Oil dispersion composition comprising biopolymer complex

Abstract

The present invention relates to a dispersion composition comprising a continuous oily phase and a plurality of biopolymer complexes dispersed in the oily phase, wherein the biopolymer complex comprises: (a) at least one biopolymer; and (b) at least one lipophobe selected from sugar alcohols. The composition according to the present invention is very suitable for a variety of industries, such as cosmetic, pharmaceutical, and coating applications.

Description

[0001] DESCRIPTION

[0002] TITLE OF INVENTION

[0003] OIL DISPERSION COMPOSITION COMPRISING BIOPOLYMER COMPLEX

[0004] TECHNICAL FIELD

[0005] The present invention relates to an oil dispersion composition comprising at least one biopolymer complex, in particular, an oil dispersion composition comprising at least one biopolymer complex for cosmetic use. In addition, the present invention relates to a manufacturing method and cosmetic use of the same composition.

[0006] BACKGROUND ART

[0007] The formulation of environmentally-friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed considering environmental issues, is becoming a major goal in an effort to meet global challenges. It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions, preparation processes and ingredients to address these environmental concerns.

[0008] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, particularly by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a good index of naturalness and / or materials of natural origin and, more particularly, materials of plant origin while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.

[0009] In recent years, biopolymer complex particles with various functions have been developed. For example, WO 2021 / 249974 discloses a cross-linked polysaccharide particle comprising an amount of fucoidan and loaded by adsorption with an amount of a tissue-type plasminogen activator. In this invention, cross-linked polysaccharide particles were obtained and dispersed in an oily phase.

[0010] However, there can be a problem that biopolymer complexes undergo color change over time.

[0011] DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION

[0012] An objective of the present invention is to provide a dispersion composition comprising biopolymer complex particles dispersed in an oily phase, which can suppress coloration, in particular yellowing, over time.

[0013] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a dispersion composition comprising a continuous oily phase and a plurality of biopolymer complexes dispersed in the oily phase, wherein the biopolymer complex comprises:

[0014] (a) at least one biopolymer; and

[0015] (b) at least one lipophobe selected from sugar alcohols.

[0016] The (a) biopolymer may be selected from polyamino acids, cationic polysaccharides, and anionic polysaccharides. The (a) biopolymer may be selected from polylysine, collagen, gelatin, chitosan, xanthan gum, and hyaluronic acid and salts thereof, and combinations thereof.

[0017] The (b) lipophobe is selected from sugar alcohols derived from monosaccharides.

[0018] The (b) lipophobe is selected from erythritol, mannitol, arabitol, sorbitol, xylitol, and mixtures thereof.

[0019] The amount of the (a) biopolymer may be from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.075% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0020] The amount of the (b) lipophobe may be in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0021] The biopolymer complexes may be in the form of hydrogel particles or in the form of xerogel particles.

[0022] The oily phase may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 50% to 99% by weight, from 65% to 96% by weight, and more preferably from 80% to 93% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0023] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one acid having four or more acidic group.

[0024] The acid having four or more acidic group may be selected from phosphoric acids and carboxylic acids, preferably phosphoric acids.

[0025] The composition may be cosmetic composition, in particular a topical cosmetic composition for caring for and / or conditioning a keratin material, such as skin.

[0026] The composition may be a pharmaceutical composition, in particular a pharmaceutical composition for drug delivery, a coating composition, or an ink composition.

[0027] The present invention also relates to a process for preparing the dispersion composition according to the present invention, comprising the steps of:

[0028] (i) preparing an oily phase and an aqueous phase separately, wherein the aqueous phase comprises:

[0029] (a) at least one biopolymer; and

[0030] (b) at least one lipophobe selected from sugar alcohols; and

[0031] (ii) mixing the aqueous phase and the oily phase to obtain a mixture, and

[0032] (iii) emulsifying the mixture to obtain a dispersion composition including a continuous oily phase and a plurality of biopolymer complexes dispersed in the oily phases.

[0033] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and / or conditioning a keratin material, such as skin, comprising applying to the keratin material, the composition according to the present invention.

[0034] Another objective of the present invention is to provide a dispersion composition comprising biopolymer complex particles dispersed in an oily phase, which can suppress stickiness after application.

[0035] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a dispersion composition comprising a continuous oily phase and a plurality of biopolymer complexes dispersed in the oily phase, wherein the biopolymer complex comprises:

[0036] (a) at least two biopolymers comprising (a- 1 ) at least one cationic biopolymer and (a-2) at least one anionic biopolymer;

[0037] (c) at least one lipophobe selected from monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, and derivatives thereof; and

[0038] (d) at least one oil selected from ester oils and oils in the form of solid at room temperature (25°C).

[0039] The present invention also relates to a process for preparing the dispersion composition according to the present invention, comprising the steps of:

[0040] (i) preparing a W / O dispersion comprising the (a) at least one biopolymer selected from the (a-

[0041] 1) cationic biopolymers, the (c) at least one lipophobe selected from monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, and derivatives thereof, and the (d) oil selected from ester oils and oils in the form of solid at room temperature (25 °C),

[0042] (ii) preparing a W / O dispersion comprising the (a) at least one biopolymer selected from the (a-

[0043] 2) anionic biopolymers, the (c) at least one lipophobe selected from monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, and derivatives thereof, and the (d) oil selected from ester oils and oils in the form of solid at room temperature (25°C), and

[0044] (iii) mixing and emulsifying the two W / O dispersions prepared in each steps (i) and (ii) to prepare the dispersion composition.

[0045] BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION

[0046] After diligent research, the inventors have surprisingly discovered that biopolymer complex particles comprising (a) at least one biopolymer and (b) at least one lipophobe selected from sugar alcohols can provide dispersion composition comprising biopolymer complex particles dispersed in an oily phase which can suppress coloration over time.

[0047] Thus, the present invention relates to a dispersion composition comprising a continuous oily phase and a plurality of biopolymer complexes dispersed in the oily phase, wherein the biopolymer complex comprises:

[0048] (a) at least one biopolymer; and

[0049] (b) at least one lipophobe selected from sugar alcohols.

[0050] In another embodiment, the inventors have surprisingly discovered that biopolymer complex particles comprising (a) at least two biopolymers comprising (a-1) at least one cationic biopolymer and (a-2) at least one anionic biopolymer; (c) at least one lipophobe selected from monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, and derivatives thereof; and (d) at least one oil selected from ester oils and oils in the form of solid at room temperature (25 °C) can provide dispersion composition which can suppress stickiness and provide soother sensation after application, and thus completed the invention.

[0051] Hereinafter, the composition, preparation process, and cosmetic process according to the present invention will be explained in a more detailed manner. [Composition]

[0052] The dispersion composition according to the present invention includes a continuous oily phase and a plurality of biopolymer complexes dispersed in the oily phase, and the biopolymer complex comprises (a) at least one biopolymer and (b) at least one lipophobe selected from sugar alcohols.

[0053] The biopolymer complex can be in the form of a hydrogel particle or in the form of a xerogel particle. The biopolymer dispersed in an oily phase at a high concentration can be obtained in both forms of the biopolymer complex particles. Thus, the present application is intended to cover both the embodiments of the biopolymer complexes being hydrogel particles and xerogel particles.

[0054] When the biopolymer complexes form hydrogel particles, the dispersion composition according to the present invention can be in the form of a miniemulsion, in particular an inverse miniemulsion.

[0055] When the biopolymer complexes form xerogel particles, the dispersion composition according to the present invention can exhibit a transparent appearance which is preferred for a variety of applications, such as cosmetic, pharmaceutical, and coating applications.

[0056] The composition according to the present invention can be a cosmetic composition. The inventors of the present invention surprisingly discovered that the dispersion composition according to the present invention can suppress coloration over time, which is preferred for consumers. Thus, in one embodiment of the present invention, the composition according to the present invention is intended for topical application, especially to keratin materials, such as skin.

[0057] For the purposes of the present invention, “keratin materials” is intended to mean the skin and keratin fibers. The term “skin” used herein includes facial and / or bodily skin and the scalp. The term “keratin fiber” used herein includes eyelashes, eyebrows, and hair.

[0058] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the composition is intended for topical application to keratin materials such as the scalp, skin, and hair, in particular skin. In some embodiments, the composition may be a hair care and / or a scalp care and / or a skin care composition, and in particular a skin care composition.

[0059] Also, the inventors of the present invention surprisingly discovered that the dispersion composition of the present invention can exhibit a transparent appearance when the biopolymer complexes are in the form of xerogel particles. This property is very suitable for a variety of applications, such as cosmetic, pharmaceutical, and coating applications.

[0060] Also, since the composition according to the present invention has a unique form in which the dispersion includes biopolymer complex particles in the oily phase, and the composition can suppress coloration over time, the composition is useful in, for example, drug delivery in pharmaceutical applications and coating applications. Thus, the dispersion composition according to the present invention can be a pharmaceutical composition for drug delivery, a coating composition, or an ink composition.

[0061] The ingredients and forms of the composition will be described in a detailed manner below.

[0062] {Biopolymer complex} The oil dispersion composition according to the present invention comprises a plurality of biopolymer complexes dispersed in a continuous oily phase. The biopolymer complex comprises (a) at least one biopolymer and (b) at least one lipophobe selected from sugar alcohols.

[0063] In another embodiment, the biopolymer complex comprises (a) at least two biopolymers comprising (a-1) at least one cationic biopolymer and (a-2) at least one anionic biopolymer, and (c) at least one lipophobe selected from monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, and derivatives thereof.

[0064] The biopolymer complex can take the form of hydrogel particles or xerogel particles. The biopolymer dispersed in an oily phase at a high concentration can be obtained in each case in the form of biopolymer complex particles. Each case is described in detail below.

[0065] - Hydrogel Particles

[0066] When the biopolymer complexes form hydrogel particles, the dispersion composition according to the present invention can be in the form of an inverse miniemulsion.

[0067] The average particle size of the biopolymer complexes in the miniemulsion may be from 30 nm to 100 pm, preferably from 40 nm to 10 pm, and more preferably from 30 nm to 1 pm. The term “average particle size” used herein can represent a volume-average size mean diameter which is given by the statistical particle size distribution to half of the population, referred to as d50. The volume-average size mean diameter can be measured by, for example, a dynamic light scattering particle size distribution analyzer.

[0068] When the biopolymer complexes form hydrogel particles, the biopolymer complexes include a large amount of an aqueous medium, such as water. For example, the amount of the aqueous medium in the biopolymer complexes in the form of hydrogel particles may be more than 70% by weight, preferably 75% by weight or more, more preferably 80% by weight or more, and in particular 85% weight or less, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0069] The upper limit of the content of the aqueous medium in the hydrogel particles is not particularly limited, but in general, may be 95% by weight or less, and preferably 90% by weight less.

[0070] For the purpose of the present invention, the aqueous medium here means water and hydrophilic organic solvents, which are miscible with water. In particular, the aqueous medium in the present invention comprises water.

[0071] Thus, for the aqueous medium included in the hydrogel particles, mention can be made of water.

[0072] The water may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0073] The water may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 25% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably 15% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0074] The water may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 3% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0075] In another embodiment, the water may be present in the biopolymer complexes of hydrogel particles in an amount of 70% by weight or more, preferably 75% by weight or more, and more preferably 80% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0076] The water may be present in the biopolymer complexes of hydrogel particles in an amount of 99% by weight or less, preferably 96% by weight or less, and more preferably 93% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0077] The water may be present in biopolymer complexes of hydrogel particles in an amount ranging from 70% to 99% by weight, preferably from 75% to 96% by weight, and more preferably from 80% to 93% by weight, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0078] When biopolymer complexes form hydrogel particles including aqueous medium, the biopolymer complexes may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0079] When the biopolymer complexes form hydrogel particles, the biopolymer complexes may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 25% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably 15% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0080] When biopolymer complexes form hydrogel particles, the biopolymer complexes may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 3% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0081] - Xerogel Particles

[0082] When the biopolymer complexes form xerogel particles, the dispersion composition according to the present invention can exhibit a transparent appearance.

[0083] The average particle size of the biopolymer complexes in the form of xerogel particles may be from 1 nm to 500 nm, preferably from 2 nm to 250 nm, and more preferably from 3 nm to 50 nm. The particle size of the xerogel particles can be measured by commonly known methods in the art, for example, by a dynamic light scattering particle size distribution analyze or an image analysis using TEM. In one embodiment, the average particle size of the xerogel particles are determined by measuring particle diameter of the particles for, for example, 50 particles with TEM image analysis, and then calculating the average particle size.

