Gels comprising ceratonia siliqua gum, xanthan gum and hydroxyethylcellulose

Abstract

The present application relates to a cosmetic gel.

Description

[0001] Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Hamburg

[0002] Gels containing hydroxyethylcellulose

[0003] Cosmetic products generally serve not only to make one look beautiful and attractive, but also contribute significantly to increased self-esteem and well-being. Accordingly, a wide variety of cosmetic products are used for the daily cleansing and care of human skin.

[0004] The present invention relates to a water-containing transparent gel comprising, in addition to water, at least three gelling agents in a specific combination. Preferably, the gel according to the invention contains at least one cosmetic active ingredient.

[0005] Gels and their use for delivering cosmetic ingredients to the skin or mucous membranes are well-known. In a technical sense, the term "gel" refers to relatively dimensionally stable, easily deformable dispersed systems consisting of at least two components. These typically comprise a colloidally dispersed substance—usually solid—made up of long-chain molecular groups (e.g., gelatin, silica, polysaccharides) as a framework, and a liquid dispersion medium (e.g., water). The colloidally dispersed substance is often referred to as a thickener, gelling agent, or gelling agent. It forms a three-dimensional network within the dispersion medium, whereby individual colloidally dispersed particles can be more or less tightly bound to one another via electrostatic interaction.

[0006] Acrylic acid polymers are primarily used as thickening agents. The free carboxyl groups present in these polymers are converted into their salt form by alkalis—such as sodium hydroxide or amines—leading to increased viscosity due to strong cross-linking. Cellulose derivatives or other polysaccharides, such as guar gum or xanthan gum, are also used as gelling agents. Depending on the type and amount of thickening agent, the consistency of a gel can be adjusted from liquid to firm enough to cut.

[0007] The dispersion agent surrounding the network is characterized by electrostatic affinity for the thickening agent, i.e., a predominantly polar (in particular: hydrophilic) thickening agent preferably gels a polar dispersion agent (in particular: water), whereas a predominantly nonpolar thickening agent preferably gels nonpolar dispersion agents.

[0008] Strong electrostatic interactions, such as hydrogen bonds between thickening agent and dispersant, as well as between dispersant molecules themselves, can lead to strong cross-linking of the dispersant. Hydrogels can consist of almost 100% water (along with, for example, approximately 0.2–1.0% of a gelling agent) and still possess a solid consistency.

[0009] In cosmetic galenics, gels are generally characterized by a semi-solid, often flowable consistency.

[0010] The expert knows hydrogels from DE2005056497 A1 .

[0011] It is known in the art that acrylate-based polymers are often used for gel formation. Acrylate-based polymers are polymers obtained by homo- or copolymerization with acrylic and / or methacrylic acid. Examples include sodium polyacrylates and acrylate copolymers. As an alternative to acrylate-based polymers, it is also possible to use polymers formed by homo- or copolymerization with vinylpyrrolidone for gel formation.

[0012] Furthermore, alcoholic gels in particular are thickened with ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer and stabilized against viscosity loss.

[0013] However, a disadvantage is that the use of these polymers is increasingly criticized because their biodegradability is not fully understood. Consequently, there is a need for gels that do not rely on these polymers.

[0014] If the expert now tries to develop gels suitable for presentation in a jar without the aforementioned polymers, some problems arise regarding the cosmetic properties of the products.

[0015] It is desirable for the products to have a consistency that prevents them from running out of the filled jar if it is not stored upright. Upright storage means with the jar opening facing upwards. This is partially achievable with biopolymers such as xanthan gum. However, gels often differ in that their elasticity makes dispensing more difficult. They are often so elastic that they are compressed when an object is inserted, but the gel structure does not break, or only with considerable force. If a consumer tries to dispense the gel with their finger, they must first insert their finger into the gel and thus penetrate the surface before dispensing is possible. Once penetrated, it is desirable that the finger or the object being dispensed can be guided through the gel with a consistent force-to-distance ratio.Furthermore, the gel on the finger should then easily separate from the gel remaining in the jar. Therefore, gel products are needed that have a sufficient consistency so that the gel does not easily run out of the jar, yet still allow for the easy insertion of objects, as described above.

