Method for dyeing keratin fibers, wherein at least one dyeing compound, a chitosan, and an oil are applied to the fibers

Abstract

The invention relates to a method for dyeing keratin fibers, in particular human hair, wherein (I) at least one dyeing compound from the group of pigments and direct dyes, (II) at least one chitosan and / or chitosan derivative, and (III) at least one fatty component from the group consisting of vegetable oils, ester oils, and hydrocarbons are applied to the keratin fibers either simultaneously or one after the other.

Description

[0001] Henkel AG & Co. KGaA

[0002] 2024P00201WO

[0003] Method for dyeing keratinous fibers, in which at least one coloring compound, a chitosan and an oil are applied to the fibers.

[0004] The subject matter of the present application is a process for dyeing keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, in which at least one coloring compound from the group consisting of pigments and direct dyes, at least one chitosan and / or chitosan derivative and at least one fatty component from the group consisting of vegetable oils, ester oils and hydrocarbons are applied to the keratinous fibers either simultaneously or successively.

[0005] Another subject matter of the present application is a hair dyeing kit, which comprises a dyeing agent and a post-treatment agent, packaged separately in two different containers. The dyeing agent contains at least one coloring compound from the group consisting of pigments and direct dyes, and at least one chitosan and / or chitosan derivative. The post-treatment agent contains at least one fatty component from the group consisting of vegetable oils, ester oils, and hydrocarbons.

[0006] Altering the shape and color of keratin fibers, especially human hair, is an important area of ​​modern cosmetics. Depending on the desired color, professionals are familiar with various dyeing systems for changing hair color. For permanent, intense colorations with good colorfastness and gray coverage, oxidation dyes are typically used. These dyes contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components and coupler components, which react with oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide to form the actual dyes. Oxidation dyes are characterized by very long-lasting color results.

[0007] When using direct dyes, pre-formed pigments diffuse from the dye into the hair fiber. Compared to oxidative hair coloring, dyes produced with direct dyes are less durable and wash out more quickly. Dyes made with direct dyes typically remain on the hair for between 5 and 20 washes.

[0008] The use of color pigments is well-known for temporary color changes to hair and / or skin. Color pigments are generally understood to be insoluble, coloring substances. These are present in the coloring formulation in the form of small particles and are simply deposited on the surface of the hair. Therefore, they can usually be removed completely after a few washes with surfactant-containing cleansers. Various products of this type are available on the market under the name "hair mascara."

[0009] Dyeing with pigments offers several significant advantages. Since the pigments adhere only to the keratin material, particularly the hair fibers, unwanted colors can be removed quickly, easily, and completely, allowing users to return to their original hair color immediately and effortlessly. This makes the dyeing process especially attractive for consumers who don't want to regularly dye their hair.

[0010] Despite these many advantages, the pigment-based dyeing system still has some disadvantages, stemming from the limited penetration depth of the pigments into the keratinous material. Since the pigments do not diffuse into the keratin fiber but merely deposit on the outer surface of the fiber as a coating or film, the wash fastness of dyes produced with this system still needs improvement. Various studies have attempted to bind the pigment(s) more permanently to the hair surface using film-forming materials, mostly polymers.

[0011] For example, German patent DE 19847883 A1 deals with achieving pigment-based colorations using dyes containing at least one chitosan and one pigment. Combining the pigments with chitosan is intended to improve the abrasion resistance of the colorations. The major advantage of chitosan as a film-forming material lies in the fact that it is based on biopolymers and therefore possesses improved environmental compatibility and biodegradability. Since many users are showing increasing interest in products with sustainable or renewable raw materials, the use of biopolymers is increasingly coming into focus. Nevertheless, the colorations obtained with pigment and chitosan still have room for improvement with regard to the achievable color intensity, rub fastness, gloss, and feel.

[0012] The objective of this application was therefore to discover a coloring process based on pigments and / or direct dyes that achieves intense coloration with enhanced shine and improved hair feel. The coloring process should utilize biopolymers, and the keratin fibers or hair colored with the product should not feel coated, dull, rough, or greasy. For sustainability reasons, the use of silicone compounds should be avoided.

[0013] It has now been shown that these tasks can be solved if keratinous fibers or hair are colored using a process in which at least one coloring compound from the group of pigments and direct dyes (I), at least one chitosan and / or chitosan derivative (II) and at least one fatty component (III) from the group of vegetable oils, ester oils and hydrocarbons are applied either simultaneously or successively to the keratin fibers.

[0014] A first subject matter of the present application is a process for dyeing keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, in which

[0015] (I) at least one colouring compound from the group consisting of pigments and direct dyes, and

[0016] (II) at least one chitosan and / or chitosan derivative, and

[0017] (III) at least one fatty component from the group consisting of vegetable oils, ester oils and hydrocarbons, is applied to the keratinous fibers either simultaneously or successively.

[0018] Hair strands colored using the inventive method were characterized by very high color intensity combined with improved hair feel and shine. In particular, when hair strands were colored with a dye containing a coloring compound (I) and chitosan (II) in a leave-on process and subsequently treated with the fatty component(s) (III), the color intensity and shine were significantly enhanced.

[0019] Keratinous fibers

[0020] Keratinous fibers include hair, wool, and fur. Human hair is particularly often considered a keratinous fiber.

[0021] dyeing process

[0022] The term "coloring process" is used in this invention to describe the coloring of keratin fibers, particularly hair, by the use of pigments and / or direct dyes. The process employs a coloring agent, which is alternatively also referred to as a coloring agent or dye (F). During coloring, the coloring compounds are deposited in a homogeneous, uniform, and smooth film on the surface of the keratin fibers. This film is formed by the chitosans. (I)

[0023] In the process according to the invention, at least one color-imparting compound (I) from the group consisting of pigments and direct dyes is applied to the keratinous fibers.

[0024] For the purposes of this invention, pigments are understood to be coloring compounds which have a solubility in water at 25 °C of less than 0.5 g / L, preferably less than 0.1 g / L, and even more preferably less than 0.05 g / L. The water solubility can be determined, for example, by the method described below: 0.5 g of the pigment is weighed into a beaker. A magnetic stir bar is added. Then one liter of distilled water is added. This mixture is heated to 25 °C for one hour while stirring on a magnetic stirrer. If undissolved components of the pigment are still visible in the mixture after this period, the solubility of the pigment is below 0.5 g / L. If the pigment-water mixture cannot be visually assessed due to the high intensity of the pigment, which may be finely dispersed, the mixture is filtered.If a proportion of undissolved pigments remains on the filter paper, the solubility of the pigment is below 0.5 g / L.

[0025] In a particularly well-suited embodiment, at least one pigment is used in the process according to the invention. Suitable color pigments can be of inorganic and / or organic origin. Pigments with a specific shape and metallic pigments are also particularly well-suited for use in the process according to the invention.

[0026] In a particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that at least one pigment (I) from the group consisting of inorganic pigments, organic pigments, pigments based on a lamellar substrate platelet, pigments based on a lenticular substrate platelet and vacuum metallized pigments is applied to the keratinous fibers.

[0027] Preferred inorganic color pigments are selected from synthetic or natural sources. Naturally derived inorganic color pigments can be produced, for example, from chalk, ochre, umber, green earth, burnt sienna, or graphite. Other inorganic color pigments that can be used include black pigments such as iron oxide black, colored pigments such as ultramarine or iron oxide red, as well as fluorescent or phosphorescent pigments.

[0028] Particularly suitable are colored metal oxides, hydroxides and oxide hydrates, mixed-phase pigments, sulfur-containing silicates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, chromates and / or molybdates. Especially preferred color pigments are black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and brown iron oxide (CI 77491), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarine (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, CI 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (CI 77289), iron blue (ferric ferrocyanide, CI 77510) and / or carmine (cochineal).

[0029] Colored pearlescent pigments are also particularly preferred according to the invention. These are typically mica- and / or micaceous and can be coated with one or more metal oxides. Mica belongs to the layered silicates. The most important representatives of these silicates are muscovite, phlogopite, paragonite, biotite, lepidolite, and margarite. To produce the pearlescent pigments in combination with metal oxides, the mica, predominantly muscovite or phlogopite, is coated with a metal oxide.

[0030] As an alternative to natural mica, synthetic mica coated with one or more metal oxides can also be used as a pearlescent pigment. Particularly favored pearlescent pigments are based on natural or synthetic mica and coated with one or more of the aforementioned metal oxides. The color of the respective pigments can be varied by changing the thickness of the metal oxide layer(s).

[0031] In a further preferred embodiment, a coloring agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one inorganic pigment, which is preferably selected from the group consisting of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments and / or colored pigments based on mica or micaceous oxide, which are coated with at least one metal oxide and / or one metal oxychloride.

[0032] In a further preferred embodiment, a coloring agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one pigment selected from mica- or micaceous-based pigments coated with one or more metal oxides from the group consisting of titanium dioxide (CI 77891), black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and / or brown iron oxide (CI 77491, CI 77499), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarine (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, CI 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (CI 77289), chromium oxide (CI 77288) and / or iron blue (ferric ferrocyanide, CI 77510).

[0033] Examples of particularly suitable color pigments are available commercially under the trade names Rona®, Colorona®, Xirona®, Dichrona® and Timiron® from Merck, Ariabel® and Unipure® from Sensient, Prestige® from Eckart Cosmetic Colors and Sunshine® from Sunstar.