[0084] In one embodiment, the dispersion composition comprising the xerogel particles of the biopolymer complexes exhibits a low turbidity of 70 NTU or less, preferably 60 NTU or less, and more preferably 50 NTU or less. The turbidity can be measured with, for example, a 2100Q (marked by Hach Company) having a round cell (25 mm in diameter and 60 mm height) and a tungsten filament lamp which can emit visible light (between 400 and 800 nm, preferably 400 to 500 nm). The measurement can be performed on the undiluted composition. The blank may be determined with distilled water or the oil used for the oily phase. When the biopolymer complexes form xerogel particles, the biopolymer complexes do not include a large amount of an aqueous medium, such as water. For example, the amount of the aqueous medium in the biopolymer complexes in the form of xerogel particles may be less than 70% by weight or less, preferably 50% by weight or less, more preferably 30% by weight or less, and in particular 10% weight or less, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes. In another embodiment, the biopolymer complexes are free of water.

[0085] In another embodiment of the present invention, when the biopolymer complexes form xerogel particles, the composition according to the present invention does not include an aqueous medium, such as water, in a large amount. For example, the amount of the aqueous medium in the composition may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, and more preferably 1 % by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes. In yet another embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is free of water or is an anhydrous composition when the biopolymer complexes are in the form of the xerogel particles.

[0086] When the biopolymer complexes form xerogel particles, the biopolymer complexes may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 0.25% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0087] When the biopolymer complexes form xerogel particles, the biopolymer complexes may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 8% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0088] When biopolymer complexes form xerogel particles, the biopolymer complexes may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.25% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0089] In the context of the present specification, any combinations of the upper limit values and the lower limit values above are available to represent the preferred range of the amount.

[0090] (Biopolymer)

[0091] The dispersed biopolymer complexes of the present invention comprise (a) at least one biopolymer. Two or more biopolymers may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of the (a) biopolymer or a combination of different types of the (a) biopolymers may be used in combination.

[0092] The term “biopolymer” here is intended to mean a polymer that can be produced by a living organism or a derivative thereof. The biopolymer may be synthetically obtained (e.g., through laboratory synthesis) and / or obtained and / or derived from nature (e.g., from a living or previously living organism). For example, the biopolymer of the present invention may be a derivative of a polymer produced by a living organism, the derivative resulting from a synthetic method used to obtain or isolate the biopolymer from nature.

[0093] The (a) biopolymer of the present invention may be water-soluble. For the purpose of the present invention, the term “water-soluble” here means that a substance is soluble in water at a concentration of at least 1% by weight, for example, at least 5% or 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the water at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (105Pa).

[0094] The molecular weight of the (a) biopolymer may range from 1,000 to 2,000,000, preferably from 2,000 to 1,000,000, more preferably from 3,000 to 500,000, and even more preferably from 5,000 to 300,000. Unless otherwise defined in the description, “molecular weight” means a number average molecular weight. The molecular weight can be measured or determined by a gel permeation chromatography, for example, in accordance with ASTM D5296-19.

[0095] The (a) biopolymer may be a homopolymer or a copolymer. The term “copolymer” here is understood to mean both copolymers obtained from two kinds of monomers and those obtained from more than two kinds of monomers, such as terpolymers obtained from three kinds of monomers.

[0096] The (a) biopolymer may include (a-1) cationic biopolymers; (a-2) anionic biopolymers, and mixtures thereof, preferably the (a) biopolymer is selected from comprises (a-1) cationic biopolymers, (a-2) anionic biopolymers, and mixtures thereof.

[0097] The (a) biopolymer includes, but is not limited to, proteins or polyamino acids, and polysaccharides, and preferably polysaccharides.

[0098] As the proteins or polyamino acids, mention can be made of collagen, gelatin, wheat protein, conchiolin protein, soy protein, polylysine, and the like.

[0099] Polylysine is well known and is a polyamine. Polylysine can be a natural homopolymer of L- lysine that can be produced by bacterial fermentation. For example, polylysine can be s-Poly-L- lysine, typically used as a natural preservative in food products. Polylysine is a polyelectrolyte which is soluble in polar solvents such as water. Polylysine is commercially available in various forms, such as poly D-lysine and poly L-lysine. Polylysine can be in salt and / or solution form.

[0100] The polysaccharide may be selected from cationic polysaccharides, anionic polysaccharides, nonionic polysaccharides, and combinations thereof. Preferably, the polysaccharide is chosen from ionic polysaccharides cationic and anionic polysaccharides.

[0101] As the (a-1) cationic biopolymer, mention can be made of cationic polysaccharides, and cationic polypeptides, such as poly-lysine and poly-arginine.

[0102] As the (a-2) anionic biopolymer, mention can be made of anionic polysaccharides and anionic polypeptides.

[0103] - Cationic polysaccharide

[0104] The cationic polysaccharide corresponds to the (a-1) cationic biopolymers.

[0105] The cationic polysaccharide has a positive charge density. The charge density of the cationic polysaccharide may be from 0.01 meq / g to 20 meq / g, preferably from 0.05 tol 5 meq / g, and more preferably from 0.1 to 10 meq / g.

[0106] The cationic polysaccharide may have at least one positively chargeable and / or positively charged moiety selected from the group consisting of a primary, a secondary or tertiary amino group, a quaternary ammonium group, a guanidine group, a biguanide group, an imidazole group, an imino group, and a pyridyl group. The term (primary) “amino group” here means the group-NFb.

[0107] It is preferable that the cationic polysaccharide have at least one quaternary ammonium group, preferably a quaternary trialkyl ammonium group, and more preferably a quaternary trimethyl ammonium group.

[0108] The quaternary ammonium group may be present in a quaternary ammonium group-containing group which may be represented by the following chemical formula (I): wherein each of Ri and R2 denotes a C1-3 alkyl group, preferably a methyl or ethyl group, and more preferably a methyl group,

[0109] R3 denotes a C1-24 alkyl group, preferably a methyl or ethyl group, and more preferably methyl group,

[0110] X- denotes an anion, preferably a halide, and more preferably a chloride, n denotes an integer from 0-30, preferably 0-10, and more preferably 0, and R4 denotes a CM alkylene group, preferably an ethylene or propylene group.

[0111] The leftmost ether bond (-O-) in the above chemical formula (I) can attach to the sugar ring of the polysaccharide.

[0112] It is preferable that the quaternary ammonium group-containing group be -O-CH2-CH(OH)-CH2- N+(CH3)3.

[0113] It may be preferable that the cationic polysaccharide be selected from cationic cellulose polymers.

[0114] According to the present invention, a "cationic cellulose polymer" denotes any non-siliconized (comprising no silicon atoms) cellulose polymer containing cationic groups and / or groups ionizable into cationic groups, and preferably not containing anionic groups and / or groups ionizable into anionic groups.

[0115] The term "cellulose" polymer denotes according to the invention any polysaccharide compound having in the structure thereof at least 20 glucose residue chains joined by P-1,4 bonds. The cellulose polymer can be associative, i.e., having in the structure thereof at least one C8-C30 fatty chain.

[0116] Non-limiting examples of the cationic cellulose polymers are as follows.

[0117] (1) Cationic cellulose polymers such as cellulose ether derivatives comprising one or more quaternary ammonium groups described, for example, in French Patent No. 1 492 597, such as the polymers sold under the names “JR” (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or “LR” (LR 400, LR 30M) by the company Dow Chemical. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.

[0118] (2) Cationic cellulose polymers such as cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with at least one water-soluble monomer of quaternary ammonium, and described, for example, in U.S. Pat. No. 4,131,576, such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for instance, hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl-, and hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted, for example, with at least one chosen from methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, and dimethyldiallylammonium. Commercial products corresponding to these polymers include, for example, the products sold under the names “Celquat® L 200” and “Celquat® H 100” by the company Akzo Novel.

[0119] (3) Cationic cellulose polymers having at least one quaternary ammonium group comprising at least one fatty chain.

[0120] The fatty chain of the quatemized celluloses modified by groups including at least one linear fatty chain may be linear alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl, linear alkylaryl, preferably linear alkyl, these groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, particularly 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 10 to 24, or 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.

[0121] Preferably, mention can be made of quatemized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups including at least one linear fatty chain, such as linear alkyl, linear arylalkyl, linear alkylaryl, preferably linear alkyl, groups, these groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, particularly 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 10 to 24, or 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.

[0122] Preferably, mention can be made of hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (lb): wherein:

[0123] - R represents an ammonium group RaRbRcN+-, Q- wherein Ra, Rb, Rc, identical or different represent a hydrogen atom or linear, C1-C30, alkyl, preferably an alkyl and Q- represents an anionic counterion such as a halide such as chloride or bromide;

[0124] - R’ represents an ammonium group R’aR’bR’cN+-, Q’- wherein R’a, R’b, R’c, identical or different represent a hydrogen atom or linear, C1-C30, alkyl, preferably an alkyl and Q’- represents an anionic counterion such as a halide such as chloride or bromide; preferably an alkyl; it being understood that at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R’a, R’b, R’c represents a linear, CS-CJO, alkyl;

[0125] - n, x and y, identical or different, represent an integer between 1 and 10000.

[0126] Preferably, in formula (lb), at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R’a, R’b, R’c represents a linear C8-C30 alkyl; preferably C10-C24, or C10-C14; mention can particularly be made of the dodecyl radical (C12). Preferably, the or the other radicals represent a linear C1-C4 alkyl, particularly methyl.

[0127] Preferably, in formula (lb), only one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R’a, R’b, R’c represents a linear C8-C30 alkyl; preferably C10-C24, or C10-C14; mention can particularly be made of the dodecyl radical (C12). Preferably, all the other radicals represent a linear C1-C4 alkyl, particularly methyl.

[0128] More preferably, R can be a group chosen from -N+(CH3)3, Q” and -N+(Ci2H25)(CH3)2, Q”, preferably a group -N+(CH3)3, Q”.

[0129] More preferably, R’ can be a group -N+(Ci2H25)(CH3)2, Q”.

[0130] The nitrogen percentage can vary from 0.1 to 10% by weight with respect to the total polymer weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight and more preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight.

[0131] Mention can particularly be made of polymers having the INCI names:

[0132] - Polyquatemium-24, such as the product QUATRISOFT LM 200®, marketed by AMERCHOL / DOW CHEMICAL;

[0133] - PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Cocodimonium Chloride, such as the product CRODACEL QM®;

[0134] - PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Lauryldimonium Chloride (C12 alkyl), such as the product CRODACEL QL® and

[0135] - PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Stearyldimonium Chloride (Ci8 alkyl) such as the product CRODACEL QS®, marketed by CRODA.

[0136] Mention can also be made of hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (lb) wherein R represents trimethylammonium halide and R’ represents dimethyldodecylammonium halide, preferably R represents trimethylammonium chloride C1',(CH3)3N+- and R’ represents dimethyldodecylammonium chloride Cl_,(CH3)2(Ci2H25)N+-. This type of polymer is known under the INCI name Polyquatemium-67; as commercial products, mention can be made of SOFTCAT POLYMER SL® polymers such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30, SL-5 and SX-1300X from AMERCHOL / DOW CHEMICAL.

[0137] More particularly, the cationic cellulose polymer is chosen from hydroxyethyl celluloses having reacted with a trimethyl ammonium epoxide and a lauryl dimethyl ammonium epoxide (INCI name POLY QUATERNIUM-67). It is preferably marketed under the name Softcat Polymer SL- 100 or Softcat Polymer SX-1300X by Amerchol.

[0138] It may also be preferable that the cationic polysaccharide be selected from cationic starches.

[0139] As examples of the cationic starches, mention may be made of starches modified with a 2,3- epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (e.g. chloride), such as the product known as starch hydroxypropyltrhnonium chloride according to the INCI nomenclature and sold under the name SENSOMER Cl-50 from Ondeo or Pencare™ DP 1015 from Ingredion.

[0140] It may also be preferable that the cationic polysaccharide be selected from cationic gums, in particular cationic galactomannan gums.

[0141] The term "cationic galactomannan gum" denotes any galactomannan gum containing cationic groups and / or groups ionizable into cationic groups.

[0142] Galactomannans are polysaccharides essentially composed of galactose and mannose units, wherein the mannose units are bound by a 1-4-glycoside bond and galactose branching takes place by means of a 1 -6 bridge to the mannose units. Each ring of the galactose or mannose units (or sugar units) carries three free hydroxyl groups available for the chemical reaction.

[0143] Galactomannans are generally found in the endosperm of the grains of legumes such as guar or carob.

[0144] The preferred cationic groups are chosen from those including primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups.

