Composition comprising n-ACYL amino acid ester, DIOL and polyglyceryl fatty acid ester
A composition with N-acyl amino acid ester, diol, and polyglyceryl fatty acid ester addresses the challenges of moisturization, stickiness, and glow enhancement in cosmetic products, offering stable, moisturizing, and glowy effects with reduced stickiness and environmental sustainability.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LOREAL SA
- Filing Date
- 2025-11-27
- Publication Date
- 2026-06-25
AI Technical Summary
Conventional cosmetic products face challenges in providing sufficient moisturization, reducing stickiness, and enhancing a glowy appearance while addressing environmental concerns, with oil-based products causing greasiness and water-based products lacking glow enhancement.
A composition comprising N-acyl amino acid ester, diol with a carbon chain of 3 or more, and polyglyceryl fatty acid ester with an HLB value of 5.0 to 14.0, with the diol content being at least 10% by weight, providing a stable, moisturizing, and glowy appearance without stickiness.
The composition achieves stable moisturization, reduces stickiness, and enhances skin glow, while being environmentally friendly due to the use of renewable materials.
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Figure IMGF000018_0001_TABLE
Abstract
Description
[0001] DESCRIPTION
[0002] TITLE OF INVENTION COMPOSITION COMPRISING N-ACYL AMINO ACID ESTER, DIOL AND POLYGLYCERYL FATTY ACID ESTER TECHNICAL FIELD
[0003] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a skin cosmetic composition.
[0004] BACKGROUND ART
[0005] The skin of the body and more particularly that of the face is constantly subjected to environmental attacks, such as from wind, cold or dust, leading to a significant water loss from the skin which must be continuously compensated for. Dehydration of the skin is reflected by skin which is often wrinkled, harsh and rough, which has a tendency to desquamate and which has lost its elasticity. In addition, dehydration, except in the case of skin diseases, is often synonymous with aged skin.
[0006] Thus, there have been conventional cosmetic products which can provide hydration effects. Some of the conventional products include polyols which may enhance hydration effects. However, polyols may cause stickiness.
[0007] On the other hand, a glowy appearance on skin is an important need among consumers in many countries such as China, Japan and the U. S.
[0008] Oil-based cosmetic products have been used to enhance glow of the skin. However, there is a technical challenge that oil-based cosmetic products often provide an unpleasant feeling to touch such as a greasy texture when being used. On the other hand, water-based cosmetic products can typically provide fresh texture as opposed to a greasy one. However, waterbased cosmetic products do not readily enhance the glowy appearance of skin.
[0009] In addition, the formulation of environmentally-friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed considering environmental issues, is becoming a major goal in an effort to meet global challenges.
[0010] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions, preparation processes and ingredients to address these environmental concerns.
[0011] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, particularly by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a good index of naturalness and / or materials of natural origin.
[0012] DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION
[0013] There is a need for a composition which is stable and can provide sufficient moisturizing effects, less stickiness, and a glowy appearance. Thus, an objective of the present invention is to provide a stable composition which can provide sufficient moisturizing effects, less stickiness, and a glowy appearance.
[0014] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a skin cosmetic composition, comprising:
[0015] (a) at least one N-acyl amino acid ester;
[0016] (b) at least one diol having at least one carbon chain comprising 3 or more carbon atoms;
[0017] and
[0018] (c) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of more than 5.0 and less than 14.0,
[0019] wherein
[0020] the amount of the (b) diol having at least one carbon chain comprising 3 or more carbon atoms in the composition is more than 10% by weight, preferably 15% by weight or more, and more preferably 20% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. The (a) N-acyl amino acid ester may be represented by the following general formula (1):
[0021] R2-N(R5)-CH(R6)-(CH2)n-COO-R3(1)
[0022] wherein
[0023] R2represents a linear or branched acyl group having 4 to 30, preferably 5 to 26, and more preferably 6 to 22 carbon atoms,
[0024] R3represents a branched alkyl group having 3 to 10, preferably 3 to 8, and more preferably 3 to 6 carbon atoms,
[0025] R5represents a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms,
[0026] R6represents a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms which may be substituted with a hydroxy group or a phenyl group, and
[0027] n represents an integer from 0 to 2
[0028] The (a) N-acyl amino acid ester may be selected from the group consisting of N-capryloyl sarcosine isopropyl ester, N-caproyl sarcosine isopropyl ester, N-lauroyl sarcosine isopropyl ester, N-cocoyl sarcosine isopropyl ester, N-myristoyl sarcosine isopropyl ester, N-palmitoyl sarcosine isopropyl ester, N-stearoyl sarcosine isopropyl ester, N-capryloyl sarcosine isobutyl ester, N-caproyl sarcosine isobutyl ester, N-lauroyl sarcosine isobutyl ester, N-cocoyl sarcosine isobutyl ester, N-myristoyl sarcosine isobutyl ester, N-palmitoyl sarcosine isobutyl ester, N-stearoyl sarcosine isobutyl ester, N-capryloyl glycine isopropyl ester, N-caproyl glycine isopropyl ester, N-lauroyl glycine isopropyl ester, N-cocoyl glycine isopropyl ester, N-myristoyl glycine isopropyl ester, N-palmitoyl glycine isopropyl ester, N-stearoyl glycine isopropyl ester, N-capryloyl alanine isopropyl ester, N-caproyl alanine isopropyl ester, N-lauroyl alanine isopropyl ester, N-cocoyl alanine isopropyl ester, N-myristoyl alanine isopropyl ester, N-palmitoylalanine isopropyl ester, N-stearoylalanine isopropyl ester, N- lauroyl-P-alanine isopropyl ester, N-lauroyl-N-methyl-P-alanine isopropyl ester, N-cocoyl-N-methyl-p-alanine isopropyl ester, and a mixture thereof.
