Cosmetic inverse emulsion composition comprising an oil, a surfactant, a film-forming polymer and a hydroxy acid

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion form, comprising: a) a continuous fatty phase comprising at least one hydrocarbon oil with a refractive index n greater than or equal to 1.4, b) an aqueous phase dispersed in the continuous fatty phase, c) at least one emulsifying surfactant with an HLB less than or equal to 8, d) at least one film-forming polymer, e) at least one hydroxy acid, and f) at least one coloring material.

Description

[0001] Cosmetic inverse emulsion composition comprising an oil, a surfactant, a filmforming polymer and a hydroxy acid

[0002] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, comprising a continuous fatty phase comprising at least one hydrocarbon oil with a refractive index greater than or equal to 1.4, an aqueous phase dispersed in the continuous fatty phase, at least one emulsifying surfactant with an HLB less than or equal to 8, at least one lipophilic film-forming polymer, at least one hydroxy acid, and at least one coloring material.

[0003] In the field of makeup products, the range of formulations is very wide. It ranges from very fluid liquid compositions to compositions in the form of molded solids, not to mention compacted or loose powders. Moreover, these compositions may be anhydrous or comprise an aqueous phase and be for example in emulsified form.

[0004] Despite this wide variety of dosage forms, each makeup field has developed its own particular characteristics, due to the constraints to which compositions are subjected once applied and the expected performance for compositions.

[0005] Thus, in the field of complexion makeup, formulas may be in the form of direct (oil-in- water) or inverse (water-in-oil) liquid emulsions. These formulations have made it possible to convey active ingredients more readily, in particular for enhanced care and hydration performance.

[0006] However, there is still a need for complexion makeup compositions, which are in inverse emulsion form, and which give the complexion a radiant, or even very radiant, effect, while retaining a good resistance.

[0007] An object of the present invention is to provide a solution to the problems mentioned above.

[0008] Indeed, the Applicant has developed water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions comprising at least one hydrocarbon oil with a refractive index greater than or equal to 1.4, at least one emulsifying surfactant with an HLB less than or equal to 8, at least one lipophilic film-forming polymer, at least one hydroxy acid, and at least one coloring material. Such emulsions make it possible to obtain foundations wherein the radiant effect can be maximized, while retaining a good resistance. Consequently, the present invention relates according to a first aspect to a cosmetic composition in water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion form, comprising: a) a continuous fatty phase comprising at least one hydrocarbon oil with a refractive index n greater than or equal to 1.4, b) an aqueous phase dispersed in the continuous fatty phase, c) at least one emulsifying surfactant with an HLB less than or equal to 8, d) at least one film-forming polymer, e) at least one hydroxy acid, and f) at least one coloring material.

[0009] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is substantially free from silicone oil. "Substantially free from silicone oil" means a composition comprising less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1 % by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight of silicone oil relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is completely free from silicone oil.

[0010] Despite the very low content, or even the complete absence of silicone oil, the compositions according to the invention have a very good resistance.

[0011] Although the composition is more particularly intended for complexion makeup, the composition according to the invention may also be applied on the skin, for example on the lips or cheekbones, as with a blush.

[0012] Furthermore, the composition according to the invention is typically a makeup composition for keratin materials, in particular for the complexion (therefore facial skin); it may also have a care component.

[0013] This invention also relates to a makeup or care method for keratin materials, and particularly the complexion, wherein a composition according to the invention is applied on keratin materials, and in particular on facial skin.

[0014] CONTINUOUS FATTY PHASE

[0015] The continuous fatty phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrocarbon oil with a refractive index greater than or equal to 1.4 (compound a). oil with a refractive index n The continuous fatty phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrocarbon oil with a refractive index n greater than or equal to 1 .40, preferably greater than or equal to 1.45. Preferably, this hydrocarbon oil is non-volatile.

[0016] "Oil" means a non-aqueous compound, liquid at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013.105Pa), non-miscible in water.

[0017] "Non-miscible" means that the mixture of the same quantity of water and oil, after stirring, does not lead to a stable solution that comprises only a single phase, under the aforementioned temperature and pressure conditions. The observation is made with the naked eye or using a phase contrast microscope if necessary, on 100g of mixture obtained after Rayneri stirring sufficient to cause a vortex to appear within the mixture (for the purposes of information 200 to 1000 rpm); the resulting mixture being left to sit, in a closed bottle, for 24 hours at ambient temperature before observation.

[0018] "Non-volatile oil" means an oil, the vapor pressure of which at 25°C and atmospheric pressure is not zero and is less than 2.66 Pa, more particularly less than or equal to 0.13 Pa. By way of example, the vapor pressure can be measured in accordance with the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetry effusion method, according to the vapor pressure (OECD 104).

[0019] "Hydrocarbon oi denotes an oil essentially formed, or consisting, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen, nitrogen atoms, and containing no silicon or fluorine. The hydrocarbon oil is therefore distinct from a silicone oil and from a fluorine oil.

[0020] It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

[0021] Preferably, the hydrocarbon oil is free of heteroatoms such as nitrogen, sulfur and phosphorus.

[0022] In particular, this hydrocarbon oil comprises at least one alcohol function (it is then an "alcohol oil") or at least one ester function (it is then an "ester oil").

[0023] The ester oils that can be used in the compositions according to the invention can in particular be hydroxylated.

[0024] Preferably, the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil having a refractive index n greater than or equal to 1.45. The refractive index is measured at ambient temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure.

[0025] Said hydrocarbon oil is in particular chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon oils having a refractive index n greater than or equal to 1.45 and mixtures thereof. By way of hydrocarbon oils with a refractive index n greater than or equal to 1.4, preferably greater than or equal to 1 .45, mention can particularly be made of:

[0026] - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, in particular polybutenes such as the commercial products INDOPOL H 100 (n=1.49), INDOPOL H 1500® (n=1.5) from INEOS, hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as the commercial products PARLEAM HV® (n=1.456), PARLEAM SV® (n=1.458) from NOF CORPORATION;

[0027] - synthetic fatty acid esters such as isostearyl lactate, isostearyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neodecanoate, isocetyl stearate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, ethyl-2- hexyl isostearate, octyldodecyl stearate, octyldodecyl myristate, diisostearyl adipate, octyl hydroxystearate, glyceryl triisostearate, octyl dodecyl stearoyl stearate, diisocetyl dodecane dioate, dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate / hexacaprate, octyl-2-dodecyl hydroxystearate, pentaerythrityl tetra-octyldodecanoate, tri-isostearyl citrate, pentaerythrityl tetra-2- hexyldecanoate, propylene glycol diisostearate, tridecyltetradecanoin, isostearyl isostearate, isofol 24 isostearate, triisocetyl citrate, diisopropyl dimer dilinoleate, pentaerythrityl tetradecyltetradecanoate, diisostearyl malate (n=1.46) such as the commercial product SCHERCEMOL DISM ESTER® from LUBRIZOL, di-iso-arachidyl dodecane-di-oate, octyldodecyl erucate, triisoarachidyl citrate, hexyldecyl myristoyl methylaminopropionate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, trimethylolpropane triisostearate, oleyl erucate, ditrimethylolpropane tetraisostearate, dioctyldodecyl dimer dilinoleate, ethyl panthenol, soybean sucrose 6-8 fatty acid chains, triisostearyl trilinoleate, octyl-2-dodecyl benzoate, ethyl-2-hexyl benzoate, isofol 12 trimellitate, C12-C15 alkylbenzoate, hydrogenated dimer dilinoleyl / dimethylcarbonate copolymer, tri-iso-decyl trimellitate, tridecyl trimellitate, tri-ethyl-2-hexyl trimellitate, castor oil benzoate, dipropylene glycol dibenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl glyceryl ether palmitate;

