Skin cell longevity cosmetic composition

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition comprising a combination of at least 2 cosmetic active agents, said combination of active agents directly or indirectly protecting the stability of DNA, preventing epigenetic modifications, in particular those affecting the expression of the genes involved in the maintenance of skin integrity, preventing or reducing microinflammatory processes, and preventing or reducing mitochondrial dysfunctions and / or stimulating mitochondrial energy metabolism, in the cells of the skin It also relates to the cosmetic use of such a composition for increasing the longevity of skin cells and skin tissues, for directly or indirectly protecting the stability of DNA, preventing epigenetic modifications, preventing or reducing microinflammatory processes, and preventing or reducing mitochondrial dysfunctions and / or stimulating mitochondrial energy metabolism, in the cells of the skin. Lastly, it relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, comprising the topical application of such a composition.

Description

[0001] Description

[0002] Title: Skin cell longevity cosmetic composition

[0003] Technical field

[0004] The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising a combination of at least 2 cosmetic active agents, said combination of active agents:

[0005] - directly or indirectly protecting the stability of DNA, and

[0006] - preventing epigenetic modifications, in particular those affecting the expression of the genes involved in the maintenance of skin integrity, and

[0007] - preventing or reducing microinflammatory processes, and

[0008] - preventing or reducing mitochondrial dysfunctions and / or stimulating mitochondrial energy metabolism,

[0009] in the cells of the skin.

[0010] The application also relates to the utilization of such a composition in cosmetic uses and processes.

[0011] Prior art

[0012] Aging is characterized by a progressive decline in physiological functions, originating at the cellular level. Longevity, defined as the ability of a cell to maintain its integrity and functions over an extended period of time, depends on the integrity of various cellular processes. The cellular processes involved in longevity are constantly challenged by a multitude of stress factors, leading to progressive deterioration and the appearance of cellular and tissue damage.

[0013] The skin, the organ most exposed to environmental factors (UV rays, pollution, etc.), undergoes accelerated aging known as extrinsic aging in addition to the intrinsic aging associated with age. These processes affect the cells of the epidermis, of the dermis and of the skin appendages, and also the extracellular matrix.

[0014] The hallmarks of cellular aging are major biological characteristics identified as fundamental causes of aging and the associated deteriorations. These hallmarks were initially described by Lopez-Otin et al. (The hallmarks of aging, Cell. 2013 Jun 6; 153(6): 1194-217. doi: 10.1016 / j .cell.2013.05.039).In particular, nine hallmarks of aging have been identified and associated with molecular and cellular mechanisms that are potentially targets of aging and involved in skin deterioration.

[0015] The inventors have observed that these hallmarks, or biological causes of aging, are characteristic of the age of the individuals. Thus, depending on their age, in order to combat cellular aging, an individual should target the characteristic hallmarks of their biological age. The inventors have therefore identified several categories of individuals to which specific hallmarks have been attributed.

[0016] An "anticipation" strategy applied to cell longevity is particularly relevant for individuals 25 to 35 years old. At this age, the first signs of aging start to appear, often exacerbated by external factors such as pollution, UV rays and oxidative stress. Anticipation consists in proactively intervening before cell damage becomes irreversible, by reinforcing the skin's natural defense mechanisms and optimizing the cellular processes in order to maintain their integrity and functionality over the long term.

[0017] The inventors have thus identified a combination of four hallmarks that are specifically important to target in the maintenance of cell longevity in individuals 20 to 40 years old. The four priority hallmarks to target in this category of individuals are thus: DNA instability, epigenetic changes, chronic inflammation and mitochondrial dysfunctions.

[0018] There is therefore a need for a combination of active agents capable of simultaneously regulating these four hallmarks in order to prevent the deregulations of the cutaneous cellular mechanisms that deteriorate with age.

[0019] This holistic approach makes it possible to optimize cell longevity, guarantee good skin homeostasis, and ensure the protection and quality of the skin, for consumers 20 to 40 years old, in particular consumers 25 to 35 years old.

[0020] In this context, it is also important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of starting materials that are renewable and / or that have a good naturality index and / or that are of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin, while at the same time reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.

[0021] Disclosure of the inventionThe aim of the present invention is to solve at least one abovementioned technical problem. Specifically, the inventors have now discovered that a composition comprising at least two active agents according to the invention makes it possible to act simultaneously on all of the hallmarks of interest, in particular of interest for an individual less than 40 years old, and in particular between 20 and 40 years old. In particular, the inventors have discovered that a composition comprising a combination of at least two active agents according to the invention makes it possible:

[0022] (i) to directly or indirectly protect the stability of DNA,

[0023] (ii) to prevent epigenetic modifications, in particular those affecting the expression of the genes involved in the maintenance of skin integrity,

[0024] (iii) to prevent or reduce microinflammatory processes, and

[0025] (iv) to prevent or reduce mitochondrial dysfunctions and / or stimulate mitochondrial energy metabolism, in the cells of the skin.

[0026] Summary of the invention

[0027] As mentioned above, the present invention thus relates to a composition, in particular cosmetic composition, comprising a combination of at least 2, in particular at least 3, more particularly at least 4 cosmetic active agents, said combination of active agents:

[0028] - directly or indirectly protecting the stability of DNA, and

[0029] - preventing epigenetic modifications, in particular those affecting the expression of the genes involved in the maintenance of skin integrity, and

[0030] - preventing or reducing microinflammatory processes, and

[0031] - preventing or reducing mitochondrial dysfunctions and / or stimulating mitochondrial energy metabolism,

[0032] in the cells of the skin.

[0033] According to a particular embodiment, at least one of the cosmetic active agents is selected from:

[0034] active agents which directly or indirectly protect the stability of DNA in the cells of the skin, selected from the group consisting of merocyanines of formula (I), and also the EZE or E / Z geometric isomer forms thereof and tautomers thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates:

[0035]

[0036] resveratrol and derivatives thereof and also the geometric isomer forms thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates or a mixture thereof; vitamin E and derivatives thereof, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof or mixtures thereof; ectoin; Punica granatum extract; ferulic acid; an amino sulfonic acid, in particular taurine; and combinations thereof,

[0037] active agents which prevent epigenetic modifications in the cells of the skin, in particular those affecting the expression of the genes involved in the maintenance of skin integrity, selected from the group consisting of a Calendula officinalis flower extract; merocyanines of formula (I), and also the EZE or E / Z geometric isomer forms thereof and tautomers thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates:

[0038]

[0039] (I), in which:

[0040] A is — O- or -NH;

[0041] R is a C1-C22 alkyl group, a C2-C22 alkenyl group, a C2-C22 alkynyl group, a C3-C22 cycloalkyl group or a C3-C22 cycloalkenyl group, it being possible for said groups to be interrupted by one or more O;

[0042] ascorbic acid, in particular vitamin C, and derivatives thereof, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof or mixtures thereof; resveratrol and derivatives thereof and also the geometric isomer forms thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates or a mixture thereof, vitamin E and derivatives thereof, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof or mixtures thereof; and combinations thereof,

[0043] cosmetic active agents which prevent or reduce microinflammatory processes in the cells of the skin, selected from the group consisting of an extract of Centenella asiatica titrated with asiaticoside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid; vitamin B3 and / or a derivative thereof and / or a salt thereof; 4-(3 -ethoxy -4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one; resveratrol and derivatives thereof and also the geometric isomer forms thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates or a mixture thereof;an extract of Inula helenium: and combinations thereof, cosmetic active agents which prevent or reduce mitochondrial dysfunctions and / or stimulate mitochondrial energy metabolism in the cells of the skin, selected from the group consisting of resveratrol and derivatives thereof; capryloylsalicylic acid and / or a salt thereof; vitamins Bl, B3, B6 and B9 and derivatives thereof, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof or mixtures thereof; ionized magnesium Mg2+; Punica granatum extract; an amino sulfonic acid, in particular taurine; and combinations thereof.

[0044] In particular, at least one of the cosmetic active agents is ectoin.

[0045] According to a particular embodiment, at least one of the cosmetic active agents is selected, independently, from the group consisting of:

[0046] resveratrol, and / or a resveratrol derivative, such as resveratrol triphosphate or polydatin, and also the geometric isomer forms thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates or a mixture thereof;

[0047] - the merocyanines of formula (I), and also the EZE or E / Z geometric isomer forms thereof and tautomers thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates:

[0048]

[0049] (i);

[0050] - tocopherol, or a derivative thereof, in particular selected from the group consisting of tocopherol esters, such as tocopheryl acetate, tocopheryl palmitate, tocopheryl linoleate, and tocopheryl nicotinate, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof or mixtures thereof; and

[0051] ascorbic acid, in particular vitamin C, or a derivative thereof, in particular selected from the group consisting of ascorbic acid; sodium ascorbate; liposoluble esters, in particular tetrahexyl decyl ascorbate or ascorbyl palmitate; magnesium ascorbyl phosphate; ascorbyl glucoside; glucosamine ascorbate; and ascorbyl acetate, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof or mixtures thereof.

[0052] In particular, the combination according to the invention comprises:ectoin; and

[0053] resveratrol, and / or a resveratrol derivative such as resveratrol triphosphate or polydatin; and

[0054] a merocyanine of formula (I), and also the EZE or E / Z geometric isomer forms thereof and tautomers thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates:

[0055]

[0056] (I); and

[0057] - tocopherol, or a derivative thereof, in particular selected from the group consisting of tocopherol esters, such as tocopheryl acetate, tocopheryl palmitate, tocopheryl linoleate, and tocopheryl nicotinate, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof or mixtures thereof; and

[0058] ascorbic acid, or a derivative thereof, in particular selected from the group consisting of ascorbic acid; sodium ascorbate; liposoluble esters, in particular tetrahexyl decyl ascorbate or ascorbyl palmitate; magnesium ascorbyl phosphate; ascorbyl glucoside; glucosamine ascorbate; and ascorbyl acetate, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof or mixtures thereof.