[0029] The amount of the (a) N-acyl amino acid ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The (b) diol may have at least one carbon chain comprising from 3 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 8 carbon atoms, and more preferably 4 to 6 carbon atoms.
[0030] The (b) diol having at least one carbon chain comprising 3 or more carbon atoms may be selected from the group consisting of propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, butylene glycol, dibutylene glycol, polybutylene glycol, pentylene glycol, dipentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dihexylene glycol, and a mixture thereof.
[0031] The amount of the (b) diol(s) having at least one carbon chain comprising 3 or more carbon atoms in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 35% by weight or less, and more preferably 20% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0032] The (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be selected from polyglyceryl fatty acid monoesters. The (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may comprise from 2 to 8 glycerol units, preferably from 2 to 6 glycerol units, more preferably from 2 to 4 glycerol units, and even more preferably 2 glycerol units.
[0033] The (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may have at least one fatty acid moiety derived from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 28 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 10 to 20 carbon atoms. The (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be selected from the group consisting of PG2 oleate, PG2 laurate, PG2 caprate, PG2 stearate and a mixture thereof.
[0034] The amount of the (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0035] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (d) water.
[0036] The amount of the (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be from 45% to 95% by weight, more preferably from 50% to 85% by weight, and even more preferably from 55% to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0037] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for a keratin material such as skin, comprising applying the composition according to the present invention.
[0038] BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
[0039] After diligent research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a stable composition which can provide sufficient moisturizing effects, less stickiness, and a glowy appearance.
[0040] Thus, an objective of the present invention is to provide a stable composition which can provide sufficient moisturizing effects, less stickiness, and a glowy appearance.
[0041] Thus, the composition according to the present invention comprises: (a) at least one N-acyl amino acid ester;
[0042] (b) at least one diol having at least one carbon chain comprising 3 or more carbon atoms;
[0043] and
[0044] (c) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of more than 5.0 and less than 14.0,
[0045] wherein
[0046] the amount of the (b) diol having at least one carbon chain comprising 3 or more carbon atoms in the composition is more than 10% by weight, preferably 15% by weight or more, and more preferably 20% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the present invention is stable. Even if the composition according to the present invention includes water, the composition can have good stability. For example, if the composition according to the present invention is transparent, the composition can maintain the transparency thereof over time.
[0047] The composition according to the present invention can provide sufficient moisturizing effects which can be noticed by sufficient moisturizing feeling. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can have good hydration effects.
[0048] The composition according to the present invention is less sticky, despite comprising diol. The term “sticky” here means a property which provides a tacky feeling to the skin. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can provide a reduced sticky feeling to the touch. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can provide an excellent texture during and / or after use.
[0049] The composition according to the present invention can provide a glowy appearance. Even if the composition according to the present invention includes water, the composition can provide a glowy appearance.
[0050] In addition, the composition according to the present invention can be uniform, without causing any phase separation.
[0051] Furthermore, the (a) N-acyl amino acid ester and / or the (b) diol having at least one carbon chain comprising 3 or more carbon atoms and / or the (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of more than 5.0 and less than 14.0 may be biodegradable and / or may be obtained by renewable natural materials such as biomass (e.g., plants).
[0052] Thus, the composition according to the present invention is environmentally-friendly.
[0053] Hereinafter, the present invention will be explained in a more detailed manner.
[0054] [Composition]
[0055] The composition according to the present invention comprises:
[0056] (a) at least one N-acyl amino acid ester;
[0057] (b) at least one diol having at least one carbon chain comprising 3 or more carbon atoms;
[0058] and
[0059] (c) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of more than 5.0 and less than 14.0,
[0060] wherein the amount of the (b) diol having at least one carbon chain comprising 3 or more carbon atoms in the composition is more than 10% by weight, preferably 15% by weight or more, and more preferably 20% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. Hereinafter, the composition according to the present invention will be explained.
[0061] (N-Acyl Amino Acid Ester)
[0062] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one N-acyl amino acid ester. Two or more N-acyl amino acid esters may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of N-acyl amino acid ester or a combination of different types of N-amino acid esters may be used.
[0063] The (a) N-acyl amino acid ester may be represented by the following general formula (1): R2-N(R5)-CH(R6)-(CH2)n-COO-R3(1 )
[0064] wherein
[0065] R2represents a linear or branched acyl group having 4 to 30, preferably 5 to 26, and more preferably 6 to 22 carbon atoms,
[0066] R3represents a branched alkyl group having 3 to 10, preferably 3 to 8, and more preferably 3 to 6 carbon atoms,
[0067] R5represents a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms,
[0068] R6represents a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms which may be substituted with a hydroxy group or a phenyl group, and
[0069] n represents an integer from 0 to 2.
[0070] As examples of the linear or branched acyl group having 4 to 30 carbon atoms, mention may be made of those listed above.
[0071] As examples of the branched alkyl group having 3 to 10 carbon atoms, mention may be made of those listed above.
[0072] As examples of a linear or branched alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, mention may be made of a methyl group, an ethyl group, a propyl group, an isopropyl group, a n-butyl group, an iso-butyl group, a sec-butyl group, and a tert-butyl group.