[0028] - hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as triglycerides of C5-36 (particularly C6-12) fatty acids and glycerol (n= 1.45-1.46), like caprylic / capric triglycerides, such as the commercial product DUB MCT 7030 / MB from STEARINERIE DUBOIS, arara oil, jojoba oil, pracaxi oil, virgin olive oil, meadowfoam oil, sesame oil, ximenia oil, soybean oil, macadamia oil, castor oil;

[0029] - oils obtained by dimerization of fatty acids, particularly C8-C20 unsaturated fatty acids, such as dilinoleic acid (C36) sold by Croda under the name Pripol 1013-LQ-(GD);

[0030] - oils comprising polyoxypropylene (POP) or polyoxyethylene (PEO) groups, such as oxypropylated myristyl di-adipate (3 OP), oxyethylated glyceryl triacetate (7 EO), PEG-4 (4EO), PEG-6 (6EO), PEG (8 EO), and octyldodecyl PPG-3 myristyl ether dimer dilinoleate; or - mixtures thereof.

[0031] Preferably, a mixture of triglycerides of C5-C36 (particularly C6-C12) fatty acids and glycerol (preferably caprylic / capric triglycerides), diisostearyl malate and dilinoleic acid is used as hydrocarbon oils with a refractive index n greater than or equal to 1.4.

[0032] The hydrocarbon oil(s) with a refractive index n greater than or equal to 1.4 is(are), preferably, present in a concentration ranging from 5 to 50% by weight and more preferably ranging from 8 to 40% by weight, and particularly from 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0033] The continuous fatty phase may also comprise at least one, preferably non-polar, volatile hydrocarbon oil.

[0034] Non-polar volatile hydrocarbon oils

[0035] The term "volatile oil" according to the invention denotes any oil capable of evaporating in contact with skin or keratin fiber in less than one hour, at ambient temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oils according to the invention are volatile cosmetic oils that are liquid at ambient temperature, having a vapor pressure different from zero at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, particularly ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10-3to 300 mm Hg), particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more specifically ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).

[0036] The non-polar volatile hydrocarbon oils are preferably chosen from non-polar hydrocarbon oils and in particular can be chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils that have from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, and in particular:

[0037] - C8-Ci6 branched alkanes such as Cs-Ci6 iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls,

[0038] - linear alkanes, for example such as n-decane (C10) and n-dodecane (C12) sold by Biosynthis under the reference Vegelight silk, n-dodecane (C12) sold by Sasol under the reference PARAFOL 12-97, and mixtures thereof, the undecane-tridecane mixture (Cetiol UT), the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application W02008 / 155059 of Cognis, or the mixture of C9-C12 alkanes, and

[0039] - mixtures thereof. Among volatile hydrocarbon oils, Cs-Ci6 isoalkanes, in particular isododecane, and mixtures of alkanes, are preferred.

[0040] The volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) according to the invention are present, preferably, in concentrations ranging from 5 to 30% by weight and more particularly ranging from 8 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0041] DISPERSED AQUEOUS PHASE

[0042] The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous medium, constituting an aqueous phase, which forms the dispersed phase of the composition (compound b). The composition according to the invention is indeed an inverse (water-in- oil or W / O) emulsion.

[0043] The aqueous phase may consist essentially of water; it may also comprise a mixture of water and a water-miscible solvent (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C).

[0044] The water-miscible solvent may be selected from lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0045] The water-miscible solvent may be chosen from polyols, more particularly liquid polyols at ambient temperature, C2-C8, preferably C3-C6, saturated or not, linear or branched, comprising from 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups. Preferably, the polyol is chosen from glycerin, diglycerin, pentanediol, C3-C8 glycols, linear or branched, saturated, in particular propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1 ,3-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, nad mixtures thereof, and preferably glycerin, propylene glycol, 1 ,3- butylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.

[0046] The composition preferably comprises a water content representing at least 10% by weight, preferably at least 20% by weight, preferably a content ranging from 20% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0047] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one water- miscible solvent chosen from lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, polyols, and mixtures thereof.

[0048] The composition according to the invention may comprise a water-miscible solvent content between 2 and 15% by weight, preferably from 4 to 10% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

[0049] Surfactants with an HLB less than or equal to 8 The compositions of the invention comprise at least one emulsifying surfactant having an HLB (hydrophilic / lipophilic balance) less than or equal to 8, more particularly less than or equal to 7, preferably between 1 and 6 (compound c). The HLB value as per GRIFFIN is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256.

[0050] Preferably, it is non-ionic.

[0051] Preferably, the surfactant(s) are chosen from non-ionic hydrocarbon surfactants and mixtures thereof.

[0052] The non-ionic surfactants may be chosen particularly from polyoxyethylated C8-C30 alcohols, (poly)oxyethylated and / or (poly)oxypropylated alkyl(Cs-C3o)- and polyalkyl(Cs- C30)- esters; polyoxyethylated, preferably polyhydroxylated, C12-C20 fatty acid polyesters, having from 4 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide; alkyl- and polyalkyl- esters of sorbitan; alkyland polyalkyl- esters of (poly)glycerol; hydrocarbon surfactants resulting from the esterification of a mixture of polyglycerol with (i) a polyhydroxystearic acid, (ii) aliphatic, linear or branched dicarboxylic acids having 4 to 14 carbon atoms, or (iii) saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids having from 16 to 20 carbon atoms; and mixtures thereof.

[0053] As polyoxyethylated C8-C30 alcohols, those having a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 2 to 4 are preferably used. By way of example, mention may be made of laureth-2; steareth-2, oleth-2; oleth-3; ceteth-2; ceteareth-3.

[0054] As (poly)oxyethylated and / or (poly)oxypropylated alkyl(Cs-C3o)- and polyalkyl(Cs-C3o)- esters, those having a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 1 to 5, with for example glycol distearate, glycol stearate, PEG-2 oleate; PEG-3 oleate; PEG-4 dilaurate, propylene glycol isostearate; PEG-2.5 castor oil; PEG-3 castor oil, are preferably used.

[0055] As other surfactants that may be used, mention may be made of C12-C20 fatty acid polyesters, preferably polyhydroxylated, polyoxyethylated, having from 4 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide, having water-in-oil emulsifying properties. In particular, these polymers are sequenced polymers, preferably with an ABA structure, comprising poly(hydroxyl ester) sequences and polyoxyethylated sequences. The fatty acid of said emulsifying polymer as defined hereinabove has preferably from 14 to 18 carbon atoms. The esters can in particular be chosen from dates, palmitates or stearates. The polyoxyethylated sequences of said emulsifying polymer as defined hereinabove preferably have from 20 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide. A polymer surfactant that is particularly suitable for the embodiment of compositions of the invention is di-polyhydroxystearate of polyethylene glycol with 30 EO (PEG-30 DI POLYHYDROXYSTEARATE) sold under the trade name Cithrol DPHS-SO- (MV) by Croda.

[0056] As alkyl(C8-C3o)- and polyalkyl(C8-C3o)- esters of sorbitan, particular mention can be made of sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan oleate, sorbitan palmitate; sorbitan stearate, sorbitan isostearate, mixtures of sorbitan stearate and of sucrose cocoate or sorbitan and glycerol isostearate (Arlacel 986 sold by Croda), and mixtures thereof.

