Composition comprising a fatty amine cationic surfactant and three particular alcohols
A composition with fatty amine cationic surfactant, fatty alcohol, and specific alcohols enhances hair conditioning by improving application ease and cosmetic properties, addressing the challenges of existing products.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LOREAL SA
- Filing Date
- 2026-01-12
- Publication Date
- 2026-07-23
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair care products are often difficult to apply, lack natural ingredients, and do not provide sufficient conditioning and manageability, especially for fine and sensitized hair.
A composition comprising a fatty amine cationic surfactant, fatty alcohol, C2-C6 polyol, and Ci-C6 monoalcohol, in specific weight ratios, forming a stable, homogeneous, slightly gelled liquid that transforms into a creamy texture upon application, enhancing disentangling, smoothness, suppleness, and manageability.
The composition improves hair conditioning by providing easy application, uniform distribution, and faster rinsing, while maintaining good cosmetic properties such as shine, smooth feel, and suppleness, with improved manageability and lightness.
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Abstract
Description
[0001] COMPOSITION COMPRISING A FATTY AMINE CATIONIC SURFACTANT AND THREE PARTICULAR ALCOHOLS
[0002] The present invention relates to the field of treating keratin fibres, notably the hair, and more particularly to conditioning / caring for the hair.
[0003] The invention relates to a composition comprising at least one fatty amine cationic surfactant, at least one fatty alcohol, at least one polyol and at least one monoalcohol, the polyol and the monoalcohol being present in a particular weight ratio.
[0004] The invention also relates to a process for treating keratin fibres, in particular the hair, which involves at least one step of applying the composition according to the invention to said fibres.
[0005] The invention also relates to a process for treating keratin fibres, in particular the hair, which involves the steps of applying a dye composition and the composition according to the invention to said fibres.
[0006] Hair is generally damaged and embrittled by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, and also by mechanical or chemical treatments, such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving and / or relaxing, or even repeated washing.
[0007] Hair is thus damaged by these various factors and may over time become dry, coarse, brittle or dull, notably in fragile areas, and more particularly at the ends.
[0008] To overcome these drawbacks, it is common practice to resort to haircare treatments using compositions that condition the hair, giving it satisfactory cosmetic properties, notably in terms of smoothness, sheen, softness, suppleness, lightness, a natural feel and good disentangling properties. These haircare compositions intended to be applied regularly to the hair may be, for example, hair conditioners, masks or sera, and may be in the form of gels, hair lotions or care creams that are more or less thick.
[0009] The products present on the market may have a thick texture and may thus be difficult to take up, to apply and to spread over the entire head of hair.
[0010] In addition, users are increasingly in search of products mainly comprising ingredients of natural origin.
[0011] The object of the present invention is to propose cosmetic compositions, notably hair compositions, which are advantageously in a stable, homogeneous, transparent, slightly gelled (which means slightly thickened) liquid form, allowing the formation of a lamellar phase on contact with water. These compositions areparticularly useful in the field of hair care and / or conditioning; notably rinse-out care preferentially for fine hair and / or sensitized hair. In particular, the slightly gelled texture transforms into a creamy texture upon application to wet hair.
[0012] In order to meet users’ needs, the present invention proposes a stable, homogeneous, transparent composition which provides very good cosmetic performance properties, with an improvement in disentangling, in smooth feel, suppleness, sheen and manageability, along with lightness. The present invention also affords improved working properties, notably a texture which facilitates the application thereof, uniform distribution and also improved, notably faster, rinsing. More particularly, the slightly gelled texture of the compositions according to the invention makes them easier to handle and affords greater precision at the time of application to the area to be treated, when compared with more liquid compositions that flow too quickly. Thus, these slightly gelled compositions enable the use of less product while ensuring good disentangling properties and having very good cosmetic properties, notably in terms of a smooth feel, suppleness, sheen, manageability and lightness.