[0073] As the (a) N-acyl amino acid ester represented by the formula (1), mention may be made of, for example, N-capryloyl sarcosine isopropyl ester, N-caproyl sarcosine isopropyl ester, N-lauroyl sarcosine isopropyl ester, N-coconut oil fatty acid acyl sarcosine isopropyl ester (N-cocoyl sarcosine isopropyl ester), N-myristoyl sarcosine isopropyl ester, N-palmitoyl sarcosine isopropyl ester, N-stearoyl sarcosine isopropyl ester, N-capryloyl sarcosine isobutyl ester, N-caproyl sarcosine isobutyl ester, N-lauroyl sarcosine isobutyl ester, N-coconut oil fatty acid acyl sarcosine isobutyl ester (N-cocoyl sarcosine isobutyl ester), N-myristoyl sarcosine isobutyl ester, N-palmitoyl sarcosine isobutyl ester, N-stearoyl sarcosine isobutyl ester, N-capryloyl glycine isopropyl ester, N-caproyl glycine isopropyl ester, N-lauroyl glycine isopropyl ester, N-coconut oil fatty acid acyl glycine isopropyl ester (N-cocoyl glycine isopropyl ester), N-myristoyl glycine isopropyl ester, N-palmitoyl glycine isopropyl ester, N-stearoyl glycine isopropyl ester, N-capryloyl alanine isopropyl ester, N-caproyl alanine isopropyl ester, N-lauroyl alanine isopropyl ester, N-coconut oil fatty acid acyl alanine isopropyl ester (N-cocoyl alanine isopropyl ester), N-myristoyl alanine isopropyl ester, N-palmitoylalanine isopropyl ester, N-stearoylalanine isopropyl ester, N-lauroyl-P-alanine isopropyl ester, N-lauroyl-N-methyl-P-alanine isopropyl ester, N-coconut oil fatty acid acyl-N-methyl -B-alanine isopropyl ester (N-cocoyl-N-methyl-β-alanine isopropyl ester) and the like.
[0074] It is preferable that the (a) N-acyl amino acid ester be isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate. As isopropyl lauroyl sarcosine, a commercial product such as Eldew® SL-205 by Ajinomoto may be used.
[0075] The amount of the (a) N-acyl amino acid ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0076] The amount of the (a) N-acyl amino acid ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0077] The amount of the (a) N-acyl amino acid ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0078] (Diol)
[0079] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one diol having at least one carbon chain comprising 3 or more carbon atoms. Two or more such (b) diols may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of such (d) diol or a combination of different types of such (b) diols may be used.
[0080] Hereafter, (b) at least one diol having at least one carbon chain comprising 3 or more carbon atoms may be simply referred to as “(b) diol”.
[0081] The term “diol” here means a compound which has two alcohol functions. In other words, diol is an alcohol having two hydroxy groups.
[0082] The number of carbon atoms in the carbon chain in the (b) diol is 3 or more, and preferably 4 or more. On the other hand, the number of carbon atoms in the carbon chain in the (b) diol may be 10 or less, preferably 8 or less, and more preferably 6 or less. Thus, the (b) diol may have at least one carbon chain comprising from 3 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 8 carbon atoms, and more preferably 4 to 6 carbon atoms. It may be even more preferable that the number of carbon atoms in the carbon chain in the (b) diol be 4 or 5.
[0083] The carbon chain comprising 3 or more carbon atoms in the (b) diol may be straight or branched. The carbon chain may not be interrupted by a heteroatom such as an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom and a nitrogen atom. Thus, the carbon chain may comprise consecutive carbon atoms.
[0084] The number of the carbon chain comprising 3 or more carbon atoms in the (b) diol is not limited. It may be preferable that the number of the carbon chain comprising 3 or more carbon atoms in the (b) diol be 1 to 3, and more preferably 1 or 2.
[0085] The total number of carbon atoms in the (b) diol may be 3 or more, and preferably 4 or more. On the other hand, the total number of carbon atoms in the (b) diol may be 10 or less, preferably 8 or less, and more preferably 6 or less. Thus, the total number of carbon atoms in the (b) diol may be from 3 to 10, preferably from 4 to 8, and more preferably from 4 to 6. It may be even more preferable that the total number of carbon atoms in the (b) diol be 4 or 5. The (b) diol(s) having at least one carbon chain comprising 3 or more carbon atoms may have a divalent straight or branched hydrocarbon group. The divalent straight or branched hydrocarbon group which may be present in the (b) diol may be saturated or unsaturated. It is preferable that the (b) diol comprise a divalent straight or branched saturated hydrocarbon group, and more preferably a straight or branched alkylene group, such as a propylene group, a butylene group, a pentylene group and a hexylene group.
[0086] The (b) diol(s) having at least one carbon chain comprising 3 or more carbon atoms may have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure, as long as it has the carbon chain comprising 3 or more carbon atoms.
[0087] The (b) diol(s) having at least one carbon chain comprising 3 or more carbon atoms may be a C3-10diol, preferably C4-8diol, and more preferably C4-6diol, comprising 2 hydroxy groups. It is preferable that the (b) diol having at least one carbon chain comprising 3 or more carbon atoms be selected from the group consisting of propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, butylene glycol, dibutylene glycol, polybutylene glycol, pentylene glycol, dipentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dihexylene glycol, and a mixture thereof.
[0088] It is more preferable that the (b) diol having at least one carbon chain comprising 3 or more carbon atoms be selected from the group consisting of propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and a mixture thereof.
[0089] It is even more preferable that the (b) diol having at least one carbon chain comprising 3 or more carbon atoms be selected from the group consisting of butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, and a mixture thereof.