[0016] This problem was surprisingly solved by the present invention.

[0017] The present invention relates to a cosmetic preparation comprising a) Ceratonia Siliqua Gum, b) Xanthan Gum, and c) Hydroxyethylcellulose.

[0018] Where weight percentages (wt%) are given below without reference to a specific composition or mixture, these percentages always refer to the total weight of the preparation. Where ratios of components / substances / groups of substances are disclosed below, these ratios refer to the weight ratios of the components / substances / groups of substances mentioned.

[0019] Where weight percentage ranges for the components of the preparation are specified below, the disclosure of the present application also includes all individual values ​​in steps of 0.1 wt.% within these weight percentage ranges.

[0020] The terms "according to the invention," "advantageous according to the invention," "advantageous in the sense of the present invention," etc., always refer, within the scope of this disclosure, to both the preparation according to the invention and the use according to the invention. Unless otherwise stated, all tests were carried out under standard conditions. The term "standard conditions" means 20°C, 1013 hPa, and a relative humidity of 50%.

[0021] When the term skin is used, it preferably refers to human skin.

[0022] Emulsifiers are defined as all substances listed under the term “emulsifying agent” in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010 (ISBN 1-882621-47-6). Surfactants are defined as all substances listed under the term “surfactant” in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010 (ISBN 1-882621-47-6).

[0023] Where viscosity values ​​are given in this disclosure, all values ​​refer to a measurement at 25°C in a 150 ml wide-mouth bottle (VWR No.: 807-001) using the Rheomat R 123 from proRheo GmbH. The Rheomat R 123 from proRheo GmbH is a rotational viscometer, meaning that a measuring element rotates within the substance being measured. The force required to rotate the measuring element within the sample at a predetermined speed is measured. The viscosity is then calculated from this torque, the rotational speed of the measuring element, and the geometric dimensions of the measuring system. The measuring element used is No. 1 (article no. 200 0191), suitable for a viscosity range up to 10,000 mPa·s and a rotational speed of 62.5 min⁻¹.

[0024] The preparation is advantageously available in gel form.

[0025] It is advantageous in the sense of the present invention if the proportion of Ceratonia Siliqua Gum is 0.1 wt.% to 2 wt.%, preferably 0.3 wt.% to 1.0 wt.% and particularly preferably 0.4 wt.% to 0.9 wt.%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0026] According to the invention, it is advantageous if the proportion of xanthan gum is 0.01 to 1.0 wt.%, preferably 0.02 wt.% to 0.8 wt.%, and particularly preferably 0.05 to 0.5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the preparation. It is also advantageous according to the invention if the proportion of hydroxyethylcellulose is 0.05 to 2 wt.%, preferably 0.1 wt.% to 1.5 wt.%, and particularly preferably 0.15 to 1 wt.%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0027] Advantageously, the weight ratio of xanthan gum to the total proportion of hydroxyethylcellulose is from 5:1 to 1:1, preferably from 4.5:1 to 1:1 and particularly preferably from 4:1 to 1:1.

[0028] Advantageously, the weight ratio of Ceratonia Siliqua Gum to the total proportion of hydroxyethylcellulose is from 2.5:1 to 1:2.5, preferably from 2:1 to 1:2 and particularly preferably 1.5:1 to 1:1.5.

[0029] The preparation is advantageously characterized by the fact that it contains water.

[0030] The total water content is advantageously at least 70% by weight, preferably at least 75% by weight, preferably at least 80% by weight, preferably at least 85% by weight, preferably at least 88% by weight, and particularly preferably at least 90% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. The total water content is advantageously less than 99% by weight, preferably less than 95% by weight, and particularly preferably less than 93% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0031] Furthermore, it has proven advantageous in the sense of the present invention if the preparation comprises at least one emulsifier with an HLB value in the range of 11 to 20, preferably from 12.5 to 19 and particularly preferably from 13 to 18.