[0145] The galactomannan groups suitable for use according to the present invention are for example gums including trialkyl (C1-C4) ammonium cationic groups. Preferably, 2% to 30% in number of the hydroxyl functions of these gums carry trialkylammonium cationic groups.

[0146] Among these trialkylammonium groups, mention can very particularly be made of trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups.

[0147] Even more preferably, these groups represent from 5% to 20% by weight of the total weight of the modified galactomannan gum.

[0148] According to the invention, the cationic galactomannan gum is preferably a guar gum including hydroxypropyl trialkylammonium groups, more preferably a guar gum including hydroxypropyl trimethylammonium groups, i.e., a guar gum modified for example with 2,3 -epoxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride.

[0149] The gums may be, for example, selected from the group consisting of cassia gum, karaya gum, konjac gum, gum tragacanth, tara gum, and acacia gum.

[0150] These galactomannan gums in particular from guar modified by cationic groups are products already known per se and are for example described in the patents US 3 589 578 and US 4 031 307.

[0151] Examples of cationic gums include cationic polygalactomannan derivatives such as guar gum derivatives and cassia gum derivatives. Such products are moreover sold particularly under the trade names Jaguar EXCEL, Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 and Jaguar C162 (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by Rhodia, under the name Amilan® Guar (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by Degussa, and under the name N-Hance® 3000 (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by Aquaion. Hydroxypropyl Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, which is hydroxypropyl derivative of guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, is commercially available under the Jaguar™ trade name series from Rhodia Inc. Cassia Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride is commercially available under the Sensomer™ CT-250 and Sensomer™ CT-400 trademarks from Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc or the ClearHance™ from Ashland Inc.

[0152] It is also preferable that the cationic polysaccharide be selected from polyamines such as chitosan.

[0153] In one preferred embodiment, the cationic polysaccharide is selected from cationic gums, more preferably cationic galactomannan gums, in particular cationic polygalactomannan derivatives such as guar gum derivatives.

[0154] It may be preferable that the cationic polysaccharide be selected from the group consisting of polyquatemium-4, polyquatemium-10, polyquatemium-24, polyquatemium-67, starch hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, cassia hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, chitosan, and a mixture thereof, and more preferably guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, and a mixture thereof.

[0155] - Anionic polysaccharide

[0156] The anionic polysaccharide corresponds to the (a-2) anionic biopolymers.

[0157] The anionic polysaccharide can be water-soluble and can bear a negative charge in water.

[0158] The anionic polysaccharide may have at least one negatively chargeable and / or negatively charged moiety selected from the group consisting of carboxylate, e.g. carboxyalkyl, sulfate, sulfonate, e.g. sulfoalkyl, phosphate and phosphonate groups. The alkyl groups in these moieties may be CM alkyl group, such as methyl, ethyl, and propyl.

[0159] It is preferable that the anionic polysaccharides have at least one carboxylate group, e.g. a carboxyalkyl group. The counter-ion of the anionic group is usually an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, suitably sodium, potassium, magnesium, or calcium. The anionic groups can also exist in their acid form, whereby the corresponding anionic groups are formed in an aqueous environment.

[0160] The anionic polysaccharides may comprise at least one anionic group derived from carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, sulfenic acid, phosphoric acid, phosphonic acid or pyruvic acid. Preferably, the anionic group is a carboxylic acid group. The anionic group may also be in the form of an acid salt, especially a sodium, calcium, lithium or potassium salt.

[0161] The anionic polysaccharide may be selected from natural anionic polysaccharides and synthetic anionic polysaccharides.

[0162] Examples of suitable natural anionic polysaccharides of the invention include polysaccharides comprising at least one glucuronic acid as a constituent, such as xanthan gum, gellan gum, gum arabic, alginic acid or alginates, hyaluronic acid and salts thereof; polysaccharides comprising at least one galacturonic acid as a constituent, such as pectins; sulfated polysaccharides, such as carrageenan, ulvan, fucoidan, chondroitin sulfates, dermatan sulfates; agar-agar, and combinations thereof.

[0163] Xanthan is a heteropolysaccharide produced on an industrial scale by the aerobic fermentation of the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris. Its structure is composed of a main chain of p-D-glucoses connected in (1,4) manner, similar to cellulose. One glucose molecule out of two bears a trisaccharide side chain composed of an a-D-mannose, of a 0-D-glucuronic acid and of a terminal 0-D-mannose. The internal mannose residue is generally acetylated on carbon 6.

[0164] Approximately 30% of the terminal mannose residues bear a pyruvate group linked in chelated form between carbons 4 and 6. The glucuronic acids and the charged pyruvic acids are ionizable and thus responsible for the anionic nature of xanthan (negative charge down to pH 1). The content of the pyruvate and acetate residues varies according to the bacterial strain, the fermentation process, the post- fermentation conditions and the purification stages.

[0165] Xanthan gums are represented, for example, by the products sold under the name Rhodicare by the company Rhodia Chimie, under the name Satiaxane™ by the company Cargill Texturizing Solutions (for the food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries), under the name Novaxan™ by the company ADM and under the names Kelzan® and Keltrol® by the company CP-Kelco.

[0166] Gellan gum is an anionic linear heteropolysaccharide based on oligosaccharide units composed of 4 saccharides (tetrasaccharide). D-Glucose, L-rhamnose and D-glucuronic acid in 2 / 1 / 1 proportions are present in gellan gum in the form of monomer elements. It is sold, for example, under the name Kelcogel CG LA by the company CP Kelco.

[0167] Gum arabic is a highly branched acidic polysaccharide which is present in the form of mixtures of potassium, magnesium and calcium salts. The monomer elements of the free acid (arabic acid) are D-galactose, L-arabinose, L-rhamnose and D-glucuronic acid.

[0168] Alginic acid, a natural substance derived from brown algae or certain bacteria, is a polyuronic acid composed of two uronic acids linked by 1,4-glycosidic bonds: 0-D- mannuronic (M) acid and a-L- glucuronic (G) acid. Alginic acid is capable of forming water-soluble salts (alginates) with alkali metals such as sodium, potassium or lithium, substituted cations of lower amines and of ammonium such as methylamine, ethanolamine, diethanolamine or triethanolamine.

[0169] Hyaluronic acid can be represented by the following chemical formula.

[0170] In the context of the present invention, the term "hyaluronic acid" covers in particular the basic unit of hyaluronic acid of formula:

[0171] This is the smallest fraction of hyaluronic acid comprising a disaccharide dimer, namely D- glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine.

[0172] The term "hyaluronic acid and derivatives thereof' also comprises, in the context of the present invention, the linear polymer comprising the polymeric unit described above, linked together in the chain via alternating 3(1,4) and 3(1,3) glycosidic linkages, having a molecular weight (MW) that can range between 380 and 1,000,000 daltons. This molecular weight depends in large part on the source from which the hyaluronic acid is obtained and / or on the preparation methods.

[0173] The term "hyaluronic acid and derivatives thereof' also comprises, in the context of the present invention, hyaluronic acid salts. As the salts, mention may be made of alkaline metal salts such as sodium salts and potassium salts, alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salts, ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof. In one preferred embodiment, the hyaluronic acid derivative is sodium hyaluronate.

[0174] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the hyaluronic acid fractions suitable for the use covered by the present invention have a molecular weight of between 50,000 and 5,000,000, in particular between 100,000 and 5,000,000, especially between 400,000 and 5,000,000 Da. In this case, the term used is high-molecular- weight hyaluronic acid.

[0175] Alternatively, the hyaluronic acid fractions that may also be suitable for the use covered by the present invention have a molecular weight of between 50,000 and 400,000 Da. In this case, the term used is intermediate-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid.

[0176] Alternatively, the hyaluronic acid fractions that may be suitable for the use covered by the present invention have a molecular weight of less than 50,000 Da. In this case, the term used is low- molecular-weight hyaluronic acid.

[0177] Pectins are linear polymers of a-D-galacturonic acid (at least 65%) linked in positions 1 and 4, with a certain proportion of carboxylic groups esterified with a methanol group. About 20% of the sugars constituting the pectin molecule are neutral sugars (L- rhamnose, D-glucose, D- galactose, L-arabinose, D-xylose). The L-rhamnose residues are present in all pectins, integrated into the main chain in positions 1 ,2. The uronic acid molecules bear carboxyl functions. This function gives the pectins the capacity for exchanging ions, when they are in COO ' form.

[0178] Bivalent ions (in particular calcium) have the capacity of forming ionic bridges between two carboxyl groups of two different pectin molecules.

[0179] Carrageenans are anionic polysaccharides constituting the cell walls of various red algae (Rhodophyceae) belonging to the Gigartinaceae, Hypneaceae, Furcellariaceae and Polyideaceae families. They are generally obtained by hot aqueous extraction from natural strains of the said algae. These linear polymers, formed by disaccharide units, are composed of two D- galactopyranose units alternately linked via a(l,3) and B(l,4) bonds. These are highly sulfated polysaccharides (20-50%) and the a-D-galactopyranosyl residues may be in 3,6-anhydro form. According to the number and position of the ester sulfate groups on the repeat disaccharide of the molecule, several types of carrageenan are distinguished, namely: kappa-carrageenans, which bear one ester sulfate group, iota-carrageenans which bear two ester sulfate groups, and lambda- carrageenans which bear three ester sulfate groups. Carrageenans are composed essentially of potassium, sodium, magnesium, triethanolamine and / or calcium salts and of ester sulfates of polysaccharides.

[0180] Agar-agar is formed from a polymer group in which the base backbone is a P( 1,3) D- galactopyranose and a(l,4) L 3-6 anhydrogalactose chain, these units repeating regularly and alternately. The differences within the agar family are due to the presence or absence of methyl or carboxyethyl solvated groups. These hybrid structures are generally present in variable percentages, depending on the species of algae and the season of harvest.

[0181] In one preferred embodiment, the anionic polysaccharide is selected from polysaccharides comprising at least one glucuronic acid as a constituent, such as xanthan gum, gellan gum, gum arabic, alginic acid or alginates, and hyaluronic acid, in particular xanthan gum.

[0182] Examples of suitable synthetic anionic polysaccharides include anionic cellulose derivatives. Anionic cellulose derivatives may include those modified with carboxyalkyl groups, in particular Ci -4 carboxyalkyl group, such as carboxymethyl group, carboxyethyl group, carboxypropyl group, and sulfoalkyl group, in particular CM sulfoalkyl group, such as sulfomethyl group. As the anionic cellulose derivatives, mention can be made of carboxymethyl cellulose, carboxyethyl cellulose, carboxy-propyl cellulose, sulfoethyl carboxymethyl cellulose, carboxymethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose ("CM-HEC"), and carboxymethyl cellulose.

[0183] The anionic polysaccharide may be preferably selected from polysaccharides comprising at least one glucuronic acid as a constituent, such as xanthan gum, gellan gum, gum arabic, alginic acid or alginates, hyaluronic acid and salts thereof, more preferably xanthan gum and hyaluronic acid and salts thereof, and combinations thereof.

[0184] - Nonionic polysaccharide

[0185] The nonionic polysaccharide may be chosen from those described, for example, in "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology", Kirk-Othmer, Third Edition, 1982, volume 3, pp. 896-900, and volume 15, pp. 439-458, in "Polymers in Nature" by E. A. MacGregor and C. T. Greenwood, published by John Wiley & Sons, Chapter 6, pp. 240-328,1980, and in "Industrial Gums-Polysaccharides and their Derivatives", edited by Roy L. Whistler, Second Edition, published by Academic Press Inc., the content of these three publications being entirely incorporated by reference.

[0186] Specifically, the nonionic polysaccharide may be chosen, for example, from glucans, modified and unmodified starches (such as those derived, for example, from cereals, for instance wheat, com or rice, from vegetables, for instance yellow pea, and tubers, for instance potato or cassaya), amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, dextrans, celluloses and derivatives thereof (methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethyl hydroxyethylcellu loses, and carboxymethylcelluloses), mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, chitin, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, arabinogalactans, gum tragacanths, ghatti gums, karaya gums, locust bean gums or carob gums, galactomannans, such as guar gums, and nonionic derivatives thereof (e.g., hydroxypropyl guar), and mixtures thereof, which are different from the cationic polysaccharide and the anionic polysaccharide as explained above.

[0187] Among the starches that may be used, mention may be made, for example, of macromolecules in the form of polymers comprising elemental moieties that are anhydroglucose units. The number of these moieties and their assembly make it possible to distinguish between amylose (linear polymer) and amylopectin (branched polymer). The relative proportions of amylose and of amylopectin, and also their degree of polymerization, can vary as a function of the botanical origin of the starches.

