Solid rod-like cosmetic

Abstract

A solid rod-like cosmetic comprising at least a low-polarity fraction carnauba wax, an oil component, a film-forming agent, a high-viscosity semi-solid lubricant, and a pigment.

Description

Solid stick cosmetic

[0001] The technology of the present disclosure relates to solid stick cosmetics. Specifically, it relates to solid stick cosmetics that have a smooth and soft application feeling while having high hardness and being difficult to break. Furthermore, it relates to solid stick cosmetics that have excellent color development regardless of the underlying skin color.

[0002] Conventionally, as solid stick cosmetics such as eyebrow pencils and eyeliners, those obtained by kneading waxes such as fats and oils, waxes, fatty acids, hydrocarbons, and clays as binders with colorants and extenders and molding them into sticks are known.

[0003] For example, as a solid cosmetic having excellent mechanical strength such as breaking strength, coating film uniformity and adhesion, and excellent coating property and stability over time, it contains 15 to 60% by mass of a wax component containing at least stearyl-modified acrylate silicone, and a pigment and extender 25 to 40% by mass. A solid stick cosmetic characterized by containing is mentioned (see Patent Document 1).

[0004] However, the skin around the eyes such as the eyelids is particularly softer than other parts, and it is desired that it can be drawn with a light force. Therefore, the solid stick cosmetic of Patent Document 1 has been required to be further improved in smooth coating property while maintaining moldability and mechanical strength. Also, while being excellent in color development regardless of the underlying skin color, a solid stick cosmetic that does not easily break, is not powdery, and smoothly spreads and extends has been required.

[0005] Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2015-34145

[0006] The technology of the present disclosure aims to solve the above problems and current situations of the prior art, and obtains a solid stick cosmetic that has a smooth and soft application feeling while having high hardness and being difficult to break. Furthermore, it obtains a solid stick cosmetic that has excellent color development regardless of the underlying skin color and excellent makeup retention.

[0007] As a result of intensive research in view of the above conventional problems and the like, the present inventor has found that by suitably combining specific wax components, oil components, film-forming agents, high-viscosity semi-solid lubricants, and pigments within specific ranges of each content, the solid stick cosmetic of the above object can be obtained, and has completed the technology of the present disclosure.

[0008] In other words, the technology of this disclosure is as follows: a solid bar-shaped cosmetic comprising at least a low-polarity fractionated carnauba wax, an oil component, a film-forming agent, a high-viscosity semi-solid lubricant, and a pigment.

[0009] According to the technology disclosed herein, a solid rod-shaped cosmetic product can be obtained that has a smooth and soft application feel while being highly hard and resistant to breakage. Furthermore, a solid rod-shaped cosmetic product can be obtained that has excellent color development regardless of the underlying skin tone and excellent makeup longevity.

[0010] 《Solid Bar-Shaped Cosmetic Composition》 The solid bar-shaped cosmetic composition of the technology of this disclosure is characterized by comprising at least a low-polarity fractionated carnauba wax, an oil component, a film-forming agent, a high-viscosity semi-solid lubricant, and a pigment.

[0011] The following describes each component of the technology disclosed herein. Note that "mass %" may be abbreviated as "%" in this document. Also, "at least one" in this document refers to each individual component, or a mixture of two or more components. Furthermore, unless otherwise specified, the numerical ranges listed are preferred in the order they appear.

[0012] <Low-Polarity Fractionated Carnauba Wax> The low-polarity fractionated carnauba wax used in the technology of this disclosure is a natural carnauba wax obtained from the leaves of the Brazilian wax palm (also known as carnauba palm, scientific name Copernicia prunifera), containing 64% or more low-polarity components. Ordinary carnauba wax is mainly a mixture of monoesters having hydrocarbon groups with approximately 48 to 64 carbon atoms. Of these esters, 37 to 47% are high-polarity ester components having polar substituents such as hydroxyl groups on the carbon chain, and 53 to 63% are low-polarity ester components without polar substituents. (Kenzo Fusegawa (1993), Revised Properties and Applications of Waxes, 2nd Edition, Japan, Tokyo, Koshobo). The low-polarity fractionated carnauba wax in the technology disclosed herein is obtained by removing the high-polarity component from ordinary carnauba wax and increasing the low-polarity component to 64% or more by a commonly used method such as recrystallization, which involves selectively crystallizing and separating specific components by adjusting the temperature after dissolving the wax in a solvent.