[0057] As alkyl(C8-C3o)- and polyalkyl(C8-C3o)- esters of (poly)glycerol, those having a number of glycerol units ranging from 1 to 4 are preferably used. Mention may be made for example of polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (Isolan Gl 34 sold by Evonik Goldschmidt); polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate (Lameform TGI sold by Cognis), glyceryl stearate, glyceryl laurate, alone or in mixtures.

[0058] Finally, as hydrocarbon surfactants resulting from the esterification of a mixture of polyglycerol with (i), (ii), or (iii), mention may be made of hydrocarbon surfactants resulting from the esterification of (i) a polyhydroxystearic acid with 2 to 5 polyglycerol units, preferably 4 units; (ii) a mixture of polyglycerol with aliphatic, linear or branched dicarboxylic acids having 4 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably sebacic acid; and (iii) a mixture of polyglycerol with saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids having 16 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably isostearic acid. As a preferred example of an ester of polyhydroxystearic acid and polyglycerol, mention may be made of polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate polyhydroxystearate sebacate (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4

[0059] DIISOSTEARATE / POLYHYDROXYSTEARATE / SEBACATE) of formula:

[0060] [Chem 1] where PHS denotes polyhydroxystearic acid and IS denotes isostearic acid.

[0061] Such a compound is prepared according to application US2005 / 0031580 and sold under the trade name ISOLAN GPS by Evonik Goldschmidt.

[0062] Preferably, the composition comprises a mixture of a polyoxyethylated, C12-C20, polyhydroxylated fatty acid polyester having from 4 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide, and polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate polyhydroxystearate sebacate. According to the invention, the surfactant(s) having an HLB less than or equal to 8 are present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 15%, preferably from 1 to 12% and even more preferably from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0063] Film-forming lipophilic polymer

[0064] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one lipophilic filmforming polymer, preferably at least one silicone film-forming polymer, and more particularly at least one silicone resin (compound d).

[0065] Advantageously, the film-forming polymer is present in a content of at least 5% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, or more preferably from 6 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0066] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one silicone resin.

[0067] More generally, the term "resin" denotes a compound of which the structure is three-dimensional. As such, for the purposes of the present invention, a polydimethylsiloxane is not a silicone resin.

[0068] The classification of silicone resins (also called siloxane resins or silicone resins) is known under the name "MDTQ", the resin being described according to the various siloxane monomeric units comprised therein, each of the letters "MDTQ" characterizing a type of unit.

[0069] The letter "M" represents the Monofunctional unit having the formula R1 R2R3SiOi / 2, the silicon atom being bound to a single oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit.

[0070] The letter "D" denotes a Difunctional unit R1 R2SiO2 / 2 wherein the silicon atom is bound to two oxygen atoms.

[0071] The letter "T" represents a Trifunctional unit having the formula R1SiO3 / 2.

[0072] In the M, D, T structural units defined above, Ri, namely R1 , R2 and R3, identical or different, represent a hydrocarbon radical (in particular alkyl) having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or a hydroxyl group.

[0073] Finally, the letter "Q" denotes a Tetrafunctional unit SiO4 / 2 wherein the silicon atom is bound to four oxygen atoms in turn bound to the remainder of the polymer.

[0074] Such resins are described for example in "Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, vol. 15, John and Wiley and Sons, New York, (1989), p. 265-270, and US 2,676,182, US 3,627,851 , US 3,772,247, US 5,248,739 or US 5,082,706, US 5,319,040, US 5,302, 685 and US 4,935,484.

[0075] Various silicone resins having different properties can be obtained from these various units, the properties of these polymers varying according to the type of monomers (or units), the type and number of the Ri radical(s), the polymer chain length, the degree of branching and the pendant chain size.

[0076] As silicon resins that can be used in the compositions according to the invention use can be made for example of MQ type, T type or MQT type silicone resins.

[0077] MQ resins:

[0078] As examples of MQ type silicone resins, mention may be made of siloxysilicate type resins, such as alkylsiloxysilicates, aryl siloxysilicates or alkylaryl siloxysilicates, of formula [(R1 )3SiOi / 2]x(SiO4 / 2)y(MQ units) wherein x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80, and such that the group R1 represents a radical as defined hereinabove, and preferably is an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyl group, preferably, a methyl group,

[0079] As examples of MQ type solid silicone resins of the Trimethylsiloxysilicate (INCI name) type, mention may be made of those sold under the reference SR1000 by General Electric, under the reference TMS 803 by Wacker, or mixtures comprising it, such as the product sold under the trade name Silsoft 74 Fluid (in isododecane) by Momentive.

[0080] As silicone resins comprising MQ siloxysilicate units, mention may also be made of phenylalkylesiloxysilicate resins, such as Phenylpropyl Dimethylsiloxysilicate (INCI name), such as Silshine 151 sold by General Electric. The preparation of such resins is described in particular in patent US5817302.

[0081] T resins:

[0082] As examples of T type silicone resins, mention may be made of polysilsesquioxanes comprising predominantly units of formula (RSiO3 / 2)x (T units) wherein x is greater than 100 and such that the R group is an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, said polysilsesquioxanes can furthermore comprise Si-OH terminal groups. Thus, these resins comprise for example at least 80% in moles of T units.

[0083] Mention may also be made of polymethylsilsesquioxanes which are polysilsesquioxanes wherein none of the methyl radicals is substituted by another group. Such polymethylsilsesquioxanes are described for example in document US 5,246,694.

[0084] Preferably, Polymethylsilsesquioxane (INCI name) resins wherein R represents a methyl group may be used, such as for example those sold by Wacker under the reference Resin MK, such as Belsil PMS MK, and by SHIN-ETSU under the references KR-220L, KR- 242A, or KR-251. Among the silsesquioxane resins that may be used in the present invention, mention may be made of those corresponding to homopolymers and / or copolymers of silsesquioxane having an average siloxane unit of general formula R1n SiO(4-n) / 2, where each R1 is a propyl group, wherein more than 80% in moles of R1 represents a C3 to C10 alkyl group, n is a value between 1.0 and 1.4, and more than 60% in moles of the copolymer comprises R1SiO3 / 2 units. Since each R1 is a propyl group, these polymers are called Polypropylsilsesquioxane (INCI name) resins or "t-propyl" silsesquioxane resins. These resins and their manufacturing methods are described, for example, in documents US8586013, US2012 / 0301415 and US2006 / 0292096.

[0085] Among Polypropylsilsesquioxane resins, mention may be made of those sold by Dow Corning under the trade name Dowsil 680 ID Fluid, which are mixtures of Polypropylsilsesquioxane with isosodecane.

[0086] MQT resins:

[0087] As a resin comprising MQT units, those mentioned in document US 5 110 890 are known.

[0088] A preferred form of MQT type resins are MQT-propyl resins (also called MQTPr). Such resins that can be used in the compositions according to the invention are in particular those described and prepared in application WO 2005 / 075542, the content of which is incorporated here by reference.

[0089] The MQ-T-propyl resin preferably comprises the units:

[0090] - (i) (R13SiOi / 2)a

[0091] - (ii) (R22SiO2 / 2)b

[0092] - (iii) (R3SiO3 / 2)cand

[0093] - (iv) (SiO4 / 2)d where

[0094] - R1 , R2 and R3 independently are a hydrocarbon radical (in particular alkyl) having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or a hydroxyl group and preferably an alkyl radical having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms or a phenyl group,

[0095] - a, b, c and d are molar fractions,

[0096] - a is between 0.05 and 0.5,

[0097] - b is between zero and 0.3,

[0098] - c being greater than zero,

[0099] - d is between 0.05 and 0.6,

[0100] - a + b + c + d = 1 , - with the condition that more than 40% in moles of the R3 groups of the siloxane resin are propyl groups.