[0059] According to a particular embodiment, the merocyanine(s) of formula (I) and also the EZE or E / Z geometric isomer forms thereof and tautomers thereof is (are) selected from the compounds of formula (I) and also the geometric isomer forms thereof, tautomers thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates in which: A is -O-; R is a C1-C22 alkyl, better still R is a C1-C6 alkyl, which may be interrupted by one or more O.

[0060] In particular, the merocyanine(s) of formula (I) is (are) selected from the following compounds, and also the EZE geometric isomer forms thereof, and tautomers thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates:

[0061] [Table 1]

[0062] >

[0063]

[0064]

[0065] In particular, the merocyanine of formula (I) is 2-ethoxyethyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-l-ylidene} ethanoate in the E / Z geometric configuration thereof having the following structure and also the tautomers thereof:

[0066]

[0067] (Formula 25)

[0068] and / or in the EZE geometric configuration thereof having the following structure:

[0069]

[0070] According to one embodiment, the combination comprises at least resveratrol.

[0071] According to one embodiment, the combination comprises at least 2-ethoxyethyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-l-ylidene}ethanoate.

[0072] According to one embodiment, the combination comprises at least tocopherol, and in particular comprises vitamin E.According to one embodiment, the combination comprises at least ascorbic acid, in particular vitamin C.

[0073] According to a particular embodiment, the combination comprises at least one amino sulfonic acid, in particular selected from the group consisting of aminomethanesulfonic acid, 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid (taurine), aminopropanesulfonic acid, aminobutanesulfonic acid, aminohexanesulfonic acid, aminoisopropylsulfonic acid, aminododecylsulfonic acid, aminobenzenesulfonic acid, aminotoluenesulfonic acid, sulfanilic acid, chlorosulfanilic acid, diaminobenzenesulfonic acid, aminophenolsulfonic acid, aminopropylbenzenesulfonic acid, aminohexylbenzenesulfonic acid, and a mixture thereof, and in particular is taurine. The present invention also relates to the cosmetic use, in particular topical cosmetic use, of a composition according to the invention, for increasing the longevity of skin cells and skin tissues, in particular in an individual less than 40 years old, in particular 20 to 40 years old. It moreover relates to the cosmetic use, in particular topical cosmetic use, of a composition according to the invention, for:

[0074] - directly or indirectly protecting the stability of DNA, and

[0075] - preventing epigenetic modifications, in particular those affecting the expression of the genes involved in the maintenance of skin integrity, and

[0076] - preventing or reducing microinflammatory processes, and

[0077] - preventing or reducing mitochondrial dysfunctions and / or stimulating mitochondrial energy metabolism,

[0078] in the cells of the skin.

[0079] Lastly, it relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the topical application to these keratin materials of a composition according to the invention.

[0080] Description of the figures

[0081] Figure 1 shows a linear mixed model of the variation in skin firmness (in %) relative to a baseline value (performance threshold) as a function of time (in days) with measurements of the skin firmness being taken at DO (first day of use), at D28 (after 28 days of use), at D84 (after 84 days of use) and atD98 (after 15 days of persistent effect) for a formula comprising vitamin C alone (diamond curve) and for a formula comprising vitamin C and 1% compound25 (the compound 2-ethoxy ethyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-l-ylidene} ethanoate) (circle curve).

[0082] Figure 2 shows a linear mixed model of the variation in non-echogenic surface area (in %) relative to a baseline value as a function of time (in days) with values of the non-echogenic surface area being taken at DO (first day of use), at D28 (after 28 days of use), at D84 (after 84 days of use) and at D98 (after 15 days of persistent effect) for a formula comprising vitamin C alone (diamond curve) and for a formula comprising vitamin C and 1% 2-ethoxyethyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-l-ylidene}ethanoate) (called compound 25 in the examples) (circle curve) according to the invention.

[0083] Figure 3 shows the variation in oxygen consumption rate (in pmol / min) as a function of time (in minutes) of cells in a control medium (circle curve), in a medium comprising ectoin at a concentration of 1.1 mg / ml (diamond curve), in a medium comprising ectoin at a concentration of 3.3 mg / ml (triangle curve) and in a medium comprising ectoin at a concentration of 10.0 mg / ml (square curve).

[0084] Detailed description

[0085] The term "cosmetic" is understood to mean a composition that is compatible with keratin materials, in particular the skin, the mucous membranes and the skin integuments. The composition according to the invention is non-therapeutic. The composition of the invention comprises in particular a "cosmetically acceptable" medium, also known as a "physiologically acceptable" medium, i.e. a medium that is compatible with all keratin materials, in particular the skin.

[0086] The term "keratin materials" is in particular understood to denote the skin, mucous membranes, fibers, eyelashes and skin appendages.

[0087] The term "the skin" is understood to mean all of the skin of the body, and preferably the skin of the face, the scalp, the neckline, the neck, the arms and forearms, the eyelids, around the mouth or behind the ears, the hollow of the elbow, the back of the knees, the hands, the wrists and the ankles, or more preferably still the skin of the face (in particular the forehead, nose, cheeks and chin), the neckline and the neck.

[0088] A composition according to the invention may comprise a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. one which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not give rise to any unacceptable discomfort, i.e. tingling, tautness or redness, that is liable to discourage theuser from applying this composition. Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose a physiologically acceptable medium such that the advantageous properties of the cosmetic active agent(s) of the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected.

[0089] The term "protecting the stability of DNA" refers to the employment of a set of mechanisms, actions or interventions aimed at preserving the structural and functional integrity of DNA within the cells, by limiting or preventing alterations such as strand breaks, mutations, chemical modifications (such as oxidation or abnormal methylation), or dysfunctions in DNA repair processes. This protection may be ensured by agents acting directly or indirectly on DNA or on the cellular pathways involved in its maintenance.

[0090] The term "reduce" or "reduction" is understood in the context of the present invention to mean the reduction in the risk or probability of occurrence of a given phenomenon, in particular relative to a "normal" situation, that is to say in the absence of application of the composition according to the invention.

[0091] In the context of the present invention, the terms "prevent" and "prevention" denote the reduction, to a lesser degree, of the risk or probability of occurrence of a given phenomenon. "Cell longevity" is understood to mean the ability of cells to maintain their functions and viability over time, despite environmental or metabolic stresses and damage. This longevity depends on specific biological mechanisms that protect the cells from aging, premature death or dysfunctions. However, cellular aging is inevitable and is associated with progressive changes in cellular functions and structure.

[0092] In the text which follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within that range, in particular in the expressions "between..." and "ranging from ... to ...”.

[0093] The term "alkyl" is understood to mean a linear or branched (Cx-Cy)-type monovalent saturated hydrocarbon group comprising from x carbon atoms to y carbon atoms, for example, a Ci-C6alkyl implies a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms. Preferably, the alkyl group is a C1-C4 group such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, i-propyl, butyl, i-butyl ort-butyl.

[0094] The term "alkenyl" is understood to mean a linear or branched (Cx-Cy)-type monovalent unsaturated hydrocarbon group comprising from x carbon atoms to y carbon atoms, comprising one or more conjugated or non-conjugated unsaturations, preferably from 1 to 3double bonds, for example a C2-C22 alkenyl implies a linear or branched alkenyl group comprising from 2 to 22 carbon atoms and comprising one or more unsaturations, preferably from 1 to 3 double bonds.

[0095] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fatty substance" is understood to mean an organic compound that is immiscible in water at ordinary temperature (20°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility of less than 5%, and preferably less than 1%, more preferentially still less than 0.1%); in addition, the fatty substances are miscible in particular in all proportions in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance in halogenated solvents such as chloroform or dichloromethane, lower alcohols such as ethanol or aromatic solvents such as benzene or toluene.

[0096] The term "organic or mineral acid salt" is understood more particularly to mean salts selected from a salt derived i) from hydrochloric acid HC1, ii) from hydrobromic acid HBr, iii) from sulfuric acid H2SO4, iv) from alkylsulfonic acids: Alk-S(O)2OH such as methanesulfonic acid and ethanesulfonic acid; v) from arylsulfonic acids: Ar-S(O)2OH, such as benzenesulfonic acid and toluenesulfonic acid; vi) from succinic acid; vii) from alkoxysulfinic acids: Alk-O-S(O)OH, such as methoxysulfmic acid and ethoxysulfinic acid; viii) from aryloxysulfinic acids, such as tolueneoxysulfinic acid and phenoxysulfinic acid; ix) from phosphoric acid H3PO4; x) from (poly)(hydroxy)(Ci-C6)alkylcarboxylic acid such as acetic acid CH3C(O)OH, citric acid, tartaric acid; lactic acid; xi) from triflic acid CF3SO3H and xii) from tetrafluoroboric acid HBF4; and also salts of "acidic" amino acids such as salts of glutamic acid and aspartic acid.

[0097] The term "organic or mineral base salts" is understood to mean salts of bases or alkaline agents, such as alkali metal hydroxides, such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines, or else salts of "basic" amino acids such as lysine or arginine.

[0098] Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .

[0099] Composition

[0100] A composition, in particular cosmetic composition, according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises a combination of at least 2, in particular at least 3, more particularly at least 4 cosmetic active agents, said combination of active agents:- directly or indirectly protecting the stability of DNA, and

[0101] - preventing epigenetic modifications, in particular those affecting the expression of the genes involved in the maintenance of skin integrity, and

[0102] - preventing or reducing microinflammatory processes, and

[0103] - preventing or reducing mitochondrial dysfunctions and / or stimulating mitochondrial energy metabolism,

[0104] in the cells of the skin.

[0105] The expression "at least 2 cosmetic active agents" is understood to mean that the composition comprises from 2 to 10 cosmetic active agents, in particular from 2 to 6 cosmetic active agents. In particular, the combination may comprise 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10 cosmetic active agents.

[0106] According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises a combination of two cosmetic active agents. According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises a combination of 3 cosmetic active agents. According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises a combination of 4 cosmetic active agents. According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises a combination of 5 cosmetic active agents.

[0107] A combination of cosmetic active agents according to the invention:

[0108] - directly or indirectly protects the stability of DNA, and

[0109] - prevents epigenetic modifications, in particular those affecting the expression of the genes involved in the maintenance of skin integrity, and

[0110] - prevents or reduces microinflammatory processes, and

[0111] - prevents or reduces mitochondrial dysfunctions and / or stimulates mitochondrial energy metabolism,

[0112] in the cells of the skin.

[0113] Genomic instability, a veritable attack on the integrity of our genetic inheritance, is characterized by an accumulation of DNA damage. Environmental exposures, especially due to ultraviolet (UV) rays and pollution, generate reactive oxygen species (ROSs) that damage DNA, causing single-strand breaks, double-strand breaks, and alterations to the nitrogenous bases. If they are not repaired effectively by cellular systems, these lesions can lead to genetic mutations, promoting the premature aging of the skin. The shortening of thetelomeres, the repeating sequences of non-coding DNA located at the ends of chromosomes, also plays a crucial role in this process. Acting as a biological clock, telomeres shorten with each cell division, limiting the capacity of the cell to regenerate.

[0114] A combination of cosmetic active agents according to the invention makes it possible to directly or indirectly protect the stability of DNA in the cells of the skin. According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention makes it possible to directly or indirectly protect the stability of DNA in the cells of the skin.

[0115] Epigenetic alterations constitute a key mechanism of skin aging. Epigenetics, literally "above the genes", refers to modifications to gene expression that are not accompanied by modifications to the DNA sequence itself. These modifications, influenced by the environment and lifestyle, can be transmitted over the course of cell divisions and play a crucial role in the appearance of diseases and age-related alterations to tissue function. The most well-studied epigenetic modifications include DNA methylation (addition of a methyl group to DNA) and modifications to histones (proteins around which DNA is wound). These epigenetic modifications can affect the expression of the genes involved in the maintenance of skin integrity, such as those involved in the production of collagen and elastin.

[0116] A combination of cosmetic active agents according to the invention makes it possible to prevent epigenetic modifications in the skin cells, in particular those affecting the expression of the genes involved in the maintenance of skin integrity. According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention makes it possible to prevent epigenetic modifications in the skin cells, in particular those affecting the expression of the genes involved in the maintenance of skin integrity.

[0117] Chronic inflammation is a process that sets in progressively over the course of time, fueled by a multitude of intrinsic and extrinsic factors. These include oxidative stress, chronic exposure to UV rays, the accumulation of DNA damage, and mitochondrial dysfunction. These repeated attacks accumulate and disrupt the equilibrium of the skin, leading to excessive and prolonged activation of the immune system of the skin with age. This has the consequence of activating pro-inflammatory signaling pathways, dependent on NF-KB (Nuclear Factor-kappa B), on COX2 (cyclooxygenase-2), or on JAK / STAT factors. These factors are capable of generating the production of pro-inflammatory cytokines, chemokines (attracting immune cells) and matrix metalloproteinases (degrading the extracellular matrix). For example, the activation of NF-KB leads to the release of pro-inflammatory cytokines,such as interleukin-1 (IL-1), interleukin-6 (IL-6) and tumor necrosis factor alpha (TNF-a). The activation of COX2 leads to the production of prostaglandins (PGE-2). The JAK / STATS factors are activated by cytokines of the interleukin- 13 (IL-13), interleukin-4 (IL-4), interleukin- 11 (IL-11) or interleukin-31 (IL-31) type. These inflammatory mediators amplify the local inflammatory response, attract other immune cells and contribute to the degradation of the structural components of the skin.

[0118] A combination of cosmetic active agents according to the invention makes it possible to prevent or reduce microinflammatory processes in the cells of the skin. According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention makes it possible to prevent or reduce microinflammatory processes in the cells of the skin.

[0119] Mitochondrial dysfunction involves progressive deterioration of mitochondrial functions. Veritable powerhouses of the cell, the mitochondria control cellular metabolism. However, with age and under the effect of oxidative stress, the mitochondria suffer damage, and the mechanisms for eliminating damaged mitochondria (mitophagy processes), and also the mechanisms for regenerating new mitochondria (mitochondrial biogenesis), deteriorate. The deterioration of the mitochondria will have the direct consequence of modifying cellular metabolism, increasing ROS production, and accelerating inflammatory processes. This vicious circle contributes to a state of chronic oxidative stress, which is harmful to cells, and accelerates skin aging.

[0120] A combination of cosmetic active agents according to the invention makes it possible to prevent or reduce mitochondrial dysfunctions and / or stimulate mitochondrial energy metabolism in the cells of the skin. According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention makes it possible to prevent or reduce mitochondrial dysfunctions and / or stimulate mitochondrial energy metabolism in the cells of the skin.

[0121] Cosmetic active agents

[0122] A composition, in particular cosmetic composition, according to the invention comprises a combination of at least 2, in particular at least 3, more particularly at least 4 cosmetic active agents.

[0123] In the cells of the skin, this combination of active agents:

[0124] - directly or indirectly protects the stability of DNA, and- prevents epigenetic modifications, in particular those affecting the expression of the genes involved in the maintenance of skin integrity, and

[0125] - prevents or reduces microinflammatory processes, and

[0126] - prevents or reduces mitochondrial dysfunctions and / or stimulates mitochondrial energy metabolism.

[0127] According to a particular embodiment, at least one of the cosmetic active agents is selected from:

[0128] active agents which directly or indirectly protect the stability of DNA in the cells of the skin, selected from the group consisting of merocyanines of formula (I), and also the EZE or E / Z geometric isomer forms thereof and tautomers thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates:

[0129]

[0130] (i);

[0131] resveratrol and derivatives thereof and also the geometric isomer forms thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates or a mixture thereof; vitamin E and derivatives thereof, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof or mixtures thereof; ectoin; Punica granatum extract; ferulic acid; an amino sulfonic acid, in particular taurine; and combinations thereof,

[0132] active agents which prevent epigenetic modifications in the cells of the skin, in particular those affecting the expression of the genes involved in the maintenance of skin integrity, selected from the group consisting of a Calendula officinalis flower extract; merocyanines of formula (I), and also the EZE or E / Z geometric isomer forms thereof and tautomers thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates:

[0133]

[0134] (I), in which:

[0135] A is — O- or -NH;R is a C1-C22 alkyl group, a C2-C22 alkenyl group, a C2-C22 alkynyl group, a C3-C22 cycloalkyl group or a C3-C22 cycloalkenyl group, it being possible for said groups to be interrupted by one or more O;

[0136] ascorbic acid, in particular vitamin C, and derivatives thereof, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof or mixtures thereof; resveratrol and derivatives thereof and also the geometric isomer forms thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates or a mixture thereof, vitamin E and derivatives thereof, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof or mixtures thereof; and combinations thereof,

[0137] active agents which prevent or reduce microinflammatory processes in the cells of the skin, selected from the group consisting of an extract of Centenella asiatica titrated with asiaticoside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid; vitamin B3 and / or a derivative thereof and / or a salt thereof; 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one; resveratrol and derivatives thereof and also the geometric isomer forms thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates or a mixture thereof; an extract of Inula helenium: and combinations thereof,

[0138] active agents which prevent or reduce mitochondrial dysfunctions and / or stimulate mitochondrial energy metabolism in the cells of the skin, selected from the group consisting of resveratrol and derivatives thereof; capryloylsalicylic acid and / or a salt thereof; vitamins B 1, B3, B6 and B9 and derivatives thereof, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof or mixtures thereof; ionized magnesium Mg2+; Punica granatum extract; an amino sulfonic acid, in particular taurine; and combinations thereof.