[0034] Ganz besonders bevorzugte Farbpigmente mit der Handelsbezeichnung Colorona® sind beispielsweise:

[0035] Colorona Copper, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)

[0036] Colorona Passion Orange, Merck, Mica, CI 77491 (Iron Oxides), Alumina

[0037] Colorona Patina Silver, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE) Colorona RY, Merck, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), MICA, CI 75470 (CARMINE)

[0038] Colorona Oriental Beige, Merck, MICA, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Dark Blue, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, FERRIC FERROCYANIDE

[0039] Colorona Chameleon, Merck, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), MICA Colorona Aborigine Amber, Merck, MICA, Cl 77499 (IRON OXIDES), Cl 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE)

[0040] Colorona Blackstar Blue, Merck, Cl 77499 (IRON OXIDES), MICA

[0041] Colorona Patagonian Purple, Merck, MICA, Cl 77491 (IRON OXIDES), Cl 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), Cl 77510 (FERRIC FERROCYANIDE)

[0042] Colorona Red Brown, Merck, MICA, Cl 77491 (IRON OXIDES), Cl 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE)

[0043] Colorona Russet, Merck, Cl 77491 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), MICA, Cl 77891 (IRON OXIDES)

[0044] Colorona Imperial Red, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE (Cl 77891), D&C RED NO. 30 (Cl 73360)

[0045] Colorona Majestic Green, Merck, Cl 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), MICA, Cl 77288 (CHROMIUM OXIDE GREENS)

[0046] Colorona Light Blue, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE (Cl 77891), FERRIC FERROCYANIDE (Cl 77510)

[0047] Colorona Red Gold, Merck, MICA, Cl 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), Cl 77491 (IRON OXIDES)

[0048] Colorona Gold Plus MP 25, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE (Cl 77891), IRON OXIDES (Cl 77491)

[0049] Colorona Carmine Red, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, CARMINE

[0050] Colorona Blackstar Green, Merck, MICA, Cl 77499 (IRON OXIDES)

[0051] Colorona Bordeaux, Merck, MICA, Cl 77491 (IRON OXIDES)

[0052] Colorona Bronze, Merck, MICA, Cl 77491 (IRON OXIDES)

[0053] Colorona Bronze Fine, Merck, MICA, Cl 77491 (IRON OXIDES)

[0054] Colorona Fine Gold MP 20, Merck, MICA, Cl 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), Cl 77491 (IRON OXIDES)

[0055] Colorona Sienna Fine, Merck, Cl 77491 (IRON OXIDES), MICA

[0056] Colorona Sienna, Merck, MICA, Cl 77491 (IRON OXIDES)

[0057] Colorona Precious Gold, Merck, Mica, Cl 77891 (Titanium dioxide), Silica, Cl 77491 (Iron oxides), Tin oxide

[0058] Colorona Sun Gold Sparkle MP 29, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, IRON OXIDES, MICA, Cl 77891 , Cl 77491 (EU)

[0059] Colorona Mica Black, Merck, Cl 77499 (Iron oxides), Mica, Cl 77891 (Titanium dioxide)

[0060] Colorona Bright Gold, Merck, Mica, Cl 77891 (Titanium dioxide), Cl 77491 (Iron oxides)

[0061] Colorona Blackstar Gold, Merck, MICA, Cl 77499 (IRON OXIDES)

[0062] Other particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Xirona® include, for example:

[0063] Xirona Golden Sky, Merck, Silica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Tin Oxide

[0064] Xirona Caribbean Blue, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Silica, Tin Oxide

[0065] Xirona Kiwi Rose, Merck, Silica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Tin Oxide

[0066] Xirona Magie Mauve, Merck, Silica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Tin Oxide. Additionally, particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Unipure® are included, for example:

[0067] Unipure Red LC 381 EM, Sensient CI 77491 (Iron Oxides), Silica

[0068] Unipure Black LC 989 EM, Sensient, CI 77499 (Iron Oxides), Silica

[0069] Unipure Yellow LC 182 EM, Sensient, CI 77492 (Iron Oxides), Silica

[0070] In a further embodiment, the dyes according to the invention can also contain one or more organic pigments (I).

[0071] The organic pigments according to the invention are correspondingly insoluble organic dyes or color lakes, which may be selected, for example, from the group of nitroso, nitro-azo, xanthene, anthraquinone, isoindolinone, isoindolin, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyorrole, indigo, thioindido, dioxazine, and / or triarylmethane compounds.

[0072] Particularly suitable organic pigments include, for example, carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, and red pigments with the Color Index Numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15630, CI 15800, CI 15850, CI 15865, CI 15880, CI 17200, CI 26100, CI 45380, CI 45410, CI 58000, CI 73360, CI 73915 and / or CI 75470.

[0073] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a coloring agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one organic pigment, preferably selected from the group consisting of carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments with the color index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the color index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the color index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, and orange pigments with the color index numbers CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the color index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15630, CI 15800, CI 15850, CI 15865, CI 15880, CI 17200, CI 26100, CI 45380, CI 45410, CI 58000, CI 73360, CI 73915 and / or CI 75470.

[0074] The organic pigment can also be a paint lake. For the purposes of this invention, the term "paint lake" refers to particles comprising a layer of absorbed dyes, wherein the particle-dye unit is insoluble under the aforementioned conditions. These particles can be, for example, inorganic substrates such as aluminum, silica, calcium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate, or even aluminum itself.

[0075] For example, alizarin lacquer can be used as a colored lacquer.

[0076] Due to their excellent light and temperature resistance, the use of the aforementioned pigments in the dye of the process according to the invention is particularly preferred. Furthermore, it is preferred if the pigments used have a specific particle size. Therefore, according to the invention, it is advantageous if the at least one pigment has a mean particle size D50 of 1.0 to 50 pm, preferably of 5.0 to 45 pm, more preferably of 10 to 40 pm, and particularly of 14 to 30 pm. The mean particle size D50 can be determined, for example, using dynamic light scattering (DLS).

[0077] Pigments with a specific shape can also be used to stain keratin fibers. For example, a pigment based on a lamellar and / or lenticular substrate platelet can be used. Furthermore, staining based on a substrate platelet containing a vacuum-metallized pigment is also possible.

[0078] In a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that at least one pigment is used which is selected from the group of pigments based on a lamellar substrate platelet, pigments based on a lenticular substrate platelet and vacuum metallized pigments.

[0079] The substrate platelets of this type have an average thickness of at most 50 nm, preferably less than 30 nm, particularly preferably at most 25 nm, for example at most 20 nm. The average thickness of the substrate platelets is at least 1 nm, preferably at least 2.5 nm, particularly preferably at least 5 nm, for example at least 10 nm. Preferred thickness ranges for the substrate platelets are 2.5 to 50 nm, 5 to 50 nm, 10 to 50 nm; 2.5 to 30 nm, 5 to 30 nm, 10 to 30 nm; 2.5 to 25 nm, 5 to 25 nm, 10 to 25 nm; 2.5 to 20 nm, 5 to 20 nm, and 10 to 20 nm. Preferably, each substrate platelet has as uniform a thickness as possible. Due to the small thickness of the substrate platelets, the pigment exhibits particularly high opacity.

[0080] The substrate platelets are preferably monolithic. In this context, monolithic means consisting of a single, closed unit without fractures, layering, or inclusions, although structural changes may occur within the substrate platelets. The substrate platelets are preferably homogeneous, meaning that no concentration gradient exists within the platelets. In particular, the substrate platelets are not layered and do not contain any particles or other distributed particles.

[0081] The size of the substrate platelet can be tailored to the specific application, particularly the desired effect on the keratinous material. Typically, the substrate platelets have a mean maximum diameter of approximately 2 to 200 pm, especially approximately 5 to 100 pm.

[0082] In a preferred embodiment, the aspect ratio, expressed as the ratio of the mean size to the mean thickness, is at least 80, preferably at least 200, more preferably at least 500, and particularly preferably more than 750. The mean size of the uncoated substrate platelets is defined as the d50 value of the uncoated substrate platelets. Unless otherwise specified, the d50 value was determined using a Sympatec Heios instrument with Quixel wet dispersion. For sample preparation, the sample to be tested was pre-dispersed in isopropanol for 3 minutes.

[0083] The substrate plates can be made from any material that can be formed into platelet form.

[0084] They can be of natural origin or synthetically produced. Materials from which the substrate plates can be constructed include, for example, metals and metal alloys, metal oxides, preferably aluminum oxide, inorganic compounds and minerals such as mica and (semi-)precious stones, as well as plastics. Preferably, the substrate plates are composed of metal (alloys).

[0085] Any metal suitable for metallic luster pigments can be used. Such metals include iron and steel, as well as all air- and water-resistant (semi-)metals such as platinum, zinc, chromium, molybdenum, and silicon, and their alloys such as aluminum bronzes and brass. Preferred metals are aluminum, copper, silver, and gold. Preferred substrate platelets are aluminum and brass platelets, with aluminum platelets being particularly preferred.

[0086] Lamellar substrate platelets are characterized by an irregularly structured edge and are also referred to as "cornflakes" due to their appearance.

[0087] Due to their irregular structure, pigments based on lamellar substrate platelets produce a high proportion of scattered light. Furthermore, these pigments do not completely mask the existing color of a keratinous material, and effects similar to natural graying can be achieved.