[0013] Methods for obtaining low-polarity fractionated carnauba wax include commonly used methods such as recrystallization, in which the wax is dissolved in a solvent and then the temperature is adjusted to selectively crystallize and separate the characteristic components. For example, low-polarity fractionated carnauba wax can be obtained by dissolving carnauba wax in isododecane heated to 140°C, and then separating and recovering the precipitated crystals by filtration when the temperature of this solution is lowered to 50°C.

[0014] The fact that low-polarity fractionated carnauba wax contains 64% or more low-polarity components indicates, for example, a Raman spectrum with wavenumbers of 1600–1650 cm⁻¹. －１ The maximum peak intensity (A) in the range of 1280–1300 cm² －１ This can be confirmed by the ratio (A / B) of the maximum peak intensity (B) within the specified range being 0.55 or less. If A / B exceeds 0.55, the component has nearly the same polarity as the unfractionated component, and therefore, no effect such as intensity enhancement can be obtained by adding the component. This A / B ratio can be further increased (i.e., by increasing the proportion of the low-polarity fraction) by repeatedly performing the fractionation operation.

[0015] On the other hand, since carnauba wax is a natural product and a mixture of compounds with various structures, the lower limit of the A / B ratio of the low-polarity component obtained by fractionation is considered to be 0.2 or higher. Therefore, the preferred range for A / B is 0.2 or higher, 0.25 or higher, 0.3 or higher, or 0.35 or higher, and 0.55 or lower, 0.5 or lower, 0.45 or lower, or 0.4 or lower.

[0016] The following are the measurement conditions for determining the A / B ratio of low-polarity fractionated carnauba wax in Table 1 below. Measurement device: Bruker Ramantouch Lens magnification: 20x Laser output: 11.92 mW (1.148 kW / cm²) ２ Measurement mode: XY Averaging (AreaFlash) Measurement range: 415.5 μm × 286.7 μm Excitation wavelength: 785 nm Exposure time: 20 seconds Number of integrations: 3 Diffraction grating: 1200 gr / mm

[0017] Furthermore, the peak position of the obtained Raman spectrum changes depending on the chemical structure of the sample, and the peak intensity changes depending on the amount (concentration) of that chemical structure. Therefore, it is possible to quantify the polar structure of the fractionated wax by the peak position and intensity of the Raman spectrum. In this application, "A" above represents a linear hydrocarbon component and can be said to be a non-polar component. Also, "B" above represents a polar component. Therefore, the smaller A / B ratio, the lower the polarity, and the larger the ratio, the higher the polarity.

[0018] From the viewpoint of effectively solidifying the oil component and increasing the proportion of components other than the wax component, the proportion of low-polarity components contained in the low-polarity fractionated carnauba wax is preferably 65% ​​or more, 70% or more, 75% or more, 80% or more, 85% or more, or 90% or more, and more preferably 100%, relative to the total amount of low-polarity fractionated carnauba wax.

[0019] The melting point of low-polarity fractionated carnauba wax is not particularly limited, but from the viewpoint of increasing strength, it is preferably 65°C or higher, 70°C or higher, 75°C or higher, or 80°C or higher.

[0020] From the viewpoint of effectively solidifying the oil components and increasing the proportion of components other than the wax components, the content of low-polarity fractionated carnauba wax is preferably 30% or more, 40% or more, or 50% or more, and preferably 90% or less, 80% or less, or 75% or less, relative to the total amount of wax components. From the viewpoint of strength and applicability, the content of low-polarity fractionated carnauba wax is preferably 2% or more, 3% or more, or 4% or more, and preferably 13% or less, 10% or less, 9% or less, 8% or less, or 7% or less, relative to the total amount of solid bar-shaped cosmetic composition.

[0021] <Oil component> In the technology disclosed herein, the oil component is a liquid oil that is fluid at room temperature (25°C). For example, at least one of the following can be used: decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, methyl trimethicone, dimethicone, diisostearyl malate, triethylhexanoin, isostearic acid, neopentyl glycol diethylhexanoate, sunflower oil, castor oil, squalane, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, ethyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, diisobutyl adipate, diethylhexyl succinate, isostearyl pivalate, cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-hexyldecyl 2-ethylhexanoate, neopentyl glycol di-2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl isononanoate, or isotridecyl isononanoate. Among these, silicone-based oils are preferred from the viewpoint of applicability and drying properties. The total oil content is preferably 15% or more, 20% or more, 25% or more, or 30% or more, relative to the total amount of the solid bar-shaped cosmetic, and preferably 50% or less, 45% or less, 40% or less, or 35% or less, from the viewpoint of usability and providing a smooth application.