[0139] According to a particular embodiment, the combination comprises at least:

[0140] an active agent which directly or indirectly protects the stability of DNA in the cells of the skin, selected from the group consisting of merocyanines of formula (I), and also the EZE or E / Z geometric isomer forms thereof and tautomers thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates:

[0141]

[0142] resveratrol and derivatives thereof and also the geometric isomer forms thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates or a mixture thereof; vitamin E and derivatives thereof, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof or mixtures thereof; ectoin; Punica granatum extract; ferulic acid; an amino sulfonic acid, in particular taurine; and combinations thereof, and

[0143] an active agent which prevents epigenetic modifications in the cells of the skin, in particular those affecting the expression of the genes involved in the maintenance of skin integrity, selected from the group consisting of a Calendula officinalis flower extract; merocyanines of formula (I), and also the EZE or E / Z geometric isomer forms thereof and tautomers thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates:

[0144]

[0145] (I), in which:

[0146] A is — O- or -NH;

[0147] R is a C1-C22 alkyl group, a C2-C22 alkenyl group, a C2-C22 alkynyl group, a C3-C22 cycloalkyl group or a C3-C22 cycloalkenyl group, it being possible for said groups to be interrupted by one or more O;

[0148] ascorbic acid, in particular vitamin C, and derivatives thereof, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof or mixtures thereof; resveratrol and derivatives thereof and also the geometric isomer forms thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates or a mixture thereof, vitamin E and derivatives thereof, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof or mixtures thereof; and combinations thereof, and an active agent which prevents or reduces microinflammatory processes in the cells of the skin, selected from the group consisting of an extract of Centenella asiatica titrated with asiaticoside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid; vitamin B3 and / or a derivative thereof and / or a salt thereof; 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one; resveratrol and derivatives thereof and also the geometric isomer forms thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates or a mixture thereof; an extract of Inula helenium: and combinations thereof, and

[0149] an active agent which prevents or reduces mitochondrial dysfunctions and / or stimulates mitochondrial energy metabolism in the cells of the skin, selected fromthe group consisting of resveratrol and derivatives thereof; capryloylsalicylic acid and / or a salt thereof; vitamins Bl, B3, B6 and B9 and derivatives thereof, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof or mixtures thereof; ionized magnesium Mg2+;

[0150] Punica granatum extract; an amino sulfonic acid, in particular taurine; and combinations thereof,

[0151] it being understood that the active agent which directly or indirectly protects the stability of DNA in the cells of the skin, the active agent which prevents epigenetic modifications in the cells of the skin, the active agent which prevents or reduces microinflammatory processes in the cells of the skin and the active agent which prevents or reduces mitochondrial dysfunctions and / or stimulates mitochondrial energy metabolism in the cells of the skin may be identical or different.

[0152] According to a particular embodiment, at least one of the cosmetic active agents of a combination according to the invention is ectoin.

[0153] Ectoin is a low-molecular-weight organic molecule belonging to the class of amino acid derivatives, more precisely a cyclic amino acid (l,4,5,6-tetrahydropyrimidine-4-carboxylic acid). Its structure confers unique stabilizing and protective properties for biomolecules. In cosmetics, ectoin is used for its moisturizing, soothing and protective properties, in particular for reinforcing the skin barrier, reducing transepidermal water loss, and mitigating the effects of environmental attacks such as UV rays, pollution and oxidative stress. It also helps to reduce signs of irritation and maintain skin homeostasis.

[0154] According to a particular embodiment, at least one of the cosmetic active agents of a combination according to the invention is selected, independently, from the group consisting of:

[0155] resveratrol, and / or a resveratrol derivative, such as resveratrol triphosphate or polydatin, and also the geometric isomer forms thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates or a mixture thereof;

[0156] the merocyanines of formula (I), and also the EZE or E / Z geometric isomer forms thereof and tautomers thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates:

[0157]

[0158] in which:

[0159] A is — O- or -NH;

[0160] R is a C1-C22 alkyl group, a C2-C22 alkenyl group, a C2-C22 alkynyl group, a C3-C22 cycloalkyl group or a C3-C22 cycloalkenyl group, it being possible for said groups to be interrupted by one or more O;

[0161] vitamin E, or a derivative thereof, in particular selected from the group consisting of tocopherol esters, such as tocopheryl acetate, tocopheryl palmitate, tocopheryl linoleate, and tocopheryl nicotinate, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof or mixtures thereof; and vitamin C, or a derivative thereof, in particular selected from the group consisting of ascorbic acid; sodium ascorbate; liposoluble esters, in particular tetrahexyl decyl ascorbate or ascorbyl palmitate; magnesium ascorbyl phosphate; ascorbyl glucoside; glucosamine ascorbate; and ascorbyl acetate, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof or mixtures thereof.

[0162] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises, as cosmetic active agents, in a combination according to the invention:

[0163] ectoin; and

[0164] resveratrol, and / or a resveratrol derivative such as resveratrol triphosphate or polydatin; and

[0165] a merocyanine of formula (I), and / or an EZE or E / Z geometric isomer form thereof and / or tautomers thereof, salts thereof and / or solvates thereof such as hydrates:

[0166]

[0167] (I); and

[0168] - tocopherol, or a derivative thereof, in particular selected from the group consisting of tocopherol esters, such as tocopheryl acetate, tocopheryl palmitate, tocopheryllinoleate, and tocopheryl nicotinate, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof or mixtures thereof; and

[0169] ascorbic acid, in particular vitamin C, or a derivative thereof, in particular selected from the group consisting of ascorbic acid; sodium ascorbate; liposoluble esters, in particular tetrahexyl decyl ascorbate or ascorbyl palmitate; magnesium ascorbyl phosphate; ascorbyl glucoside; glucosamine ascorbate; and ascorbyl acetate, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof or mixtures thereof.

[0170] According to one embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises, in a combination according to the invention, resveratrol, and / or a resveratrol derivative, such as resveratrol triphosphate or polydatin, and also the geometric isomer forms thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates or a mixture thereof;

[0171] Resveratrol is a polyphenol that exists in a cis (or Z) form and a trans (or E) form, represented below:

[0172]

[0173] trans-resveratrol cis-resveratrol

[0174] The term "resveratrol derivative" is understood to mean compounds of which the backbone is resveratrol as defined above, at least one of the 3 hydroxyl groups of which is salified and / or functionalized in particular by a sugar, in particular glycosyl or glucoside. More particularly: the product of condensation of glucose, in D form, i.e. in the form of a- or P-glucopyranose or of a- or P-furanose, or in L form, with resveratrol, preferably in L form. Resveratrol and derivatives thereof, in particular / ra / / .s-resveratrol, are known to have many biological properties, such as antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity.

[0175] Resveratrol exists in the natural state in its cis and trans forms, but also in other derived forms, for instance a glucosylated form.

[0176] Resveratrol and derivatives thereof are present in many plants and fruits. It is found in particular in Japanese knotweed (Fallopia japonica also known as Polygonum cupistadumor Reynoutria japonica) or in grapes, for instance those from the grapevine species Vitis vinifera. More particularly, resveratrol and derivatives are found, for example, in blackberries, wine or peanuts.

[0177] Generally, resveratrol and derivatives thereof are found in the following plant families: Vitaceae, Myrtaceae, Dipterocarpaceae, Cyperaceae, Gnetaceae, Fabaceae, Pinaceae, Polygonaceae, Moraceae, Fagaceae, Liliaceae, etc.

[0178] As examples of resveratrol derivatives, mention may be made of resveratrol triphosphate of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts and in particular alkali metal salts, such as sodium resveratrol triphosphate having the following formula, and also the geometric isomers thereof and the solvates thereof such as hydrates:

[0179]

[0180] Mention may also be made of polydatin, which is a resveratrol derivative, having the following formula, and also the salts thereof and the solvates thereof such as the hydrates thereof:

[0181]

[0182] According to one embodiment, the composition comprises, in a combination according to the invention, at least one compound selected from resveratrol, the salts thereof, resveratrol triphosphate, the salts thereof, polydatin, the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from resveratrol, sodium resveratrol triphosphate, polydatin and mixtures thereof.According to a particular embodiment, a combination according to the invention, and thus a composition according to the invention, comprises resveratrol. Better still, the composition comprises, in a combination according to the invention, resveratrol in its trans form.

[0183] The resveratrol, in particular trans-resveratrol or derivatives thereof, present in a combination according to the invention may be of synthetic or natural origin or may be in the form of a plant extract containing resveratrol, in particular trans-resveratrol.

[0184] Preferably, the resveratrol, a derivative thereof and also the geometric isomer forms thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates, or a mixture thereof, is (are) present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of greater than or equal to 0.001% and less than or equal to 10% by weight, more preferentially greater than or equal to 0.01% and less than or equal to 5% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 0.05% and less than or equal to 2% by weight, even better still greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight and less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0185] According to one embodiment, a combination according to the invention, and thus a composition according to the invention, comprises at least one merocyanine of formula (I) below and also the EZE or E / Z geometric isomer forms thereof and tautomers thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates:

[0186]

[0187] in which:

[0188] A is — 0~ or -NH;

[0189] R is a C1-C22 alkyl group, a C2-C22 alkenyl group, a C2-C22 alkynyl group, a C3-C22 cycloalkyl group or a C3-C22 cycloalkenyl group, it being possible for said groups to be interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms O.

[0190] The merocyanine compounds may be in the EZE or E / Z geometric isomer forms thereof:

[0191]

[0192] According to one embodiment, a combination according to the invention comprises at least one merocyanine of formula (I) and also the EZE or E / Z geometric isomer forms thereof and tautomers thereof selected from the compounds of formula (I) and also the geometric isomer forms thereof, tautomers thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates in which: A is -O-; R is a C1-C22 alkyl, better still R is a Ci-C6alkyl, which may be interrupted by one or more O.