[0088] Lenticular (lens-shaped) substrate platelets have a generally regular, rounded edge and are also referred to as "silver dollars" due to their appearance. Because of their regular structure, pigments based on lenticular substrate platelets have a high proportion of reflected light.

[0089] Vacuum metallized pigments (VMPs) can be obtained, for example, by releasing metals, metal alloys, or metal oxides from appropriately coated films. They are characterized by a particularly thin substrate platelet, ranging from 5 to 50 nm, and by a particularly smooth surface with increased reflectivity. Substrate platelets comprising a vacuum metallized pigment are also referred to as VMP substrate platelets within the scope of this application. Aluminum VMP substrate platelets, for example, can be obtained by releasing aluminum from metallized films.

[0090] The substrate plates made of metal or metal alloy can be passivated, for example by anodizing (oxide layer) or chromating.

[0091] Uncoated lamellar, lenticular and / or VPM substrate platelets, especially those made of metal or metal alloy, reflect the incident light to a high degree and produce a light-dark flop. These have proven particularly advantageous for use in dyes.

[0092] Suitable pigments based on a lamellar substrate platelet include, for example, the VISIONAIRE series pigments from Eckart.

[0093] Pigments based on a lenticular substrate platelet are available, for example, under the name Alegrace® Gorgeous from the company Schlenk Metallic Pigments GmbH.

[0094] Pigments based on a substrate platelet comprising a vacuum metallized pigment are available, for example, under the name Alegrace® Marvelous or Alegrace® Aurous from Schlenk Metallic Pigments GmbH.

[0095] Instead of or in addition to the pigment(s), one or more direct dyes can also be used in the process according to the invention. Direct dyes are dyes that adhere directly to the hair and do not require an oxidative process to develop the color. Direct dyes are typically nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones, triarylmethane dyes, or indophenols.

[0096] The direct-acting dyes according to the present invention have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at 25 °C of more than 0.5 g / L and are therefore not to be considered pigments. Preferably, the direct-acting dyes according to the present invention have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at 25 °C of more than 1.0 g / L.

[0097] Direct-drawing dyes can be divided into anionic, cationic, and nonionic direct-drawing dyes.

[0098] Kationische direktziehende Farbstoffe sind beispielsweise Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, HC Blue 16, Basic Violet 2 und Basic Violet 14, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 16, Basic Blue 347 (Cationic Blue 347 / Dystar), HC Blue No. 16, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 , Basic Red 51 Basic Red 76.

[0099] Examples of nonionic direct-drawing dyes include nonionic nitro and quinone dyes and neutral azo dyes. Examples of nonionic direct-drawing dyes are those known by their international names.Handelsnamen HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1 , Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1 , HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 11 , HC Red 13, HC Red BN, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11 , HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1 , Disperse Violet 1 , Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9 bekannten Verbindungen, sowie 1 ,4-Diamino-2-nitrobenzol, 2-Amino-4-nitrophenol, 1 ,4-Bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)- amino-2-nitrobenzol, 3-Nitro-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)-aminophenol, 2-(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino-4,6-dinitro- phenol, 4-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-3-nitro-1 -methylbenzol, 1-Amino-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino-5- chlor-2-nitrobenzol, 4-Amino-3-nitrophenol, 1-(2'-Ureidoethyl)amino-4-nitrobenzol, 2-[(4-Amino-2- nitrophenyl)amino]-benzoesäure, 6-Nitro-1 ,2,3,4-tetrahydrochinoxalin, 2-Hydroxy-1 ,4-naphtho- chinon, Pikraminsäure und deren Salze, 2-Amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-Ethylamino-3-nitro- benzoesäure und 2-Chlor-6-ethylamino-4-nitrophenol.

[0100] Anionic direct-drawing dyes are also known as acid dyes. Acid dyes are defined as direct-drawing dyes that possess at least one carboxylic acid group (-COOH) and / or one sulfonic acid group (-SO3H). Depending on the pH, the rheumenized forms (-COOH, -SO3H) of the carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid groups exist in equilibrium with their deprotonated forms (-COO-, -SOs). The proportion of rheumenized forms increases with decreasing pH. When direct-drawing dyes are used in the form of their salts, the carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid groups exist in deprotonated form and are neutralized with corresponding stoichiometric equivalents of cations to maintain electroneutrality. Acid dyes according to the invention can also be used in the form of their sodium salts and / or their potassium salts.

[0101] The acid dyes according to the present invention have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at 25 °C of more than 0.5 g / L and are therefore not to be considered pigments. Preferably, the acid dyes according to the present invention have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at 25 °C of more than 1.0 g / L.

[0102] The alkaline earth salts (such as calcium and magnesium salts) and aluminum salts of acid dyes often have lower solubility than the corresponding alkali salts. If the solubility of these salts in water is below 0.5 g / L, preferably less than 0.1 g / L, and even more preferably less than 0.05 g / L (each at 25 °C, 760 mmHg), they do not fall under the definition of a direct-drawing dye.

[0103] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that at least one color-imparting compound (I) from the group of direct dyes, particularly preferably from the group of anionic direct dyes, is applied to the keratinous fibers.

[0104] Anionic direct-drawing dyes are also known as acid dyes. Acid dyes are defined as direct-drawing dyes that possess at least one carboxylic acid group (-COOH) and / or one sulfonic acid group (-SO3H) and / or one sulfate group (-OSO3H). Depending on the pH, the rhodium forms (-COOH, -SO3H) of the carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid groups exist in equilibrium with their deprotonated forms (-COO-, -SOs, or -OSOs-). The proportion of rhodium forms increases with decreasing pH. When direct-drawing dyes are used in the form of their salts, the carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid groups exist in deprotonated form and are neutralized with corresponding stoichiometric equivalents of cations to maintain electroneutrality. Acid dyes according to the invention can also be used in the form of their sodium salts and / or potassium salts.

[0105] Alkaline earth salts (such as calcium and magnesium salts) and aluminum salts of acid dyes often have lower solubility than the corresponding alkali salts. If the solubility of these salts is below 0.5 g / L (25 °C, 760 mmHg), they do not fall under the definition of a direct-drawing dye.

[0106] A key characteristic of acid dyes is their ability to form anionic charges, with the carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid groups responsible for this typically being linked to various chromophoric systems. Suitable chromophoric systems can be found, for example, in the structures of nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, triarylmethane dyes, xanthene dyes, rhodamine dyes, oxazine dyes, and / or indophenol dyes.

[0107] Als Beispiele für Säurefarbstoffe können genannt werden: Acid Yellow 1 (D&C Yellow 7, Citronin A, Ext. D&C Yellow No. 7, Japan Yellow 403, CI 10316, COLIPA n° B001), Acid Yellow 3 (COLIPA n° : C 54, D&C Yellow N° 10, Quinoline Yellow, E104, Food Yellow 13), Acid Yellow 9 (CI 13015), Acid Yellow 17 (CI 18965), Acid Yellow 23 (COLIPA n° C 29, Covacap Jaune W 1100 (LCW), Sicovit Tartrazine 85 E 102 (BASF), Tartrazine, Food Yellow 4, Japan Yellow 4, FD&C Yellow No. 5), Acid Yellow 36 (CI 13065), Acid Yellow 121 (CI 18690), Acid Orange 6 (CI 14270), Acid Orange 7 (2- Naphthol orange, Orange II, CI 15510, D&C Orange 4, COLIPA n° C015), Acid Orange 10 (C.l. 16230; Orange G sodium salt), Acid Orange 11 (Cl 45370), Acid Orange 15 (Cl 50120), Acid Orange 20 (Cl 14600), Acid Orange 24 (BROWN 1 ;CI20170;KATSU201 ;nosodiumsalt;Brown No.201 ;RESORCIN BROWN;ACID ORANGE 24;Japan Brown 201 ;D & C Brown No.1), Acid Red 14 (C.1.14720), Acid Red 18 (E124, Red 18; Cl 16255), Acid Red 27 (E 123, Cl 16185, C-Rot 46, Echtrot D, FD&C Red Nr.2, Food Red 9, Naphtholrot S), Acid Red 33 (Red 33, Fuchsia Red, D&C Red 33, Cl 17200), Acid Red 35 (Cl C.l.18065), Acid Red 51 (Cl 45430, Pyrosin B, Tetraiodfluorescein, Eosin J, lodeosin), Acid Red 52 (Cl 45100, Food Red 106, Solar Rhodamine B, Acid Rhodamine B, Red n° 106 Pontacyl Brilliant Pink), Acid Red 73 (Cl 27290), Acid Red 87 (Eosin, Cl 45380), Acid Red 92 (COLIPA n° C53, Cl 45410), Acid Red 95 (Cl 45425, Erythtosine, Simacid Erythrosine Y), Acid Red 184 (Cl 15685), Acid Red 195, Acid Violet 43 (Jarocol Violet 43, Ext. D&C Violet n° 2, C.l. 60730, COLIPA n° C063), Acid Violet 49 (Cl 42640), Acid Violet 50 (Cl 50325), Acid Blue 1 (Patent Blue, Cl 42045), Acid Blue 3 (Patent Blau V, Cl 42051), Acid Blue 7 (Cl 42080), Acid Blue 104 (Cl 42735), Acid Blue 9 (E 133, Patentblau AE, Amidoblau AE, Erioglaucin A, Cl 42090, C.l.Food Blue 2), Acid Blue 62 (Cl 62045), Acid Blue 74 (E 132, Cl 73015), Acid Blue 80 (Cl 61585), Acid Green 3 (Cl 42085, Foodgreenl), Acid Green 5 (Cl 42095), Acid Green 9 (C.1.42100), Acid Green 22 (C.1.42170), Acid Green 25 (Cl 61570, Japan Green 201 , D&C Green No. 5), Acid Green 50 (Brillantsäuregrün BS, C.l. 44090, Acid Brilliant Green BS, E 142), Acid Black 1 (Black n° 401 , Naphthalene Black 10B, Amido Black 10B, Cl 20 470, COLIPA n° B15), Acid Black 52 (Cl 15711), Food Yellow 8 (Cl 14270), Food Blue 5, D&C Yellow 8, D&C Green 5, D&C Orange 10, D&C Orange 11 , D&C Red 21 , D&C Red 27, D&C Red 33, D&C Violet 2 und / oder D&C Brown 1 .

