to an embodiment, the invention concerns a porous starch which is a rice starch having an amylose content greater than 80%, preferably greater than 95%, preferably greater than 99%, preferably greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, wherein said porous rice starch has: a specific surface area, as measured with BET method, of more than 0.9m2 / g and preferably more than 1 m2 / g, and more preferably around 1.5m2 / g, and an average visible pore diameter comprised between 0.1 to 4 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 0.2 and 2 micrometers (pm) (microns), and a porosity comprised between 0.35 and 0.55 cm3 / g, and a water content comprised between 6 and 15 %, preferably between 8 and 13%, preferably between 10 and 12 %, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, and a degree of hydrolysis comprised between 5 and 35%, preferably between 7 and 30%, preferably between 8 and 25%, preferably between 9 and 16%, and a volumetric particle size distribution, measured by laser diffraction granulometry, the characteristic diameters d(10), d(50) and d(90) of which are such that:The diameter d(10) is of less than 10 micrometers (pm) (microns) and preferably comprised between 3 and 6 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 3 and 4 micrometers (pm) (microns), andThe diameter d(50) is of less than 20 micrometers (pm) (microns) and preferably comprised between 5 and 8 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 5 and 7 micrometers (pm) (microns), andBR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 BThe diameter d(90) is of less than 120 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than 50 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than 30 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than 17 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than 17 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than 15 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably comprised between 10 and 18 micrometers (pm) (microns), and more preferably between 12 and 16 micrometers (pm) (microns), and an elastic recovery of less than 15%, preferably less than 14.5%, when a compression of 10kN is applied, and an elastic recovery of less than 12.5%, preferably of less than 12%, when a compression of 5kN is applied.
[0450] In an embodiment, the composition comprises in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one porous starch which is a rice starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, wherein said porous rice starch has: a degree of hydrolysis comprised between 8% and 15%, an average specific surface area, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with the BJH model, comprised between 0.65 and 1.0 m2 / g, preferably between 0.68 and 0.95 m2 / g; an average pore volume, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with the BJH model, comprised between 5.5 and 8.5 mm3 / g, preferably between 5.8 and 7.5 mm3 / g; an average visible pore diameter comprised between 0.1 and 4 micrometers (pm), preferably between 0.2 and 2 pm, preferably between 0.2 and 1 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 0.2 and 0.6 micrometers (pm) (microns); a water content comprised between 10% and 14% by weight, preferably between 11 % and 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the porous starch; a bulk density comprised between 0.35 and 0.40 g / mL, preferably between 0.37 and 0.39 g / mL; a particle size distribution, measured by laser diffraction granulometry, such that:The diameter at 10thpercentiles d(10) is comprised between 1 and 5 micrometers (pm), preferably between 3.5 and 4.5 micrometers (pm),The diameter at 50thpercentiles d(50) is comprised between 6 and 15 micrometers (pm), preferably 6 and 10 micrometers (pm),The diameter at 90thpercentiles d(90) is comprised between 16 and 40 micrometers (pm), preferably between 18 and 40 micrometers (pm).BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 B an elastic recovery at 5 kN comprised between 10% and 13%, preferably between 10% and 12%; an elastic recovery at 10 kN comprised between 13% and 15.
[0451] Specific porous waxy corn starch
[0452] According to another aspect, the invention also relates to a porous corn starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 %, preferably greater than 95%, preferably greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, wherein said porous corn starch has: a specific surface area, as measured with BET method, of more than 0.9 m2 / g and preferably around 1 m2 / g, and an average visible pore diameter comprised between 0.1 to 4 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 0.2 and 2 micrometers (pm) (microns), and a total pore volume comprised between 0.982 and 1 .25 cm3 / g, and a porosity comprised between 0.35 and 0.55 cm3 / g, and a water content comprised between 6 and 15%, preferably between 8 and 13%, preferably between 9 and 11 %, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, and a degree of hydrolysis comprised between 5 and 35%, preferably between 8 and 30%, preferably between 10 and 25%, preferably between 12 and 20% and preferably around 15%, and a volumetric particle size distribution, measured by laser diffraction granulometry, the characteristic diameters d(10), d(50) and d(90) of which are such that:The diameter d(10) is of less than 10 micrometers (pm) (microns) and preferably comprised between 8 and 9 micrometers (pm) (microns), andThe diameter d(50) is of less than 20 micrometers (pm) (microns) and preferably comprised between 13 and 15 micrometers (pm) (microns), andThe diameter d(90) is lower than 250 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably lower than 100 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably comprised between 20 and 50 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 20 and 40 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 21 and 35 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 22 and 30 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 23 and 27 micrometers (pm) (microns), and preferably equal to 25 micrometers (pm) (microns), and an elastic recovery of less than 16%, preferably less than 15.5%, preferably less than 15%, when a compression of 10kN is applied, and an elastic recovery of less than 15%, preferably less than 14.5%, preferably less than 14%, when a compression of 5kN is applied.BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 B