[0193] According to a particular embodiment, the merocyanine(s) of formula (I) is (are) selected from the following compounds, and also the EZE geometric isomer forms thereof, and tautomers thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates:

[0194] [Table 2]

[0195]

[0196] >

[0197]

[0198] According to a particular embodiment, the merocyanine of formula (I) is the compound 2-ethoxyethyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-l-ylidene}ethanoate (25) (also known under the name METHOXYPROPYLAMINO CYCLOHEXENYLIDENE ETHOXYETHYLCYANO ACETATE) in the E / E and / or E / Z geometric configuration thereof and also the tautomers thereof.The E / Z form has the following structure (formula 25):

[0199]

[0200] The EZE form has the following structure (formula 25a):

[0201]

[0202] The screening merocyanines may be present in a composition according to the invention in an amount of greater than or equal to 0.1% and less than or equal to 15% by weight, and preferentially greater than or equal to 0.2% and less than or equal to 10% by weight and even better still greater than or equal to 0.5% and less than or equal to 5% by weight, even better still greater than or equal to 0.7% and less than or equal to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0203] The compounds of formula (I), which form a carbocyclic ring containing 6 carbon atoms, may be prepared according to the protocols described in patent application WO 2007 / 071582, in IP.com Journal (2009), 9(5A), 29-30 IPCOM000182396D under the title "Process for producing 3-amino-2-cyclohexan-l-ylidene compounds" and in US-A-4,749,643 in col. 13, line 66 - col. 14, line 57 and the references cited in this regard.

[0204] In particular, the compounds of formula (I), such as the compound 2-ethoxyethyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-l-ylidene}ethanoate (25) can be synthesized according to the synthesis scheme described in the publication by B. Winkler et al., Tetrahedron Letters, 55 (2014) 1749-1751, which is entitled "A cyclic merocyanine UV-A absorber: mechanism of formation and crystal structure", and represented below, for the compounds of formula (I):

[0205]

[0206] and more particularly for compound 25 described in Table 1 :

[0207]

[0208] According to a preferred embodiment, a combination according to the invention comprises tocopherol, a derivative thereof, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof or mixtures thereof. The tocopherol corresponds in particular to a-tocopherol, or vitamin E. According to a particular embodiment, a combination according to the invention comprises vitamin E. Tocopherol has the structure of formula (II) below

[0209]

[0210] The term "tocopherol derivative" is understood in particular to mean tocopherol esters and ethers, preferably C1-C24, preferably C2-Ci8, esters and ethers, particularly esters of tocopherol and of carboxylic acids, in particular of (Ci-C22)alkylcarboxylic acid, of (C2-C22)alkenylcarboxylic acid, of (hetero)arylcarboxylic acid such as pyridine carboxylic acidsor ethereal acids from (Ci-C22)alkanols, or (C2-C22)alkenols such as tocopheryl acetate, tocopheryl palmitate, tocopheryl linoleate, or tocopheryl nicotinate.

[0211] Mention may be made, for example, of the product DL Alpha tocopheryl acetate® sold by the company Eisai.

[0212] In a particular embodiment, a combination according to the invention comprises an amount of tocopherol(s), in particular of vitamin E, or a derivative thereof, a salt thereof or an optical isomer thereof, which is greater than or equal to 0.1% and less than or equal to 30% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.2% and less than or equal to 10% by weight, more preferentially greater than or equal to 0.5% and less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0213] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention comprises an amount of greater than or equal to 0.01% and less than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.05% and less than or equal to 10% by weight, more preferentially greater than or equal to 0.1% and less than or equal to 5% by weight, more preferentially still greater than or equal to 0.5% and less than or equal to 2% by weight, of tocopherol, in particular of vitamin E, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0214] According to a particular embodiment, a combination according to the invention comprises ascorbic acid, in particular vitamin C, or a derivative thereof, in particular selected from the group consisting of ascorbic acid; sodium ascorbate; liposoluble esters, in particular tetrahexyl decyl ascorbate or ascorbyl palmitate; magnesium ascorbyl phosphate; ascorbyl glucoside; glucosamine ascorbate; and ascorbyl acetate, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof or mixtures thereof.

[0215] The ascorbic acid corresponds in particular to L-ascorbic acid, or vitamin C. It has the structure of formula (III) below:

[0216]

[0217] The expression "ascorbic acid derivative" is preferably understood to mean a compound selected from 5,6-di-O-dimethylsilyl ascorbate (sold in particular by Exsymol under the reference PRO-AA®), the potassium salt of DL-alpha-tocopheryl-DL-ascorbyl phosphatealso known as potassium ascorbyl tocopheryl phosphate (sold by SEPPIC under the reference Sepivital EPC®), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate (sold by the company DSM under the reference Stay-C 50®), disodium ascorbyl sulfate, sulfinyl-L-ascorbic acid, glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl glucoside, erythorbic acid and ethylated ascorbic acid.

[0218] The term "ascorbyl glucoside" is understood to mean the condensation product of glucose, in the D form, that is to say in the form of a- or P-glucopyranose or of a- or P-furanose, or in the L form, with ascorbic acid, preferably in the L form. Preferably, the ascorbyl glucoside is L-ascorbic acid 2-O-a-D-glucopyranoside, available in particular from the company Hayashibara.

[0219] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "ascorbic acid derivatives" may be understood to mean those obtained by blocking at least one hydroxyl site, in particular by esterification or etherification with, for example, compounds that are phosphated or sulfated, esters of ascorbic acid and of carboxylic acids, in particular of (Ci-C22)alkylcarboxylic and (C2-C22)alkenylcarboxylic acid, or that are ethereal from (Ci-C22)alkanols, or (C2-C22)alkenols. These may in particular be magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl palmitate and ascorbyl glucoside.

[0220] The salts of ascorbic acid or erythorbic acid may be selected from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, preferably alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salts.

[0221] Mention may for example be made of the product Ascorbic acid L® from Reckon Organics (pure synthetic ascorbic acid) or Ascorbic acid ultrafine powder® from DSM Nutritional Products (natural extract).

[0222] In a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises an amount of ascorbic acid, in particular of vitamin C, or a derivative thereof, a salt thereof or an optical isomer thereof, which is greater than or equal to 0.1% and less than or equal to 30% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.5% and less than or equal to 25% by weight, more preferentially greater than or equal to 0.7% and less than or equal to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0223] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention comprises an amount of greater than or equal to 0.01% and less than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.05% and less than or equal to 10% by weight, more preferentially greater than or equal to 0.1% and less than or equal to 5% by weight, more preferentially still greater thanor equal to 0.5% and less than or equal to 2% by weight, of ascorbic acid, in particular of vitamin C, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0224] According to a particular embodiment, a combination according to the invention comprises at least one amino sulfonic acid, in particular selected from the group consisting of aminomethanesulfonic acid, 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid (taurine), aminopropanesulfonic acid, aminobutanesulfonic acid, aminohexanesulfonic acid, aminoisopropylsulfonic acid, aminododecylsulfonic acid, aminobenzenesulfonic acid, aminotoluenesulfonic acid, sulfanilic acid, chlorosulfanilic acid, diaminobenzenesulfonic acid, aminophenolsulfonic acid, aminopropylbenzenesulfonic acid, aminohexylbenzenesulfonic acid, and a mixture thereof.

[0225] In particular, a combination according to the invention comprises taurine.

[0226] According to a particular embodiment, a combination according to the invention comprises:

[0227] ectoin; and

[0228] resveratrol, and / or a resveratrol derivative such as resveratrol triphosphate or polydatin; and

[0229] a merocyanine of formula (I), and also the EZE or E / Z geometric isomer forms thereof and tautomers thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates:

[0230]

[0231] (I); and

[0232] - tocopherol, or a derivative thereof, in particular selected from the group consisting of tocopherol esters, such as tocopheryl acetate, tocopheryl palmitate, tocopheryl linoleate, and tocopheryl nicotinate, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof or mixtures thereof; and

[0233] ascorbic acid, in particular vitamin C, or a derivative thereof, in particular selected from the group consisting of ascorbic acid; sodium ascorbate; liposoluble esters, in particular tetrahexyl decyl ascorbate or ascorbyl palmitate; magnesium ascorbyl phosphate; ascorbyl glucoside; glucosamine ascorbate; and ascorbyl acetate, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof or mixtures thereof, andan amino sulfonic acid, in particular selected from the group consisting of aminomethanesulfonic acid, 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid (taurine), aminopropanesulfonic acid, aminobutanesulfonic acid, aminohexanesulfonic acid, aminoisopropylsulfonic acid, aminododecylsulfonic acid, aminobenzenesulfonic acid, aminotoluenesulfonic acid, sulfanilic acid, chlorosulfanilic acid, diaminobenzenesulfonic acid, aminophenolsulfonic acid, aminopropylbenzenesulfonic acid, aminohexylbenzenesulfonic acid, and a mixture thereof.

[0234] According to a particular embodiment, a combination according to the invention comprises a merocyanine of formula (I), in particular 2-ethoxyethyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-l-ylidene} ethanoate, resveratrol, vitamin E and vitamin C.

[0235] According to another embodiment, a combination according to the invention comprises a merocyanine of formula (I), in particular 2-ethoxyethyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-l-ylidene} ethanoate, resveratrol, vitamin E, ectoin and vitamin C.

[0236] According to a particular embodiment, a combination according to the invention comprises a merocyanine of formula (I), in particular 2-ethoxyethyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-l-ylidene} ethanoate, resveratrol, vitamin E, vitamin C and taurine.

[0237] According to another embodiment, a combination according to the invention comprises a merocyanine of formula (I), in particular 2-ethoxyethyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-l-ylidene} ethanoate, resveratrol, vitamin E, ectoin, vitamin C and taurine.

[0238] Aqueous phase

[0239] A composition according to the invention may comprise an aqueous phase, and / or a fatty phase.

[0240] The aqueous phase in particular comprises water and optionally a water-soluble organic solvent and is preferably single-phase.According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the present invention comprises a water content of between 10% and 98% by weight, preferably between 25% and 90% by weight, and more preferentially between 35% and 85%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0241] According to the present invention, the term "water-soluble organic solvent" is understood to denote a compound that is liquid at ambient temperature and water-miscible (miscibility with water of greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).