[0013] These aims are achieved with the present invention, one subject of which is notably a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, comprising:
[0014] a) at least one fatty amine cationic surfactant,
[0015] b) at least one fatty alcohol comprising from 7 to 40 carbon atoms,
[0016] c) at least one C2-C6 polyol, and
[0017] d) at least one monoalcohol comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
[0018] and wherein:
[0019] - the weight ratio of the total content of monoalcohol(s) d) to the total content of polyol(s) c) is greater than or equal to 2, and
[0020] - the total content of C2-C6 polyol(s) c) and of Ci-Ce monoalcohol(s) d) ranges from 32% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0021] It has been found that the compositions according to the invention afford better conditioning properties, and the hair thus treated is shiny, has a smooth feel, is supple, easy to disentangle and more manageable, while also being light.
[0022] The compositions according to the invention also have good working qualities in the form of a gelled texture. The compositions according to the invention are notably stable, homogeneous and transparent. In addition, they are easy to apply and to spread on keratin fibres.The invention also relates to a process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least one step of applying a composition according to the invention to the keratin fibres.
[0023] A subject of the invention is also a process for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least the following steps: (i) a step of applying a composition (C) comprising at least one dye to keratin fibres, and
[0024] (ii) a step of applying a composition according to the invention, different from the dye composition (C), to the keratin fibres.
[0025] Other subjects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the example that follows.
[0026] In the present description, and unless otherwise indicated:
[0027] - the expression “at least one” is equivalent to the expression “one or more” and can be replaced therewith;
[0028] - the expression “between...and...” is equivalent to the expression “ranging from...to...” and can be replaced therewith, and implies that the limits are included;
[0029] - for the purposes of the present invention, the term “greater than” and, respectively, the term “less than” refer to an open range which is strictly greater, or, respectively, strictly less, and thus that the limits are not included;
[0030] - according to the present patent application, the term “keratin fibres” more particularly means human keratin fibres, more preferentially the hair, the eyebrows and the eyelashes, even more preferentially the hair;
[0031] - for the purposes of the present invention, the term “hair” means head hair. This term does not correspond to bodily hairs, the eyebrows or the eyelashes;
[0032] - according to the present patent application, the term “fatty acid” means an organic acid comprising in its structure a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain comprising from 7 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0033] - according to the present patent application, the term “fatty alcohol” means an alcohol comprising in its structure a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain comprising from 7 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms;- according to the present invention, the term “(poly)oxyalkylenated compound” means a compound comprising one or more ethylene oxide groups and / or propylene oxide groups; preferably, the number of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide groups may range from 1 to 150; more preferentially, the (poly)oxyalkylenated compound does not comprise any glycerol groups;
[0034] - according to the present invention, “(poly)glycerolated compound” means a compound comprising one or more glycerol groups; preferably, the number of glycerol groups may range from 0 to 30.
[0035] Brief description of the drawings
[0036] Further aims, features and advantages of the invention will emerge on reading the following description, which is given solely by way of non-limiting example and with reference to the appended drawings, in which:
[0037] - Figure l is a photograph of composition Al according to the invention (see Example 1); and
[0038] - Figure 2 is a photograph of comparative composition Bl (see Example 1).
[0039] Composition
[0040] Fatty amine cationic surfactants
[0041] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty amine cationic surfactant a).
[0042] The term “cationic surfactant” means a surfactant including, as ionic or ionizable groups, only cationic groups. In the present description, a species is termed as being “cationic” when it bears at least one permanent positive charge or when it can be ionized as a positively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition used in the process of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any anionic charge.
[0043] Preferably, the fatty amine cationic surfactant(s) are chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines (optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated or (poly)glycerolated), salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0044] The term “fatty amine” means a compound comprising at least one optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated or (poly)glycerolated primary, secondary or tertiary aminefunction, or salts thereof, and comprising at least one C7-C30, preferably C8-C30, hydrocarbon chain.
[0045] Said fatty amine cationic surfactants are non-silicone surfactants, that is to say that they do not contain any Si-0 groups.
[0046] Preferably, the fatty amine cationic surfactants that are useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated or (poly)glycerolated.