[0108] Im Rahmen einer weiteren Ausführungsform ist ein erfindungsgemäßes Verfahren dadurch gekennzeichnet, es mindestens ein Säurefarbstoff zur Anwendung kommt, der ausgewählt ist aus der Gruppe aus Acid Yellow 1 , Acid Yellow 3, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 17, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 121 , Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 11 , Acid Orange 15, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 51 , Acid Red 52, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 87, Acid Red 95, Acid Red 184, Acid Red 195, Acid Violet 43, Acid Violet 49, Acid Violet 50, Acid Blue 1 , Acid Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 104, Acid Blue 9, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 74, Acid Blue 80, Acid Green 3, Acid Green 5, Acid Green 9, Acid Green 22, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 50, Acid Black 1 , Acid Black 52, Food Yellow 8, Food Blue 5, D&C Yellow 8, D&C Green 5, D&C Orange 10, D&C Orange 11 , D&C Red 21 , D&C Red 27, D&C Red 33,D&C Violet 2 and / or D&C Brown 1 .,

[0109] Since the alkaline earth salts (such as calcium and magnesium salts) or aluminum salts of acid dyes have lower solubility than the corresponding alkali metal salts, an organic dye that can be considered an acid dye in the form of its alkali metal salt can also exist as a pigment if the counterion for the acid group(s) is not an alkali metal ion, but an alkaline earth metal or an analogous, correspondingly more highly charged counterion. If the solubility of these salts is below 0.5 g / L (25 °C, 760 mmHg), the compounds do not fall under the definition of a direct-drawing dye.

[0110] Like pigments, acid dyes are not intended to diffuse primarily into the keratin fiber, but rather to be preferentially deposited embedded in the chitosan film on the surface of the keratin fibers. For this reason, acid dyes are particularly preferred, as they have a solubility so high that they can no longer be classified as organic pigments, but which nevertheless exhibit relatively poor solubility.

[0111] For this reason, acid dyes are particularly preferred as organic coloring compounds which have a solubility in water at 25 °C between 0.5 g / l and 20 g / l, preferably between 1.0 g / l and 17 g / l and most preferably between 2.0 g / l and 15 g / l.

[0112] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that at least one direct dye (I), which has a solubility in water at 25 °C between 0.5 g / l and 20 g / l, preferably between 1.0 g / l and 17 g / l and most preferably between 2.0 g / l and 15 g / l, is applied to the keratinous fibers.

[0113] The water solubility of anionic direct-acting dyes can be determined, for example, as follows. 0.1 g of the anionic direct-acting dye is placed in a beaker. A magnetic stir bar is added. Then, 100 ml of water is added. This mixture is heated to 25 °C on a magnetic stirrer while stirring. Stirring continues for 60 minutes. The aqueous mixture is then visually inspected. If undissolved dye remains, the amount of water is increased—for example, in 10 ml increments. Water is added until the dye is completely dissolved. If the dye-water mixture cannot be visually inspected due to the high intensity of the dye, the mixture is filtered. If some undissolved dye remains on the filter paper, the solubility test is repeated with a larger amount of water.If 0.1 g of the anionic direct-drawing dye dissolves in 100 ml of water at 25 °C, the solubility of the dye is 1.0 g / L.

[0114] Acid Yellow 1 is called 8-Hydroxy-5,7-dinitro-2-naphthalenesulfonic acid disodium salt and has a solubility in water of at least 40 g / L (25°C).

[0115] Acid Yellow 3 is a mixture of the sodium salts of mono- and disulfonic acids of 2-(2-quinolyl)- 1 H-indene-1 ,3(2H)-dione and has a water solubility of 20 g / L (25 °C).

[0116] Acid Yellow 9 is the disodium salt of 8-hydroxy-5,7-dinitro-2-naphthalenesulfonic acid; its water solubility is above 40 g / L (25 °C).

[0117] Acid Yellow 23 is the trisodium salt of 4,5-dihydro-5-oxo-1-(4-sulfophenyl)-4-((4-sulfophenyl)azo)-1H-pyrazole-3-carboxylic acid and is readily soluble in water at 25 °C.

[0118] Acid Orange 7 is the sodium salt of 4-[(2-Hydroxy-1-naphthyl)azo]benzenesulfonate. Its water solubility is greater than 7 g / L (25 °C).

[0119] Acid Red 18 is the trisodium salt of 7-Hydroxy-8-[(E)-(4-sulfonato-1-naphthyl)-diazenyl)]-1 ,3- naphthalenedisulfonate and has a very high water solubility of more than 20 wt.%.

[0120] Acid Red 33 is the disodium salt of 5-Amino-4-hydroxy-3-(phenylazo)-naphthalene-2,7-disulfonate, its water solubility is 2.5 g / L (25 °C).

[0121] Acid Red 92 is the disodium salt of 3,4,5,6-tetrachloro-2-(1,4,5,8-tetrabromo-6-hydroxy-3-oxoxanthen-9-yl)benzoic acid, whose water solubility is given as greater than 10 g / L (25 °C).

[0122] Brilliant Blue FCF, also known as Food Blue 2 or Acid Blue 9, is known as disodium 2-[(Z)-{4-[ethyl(3-sulfonatobenzyl)amino]phenyl}{(4Z)-4-[ethyl(3-sulfonatobenzyl)amino]-2,5-cyclohexadien-1-ylidene}methyl]benzenesulfonate and has the CAS number 3844-45-9. The disodium salt of Acid Blue 9 has a water solubility of more than 20% by weight (25 °C).

[0123] Acid Blue 74 is also known as Indigo Carmine, Food Blue 1, or FD&C Blue 2, and its chemical name is indigo-5,5'-disulfonic acid, disodium salt, or disodium 5,5'-(2-(1,3-dihydro-3-oxo-2H-indazol-2-ylidene)-1,2-dihydro-3H-indol-3-one)disulfonate. Acid Blue 74, in its disodium salt form, has a solubility of 10 g / L in water at 25 °C. Acid Blue 74 (disodium salt) has the Color Index number 73015 and can be purchased, for example, under the trade name Bleu Covalac W6504.

[0124] The coloring compounds (I) are particularly preferably incorporated into a dye (F), which is then applied to the keratinous fibers. This dye preferably contains the coloring compound(s) (I) in specific quantity ranges. Good results can be obtained, for example, if the dye contains one or more coloring compounds (I) in a total amount of 0.10 to 3.00 wt.%, preferably 0.15 to 2.00 wt.%, more preferably 0.2 to 1.50 wt.%, even more preferably 0.25 to 1.25 wt.%, and most preferably 0.30 to 1.00 wt.%.

[0125] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that a dye is applied to the keratinous fibers which - based on the total weight of the dye - contains one or more coloring compounds (I) in a total amount of 0.10 to 3.00 wt.%, preferably 0.15 to 2.00 wt.%, more preferably 0.2 to 1.50 wt.%, even more preferably 0.25 to 1.25 wt.% and most preferably 0.30 to 1.00 wt.%.

[0126] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that a dye is applied to the keratin fibers which - based on the total weight of the dye - contains one or more pigments (I) in a total amount of 0.10 to 3.00 wt.%, preferably 0.15 to 2.00 wt.%, more preferably 0.2 to 1.50 wt.%, even more preferably 0.25 to 1.25 wt.% and most preferably 0.30 to 1.00 wt.%.

[0127] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that a dyeing agent is applied to the keratin fibers which - based on the total weight of the dyeing agent - contains one or more direct dyes (I) in a total amount of 0.10 to 3.00 wt.%, preferably 0.15 to 2.00 wt.%, more preferably 0.2 to 1.50 wt.%, even more preferably 0.25 to 1.25 wt.% and most preferably 0.30 to 1.00 wt.%.

[0128] Chitosans (II)

[0129] In the process according to the invention, at least one chitosan or a derivative of chitosan (II) is applied to the keratinous fibers.

[0130] Chitosan, also known as polyglucosamine or poly-D-glucosamine, is a naturally occurring biopolymer derived from chitin, which is composed of β-1,4-glycosidically linked N-acetylglucosamine residues (specifically, 2-acetamido-2-deoxy-β-D-glucopyranose residues). Like chitin, it is a polyaminosaccharide. Chitosan is produced by deacetylating chitin, resulting in a molecule consisting of approximately 2000 linearly linked 2-amino-2-deoxy-β-D-glucopyranose or glucosamine monomers. Chitosan has the CAS number 9012-76-4. Chitosan is preferably produced from the chitin found in shellfish or crustaceans. Industrially, chitosan is obtained from chitin by deacetylation. This can be achieved, for example, using (hot) sodium hydroxide or enzymatically. Both processes are used in industry, but the alkaline procedure is clearly more prevalent in terms of volume.The degree of deacetylation can vary considerably: Deacetylation can be complete or partial, resulting in a distribution of strongly deacetylated areas alongside weakly deacetylated areas, or a homogeneous deacetylation distribution. Simultaneously, this chemical intervention can decrease the polymer chain length (depolymerization). The molecular weight of chitosan can be distributed over a wide range, for example, from 20,000 to approximately 5 million g / mol.