[0188] The botanical origin of the starch molecules used may be cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches can be, for example, chosen from com starch, rice starch, cassaya starch, tapioca starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch and pea starch.

[0189] Starches are generally in the form of a white powder which is insoluble in cold water and which has an elementary particle size ranging from 3 to 100 microns.

[0190] The starches may optionally be Ci-Ce hydroxyalkylated or Ci-Ce acylated (such as acetylated). The starches may also have undergone heat treatments.

[0191] The guar gums may be modified or unmodified.

[0192] The modified nonionic guar gums are, for example, modified with Ci-Ce hydroxyalkyl groups.

[0193] Among hydroxyalkyl groups, mention may be made, for example, of hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

[0194] These guar gums are well known in the state of the art and can be prepared, for example, by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, such aspropylene oxides, with guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.

[0195] The degree of hydroxyalkylation, which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum, may, for example, range from 0.4 to 1.2. Such nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP-8 COS, Jaguar HP-60, Jaguar HP- 120, and Jaguar HP- 120 by the company Solvay.

[0196] Among the celluloses that are used are, for example, hydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcelluloses. Mention may be made of the products sold under the names Klucel EF, Klucel H, Klucel MF and Klucel G by the company Ashland.

[0197] Alternatively, as the hydrophilic nonionic polysaccharide thickener, polysaccharides derived from microorganisms may also preferably be used.

[0198] The polysaccharide derived from microorganisms means a polysaccharide produced by microorganisms such as germs or bacteria.

[0199] The polysaccharide derived from microorganisms is not a polysaccharide derived from plants. Thus, it may be preferable that the polysaccharide derived from microorganisms is not based on cellulose.

[0200] As examples of the polysaccharide derived from microorganisms, mention may be made of curdlan, Jellan gum, dextran, pullulan, sclerotium gum, and mixtures thereof.

[0201] In one preferred embodiment of the present invention, the (a) biopolymer is selected from polyamino acids, such as collagen, gelatin, and polylysine; and polysaccharides, preferably ionic polysaccharides, i.e., cationic polysaccharides and anionic polysaccharides, more preferably polyamines and polysaccharides comprising at least one glucuronic acid as a constituent, and even more preferably chitosan, xanthan gum, and hyaluronic acid and salts thereof, and combinations thereof.

[0202] The (a) biopolymer(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 0.05% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0203] The (a) biopolymer(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 7% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0204] The (a) biopolymer(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.075% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0205] In another embodiment, the (a) biopolymer(s) may be present in the biopolymer complexes of hydrogel particles in an amount of 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.75% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0206] The (a) biopolymer(s) may be present in the biopolymer complexes of hydrogel particles in an amount of 30% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0207] The (a) biopolymer(s) may be present in biopolymer complexes of hydrogel particles in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.75% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0208] In another embodiment, the (a) biopolymer(s) may be present in the biopolymer complexes of xerogel particles in an amount of 10% by weight or more, preferably 20% by weight or more, and more preferably 30% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0209] The (a) biopolymer(s) may be present in the biopolymer complexes of xerogel particles in an amount of 70% by weight or less, preferably 60% by weight or less, and more preferably 50% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0210] The (a) biopolymer(s) may be present in biopolymer complexes of xerogel particles in an amount ranging from 10% to 70% by weight, preferably from 20% to 60% by weight, and more preferably from 30% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0211] In another embodiment, when the (a) biopolymer comprises the (a-1) cationic biopolymer and the (a-2) anionic biopolymer in combination, the (a-1) cationic biopolymer(s) and the (a-2) anionic biopolymer(s) may be each present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.02% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.03% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition, respectively.

[0212] When the (a) biopolymer comprises the (a-1) cationic biopolymer and the (a-2) anionic biopolymer in combination, the (a-1) cationic biopolymer(s) and the (a-2) anionic biopolymer(s) may be each present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0213] When the (a) biopolymer comprises the (a-1) cationic biopolymer and the (a-2) anionic biopolymer in combination, the (a-1) cationic biopolymer(s) and the (a-2) anionic biopolymer(s) may be each present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.02% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.03% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0214] In another embodiment, when the (a) biopolymer comprises the (a-1) cationic biopolymer and the (a-2) anionic biopolymer in combination, the (a-1) cationic biopolymer(s) and the (a-2) anionic biopolymer(s) may be each present in the biopolymer complexes of hydrogel particles in an amount of 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.2% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0215] When the (a) biopolymer comprises the (a-1) cationic biopolymer and the (a-2) anionic biopolymer in combination, the (a-1) cationic biopolymer(s) and the (a-2) anionic biopolymer(s) may be each present in the biopolymer complexes of hydrogel particles in an amount of 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes. When the (a) biopolymer comprises the (a-1) cationic biopolymer and the (a-2) anionic biopolymer in combination, the (a-1) cationic biopolymer(s) and the (a-2) anionic biopolymer(s) may be each present in biopolymer complexes of hydrogel particles in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.3% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0216] In another embodiment, when the (a) biopolymer comprises the (a-1) cationic biopolymer and the (a-2) anionic biopolymer in combination, the (a-1) cationic biopolymer(s) and the (a-2) anionic biopolymer(s) may be each present in the biopolymer complexes of xerogel particles in an amount of 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0217] When the (a) biopolymer comprises the (a-1) cationic biopolymer and the (a-2) anionic biopolymer in combination, the (a-1) cationic biopolymer(s) and the (a-2) anionic biopolymer(s) may be each present in the biopolymer complexes of xerogel particles in an amount of 40% by weight or less, preferably 30% by weight or less, and more preferably 20% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0218] When the (a) biopolymer comprises the (a-1) cationic biopolymer and the (a-2) anionic biopolymer in combination, the (a-1) cationic biopolymer(s) and the (a-2) anionic biopolymer(s) may be each present in the biopolymer complexes of xerogel particles in an amount ranging from 1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 3% to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0219] When the (a) biopolymer comprises the (a-1) cationic biopolymer and the (a-2) anionic biopolymer in combination, the weight ratio of the (a-1) cationic biopolymer and the (a-2) anionic biopolymer may range from 10: 1 to 1 : 10, preferably from 5 : 1 to 1 :5, more preferably from 3 : 1 to 1 :3, and even more preferably from 2: 1 to 1 :2.

[0220] (Lipophobe)

[0221] The dispersed biopolymer complexes of the present invention comprise (b) at least one lipophobe selected from sugar alcohols. Two or more (b) lipophobe may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of the (b) lipophobe or a combination of different types of the (b) lipophobes may be used in combination.

[0222] The term “lipophobe” here is intended to mean lipophobic substances which are not soluble or substantially insoluble in lipids, oils, and / or other non-polar solvents. As the lipids, oils, and / or other non-polar solvents here, mention can be made of isododecane, n-octanol, com oil, and castor oil, in particular com oil and / or castor oil.

[0223] For example, in one embodiment of the present invention, the (b) lipophobe has a solubility in lipids, oils, and / or other non-polar solvents at a concentration of 0.1% by weight or less, for example 0.01% or 0.001% by weight or less at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (105Pa). In another embodiment, the (b) lipophobe is not soluble in isododecane, n- octanol, and / or castor oil, in particular castor oil.

[0224] In another embodiment of the present invention, the (b) lipophobe could be a substance that is insoluble in the oily phase, in particular is insoluble to oily or fatty substances included in the oily phase as an oily medium, such as oils. The term "lipophobe" can be also represented as a "lipophobic substance".

[0225] In the present invention, the (b) lipophobe may be hydrophilic. Specifically the (b) lipophobe may have a solubility in water at a concentration of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of water at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (105Pa).

[0226] In one embodiment of the present invention, the (b) lipophobe has a solubility in water at a concentration of at least 10% by weight, preferably at least 20% by weight, and more preferably at least 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of water at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (105Pa).

[0227] The (b) lipophobe used in the present invention may function to inhibit or suppress mass exchange between the droplets of the dispersed phases (dispersed biopolymer complexes or dispersed aqueous phases). Thus, an undesirable Ostwald ripening of the drops of the dispersed phase, which leads to a growth of the drop size, could be reduced or completely prevented, resulting in stable particles of the biopolymer complexes in the oily phase of the present invention. In addition, the (b) sugar alcohols can have multiple hydrogen bonding sites that are possible to interact with the (a) biopolymer, and thus it is believe that the (b) sugar alcohols can work as a cross-linker for the (a) biopolymer to form the biopolymer complexes.

[0228] The (b) lipophobe may have a mean molecular weight by weight less than 600, preferably less than 500, in particular less than 400. In the context of the present specification, the mean molecular weight indicates a number average molecular weight.

[0229] The (b) lipophobe is selected from sugar alcohols. Two or more types of sugar alcohols may be used in combination.

[0230] The sugar alcohol is a compound which is obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a saccharide to hydroxyl groups. Thus, it is believed that, the Maillard reaction, which is assumed to be a main cause of the color change, hardly occurs for sugar alcohols compared to sugars.

[0231] Also, the inventors for the present invention surprisingly discovered that the (b) sugar alcohols are effective as lipophobes to produce a stable emulsion.

[0232] In some embodiments, the sugar alcohol may be derived from monosaccharides, disaccharides, trisaccharides, and mixtures thereof. In some preferred embodiments, the sugar alcohol may be derived from the monosaccharide. In one preferred embodiment of the present invention, the (b) sugar alcohol comprises at least one monosaccharide sugar alcohol.

[0233] In some embodiments, the sugar alcohol may be derived from a monosaccharide selected from, for example, pentose such as ribulose, xylose, ribose, arabinose, lyxose and deoxyribose, hexose such as allulose, fructose, sorbose, tagatose, allose, altrose, glucose, mannose, gulose, idose, galactose, fucose, fuculose and rhamnose as well as heptose, such as sedoheptulose. The sugar alcohol derived from a monosaccharide is also referred as monosaccharide sugar alcohol in this context.

[0234] In some embodiments, the sugar alcohol may be derived from disaccharides such as sucrose, lactose, maltose and trehalose. The sugar alcohol derived from a disaccharide is also referred as a disaccharide sugar alcohol in this context.

[0235] In some embodiments, the sugar alcohol may be derived from trisaccharides such as maltotriose, cellotriose, 2'-fucosyllactose, gentianose, raffinose and melicitose.

[0236] In some preferred embodiments, the (b) sugar alcohol is selected from monosaccharide sugar alcohols, preferably is selected from erythritol, mannitol, arabitol, sorbitol, xylitol, and mixtures thereof.

[0237] The saccharides can be in the form of L or D isomers.

[0238] The (b) lipophobe(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.2% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0239] The (b) lipophobe(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0240] The (b) lipophobe(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0241] In another embodiment, the (b) lipophobe(s) may be present in the biopolymer complexes of hydrogel particles in an amount of 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, and more preferably 2% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0242] The (b) lipophobe(s) may be present in the biopolymer complexes of hydrogel particles in an amount of 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0243] The (b) lipophobe(s) may be present in biopolymer complexes of hydrogel particles in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0244] In another embodiment, the (b) lipophobe(s) may be present in the biopolymer complexes of xerogel particles in an amount of 10% by weight or more, preferably 20% by weight or more, and more preferably 30% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0245] The (b) lipophobe(s) may be present in the biopolymer complexes of xerogel particles in an amount of 70% by weight or less, preferably 60% by weight or less, and more preferably 50% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0246] The (b) lipophobe(s) may be present in biopolymer complexes of xerogel particles in an amount ranging from 10% to 70% by weight, preferably from 20% to 60% by weight, and more preferably from 30% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0247] In another embodiment of the present invention, the weight ratio of the (a) biopolymer(s) to the (b) lipophobe(s) selected from sugar alcohols in the composition may range from 5:1 to 1 :5, preferably from 4: 1 to 1 :4, more preferably from 3 : 1 to 1 :3, and in particular 2: 1 to 1 :2.

[0248] In another embodiment, the dispersed biopolymer complexes of the present invention comprise (c) at least one lipophobe selected from monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, and derivatives thereof. Two or more (c) lipophobe may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of the (c) lipophobe or a combination of different types of the (c) lipophobes may be used in combination.

[0249] The (c) lipophobe is selected from monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, and derivatives thereof. The derivative of monosaccharides and oligosaccharides include sugar alcohols, deoxy sugars, amino sugars, acetylated sugars, acetals, hemiacetals, and the like. Thus, the (c) lipophobes include the (b) lipophobes selected from sugar alcohols.