[0242] The water-soluble solvents that can be used in a composition of the invention may be volatile.

[0243] Among the water-soluble solvents that may be used in a composition according to the invention, mention may be made most particularly of lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, polyols and also alkylene carbonates. According to an embodiment variant, the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one C2-C32polyol.

[0244] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises from 0.01% to 30% by total weight of at least one polyol relative to the total weight of the composition; more preferentially, the composition comprises from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.5% to 10% by weight of at least one polyol, even better still from 0.7% to 5% by weight of at least one polyol, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0245] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyol" is understood to mean any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl (OH) groups.

[0246] A polyol that is suitable for use in the invention may be a compound of alkyl type with a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, bearing at least two -OH functions on the alkyl chain. Preferably, a polyol that may be used in the composition according to the invention is a compound of the linear alkyl type bearing on the alkyl chain at least two -OH functions, preferably from 2 to 6 hydroxyl -OH groups, more preferentially 2 or 3 hydroxyl groups.

[0247] The polyol(s) advantageously suitable for the formulation of the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention is (are) those having in particular from 2 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 10 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 3 to 8 carbon atoms. The polyol(s) that may be used according to the present invention is (are) selected from linear polyols having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; mention may in particular be made of:- diols, such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol; and

[0248] - triols, such as glycerol (glycerin),

[0249] and mixtures thereof.

[0250] According to a very preferred embodiment, the polyol is selected from triols such as glycerol.

[0251] The aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention may also comprise any water-soluble or water-dispersible compound that is compatible with an aqueous phase, such as stabilizers, gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners, surfactants and mixtures thereof.

[0252] Fatty phase

[0253] As mentioned above, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one fatty phase.

[0254] For the purposes of the invention, the term "fatty phase" is understood to mean a phase comprising at least one oil and all of the liposoluble and lipophilic ingredients and the fatty substances, in particular liquid at 20°C and atmospheric pressure, used for the formulation of the compositions of the invention.

[0255] In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 5% to 95% by weight and preferably from 10% to 80% by weight of fatty phase, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0256] The fatty phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise oils, waxes, pasty compounds, and / or silicone compounds, and preferably at least one oil, in particular a cosmetic oil.

[0257] Oils

[0258] The term "oil" is understood to mean a water-immiscible non-aqueous compound that is liquid at ambient temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0259] A fatty phase that is suitable for preparing the compositions, in particular cosmetic compositions, according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluoro oils or non-fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.

[0260] The oils may be volatile or nonvolatile.The fatty phase may comprise, besides the merocyanines and optionally the lipophilic additional screening agents, at least one volatile or nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil and / or one volatile and / or nonvolatile silicone oil and / or one volatile and / or nonvolatile fluoro oil. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrocarbon oil" is understood to mean an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.

[0261] The term "silicone oil" is understood to mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and in particular at least one Si-0 group.

[0262] The term "fluoro oil" is understood to mean an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom. The oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

[0263] Volatile oils

[0264] For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" is understood to mean any oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound that is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40000 Pa (IO-3to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

[0265] The volatile oils may be hydrocarbon oils or silicone oils.

[0266] Among the volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, mention may be made in particular of branched C8-C16alkanes, such as C8-C16isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched C8-Ci6esters, such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0267] Mention may also be made of volatile linear alkanes comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms, for instance n-dodecane (Cl 2) and n-tetradecane (Cl 4) sold by Sasol under the respective references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, and also mixtures thereof, the undecanetridecane mixture, mixtures of n-undecane (Cll) and of n-tridecane (C13) obtained inexamples 1 and 2 of patent application WO 2008 / 155059 from the company Cognis, and mixtures thereof.

[0268] As volatile silicone oils, mention may be made of linear volatile silicone oils such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.

[0269] As cyclic volatile silicone oils, mention may be made of hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and in particular cyclohexasiloxane.

[0270] Use may also be made of volatile fluoro oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane, and mixtures thereof.

[0271] Nonvolatile oils

[0272] The term "nonvolatile" is understood to mean an oil of which the vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure is nonzero and is less than 10'3mmHg (0.13 Pa). The nonvolatile oils may in particular be selected from nonvolatile hydrocarbon, fluoro and / or silicone oils.

[0273] As nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil, mention may in particular be made of:

[0274] linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, poly decenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, and squalane, and mixtures thereof,

[0275] nonvolatile alkanes, preferably with a viscosity of less than 20 mPa.s at 20°C measured with a Rheomat RM100® viscometer from Lamy Rheology. The term "nonvolatile alkane" is understood to mean a hydrocarbon cosmetic oil which is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a vapor pressure at 20°C of less than 0.01 kPa, according to the definition of a Volatile Organic Compound (VOC) of Article 2 of European Council Directive 1999 / 13 / EC of 11 March, 1992: "Any organic compound having at 293.15 K a vapor pressure of 0.01 kPa or more". In particular, the nonvolatile alkanes comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and preferably a mixture of alkanes containing from15 to 19 carbon atoms, for example the products sold under the references Emogreen L19 and Emosmart L19 from SEPPIC,

[0276] hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as glyceride triesters, which are generally fatty acid triesters of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have varied chain lengths from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, it being possible for these chains to be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched; these oils are in particular wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, sesame oil, marrow oil, rapeseed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil and musk rose oil; or else caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as those soldbythe company Stearinerie Dubois orthose sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel,

[0277] synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicapryl ether, synthetic esters, such as the oils of formula RICOOR2, in which R1 represents a residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2represents a hydrocarbon chain, which is in particular branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that Ri + R2is greater than or equal to 10, such as for example Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate having between 12 and 15 carbon atoms, such as the product sold under the trade name Finsolv TN or Witconol TN by the company Witco or Tegosoft TN by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, such as the commercial product sold under the name X-Tend 226 by the company ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate such as the product sold under the name Dub Dis by the company Stearinerie Dubois, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates, such as the ester of C3-C22tricarboxylic acid and of Ci-C6alcohols with the INCI name Triethyl Citrate, for example the one sold under the name Citrofol Al Extra by the company Jungbunzlauer; tartrates such as linear dialkyl tartrates having 12 or 13 carbon atoms, for example those sold under the name Cosmacol ETI by the company Enichem Augusta Industriale and linear dialkyl tartrates havingbetween 14 and 15 carbon atoms, for example, those sold under the name Cosmacol ETL by the same company, and acetates,

[0278] fatty amides, such as isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, for example the product sold under the trade name Eldew SL205 from Ajinomoto,

[0279] polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxy stearate / tetraisostearate,

[0280] fatty alcohols that are liquid at ambient temperature, with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2 -undecylpentadecanol, C12-C22 higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof,

[0281] carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, for example the product sold under the name Cetiol CC by the company Cognis,

[0282] non-phenyl silicone oils, for instance caprylyl methicone, and

[0283] phenyl silicone oils, for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyl trimethicone with a viscosity of less than or equal to 100 cSt, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, and mixtures thereof;

[0284] and also mixtures of these various oils.

[0285] Other faty substances

[0286] A fatty phase of a composition according to the invention may also comprise other fatty substances, mixed with or dissolved in an oil.

[0287] The other fatty substances that may be present in the fatty phase of a composition according to the invention are, for example:

[0288] fatty acids comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid;

[0289] waxes, other than glyceryl trihydroxystearate, such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, or synthetic waxes, such as polyethylene waxes or Fischer-Tropsch waxes;silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl(Ci-C4)alkyl dimethicone and trifluoropropyl dimethicone;

[0290] silicone elastomers such as the products sold under the name KSG by the company Shin-Etsu, under the name Trefil or BY29 by the company Dow Corning or under the name Gransil by the company Grant Industries;

[0291] a gum selected from silicone gums (dimethiconol);

[0292] a pasty compound, such as polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, esters of an oligomeric glycerol, arachidyl propionate, fatty acid triglycerides and derivatives thereof;

[0293] and mixtures thereof.

[0294] As fatty substances, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one fatty alcohol wax. Such waxes may be selected from lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, ceryl alcohol, montanyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0295] As fatty substance, a composition according to the invention may in particular comprise at least one butter, more particularly a plant butter.

[0296] The plant butter(s) that are suitable for use in a composition according to the invention are preferably selected from the group comprising avocado butter, cocoa butter, shea butter, kokum butter, mango butter, murumuru butter, coconut butter, apricot kernel butter, sal butter and urucum butter, and mixtures thereof, and in particular is shea butter.

[0297] These fatty substances may be selected in a varied manner by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example in terms of consistency or texture.

[0298] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one nonvolatile oil, preferably at least one nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil, in particular selected from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, nonvolatile alkanes, hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, synthetic esters, fatty amides, carbonates, and also mixtures of these various oils, even better still selected from synthetic esters, fatty amides, carbonates, and a mixture thereof.

[0299] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises a polar oil.In particular, such nonvolatile hydrocarbon oils may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 2.0% to 20.0% by weight and preferably from 2.0% to 15.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0300] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil selected from squalane, mixtures of alkanes containing from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, alkyl benzoates having between 12 and 15 carbon atoms, diisopropyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, diisopropyl sebacate, the ester of C3-C22 tricarboxylic acid and of Ci-C6alcohols with the INCI name Triethyl Citrate, isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, dicaprylyl carbonate, and mixtures thereof, better still selected from diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, dicaprylyl carbonate.

[0301] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises less than 2.0% by weight of silicone oil(s), in particular less than 1.0% by weight of silicone oil(s), preferably less than 0.5% by weight of silicone oil(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferentially is free of silicone oil(s).