[0453] In a preferred embodiment, the invention relates to a porous corn starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 %, preferably greater than 95%, preferably greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, wherein said porous corn starch has: a specific surface area, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with the BJH model, between 0.4 and 1.2 m2 / g, preferably between 0.5 and 1.0 m2 / g, and an average visible pore diameter comprised between 0.1 to 4 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 0.2 and 1 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 0.2 and 0.6 micrometers (pm) (microns), and an average pore volume comprised between 2.0 and 5.0 mm3 / g, preferably between 2.5 and 4.5 mm3 / g, and a water content comprised between 6 and 15%, preferably between 8 and 13%, preferably between 9 and 11 %, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, and a degree of hydrolysis comprised between 5 and 35%, preferably between 8 and 30%, preferably between 10 and 25%, preferably between 12 and 20%, and a volumetric particle size distribution, measured by laser diffraction granulometry, wherein:The d[4;3] is comprised between 8 and 25 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 10 and 20, or preferably between 13 and 19 micrometers (pm) (microns),The diameter at 10th percentiles d(10) is comprised between 5 and 10 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 7 and 10 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 8 and 10 micrometers (pm) (microns),The diameter at 50th percentiles d(50) is comprised between 10 and 20 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 12 and 18 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 13 and 17 micrometers (pm) (microns),The diameter at 90th percentiles d(90) is comprised between 20 and 45 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 19 and 45 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 21 and 40micrometers (pm) (microns), and an elastic recovery of less than 16%, preferably less than 15.5%, preferably less than 15%, when a compression of 10kN is applied, and an elastic recovery of less than 15%, preferably less than 14.5%, preferably less than 14%, when a compression of 5kN is applied.
[0454] This specific particle size distribution, characterized by d[4;3], d(10), d(50), and d(90) parameters, delivers exceptional sensory properties and ensures a uniform, agglomerate-free population. The carefully controlled granulometric profile optimizes tactile perception while maintaining excellent flowability and dispersion characteristics. This precise size distributionBR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 B eliminates unwanted particle clustering, resulting in a smooth, consistent texture that enhances both performance and user experience.
[0455] Furthermore, the optimized particle population of the porous starch according to the invention is characterized by stringent size control comprising less than 5% of particles exceeding 50pm and less than 0.5% of particles exceeding 100pm.
[0456] Hence, in one embodiment, the particle population of the porous starch according to the invention comprises less than 5% of particles of porous starch having a size greater than 50pm, preferably less than 2%, more preferably less than 1 %, relative to the total population. In another embodiment, the particle population preferably comprises less than 0.5% of particles of porous starch having a size greater than 100pm, more preferably less than 0.1 %, most preferably less than 0.05%, relative to the total population. Preferably, both parameters are combined to achieve optimal particle size distribution.
[0457] Hence, the resulting particle population is essentially agglomerate-free, with individual particles maintaining their discrete characteristics. This agglomerate-free state is critical for achieving reproducible sensory properties and ensuring homogeneous dispersion throughout the formulation
[0458] In this embodiment, the particle size distribution parameters have been meticulously engineered to deliver exceptional tactile properties and skin feel. The precisely controlled granulometric characteristics ensure optimal powder flowability, smooth application, and superior sensory perception upon skin contact. This carefully optimized particle size profile provides an enhanced tactile experience with improved spreadability and a refined, silky touch, making it particularly well-suited for cosmetic and dermatological applications where skin comfort and sensory appeal are of paramount importance.
[0459] For applications where sensory considerations are not critical, particularly in pharmaceutical and agri-food sectors, the particle size distribution parameters can encompass wider ranges. These expanded granulometric specifications offer enhanced manufacturing flexibility and process tolerance while preserving the essential functional properties of the porous starch, enabling economical production for industrial applications where performance and stability take precedence over sensory refinement.
[0460] Hence, the invention also relates to a porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80% relative to the total weight of the porous starch, wherein said porous starch has: an average specific surface area, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with the BJH model, of more than 0.4 m2 / g; an average visible pore diameter comprised between 0.05 and 4 micrometers (pm); an average pore volume, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with the BJH model, comprised between 2.0 and 8.0 mirf / g; a water content comprised between 6% and 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the porous starch;BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 B a degree of hydrolysis comprised between 5% and 35%; a volumetric particle size distribution, measured by laser diffraction granulometry, the characteristic diameters d[4;3], d(10), d(50) and d(90) of which are such that: the d[4;3] is comprised between 10 and 50 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 20 and 40 micrometers (pm) (microns), the diameter at 10th percentiles d(10) is comprised between 7 and 15 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 8 and 14 micrometers (pm) (microns), the diameter at 50th percentiles d(50) is comprised between 15 and 30 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 15 and 25 micrometers (pm) (microns), the diameter at 90th percentiles d(90) is comprised between 60 and 80 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 65 and 75 micrometers (pm) (microns). an elastic recovery of less than 16% when a compression of 10 kN is applied, and less than 15% when a compression of 5 kN is applied.