[0047] As fatty amine cationic surfactants, mention may be made of amidoamines. The amidoamines according to the invention may advantageously be chosen from fatty amidoamines, it being possible for the fatty chain to be borne by the amine group or by the amido group.
[0048] The term “amidoamine” means a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.
[0049] The term “fatty amidoamine” means an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C7-C30 hydrocarbon chain.
[0050] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines that are useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated or (poly)glycerolated.
[0051] Among the fatty amidoamines according to the invention, mention may be made most particularly of the amidoamines of formula RC0NHR”N(R’)2 in which: - R represents a substituted or unsubstituted, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing from 6 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C6-C29 and preferably C7-C23 alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C6-C29 and preferably C7-C23 alkenyl radical;
[0052] - R” represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical containing fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms and better still 3 carbon atoms; and
[0053] - R’, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical.
[0054] Mention may in particular be made of the following fatty amidoamines: oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine,lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, my ri stami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, b ehenami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tall amidopropyl dimethylamine, olivami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
[0055] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, b ehenami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof; preferentially from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof, and better still stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
[0056] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are not in quaternized form when they are introduced into the composition used in the process according to the invention (which does not rule out the fact that they can “quaternize” in situ).
[0057] Preferably, the fatty amine cationic surfactants are chosen from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C7-C30 hydrocarbon chain;
[0058] more preferentially chosen from the amidoamines of formula RC0NHR"N(R')2 in which:
[0059] - R represents a substituted or unsubstituted, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing from 6 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C6-C29 and preferably C7-C23 alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C6-C29 and preferably C7-C23 alkenyl radical;
[0060] - R” represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical containing fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms and better still 3 carbon atoms; and
[0061] - R1, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical; even more preferentially chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myri stami dopropy 1dimethylamine, b ehenami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ri cinol eami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof;
[0062] better still from ol eami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof;
[0063] even better still from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof;
[0064] and even better still stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
[0065] Preferably, the total content of fatty amine cationic surfactant(s) is in the range from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.25% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.5% to 3% by weight, and better still from 1% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0066] Preferably, the total content of fatty amine cationic surfactant(s) chosen from fatty amidoamines is in the range from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.25% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.5% to 3% by weight, and better still from 1% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0067] Preferably, the total content of fatty amine cationic surfactant(s) chosen from the fatty amidoamines of formula RCONHR”N(R’)2 is in the range from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.25% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.5% to 3% by weight, and better still from 1% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0068] C7-C 40 fatty alcohols
[0069] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty alcohol b) comprising from 7 to 40 carbon atoms.
[0070] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one solid fatty alcohol comprising from 7 to 40 carbon atoms.The term “solid fatty alcohol” means a fatty alcohol having a melting point (m.p.) strictly greater than 25°C (m.p. >25°C) at atmospheric pressure (1.013><105Pa).
[0071] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used are insoluble in water, i.e. they have a solubility in water of less than 1% by weight and preferably less than 0.5% by weight at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013><105Pa).
[0072] The term “fatty alcohol” means an aliphatic alcohol comprising from 7 to 40 carbon atoms and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.
[0073] The fatty alcohols b) according to the invention are different from the polyols c), the monoalcohols d) and the polysaccharides as described below.
[0074] The fatty alcohols according to the invention are non-silicone alcohols, that is to say that they do not contain any Si-0 groups.
[0075] Preferably, the fatty alcohols, in particular solid fatty alcohols, have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 7 to 40, better still from 10 to 30 or even from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
[0076] Preferentially, the fatty alcohols, in particular solid fatty alcohols, have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group (not substituted with one or more OH groups), comprising from 7 to 40, better still from 10 to 30 or even from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
[0077] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
[0078] - lauryl alcohol (1 -dodecanol);
[0079] - myristyl alcohol (1 -tetradecanol);
[0080] - cetyl alcohol (1 -hexadecanol);
[0081] - stearyl alcohol (1 -octadecanol);
[0082] - arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol);
[0083] - behenyl alcohol (1 -docosanol);
[0084] - lignoceryl alcohol (1-tetracosanol);
[0085] - ceryl alcohol (1-hexacosanol);
[0086] - montanyl alcohol (1-octacosanol);
[0087] - myricyl alcohol (1-triacontanol).