[0131] Chitosan derivatives are compounds with a chitosan core structure in which at least some of the existing functional groups have been chemically modified. Chitosan derivatives are also based on a poly-D-glucosamine or polyglucosamine structure.

[0132] A derivative of chitosan therefore has a poly-D-glucosamine or polyglucosamine structure, which has either been converted into its salt by protonation of one or more nitrogen atoms or which bears an organic substituent on at least one oxygen atom and / or at least one amino group.

[0133] For example, a chitosan with a molecular weight of 20,000 to 800,000 g / mol is very suitable, preferably 50,000 to 600,000 g / mol, more preferably 80,000 to 450,000 g / mol and most preferably 100,000 to 300,000 g / mol.

[0134] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that at least one chitosan and / or one chitosan derivative (II) with a molecular weight of 20,000 to 800,000 g / mol, preferably of 50,000 to 600,000 g / mol, more preferably of 80,000 to 450,000 g / mol and most preferably of 100,000 to 300,000 g / mol is applied to the keratinous fibers.

[0135] Chitosan with a molecular weight of 100,000 to 300,000 g / mol can be purchased commercially from the company Sigma Aldrich, for example.

[0136] Chitosan with a lower molecular weight of 10,000 to 30,000 g / mol (or Daltons) is commercially available in pharmaceutical purity, for example, from BioLog Heppe (Kraeber). The degree of deacetylation of this chitosan is 88–95%. Chitosan in the form of its hydrochloride can be obtained as vegan chitosan from Sandream Impact. The hydrochloride of the chitosan is a chitosan derivative according to the invention.

[0137] Chitosan 027 is a suitable, commercially available, high-molecular-weight chitosan from the company Polymar, which has a molecular weight of 100,000 - 2,000,000 g / mol.

[0138] The chitosans or chitosane derivatives (II) are most preferably incorporated into the dye together with the coloring compound(s) (I). It has proven particularly advantageous if this dye contains the chitosans and / or chitosane derivatives (II) in certain quantity ranges. Particularly good results have been obtained when the dye (F) – based on the total weight of the dye (F) – contained one or more chitosans and / or chitosane derivatives in a total amount of 0.1 to 7.0 wt.%, preferably 0.2 to 4.5 wt.%, more preferably 0.3 to 2.5 wt.%, and most preferably 0.4 to 1.2 wt.%.

[0139] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that a dye is applied to the keratinous fibers which - based on the total weight of the dye - contains one or more chitosans and / or chitosan derivatives (II) in a total amount of 0.1 to 7.0 wt.%, preferably 0.2 to 4.5 wt.%, more preferably 0.3 to 2.5 wt.%, and most preferably 0.4 to 1.2 wt.%.

[0140] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that a dye is applied to the keratinous fibers which - based on the total weight of the dye - contains one or more chitosans (II) in a total amount of 0.1 to 7.0 wt.%, preferably 0.2 to 4.5 wt.%, more preferably 0.3 to 2.5 wt.%, and most preferably 0.4 to 1.2 wt.%.

[0141] Fat components (III)

[0142] In the process according to the invention, at least one fat component (III) from the group consisting of vegetable oils, ester oils and hydrocarbons is applied to the keratinous fibers.

[0143] Vegetable oils are defined as oils of plant origin that are liquid at a temperature of 20 °C.

[0144] A substance that is liquid at 20 °C is a free-flowing substance with a melting point below 20 °C. For the purposes of this invention, "fatty components" are defined as organic compounds with a solubility in water at room temperature (20 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) of less than 1 wt.%, preferably less than 0.1 wt.%. The definition of fatty components explicitly includes only uncharged (i.e., non-ionic) compounds. The molecular weight of the fatty components is a maximum of 5000 g / mol, preferably a maximum of 2500 g / mol, and particularly preferably a maximum of 1000 g / mol. The fatty components are neither polyoxyalkylated nor polyglycerylated compounds.

[0145] Applying the coloring compounds (I) and chitosans (II) to the keratin fibers creates a chitosan film in which the dyes are embedded. Experiments conducted on hair revealed that this film often contains small air inclusions. These air inclusions appear to alter the refractive index of the film layer, causing the dyed hair surface to appear less vibrant. Furthermore, it was found that the chitosan films tend to dry out over time, becoming rougher and more brittle.

[0146] The studies conducted revealed that the fatty components (III), when applied to the hair either together with components (I) and (II) in the dye or separately in a post-treatment solution, penetrate the film and fill the air bubbles. Furthermore, a thin layer of oil forms on the chitosan film. This alters the refractive index of the layer, making the dyed hair appear shinier. The intensity of the hair color can also be increased in this way. In addition, the incorporated oil makes the film more flexible, improving the feel of the hair and making it smoother and more manageable. The application of fatty components (III) also increased the film's resistance and improved the colorfastness of the dyed keratin fibers.

[0147] For sustainability reasons, it is particularly desirable to maximize the proportion of natural or nature-based ingredients used. Therefore, it is especially desirable to use at least one vegetable oil as the fat component (III). Particularly suitable plant oils include, for example, amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, bitter cherry kernel oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, safflower oil, safflower kernel oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, rosehip seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, elderberry seed oil, blackcurrant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn germ oil, almond oil, maneketti oil, marula oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, orange oil, palm oil, peach kernel oil, Brazil nut oil, rapeseed oil, rice oil, sea buckthorn pulp oil, sea buckthorn kernel oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, watermelon seed oil, walnut oil, wheat germ oil, and rosehip oil.In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that at least one vegetable oil (III) from the group consisting of amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, bitter cherry kernel oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, safflower oil, safflower seed oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, rosehip seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, elderberry seed oil, blackcurrant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn germ oil, almond oil, maneketti oil, marula oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, orange oil, palm oil, peach kernel oil, Brazil nut oil, rapeseed oil, rice oil, sea buckthorn pulp oil, sea buckthorn kernel oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, watermelon seed oil, walnut oil, wheat germ oil and rosehip oil is applied to the keratin fibers are applied.

[0148] Bassus oil can also be called Orbignya oleifera kernel oil.

[0149] Brazil nut oil can also be called Bertholletia Excelsa kernel oil.

[0150] Macadamia nut oil is called Macadamia Ternifolia kernel oil.

[0151] Marula oil can also be called Sclerocarya Birrea kernel oil.

[0152] Maneketti oil can also be called Schinzipphyton rautenii seed oil. Rosehip seed oil can also be called Rosa rubiginosa seed oil.

[0153] The vegetable oils can be purchased in cosmetic purity from various suppliers.

[0154] As a fatty component (III), at least one ester oil can also be applied to the keratinous fibers. Ester oils are understood to be esters of Ce-Cso fatty acids with aliphatic O2-O24 alcohols, which are liquid at room temperature (20 °C). In other words, ester oils according to the invention are characterized in that they have a melting point below 20 °C at normal pressure (1013 mbar).

[0155] Examples of Ce-Cso fatty acids suitable for the formation of the ester oils (III) are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid, as well as their technical mixtures.

[0156] Examples of the aliphatic O2-O24 alcohols in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, capron alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol, as well as their technical mixtures.

[0157] These Ce-Cso fatty acids are esterified by reaction with an aliphatic C2-C24 alcohol, which is particularly preferably a mono-alcohol, so that a mono-ester is formed during esterification.

[0158] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that at least one ester oil (III) from the group of monoesters of Ce-Cso fatty acids and aliphatic C2-C24 alcohols is applied to the keratinous fibers.

[0159] The aliphatic Ci-C24 alcohols can be linear or branched, saturated, or mono- or polyunsaturated.

[0160] For example, an aliphatic saturated C2-C24 alcohol can be used that is selected from the group consisting of ethanol, n-propanol, iso-propanol, n-butanol, n-pentanol, 2-ethylhexanol, n-hexanol, n-octanol, n-decanol and n-dodecanol.

[0161] Examples of monohydric, unsaturated, C2-C24 alcohols are oleyl alcohol (octadec-9-en-1-ol), palmitoleyl alcohol (c / s-9-hexadecen-1-ol), elaidyl alcohol (trans-9-octadecen-1-ol) and c / s-11-octadecen-1-ol.

[0162] To form the esters (III) according to the invention, the Ce-Cso fatty acids and the aliphatic C2-C24 alcohols are selected such that the ester formed by esterification of both reactants is an ester oil, i.e., that it has a melting point below 20 °C at 1013 mbar.

[0163] Some ester oils (III) according to the invention can be used in the form of commercially available raw materials, which are mixtures of esters obtained from fatty acids of different chain lengths and / or alcohols of different chain lengths. These raw materials may have a melting point below 20 °C. For these raw materials, a melting point below 20 °C means that the melting process begins at a temperature below 20 °C.

[0164] For example, if an ester oil in the form of a specific raw material can be used on average, wherein this raw material has a melting range of 16 to 27 °C, then this raw material contains at least one ester oil with a melting point below 20 °C. This ester oil is therefore compliant with the invention.