[0461] In a preferred embodiment, the_porous starch is selected among a porous rice starch or a porous corn starch.
[0462] The present invention also relates to a porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80% relative to the total weight of the porous starch, wherein said porous starch has: an average specific surface area, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with the BJH model, of more than 0.4 m2 / g; an average visible pore diameter comprised between 0.05 and 4 micrometers (pm); an average pore volume, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with the BJH model, comprised between 2.0 and 8.0 mirf / g; a water content comprised between 6% and 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the porous starch; a degree of hydrolysis comprised between 5% and 35%; a volumetric particle size distribution, measured by laser diffraction granulometry, the characteristic diameters d[4;3], d(10), d(50) and d(90) of which are such that: the volume-weighted mean diameter d[4;3] is comprised between 10 and 50 micrometers (pm), and preferably between 15 and 35 micrometers The diameter at 10th percentiles d(10) is comprised between 7 and 15 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 8 and 14 micrometers (pm) (microns),The diameter at 50th percentiles d(50) is comprised between 15 and 30 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 15 and 25 micrometers (pm) (microns),BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 BThe diameter at 90th percentiles d(90) is comprised between 30 and 60 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 35 and 55 micrometers (pm) (microns). an elastic recovery of less than 16% when a compression of 10 kN is applied, and less than 15% when a compression of 5 kN is applied.
[0463] Mattifyinq agent:
[0464] In the present application, “mattifying agent” means that the porous starch according to the invention:- provides an immediate matte finish to the skin,- and provides a long-lasting control of the mattness of the skin.
[0465] By “provides” is meant that when a porous starch according to the present invention is added to a cosmetic product according to the present application, and said cosmetic product is applied on the skin (referred as “application on the skin” hereafter), the skin has immediately a matte finish, and the mattness of the skin is controlled over a long-lasting duration.
[0466] “Immediate matte finish” means an immediate decrease of the skin gloss of at least 10% compared to the nude skin as measured according to the “in-vitro artificial skin” protocol. By “immediate decrease” is meant a decrease which occurs at most 8 minutes after application on the skin. According to an embodiment, the immediate decrease of the skin gloss is of at least 20% compared to the nude skin, preferably of at least 25%, more preferably of at least 30%. According to an embodiment, the immediate decrease of the skin gloss occurs at most 6 minutes after application on the skin, preferably at most 4 minutes, preferably at most 3 minutes, preferably at most 2 minutes, preferably at most 1 minute, preferably at most 0.5 minute.
[0467] “Long-lasting control of the mattness of the skin” means that the increase of the gloss of the skin due to sebum secretion, as measured according to the “in-vitro artificial skin” protocol, is maintained at values equal to 50 to 90%, preferably from 60 to 80%, preferably from 65 to 75%, preferably from 66 to 73% of the increase of the gloss of nude skin, as measured according to the “in-vitro artificial skin” protocol.
[0468] The mattifying effect described hereabove for the skin may also applicable to the hair.
[0469] “In-vitro artificial skin” protocol:
[0470] The “in-vitro artficial skin” protocol to be used for characterizing the mattifying effects that the porous starch according to the present invention provides, is described thoroughly in example 5 of the present application. This protocol is carried out on the “U-Skin™” device from “Microfactory”. It consists in the real-time monitoring of the gloss of an artificial skin exposed to a controlled percolation of an artificial sebum in a manner equivalent to an average sebum secretion of 24 hours in real life conditions, followed by an overload of sebum.BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-IB
[0471] The first contact between the artificial skin equilibrated with articifial sebum and the cosmetic product allows the measurement of the immediate mattifying effect (or “immediate matte finish”). Then, a volume of 3.8 microliters of artificial sebum is pushed through the articial skin by three pulses of 1.3 microliters for 2 minutes every 22 minutes while measuring continuously the gloss at the surface of the articial skin. This simulates the average secretion of sebum over 24 hours in real life conditions. A further volume of 3.8 microliters is secreted in a similar manner, which simulates an overloard of sebum, representative of “oily skins”.