[0088] Preferentially, the fatty alcohol(s), in particular solid fatty alcohols, are chosen from lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, ceryl alcohol, montanyl alcohol, myricylalcohol, and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol, more preferentially from myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.
[0089] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of fatty alcohol(s), more preferentially solid fatty alcohol(s), comprising from 7 to 40 carbon atoms, is in the range from 0.5% to 25% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 22% by weight, even more preferentially from 3% to 20% by weight, better still from 5% to 18% by weight, even better still from 8% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0090] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of fatty alcohol(s) chosen from myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol is in the range from 0.5% to 25% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 22% by weight, even more preferentially from 3% to 20% by weight, better still from 5% to 18% by weight, even better still from 8% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0091] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol in a total content in the range from 0.5% to 25% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 22% by weight, even more preferentially from 3% to 20% by weight, better still from 5% to 18% by weight, even better still from 8% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0092] C2-C6 Polyols
[0093] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one C2-C6 polyol c).
[0094] The term “polyol” means a polyhydric alcohol, i.e. a hydrocarbon chain including two or more hydroxyl groups (-OH). The polyol may have a linear or branched aliphatic or cyclic or even aromatic molecular structure, and may be saturated or unsaturated.
[0095] The polyols c) according to the invention are different from the polysaccharides as described below.
[0096] The polyols c) according to the invention are non-silicone polyols, that is to say that they do not contain any Si-0 groups.Preferably, said C2-C6 polyol(s) are linear and saturated; they may comprise from 2 to 6 hydroxyl (-OH) groups, notably from 2 to 4, better still from 2 to 3 and preferentially 2 hydroxyl (-OH) groups.
[0097] According to the invention, the C2-C6 polyols c) do not comprise any oxyalkylenated or glycerolated groups.
[0098] The polyols c) according to the invention are advantageously liquid.
[0099] The term “liquid polyol” means a polyol having a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013><105Pa).
[0100] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments. In the present patent application, all the melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013*105Pa).
[0101] Preferably, the C2-C6 polyols according to the invention are chosen from linear, saturated C2-C6 polyols comprising two -OH groups (diols).
[0102] Preferentially, the C2-C6 polyols may be chosen from propylene glycol (1,2-propanediol), 1,3 -propanediol, butylene glycol (1,3 -butanediol), 2,3-butanediol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol (1,2-pentanediol), and mixtures thereof. Very preferentially, the C2-C6 polyol is propylene glycol.
[0103] Preferably, the total content of C2-C6 polyol(s) c) is in the range from 1% to 30% by weight, more preferentially from 2% to 25% by weight, even more preferentially from 8% to 22% by weight, better still from 10% to 20% by weight, and even better still from 14% to 18% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0104] Preferably, the total content of C2-C6 polyol(s) chosen from linear saturated C2-C6 diols is in the range from 1% to 30% by weight, more preferentially from 2% to 25% by weight, even more preferentially from 8% to 22% by weight, better still from 10% to 20% by weight, and even better still from 14% to 18% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0105] Preferably, the total content of propylene glycol is in the range from 1% to 30% by weight, more preferentially from 2% to 25% by weight, even more preferentially from 8% to 22% by weight, better still from 10% to 20% by weight, andeven better still from 14% to 18% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0106] Ci-C6monoalcohols
[0107] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one monoalcohol d) comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
[0108] The term “monoalcohol” means a molecule including only one hydroxyl (-OH) group, generally of formula R-OH in which R is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, aliphatic or cyclic or even aromatic Ci-Ce hydrocarbon chain. The OH radical may be in the primary, secondary or tertiary position.
[0109] The monoalcohols d) according to the invention are different from the polyols c) as described above and from the polysaccharides as described below.