[0250] For example, in one embodiment of the present invention, the (c) lipophobe has a solubility in lipids, oils, and / or other non-polar solvents at a concentration of 0.1% by weight or less, for example 0.01% or 0.001% by weight or less at room temperature (25°c) and atmospheric pressure (105pa). in another embodiment, the (c) lipophobe is not soluble in isododecane, n-octanol, ester oils and / or waxes, in particular diisopropyl sebacate and shea butter.

[0251] In another embodiment of the present invention, the (c) lipophobe could be a substance that is insoluble in the oily phase, in particular is insoluble to oily or fatty substances included in the oily phase as an oily medium, such as oils, in particular ester oils and / or oils solid at room temperature, such as diisopropyl sebacate and shea butter.

[0252] In the present invention, the (c) lipophobe may be hydrophilic. Specifically the (c) lipophobe may have a solubility in water at a concentration of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of water at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (105Pa).

[0253] In one embodiment of the present invention, the (c) lipophobe has a solubility in water at a concentration of at least 10% by weight, preferably at least 20% by weight, and more preferably at least 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of water at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (105Pa).

[0254] The (c) lipophobe used in the present invention may function to inhibit or suppress mass exchange between the droplets of the dispersed phases (dispersed biopolymer complexes or dispersed aqueous phases). Thus, an undesirable Ostwald ripening of the drops of the dispersed phase, which leads to a growth of the drop size, could be reduced or completely prevented, resulting in stable particles of the biopolymer complexes in the oily phase of the present invention. In addition, the (c) sugars and derivatives thereof can have multiple hydrogen bonding sites that are possible to interact with the (a) biopolymer including the (a-1) cationic biopolymers and the (a-2) anionic biopolymers, and thus it is believe that the (c) sugars and derivatives thereof can work as a cross-linker for the (a-1) cationic biopolymers and the (a-2) anionic biopolymers to form the biopolymer complexes.

[0255] The (c) lipophobe may have a mean molecular weight by weight less than 600, preferably less than 500, in particular less than 400. In the context of the present specification, the mean molecular weight indicates a number average molecular weight.

[0256] As the monosaccharide of the (c) lipophobe, mention can be made of arabinose, xylose, fructose, glucose, mannose, rhamnose or threose and even more preferentially glucose or threose. As the oligosaccharide of the (c) lipophobe, mention can be made of disaccharides composed of two saccharide molecules and trisaccharides composed of three saccharide molecules. Among the disaccharides, mention may be made of cellobiose, isomaltose, isomaltulose, lactose, lactulose, maltose, sucrose, trehalose or melibiose. Among the trisaccharides, mention may be made of raffinose and maltotriose.

[0257] The (c) lipophobe(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.2% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0258] The (c) lipophobe(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0259] The (c) lipophobe(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0260] In another embodiment, the (c) lipophobe(s) may be present in the biopolymer complexes of hydrogel particles in an amount of 1% by weight or more, preferably 2% by weight or more, and more preferably 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0261] The (c) lipophobe(s) may be present in the biopolymer complexes of hydrogel particles in an amount of 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0262] The (c) lipophobe(s) may be present in biopolymer complexes of hydrogel particles in an amount ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0263] In another embodiment, the (c) lipophobe(s) may be present in the biopolymer complexes of xerogel particles in an amount of 30% by weight or more, preferably 50% by weight or more, and more preferably 65% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0264] The (b) lipophobe(s) may be present in the biopolymer complexes of xerogel particles in an amount of 95% by weight or less, preferably 90% by weight or less, and more preferably 85% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0265] The (b) lipophobe(s) may be present in biopolymer complexes of xerogel particles in an amount ranging from 30% to 95% by weight, preferably from 50% to 90% by weight, and more preferably from 65% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0266] In another embodiment of the present invention, the weight ratio of the (a) biopolymer including the (a-1) cationic biopolymer(s) and the (a-2) anionic biopolymer(a) to the (c) lipophobe(s) in the composition may range from 5 : 1 to 1 :20, preferably from 3 : 1 to 1 : 15, more preferably from 2: 1 to 1:10, and in particular 1 : 1 to 1 :7.

[0267] (Acid having four or more acidic groups)

[0268] The dispersed biopolymer complexes of the present invention optionally comprise at least one acid having four or more acidic groups. Two or more acids having four or more acidic groups may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of the acid having four or more acidic groups or a combination of different types of the acids having four or more acidic groups may be used in combination.

[0269] The acid having four or more acidic groups can work as a cross-linking agent for introducing cross-links between the chains of the (a) biopolymers to produce biopolymer complex particles.

[0270] The acid can be organic acids or inorganic acids. Preferably, the acid is selected from organic acids.

[0271] The acidic groups of the acid can be selected from, for example, a carboxylic acid group, a sulfuric group, a sulfonic group, a phosphonic group, a phosphoric group, a phenolic hydroxyl group, and a mixture thereof, and preferably a phosphoric group. Preferably, the acid is selected from those having four or more phosphoric groups or carboxylic acids, in particular phosphoric groups.

[0272] In one embodiment of the present invention, the acid comprises from 4 to 8 acidic groups, preferably from 4 to 7 acidic groups, and more preferably from 5 or 6 acidic groups.

[0273] In one embodiment of the present invention, the acid comprises from 2 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably from 3 to 10 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 4 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0274] In one embodiment of the present invention, the acid is selected from phosphoric acids and carboxylic acids, preferably phosphoric acids. Non-limiting examples of phosphoric acids having four or more phosphoric groups may include inositol pentakisphosphate, phytic acid, and a combination thereof.

[0275] In one embodiment of the present invention, the acid is selected from carboxylic acids. Nonlimiting examples of carboxylic acids having four or more carboxylic groups may include tetracarboxylic acids, such as EDTA, pentacarboxylic acids, and hexacarboxylic acids.

[0276] In another embodiment of the present invention, the acid can be chosen from those including at least one alicyclic group, such as a cycloalkane group, preferably a C5 or C6 cycloalkane group, in particular a cyclohexane group. As the acid including at least one alicyclic group, mention can be made of inositol pentakisphosphate and phytic acid.

[0277] The acid of the present invention may be in the form of a salt. The term “salt” herein means a salt formed by addition of a suitable base(s) to the acids. As the salt, mention may be made of metal salts, for example salts with an alkaline metal such as Na and K, and salts with an alkaline earth metal such as Mg and Ca, and ammonium salts.

[0278] The acid(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.002% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.003% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0279] The acid(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 0.5% by weight or less, preferably 0.1% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.05% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. The acid(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 0.5% by weight, preferably from 0.002% to 0.1% by weight, and more preferably from 0.003% to 0.05% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0280] In another embodiment, the acid(s) may be present in the biopolymer complexes of hydrogel particles in an amount of 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.02% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.03% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0281] The acid(s) may be present in the biopolymer complexes of hydrogel particles in an amount of 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.5% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0282] The acid(s) may be present in biopolymer complexes of hydrogel particles in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.02% to 0.5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.03% to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0283] In another embodiment, the acid(s) may be present in the biopolymer complexes of xerogel particles in an amount of 0.05% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.2% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0284] The acid(s) may be present in the biopolymer complexes of xerogel particles in an amount of 3% by weight or less, preferably 2% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0285] The acid(s) may be present in biopolymer complexes of xerogel particles in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0286] (pH adjusting agent)

[0287] The biopolymer complexes of the present invention may further comprise at least one pH adjusting agent. A single type of pH adjusting agent or a combination of different types of pH adjusting agents may be used.

[0288] As the pH adjusting agent, at least one acidifying agent and / or at least one basifying agent (alkaline agent) may be used. The pH adjusting agent is different from the acid having four or more acidic groups.

[0289] The acidifying agents can be, for example, mineral or organic acids, for instance hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance tartaric acid, citric acid, and lactic acid, or sulphonic acids.

[0290] The basifying agent or alkaline agent can be, for example, any inorganic or organic basic agents which are commonly used in cosmetic products such as ammonia; alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and tri-ethanolamine, isopropanolamine; sodium and potassium hydroxides; urea, guanidine and their derivatives; basic amino acids such as lysine or arginine; and diamines such as those described in the structure below: wherein

[0291] R denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted by a hydroxyl or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, and Ri, R2, R3, and R4 independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical, or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical, which may be exemplified by 1,3-propanediamine, and derivatives thereof. Arginine, urea, and monoethanolamine may be preferable.

[0292] The acidifying agent or basifying agent may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 1% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0293] The acidifying agent or basifying agent may be present in an amount ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 2% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0294] The pH of the biopolymer complexes may be adjusted to, for example, from 3.0 to 7.5, preferably from 3.50 to 7.0, and more preferably from 4.0 to 6.5.

[0295] {Oily phase}

[0296] The dispersion composition according to the present invention comprises a continuous oily phase in which the biopolymer complexes are dispersed. The oily phase is in general composed of oily or fatty substances such as oils.

[0297] The oily phase may be composed of lipophilic ingredients. The term “lipophilic” here can mean an organic compound that is hydrophobic and insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25° C) and at atmospheric pressure (105Pa). The solubility in water of the lipophilic substance may be less than 1% by weight, for example less than 0.5% by weight or less than 0.1% by weight of water at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (105Pa).

[0298] The oily phase may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 50% by weight or more, preferably 65% by weight or more, and more preferably 80% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0299] The oily phase may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 99% by weight or less, preferably 96% by weight or less, and more preferably 93% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0300] The oily phase may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 50% to 99% by weight, from 65% to 96% by weight, and more preferably from 80% to 93% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0301] The oily phases of the present invention may comprise at least one oil and / or at least one surfactant.

[0302] • Oil The oily phase of the present invention may comprise at least one oil. Two or more oils may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of the oil or a combination of different types of the oils may be used in combination.

[0303] Here, “oil” means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid, a paste (nonsolid), or solid at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (105Pa). The oil used in the present invention is preferably in the form or a liquid or a paste at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (105Pa). As the oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0304] The term "liquid" is intended to mean that the substance is in a liquid state, that is, being capable of flowing under its own weight, at 25° C and at atmospheric pressure (105Pa), as opposed to a “solid” state.

[0305] The oil preferably comprises at least one oil in the form of liquid at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (105Pa).

[0306] Among the oils which may be used in the present invention, mention may be made of: volatile or non-volatile oils; these oils may be hydrocarbon-based oils, especially of animal or plant origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, fatty alcohols, or mixtures thereof.

[0307] For the purposes of the present invention, “hydrocarbon-based oil” or “hydrocarbon oil” is intended to mean an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms. The hydrocarbon-based oil does not comprise any silicon atoms.

[0308] For the purposes of the present invention, “silicone oil” is intended to mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and especially at least one Si-0 group.

[0309] For the purposes of the present invention, “polar oil” is intended to mean an oil of which the solubility parameter 8aat 25°C is other than 0 (J / cm3)1 / 2.

[0310] In particular, “polar oil” is intended to mean an oil of which the chemical structure is formed essentially from, or even constituted of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus atom.

[0311] The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the Hansen three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by C.M. Hansen: The three-dimensional solubility parameters, J. Paint Technol., 39, 105 (1967).

[0312] According to this Hansen space:

[0313] - 3D characterizes the London dispersion forces resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular impacts;

[0314] - 8Pcharacterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles and also the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;

[0315] - 8h characterizes the forces of specific interactions (such as hydrogen bonds, acid / base bonds, donor / acceptor bonds, and the like);

[0316] - 8ais determined by the equation: 8a= (8P2+ 8h2)' / 2.

[0317] The parameters 8P, 8h, 8D and 8aare expressed as (J / cm3)' / 2. Preferably, the polar oils used according to the present invention have a 5aof between 4 and 9.1 , preferably a Saof between 6 and 9.1, even better still between 7.3 and 9.1.

[0318] The oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil. or the like; a polar oil such as a plant or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.

[0319] The oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of plant or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, and fatty alcohols.

[0320] As examples of plant oils, mention may be made of, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, com oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0321] As examples of animal oils, mention may be made of, for example, squalene and squalane.

[0322] As examples of synthetic oils, mention may be made of alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.

[0323] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

[0324] In one embodiment of the present invention, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

[0325] The ester oils of the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols may be represented by formula R1COOR2 in which Ri represents the residue of a linear or branched, preferably a linear fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably 10 to 20 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and more preferably 2 to 8 carbon atoms, with the proviso that Ri + R2 is > 10.

[0326] Among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, and isostearyl neopentanoate.

[0327] It is preferred that the ester oil is selected from fatty acid ester oils.

[0328] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic, or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy, or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

[0329] Mention may especially be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; and diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

[0330] As ester oils, one can use sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids.