[0472] Examples
[0473] Example 1 : preparation of a porous waxy starch according to the invention
[0474] For preparing a porous waxy starch, the steps are the following:1 / Prepare a slurry of a waxy granular starch at 35% dry substance in demineralized water,2 / Increase the temperature of the slurry to 50°C (remain below starch gelatinization temperature),3 / Slowly add NaOH-5% solution to adjust pH to 6.5,4 / Add Liquozyme Supra GRV (a-amylase) at 5 pL of enzyme per gram of dry starch, or Spezyme Powerliq (a-amylase) at 0.1 pL of enzyme per gram of dry starch, and mix well,5 / Incubate at 50°C until reaching desired hydrolysis degree,6 / Deactivate the enzyme by adjusting pH to 3.5 using HCI-3% solution and allow it to react for at least 30 min with stirring while cooling to room temperature.,7 / Neutralize the slurry to pH 5.5 using NaOH-5% solution,8 / Collect the porous waxy starch using vacuum filtration and wash it twice with water (water volume is equivalent each time to the volume of filtration cake),9 / Dry the starch using a fluidized bed dryer (TG200, Retch) at 60°C with airflow of 85 to the desired moisture content (for instance 11-13%),10 / Pass through a sieve with 315-pm openings to remove impurities.1 1 / Sieve the porous waxy starch with a vibrating sieve of 50 micrometers (pm) (microns) or 100 micrometers (pm) (microns) according to desired granulometry.
[0475] Porous waxy starches according to the invention, and porous standard starches not according to the invention, i.e. porous non waxy starches, were prepared according to the previous protocol, and their characteristics are presented in table 1 for corn starch, and in table 2 for rice starch, alongside the characteristics of the native waxy starches (which are not according to the invention). Those waxy starches and porous waxy starches had an amylopectin content greater than 99 %.BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-IB
[0476] [Table 1]BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 B
[0477] [Table 2]
[0478] Example 2: Performance Evaluation of Pressed Powder formulations: Stability, Sensory Properties, and Humidity Resistance
[0479] A pressed powder make-up was prepared according to the composition of table 3, either with talc or by replacing the 35.5 wt% of talc with various granular starches according to table 4, according to the following two-phase protocol.
[0480] A first phase of the protocol consists in the preparation of a blend of all the ingredients to form a dry mixture, by the following steps:
[0481] - Premix the pigments in a mixer, for instance a coffee grinder, without excessive heating, taking care to maintain a temperature close to room temperature by alternating periods of mixing and resting. Maintaining room temperature helps prevent the formation of agglomerates. This pre-mixing step of the pigments is carried out until the pigments have developed the desired color,BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 B
[0482] - Add talc or porous starch, mica, zea mays starch, and silica, and then continue mixing, for instance in a coffee grinder, still taking care to maintain room temperature by alternating periods of mixing and resting,
[0483] - Add liquefied magnesium stearate in the blend of powder ingredients obtained in the previous step and mix in a coffee grinder at room temperature. The addition of the magnesium stearate as a liquid is mandatory to allow its good incorporation in the blend of powders,
[0484] The second phase of the protocol is the compaction of the dry mixture formed in the first phase, by following the steps:
[0485] - Load between 2.5 to 3 grams of the dry mixture at the center of a bucket reference A1024 from the French manufacturer MEPCO. This is a disc-shape bucket without frame made of galvanized steel lacquered with gold, with the following dimensions: 35.5 mm diameter, 3.5 mm height, 0.32 mm thickness,
[0486] - Compact with a manual powder press PP 52 from manufacturer TECNICOLL by applying the punch at a pressure of 40 bars during 10 to 15 seconds,
[0487] - Release the pressure and gently clean the dust around the sample,
[0488] The compact powders obtained were kept in the bucket for the tests.
[0489] Three talcs were tested (ImmerCare 11T, ImmerCare 4T, and Talc EX-15) and showed entirely equivalent results in terms of application performance in compacted form; therefore, these three references can be used interchangeably in the following examples.
[0490] [Table 3]BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 B
[0491] [Table 4]
[0492] These different pressed powder make-up formulations comprising either native standard starch, porous standard starch, native waxy starch and porous waxy starch according to the invention were tested to evaluate their:Compaction and stability at normal humidity, i.e. 50% relative humidity,Smoothness and resistance to fall,Stability of compaction under high humidity, i.e. 85% relative humidity.
[0493] Stability of compaction at normal humidity, i.e. 50% relative humidity:
[0494] Evaluations of the state of the compacted powder right after compaction (tO) and after various storage duration and temperatures were visually observed, and characterized as either “good”, which corresponds to a smooth surface sitting perfectly in place in the aluminum crucible, or “bad”, which corresponds to the presence of cracks (qualified as “cracked”) and / or the detachment and lifting of the powder (qualified as “lifted”) and / or the formation of a dome. Results of the observations made are presented in table 3 and are commented below. The figures presented in the right part of this table are the number of months during which the state of the compacted powder was stable: the higher the number of months, the more stable the compacted powder was. When the state of compaction degraded before the end of the storage duration, the degradation is noted in brackets.BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 B
[0495] [Table 3]
[0497] For corn starch:
[0498] Compared to porous standard corn, which yielded a bad compacted state at tO and for every storage condition, the porous waxy starch according to the invention formed a well compacted powder, which remained stable for every storage condition tested: the compacted powder showed no cracks, no detachment or lifting, and no dome, it remained smooth. Therefore, the porous waxy corn starch according to the invention exceeds the performances for every criterion compared to porous standard corn, demonstrating that porosity alone is not sufficient to confer the expected properties.