[0101] Preferably, the siloxane resin comprises the units:

[0102] - (i) (R13SiOi / 2)a

[0103] - (iii) (RSSiC c and

[0104] - (iv) (SiO4 / 2)d where

[0105] - R1 and R3 independently are an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, R1 being preferably a methyl group and R3 preferably being a propyl group,

[0106] - a is between 0.05 and 0.5, preferably between 0.15 and 0.4,

[0107] - c is greater than zero, preferably between 0.15 and 0.4,

[0108] - d is between 0.05 and 0.6, preferably between 0.2 and 0.6, or between 0.2 and 0.55, - a + b + c + d = 1 , and a, b, c and d being molar fractions,

[0109] - with the condition that more than 40% in moles of the R3 groups of the siloxane resin are propyl groups.

[0110] The siloxane resins that can be used according to the invention can be obtained by a method comprising the reaction of:

[0111] A) an MQ resin comprising at least 80% in moles of units (Rl3SiOi / 2)a and (SiC>4 / 2)d

[0112] - R1 being an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group,

[0113] - a and d being greater than zero,

[0114] - the a / d ratio being between 0.5 and 1.5; and of

[0115] B) a T propyl resin comprising at least 80% in moles of (R3SiC>3 / 2)c units,

[0116] - R3 being an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group,

[0117] - c being greater than zero,

[0118] - with the condition that at least 40% in moles of the R3 groups are propyl groups,

[0119] - where the A / B mass ratio is comprised between 95:5 and 15:85, preferably the A / B mass ratio is 30:70.

[0120] Advantageously, the A / B mass ratio is between 95:5 and 15:85. Preferably, the A / B ratio is less than or equal to 70:30. These preferred ratios have proven to allow comfortable deposits. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises, as a silicone resin, at least one MQ type resin as described hereinabove.

[0121] In particular, the silicone resin is a siloxysilicate resin, preferably an aklylsiloxysilicate, preferably Trimethylsiloxysilicate, resin.

[0122] Advantageously, the silicone resin is present in a content of at least 5% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, or more preferably from 6 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0123] Hydroxy acid

[0124] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydroxy acid (compound e).

[0125] The hydroxy acid may be chosen from a-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and derivatives thereof, p-hydroxy acids (BHAs) and derivatives thereof, polyhydroxy acids (PHAs), and mixtures thereof.

[0126] Preferably, the composition comprises:

[0127] - at least one a-hydroxy acid and at least one p-hydroxy acid, or

[0128] - at least one a-hydroxy acid and at least one polyhydroxy acid, or

[0129] - at least one p-hydroxy acid and at least one polyhydroxy acid, or

[0130] - at least one a-hydroxy acid, at least one p-hydroxy acid and at least one polyhydroxy acid.

[0131] The a-hydroxy acid(s), p-hydroxy acid(s), and polyhydroxy acid(s) of each of these embodiments may be as defined below.

[0132] Preferably, the composition comprises at least one p-hydroxy acid, preferably in mixture with at least one a-hydroxy acid and / or at least one polyhydroxy acid, each as defined below according to any embodiment.

[0133] The term "alpha-hydroxy acid," "a-hydroxy acid," or "AHA" denotes a compound comprising at least one carboxylic acid function (COOH) and at least one hydroxyl group (OH) on the carbon atom (alpha) adjacent to one of the COOH functions, preferably comprises one or two, preferably only one, OH groups (independently of the OH group(s) of the COOH function(s). The a-hydroxy acid may be chosen from: glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, 2- hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2- hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2- hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2- hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2- hydroxytetracosanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid; 1-hydroxy-1-cyclopropanecarboxylic acid; 2-hydroxy-3-butenoic acid; 2-hydroxyisobutyric acid; 2-hydroxy-n-butyric acid; isoserine; 2-hydroxy-2-methylbutyric acid; 4-amino-2-hydroxybutyric acid; 1- hydroxycyclohexanecarboxylic acid; dihydroxyfumaric acid; 2-trifluoromethyl-2- hydroxypropionic acid; 3-hydroxymandelic acid; 4-hydroxymandelic acid; 3- methoxymandelic acid; 4-methoxymandelic acid; 2-hydroxy-4-(methylthio)butyric acid; 2- hydroxy-3-methylvaleric acid; p-imidazole lactic acid; glyceric acid; 2-hydroxy-3- methylbutyric acid; 3-(4-hydroxyphenyl)lactic acid; 1 ,2-dihydroxycyclobutanecarboxylic acid; 2-ethyl-2-hydroxybutyric acid; a-hydroxyisocaproic acid; a-hydroxycaproic acid; 2- hydroxy-3,3-dimethylbutyric acid; mandelic acid; phenyllactic acid; tartaric acid; maltaric acid; salts and mixtures thereof; and from derivatives of a-hydroxy acids, which are preferably esters, preferably formed from one or more COOH functions of the a-hydroxy acids. Preferably, the ester function(s) is(are) formed from one or more COOH functions of the a-hydroxy acid and a compound OH-Rc, where Rc is an alkyl, aralkyl or aryl group of saturated or unsaturated form, with a straight or branched chain or cyclic form, having 1 to 19 carbon atoms. When the a-hydroxy acid contains two or more COOH groups, the ester may exist in partial or complete ester form, for example (without limitation), monoethyl tartrate and diethyl tartrate, monoethyl citrate, diethyl citrate and triethyl citrate.

[0134] Preferably, the a-hydroxy acid is chosen from glycolic acid, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid, and their salts; more preferably, the a-hydroxy acid is chosen from glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, their salts, and mixtures thereof; and even more preferably, the a-hydroxy acid is lactic acid.

[0135] The term "beta-hydroxy acid," "P-hydroxy acid," or "BHA" denotes a compound comprising at least one carboxylic acid function (COOH) and at least one hydroxyl group (OH) on the beta carbon atom of one of the carboxylic acid functions, preferably containing one or two hydroxyl groups (independently of the OH group(s) of the COOH function(s)).

[0136] The p-hydroxy acid may be chosen from salicylic acid and derivatives thereof, preferably chosen from salicylic acid, 5-(n-decanoyl)salicylic acid, 5-(n-dodecanoyl)salicylic acid, and 5- (n-heptyloxy)salicylic acid; 5-(n-octanoyl)salicylic acid (CTFA name: Capryloyl Salicylic Acid), 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-octylsalicylic acid, 5-n- heptyloxysalicylic, 5-tert-octylsalicylic, 5-butoxysalicylic, 5-ethoxysalicylic, 5-methoxysalicylic, 5-propoxysalicylic, 5-methylsalicylic, 5-ethylsalicylic and 5-propylsalicylic, and mixtures thereof.

[0137] More preferably, the p-hydroxy acid is a mixture of salicylic acid and 5-(n- octanoyl)salicylic acid.

[0138] The term "polyhydroxy acid" denotes an organic compound that has at least one carboxyl group and a plurality of hydroxy groups. The number of hydroxyl groups in the polyhydroxy acid preferably ranges from 2 to 10, more preferably from 3 to 10, or from 2 to 6, or from 3 to 6.