[0165] Particularly preferred according to the invention are 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft® 24), isopropyl myristate (Rilanit® IPM), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol® SN), stearic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol® 868), cetyl oleate, glyceryl tricaprylate, coconut fatty alcohol caprylate (Cetiol® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl oleate (Cetiol® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit® IPP), oleyl oleate (Cetiol®), hexyl lauric acid ester (Cetiol® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol® B), cetearyl isononanoate (Cetiol® SN), and oleic acid decyl ester (Cetiol® V).

[0166] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that at least one ester oil (III) from the group consisting of isopropyl myristate, isononanoic acid Cl6-Cl8-alkyl ester, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, stearic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, cetyl oleate, coconut fatty alcohol caprylate Cl-caprylate, n-butyl stearate, oleyl oleate, isopropyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, hexyl lauric acid ester, cetearyl isononanoate and oleic acid decyl ester is applied to the keratinous fibers.

[0167] Isopropyl myristate is also known as isopropyl myristic acid ester and has the CAS number 110-27-0. It is a colorless and odorless liquid with a melting point of 0–1 °C.

[0168] Isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester is also known as cetearyl isononanoate; this ester bears the CAS numbers 84878-33-1 and 84878-34-2. Isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester is a clear, slightly yellowish liquid. At 20 °C, isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester has a viscosity of 19–22 mPas.

[0169] 2-Ethylhexyl palmitate is also known as hexadecanoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester and has the CAS number 29806-73-3. 2-Ethylhexyl palmitate is a branched, saturated ester oil composed of palmitic acid and ethylhexyl alcohol. At room temperature, 2-Ethylhexyl palmitate is a clear, colorless liquid with a slightly greasy odor.

[0170] Ethylhexyl stearate (also known as stearic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester) has the CAS number 91031-48-0. It is a clear, slightly yellowish, thin oil. At 20 °C, it has a viscosity of 14–16 mPas and is therefore an oil at room temperature.

[0171] Cetyl oleate has the CAS number 22393-86-8. Coconut fatty alcohol caprylate / caprate has the CAS number 95912-86-0. It is a mixture of Cs-Cio fatty acids with Ci2-Ci8 fatty alcohols, occurring as a yellow liquid with a melting point of 10 °C. n-Butyl stearate, also known as butyl stearate, has the CAS numbers 85408-76-0 (C16-18) and 123-95-5 (C18). n-Butyl stearate is a yellowish liquid and begins to melt at 16 °C.

[0172] Oleylerucate has the CAS number 17673-56-2. Oleylerucate is a yellow liquid. At 20 °C, oleylerucate has a viscosity of 40–50 mPas and is therefore an oil at room temperature.

[0173] Isopropyl palmitate is also known as propan-2-yl hexadecanoate and has the CAS number 142-91-6. The melting point of isopropyl palmitate is 13.5 °C.

[0174] Oleyl oleate is also alternatively known as cis-9,10-octadecenyl-cis-9,10-octadecanoate or oleic acid oleyl ester and has the CAS number 3687-45-4. Oleyl oleate is a clear, slightly yellowish oil with a viscosity of 25–30 mPas at 20 °C and is an oil at room temperature.

[0175] Hexyl laurate, also known as hexyl laurate, has the CAS number 34316-64-8. At room temperature, hexyl laurate is a clear, yellowish, odorless oil. At 20 °C, it has a viscosity of 5–7 mPas and is therefore an oil at room temperature.

[0176] Cetearyl isononanoate is also alternatively known as isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester and has the CAS numbers 84878-33-1 and 84878-34-2. Cetearyl isononanoate is a yellowish liquid with a melting point of 16–22 °C.

[0177] Decyl oleate is also known as decyl oleate and has the CAS number 3687-46-5. It is a slightly yellowish liquid with a viscosity of 15–20 mPas at 20 °C. Therefore, at room temperature, it is an oil.

[0178] As a fat component (III), at least one hydrocarbon can also be applied to the keratinous fibers. To achieve the best possible filling of the air bubbles as described above, at least one hydrocarbon that is liquid at 20 °C is preferably used in the process according to the invention. Hydrocarbons are compounds consisting exclusively of carbon and hydrogen atoms with 8 to 80 carbon atoms. In this context, squalane, aliphatic hydrocarbons such as mineral oils, liquid paraffin oils (e.g., paraffinum liquidum or paraffinum perliquidum), isoparaffin oils, synthetic hydrocarbons, and polydecenes are particularly preferred.

[0179] Hydrocarbons that are liquid at 20 °C are characterized by having a melting point below 20 °C at atmospheric pressure.

[0180] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that at least one hydrocarbon (III) which is liquid at 20 °C and is preferably selected from the group consisting of squalane, mineral oils, paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils, synthetic hydrocarbons and polydecenes is applied to the keratinous fibers.

[0181] Squalane is also alternatively known as 2,6,10,15,19,23-hexamethyltetracosane, dodecahydrosqualene, or squalane, has the structural formula (SQ) and the CAS number 111-01-3.

[0182] The melting point of squalane is -38 °C, and its boiling point is 176 °C (0.05 mmHg), so that squalane is liquid at 20 °C.

[0183] Paraffin oils are generally mixtures of acyclic alkanes of the general formula C n H2n+2. The number n is approximately between 18 and 32.

[0184] Isoparaffin oils are a mixture of isoalkanes, which are branched hydrocarbons.

[0185] Avoiding silicone connections

[0186] As previously described, for sustainability reasons it is particularly advantageous to maximize the proportion of natural or nature-based ingredients used in the process. In particular, using chitosan as a natural film former and vegetable oils as natural fat components allows for especially environmentally friendly dyeing processes. Accordingly, it is also highly preferable to avoid all non-nature-based ingredients. Environmentally conscious users often have reservations, especially regarding silicone oils. For these reasons, it is particularly preferable to avoid silicone compounds in the process according to the invention.

[0187] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that no silicone compounds are used during the method.

[0188] A silicone compound is understood to be an organic substance that comprises at least one silicon atom.

[0189] If no silicone compounds are used during the dyeing process, this means that all agents used in the process according to the invention are free of silicone compounds. The term "free of silicone compounds" means that the silicone compound content in the respective agent is 0% by weight. This content refers to the total weight of the agent.

[0190] For example, in the process according to the invention, a dyeing agent (F) and a post-treatment agent (N) can be applied to the keratin fibers. In this embodiment, both agents are particularly preferably free of silicone compounds.

[0191] It is particularly preferred if a dye (F) is applied to the keratinous fibers in the process which is free of silicone compounds.

[0192] It is also particularly preferred if a post-treatment agent (N) is applied to the keratinous fibers in the process which is free of silicone compounds.

[0193] Sequence of application of (I), (II) and (III)

[0194] During the process according to the invention, the components (I), (II) and (III) described above can be applied to the keratin fibers either simultaneously or sequentially. The order in which the three components are applied to the fibers is entirely unrestricted.

[0195] In principle, all three components (I), (II), and (III) can be applied to the fibers sequentially. However, to ensure optimal embedding of the coloring compounds (I) in the chitosan film (II), it is particularly advantageous to apply components (I) and (II) together. For this purpose, (I) and (II) can be incorporated together into a dye. The fat component(s) (III) can then either also be integrated into the dye or applied as a post-treatment agent after the dye. This latter embodiment is particularly preferred.

[0196] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that

[0197] (1) in a first step a dye (F) is applied to the keratinous fibers which

[0198] (I) at least one colouring compound from the group consisting of pigments and direct dyes, and

[0199] (II) contains at least one chitosan and / or chitosan derivative, and

[0200] (2) in a second step following the first step, a post-treatment agent (N) is applied to the keratinous fibers, which

[0201] (III) contains at least one fatty component from the group consisting of vegetable oils, ester oils and hydrocarbons.

[0202] In step (1) of this embodiment, the dye (F) is applied to the keratin fibers. This application can be carried out, for example, with a gloved hand or using a brush or applicator. After application, the dye (F) can be distributed over the hair and, if necessary, gently massaged in.

[0203] The coloring agent (F) is applied to at least a portion of the hair. For example, it can be applied to one or more individual strands, one or more sections of hair, or even several wider segments of hair. Applying the coloring agent (F) to the user's entire head of hair is also possible.

[0204] After application, or application and distribution, the dye can be left to take effect for some time, for example from 10 seconds to 30 minutes.

[0205] After applying the dye, step (2) involves applying the after-treatment agent (N), which contains the fat component(s) (III). Just like the dye (F), the after-treatment agent (N) can also be applied, for example, with a gloved hand or using a brush or applicator. After application, the after-treatment agent (N) can be spread on the hair and, if necessary, gently massaged in. According to the invention, the after-treatment agent (N) is applied to the keratin fibers or hair that have already been treated with the dye (F).

[0206] After application, or application and distribution, the after-treatment agent (N) can also be left to act for a certain period of time, for example, from 10 seconds to 30 minutes. As previously described, both the dye (F) and the after-treatment agent (N) are free of silicone compounds.

[0207] In another embodiment, components (I), (II) and (III) can also be applied to the keratinous fibers simultaneously. For this purpose, the three components (I), (II) and (III) are preferably all incorporated together into the dye.