[0302] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises a fatty phase containing at least one fatty substance.

[0303] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil, and preferably at least one nonvolatile ester oil.

[0304] Hydrophilic gelling agent / thickener

[0305] A composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one gelling agent (or thickener) that is hydrophilic, i.e. that is water-soluble or water-dispersible.

[0306] As hydrophilic gelling agents, mention may for example be made of modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as the products sold under the names Carbopol (CTFA name: carbomer) and Pemulen (CTFA name: Acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer) by the company Goodrich, polyacrylamides, optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, such as the poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) sold by the company Hoechst under the name Hostacerin AMPS (CTFA name: Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide), crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and of AMPS, which are in the form of a W / O emulsion, such as those sold under the name Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide / C13-14 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) and under the name Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: Aery 1 ami de / S odiumacryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC, polysaccharide biopolymers such as xanthan gum, guar gum, scleroglucan gum, alginates, modified celluloses, and mixtures thereof. The amount of gelling agents depends on the desired objective.

[0307] More preferentially, the hydrophilic gelling agent is selected from polysaccharide biopolymers such as scleroglucan gum.

[0308] According to one embodiment, the amount of hydrophilic gelling agents ranges for example from 0.01% to 10% and for example from 0.05% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0309] Additional active agent(s)

[0310] A composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more additional active agents. These additional active agents are different from the cosmetic active agents of the combination of cosmetic active agents of a composition according to the invention described above.

[0311] Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select one or more additional active agents such that the advantageous properties of the cosmetic active agents of the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected.

[0312] As additional active agents, mention may for example be made of moisturizing agents; depigmenting agents, desquamating agents, different antiaging agents, mattifying agents; cicatrizing agents; preserving agents such as antibacterial agents; UV-screening agents, in particular lipophilic UV screening agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0313] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises from 0.01% to 20% by total weight of at least one additional active agent, preferentially from 0.05% to 15% by weight, and preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight of at least one additional active agent, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0314] A composition according to the invention may contain one or more adjuvants commonly used in the cosmetic and dermatological fields; emollients; sequestrants; antioxidants; fillers; free-radical scavengers; essential oils; fragrances; film-forming agents; colorants; and mixtures thereof. The total amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration. In particular, these amounts vary according to the desiredaim and may for example range from 0.01% to 20% and preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0315] Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional adjuvant(s) added to a composition according to the invention such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition in accordance with the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.

[0316] The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration. In particular, these amounts vary according to the desired aim and may for example range from 0.01% to 20% and preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0317] A composition according to the invention may be in any presentation form normally used in the cosmetics field, in particular in the skincare cosmetics field.

[0318] It may in particular be in the form of an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solution, which may be gelled, a dispersion of the lotion type, which may be a two-phase dispersion, an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion or a multiple emulsion, a gel, in particular an aqueous gel, or also a dispersion of oils in an aqueous phase, in particular using spherules, it being possible for these spherules to be polymeric particles or, better still, lipid vesicles of ionic and / or nonionic type. In particular, a composition according to the invention may be in the form of a gel, particularly an aqueous gel. It may also be an anhydrous composition. The term "anhydrous composition" is understood to mean a composition containing less than 10% by weight of water, in particular less than 5% by weight of water, more particularly less than 2% by weight of water or even less than 0.5% of water, and in particular free of water, the water not being added during the preparation of the composition but corresponding to the residual water provided by the mixed ingredients. The composition may be of more or less fluid liquid consistency.

[0319] A composition according to the invention is in particular suitable for topical administration. Thus, a composition according to the invention may comprise all the constituents usually employed in the envisaged topical application and administration.

[0320] A composition according to the invention may advantageously be in the form of an emulsion, in particular obtained by dispersion of an aqueous phase in a fatty phase (W / O) or of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W), of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, orof soft consistency, or else of a multiple emulsion (W / O / W or O / W / O). These compositions are prepared according to the usual known methods.

[0321] More particularly, a composition according to the invention may be intended for topical application and may in particular be in the form of an emulsion, in particular an oil-in-water emulsion. In particular, such an emulsion is not intended to be rinsed off after application. A composition according to the invention is more particularly intended to be applied to skin. In particular, the skin is the skin of the face, scalp, neckline, neck, arms or forearms, or even more preferably the skin of the face (in particular of the forehead, nose, cheeks and chin), neckline and neck.

[0322] The composition according to the invention may alternatively be in the form of a face and / or body care or makeup product, and may be packaged, for example, in the form of a cream in a jar or a fluid in a tube or a pump bottle or a dropper bottle.

[0323] A composition according to the invention can be manufactured by any known process generally used in the cosmetics field.

[0324] The ingredients can be mixed before being formed into shape, in the order and under conditions readily determined by a person skilled in the art.

[0325] According to a particular mode of the invention, other agents intended to enhance the appearance and / or texture of the skin may also be added to the composition according to the invention.

[0326] Uses and processes

[0327] According to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to the cosmetic use, in particular topical cosmetic use, of a composition according to the invention, for increasing the longevity of skin cells and skin tissues, in particular in an individual less than 40 years old, in particular 20 to 40 years old. More particularly, the individual is 25 to 35 years old. According to yet another of its aspects, the present invention relates to the cosmetic use, in particular topical cosmetic use, of a composition according to the invention, for:

[0328] - directly or indirectly protecting the stability of DNA, and

[0329] - preventing epigenetic modifications, in particular those affecting the expression of the genes involved in the maintenance of skin integrity, and

[0330] - preventing or reducing microinflammatory processes, and- preventing or reducing mitochondrial dysfunctions and / or stimulating mitochondrial energy metabolism,

[0331] in the cells of the skin.

[0332] Lastly, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the topical application to these keratin materials of a composition according to the invention.

[0333] The composition utilized in the uses and processes according to the invention may be as described elsewhere in the present text.

[0334] The cosmetic uses and processes considered according to the invention are non-therapeutic. The cosmetic uses and processes of the invention are more particularly implemented by topically administering a composition according to the invention.

[0335] Topical administration consists in externally applying cosmetic compositions to the skin according to the usual techniques for the use of these compositions.

[0336] By way of illustration, the cosmetic use or process according to the invention may be implemented by topical, for example daily, application of at least one composition according to the invention, which may be formulated, for example, in the form of a cream, gel, serum, lotion, emulsion or makeup-removing milk, in particular in gel form.

[0337] The application may be repeated for example 1 to 2 times daily over a day or more, and generally over an extended period of at least 3 days, at least 4 weeks, or even 4 to 15 weeks, with one or more periods of stoppage, if necessary.

[0338] According to one embodiment, the application is daily (once a day) and generally over an extended period of at least 3 days, at least 4 weeks, or even 4 to 15 weeks, with one or more periods of stoppage, if necessary.

[0339] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic treatment process according to the invention may comprise a single application.

[0340] The examples that follow illustrate the present invention without limiting the scope thereof. The starting materials are referred to by their chemical or INCI name. The amounts are indicated as weight percentages of starting materials relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise mentioned.In the examples, unless otherwise specified, the temperature is ambient temperature (25°C) and is expressed in degrees Celsius, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure.

[0341] Examples

[0342] Example 1: Instrumental study demonstrating an effect on skin firmness with the 2-ethoxyethyl (2Z)-cvanoI3-r(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cvclohex-2-en-l-ylidenelethanoate + vitamin C complex

[0343] The inventors carried out a clinical and instrumental evaluation aimed at comparing the performance of vitamin C (12%) alone with that of the pair 2-ethoxy ethyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-l-ylidene} ethanoate (1%) and vitamin C (12%).

[0344] For this study, 130 women with phototypes II to IV, having all skin types, were selected. For three months (+15 days of persistent effect that allow evaluation of the effects of the compositions after three months of application, without new application of the composition), they applied, every day, in the morning and evening, either a composition comprising 12% vitamin C alone, or a composition comprising 12% vitamin C and 1% 2-ethoxyethyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-l-ylidene}ethanoate.

[0345] Self-assessment

[0346] The women first of all self-assessed the plumpness and firmness score. The scores were determined based on a 5-point questionnaire (with the available responses "Strongly agree", "Somewhat agree", "Neither agree nor disagree", "Somewhat disagree" and "Strongly disagree") on different criteria (firmness and plumpness of the skin).

[0347] Consumers responded that the formula "2-ethoxyethyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-l-ylidene} ethanoate + vitamin C" had effects that were perceived to be superior to those perceived with the formula "vitamin C alone", on plumpness and firmness after 14 days of use, after 28 days of use, and after 84 days of use. Moreover, the percentage of responders (number of people who responded positively to the treatments) is higher during treatment with the double composition.

[0348] Instrumental evaluation- The inventors then measured the DermoTrace® score to evaluate the impact of the formula "vitamin C alone" and the formula "2-ethoxy ethyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-l-ylidene} ethanoate + vitamin C" (double formula) on the plumpness and firmness of the skin.

[0349] The measurement of the DermoTrace® score is evaluated on the basis of the atlas described in the DermoTrace® water mobility assessment described in the " Skin Aging Atlas" (Roland Bazin and Frederic Flament, published in January 2010). The DermoTrace® score measures changes related to skin aging by analyzing visual and physiological data of the skin.

[0350] Using this method, it was observed that the double formula promotes skin plumpness from 28 days of use while the formula "vitamin C alone" promotes skin plumpness from 84 days of use (see figure 1). The effect of both products is maintained during the persistent-effect period. However, the double formula has a greater effect on skin plumpness than the control formula after 84 days (D84) of use and then after 15 days of persistent effect (D98).