[0499] Furthermore, the porous waxy corn starch according to the invention maintains a good compacted state both at initial time (tO) and after 24 hours, similar to the talc and the native standard corn, but surpasses the talc and the native standard corn in long-term stability in extreme condition (4°C).BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 B
[0500] This combination of initial stability and long-term durability under various temperature conditions and notably extreme conditions, makes the porous waxy corn according to the invention a remarkable innovation compared to existing alternatives.
[0501] Smoothness and resistance to fall:
[0502] At tO, the smoothness of compacted powders prepared were evaluated, and the compacted powders were also submitted to a “fall test”.
[0503] The smoothness was evaluated by a trained set of 8 panelists. The compacted powder was not applied on the skin, instead they were evaluated directly in the bucket of compacted powder. The evaluation was made by sliding the index finger at low pressure on the compacted powder, following a straight line, with no rotation of the finger. Panelists ranked the compacted powder by a note from 0 to 10. A note of 10 corresponded to the total absence of roughness felt by the finger, as measured on a compacted powder made with waxy porous starch. A note of 0 corresponded to a strong roughness felt by the finger, as measured on a compacted powder made with Sporomex Pollen 2 SH.
[0504] Testing the fall resistance of compact powders is crucial as it simulates real-world conditions that these products frequently encounter during everyday use and transportation. Compact powders, such as those used in cosmetics, are often carried in purses, bags, or luggage, subjecting them to various physical stresses including drops, bumps, and vibrations. These conditions can potentially compromise the structural integrity of the product, leading to cracking, crumbling, or breakage. By evaluating fall resistance, manufacturers can assess the powder's ability to maintain its compacted form and overall quality despite these common stressors. This testing helps ensure that the product remains intact and functional throughout its intended lifespan, from production to the end of consumer use.
[0505] The “fall test” consisted in dropping the aluminum bucket containing the compacted powder ten times from a height of 20 cm onto a hard flat surface. The weight of powder remaining in the aluminum bucket after fall was measured, and the state of the compacted powder was also observed. The loss of compacted powder projected outside the aluminum bucket was expressed as a percentage of weight loss, with respect to the initial weight of the compacted powder, which provides a quantitative measure of its structural integrity and thus its resistance to fall. The evaluation criteria are categorized into four levels of cohesion. "Very good cohesion" is characterized by a maximum acceptable weight loss of 3.5%, indicating exceptional structural stability. "Good cohesion" allows for a slightly higher weight loss of up to 7%, still demonstrating strong structural integrity. Materials exhibiting "Bad cohesion" may experience weight loss up to 15%, suggesting significant structural weakness. Finally, "Very bad cohesion" is assigned to materials with weight loss between 15% and 100%, indicating severe structural failure. These criteria provide a clear and objective method for evaluating and comparing the cohesive properties of different materials, allowing for precise assessment of their performance and durability under various conditions.
[0506] Results are presented in table 4.BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-IB
[0507] [Table 4]
[0508] For the corn:
[0509] The compacted powder made with porous waxy corn starch replacing talc showed the lowest weight loss after fall test, and also showed the highest smoothness of all corn starches tested. The compacted powders comprising the porous waxy corn starch according to the invention is the most cohesive and mechanically resistant to shocks, while having also a very high smoothness (above 8 / 10).
[0510] For the rice:
[0511] The compacted powder made with porous rice starch replacing talc showed a smoothness equivalent to the compacted powder made with porous standard rice. The difference with this laterBR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 B compacted powder is that the porous waxy rice allowed a very significantly lowered loss of weight after fall test, indicating a very good cohesion and a very good resistance to mechanical shocks.
[0512] The combination of very good cohesion and high smoothness score in the porous waxy starch-based formulations presents a well-balanced option. The formulations comprising these porous waxy starches effectively addresses both structural integrity and sensory appeal. As a result, porous waxy starch-based formulations offer a good compromise between cohesion and sensory attributes. By achieving this balance, porous waxy starch-based formulations show improved overall performance compared to the other samples, providing a solution that performs well in terms of both stability and user experience.
[0513] Stability of compaction under high humidity:
[0514] Testing compacted powders in high-humidity environments is essential as it simulates real- world conditions, particularly those found in bathrooms where many cosmetic and personal care products are stored and used. This testing is critical because it addresses the moisture sensitivity of powder formulations, many of which contain hygroscopic materials that readily absorb atmospheric moisture. High humidity can significantly impact the structural integrity of compacted powders, potentially weakening inter-particle bonds and leading to product degradation such as cracking or crumbling. Moreover, increased moisture levels can accelerate chemical reactions within the powder, potentially affecting the product's stability, efficacy, and safety over time. By replicating these challenging conditions, manufacturers can better understand and improve their products' performance and longevity in everyday use scenarios.