[0022] <Film-forming agent> The film-forming agent in the technology of this disclosure is a fixing resin component that is dissolved or dispersed in the oil component. Any agent used in cosmetics can be used without particular limitations. For example, at least one of the following can be used: trimethylsiloxysilicate, graft copolymer consisting of acrylic polymer and dimethylpolysiloxane, (acrylates / dimethicone) copolymer, copolymer in which a silicone group is introduced into polynorbornene, polymer in which a silicone group is introduced into pullulan, polypropylsilsesquioxane, acrylates copolymer, (acrylates / ethylhexyl acrylate) copolymer, gum arabic, dextrin isostearate, hydrogenated (styrene / isoprene) copolymer, (styrene / acrylates) copolymer, polyisobutene, polyvinyl alcohol, or polymethyl methacrylate. Among these, silicone-based film-forming agents having a siloxane structure are preferred from the viewpoint of film strength and applicability. From the viewpoint of film strength and applicability, the total content of the film-forming agent is preferably 5% or more, 10% or more, 15% or more, or 17% or more, relative to the total amount of the solid bar-shaped cosmetic composition, and preferably 30% or less, 25% or less, 23% or less, or 20% or less.

[0023] <High-Viscosity Semi-Solid Lubricants> In the technology of this disclosure, high-viscosity semi-solid lubricants are those that are paste-like or exhibit high viscosity at 25°C. Examples include at least one of the following: high-viscosity dimethyl silicone, aminopropyl dimethicone, dimethiconol, (acrylates / stearyl acrylate / dimethicone methacrylate) copolymer, dipentaerythrityl hexahydroxystearate, dipentaerythrityl pentaisostearate, dipentaerythrityl hexa(hydroxystearate / stearic acid / rosinic acid), dipentaerythrityl tetra(hydroxystearate / isostearate), polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate, etc. High viscosity refers to a viscosity of 10,000 mPa·s or more at 25°C as measured by a BM-type viscometer. In particular, (acrylates / stearyl acrylate / dimethicone methacrylate) copolymer is preferred from the viewpoint of exhibiting smooth application and excellent spreadability immediately after application. The content of the high-viscosity semi-solid lubricant is preferably 1% or more, 3% or more, 5% or more, 7% or more, or 10% or more, relative to the total amount of the solid bar-shaped cosmetic composition, and preferably 20% or less, 18% or less, 15% or less, or 13% or less.

[0024] <Pigments> The pigments used in the technology of this disclosure are not particularly limited as long as they are commonly used in solid bar-shaped cosmetics, and any of them can be used. For example, pigments such as titanium dioxide, iron black, carbon black, Prussian blue, ultramarine, Blue No. 1, red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide, cobalt oxide, fish scale foil, bismuth oxychloride, Blue No. 2, Blue No. 404, Red No. 201, Red No. 202, Red No. 220, Red No. 102, Red No. 104, Yellow No. 4, or Yellow No. 4 AL lake can be used, or at least one of the following luminous pigments: pearl pigment, aluminum powder pigment, metal or metal oxide coated glass flake, aluminum coated polyester film, etc. From the viewpoint of coloring power, strength, and applicability, the pigment content is preferably 5% or more, 10% or more, 20% or more, or 25% or more, and preferably 40% or less, 35% or less, or 30% or less, based on the total amount of the solid bar-shaped cosmetic. In particular, to obtain excellent color development regardless of the underlying skin tone, it is preferable to include opaque pigments such as titanium dioxide.

[0025] The solid bar-shaped cosmetic composition of the technology disclosed herein may contain a extender. The extender used in the solid bar-shaped cosmetic composition of the technology disclosed herein is not particularly limited as long as it is commonly used in solid bar-shaped cosmetic compositions, and any of them can be used. For example, white extenders such as boron nitride, kaolin, talc, mica, calcium carbonate, sericite, hydroxyapatite, halloysite, bentonite, smectite, or cellulose nanofibers can be used, and depending on the hue of the bar-shaped cosmetic composition, colored extenders can also be used, and of course mixtures of several of these can also be used. Particularly preferred are at least one of the following, based on their physical properties and shape: kaolin, talc, mica, sericite, zinc oxide, hydroxyapatite, or smectite.