[0090] As the (d) diol having at least one carbon chain comprising 3 or more carbon atoms, pentylene glycol is most preferable.
[0091] The amount of the (b) diol(s) in the composition according to the present invention is more than 10% by weight, preferably 15% by weight or more, and more preferably 20% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0092] The amount of the (b) diol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or less, preferably 45% by weight or less, and more preferably 40% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0093] The amount of the (b) diol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be more than 10% weight and 50% by weight or less, preferably from 15% to 45% by weight, and more preferably from 20% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0094] (Polyglyceryl Fatty Acid Ester)
[0095] The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of more than 5.0 and less than 14.5. Two or more such (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid esters may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of such (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester or a combination of different types of such (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid esters may be used.
[0096] The (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester can function as a surfactant, in particular a nonionic surfactant.
[0097] The (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may has an HLB value of more than 5.0 and less than 14.0, preferably from 5.5 to 13.0, and more preferably from 6.0 to 12.0, even more preferably 6.5 to 11.0, and particularly preferably from 7.0 to 10.0.
[0098] The term HLB ("hydrophilic-lipophilic balance") is well known to those skilled in the art, and reflects the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the molecule.
[0099] If two or more (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid esters are used, the HLB value is determined by the weighted average of the HLB values of all the (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid esters.
[0100] The (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be chosen from mono, di, tri and more esters of saturated or unsaturated fatty acid(s). It is preferable that the (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is selected from polyglyceryl fatty acid monoesters.
[0101] The (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester has at least one polyglycerol moiety derived from a plurality of glycerols. It is preferable that the (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester has one polyglycerol moiety.
[0102] The (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may have a polyglycerol moiety derived from 2 to 8 glycerols, preferably from 2 to 6 glycerols, more preferably from 2 to 4 glycerols, and even more preferably 2 glycerols. Thus, the (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may comprise from 2 to 8 glycerol units, preferably from 2 to 6 glycerol units, more preferably from 2 to 4 glycerol units, and even more preferably 2 glycerol units.
[0103] The (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid monoester has at least one fatty acid moiety derived from fatty acid. It is preferable that the (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester has one fatty acid moiety.
[0104] The fatty acid for the fatty acid moiety of the (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may comprise 6 or more carbon atoms, preferably 8 or more carbon atoms, and more preferably 10 or more carbon atoms. The fatty acid for the fatty acid moiety or the fatty acid moiety of the (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may comprise 28 or fewer carbon atoms, preferably 24 or fewer carbon atoms, and more preferably 20 or fewer carbon atoms. The fatty acid for the fatty acid moiety or the fatty acid moiety of the (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may have from 6 to 28, preferably from 8 to 24, and more preferably from 10 to 20 carbon atoms.
[0105] The fatty acid for the fatty acid moiety of the (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be linear or branched and / or saturated or unsaturated. The fatty acid for the fatty acid moiety of the (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be selected from caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, and arachidic acid.
[0106] In one embodiment, the (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester has at least one, preferably one, fatty acid moiety derived from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 28 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 10 to 20 carbon atoms.
[0107] The (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be selected from the group consisting of
[0108] PG2 caprate (HLB: 9.5) marketed by, for example, as Sunsoft Q-10D-C from Taiyo Kagaku Co., Ltd. in Japan,
[0109] PG2 laurate (HLB: 8.5) marketed by, for example, as Sunsoft Q-12D-C from Taiyo Kagaku Co., Ltd. in Japan,
[0110] PG2 stearate (HLB: 7.0) marketed by, for example, as Sunsoft W-18D-C from Taiyo Kagaku Co., Ltd. in Japan,
[0111] PG2 oleate (HLB: 7.0) marketed by, for example, as Sunsoft Q-17D-C from Taiyo Kagaku Co., Ltd. in Japan,
[0112] PG4 caprate (HLB: 11.9) marketed by, for example, as Glysurf 4MC from Aoki Oil Industrial Co., Ltd. in Japan,
[0113] PG4 laurate (HLB: 10.3) marketed by, for example, as Glysurf 4ML from Aoki Oil Industrial Co., Ltd. in Japan,
[0114] PG4 stearate (HLB: 8.4) marketed by, for example, as MS-3S by Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co., Ltd. in Japan,
[0115] PG4 isostearate (HLB: 8.2) marketed by, for example, as IS-401P by Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co., Ltd. in Japan,
[0116] PG4 oleate (HLB: 8.8) marketed by, for example, as MO-3S by Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co., Ltd. in Japan,
[0117] PG 5 myristate (HLB: 12.2) marketed by, for example, as Sunsoft A-141E-C from Taiyo Kagaku Co., Ltd. in Japan,
[0118] PG5 stearate (HLB: 12.9) marketed by, for example, as Sunsoft A- 181E-C from Taiyo Kagaku Co., Ltd. in Japan,
[0119] PG5 oleate (HLB: 12.7) marketed by, for example, as Sunsoft A-171E-C from Taiyo Kagaku Co., Ltd. in Japan,
[0120] PG6 caprylate (HLB: 13.0) marketed by, for example, as Sunsoft Q-81F-C from Taiyo Kagaku Co., Ltd. in Japan,
[0121] PG6 caprate (HLB: 13.7) marketed by, for example, as Glysurf 6MC from Aoki Oil Industrial Co., Ltd. in Japan,
[0122] PG6 laurate (HLB: 13.4) marketed by, for example, as ML-500 by Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co., Ltd. in Japan,
[0123] PG6 stearate (HLB: 11.6) marketed by, for example, as MS-5S by Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co., Ltd. in Japan,
[0124] PG6 isostearate (HLB: 10.8) marketed by, for example, as IS-601P by Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co., Ltd. in Japan,
[0125] PG6 oleate (HLB: 11.6) marketed by, for example, as MO-5S by Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co., Ltd. in Japan, and
[0126] PG 10 oleate (HLB: 12.9) marketed by, for example, as MO-7S by Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co., Ltd. in Japan, and
[0127] a mixture thereof. It is preferable that the (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester be selected from the group consisting of PG2 oleate (HLB: 7), PG2 laurate (HLB: 8.5), PG2 caprate (HLB: 9.5), PG2 stearate (HLB: 7.0), and a mixture thereof.