[0032] If at least one emulsifier with an HLB value in the range of 11 to 20 is included, it is preferred if the total content of these emulsifiers is 0.1 to 3.0 wt.%, preferably 0.4 to 1.5 wt.% and particularly preferably 0.7 to 1.3 wt.%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0033] If at least one emulsifier with an HLB value in the range of 12.5 to 19 is included, it is preferred if the total content of these emulsifiers is 0.1 to 3.0 wt.%, preferably 0.4 to 1.5 wt.% and particularly preferably 0.7 to 1.3 wt.%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0034] If at least one emulsifier with an HLB value in the range of 13 to 18 is included, it is preferred that the total content of these emulsifiers is 0.1 to 3.0 wt.%, preferably 0.4 to 1.5 wt.% and particularly preferably 0.7 to 1.3 wt.%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0035] It is particularly preferred if ceteareth-20 is included. If ceteareth-20 is included, it is preferred if the total content of ceteareth-20 is 0.1 to 3.0 wt.%, preferably 0.4 to 1.5 wt.%, and particularly preferably 0.7 to 1.3 wt.%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0036] Furthermore, according to the invention, it is advantageous if the preparation comprises glycerin. If glycerin is included, it is preferred if the proportion of glycerin is 2.0 to 8.0 wt.%, preferably 3.0 to 7.0 wt.%, and particularly preferably 3.5 to 6.5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0037] Furthermore, according to the invention, it is advantageous if the preparation comprises ethylhexylglycerin. If ethylhexylglycerin is included, it is preferred if the proportion of ethylhexylglycerin is 0.1 to 1.0 wt.%, preferably 0.15 to 0.8 wt.%, and particularly preferably 0.2 to 0.3 wt.%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0038] Furthermore, according to the invention, it is advantageous if the preparation comprises phenoxyethanol. If phenoxyethanol is included, it is preferred if the proportion of phenoxyethanol is 0.1 to 1.5 wt.%, preferably 0.3 to 1.2 wt.%, and particularly preferably 0.5 to 1.0 wt.%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0039] Furthermore, it is advantageous if the preparation for pH regulation includes citric acid or sodium hydroxide.

[0040] The preparation according to the invention is preferably free of polymers obtained from homo- or copolymerization with vinylpyrrolidone, acrylic and / or methacrylic acid. "Free of" within the meaning of the present invention means that the total proportion of the aforementioned substances is less than 0.05 wt.% and, in particular, preferably 0 wt.%, where the values ​​refer to the total weight of the preparation.

[0041] If the preparation advantageously contains methylpropanediol, it is preferred that the proportion of methylpropanediol be 1 to 10 wt.%, preferably 2 to 8 wt.%, and particularly preferably 3 to 5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the preparation. If the preparation contains propylene glycol, it is preferred that the proportion of propylene glycol be 1 to 10 wt.%, preferably 2 to 8 wt.%, and particularly preferably 3 to 5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0042] If the preparation contains 1,2-hexanediol, it is preferred that the proportion of 1,2-hexanediol is 0.2 to 2 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 1.5 and particularly preferably 0.7 to 1.3 wt.%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0043] Furthermore, it is advantageous according to the invention if additional active ingredients are included. These are advantageously selected from the group consisting of sodium hyaluronate, 1-methylhydantoin-2-imide, creatine, folic acid, panthenol, pantolactone, vitamin C, magnolia, calcium pantothenate, and sodium ascorbyl phosphate. Advantageously, the active ingredients listed in this group are used in total proportions of up to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0044] Furthermore, other cosmetic excipients, such as additional active ingredients, dyes, rheology modifiers, alcohols, oils and waxes, may be included, provided that they do not adversely affect the properties according to the invention.

[0045] The gels of the invention are advantageously characterized by their transparency. This property is often valued by consumers. A gel is considered transparent if it exhibits a transmission of 70% at 420 nm under normal conditions.

[0046] Comparative experiments and examples

[0047] The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without limiting it. Unless otherwise stated, all quantities, proportions, and percentages are based on the weight and total quantity or total weight of the preparations.