[0026] The total content of powder components, including pigments and extenders, is preferably 10% or more, 15% or more, or 20% or more relative to the total amount of the solid rod-shaped cosmetic, and preferably 50% or less, 45% or less, 40% or less, 35% or less, or 30% or less, from the viewpoint of coloring power, strength, and applicability. If the total content of pigments and extenders is less than 10%, it becomes difficult for the solid rod-shaped cosmetic to maintain its shape as a core, while if it exceeds 50%, it becomes too hard to apply, which is undesirable.

[0027] <Other Waxes> The solid bar-shaped cosmetic composition of the technology disclosed herein may also contain other waxes. Other waxes are solid or semi-solid at room temperature and melt without decomposing when heated, becoming low viscosity. Examples include at least one of the following: synthetic waxes, ceresin wax, paraffin wax, candelilla wax, jojoba wax, fatty acid triglycerides, petrolatum, tri(behenic acid / isostearate / eicosanedioic acid) glyceryl, polyhydric alcohol esters, or rosin-modified resins, which are solid or semi-solid at 25°C. The synthetic wax in the technology disclosed herein is a hydrocarbon-based synthetic wax, and examples such as "hydrocarbon-based waxes obtained by the Fischer-Tropsch method or ethylene polymerization method" listed in the Japan Cosmetic Industry Association's "List of Cosmetic Ingredients" can be used. The melting point of the synthetic wax is preferably 80°C or higher, more preferably 90°C or higher. Examples of synthetic waxes include at least one homopolymer such as Fischer-Tropsch wax, polyethylene wax, or polypropylene wax, or copolymers such as (ethylene / propylene) copolymer wax. When synthetic wax is included, from the viewpoint of strength and applicability, its content is preferably 1% or more, 2% or more, 3% or more, 4% or more, or 5% or more, and preferably 13% or less, 10% or less, 9% or less, 8% or less, or 7% or less.

[0028] <Other Ingredients> In addition to the above-mentioned ingredients, the solid bar-shaped cosmetic composition of the technology disclosed herein may preferably contain optional ingredients commonly used in solid bar-shaped cosmetic compositions, such as surfactants, preservatives, antioxidants, UV absorbers, chelating agents, humectants, or antioxidants such as vitamin E (DL-α-tocopherol acetate), cosmetic ingredients, or fragrances, in appropriate amounts within a range that does not impair the effects of the technology disclosed herein.

[0029] 《Method for Manufacturing Solid Bar-Shaped Cosmetic Compositions》 The solid bar-shaped cosmetic composition of the technology disclosed herein can be manufactured by kneading at least low polarity fractionated carnauba wax, an oil component, a film-forming agent, a high viscosity semi-solid lubricant, and a pigment in predetermined amounts, and then molding this kneaded mixture by conventional methods or other means to produce a solid bar-shaped cosmetic composition of any shape and size, such as a rectangular parallelepiped, cylindrical, or prismatic shape.

[0030] Next, the technology of this disclosure will be described in more detail with reference to examples and comparative examples, but the technology of this disclosure is not limited to the following examples.

[0031] Preparation of Solid Rod-Shaped Cosmetics [Examples 1-10 and Comparative Examples 1-2] Solid rod-shaped cosmetics (composition unit: %, total amount 100%) with the formulations shown in Table 1 below were prepared by roll dispersion, dissolution and filling to obtain cylindrical solid rod-shaped cosmetics (diameter 2 mm, length 60 mm).

[0032] Each of the obtained solid rod-shaped cosmetic materials was evaluated for fracture strength, applicability, and color development using the evaluation methods described below. The results are shown in Tables 1 and 2 below.

[0033] 《Evaluation》 [Fracture Strength] Ten evaluation panelists applied the product to their palms and various parts of their bodies (eyelids, around the eyes, etc.). The number of panelists who felt the product was resistant to breakage was tallied, and this was used to evaluate the fracture strength of each solid rod-shaped cosmetic product. Specifically, the evaluation was conducted according to the following criteria: Evaluation Criteria: A: Very good (10 people felt it was resistant to breakage or chipping) B: Good (8-9 people felt it was resistant to breakage or chipping) C: Somewhat poor (6-7 people felt it was resistant to breakage or chipping) D: Poor (5 or fewer people felt it was resistant to breakage or chipping)