[0208] In a further embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that

[0209] (1) in a first step a dye (F) is applied to the keratinous fibers which

[0210] (I) at least one colouring compound from the group consisting of pigments and direct dyes, and

[0211] (II) at least one chitosan and / or chitosan derivative, and

[0212] (III) contains at least one fatty component from the group consisting of vegetable oils, ester oils and hydrocarbons, and

[0213] (2) if necessary, in a second step following the first step, a post-treatment agent (N) is applied to the keratinous fibers.

[0214] In step (1) of this embodiment, the dye (F) is applied to the keratin fibers. This application can be carried out, for example, with a gloved hand or using a brush or applicator. After application, the dye (F) can be distributed over the hair and, if necessary, gently massaged in.

[0215] The coloring agent (F) is applied to at least a portion of the hair. For example, it can be applied to one or more individual strands, one or more sections of hair, or even several wider segments of hair. Applying the coloring agent (F) to the user's entire head of hair is also possible.

[0216] After application, or application and distribution, the dye can be left to take effect for some time, for example from 10 seconds to 30 minutes.

[0217] The use of a post-treatment agent (N) is optional in this embodiment. The use of a post-treatment agent can be advantageous, for example, if the fat components are to be applied to the keratin fibers a second time. In this case, both the coloring agent (F) and the post-treatment agent (N) contain one or more of the fat components (III) described above. However, it is also possible to use a post-treatment agent (N) containing a different conditioning agent. Alternatively, the use of the post-treatment agent (N) can be omitted in this embodiment.

[0218] Amounts of fat components (III) in the dye (F) and / or in the aftertreatment agent (N)

[0219] The fat component(s) (III) are most preferably applied in the form of a separately formulated post-treatment agent. It has proven particularly advantageous if this post-treatment agent contains the fat component(s) (III) in specific quantity ranges. Particularly good results have been obtained when the post-treatment agent (N) contains one or more fat components (III) in a total amount of 0.1 to 100.0 wt.%, preferably 10.0 to 100.0 wt.%, more preferably 50.0 to 100.0 wt.%, and most preferably 70.0 to 100.0 wt.%.

[0220] In a further embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the post-treatment agent (N) - based on the total weight of the post-treatment agent (N) - contains one or more fat components (III) in a total amount of 0.1 to 100.0 wt. %, preferably 10.0 to 100.0 wt. %, more preferably 50.0 to 100.0 wt. %, and most preferably 70.0 to 100.0 wt. %,.

[0221] A post-treatment product (N) with a correspondingly high content of fat components may particularly be a hair oil.

[0222] In a further embodiment, the fat component(s) (III) can also be incorporated into the dyeing agent (F) together with the components (I) and (II). The dyeing agent preferably contains the fat component(s) (III) in somewhat smaller quantities than the post-treatment agent (N).

[0223] In a further embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the dyeing agent (F) - based on the total weight of the dyeing agent (F) - contains one or more fat components (III) in a total amount of 0.1 to 20.0 wt.%, preferably 0.3 to 15.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.5 to 10.0 wt.% and most preferably 1.0 to 5.0 wt.%.

[0224] Leave-on or rinse-off application of the dye

[0225] The dye described above can be used in the inventive process as a rinse-off or leave-on product. In the case of a rinse-off application, the dye (F) is applied to the keratin fibers and, after a dwell time, rinsed off with water or with water and the aid of shampoo. However, particularly good results were obtained when the dye (F) was applied as a leave-on product; that is, the dye was preferably not rinsed off, but rather the keratin fibers still covered with the dye were dried.

[0226] To accelerate the drying process, the keratin fibers covered with the dye (F) can be heated. Heating accelerates the evaporation of the cosmetic carrier (e.g., water and ethanol) present in the dye (F), allowing the film consisting of pigment, chitosan (derivative), and, if necessary, acid, to form properly.

[0227] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the hair still covered with the dye (F) is dried, wherein the drying preferably takes place at a temperature of 40 °C to 210 °C, more preferably from 40 °C to 190 °C, more preferably from 45 °C to 170 °C, even more preferably from 45 °C to 100 °C and most preferably from 45 °C to 70 °C.

[0228] The after-treatment product (N) can also be used as a rinse-off or leave-on product. In the case of a rinse-off application, the after-treatment product (N) is applied to the keratin fibers in the same way and, after a processing time, rinsed out with water or with water and shampoo. Particularly good results were obtained when the after-treatment product (N), just like the colorant (F), was applied as a leave-on product; that is, the after-treatment product was preferably not rinsed out, but rather the keratin fibers still covered with the after-treatment product were allowed to dry. For example, when using hair oil, it was absorbed by the keratin fibers, so rinsing was unnecessary.

[0229] In a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the hair still covered with the after-treatment agent (N) is dried, wherein the drying preferably takes place at a temperature of 40 °C to 210 °C, more preferably from 40 °C to 190 °C, more preferably from 45 °C to 170 °C, even more preferably from 45 °C to 100 °C and most preferably from 45 °C to 70 °C.

[0230] The duration of the heat treatment can be adjusted to the selected temperature range. For example, heat treatment can be carried out for a duration of 5 seconds to 60 minutes, preferably from 15 seconds to 45 minutes, more preferably from 15 seconds to 30 minutes, and most preferably from 15 seconds to 15 minutes.

[0231] In the process according to the invention, the keratin fibers can be completely subjected to heat treatment, but the treatment of partial areas of the keratin fibers can also be included. Complete heat treatment of the keratin fibers is preferred, i.e., preferably all keratin fibers to which the dye (F) or the post-treatment agent (N) has been applied are heat treated.

[0232] During the heat treatment, the keratin fibers can also be combed or brushed. This resulted in the strands being separated particularly well and the feel of the film-coated hair being especially pleasant.

[0233] For example, the keratin fibers or hair can be treated with a hairdryer, possibly under combs or brushes, blowing warm or hot air onto the fibers. This air is particularly preferred at a temperature of 40 to 70 °C. Alternatively, the keratin material or hair can be held under an infrared lamp, preferably set to a temperature of 40 to 70 °C.

[0234] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the heating of the keratin fibers covered with the dyeing agent (F) and / or the post-treatment agent (N) is carried out by using a hairdryer, a hair dryer, a heat cap, a flat iron, a curling iron or an infrared lamp.

[0235] However, the drying of the keratinous fibers after application of the post-treatment agent (N) can also take place at room temperature.

[0236] The inventive method, involving the application of the dyeing agent (F) and the after-treatment agent (N), comprises steps (1) and (2). These two steps (1) and (2) are carried out within the same dyeing process. Since the dyeing agent (F) and the after-treatment agent (N) are particularly preferably applied via a leave-on application, the hair is not rinsed with tap water (or with tap water and shampoo or surfactant) during the process; or, in other words, preferably no rinsing or hair washing takes place during the process.

[0237] In a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that no washing step takes place between steps (1) and (2).

[0238] Assuming that a user washes their hair on average at least every two days, the period within which steps (1) and (2) are carried out is practically limited to a maximum of 48 hours. However, it has proven particularly advantageous to further limit this period to a maximum of 24 hours, more preferably to a maximum of 12 hours, and most preferably to a maximum of 4 hours. If steps (1) and (2) are carried out within a period of no more than 4 hours, then the user either visits the hairdresser once or performs the coloring process once at home and achieves the desired color result at the end of the process after completing step (2).

[0239] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, the method according to the invention is characterized in that the dyeing agent (F) and the post-treatment agent (N) are applied to the keratinous fibers within a period of at most 48 hours, preferably at most 24 hours, more preferably at most 12 hours, and most preferably at most 4 hours. Further ingredients in the dyeing agent (F)

[0240] The dye described above, which particularly preferably contains the coloring compounds (I) and chitosans or chitosan derivatives (II), may also optionally contain at least one aliphatic C1-C22 monoalcohol.

[0241] An aliphatic C1-C22 monoalcohol is an organic compound with one to 22 carbon atoms that possesses an OH group (hydroxyl group) bonded to one of the carbon atoms. This alcohol is aliphatic, meaning it is not an aromatic alcohol.

[0242] Particularly suitable aliphatic C1-C22 monoalcohols can be selected, for example, from the group of methanol, ethanol, 1-propanol, isopropanol, 1-butanol, 1-pentanol, 2-methyl-2-butanol and 1-hexanol.

[0243] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a dye used in the process according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one aliphatic C1-C22 monoalcohol from the group consisting of ethanol, 1-propanol, isopropanol, 1-butanol, 1-pentanol, 2-methyl-2-butanol and 1-hexanol, most preferably ethanol.

[0244] Ethanol has the Cas number 64-17-5.

[0245] 1-Propanol, also known as propyl alcohol, has the CAS number 71-23-8.

[0246] Isopropanol is also alternatively called 2-propanol and has the CAS number 67-63-0.

[0247] 1-Butanol can alternatively be called n-butanol or butyl alcohol and has the CAS number 71-36-3.

[0248] 1-Pentanol has the CAS number 71-41-0 and is also known as amyl alcohol.

[0249] 2-Methyl-2-butanol has the CAS number 75-85-4 and is also known as tert-pentanol. 1-Hexanol has the CAS number 111-27-3 and is also known as hexyl alcohol or capron alcohol. These aliphatic C1-C22 monoalcohols are preferably used in specific proportions in dyes.

[0250] Particularly uniform and resistant colorations could be achieved when the dyeing agent contained one or more aliphatic C1-C22 monoalcohols in a total amount of 40 to 95 wt.%, preferably 50 to 90 wt.%, more preferably 55 to 85 wt.% and most preferably 60 to 80 wt.%.