[0331] It is recalled that the term “sugar” means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0332] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance, methylglucose.

[0333] The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0334] The esters according to this variant may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0335] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleopalmitate, oleostearate, and palmitostearate mixed esters, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

[0336] As examples of preferable ester oils, mention may be made of, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2- ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrithyl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0337] As the ether oil, dialkyl ethers such as those represented by the following formula:

[0338] R'-O-R2wherein each of R1and R2independently denotes a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C24 alkyl group, preferably Ce-Cis alkyl group, and more preferably C8-C12 alkyl group. It may be preferable that R1and R2are the same.

[0339] As the linear alkyl group, mention may be made of a butyl group, a pentyl group, a hexyl group, a heptyl group, an octyl group, a nonyl group, a decyl group, an undecyl group, a dodecyl group, tridecyl group, a tetradecyl group, a pentadecyl group, a hexadecyl group, a heptadecyl group, an octadecyl group, a nonadecyl group, an eicosyl group, a behenyl group, a docosyl group, a tricosyl group, and an tetracosyl group.

[0340] As the branched alkyl group, mention may be made of a 1 -methylpropyl group, 2-methylpropyl group, a t-butyl group, a 1,1 -dimethylpropyl group, a 3-methylhexyl group, a 5-methylhexyl group, an 1 -ethylhexyl group, an 2-ethylhexylgroup, a 1 -butylpentyl group, a 5 -methyloctyl group, an 1 -ethylhexyl group, an 2-ethylhexyl group, a 1 -butylpentyl group, a 5-methyloctyl group, a 2-butyloctyl group, an isotridecyl group, a 2-pentylnonyl group, a 2-hexyldecyl group, an isostearyl group, a 2-heptylundecyl group, an 2-octyldodecyl group, a 1,3 -dimethylbutyl group, a l-(l-methylethyl)-2-methylpropyl group, a 1,1,3 ,3 -tetramethylbutyl group, a 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl group, a l-(2-methylpropyl)-3-methyibutyl group, a 3,7-dimethyloctyyl group, and a 2-(l,3,3- trimethylbutyl)-5,7,7-trimethyloctyl group.

[0341] As the cyclic alkyl group, mention may be made of a cyclohexyl group, a 3 -methylcyclohexyl group, and a 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl group.

[0342] As examples of artificial triglycerides, mention may be made of, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate), and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).

[0343] As examples of silicone oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.

[0344] Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, especially liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

[0345] These silicone oils may also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones that can be used in accordance with the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organoftmctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.

[0346] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll’s Chemistry and Technology of Silicones ( 1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0347] When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:

[0348] (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the type such as dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of the formula: Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-l,r-bis(2,2,2’,2’,3,3’-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; and

[0349] (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5 x 1 O'6m2 / s at 25°C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM standard 445 Appendix C.

[0350] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.

[0351] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of the following commercial products: the Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for instance the oil 70047 V 500000; the oils of the Mirasil® series sold by the company Rhodia; the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Coming, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60000 mm2 / s; and the Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

[0352] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia.

[0353] Among the silicones containing aryl groups, mention may be made of polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyl silicone oil.

[0354] The phenyl silicone oil may be chosen from the phenyl silicones of the following formula: in which

[0355] Ri to Rio, independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched Ci- C30 hydrocarbon-based radicals, preferably C1-C12 hydrocarbon-based radicals, and more preferably Ci-Ce hydrocarbon-based radicals, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl, or butyl radicals, and m, n, p, and q are, independently of each other, integers of 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably 0 to 500 inclusive, and more preferably 0 to 100 inclusive, with the proviso that the sum n+m+q is other than 0.

[0356] Examples that may be mentioned include the products sold under the following names: the Silbione® oils of the 70641 series from Rhodia; the oils of the Rhodorsil® 70633 and 763 series from Rhodia; the oil Dow Coming 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Coming; the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20; certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, and SF 1265.

[0357] As the phenyl silicone oil, phenyl trimethicone (Ri to Rio are methyl; p, q, and n = 0; m=l in the above formula) is preferable.

[0358] The organomodified liquid silicones may especially contain polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Mention may thus be made of the silicone KF-6017 proposed by Shin-Etsu, and the oils Silwet® L722 and L77 from the company Union Carbide.

[0359] The hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from: linear or branched, optionally cyclic, Ce-Cie lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane; linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam®, and squalane; and mixtures of alkanes, for example, C9- 12 Alkane, C 10- 13 Alkane, C 13 - 14 Alkane, C 13 - 15 Alkane, C14-17 Alkane, C14-19 Alkane, C15-19 Alkane, C15-23 Alkane, C18-21 Alkane, C8-9 Alkane / Cycloalkane, C9-10 Alkane / Cycloalkane, C9-11 Alkane / Cycloalkane, C9-16 Alkane / Cycloalkane, C 10- 12 Alkane / Cycloalkane, C 11 - 14 Alkane / Cycloalkane, C 11 - 15 Alkane / Cycloalkane, Cl 2- 13 Alkane / Cycloalkane.

[0360] As preferable examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, and decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.

[0361] The term “fatty” in the fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols which have 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. The fatty alcohol may be saturated or unsaturated. The fatty alcohol may be linear or branched.

[0362] The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH wherein R is chosen from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be chosen from C12-C20 alkyl and C12-C20 alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.

[0363] The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH wherein R is a saturated or unsaturated linear radical containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0364] The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH wherein R is a saturated or unsaturated branched radical containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0365] As examples of the fatty alcohol, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, pahnitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0366] It is preferable that the fatty alcohol be a saturated fatty alcohol. Thus, the fatty alcohol may be selected from straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 alcohols, preferably straight or branched, saturated C6-C30 alcohols, and more preferably straight or branched, saturated C12-C20 alcohols.

[0367] The term “saturated fatty alcohol” here means an alcohol having a long aliphatic saturated carbon chain. It is preferable that the saturated fatty alcohol be selected from any linear or branched, saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols. Among the linear or branched, saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, saturated C12-C20 fatty alcohols may preferably be used. Any linear or branched, saturated C16-C20 fatty alcohols may be more preferably used. Branched C16-C20 fatty alcohols may be even more preferably used.

[0368] As examples of saturated fatty alcohols, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or a mixture thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol) as well as behenyl alcohol, can be used as a saturated fatty alcohol.

[0369] It is also preferable that the oil be chosen from oils with a molecular weight below 600 g / mol.

[0370] Preferably, the oil has a low molecular weight such as below 600 g / mol, chosen among ester oils with a short hydrocarbon chain or chains (C1-C12) (e.g., isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, and ethyl hexyl palmitate), silicone oils (e.g., volatile silicones such as cyclohexasiloxane), hydrocarbon oils (e.g., isododecane, isohexadecane, and squalane), branched and / or unsaturated fatty alcohol (C12-C30) type oils such as octyldodecanol and oleyl alcohol, and ether oils such as dicaprylyl ether.

[0371] It is preferable that the oil be chosen from polar oils, and more preferably from ester oils, fatty alcohols, and a combination thereof. It is further preferred that the oil comprise both ester oils and fatty alcohols, in particular the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols represented by the formula R1COOR2 in which Ri represents the residue of a linear fatty acid comprising from 10 to 20 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and the fatty alcohol having the structure R-OH, wherein R is chosen from saturated branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0372] It may be preferable that the oil be selected from oils of plant or animal origin. In another embodiment, the oil is preferably selected from plant oils, such as linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, com oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0373] In particular, as the oils in the form of solid at room temperature (25 °C), mention can be made of solid oils derived from plant origins, which can be also called butters of plant origin, solid hydrocarbon oils, solid fatty alcohols, and solid fatty acids.

[0374] As examples of solid oils of plant origin, mention may be made of, for example, shea butter or Butyrospermum parkii butter, Nilotica shea butter, galam butter, Borneo butter or fat or tengkawang tallow (Shorea stenoptera), shorea butter, illipe butter, madhuca butter or (Bassia) Madhuca longifolia butter, mowrah butter (Madhuca latifolia), katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), phulwara butter (M. butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), kokum butter (Garcinia indica), ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), tucuma butter, painya (kpangnan) butter (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia temifolia), grapeseed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter (Theobroma cacao), sunflower butter, rice wax, carnauba wax, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, sunflower wax, and candellila wax.

[0375] As examples of solid hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of, for example, paraffins.

[0376] As examples of solid fatty alcohols, mention can be made of, for example, linear or branched, preferably linear, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, C12-C30 fatty alcohols, such as myristyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and arachidyl alcohol.

[0377] As examples of solid fatty acids, mention can be made of, for example, linear or branched, preferably linear, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, C12-C30 fatty acids, such as capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, and stearic acid.

[0378] The amount of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 65% by weight or more, and more preferably 75% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0379] The amount of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 98% by weight or less, preferably 95% by weight or less, and more preferably 93% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0380] The amount of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 50% to 98% by weight, preferably from 65% to 95% by weight, and more preferably from 75% to 93% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0381] • Surfactant

[0382] The oily phase of the present invention may comprise at least one surfactant. Two or more surfactants may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of the surfactant or a combination of different types of the surfactants may be used in combination.

[0383] The surfactant may be chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic, or nonionic surfactants, used alone or as a mixture. Preferably, the oily phase comprises at least one nonionic surfactant.

[0384] The surfactant is preferably derived from natural origin.

[0385] Examples of nonionic surfactants usable in the compositions of the present invention may include polyethoxylated fatty alcohols or polyglycerolated fatty alcohols, such as the adducts of ethylene oxide with lauryl alcohol, especially those containing from 9 to 50 oxyethylene units (Laureth-9 to Laureth-50 as the INCI names), in particular Laureth-9; esters of polyols and of a fatty acid possessing a saturated or unsaturated chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, that is to say comprising oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units, such as esters of glycerol and of a C8-C24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, in particular polyoxyethylenated glyceryl stearate (mono-, di- and / or tristearate), for example PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate; esters of sugar and of a C8-C24 fatty acid and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, such as polyethoxylated sorbitol esters of C8-C 4 fatty acids, in particular Polysorbate 80, such as the product marketed under the name “TWEEN 80” by Croda; ethers of a sugar and of C8-C24 fatty alcohols, such as caprylyl / capryl glucoside; hydrophobized polysaccharides; polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers; polyoxyethylene oxypropylene alkyl ethers; fatty acid alkanol amides; alkyl amine oxides; alkyl polyglycosides and silicone surfactants, such as polydimethylsiloxane containing oxyethylene groups and / or oxypropylene groups, for example, PEG- 10 dimethicone, bis-PEG / PPG-14 / 14 dimethicone, bis-PEG / PPG-20 / 20 dimethicone, and PEG / PPG-20 / 6 dimethicone; and polyglyceryl fatty acid ester such as polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl- 10 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, polyglyceryl-6 dioleate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-2 oleate, and polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate; and mixtures thereof.

[0386] In addition, mention can be made of alkylpolyglycosides as nonionic surfactants, represented by the following general formula (1):

[0387] R-O-(G)X(1) in which R represents a branched and / or unsaturated alkyl radical comprising from 14 to 24 carbon atoms, G represents a reduced sugar comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms and x denotes a value ranging from 1 to 10 and preferably from 1 to 4, and G in particular denotes glucose, fructose or galactose. Mention may be made, as alkyl poly glycosides of this type, of alkyl polyglucosides (G = glucose in the formula (I)) and in particular the compounds of the formula (I) in which R more particularly represents an oleyl radical (unsaturated Cis radical) or isostearyl (saturated Cis radical), G denotes glucose and x is a value ranging from 1 to 2, in particular isostearyl glucoside, oleyl glucoside and their mixtures. This alkyl polyglucoside can be used as a mixture with a coemulsifier, more specifically with a fatty alcohol and in particular a fatty alcohol having the same fatty chain as that of the alkyl poly glucoside, that is to say comprising from 14 to 24 carbon atoms and having a branched and / or unsaturated chain, for example isostearyl alcohol when the alkyl polyglucoside is isostearyl glucoside and oleyl alcohol when the alkyl polyglucoside is oleyl glucoside.