[0110] The monoalcohols d) according to the invention are non-silicone monoalcohols, that is to say that they do not contain any Si-0 groups.
[0111] Preferably, said Ci-Ce monoalcohol(s) d) are saturated, or even linear and saturated.
[0112] Preferably, the monoalcohol(s) d) comprise from 2 to 4 carbon atoms.
[0113] Preferably, the C2-C4 monoalcohol(s) d) are saturated, or even linear and saturated.
[0114] According to the invention, the monoalcohol(s) d) do not comprise any oxyalkylenated or glycerolated groups.
[0115] More preferentially, the monoalcohol(s) are chosen from ethanol, propanol, isopropanol and butanol, and mixtures thereof, even more preferentially ethanol.
[0116] Preferably, the total content of Ci-Ce monoalcohol(s) d) is greater than or equal to 30% by weight, more preferentially in the range from 30% to 65% by weight, even more preferentially from 32% to 60% by weight, better still from 35% to 55% by weight, and even better still from 40% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0117] Preferably, the total content of saturated C2-C4 monoalcohol(s) is greater than or equal to 30% by weight, more preferentially in the range from 30% to 65% by weight, even more preferentially from 32% to 60% by weight, better still from 35% to 55% by weight, and even better still from 40% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Preferably, the total content of ethanol is greater than or equal to 30% by weight, more preferentially in the range from 30% to 65% by weight, even more preferentially from 32% to 60% by weight, better still from 35% to 55% by weight, and even better still from 40% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0118] The total content of C2-C6 polyol(s) and of Ci-Ce monoalcohol(s) (i.e. ingredients c) + d)) is in the range from 32% to 80% by weight, more preferentially from 35% to 80% by weight, even more preferentially from 40% to 80% by weight, better still from 45% to 80% by weight, even better still from 50% to 75% by weight, and even better still from 55% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0119] Preferably, the total content of C2-C6 polyol(s) c) chosen from linear saturated C2-C6 diols and of monoalcohol(s) d) chosen from saturated C2-C4 monoalcohols is in the range from 32% to 80% by weight, more preferentially from 35% to 80% by weight, even more preferentially from 40% to 80% by weight, better still from 45% to 80% by weight, even better still from 50% to 75% by weight, and even better still from 55% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0120] Preferably, the total content of propylene glycol and ethanol is in the range from 32% to 80% by weight, more preferentially from 35% to 80% by weight, even more preferentially from 40% to 80% by weight, better still from 45% to 80% by weight, even better still from 50% to 75% by weight, and even better still from 55% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0121] Monoalcohol / polyol weight ratio
[0122] According to the invention, the weight ratio of the total content of Ci-Ce monoalcohol(s) d) to the total content of C2-C6 polyol(s) c) is greater than or equal to 2.
[0123] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of Ci-Ce monoalcohol(s) d) to the total content of C2-C6 polyol(s) c) is strictly greater than 2 (> 2), more preferentially greater than or equal to 2.5 (> 2.5), even more preferentially greater than or equal to 3, better still in the range from 2.5 to 6, even better still from 3 to 6, and even better still from 3 to 5, or even from 3 to 4.Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of monoalcohol(s) d) chosen from saturated C2-C4 monoalcohols to the total content of C2-C6 polyol(s) c) chosen from linear saturated C2-C6 diols is strictly greater than 2 (> 2), more preferentially greater than or equal to 2.5 (> 2.5), even more preferentially greater than or equal to 3, better still in the range from 2.5 to 6, even better still from 3 to 6, and even better still from 3 to 5, or even from 3 to 4.
[0124] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of ethanol to the total content of propylene glycol is strictly greater than 2 (> 2), more preferentially greater than or equal to 2.5 (> 2.5), even more preferentially greater than or equal to 3, better still in the range from 2.5 to 6, even better still from 3 to 6, and even better still from 3 to 5, or even from 3 to 4.
[0125] Polysaccharides
[0126] Preferably, the composition also comprises at least one polysaccharide.