[0139] The polyhydroxy acids may be chosen from a dihydroxypropanoic acid such as glyceric acid; a trihydroxybutanoic acid such as erythronic acid and threonic acid; a tetrahydroxypentanoic acid such as ribonic acid, arabinonic acid, xylonic acid and lyxonic acid; a pentahydroxyhexanoic acid such as allonic acid, altronic acid, gluconic acid, mannic acid, gulonic acid, idonic acid, galactonic acid and talonic acid; a hexahydroxyheptanoic acid such as glucoheptanoic acid and galactoheptonic acid; lactobionic acid; maltobionic acid; their derivatives such as their salts or their lactone forms such as gluconolactone or ribonolactone; and mixtures thereof.

[0140] Preferably, the polyhydroxy acid is chosen from lactobionic acid, gluconic acid, gluconolactone, ribonolactone, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably, the polyhydroxy acid is gluconolactone.

[0141] The type of salt is not limited. Examples of salts include alkali metal salts such as sodium salt and potassium salt; alkaline earth metal salts such as calcium salt and magnesium salt; zinc salts; iron salts; ammonium salts; amine salts such as monoethanolamine salt, diethanolamine salt, and triethanolamine salt; and mixtures thereof. Sodium salt is preferable. If two or more salts are used, they may be the same or different.

[0142] More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of salicylic acid and 5-(n-octanoyl)salicylic acid, preferably in a mixture with at least one a- hydroxy acid chosen from glycolic acid, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid and their salts and / or in a mixture with at least one polyhydroxy acid chosen from lactobionic acid, gluconic acid, gluconolactone, ribonolactone, and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the composition comprises a mixture of salicylic acid and 5-(n- octanoyl)salicylic acid, preferably in a mixture with lactic acid and / or gluconolactone. The hydroxy acid(s) can be present in the composition according to the invention in a total active substance content ranging from 0.1 to 15%, preferably from 0.3 to 10% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 8% by weight, preferably from 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0143] If the composition comprises several (at least two) hydroxy acids, the contents hereinabove relate to the total hydroxy acid content of the composition.

[0144] Coloring materials

[0145] The composition according to the invention further comprises at least one coloring material (compound f) which is preferably chosen from colorants, pigments, nacres, and mixtures thereof.

[0146] The coloring material(s) may be present, in the composition, at a content ranging from 0.1 % to 25% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, particularly from 1 to 20% by weight.

[0147] The term "colorants" refers to generally organic compounds soluble in fats such as oils or in an aqueous or hydroalcoholic phase.

[0148] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one water-soluble colorant and / or at least one liposoluble colorant.

[0149] The term "water-soluble colorant" refers, for the purposes of the invention, to any generally organic, natural or synthetic compound, soluble in an aqueous phase or water- miscible solvents and capable of coloring. In particular, the term water-soluble is intended to characterize the ability of a compound to be solubilized in water, measured at 25°C, at a concentration at least equal to 0.1 g / l (obtaining of a macroscopically isotropic and transparent solution, colored or not). This solubility is in particular greater than or equal to 1 g / l.

[0150] As water-soluble colorants suitable for the invention mention may particularly be made of synthetic or natural water-soluble colorants such as for example DC Red 6 (Lithol Rubine Na; Cl: 15850), DC Red 22 (Cl: 45380), DC Red 28 (Cl: 45410, Na salt), DC Red 30 (Cl: 73360), DC Red 33 (Cl: 17200), DC Red 40 (Cl: 16035), FDC Yellow 5 (Cl: 19140), FDC Yellow 6 (Cl: 15985), DC Yellow 8 (Cl: 45350 Na salt), FDC Green 3 (Cl: 42053), DC Green 5 (Cl: 61570), FDC Blue 1 (Cl: 42090).

[0151] Given by way of illustration and non-limiting examples of sources of water-soluble coloring material(s) that can be implemented within the scope of the present invention, mention can in particular be made of those of natural origin, such as extracts of carmine, cochineal, beet, grape, carrot, tomato, rocou, paprika, henna, caramel and curcumin. As such, the water-soluble coloring materials that are suitable for the invention are in particular carminic acid, betanin, anthocyanins, enocyanins, lycopene, bixin, norbixin, capsanthyn, capsorubin, flovoxanthin, lutein, cryptoxanthin, rubixanthin, violaxanthin, riboflavin, roudoxanthin, cantaxanthin, chlorophyll, and mixtures thereof.

[0152] They can also consist of copper sulfate, iron, water-soluble sulfopolyesters, rhodamine, betaine, methylene blue, disodium tartrazine salt and fuchsin disodium salt.

[0153] Some of these water-soluble coloring materials are in particular approved from a food standpoint. By way of example of these colorants, more particular mention can be made of the colorants in the carotenoid family, referenced under food codes E120, E162, E163, E160a-g, E150a, E101, E100, E140 and E141.

[0154] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the water-soluble coloring material(s) are chosen from the sodium salts of Yellow 6, Yellow 5, Red 6, Red 33, Red 40.

[0155] The term "liposoluble colorant" refers, for the purposes of the invention, to any generally organic, natural or synthetic compound, soluble in an oily phase or solvents miscible in the oily phase and capable of coloring.

[0156] By way of liposoluble colorants suitable for the invention, mention may particularly be made of liposoluble colorants such as for example DC Red 17, DC Red 21 , DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11 , DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, Sudan brown.

[0157] By way of illustration of natural liposoluble colorants, mention may particularly be made of carotenes such as p-carotene, a-carotene, lycopene; quinoline yellow; xanthophylls such as astaxanthin, antheraxanthin, citranaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, canthaxanthin, diatomoxanthin, flavoxanthin, fucoxanthin, lutein, rhodoxanthin, rubixanthin, siphonaxanthin, violaxanthin, zeaxanthin; annatto; curcumin; quinizarin (Ceres Green BB, D&C Green No. 6, Cl 61565, 1 ,4-Di-p-Toluidinoanthraquinone, Green No. 202, Quinzaine Green SS) and chlorophylls.

[0158] The term "pigments" should be understood to mean white or colored, mineral or organic particles, which are insoluble in an aqueous solution and are intended for coloring and / or opacifying the resulting deposit.

[0159] The pigments can be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, and composite pigments (i.e. pigments with a mineral and / or organic material base). The pigments can be chosen from monochrome pigments, lacquers, nacres, optical-effect pigments, such as reflective pigments and goniochromatic pigments.

[0160] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments. "Mineral pigment" means any pigment that complies with the definition in Ullmann’s Encyclopedia in the Inorganic Pigment chapter. Mention may be made, among the mineral pigments that can be used in the present invention, of zirconium or cerium oxides, along with zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and iron blue, titanium dioxide, metallic powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments can also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2 in a mixture with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, ZnS.

[0161] The size of the pigment that can be used within the scope of the present invention is in general greater than 100 nm and can range up to 10 pm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 pm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 pm. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D

[0050] greater than 100 nm and can range up to 10 pm, preferably from 200 nm to 5pm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 pm. The sizes are measured by laser diffraction by means of a commercial MasterSizer 3000® granulometer from Malvern, making it possible to ascertain the granulometric distribution of all the particles over a wide range that can range from 0.01 pm to 1000 pm. The data are processed on the basis of the classic Mie scattering theory. This theory is the most adapted for size distributions ranging from submicron to multi-micron, and makes it possible to determine an "effective" diameter of particles. This theory is described particularly in the book by Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles", Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957. D

[0050] represents the maximum size of 50% by volume of the particles.

[0162] In the context of the present invention, the mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide.

[0163] As mineral pigments that can be used in the invention, nacres can also be cited. The term "nacres" should be understood to mean iridescent or non-iridescent colored particles of any shape, which are in particular produced by certain mollusks in their shell or else are synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference. The nacres can be selected from pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic coloring material, and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They can also consist of mica particles at the surface whereof are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or of organic coloring materials.