[0351] - The inventors then measured the density of the skin by ultrasound at t=0 (DO), after 28 days (D28) and after 84 days (D84) of application of the formula according to the invention. An assessment of the persistence of effects was also evaluated 15 days after the last application (day 98).

[0352] The echogenicity of the dermis was measured using a Dermascan C® 2D (Advanced skin Ultrasound 20 MHz). A reduction in the echogenicity of the dermis reflects denser skin, and therefore a densifying effect of the composition tested.

[0353] The inventors observed that the treatment of the skin with the double formula increases the density of the skin and in particular of the dermis after 28 days of treatment and with an even more marked effect after 84 days of twice-daily use. This effect can still be observed 15 days after discontinuation of the treatment (see figure 2).

[0354] Example 2: Influence of ectoin on the stimulation of maximal mitochondrial respiration (respiration under stress conditions)

[0355] Protocol

[0356] Human epidermal keratinocytes of so-called "normal" skin were seeded in a Seahorsespecific 96-well plate and incubated in culture medium until confluence. The medium wasthen replaced with culture medium containing or not containing (control) ectoin at increasing concentrations (1.1 mg / ml, 3.3 mg / ml and 10.0 mg / ml) and the cells were incubated for 24 hours before assessment of mitochondrial respiration. All the experiments were performed in triplicate (n=3).

[0357] The Seahorse XF technology (Agilent) measures the mitochondrial respiration in real time in a microchamber.

[0358] The mitochondrial respiration was measured using the oxygen consumption rate (OCR) of the cells in real time. The various measurement cycles were performed according to the sequential injections:

[0359] - of oligomycin, which inhibits ATP synthase, in order to determine the ATP production; - of FCCP (carbonyl cyanide-4-(trifluoromethoxy)phenylhydrazone), which stimulates the OCR and makes it possible to determine the emergency respiratory capacity, defined as the difference between the maximum value of respiration and basal respiration;

[0360] - of rotenone and antimycin A, which make it possible to halt mitochondrial respiration in order to determine non-mitochondrial respiration.

[0361] The results show the ability of ectoin to boost maximum mitochondrial respiration, suggesting that ectoin can mobilize cellular mechanisms to optimize mitochondrial respiration and generate energy production as required. The stimulatory effect of ectoin on maximum mitochondrial respiration is dose-dependent (see figure 3).

[0362] Example 3 : Composition example

[0363] A composition example according to the invention was prepared comprising the ingredients and contents indicated in the table below. The contents are indicated as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0364] [Table 3]

[0365]

Claims

Claims1. A composition, in particular cosmetic composition, comprising a combination of at least 2, in particular at least 3, more particularly at least 4 cosmetic active agents, said combination of active agents:- directly or indirectly protecting the stability of DNA, and- preventing epigenetic modifications, in particular those affecting the expression of the genes involved in the maintenance of skin integrity, and- preventing or reducing microinflammatory processes, and- preventing or reducing mitochondrial dysfunctions and / or stimulating mitochondrial energy metabolism,in the cells of the skin.

2. The composition as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that at least one of the cosmetic active agents is selected from:active agents which directly or indirectly protect the stability of DNA in the cells of the skin, selected from the group consisting of merocyanines of formula (I), and also the EZE or E / Z geometric isomer forms thereof and tautomers thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates:(i);resveratrol and derivatives thereof and also the geometric isomer forms thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates or a mixture thereof; vitamin E and derivatives thereof, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof or mixtures thereof; ectoin; Punica granatum extract; ferulic acid; an amino sulfonic acid, in particular taurine; and combinations thereof,active agents which prevent epigenetic modifications in the cells of the skin, in particular those affecting the expression of the genes involved in the maintenance of skin integrity, selected from the group consisting of a Calendula officinalis flower extract; merocyanines of formula (I), and also the EZE or E / Z geometric isomer forms thereof and tautomers thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates:(I), in which:A is — O- or -NH;R is a C1-C22 alkyl group, a C2-C22 alkenyl group, a C2-C22 alkynyl group, a C3-C22 cycloalkyl group or a C3-C22 cycloalkenyl group, it being possible for said groups to be interrupted by one or more O;ascorbic acid, in particular vitamin C, and derivatives thereof, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof or mixtures thereof; resveratrol and derivatives thereof and also the geometric isomer forms thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates or a mixture thereof, vitamin E and derivatives thereof, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof or mixtures thereof; and combinations thereof, cosmetic active agents which prevent or reduce microinflammatory processes in the cells of the skin, selected from the group consisting of an extract of Centenella asiatica titrated with asiaticoside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid; vitamin B3 and / or a derivative thereof and / or a salt thereof; 4-(3 -ethoxy -4- hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one; resveratrol and derivatives thereof and also the geometric isomer forms thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates or a mixture thereof; an extract of Inula helenium: and combinations thereof, cosmetic active agents which prevent or reduce mitochondrial dysfunctions and / or stimulate mitochondrial energy metabolism in the cells of the skin, selected from the group consisting of resveratrol and derivatives thereof; capryloylsalicylic acid and / or a salt thereof; vitamins Bl, B3, B6 and B9 and derivatives thereof, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof or mixtures thereof; ionized magnesium Mg2+; Punica granatum extract; an amino sulfonic acid, in particular taurine; and combinations thereof.

3. The composition as claimed in claim 1 or 2, characterized in that at least one of the cosmetic active agents is ectoin.

4. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that at least one of the cosmetic active agents is selected, independently, from the group consisting of:resveratrol, and / or a resveratrol derivative, such as resveratrol triphosphate or polydatin, and also the geometric isomer forms thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates or a mixture thereof;- the merocyanines of formula (I), and also the EZE or E / Z geometric isomer forms thereof and tautomers thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates:- tocopherol, or a derivative thereof, in particular selected from the group consisting of tocopherol esters, such as tocopheryl acetate, tocopheryl palmitate, tocopheryl linoleate, and tocopheryl nicotinate, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof or mixtures thereof; andascorbic acid, in particular vitamin C, or a derivative thereof, in particular selected from the group consisting of ascorbic acid; sodium ascorbate; liposoluble esters, in particular tetrahexyl decyl ascorbate or ascorbyl palmitate; magnesium ascorbyl phosphate; ascorbyl glucoside; glucosamine ascorbate; and ascorbyl acetate, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof or mixtures thereof.

5. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the combination comprises:ectoin; andresveratrol, and / or a resveratrol derivative such as resveratrol triphosphate or polydatin; anda merocyanine of formula (I), and also the EZE or E / Z geometric isomer forms thereof and tautomers thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates:(I); and- tocopherol, or a derivative thereof, in particular selected from the group consisting of tocopherol esters, such as tocopheryl acetate, tocopheryl palmitate, tocopheryllinoleate, and tocopheryl nicotinate, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof or mixtures thereof; andascorbic acid, or a derivative thereof, in particular selected from the group consisting of ascorbic acid; sodium ascorbate; liposoluble esters, in particular tetrahexyl decyl ascorbate or ascorbyl palmitate; magnesium ascorbyl phosphate; ascorbyl glucoside; glucosamine ascorbate; and ascorbyl acetate, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof or mixtures thereof.

6. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 2 to 5, characterized in that the merocyanine(s) of formula (I) and also the EZE or E / Z geometric isomer forms thereof and tautomers thereof is (are) selected from the compounds of formula (I) and also the geometric isomer forms thereof, tautomers thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates in which: A is -O-; R is a C1-C22 alkyl, better still R is a Ci-C6alkyl, which may be interrupted by one or more O.

7. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 2 to 6, characterized in that the merocyanine(s) of formula (I) is (are) selected from the following compounds, and also the EZE geometric isomer forms thereof, and tautomers thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates:>8. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 2 to 7, characterized in that the merocyanine of formula (I) is 2-ethoxyethyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-l-ylidene} ethanoate in the E / Z geometric configuration thereof having the following structure and also the tautomers thereof:(Formula 25)'-and / or in the EZE geometric configuration thereof having the following structure:(Formula 25a)9. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the combination comprises at least resveratrol.

10. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the combination comprises at least 2-ethoxyethyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-l-ylidene} ethanoate.

11. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the combination comprises at least tocopherol, and in particular comprises vitamin E.

12. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the combination comprises at least ascorbic acid, in particular vitamin C.

13. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the combination comprises at least one amino sulfonic acid, in particular selected from the group consisting of aminomethanesulfonic acid, 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid (taurine), aminopropanesulfonic acid, aminobutanesulfomc acid, aminohexanesulfomc acid,aminoisopropylsulfonic acid, aminododecylsulfonic acid, aminobenzenesulfonic acid, aminotoluenesulfonic acid, sulfanilic acid, chlorosulfanilic acid, diaminobenzenesulfonic acid, aminophenolsulfonic acid, aminopropylbenzenesulfonic acid, aminohexylbenzenesulfonic acid, and a mixture thereof, and in particular is taurine.

14. The cosmetic use, in particular topical cosmetic use, of a composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 13, for increasing the longevity of skin cells and skin tissues, in particular in an individual less than 40 years old, in particular 20 to 40 years old.

15. The cosmetic use, in particular topical cosmetic use, of a composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 13, for:- directly or indirectly protecting the stability of DNA, and- preventing epigenetic modifications, in particular those affecting the expression of the genes involved in the maintenance of skin integrity, and- preventing or reducing microinflammatory processes, and- preventing or reducing mitochondrial dysfunctions and / or stimulating mitochondrial energy metabolism,in the cells of the skin.

16. A non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the topical application to these keratin materials of a composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 13.

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