[0515] For each compacted powder formula, 12 samples were kept at 30°C and at 85 % relative humidity during 1 month. Each week, the samples were observed and submitted to the fall test. Results are presented in table 5. The evaluation criteria (four levels of cohesion) are those described hereinbefore.BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 B
[0516] [Table 5]
[0517] Based on the provided data and evaluation criteria, the porous waxy corn according to the invention demonstrates superior performance compared to the other samples (talc, native standard corn and porous standard corn) in terms of cohesion and stability under challenging storage conditions. Over the course of 4 weeks at 85% relative humidity and 30°C, the porous waxy corn maintains its "Good" compacted state with a smooth surface, showing no signs of degradation. More importantly, the porous waxy corn’s weight loss after the fall test remains consistently within the "Very good cohesion" category (below 3.5%) throughout the entire testing period, with values ranging from 0.56% at tO to as low as 0.15% in weeks 2 and 4. This performance surpasses even that of the talc, which also maintains good cohesion but with slightly higher weight loss percentages. In stark contrast, native standard corn and porous standard corn exhibit significant degradation and fall into the "Bad cohesion" and "Very bad cohesion" categories respectively, with native standard corn’s weight loss increasing dramatically after the first week and porous standard corn consistently showing extremely high weight loss percentages. These results clearly indicate that the porous waxy corn offers the best resistance to environmental stress and maintains exceptional structural integrity over time, making it the most promising option among the tested samples.
[0518] In conclusion, the compact powder make-up formulations comprising porous waxy starch demonstrate superior performance across all key evaluated parameters compared to prior art. These formulations exhibit exceptional stability of compaction under both normal (50% relative humidity)BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-IB and challenging high-humidity conditions (4°C and 85% relative humidity), maintaining its structural integrity over extended periods. Furthermore, the formulations showcase improved smoothness and significantly enhanced resistance to fall, ensuring product consistency and user satisfaction. These properties translate to improved product longevity and reliability in real-world usage scenarios, such as in bathroom environments and daily transports.
[0519] Hence, and importantly, compositions according to the invention achieve an ideal balance between mechanical resistance, environmental stability, and sensory properties. By optimizing this triad of characteristics, these compositions offer a compelling solution that does not compromise on any single aspect. The smooth texture and pleasant sensory attributes are maintained without sacrificing stability of compaction and resistance to fall.
[0520] Example 3: sensorial profile of porous waxy corn starch as a loose powder
[0521] The sensorial profile of several starches as loose powder was evaluated by a descriptive test by 8 panelists. Cushion effect, slippery, softness, homogenous and smoothness have been evaluated, based on the criteria hereinafter described.Results are reported in Table 6 hereinafter.BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 B
[0522] [Table 6]
[0523] Porous waxy corn starch demonstrates excellent overall performance across the evaluated sensory properties, presenting a well-balanced profile for a loose powder cosmetic product. It shows superior or comparable results to the talc in most categories, while consistently outperforming porous standard corn and native standard corn. Porous waxy corn excels particularly in the cushion effect, where it scores the highest (8.00), surpassing all other samples including the talc. In the categories of slippery, softness, and smoothness, porous waxy starch achieves scores that are either very close to or slightly lower than talc's, but still notably higher than porous standard corn and native standard corn Hence, porous waxy corn presents an optimal balance of desirable sensory characteristics, making it a strong contender in the loose powder cosmetic market, with performance that matches or exceeds the current standards set by the talc and clearly surpasses porous standard corn and native standard corn.
[0524] Example 4: measurement of softness when applied on skin
[0525] The impact of a powder foundation, comprising a waxy porous starch according to the invention, on the softness of the skin was evaluated on synthetic skin using a probe sensitive to surface roughness named “Touchy finger” from Tactinnov. This probe is placed around the tip of a finger, leaving the pulp of the finger free. The probe has sensors which measure the vibration between the skin of the finger and the skin sample, and give a level of average vibration noted “La” expressed in dB. For this evaluation, a powder foundation according to table 1 was used for application on synthetic skin samples, for 2 different sensorial bulking agents:
[0526] - the benchmark, MU-060-000: a powder foundation according to table 7 containing 50% Talc as the sensorial bulkign agent,BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-IB
[0527] - the sample with waxy porous starch, MU-060-001 : a powder foundation according to table 7 containing 50% of waxy porous starch as the sensorial bulking agent.
[0528] The protocol of measurement was:- Application technique: Manual with latex finger cot. - Product applied: 45 mg- Application medium: BIODY Plate (11X-gel) synthetic skin- Room temperature: 20°C +- 3°C- Room humidity: 50% +- 5%- Number of measurements: 8 measurements, and between each measurement, a blank test was performed to account for the initial softness of the bare skin.
[0529] When the measurement is low, it means that the friction is minimal and therefore the softness is significant. A difference is significant when there is a 0.5 db difference between the bare skin value and the skin value with the sample.