[0164] By way of example of nacres, mention can also be made of natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride. The nacres may more particularly possess a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown and / or copper color or glint.

[0165] Among the pigments that can be used according to the invention, mention can also be made of those that have an optical effect that differs from a simple conventional hue effect, i.e. a unified and stabilized effect of the kind produced by conventional coloring materials, such as, for example, monochromatic pigments. For the purpose of the invention, "stabilized" means absence of an effect of variability of color with the angle of observation or in response to a temperature change. For example, this material may be selected from particles having a metallic glint, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromatic agents, optical brighteners, and also fibers, in particular of the interference type. Of course, these various materials can be combined so as to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect in accordance with the invention.

[0166] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-coated pigment.

[0167] According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound. This type of pigment is particularly advantageous. Since they are treated by a hydrophobic compound, they manifest a preponderant affinity for an oily phase, which can then convey them. The coating can also comprise at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.

[0168] According to the invention, the "coating" of a pigment according to the invention generally denotes the full or partial surface treatment of the pigment by a surface agent, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment.

[0169] The surface-treated pigments can be prepared using chemical, electronic, mechanochemical or mechanical surface treatment techniques well known to a person skilled in the art. Commercial products can also be used.

[0170] The surface agent can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by means of solvent evaporation, chemical reaction or creation of a covalent bond. According to a variant, the surface treatment consists of a coating of the pigments. The coating can represent 0.1% to 20% by weight and particularly 0.5% to 5% by weight of the total weight of the coated pigment.

[0171] The coating can be carried out for example by adsorbing a liquid surface agent on the surface of the solid particles merely by mixing while stirring the particles and said surface agent, optionally heated, before incorporating the particles in the other ingredients of the makeup or care composition.

[0172] The coating can be carried out for example by means of a chemical reaction of a surface agent with the surface of the solid pigment particles and the creation of a covalent bond between the surface agent and the particles. This method is particularly described in patent US 4,578,266.

[0173] The chemical surface treatment can consist of diluting the surface agent in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent, such that the surface agent is deposited on the surface of the pigments.

[0174] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with at least one compound selected from silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; fluorosilicone surfactants; metal soaps, n-acyl amino acids or salts thereof; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; plant or animal natural waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.

[0175] According to a particular embodiment, the coloring material is an organic, synthetic, natural pigment or pigment of natural origin.

[0176] "Organic pigment" means any pigment that complies with the definition in Ullmann’s Encyclopedia in the Organic Pigment chapter. The organic pigments can in particular be selected from the compounds nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.

[0177] The organic pigment(s) can be selected for example from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified the Color Index under the references Cl 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenolic derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.

[0178] The pigments can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles including an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder for fixing the organic pigments to the core.

[0179] The pigment can also be a lacquer. The term lacquer means insoluble coloring materials adsorbed on insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

[0180] The inorganic substrates onto which the coloring materials are adsorbed are for example alumina, silica, borosilicate, calcium and sodium or calcium aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.

[0181] Among organic coloring materials, mention can be made of cochineal carmine. The products known under the following names can also be cited: D&C Red 21 (Cl 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (Cl 45 370), D&C Red 27 (Cl 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (Cl 45 425), D&C Red 3 (Cl 45 430), D&C Red 4 (Cl 15 510), D&C Red 33 (Cl 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (Cl 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (Cl 15985), D&C Green (Cl 61 570), D&C Yellow 1 O (Cl 77 002), D&C Green 3 (Cl 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (Cl 42 090). By way of examples of lacquers, the product known by the name D&C Red 7 (Cl 15 850:1) can be cited.

[0182] USUAL ADDITIONAL COSMETIC INGREDIENTS

[0183] The composition according to the invention may further comprise any usual cosmetic ingredient that can be chosen particularly from hydrophobic thickeners, organic or mineral fillers, antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, neutralizers, sequestrants, active ingredients, and mixtures thereof.

[0184] Obviously, those skilled in the art will take care to choose these optional additional ingredients, and / or the quantity thereof, such that the advantageous properties of the active constituents of the composition according to the invention are not, or are substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition.

[0185] The hydrophobic thickener may be chosen from alkylated guar gums (with a C1-C6 alkyl group), such as those described in EP708114; resins of polyamides comprising alkyl groups having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as those described in US-A-5783657; polysaccharide alkylethers, particularly wherein the alkyl group comprises from 1 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10, more preferably from 1 to 6, and more specifically from 1 to 3, such as those described in document EP-A-898958; organophilic clays; hydrophobic pyrogenic silicas; hydrophobic silica aerogels; elastomeric organopolysiloxanes, and mixtures thereof. Clays are silicates that contain a cation that may be chosen from the cations of calcium, magnesium, aluminum, sodium, potassium, lithium and mixtures thereof. As examples of such products, mention can be made of clays of the family of smectites such as montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellites, saponites, as well as of the family of vermiculites, stevensite, chlorites. These clays may be of natural or synthetic origin. Organophilic clays are clays modified with a chemical compound chosen from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, acetate amines, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulfates, alkyl aryl sulfonates, amide oxides, and mixtures thereof.

[0186] Mention may thus be made of hectorites modified by a quaternary amine, more precisely by a halide, such as a C10 to C22 fatty acid ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified by di-stearyl di-methyl ammonium chloride (CTFA name: Disteardimonium hectorite), such as, for example, that sold under the trade name Bentone 38V®, Bentone 38V CG, Bentone EW CE, by Elementis; the stearalkonium Hectorites such as Bentone 27 V.

[0187] Mention can also be made of quaternium-18 bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 34 sold by Elementis, Claytone 40, Tixogel VP by United catalyst by Southern Clay ; stearalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Tixogel LG by United Catalyst, Claytone AF, Claytone APA by Southern Clay; quaternium- 18 / benzalkonium bentonite such as those sold under the name Claytone HT by Southern Clay

[0188] According to a preferred embodiment, the thickening agent is chosen from modified organophilic clays, in particular modified organophilic hectorites, in particular by halides, preferably ammonium benzyldimethyl stearate chlorides, or by distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride.

[0189] The hydrophobic pyrogenic silicas can be obtained by modifying the surface of the silica by a chemical reaction that generates a decrease in the number of silanol groups, with these groups in particular able to be substituted with hydrophobic groups. The hydrophobic groups may be:

[0190] - trimethylsiloxyl groups, particularly obtained by treating pyrogenic silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas treated in this way are referred to as "Silica silylate" as per the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are for example sold under the references "Aerosil R812®" by Degussa, "CAB-O-SIL TS-530®" by Cabot;

[0191] - dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, particularly obtained by treating pyrogenic silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas treated in this way are referred to as "Silica dimethyl silylate" as per the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are for example sold under the references "Aerosil R972®", "Aerosil R974®" by Degussa, "CAB-O-SIL TS-610®", "CAB-O-SIL TS-720®" by Cabot

[0192] - Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (via drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air. They are generally synthesized by the sol-gel method in a liquid medium then dried usually via the extraction of a supercritical fluid, with the most commonly used being supercritical CO2. This type of drying makes it possible to prevent the contraction of the pores and of the material. The sol-gel method and the various dryings are described in detail in Brinker CJ., and Scherer G.W., Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academic Press, 1990.

[0193] Particles of hydrophobic silica aerogels modified on the surface by trimethylsilyl groups will preferably be used.