[0034] [Smoothness of Application] Ten evaluation panelists applied the product to their palms and various parts of their bodies (eyelids, around the eyes, etc.). The number of panelists who felt that the product applied smoothly without snagging was tallied, and this was used to evaluate the application of each solid bar-shaped cosmetic product. Specifically, the following evaluation criteria were used: Evaluation Criteria: A: Very good (10 people felt it applied smoothly) B: Good (8-9 people felt it applied smoothly) C: Somewhat poor (6-7 people felt it applied smoothly) D: Poor (5 or fewer people felt it applied smoothly)

[0035] [Color Development] Ten evaluation panelists applied the product to their palms and various parts of their bodies (eyelids, around the eyes, etc.). The number of panelists who felt the product had excellent color development was tallied, and this was used to evaluate the color development of each solid bar-shaped cosmetic product. Specifically, the evaluation was conducted according to the following criteria: Evaluation Criteria: A: Very good (10 people felt the product had excellent color development) B: Good (8-9 people felt the product had excellent color development) C: Somewhat poor (6-7 people felt the product had excellent color development) D: Poor (5 or fewer people felt the product had excellent color development)

[0036] [Makeup Longevity] Ten evaluation panelists applied the product to their palms and various parts of their bodies (eyelids, around the eyes, etc.). The number of panelists who felt the makeup had good longevity was tallied, and this was used to evaluate the makeup longevity of each solid stick-type cosmetic product. Specifically, the condition immediately after application and the condition 6 hours after going about daily life were compared and evaluated according to the following criteria: Evaluation Criteria: A: Very good (10 people felt the makeup had good longevity) B: Good (8-9 people felt the makeup had good longevity) C: Somewhat poor (6-7 people felt the makeup had good longevity) D: Poor (5 or fewer people felt the makeup had good longevity)

[0037]

[0038] *1 to *17 in Table 1 above are as follows: *1: TMF-1.5 (Shin-Etsu Chemical) *2: KF995 (Shin-Etsu Chemical) *3: T.I.O (Nisshin Oillio) *4: Neolight 100P (Higher Alcohol Industry) *5: Cosmoll 222 (Nisshin Oillio) *6: KF-7312T (Shin-Etsu Chemical) *7-1: Carnauba Wax TS1 (Nu Potentia Japan) *7-2: Carnauba Wax TS1 (Nu Potentia Japan) *7-3: Carnauba Wax TS1 (Nu Potentia Japan) *7-4: Carnauba Wax TS1 (Nu Potentia Japan) *8: Lip Wax A-4 (Nu Potentia Japan) *9-1: Carnauba Wax No. 1 (Nu Potentia Japan) *9-2: Carnauba Wax No. 1 (Nupotentia Japan) *9-3: Carnauba Wax No. 1 (Nupotentia Japan) *9-4: Carnauba Wax No. 1 (Nupotentia Japan) *10: Ceresin #810 (Nikko Rica) *11: KP-561 (Shin-Etsu Chemical) *12: Calcol 220-80 (Kao Chemical) *13: CR-50 (Takehara Chemical) *14: ABL-412HP (Titan Industry) *15: C38-7710 (SUN CHEMICAL) *16: Sericite FSE (Sanshin Mining) *17: KSP-100 (Shin-Etsu Chemical)

[0039] Furthermore, the A / B ratios measured under the aforementioned measurement conditions for the waxes used in 7-1, 7-2, 7-3, and 7-4, as well as 9-1, 9-2, 9-3, and 9-4, are shown in Table 2 below.

[0040]

[0041] As is clear from the results in Table 1 above, Examples 1 to 13, which contain low-polarity fractionated carnauba wax of 7-1, 7-2, 7-3, or 7-4 with an A / B value of 0.2 or more than 0.55, more specifically 0.35 or more than 0.50, as shown in Table 2 above, were found to be superior solid bar-shaped cosmetic compositions in terms of performance. Compared to Comparative Examples 1 to 5, which contain wax of 9-1, 9-2, 9-3, or 9-4 with an A / B value exceeding 0.50, none of the evaluations for fracture strength, applicability, color development, and cosmetic longevity received C or D ratings.

[0042] The solid bar-shaped cosmetic composition of the technology disclosed herein can be suitably used in eyeshadows, eyebrow products, eyeliners, lip liners, concealers, and the like.

Claims

1. A solid bar-shaped cosmetic composition comprising at least a low-polarity fractionated carnauba wax, an oil component, a film-forming agent, a high-viscosity semi-solid lubricant, and a pigment.

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