[0530] [Table 7] powder foundation
[0531] The results were analysed by substracting the average La value after application of the powder foundation from the average La value before application (La_before - La_after). Those results were interpreted according to the following scale:- La variation lower than -0.5: the softness of the skin is decreased,BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 B- La variation from -0.5 to 0.5: there is no impact of the softness of the skin,- La variation higher than 0.5: the softness of the skin is increased.
[0532] [Table 8]0533] The waxy porous starch provided a significant increase in softness compared to talc, around 4.5 times higher than talc.
[0534] Example 5: mattifyinq property on artificial skin
[0535] The ability of the waxy porous starch to provide a matte finish on the skin through its application in a make-up formulation was evaluated by an in-vitro test on artificial skin. The test was performed on the “U-Skin™” apparatus from “Microfactory”, which is equipped with a surface mimicking human skin (“artificial skin” hereafter). This apparatus allows to mimick the secretion of sebum by the skin by releasing controlled quantities of artificial sebum over time, while simultaneously measuring the gloss at the surface of the artificial skin. The artificial sebum is a mixture of fatty compounds: Caprylic / Capric / Succinic Triglyceride, Simmondsia chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil and Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil Unsaponifiable. The artificial sebum is injected by short pulses from beneath the artificial skin.
[0536] The operating conditions were the following, and are summarized in table 9:
[0537] - equipement and samples were stabilized at 22°C + / -2°C, 50% + / -5% of relative humidity,
[0538] - secretions of artificial sebum were then released at regular intervals during the three stages of the analysis:
[0539] - stage 1 “First contact”: the measurement cell was prepared: the reservoir beneath the artificial skin was filled with artificial sebum, which is enough to slightly touch the bottom of the artificial skin, therefore allowing the equilibration of the skin with the artificial sebum for a duration of 3.5 minutes; 5 mg of the “powder foundation” of table 7 of example 4 were applied evenly on the artificial skin at 3.5 minutes, and the gloss was measured at 4 min : this was the “immediate gloss”,
[0540] - stage 2 “24h average secretion”: the artificial sebum from the reservoir was injected through the artificial skin in three pulses of 1 .3 pL of 2 minutes duration each at tO+4.5, tO+26.5 and tO+48.5 minutes, which mimicked the real-life average secretion of sebum over 24hours,
[0541] - stage 3 “sebum overload”: three more pulses of 1 .3 pL of 2 minutes duration of artificial sebum were performed at t0+70.5, tO+92.5 and t0+114.5 minutes, to mimick an overload of sebum.BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-IB
[0542] The preceding operating procedure constitutes the “in-vitro artifical skin” protocol useful for determining the “immediate mattifying effect” and the “long-lasting control mattness effect” according to the present invention.
[0543] Following the previous test conditions, the matifying property of the waxy porous starch according to the invention was evaluated and compared to the one of talc which is a known mattifying agent. Results are presented in table 10.
[0544] [Table 9]0545] [Table 10]0546] The waxy porous starch provided an immediate mattifying effect and a long-lasting control of skin mattness, with a tendency to be slightly better than talc. The immediate effect was demonstrated by the 34% decrease of the gloss of the skin treated with the powder foundation comprising waxy porous starch compared to the nude skin, which occurred in in less than 0.5 minutes (between the time of application at 3.5 minutes and the measurement at 4 minutes). The long-lasting effect wasBR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 B demonstrated by the maintaining of a skin gloss value below the intial value of the skin gloss of the nude skin (0.7) for the duration of the pulses 1 to 3 (from 0 to 70.0 min), which is equivalent to a 24h real-life duration, and for the duration of pulses 4 to 6 (from 70.5 to 136 min), which is equivalent to a subsequent overload of secretion of sebum.
[0547] Further exploitation of the results is presented in table 11 . It consisted in the calculation of the difference of the variation in gloss over the stage 2 of the analysis (which is equivalent to a 24h in- vivo secretion of sebum), noted « 24h AG variation” according to the formula:
[0548] 24h AG variation = AG end pulse #3 - AG end pulse #1
[0549] With the differences in gloss calculated as:AG end pulse #1 = Gloss at end of phase 1 - Gloss at end of phase B AG end pulse #3 = Gloss at end of phase 3 - Gloss at end of phase B
[0550] [Table 1 1]0551] Values of “24h AG variation” from -0.01 to 0.01 corresponds to a “gloss control” state: the increase of the gloss of the skin is maintained under control, that is to say that this increase is lower than the increase of the nude skin. When the “24h AG variation” is higher than 0.01 , this corresponds to a notable increase of the gloss.
[0552] For the skin powdered with a foundation comprising the waxy porous starch according to the invention, the 24h AG variation is only 0.002, which means that the waxy porous starch allowed to keep the increase of gloss under control (with an increase from 27 to 34% lower than the increase of the untreated skin). This 24h AG variation obtained with the waxy porous starch of the invention is 5 times lower than the 24h AG variation obtained with talc: the waxy porous starch is much more efficient than talc at keeping the increase of gloss under control.