[0128] It is more preferable that the (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester be selected from the group consisting of PG2 oleate (HLB: 7.0), PG2 laurate (HLB: 8.5), PG2 caprate (HLB: 9.5), and a mixture thereof.
[0129] It is even more preferable that the (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester be selected from the group consisting of PG2 oleate (HLB: 7.0), PG2 laurate (HLB: 8.5), and a mixture thereof.
[0130] The amount of the (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention is 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0131] The amount of the (b) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0132] The amount of the (b) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 15% by weight or less, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0133] (Water)
[0134] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (d) water.
[0135] In one embodiment, the (d) water can constitute an aqueous phase which can be, for example, a continuous phase in the composition according to the present invention.
[0136] The amount of the (d) water may be 45% by weight or more, preferably 50% by weight or more, and more preferably 55% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0137] The amount of the (d) water may be 95% by weight or less, preferably 85% by weight or less, and more preferably 75% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. The amount of the (d) water may be from 45% to 95% by weight, preferably from 50% to 85% by weight, and more preferably from 55% to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0138] (Oil)
[0139] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (e) at least one oil. Two or more oils may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of oil or a combination of different types of oils may be used.
[0140] Here, “oil” means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (non-solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As the oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0141] The (e) oil is different from the (a) N-acyl amino acid ester.
[0142] In one embodiment, the (e) oil can constitute a fatty phase which can be, for example, discontinuous phases or dispersed phases in the composition according to the present invention.
[0143] The (e) oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil; a polar oil such as a plant or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.
[0144] The (e) oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of plant or animal origin, synthetic oils, hydrocarbon oils, and fatty alcohols.
[0145] As examples of plant oils, mention may be made of, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and a mixture thereof.
[0146] The (e) oil is different from essential oil. The term “essential oil” here means a volatile and aromatic oil extracted from plants, for example, flowers, leaves, fruits or the like of plants. As examples of animal oils, mention may be made of, for example, squalene and squalane. As examples of synthetic oils, mention may be made of alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.
[0147] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci- C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
[0148] Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.
[0149] Among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, and isostearyl neopentanoate.
[0150] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic, or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy, or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
[0151] Mention may especially be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; and diethylene glycol diisononanoate.
[0152] As ester oils, one can use sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. It is recalled that the term “sugar” means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.
[0153] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
[0154] The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the group consisting of the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds. The esters according to this variant may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
[0155] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleopalmitate, oleostearate, and palmitostearate mixed esters, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.
[0156] More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and especially sucrose, glucose, or methylglucose monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates, and oleostearates.
[0157] An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0158] As examples of preferable ester oils, mention may be made of, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrithyl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and a mixture thereof.
[0159] As examples of artificial triglycerides, mention may be made of, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate), and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).
[0160] The hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from:
[0161] linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C6-C16 lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane; and
[0162] linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam®, and squalane.
[0163] As preferable examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, and decene / butene copolymers; and mixtures thereof.
[0164] The term “fatty” in the fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols which have 6 or more, preferably 8 or more, and more preferably 10 or more carbon atoms are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. The fatty alcohol may be saturated or unsaturated. The fatty alcohol may be linear or branched. The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH wherein R is chosen from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 28 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 10 to 26 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be chosen from C12-C24 alkyl and C12-C24 alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.
[0165] As examples of the fatty alcohol, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, decyltetradecanol, and a mixture thereof.
[0166] It may be preferable that the fatty alcohol be selected from the group consisting of isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof.
[0167] The (e) oil may be chosen from oils with a molecular weight below 600 g / mol.
[0168] Preferably, the (e) oil has a low molecular weight such as below 600 g / mol, chosen from among ester oils with a short hydrocarbon chain or chains (C1-C12) (e.g., isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, and ethyl hexyl palmitate), hydrocarbon oils (e.g., isododecane, isohexadecane, and squalane), branched and / or unsaturated fatty alcohols (C12-C30) type oils such as octyldodecanol and oleyl alcohol, and ether oils such as dicaprylyl ether.
[0169] It is preferable that the (e) oil be chosen from polar oils, and more preferably from ester oils. The amount of the (e) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 2% by weight or more, and more preferably 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0170] The amount of the (e) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0171] The amount of the (e) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 2% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the amount of the (e) oil is limited. For example, the amount of the (e) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.5% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. In this embodiment, the composition according to the present invention may include no (e) oil.
[0172] (PH)
[0173] The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be from 3 to 8, preferably from 3.5 to 7.5, and more preferably from 4 to 7.
[0174] The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be adjusted by adding at least one alkaline agent and / or at least one acid. The pH of the composition according to the present invention may also be adjusted by adding at least one buffering agent.