[0388] In addition, it is particularly advantageous, according to the present invention, to use together a fatty alcohol and an alkylpolyglycoside of which the alkyl part is identical to that of the selected fatty alcohol. Among the fatty alcohol / alkylpolyglycoside mixtures that are particularly preferred, mention may be made of the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the name Montanov®, such as the following mixtures:

[0389] - cetylstearyl alcohol / cocoyl glucoside (Montanov 82®),

[0390] - arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol / arachidyl glucoside (Montanov 802®),

[0391] - myristyl alcohol / myristyl glucoside (Montanov 14®),

[0392] - cetearyl alcohol / cetearyl glucoside (Montanov 68®),

[0393] - Ci4-C22alcohol / Ci2-C2o alkyl glucoside (Montanov L®), - cocoyl alcohol / cocoyl glucoside (Montanov S®) and

[0394] - isostearyl alcohol / isostearyl glucoside (Montanov WO 18®).

[0395] In the hydrophobized polysaccharides, the polysaccharide may be selected from polyglucose or polyfructose. Preferred polyglucoses are selected from cellulose, methyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, amylose, amylopectin and dextrin. A preferred polyfructose is inulin. In one preferred embodiment of the present invention, the hydrophobized polysaccharide as the nonionic surfactant is hydrophobized inulin.

[0396] In the hydrophobized polysaccharides, the hydrophobic chains which can be connected or grafted onto the main chain of the polysaccharides may in particular be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chains having 1 to 50 carbon atoms, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl and alkylene groups, divalent cycloaliphatic groups, or organopolysiloxane chains. These hydrocarbon or organopolysiloxane chains may in particular comprise one or more ester, amide, urethane, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and / or sulphonamide functions. In particular, illustrative and non-limiting instances of hydrophobized inulins that can be used in the compositions according to the present invention include stearoyl inulin, such as those sold under the names Lifidrem INST by Engelhard and Rheopearl INS by Ciba; palmitoyl inulin; undecylenoyl inulin, such as those sold under the names Lifidrem INUK and Lifidrem INUM by Engelhard; and inulin laurylcarbamate, such as that sold under the name Inutec SP1 by Orafti.

[0397] In one embodiment of the present invention, the surfactant useful in the present invention has an HLB value of 8.0 or less. The term HLB ("hydrophilic-lipophilic balance") is well known to those skilled in the art, and reflects the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the molecule.

[0398] In one preferred embodiment, the surfactant useful in the present invention is selected from polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, in particular polyglyceryl fatty acid esters having an HLB value of 8 or less.

[0399] The polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be chosen from mono, di, tri and more esters of saturated or unsaturated fatty acid(s).

[0400] The fatty acid moiety of the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may include 10 or more carbon atoms, preferably 12 or more carbon atoms, more preferably 14 or more carbon atoms, and even more preferably 16 or more carbon atoms, and may include 26 or less carbon atoms, preferably 24 or less carbon atoms, more preferably 22 or less carbon atoms, and even more preferably 20 or less carbon atoms.

[0401] The fatty acid for the fatty acid moiety of the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be saturated or unsaturated, and may be selected from lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, and oleic acid.

[0402] It is preferable that thepolyglyceryl fatty acid ester comprise 10 or less glycerol units, preferably 8 or less glycerol units, more preferably 6 or less glycerol units, and even more preferably 4 or less glycerol units. It is preferable that the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester comprise 2 glycerol units.

[0403] The polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) may be selected from the group consisting of PG2 stearate (HLB: 5.0), PG2 distearate (HLB: 4), PG2 isostearate (HLB: 4.7), PG2 diisostearate (HLB: 3.2), PG2 triisostearate (HLB: 3), PG2 sesquiisostearate (HLB: about 4), PG2 oleate (HLB: 5.5), PG2 sesquioleate (HLB: 5.3), PG3 distearate (HLB: 5), PG3 diisostearate (HLB: 5), PG3 dicocoate (HLB: 7), PG5 hexastearate (HLB: 4.0), PG5 trioleate (HLB: 7.0), PG10 pentaoleate (HLB: 6.4), PG2 sesquicaprylate (HLB: about 8), PG6 distearate (HLB: 8), PG10 tristearate (HLB: 8), PG10 triisostearate (HLB: 8) and mixtures thereof.

[0404] Alternatively, the fatty acid moiety of the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be a polymer of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids. If the fatty acid has a carboxylic group and a hydroxyl group, the polymer may be a polycondensate of the fatty acids which can be formed by the reaction of the carboxylic group or the hydroxyl group of one fatty acid and the hydroxyl group and the carboxylic acid of another fatty acid, respectively. Thus, the fatty acid moiety of the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be a polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxyacids. In other words, the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be a polyglyceryl ester, preferably a polyglyceryl monoester, of a polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxylacids.

[0405] When the fatty acid moiety of the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is a polymer, the fatty acid moiety of the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may comprise 25 or more carbon atoms, preferably 30 or more carbon atoms, and more preferably 35 or more carbon atoms, and may comprise 90 or less carbon atoms, preferably 72 or less carbon atoms, and more preferably 54 or less carbon atoms.

[0406] Ricinoleic acid is an example of a hydroxyl acid, in particular an unsaturated hydroxyl acid, and has a carboxylic group and a hydroxyl group. Thus, the fatty acid moiety of the polyglyceryl fatty acid may be formed by the polycondensation of ricinoleic acids, which results in polyricinoleate. Thus, the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be polyglycerol polyricinoleate (PGPR), i.e., a polyglyceryl ester, preferably a polyglyceryl monoester, of polyricinoleate.

[0407] The polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) may be selected from the group consisting of PG3 polyricinoleate, PG4 polyricinoleate, PG5 polyricinoleate, PG6 polyricinoleate (HLB: 3.5), and mixtures thereof.

[0408] The surfactant(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, and more preferably 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0409] The surfactant(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0410] The surfactant(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0411] • Adjuvant

[0412] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more adjuvants that are common in the fields of cosmetics and dermatology, selected from a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular water-soluble organic solvents; cationic, anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof; gelling agents; thickeners; penetrating agents; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants; moisturizers; emollients; free-radical scavengers; suspending agents; sequestering agents; buffers; fragrances; emollients; dispersing agents; dyes and / or pigments; film-forming agents; stabilizers; preservatives; co-preservatives; opacifying agents; essential oils; agents which can cause a cooling sensation; and mixtures thereof.

[0413] Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to select the optional adjuvant(s) added to the composition according to the present invention such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition in accordance with the present invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisioned addition.

[0414] The adjuvants may be present in the composition of the present invention in an amount preferably ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0415] [Preparation]

[0416] The dispersion composition according to the present invention can be prepared by any type of preparation process, which are well known to those skilled in the art, by mixing the ingredients as explained above. Preferably, the dispersion composition according to the present invention can be obtained by preparation methods for preparing inverse miniemulsions.

[0417] Thus, the present invention also relates to a preparation process of the dispersion composition including a continuous oily phase and a plurality of biopolymer complexes dispersed in the oily phase, wherein the biopolymer complex comprises (a) at least one biopolymer and (b) at least one lipophobe selected from sugar alcohols by an inverse miniemulsion process.

[0418] In one embodiment, the process for preparing the dispersion composition comprising hydrogel particles of the biopolymer complexes according to the present invention may comprise the following steps:

[0419] (i) preparing an oily phase and an aqueous phase separately, wherein the aqueous phase comprises

[0420] (a) at least one biopolymer; and

[0421] (b) at least one lipophobe selected from sugar alcohols,

[0422] (ii) mixing the aqueous phase and the oily phase to obtain a mixture, and

[0423] (iii) emulsifying the mixture to obtain a dispersion composition including a continuous oily phase and a plurality of biopolymer complexes dispersed in the oily phase.

[0424] The ingredients (a) and (b), the oily phase, and the biopolymer complexes are as explained above.

[0425] The aqueous phase may further comprise the aqueous medium, such as water, and / or the pH adjusting agent. Water and the pH adjusting agent are as explained above.

[0426] The emulsifying in the step (iii) may be conducted by stirring and / or sonication.

[0427] The method for stirring is not particularly limited, as long as it can provide a strong shear force. For example, a magnetic stirrer, a homogenizer, a high pressure homogenize r can be used. In one embodiment, the stirring is conducted at 500 to 6,000 rpm, for 5 minutes to 180 minutes at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (105Pa).

[0428] The condition of the sonication may be at a magnitude of sonication ranges from 1,000 W / L to 20,000 W / L, for 1 minute to 60 minutes at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (105Pa).

[0429] In one embodiment, the emulsifying in the step (iii) is conducted with both of the stirring and the sonication. In one preferred embodiment, the emulsifying in the step (iii) is conducted with the stirring and then the sonication.

[0430] After the biopolymer complexes in the form of hydrogel particles are obtained, the process according to the present invention may further comprise a step (iv) of evaporating the aqueous medium, such as water, from the hydrogel particles, to produce the biopolymer complexes in the form of xerogel particles.

[0431] Thus, the process for preparing the dispersion composition comprising xerogel particles of the biopolymer complexes according to the present invention may comprise the following steps:

[0432] (i) preparing an oily phase and an aqueous phase separately, wherein the aqueous phase comprises

[0433] (a) at least one biopolymer; and

[0434] (b) at least one lipophobe selected from sugar alcohols,

[0435] (ii) mixing the aqueous phase and the oily phase to obtain a mixture,

[0436] (iii) emulsifying the mixture and then sonicating the mixture to obtain a dispersion composition including a continuous oily phase and a plurality of biopolymer complexes dispersed in the oily phase; and

[0437] (iv) evaporating the aqueous phase from the biopolymer complexes to obtain the dispersion composition comprising biopolymer complexes in the form of xerogel particles.

[0438] The evaporation may by conducted by placing the dispersion composition under the condition, for example, at a temperature of 10 °C to 100 °C under 103Pa to 105Pa for 5 minutes to 120minutes.

[0439] In another embodiment, the present invention also relates to a preparation process of the dispersion composition including a continuous oily phase and a plurality of biopolymer complexes dispersed in the oily phase, i.e., in the form of W / O dispersion, wherein the (a) biopolymer complex comprises the (a-1) at least one cationic biopolymer and the (a-2) at least one anionic biopolymer in combination; and (c) at least one lipophobe selected from monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, and derivatives thereof, by an inverse miniemulsion process.

[0440] In one embodiment, the process for preparing the dispersion composition comprising hydrogel particles of the biopolymer complexes according to the present invention may comprise the following steps:

[0441] (i) preparing a W / O dispersion comprising the (a) at least one biopolymer selected from the (a-2) cationic biopolymers, the (c) at least one lipophobe selected from monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, and derivatives thereof, and the (d) oil selected from ester oils and oils in the form of solid at room temperature (25 °C),

[0442] (ii) preparing a W / O dispersion comprising the (a) at least one biopolymer selected from the (a-2) anionic biopolymers, the (c) at least one lipophobe selected from monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, and derivatives thereof, and the (d) oil selected from ester oils and oils in the form of solid at room temperature (25 °C), and

[0443] (iii) mixing and emulsifying the two W / O dispersions prepared in each steps (i) and (ii) to prepare the dispersion composition according to the present invention.

[0444] The ingredients (a-1), (a-2), (c), and (d), and the biopolymer complexes are as explained above.

[0445] The aqueous phase (or water phase in the W / O dispersions) may further comprise the aqueous medium, such as water, and / or the pH adjusting agent. Water and the pH adjusting agent are as explained above. The emulsifying in step (iii) may be conducted by stirring and / or sonication.

[0446] The method for stirring is not particularly limited, as long as it can provide a strong shear force. For example, a magnetic stirrer, a homogenizer, a high pressure homogenize r can be used. In one embodiment, the stirring is conducted at 500 to 6,000 rpm, for 5 minutes to 180 minutes at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (105Pa).

[0447] The condition of the sonication may be at a magnitude of sonication ranges from 1,000 W / L to 20,000 W / L, for 1 minute to 60 minutes at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (105Pa).

[0448] In one embodiment, the emulsifying in the step (iii) is conducted with both of the stirring and the sonication. In one preferred embodiment, the emulsifying in the step (iii) is conducted with the stirring and then the sonication.

[0449] After the biopolymer complexes in the form of hydrogel particles are obtained, the process according to the present invention may further comprise a step (iv) of evaporating the aqueous medium, such as water, from the hydrogel particles, to produce the biopolymer complexes in the form of xerogel particles.

[0450] Thus, as another embodiment, the present invention also relates to the process for preparing the dispersion composition comprising xerogel particles of the biopolymer complexes, which may comprise the following steps:

[0451] (i) preparing a W / O dispersion comprising the (a) at least one biopolymer selected from the (a-1) cationic biopolymers, the (c) at least one lipophobe selected from monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, and derivatives thereof, and the (d) oil selected from ester oils and oils in the form of solid at room temperature (25 °C),

[0452] (ii) preparing a W / O dispersion comprising the (a) at least one biopolymer selected from the (a-2) anionic biopolymers, the (c) at least one lipophobe selected from monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, and derivatives thereof, and the (d) oil selected from ester oils and oils in the form of solid at room temperature (25 °C), and

[0453] (iii) mixing and emulsifying the two W / O dispersions prepared in steps (i) and (ii), respectively, to prepare the dispersion composition; and

[0454] (iv) evaporating the aqueous phase from the biopolymer complexes to obtain the dispersion composition comprising biopolymer complexes in the form of xerogel particles.