Claims
1. BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 BClaims
1. Composition for cosmetic products, comprising at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch.
2. The composition according to claim 1 , wherein the starch is selected among the group consisting of tapioca starch, corn starch, pea starch, potato starch, wheat starch, mung bean starch, rice starch, sweet potato starch, millet starch, sago starch, sorghum starch, quinoa starch, arrowroot starch, amaranth starch, lotus root starch and buckwheat starch, and is preferably selected among maize starch and rice starch, and mixtures thereof.
3. The composition according to anyone of claims 1 or 2, wherein the degree of hydrolysis of said at least one porous starch is comprised between 5 and 35%, preferably between 8 and 25%, preferably between 10 and 20%, preferably between 1 1 and 20%, preferably 11 and 16%.
4. The composition according to anyone of claims 1 to 3, wherein the characteristic diameters d[4;3], d(10), d(50) and d(90), measured by laser diffraction granulometry, of said at least one porous starch are such that:The d[4;3] is less than or equal to 30 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than or equal to 25 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than or equal to 20 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than or equal to 19 micrometers (pm) (microns),The diameter at 10th percentiles d(10) is of less than or equal to 12 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than or equal to 10,5 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than or equal to 9,5 micrometers (pm) (microns),The diameter at 50th percentiles d(50) is of less than or equal to 18 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than or equal to 17,5 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than or equal to 17 micrometers (pm) (microns),The diameter at 90th percentiles d(90) is of less than or equal to 45 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than or equal to 42 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably of less than or equal to 40 micrometers (pm) (microns).
5. Cosmetic product comprising the composition for cosmetic products as described in any of claims 1 to 4.
6. Cosmetic product according to claim 5, consisting essentially of the composition as described in claims 1 to 5.
7. The cosmetic product according to claim 6, further comprising other ingredients chosen from fillers, dry binders, coloring agents, sensorial agents, flow agents, fragrances, cosmetic active ingredients, and mixture thereof.
8. Cosmetic product consisting of the composition as described in claims 1 to 5, and at least one ingredient chosen from fillers, dry binders, coloring agents, sensorial agents, flow agents, fragrances, cosmetic active ingredients and mixtures thereof.BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-1 B
9. The cosmetic product according to any claims 6 to 8, wherein said cosmetic product comprises from 0.1 to 99.9% of a composition for cosmetic products as described in any of claims 1 to 5, preferably between 50 and 99.9%, preferably between 85 and 99.9%, relative to the total weight of said cosmetic product.
10. The cosmetic product according to any of claims 6 to 9, wherein said cosmetic product is chosen from cleansing products, hair care products, oral care products, sun care products, skin care products, make-up products, feminine care products, nail care products, shaving and hair removal products, men’s grooming products, bath and shower products, deodorants and antiperspirants, eye care products and / or hygiene products.
11. The cosmetic product according to any claims 6 to 10, wherein said cosmetic product is a solid cosmetic product.
12. The cosmetic product according to claim 11 , wherein the solid cosmetic product is chosen from a compact powder, a free-flowing powder, a semi free-flowing powder and a granulated powder.
13. A corn porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80% relative to the total weight of the porous starch, wherein said corn porous starch has: an specific surface area, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with the BJH model, of more than 0.4 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.5 m2 / g; an average visible pore diameter comprised between 0.05 and 4 micrometers (pm), preferably between 0.05 and 2 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 0.2 and 1 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 0.2 and 0.6 micrometers (pm) (microns); an average pore volume as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model comprised between 2.0 and 8.0 mm3 / g, preferably between 2.5 and 4.5 mm3 / g; a water content comprised between 6% and 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the porous starch; a degree of hydrolysis comprised between 5% and 35%; a volumetric particle size distribution, measured by laser diffraction granulometry, the characteristic diameters d[4;3], d(10), d(50) and d(90) of which are such that:The d[4;3] is comprised between 8 and 25 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 10 and 20, or preferably between 13 and 19 micrometers (pm) (microns),The diameter at 10th percentiles d(10) is comprised between 5 and 11 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 7 and 1 1 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 8 and 10 micrometers (pm) (microns),The diameter at 50th percentiles d(50) is comprised between 10 and 20 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 12 and 18 micrometers (pm) (microns), or preferably between 13 and 17 micrometers (pm) (microns),BR926 - AMIDON WAXY POREUX / POUDRE COMPACTEE 2-IBThe diameter at 90th percentiles d(90) is comprised between 20 and 45 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 19 and 45 micrometers (pm) (microns), preferably between 21 and 40micrometers (pm) (microns). an elastic recovery of less than 16% when a compression of 10 kN is applied, and less than 15% when a compression of 5 kN is applied.
14. Use of at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, preferentially greater than 85%, preferably greater than 90%, preferably greater than 95%, preferably greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, as a sensory bulking agent.
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