[0194] - As hydrophobic silica aerogels, mention can be made for example of the aerogel sold under the trade name VM-2260 (INCI name Silica silylate), by Dow Corning, wherein the particles have an average size of about 1000 microns and a specific area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g. Mention can also be made of the aerogels sold by Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201 , Aerogel OGD 201 , Aerogel TLD 203, Enova® Aerogel MT 1100, ENOVA Aerogel MT 1200.

[0195] The elastomeric organopolysiloxanes are in general partially or totally cross-linked and possibly of a three-dimensional structure. The elastomeric organopolysiloxanes associated with a fatty phase generally have the form of a gel comprised of an elastomeric organopolysiloxane associated with a fatty phase, included in at least one hydrocarbon oil. They may be selected particularly from the crosslinked polymers described in application EP-A-0295886. According to this application, the elastomeric organopolysiloxanes are obtained via an addition and crosslinking reaction of at least:

[0196] (a) an organopolysiloxane having at least two lower alkenyl groups per molecule;

[0197] (b) an organopolysiloxane having at least two hydrogen atoms bound to a silicon atom per molecule; and

[0198] (c) and a catalyst of the platinum type.

[0199] The thickening agent may be present at a content ranging from 0.1 % to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight.

[0200] The term "filler" should be understood to mean colorless or white solid particles of any shape, which are in a form that is insoluble or dispersed in the medium of the composition. They are separate from the coloring materials. Among the fillers that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention can be made of silica, kaolin, starch, lauroyl-lysine, particles of pyrogenic silica, optionally with hydrophilic treatment, mica, talc, sericite, perlite, polyamide powders (Nylon®), poly-p-alanine and polyethylene, powders of tetrafluoroethylene polymers (Teflon®), polymeric hollow microbeads such as those of polyvinylidene / acrylonitrile chloride such as Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), of copolymers of acrylic acid, silicone resin microbeads (Tospearls® from Toshiba, for example), elastomer polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite, barium sulfate, aluminum oxides, polyurethane powders, composite fillers, hollow silica microbeads, glass or ceramic microcapsules, metallic soaps derived from carboxylic organic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, and mixtures thereof.

[0201] A composition implemented according to the invention may comprise one or more fillers at a content ranging from 0.1 % to 15% by weight, particularly from 0,2 to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

[0202] The composition according to the invention can further comprise at least one active ingredient.

[0203] The term "active ingredient" refers to a compound that has a cosmetic and / or dermatological effect, in particular on the lips. This active ingredient can be hydrophilic or hydrophobic. The active ingredient can be water-soluble.

[0204] Thus, the active ingredient present in the composition according to the invention can be independently chosen from among the agents that stimulate the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or prevent their degradation, anti-irritant agents, antipollution or anti-radical agents, UV filters, hydrating agents different from the polyols mentioned above such as for example hyaluronic acid and its salts, vitamins A, E, C, B3, provitamins such as D-panthenol, soothing agents such as a-bisabolol, aloe vera, allantoin, plant extracts or essential oils, agents acting on microcirculation, agents acting on the energy metabolism of cells, healing agents, freshening agents such as menthol and the derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0205] The quantity of active ingredient(s) ranges for example from 0.0001 to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight of active substance relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention may further comprise a phosphonic derivative of the following formula (I): where R represents a linear cyclic saturated alkyl radical, comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably between 5 and 7 carbon atoms, and n represents an integer between 1 and 10, preferably between 4 and 8, preferably between 5 and 7, such as 6.

[0206] Preferably, the alkyl radical is not substituted.

[0207] According to a particular preferred embodiment of the invention, the alkyl radical is the cyclohexyl radical.

[0208] Preferably, the phosphonic derivative of formula (I) is phytic acid.

[0209] The quantity of phosphonic derivative(s) ranges for example from 0.01 to 5% by weight and preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight of active substance relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0210] The product according to the invention can be advantageously used as a makeup product for the skin and / or of the lips according to the nature of the ingredients used. In particular, the product of the invention can have the form of foundation, lipstick, an anti-dark circle or eye contour product, eye liner, eye shadow, makeup product for the body.

[0211] Preferably, the composition of the invention can have the form of a colored makeup product for the complexion such as a foundation, optionally having care or treatment properties.

[0212] The composition according to the invention can be manufactured by known methods, generally used in the cosmetics or dermatological field.

[0213] This invention also relates to a makeup or care method for keratin materials, and particularly the complexion, wherein a composition according to the invention is applied on keratin materials, and in particular on facial skin.

[0214] The invention is now illustrated by the following example. Hereinafter, unless specified otherwise, the quantities are expressed as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (% w / w).

[0215] Example: Preparation of a composition according to the invention and a comparative composition and evaluations

[0216] Compositions C1 to C4 according to the invention and comparative composition CC1 are prepared as follows:

[0217] Preparation of the fatty phase:

[0218] Place all the ingredients of phase A in a beaker under stirring with a Moritz stirrer and heat to 55°C. Once the mixture is homogeneous, add phase C. Allow to stir for 15 min.

[0219] Lower the temperature to ambient temperature and add phase D then E.

[0220] Preparation of the aqueous phase:

[0221] Place phase B under stirring in a beaker. Heat to 55°C to facilitate the homogenization of the mixture, then allow to cool back to room temperature. Adjust the pH if necessary.

[0222] Emulsification:

[0223] Pour the aqueous phase over the fatty phase under Moritz stirring.

[0224] Allow to stir for 10 to 15 min.

[0225] Add phase F and allow to stir for 10 min.

[0226] Condition the white formula.

[0227] Coloring:

[0228] Place the white formula under Rayneri stirring and disperse the pigments until a fine, homogeneous dispersion is obtained. Condition.

[0229] [Table 1]

[0230] Compositions CC1 and C1 to C4 are evaluated for different parameters (see Table 2), including transfer resistance and gloss. Transfer resistance is evaluated as follows:

[0231] - Spreading of the composition on a contrast card at a thickness of 30 pm;

[0232] - Leave to dry at room temperature for at least 6 hours;

[0233] - Apply a piece of white Whypall type fabric to the deposit and place a 300g weight on top;

[0234] - Leave in place for 10s; - Remove the weight then carefully remove the piece of fabric;

[0235] - Evaluate the transfer of the deposit onto the fabric.

[0236] Results:

[0237] Score between 0 and 5 where: 0 = no transfer, and

[0238] 5 = all deposit is gone and has transferred to the fabric (full transfer). CONFORMITY: to pass, the composition must have a score between 0 and 3.5.

[0239] Gloss is evaluated as follows: Using a gloss meter (RHOPOINT Q 20 / 60 / 85° Gloss meter):

[0240] - Spreading of the composition on a contrast card at a thickness of 120 pm;

[0241] - Leave to dry at ambient temperature for at least 12 hours;

[0242] Measure the gloss at different angles (20°, 60° and 85°) using the gloss meter.

[0243] Results:

[0244] The higher the values, the better the gloss. Always compare at the same angle.

[0245] The results are given below: [Table 2]

Claims

CLAIMS1. A cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, comprising: a) a continuous fatty phase comprising at least one hydrocarbon oil with a refractive index n greater than or equal to 1.4, b) an aqueous phase dispersed in the continuous fatty phase, c) at least one emulsifying surfactant with an HLB less than or equal to 8, d) at least one film-forming polymer, e) at least one hydroxy acid, and f) at least one coloring material.

2. The composition according to claim 1 , which is substantially free from silicone oil, preferably comprising less than 2% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, of silicone oil relative to the total weight of the composition; preferably, the composition is completely free from silicone oil.