[0048] The following tables show various compositions. Only example 2 is according to the invention. The other examples are for comparison.

[0049] The obtained gels were placed in a plastic beaker (65 mm high and 52 mm in diameter). The penetration behavior into the gels was then investigated:

[0050] The penetration force required to penetrate the gel with a test specimen at a constant speed was measured. The recorded force / penetration depth curve indicates penetration into the gel by a change in the required force. The measurement was performed using a TA-XT2i Texture Analyzer from Stable Micro Systems (Godaiming, Surrey, UK). A 12 mm diameter cylinder was advanced vertically (axially) into the gel at a constant feed rate of 1 mm / second to a penetration depth of 15.0 mm, and the force required was measured. A value of 0 mm on the X-axis indicates that the cylinder was placed on the gel without applying any force. According to the invention, the penetration force is measured at an ambient temperature of 25°C and 50% relative humidity. The sample temperature is 23°C.

[0051] The recorded force curves are shown in Figure 1. Example 2 initially shows a higher force required than Examples 1 and 3 to penetrate the surface. Subsequently, the test object penetrates the gel with a constant force. As the curve shows, the gel appears significantly more elastic than Examples 1 and 3, since penetration only occurs at a depth of approximately 13 mm.

[0052] Examples 1 and 3 show that initially a large force is required to penetrate the gel. Subsequently, the gel tears rapidly, rather than penetrating it consistently. Consequently, the gel is difficult to remove.

[0053] The gel according to the invention is transparent.

[0054] Further example recipes:

Claims

Patent claims 1. Cosmetic preparation comprising a) Ceratonia Siliqua Gum, b) Xanthan Gum, and c) Hydroxyethylcellulose.

2. Preparation according to claim 1 characterized in that the proportion of Ceratonia Siliqua Gum is 0.1 wt.% to 2 wt.%, preferably 0.3 wt.% to 1.0 wt.% and particularly preferably 0.4 wt.% to 0.9 wt.%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

3. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that the proportion of xanthan gum is from 0.01 to 1.0 wt.%, preferably from 0.02 wt.% to 0.8 wt.% and particularly preferably from 0.05 to 0.5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

4. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that the proportion of hydroxyethylcellulose is 0.05 to 2.0 wt.%, preferably 0.1 wt.% to 1.5 wt.% and particularly preferably 0.15 to 1 wt.%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

5. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that the weight ratio of xanthan gum to the total proportion of hydroxyethylcellulose is from 5:1 to 1:1, preferably from 4.5:1 to 1:1 and particularly preferably 4:1 to 1:

1.

6. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that the weight ratio of Ceratonia Siliqua Gum to the total proportion of hydroxyethylcellulose is from 2.5:1 to 1:2.5, preferably from 2:1 to 1:2 and particularly preferably 1.5:1 to 1:1.

5.

7. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains water.

8. Preparation according to claim 7 characterized in that the total proportion of water is at least 70 wt.%, preferably at least 75 wt.%, preferably at least 80 wt.%, preferably at least 85 wt.%, preferably at least 88 wt.% and particularly preferably at least 90 wt.%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

9. Preparation according to claim 7 or 8 characterized in that the total proportion of water is less than 99% by weight, preferably less than 95% by weight and particularly preferably less than 93% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

10. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that the preparation comprises at least one emulsifier with an HLB value in the range of 11 to 20, preferably from 12.5 to 19 and particularly preferably from 13 to 18.

11. Preparation according to claim 10 characterized in that the total content of these emulsifiers is 0.1 to 3.0 wt.%, preferably 0.4 to 1.5 wt.% and particularly preferably 0.7 to 1.3 wt.%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

12. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that it contains ceteareth-20, wherein it is preferred that the total content of ceteareth-20 is from 0.1 to 3.0 wt.%, preferably from 0.4 to 1.5 wt.% and particularly preferably from 0.7 to 1.3 wt.%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

13. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that the preparation is in the form of a gel.

Images