[0175] (Optional Ingredient)
[0176] The composition according to the present invention may comprise, in addition to the aforementioned ingredients, one or more optional ingredients typically employed in cosmetics, specifically, one or more optional ingredients selected from cationic, anionic, and amphoteric surfactants; nonionic surfactants other than the (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester; hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, derived from, for example, synthetic polymers; volatile or non-volatile organic solvents; cationic, anionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers; natural extracts derived from animals or vegetables other than the (e) oil; waxes; and the like, within a range which does not impair the effects of the present invention.
[0177] The composition according to the present invention may comprise the above optional ingredient(s) in an amount of from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0178] (Embodiments)
[0179] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition used in the process according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:
[0180] from 0.01% to 20% by weight of (a) at least one N-acyl amino acid ester;
[0181] more than 10% weight and 50% by weight or less of (b) at least one diol having at least one carbon chain comprising 3 or more carbon atoms; and
[0182] from 0.1% to 15% by weight of (c) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of more than 5.0 and less than 14.0.
[0183] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:
[0184] from 0.05% to 15% by weight of (a’) at least one N-acyl amino acid ester
[0185] represented by the following general formula (1):
[0186] R2-N(R5)-CH(R6)-(CH2)n-COO-R3(1)
[0187] wherein
[0188] R2represents a linear or branched acyl group having 4 to 30, preferably 5 to 26, and more preferably 6 to 22 carbon atoms,
[0189] R3represents a branched alkyl group having 3 to 10, preferably 3 to 8, and more preferably 3 to 6 carbon atoms,
[0190] R5represents a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms,
[0191] R6represents a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms which may be substituted with a hydroxy group or a phenyl group, and
[0192] n represents an integer from 0 to 2;
[0193] from 15% to 45% by weight of (b’) at least one diol having at least one carbon chain comprising 3 to 10 carbon atoms; and
[0194] from 0.5% to 10% by weight of (c’) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid monoester having an HLB value of more than 5.5 and less than 13.0.
[0195] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:
[0196] from 0.1% to 10% by weight of (a”) isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate;
[0197] from 20% to 40% by weight of (b”) butylene glycol and / or pentylene glycol; and
[0198] from 1% to 5% by weight of (c”) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of more than 6.0 and less than 12.0, selected from the group consisting of propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, butylene glycol, dibutylene glycol, polybutylene glycol, pentylene glycol, dipentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dihexylene glycol, and a mixture thereof.
[0199] (Preparation)
[0200] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredients as explained above, and optional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above. The method and means to mix the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.
[0201] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by simple or easy mixing with a conventional mixing means such as a stirrer and a homogenizer. Also, heating may not be necessary. Therefore, the process for preparing the composition according to the present invention may be environmentally friendly.
[0202] (Form)
[0203] The composition according to the present invention may be present in any form.
[0204] If the composition according to the present invention includes (d) water, the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of an aqueous solution, a gel, a suspension, a dispersion, and the like.
[0205] As the (a) N-acyl amino acid ester may function as an oil, if the composition according to the present invention includes (d) water, the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a dispersion or emulsion such as an O / W dispersion or emulsion. For example, the (d) water can form an aqueous phase while the (a) N-acyl amino acid ester may form fatty phases, and the fatty phases can be dispersed in the aqueous phase. If the composition according to the present invention includes (d) water and (e) oil, the (d) water can form an aqueous phase and the (e) oil can form fatty phases, and the fatty phases can be dispersed in the aqueous phase. Thus, the aqueous phase can function as a continuous phase, and the fatty phase can function as a dispersed phase. In other words, the composition according to the present invention can be of the O / W type such as an O / W dispersion and an O / W emulsion. If the composition according to the present invention is of the O / W type, it can provide a fresh sensation due to the (d) water which forms the outer phase thereof.
[0206] The composition according to the present invention can be thermodynamically stable, and may be considered as a single phase composition.
[0207] The composition according to the present invention can have a transparent or slightly translucent appearance, preferably a transparent appearance.
[0208] The transparency may be assessed by measuring the turbidity (for example, turbidity can be measured with a 2100Q (marketed by HACH) having a round cell (25 mm in diameter and 60 mm height) and a tungsten filament lamp which can emit visible light (between 400 and 800 nm, preferably from 400 to 500 nm). The measurement can be performed on the undiluted composition. The blank may be determined with distilled water.
[0209] The composition according to the present invention may preferably have a turbidity of less than 50 NTU, preferably less than 40 NTU, more preferably less than 30 NTU, and even more preferably less than 20 NTU.
[0210] (Cosmetic Application)
[0211] The composition according to the present invention may be intended to be used as a cosmetic composition. Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be intended for application onto a keratin material. Keratin material here means a material containing keratin as a main constituent element, and examples thereof include the skin, scalp, nails, lips, hair, and the like. Thus, it is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention be used for a cosmetic process for a keratin material, in particular skin. Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be a skin cosmetic composition, preferably a skin care composition or a skin makeup composition, and more preferably a skin care composition.
[0212] [Cosmetic Process and Use]
[0213] Hereinafter, the cosmetic process and use according to the present invention will be explained.
[0214] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for a keratin material such as skin, comprising applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin material.
[0215] The cosmetic process here means a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for caring for a keratin material such as skin. The present invention may also relate to a use of a combination of
[0216] (a) at least one N-acyl amino acid ester;
[0217] (b) at least one diol having at least one carbon chain comprising 3 or more carbon atoms;
[0218] and
[0219] (c) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of more than 5.0 and less than 14.0,
[0220] in a composition
[0221] wherein
[0222] the amount of the (b) diol having at least one carbon chain comprising 3 or more carbon atoms in the composition is more than 10% by weight, preferably 15% by weight or more, and more preferably 20% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition, in order to stabilize the composition and have the composition being capable of providing sufficient moisturizing effects, less stickiness, and glow.