3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the hydrocarbon oil with a refractive index n greater than or equal to 1.4 is chosen from:- linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, in particular polybutenes or hydrogenated polyisobutenes;- synthetic fatty acid esters such as isostearyl lactate, isostearyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neodecanoate, isocetyl stearate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, ethyl-2-hexyl isostearate, octyldodecyl stearate, octyldodecyl myristate, diisostearyl adipate, octyl hydroxystearate, glyceryl triisostearate, octyl dodecyl stearoyl stearate, diisocetyl dodecane dioate, dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate / hexacaprate, octyl-2-dodecyl hydroxystearate, pentaerythrityl tetra-octyldodecanoate, tri-isostearyl citrate, pentaerythrityl tetra-2- hexyldecanoate, propylene glycol diisostearate, tridecyltetradecanoin, isostearyl isostearate, isofol 24 isostearate, triisocetyl citrate, diisopropyl dimer dilinoleate, pentaerythrityl tetradecyltetradecanoate, diisostearyl malate (n=1.46), di-iso-arachidyl dodecane-di-oate, octyldodecyl erucate, triisoarachidyl citrate, hexyldecyl myristoyl methylaminopropionate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, trimethylolpropane triisostearate,oleyl erucate, ditrimethylolpropane tetraisostearate, dioctyldodecyl dimer dilinoleate, ethyl panthenol, soybean sucrose 6-8 fatty acid chains, triisostearyl trilinoleate, octyl-2-dodecyl benzoate, ethyl-2-hexyl benzoate, isofol 12 trimellitate, C12-C15 alkylbenzoate, hydrogenated dimer dilinoleyl / dimethylcarbonate copolymer, tri-iso-decyl trimellitate, tridecyl trimellitate, tri-ethyl-2-hexyl trimellitate, castor oil benzoate, dipropylene glycol dibenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl glyceryl ether palmitate;- hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as triglycerides of C5-36 (particularly C6-12) fatty acids and glycerol (n= 1.45-1.46), like caprylic / capric triglycerides, arara oil, jojoba oil, pracaxi oil, virgin olive oil, meadowfoam oil, sesame oil, ximenia oil, soybean oil, macadamia oil, castor oil;- oils obtained by dimerization of fatty acids, particularly C8-C20 unsaturated fatty acids, such as dilinoleic acid (C36));- oils comprising polyoxypropylene (POP) or polyoxyethylene (PEO) groups, such as oxypropylated myristyl di-adipate (3 OP), oxyethylated glyceryl triacetate (7 EO), PEG-4 (4EO), PEG-6 (6EO), PEG (8 EO), and octyldodecyl PPG-3 myristyl ether dimer dilinoleate; and- mixtures thereof, preferably the hydrocarbon oil with a refractive index n greater than or equal to 1.4 is a mixture of:- triglycerides of C5-C36 fatty acids, particularly C6-C12, and glycerol,- diisostearyl malate and- dilinoleic acid.

4. The composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the hydrocarbon oil with a refractive index n greater than or equal to 1.4 is present in a concentration ranging from 5 to 50% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 8 to 40% by weight, and particularly from 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. The composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the aqueous phase consists essentially of water or comprises a mixture of water and water- miscible solvent, preferably the water-miscible solvent is chosen from lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, polyols, and mixtures thereof.

6. The composition according to one of the preceding claims, which comprises a water content representing at least 10% by weight, preferably at least 20% byweight, preferably a content ranging from 20% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and / or a water-miscible solvent content between 2 and 15% by weight, preferably from 4 to 10% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

7. The composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the emulsifying surfactant with an HLB less than or equal to 8 is non-ionic, preferably chosen from non-ionic hydrocarbon surfactants and mixtures thereof.

8. The composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the emulsifying surfactant with an HLB less than or equal to 8 is chosen from polyoxyethylated C8-C30 alcohols, (poly)oxyethylated and / or (poly)oxypropylated alkyl(Cs-C3o)- and polyalkyl(Cs-C3o)- esters; polyoxyethylated, C12-C20, preferably polyhydroxylated, fatty acid polyesters, having from 4 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide; alkyl- and polyalkyl- esters of sorbitan; alkyl- and polyalkyl- esters of (poly)glycerol; hydrocarbon surfactants resulting from the esterification of a mixture of polyglycerol with (i) a polyhydroxystearic acid, (ii) aliphatic, linear or branched dicarboxylic acids having 4 to 14 carbon atoms, or (iii) saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids having from 16 to 20 carbon atoms; and mixtures thereof; preferably, the composition comprises a mixture of a polyoxyethylated C12-C20 polyhydroxylated fatty acid polyester having from 4 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide, and of polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate polyhydroxystearate sebacate.

9. The composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the emulsifying surfactant with an HLB less than or equal to 8 is present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 15%, preferably from 1 to 12% and even more preferably from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. The composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the lipophilic film-forming polymer is a silicone resin.

11. The composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the film-forming polymer is present in a content of at least 5% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, or more preferably from 6 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. The composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the lipophilic film-forming polymer is an MQ type silicone resin, preferably a siloxysilicate resin, preferably an alkylsiloxysilicate resin, preferably Trimethylsiloxysilicate.

13. The composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the hydroxy acid is selected from a-hydroxy acids and derivatives thereof, p-hydroxy acids and their derivatives, polyhydroxy acids, and mixtures thereof; preferably the a-hydroxy acid is chosen from glycolic acid, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid, and their salts; more preferably, the a-hydroxy acid is chosen from glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, their salts and mixtures thereof, and even more preferably, the a-hydroxy acid is lactic acid; preferably the p-hydroxy acid is a mixture of salicylic acid and 5-(n-octanoyl)salicylic acid; and preferably the polyhydroxy acid is chosen from lactobionic acid, gluconic acid, gluconolactone, ribonolactone, and mixtures thereof.

14. The composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one p-hydroxy acid, preferably in a mixture with at least one a-hydroxy acid and / or at least one polyhydroxy acid; preferably comprises a mixture of salicylic acid and 5-(n- octanoyl)salicylic acid, preferably in a mixture with at least one a-hydroxy acid chosen from glycolic acid, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid, and their salts and / or in a mixture with at least one polyhydroxy acid chosen from lactobionic acid, gluconic acid, gluconolactone, ribonolactone, and mixtures thereof; advantageously comprises a mixture of salicylic acid and 5-(n-octanoyl)salicylic acid, preferably in a mixture with lactic acid and / or gluconolactone.

15. The composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the hydroxy acid(s) is(are) present in the composition in an active substance content ranging from 0.1% to 15%, preferably from 0.3% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight, preferably from 1% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

16. The composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the coloring material is selected from colorants, pigments, nacres, and mixtures thereof; preferably, it is present in a content ranging from 0.1 % to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 20% by weight.

17. The composition according to one of the preceding claims, which further comprises at least one additional cosmetic ingredient chosen from hydrophobic thickeners, organic or mineral fillers, antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, neutralizers, sequestrants, active ingredients, and mixtures thereof.

18. The composition according to one of the preceding claims, which further comprises a phosphonic derivative of the following formula (I):where R represents a saturated cyclic linear alkyl radical, comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 8 carbon atoms, more preferably between 5 and 7 carbon atoms, and n represents an integer between 1 and 10, preferably between 4 and 8, preferably between 5 and 7, such as 6; the phosphonic derivative of formula (I) being advantageously phytic acid; preferably, the quantity of phosphonic derivative(s) ranges for example from 0.01 to 5% by weight, and preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight of active substance relative to the total weight of the composition.

19. A method for makeup or care of keratin materials and particularly the complexion wherein a composition as defined in one of the preceding claims is applied on keratin materials, and particularly on facial skin.

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