[0251] Due to the high solvent or alcohol content in the dye (F), the water content of the dye is preferably chosen to be relatively low. Very good results were obtained when the dye (F) contained 10 to 50 wt.%, preferably 15 to 45 wt.%, more preferably 20 to 40 wt.%, and most preferably 25 to 35 wt.% water, based on the total weight of the respective dye.

[0252] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the dyeing agent (F) and / or the post-treatment agent (N) contains at least one organic acid from the group consisting of acetic acid, citric acid, succinic acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, malonic acid, maleic acid and benzoic acid.

[0253] Particularly suitable organic acids include, for example, acetic acid, citric acid, succinic acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, malonic acid, maleic acid and benzoic acid.

[0254] Formic acid and propanoic acid are also suitable as organic acids.

[0255] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the dye (F) contains at least one organic acid from the group consisting of acetic acid, citric acid, succinic acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, malonic acid, maleic acid and benzoic acid.

[0256] Acetic acid dissolves chitosan particularly well and leads to very thin and uniform films; therefore, a dye (F) containing acetic acid is especially preferred. The post-treatment agent (N) also preferably contains acetic acid.

[0257] Kit of parts

[0258] To increase user convenience, all dyes required for a dyeing process are preferably provided to the user in the form of a single product or a multi-component packaging unit. If all components (I), (II), and (III) are contained in the dye, the dyeing product primarily comprises the dye (F) packaged in a suitable container.

[0259] If the fat components (III) are applied separately in a post-treatment agent, a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) is particularly preferably provided to the user, which comprises a coloring agent (F) and a post-treatment agent (N) in two separately packaged containers.

[0260] A second subject matter of the present application is therefore a kit for dyeing hair, in particular human hair, comprising in two separately packaged containers a dyeing agent (F) and a post-treatment agent (N), wherein

[0261] - the dye (F1) contains

[0262] (I) at least one colouring compound from the group consisting of pigments and direct dyes, and

[0263] (II) contains at least one chitosan and / or chitosan derivative, and

[0264] - the after-treatment agent (N) contains

[0265] (III) at least one fatty component from the group consisting of vegetable oils, ester oils and hydrocarbons, wherein components (I), (II) and (III) have been disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject matter of the invention.

[0266] Suitable containers include, for example, bottles, tubes, sachets, or cans. Preferably, the containers include an applicator suitable for the application.

[0267] Regarding the other preferred embodiments of the kit according to the invention, what has been said about the method according to the invention applies mutatis mutantis.

[0268] Examples

[0269] 1. Formulations

[0270] The following dyes were produced (all values, unless otherwise stated, are in wt.%):

[0271] A swelling solution was produced from the water, acetic acid and chitosan.

[0272] The respective pigment was dispersed in ethanol. This dispersion was homogenized by rapid stirring. Subsequently, the aqueous chitosan swelling and the alcoholic pigment dispersion were mixed together and homogenized by rapid stirring.

[0273] The following post-treatment agents were used (all values, unless otherwise stated, in wt.%):

[0274] 2. Application on counters

[0275] For the dyeing experiments, hair wefts (Kerling company) with a width of 2 cm were used.

[0276] The respective dye was applied across the entire width of the hair weft. The weft, still coated with dye, was then dried with a standard hairdryer. During drying, the weft was combed through. After drying, the respective after-treatment product (N) was applied to the right side of each hair weft. The oil used was absorbed by the dyed hair. The weft, still coated with the after-treatment product (N), was then briefly dried again with the hairdryer. During drying, the weft was once more combed through.

[0277] The color intensities achieved during the dyeing process were visually assessed by trained individuals. Each hair weft was examined under a daylight lamp, and the left side of the weft was compared to the right side. The color intensity and shine of the strand were rated using a school grading system (1 = very high color intensity, 6 = very low color intensity; 1 = very high shine, 6 = no shine).

[0278] The post-treatment with the tested oils significantly improved the shine and color intensity of the dyed strands. The effects achieved with the different oils were comparable.

[0279] 3. Further examples of wording

[0280] Each of the dyes F3, F4, F5, F6, F7, and F8 was applied to a strand of hair (a section). The strand, still coated with the dye, was then dried with a standard hairdryer. During drying, the strand was combed through. After drying, the after-treatment product (N, hair oil) was applied to each of the dyed strands. The strand, still coated with the after-treatment product (N), was then briefly dried again with the hairdryer. During this drying process, the strand was combed through once more. The result was intensely colored strands with a high shine.

Claims

Patent claims 1. Method for dyeing keratinous fibers, especially human hair, wherein (I) at least one colouring compound from the group consisting of pigments and direct dyes, and (II) at least one chitosan and / or chitosan derivative, and (III) at least one fat component from the group consisting of vegetable oils, ester oils and hydrocarbons, is applied to the keratinous fibers either simultaneously or successively.

2. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that at least one pigment (I) from the group consisting of inorganic pigments, organic pigments, pigments based on a lamellar substrate platelet, pigments based on a lenticular substrate platelet and vacuum metallized pigments is applied to the keratinous fibers.

3. Method according to one of claims 1 to 2, characterized in that at least one coloring compound (I) from the group of direct dyes, particularly preferably from the group of anionic direct dyes, is applied to the keratinous fibers.

4. Method according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that at least one direct dye (I) having a solubility in water at 25 °C between 0.5 g / l and 20 g / l, preferably between 1.0 g / l and 17 g / l and most preferably between 2.0 g / l and 15 g / l, is applied to the keratinous fibers.

5. Method according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that at least one chitosan and / or one chitosan derivative (II) with a molecular weight of 20,000 to 800,000 g / mol, preferably of 50,000 to 600,000 g / mol, more preferably of 80,000 to 450,000 g / mol and most preferably of 100,000 to 300,000 g / mol is applied to the keratinous fibers.

6. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that at least one vegetable oil (III) from the group consisting of amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, bitter cherry kernel oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, safflower oil, safflower seed oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, rosehip seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, elderberry seed oil, blackcurrant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn germ oil, almond oil, maneketti oil, marula oil, Evening primrose oil, olive oil, orange oil, palm oil, peach kernel oil, Brazil nut oil, rapeseed oil, rice oil, sea buckthorn pulp oil, sea buckthorn kernel oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, watermelon seed oil, walnut oil, wheat germ oil and rosehip oil are applied to the keratin fibers.

7. Method according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that at least one ester oil (III) from the group of monoesters of Ce-Cso fatty acids and aliphatic C2-C24 alcohols is applied to the keratinous fibers.

8. Method according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that at least one ester oil (III) from the group consisting of isopropyl myristate, isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl esters, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, stearic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, cetyl oleate, coconut fatty alcohol caprylate / capritol, n-butyl stearate, oleyl oleate, isopropyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, hexyl lauric acid esters, cetearyl isononanoate and oleic acid decyl ester is applied to the keratinous fibers.

9. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that at least one at 20 0 liquid hydrocarbon (III), preferably selected from the group consisting of squalane, mineral oils, paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils, synthetic hydrocarbons and polydecenes, is applied to the keratinous fibers.

10. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that no silicone compounds are used during the method.

11. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that (1) in a first step a dye (F) is applied to the keratinous fibers which (I) at least one colouring compound from the group consisting of pigments and direct dyes, and (II) contains at least one chitosan and / or chitosan derivative, and (2) in a second step following the first step, a post-treatment agent (N) is applied to the keratinous fibers, which (III) contains at least one fatty component from the group consisting of vegetable oils, ester oils and hydrocarbons.

12. Method according to one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that (1) in a first step a dye (F) is applied to the keratinous fibers which (I) at least one colouring compound from the group consisting of pigments and direct dyes, and (II) at least one chitosan and / or chitosan derivative, and (III) contains at least one fatty component from the group consisting of vegetable oils, ester oils and hydrocarbons, and (2) if necessary, in a second step following the first step, a post-treatment agent (N) is applied to the keratinous fibers.

13. Method according to claims 11 to 12, characterized in that the post-treatment agent (N) - based on the total weight of the post-treatment agent (N) - contains one or more fat components (III) in a total amount of 0.1 to 100.0 wt. %, preferably 10.0 to 100.0 wt. %, further preferably 50.0 to 100.0 wt. %, and most preferably 70.0 to 100.0 wt. %, 14. Method according to one of claims 11 to 13, characterized in that the hair still covered with the dye (F) is dried, wherein the drying preferably takes place at a temperature of 40 °C to 210 °C, preferably from 40 °C to 190 °C, more preferably from 45 °C to 170 °C, even more preferably from 45 °C to 100 °C and most preferably from 45 °C to 70 °C.

15. Method according to one of claims 11 to 14, characterized in that the dyeing agent (F) and the post-treatment agent (N) are applied to the keratin fibers within a period of at most 48 hours, preferably at most 24 hours, more preferably at most 12 hours and most preferably at most 4 hours.

16. Multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) for dyeing hair, in particular human hair, comprising in two separately packaged containers a dyeing agent (F) and a post-treatment agent (N), wherein - the dye (F1) contains (I) at least one colouring compound from the group consisting of pigments and direct dyes, and (II) contains at least one chitosan and / or chitosan derivative, and - the after-treatment agent (N) contains (III) at least one fatty component from the group consisting of vegetable oils, ester oils and hydrocarbons, wherein the components (I), (II) and (III) are defined in claims 1 to 10.

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