[0223] The above composition may comprise any one of (d) water and (e) at least one oil.
[0224] The above explanations regarding the (a) N-acyl amino acid ester, the (b) diol having at least one carbon chain comprising 3 or more carbon atoms, and the (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of more than 5.0 and less than 14.0, as well as optional ingredients such as the (d) water and the (e) oil, can apply to those in the above use.
[0225] EXAMPLES
[0226] The present invention will be described in a more detailed manner by way of examples.
[0227] However, they should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.
[0228] Examples 1-6 and Comparative Examples 1-6
[0229] [Preparation]
[0230] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1-6 and Comparative Examples 1-6 was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1 at room temperature (25°C). The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients in Table 1 are all based on “% by weight” as active materials. Table 1
[0231] Comp. Comp. Comp. Comp. Comp. Comp. Ex* 1 Ex, 2 Ex.3 Ex.4 Ex. 5 Ex* C?
[0232] Ex. 1 Ex.2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Ex. 5 Ex.6 PG-2 Isostearate (HLB: 5) - - - - - - — - 3 - PG-2 Oleate (HLB: 7.0) 3 - 3 3 3 1.5 3 3 3 3 - PG-2 Laurate (HLB: 8.5) 3 « 1.5 - *- PG-6 Caprylate (HLB: 14.6) w - - •» 3 Isopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate 2 2 2 1 3 2 * •* 2 2 2 Octyl Dodecanol * - - - - ** 2 - * * Capiydic / Capric / Succinic
[0233] — * “ 2 - - - Triglyceride
[0234] Pentylene Glycol 20 20 17 20 20 16 20 20 20 10 20 20 Butylene Glycol - 3 - - 4 - - * - - qsp qsp qsp qsp qsp qsp qsp qsp qsp qsp qsp qsp Water
[0235] 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 Aspect Good Good Good Good Good Good Poor Poor Good Poor Poor Poor Turbidity Good Good Good Good Good Good Poor Poor Good Poor Poor Poor Stability Good Good Good Good Good Good Poor Poor Good Poor Poor Poor Moisturizing Feeling 4 4 4 3 5 4 NA NA 2 NA NA NA Stickiness 2 2 2 3 2 2 NA NA 5 NA NA NA
[0236]
[0237] Glow 4 4 4 2 5 4 NA NA 1 NA NA NA NA: Not Available
[0238] PG: Polyglycerl [Evaluations]
[0239] (Aspect)
[0240] The aspects of each of the compositions according to Examples 1-6 and Comparative Examples 1-6 were evaluated by visual observation of the composition one day after the preparation thereof, based on the following criteria.
[0241] Good: Uniform
[0242] Poor: Non-Uniform (phase separation was observed)
[0243] The results are shown in the row labeled “Aspect” in Table 1.
[0244] (Turbidity)
[0245] The turbidities of each of the compositions according to Examples 1-6 and Comparative Examples 1-6 one day after the preparation thereof were evaluated by a 2100Q (Hach Company) at room temperature (25 °C), and evaluated in accordance with the following criteria.
[0246] Good: Less than 50
[0247] Poor: 50 or more
[0248] The results are shown in the row labeled “Turbidity” in Table 1.
[0249] (Stability)
[0250] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1-6 and Comparative Examples 1-6 was filled into a glass bottle and was held at a room temperature (25 °C) for 1 day. Each sample was then investigated with regard to transparency, and evaluated in accordance with the following criteria:
[0251] Good: Transparent
[0252] Poor: Not transparent
[0253] The results are shown in the row labeled “Stability” in Table 1.
[0254] Next, the moisturizing feeling, stickiness and glow of the compositions according to Examples 1-6 and Comparative Example 3 were evaluated as follows.
[0255] The compositions according to Comparative Examples 1, 2 and 4-6 could not be subjected to the above texture evaluations, because they were not stable.
[0256] (Moisturizing Feeling)
[0257] Panelists evaluated the “moisturizing feeling” after applying the compositions according to Examples 1-6 and Comparative Example 3. The panelist took each composition with her hands, then applied it onto the face to evaluate the moisturizing feeling during application, and scored it from 1 (no moisturizing feeling) to 5 (strong moisturizing feeling). Scores of 3 or more correspond to sufficient moisturizing feeling or moisturizing effects. The results are shown in the row labeled “Moisturizing Feeling” in Table 1.
[0258] (Stickiness)
[0259] Panelists evaluated the “stickiness” after application of the compositions according to Examples 1-6 and Comparative Example 3. The panelist took each composition with her hands, then applied it onto the face to evaluate the stickiness during application, and scored it from 1 (not sticky) to 5 (very sticky).
[0260] The results are shown in the row labeled “Stickiness” in Table 1.
[0261] (Glow)
[0262] Panelists evaluated the “glow” after application of the compositions according to Examples 1-6 and Comparative Example 3. The panelist took each composition with her hands, then applied it onto the face to evaluate the glow after application, and scored it from 1 (not glowing) to 5 (strongly glowing).
[0263] The results are shown in the row labeled “Glow” in Table 1.
[0264] (Summary)
[0265] The compositions according to Examples 1-6 were stable, and provided sufficient moisturizing feeling, less stickiness, and glow. The compositions according to Examples 1-6 were in the form of a fine O / W emulsion.