[0455] The evaporation may by conducted by placing the dispersion composition under the condition, for example, at a temperature of 10 °C to 100 °C under 103Pa to 105Pa for 5 minutes to 120minutes.

[0456] According to a preferred embodiment, the dispersion composition comprises the continuous oily phase and a plurality of biopolymer complexes dispersed in the oily phase, wherein the biopolymer complex comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0457] (a) from 0.01% to 5% by weight of the at least one biopolymer; and

[0458] (b) from 0.1 % to 5% by weight of the at least one lipophobe selected from sugar alcohols.

[0459] According to a preferred embodiment, the dispersion composition comprises the continuous oily phase and a plurality of biopolymer complexes dispersed in the oily phase, wherein the biopolymer complex comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0460] (a) from 0.05% to 3% by weight of the at least one biopolymer selected from polyamino acids, cationic polysaccharides, and anionic polysaccharides; and (b) from 0.2% to 3% by weight of the at least one lipophobe selected from sugar alcohols derived from monosaccharides.

[0461] According to another preferred embodiment, the dispersion composition comprises the continuous oily phase and a plurality of biopolymer complexes dispersed in the oily phase, wherein the biopolymer complex comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0462] (a) from 0.075% to 1 % by weight of the at least one biopolymer selected from polylysine, collagen, gelatin, chitosan, xanthan gum, and hyaluronic acid and salts thereof, and combinations thereof; and

[0463] (b) from 0.3% to 1% by weight of the at least one lipophobe selected from erythritol, mannitol, arabitol, sorbitol, xylitol, and mixtures thereof.

[0464] According to a preferred embodiment, the dispersion composition comprises the continuous oily phase and a plurality of biopolymer complexes dispersed in the oily phase, wherein the biopolymer complex comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0465] (a-1) from 0.01% to 5% by weight of at least one cationic biopolymer;

[0466] (a-2) from 0.01% to 5% by weight of at least one anionic biopolymer;

[0467] (c) from 0.1% to 5% by weight of at least one lipophobe selected from monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, and derivatives thereof; and

[0468] (d) from 50% to 98% by weight of at least one oil selected from ester oils and oils in the form of solid at room temperature (25°C).

[0469] According to a preferred embodiment, the dispersion composition comprises the continuous oily phase and a plurality of biopolymer complexes dispersed in the oily phase, wherein the biopolymer complex comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0470] (a-1) from 0.02% to 3% by weight of at least one cationic biopolymer selected from cationic polysaccharides;

[0471] (a-2) from 0.02% to 3% by weight of at least one anionic biopolymer selected from anionic polysaccharides;

[0472] (c) from 0.2% to 3% by weight of at least one lipophobe selected from monosaccharides and derivatives thereof; and

[0473] (d) from 65% to 95% by weight of at least one oil selected from liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols and solid oils derived from plant origins, solid hydrocarbon oils, solid fatty alcohols, and solid fatty acids.

[0474] According to a preferred embodiment, the dispersion composition comprises the continuous oily phase and a plurality of biopolymer complexes dispersed in the oily phase, wherein the biopolymer complex comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0475] (a-1) from 0.03% to 1% by weight of at least one cationic biopolymer selected from chitosan, ;

[0476] (a-2) from 0.03% to 1 % by weight of at least one anionic biopolymer selected from xanthan gum, carrageenan, and hyaluronic acid;

[0477] (c) from 0.3% to 1% by weight of at least one lipophobe selected from monosaccharides and sugar alcohol derivatives thereof; and

[0478] (d) from 75% to 93% by weight of at least one oil selected from esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and solid oils derived from plant origins.

[0479] [Cosmetic Process and Use] The present invention relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and / or conditioning a keratin material, such as the hair, scalp and / or skin, preferably the hair, comprising applying to the keratin material the composition according to the present invention.

[0480] Cosmetic process here means a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for caring for and / or conditioning a keratin material.

[0481] The application step can be performed by any conventional means such as an applicator, e.g., hands, a spray, and a brush. The application step can be a topical application step.

[0482] The composition according to the present invention is intended to be used as a leave-on type cosmetic composition. Therefore, the cosmetic process according to the present invention does not include a rinse-out or wash-out step of the applied composition from the keratin material after the application step. In one embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic process of the present invention does not include a rinse-out or wash-out step of the applied composition within one hour, preferably within 2 hours, more preferably within 4 hours, and even more preferably within 8 hours after the application step.

[0483] Moreover, the present invention also relates to a use of the composition according to the present invention in the field of cosmetics, in particular caring for and / or conditioning a keratin material.

[0484] EXAMPLES

[0485] The present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples which however should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.

[0486] [Compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Example 1]

[0487] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Example 1 was prepared with ingredients listed in the following Table 1. First, com oil and polyglycerol polyricinoleate were mixed to prepare an oily phase. An aqueous phase was separately prepared by mixing the ingredients listed as “aqueous phase” in Table 1, and then added into the oily phase. The resultant mixture was stirred at 1,000 rpm at room temperature for one hour, and then ultrasonicated for 10 minutes at a magnitude of 6,000 W7L on an ice bath to obtain a dispersion composition including biopolymer complexes dispersed in a continuous oily phase. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients shown in Table 1 are all based on “% by weight” as raw materials, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0488] [Evaluation]

[0489] (Coloration at room temperature)

[0490] The composition according to each of Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Example 1 was left still at room temperature (25°C) and under atmospheric pressure (105Pa) for two months, and the appearance was visually evaluated. The coloration (yellowing) of the composition was assessed under the following criteria.

[0491] OK: the composition maintained its color and did not turn yellow.

[0492] NG: the composition turned yellowed. (Coloration after evaporation)

[0493] The dispersion composition according to Example 1 and 2 and Comparative Example 1 were heated at 70 °C under reduced pressure of 12,000 Pa for 40 minutes, to obtain the composition comprising xerogel particles of the biopolymer matrixes dispersed in the oily phase. In these examples, the content of water in the composition was 0 % by weight. The absorbance of the composition at 400 nm was measured by ultraviolet- visible (UV-Vis) absorption spectroscopy. Higher absorbance at 400 nm indicates that the composition became more yellow.

[0494] The results are shown in following Table 1.

[0495] As can be seen from the results shown in Table 1 as above, the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2, which comprise dispersed biopolymer complexes including a combination of the (a) biopolymer of chitosan and the (b) lipophobe selected from sugar alcohols, could suppress coloration at room temperature over time. In addition, the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 also could suppress the coloration at a high temperature of 70°C, and this result indicates that the composition according to the present invention it is stable with respect to coloration over time.

[0496] In contrast, the compositions according to Comparative Example 1, which did not comprise the (b) lipophobe of the present invention could not suppress the coloration.

[0497] Accordingly, it can be concluded that the composition according to the present invention is very suitable for a variety of applications, such as cosmetic, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic applications.

[0498] [Compositions according to Examples 3 and 4 and Comparative Example 2]

[0499] Each of the compositions according to Examples 3 and 4 and Comparative Example 2 was prepared with ingredients listed in the following Table 2. First, oils and polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate were mixed to prepare an oily phase. An aqueous phase containing cationic biopolymer was prepared by mixing water, chitosan, lactic acid, and glucose, and then added into the oily phase. The resultant mixture was stirred at 1 ,000 rpm at room temperature for one hour and then homogenized at 3,000 rpm for 20 minutes at room temperature to obtain a dispersion composition including cationic biopolymer complexes dispersed in a continuous oily phase.

[0500] Another dispersion composition was likewise prepared using an aqueous phase containing anionic biopolymer prepared by mixing water, carrageenan, and glucose. Two dispersion compositions were mixed and homogenized at 3,000 rpm for 20 minutes at room temperature to obtain a dispersion composition including cationic and anionic biopolymer complexes dispersed in a continuous oily phase. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients shown in the table are all based on “% by weight” as raw materials, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0501] [Evaluation]

[0502] (Stickiness after application)

[0503] 50 mg of the composition of each of Examples 3 and 4 and Comparative Example 2 was applied on the inner forearm of two lab experts. Sensory assessments were conducted with respect to “stickiness after application" by the two experts based on the following criteria.

[0504] Excellent: Very low stickiness after application

[0505] Good: Low stickiness after application

[0506] Fair: Medium stickiness after application

[0507] Poor: High stickiness after application

[0508] The results are shown in following Table 2.

[0509] Table 2

[0510] As can be seen from the results shown in Table 2 as above, the composition comprising diisopropyl sebacate (Examples 3 and 4) showed improved stickiness compared to the composition comprising sunflower seed oil (Comparative Example 2).

[0511] Accordingly, it can be concluded that the composition according to the present invention is very suitable for a variety of applications, such as cosmetic, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic applications.

Claims

CLAIMS1. A dispersion composition comprising a continuous oily phase and a plurality of biopolymer complexes dispersed in the oily phase, wherein the biopolymer complex comprises:(a) at least one biopolymer; and(b) at least one lipophobe selected from sugar alcohols.

2. The composition according to Claim 1, wherein the (a) biopolymer is selected from polyamino acids, cationic polysaccharides and anionic polysaccharides.

3. The composition according to Claim 1 or 2, wherein the (a) biopolymer is selected from polylysine, collagen, gelatin, chitosan, xanthan gum, and hyaluronic acid and salts thereof, and combinations thereof.

4. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, wherein the (b) lipophobe is selected from sugar alcohols derived from monosaccharides.

5. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, wherein the (b) lipophobe is selected from erythritol, mannitol, arabitol, sorbitol, xylitol, and mixtures thereof.

6. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, wherein the (a) biopolymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.075% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, wherein the (b) lipophobe is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. A dispersion composition comprising a continuous oily phase and a plurality of biopolymer complexes dispersed in the oily phase, wherein the biopolymer complex comprises:(a) at least two biopolymers comprising (a-1) at least one cationic biopolymer and (a-2) at least one anionic biopolymer;(c) at least one lipophobe selected from monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, and derivatives thereof; and(d) at least one oil selected from ester oils and oils in the form of solid at room temperature (25°C).

9. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, wherein the biopolymer complexes are in the form of hydrogel particles or in the form of xerogel particles.

10. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, wherein the oily phase is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 50% to 99% by weight, from 65% to 96% by weight, and more preferably from 80% to 93% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, wherein the composition further comprises at least one acid having four or more acidic group.

12. The composition according to Claim 11 , wherein the acid having four or more acidic group is selected from phosphoric acids and carboxylic acids, preferably phosphoric acids.

13. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 12, wherein the composition is cosmetic composition, in particular a topical cosmetic composition for caring for and / or conditioning a keratin material, such as skin.

14. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 12, wherein the composition is a pharmaceutical composition, in particular a pharmaceutical composition for drug delivery, a coating composition, or an ink composition.

15. A process for preparing the dispersion composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7 and 9 to 14, comprising steps of:(i) preparing an oily phase and an aqueous phase separately, wherein the aqueous phase comprises:(a) at least one biopolymer; and(b) at least one lipophobe selected from sugar alcohols(ii) mixing the aqueous phase and the oily phase to obtain a mixture, and(iii) emulsifying the mixture to obtain a dispersion composition including a continuous oily phase and a plurality of biopolymer complexes dispersed in the oily phase.

16. A process for preparing the dispersion composition according to any one of Claims 8 to 14, comprising steps of:(i) preparing a W / O dispersion comprising the (a) at least one biopolymer selected from the (a-1) cationic biopolymers, the (c) at least one lipophobe selected from monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, and derivatives thereof, and the (d) oil selected from ester oils and oils in the form of solid at room temperature (25°C),(ii) preparing a W / O dispersion comprising the (a) at least one biopolymer selected from the (a-2) anionic biopolymers, the (c) at least one lipophobe selected from monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, and derivatives thereof, and the (d) oil selected from ester oils and oils in the form of solid at room temperature (25°C), and(iii) mixing and emulsifying the two W / O dispersions prepared in each steps (i) and (ii) to prepare the dispersion composition.

17. A cosmetic process for caring for and / or conditioning a keratin material, such as skin, comprising applying to the keratin material the composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 13.