[0266] The composition according to Comparative Example 1 was not stable because it included fatty alcohol (octyl dodecanol) instead of N-acyl amino acid ester (isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate).
[0267] The composition according to Comparative Example 2 was not stable because it included triglyceride (caprylic / capric / triglyceride) instead of N-acyl amino acid ester (isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate).
[0268] The composition according to Comparative Example 3 was stable but could not provide sufficient moisturizing feeling, less stickiness, and glow because it did not include N-acyl amino acid ester (isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate).
[0269] The composition according to Comparative Example 4 was not stable because it included a limited amount of diol having at least one carbon chain comprising 3 or more carbon atoms (pentylene glycol).
[0270] The composition according to Comparative Example 5 was not stable because it included a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 5 (polyglyceryl-2 isostearate) instead of a poly glyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of more than 5 and less than 14 (polyglyceryl-2 oleate or polyglyceryl-2 laurate).
[0271] The composition according to Comparative Example 6 was not stable because it included a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 14.6 (polyglyceryl-6 caprylate) instead of a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of more than 5 and less than 14 (polyglyceryl-2 oleate or polyglyceryl-2 laurate).
Claims
CLAIMS1. A composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a skin cosmetic composition, comprising:(a) at least one N-acyl amino acid ester;(b) at least one diol having at least one carbon chain comprising 3 or more carbon atoms; and(c) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of more than 5.0 and less than 14.0,whereinthe amount of the (b) diol having at least one carbon chain comprising 3 or more carbon atoms in the composition is more than 10% by weight, preferably 15% by weight or more, and more preferably 20% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
2. The composition according to Claim 1, wherein the (a) N-acyl amino acid ester is represented by the following general formula (1):R2-N(R5)-CH(R6)-(CH2)n-COO-R3(1)whereinR2represents a linear or branched acyl group having 4 to 30, preferably 5 to 26, and more preferably 6 to 22 carbon atoms,R3represents a branched alkyl group having 3 to 10, preferably 3 to 8, and more preferably 3 to 6 carbon atoms,R5represents a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms,R6represents a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms which may be substituted with a hydroxy group or a phenyl group, and n represents an integer from 0 to 2.
3. The composition according to Claim 1 or 2, wherein the (a) N-acyl amino acid ester is selected from the group consisting of N-capryloyl sarcosine isopropyl ester, N- caproyl sarcosine isopropyl ester, N-lauroyl sarcosine isopropyl ester, N-cocoyl sarcosine isopropyl ester, N-myristoyl sarcosine isopropyl ester, N-palmitoyl sarcosine isopropyl ester, N-stearoyl sarcosine isopropyl ester, N-capryloyl sarcosine isobutyl ester, N-caproyl sarcosine isobutyl ester, N-lauroyl sarcosine isobutyl ester, N-cocoyl sarcosine isobutyl ester, N-myristoyl sarcosine isobutyl ester, N-palmitoyl sarcosine isobutyl ester, N-stearoyl sarcosine isobutyl ester, N-capryloyl glycine isopropyl ester, N-caproyl glycine isopropyl ester, N-lauroyl glycine isopropyl ester, N-cocoyl glycine isopropyl ester, N-myristoyl glycine isopropyl ester, N-palmitoyl glycine isopropyl ester, N-stearoyl glycine isopropyl ester, N-capryloyl alanine isopropyl ester, N-caproyl alanine isopropyl ester, N-lauroyl alanine isopropyl ester, N-cocoyl alanine isopropyl ester, N-myristoyl alanine isopropyl ester, N- palmitoylalanine isopropyl ester, N-stearoylalanine isopropyl ester, N-lauroyl-β-alanine isopropyl ester, N-lauroyl-N-methyl-β-alanine isopropyl ester, N-cocoyl-N-methyl-β-alanine isopropyl ester, and a mixture thereof.
4. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, wherein the amount of the (a) N-acyl amino acid ester(s) in the composition is from 0.01% to 20% by weight,preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, wherein the (b) diol has at least one carbon chain comprising from 3 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 8 carbon atoms, and more preferably 4 to 6 carbon atoms.
6. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, wherein the (b) diol having at least one carbon chain comprising 3 or more carbon atoms is selected from the group consisting of propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, butylene glycol, dibutylene glycol, polybutylene glycol, pentylene glycol, dipentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dihexylene glycol, and a mixture thereof.
7. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, wherein the amount of the (b) diol(s) having at least one carbon chain comprising 3 or more carbon atoms in the composition is 30% by weight or less, preferably 35% by weight or less, and more preferably 20% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, wherein the (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is selected from polyglyceryl fatty acid monoesters.
9. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, wherein the (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester comprises from 2 to 8 glycerol units, preferably from 2 to 6 glycerol units, more preferably from 2 to 4 glycerol units, and even more preferably 2 glycerol units.
10. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, wherein the (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester has at least one fatty acid moiety derived from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 28 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 10 to 20 carbon atoms.
11. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, wherein the (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is selected from the group consisting of PG2 oleate, PG2 laurate, PG2 caprate, PG2 stearate and a mixture thereof.
12. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 11, wherein the amount of the (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) in the composition is from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
13. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 12, wherein the composition further comprises (d) water.
14. The composition according to Claim 13, wherein the amount of the (d) water in the composition is from 45% to 95% by weight, more preferably from 50% to 85% by weight, and even more preferably from 55% to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
15. A cosmetic process for a keratin material such as skin, comprising applying the composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 14 to the keratin material.