[0127] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polysaccharide” means a sugar in which the monosaccharides as defined below are linked via a glycosidic covalent bond, to give simple polymers comprising at least 11 monosaccharide units. Preferentially, the polysaccharides of the invention include between 20 and 100 000 monosaccharide units.
[0128] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “monosaccharide” or “monosaccharide unit” means a sugar comprising only one unit, i.e. which does not include any glycosidic covalent bond with another sugar.
[0129] In the context of the invention, the polysaccharides may also be referred to as polymers bearing sugar units.
[0130] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “sugar unit” means an oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon compound containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which includes at least 4 carbon atoms.
[0131] The sugar units may be optionally modified by substitution, and / or by oxidation and / or by dehydration.
[0132] The sugar units of the polysaccharides according to the invention are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, anhydrogalactose, galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, galactose sulfate, anhydrogalactose sulfate, and fructose.The polysaccharides that may be used according to the invention may be natural or synthetic.
[0133] The polysaccharides that may be used according to the invention may be nonionic, anionic, amphoteric or cationic.
[0134] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one nonionic polysaccharide.
[0135] More preferentially, the nonionic polysaccharide(s) are chosen from non-associative nonionic polysaccharides, associative nonionic polysaccharides, and mixtures thereof.
[0136] Non-associative nonionic polysaccharides
[0137] Non-associative nonionic polysaccharides that may notably be mentioned include native gums such as:
[0138] a) tree or shrub exudates;
[0139] b) gums derived from algae, including:
[0140] - agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose);
[0141] c) gums derived from seeds or tubers, including:
[0142] - guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);
[0143] - locust bean gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);
[0144] - fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);
[0145] - tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose);
[0146] - konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose);
[0147] d) microbial gums, including:
[0148] - scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer);
[0149] e) plant extracts, including:
[0150] - cellulose (glucose polymer);
[0151] - starch (glucose polymer) and
[0152] - inulin.
[0153] These non-associative nonionic polysaccharides may be physically or chemically modified. A physical treatment that may notably be mentioned is the temperature.
[0154] Chemical treatments that may be mentioned include esterification, etherification, amidation or oxidation reactions. These treatments can also afford nonionic polymers.Preferably, these chemical or physical treatments are applied to guar gums, locust bean gums, starches and celluloses.
[0155] The nonionic guar gums that may be used according to the invention may be modified with Ci-Ce (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups.
[0156] Among the Ci-Ce (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups, mention may be made, by way of example, of hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.
[0157] These guar gums are well known in the prior art and may be prepared, for example, by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, for instance propylene oxides, with the guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.
[0158] The degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably ranges from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum.
[0159] Such nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP120 by the company Rhodia Chimie.
[0160] The starch molecules may be derived from any plant source of starch, notably such as com, potato, oat, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley, pea or wheat. Use may also be made of the hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above. The starch is preferably derived from potato.
[0161] The starches may be chemically or physically modified, notably by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation, heat treatments.
[0162] The non-associative nonionic polysaccharides of the invention may be cellulose-based polymers not including a C7 to C30 and preferably C10 to C30 fatty chain in their structure.
[0163] According to the invention, the term “cellulose-based polymer” refers to any polysaccharide compound bearing in its structure sequences of glucose residues linked together via P-1,4 bonds; in addition to unsubstituted celluloses, the cellulose derivatives may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic.
[0164] Thus, the cellulose-based polymers that may be used according to the invention may be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses, including those in a microcrystalline form, and cellulose ethers.
[0165] Among these cellulose-based polymers, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ether esters are distinguished.Among the cellulose esters are mineral esters of cellulose (cellulose nitrates, sulfates, phosphates, etc.), organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates or acetatetrimellitates, etc.), and mixed organic / mineral esters of cellulose, such as cellulose acetatebutyrate sulfates and cellulose acetatepropionate sulfates. Among the cellulose ether esters, mention may be made of hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.
[0166] Among the nonionic cellulose ethers not bearing a C7-C30 fatty chain, i.e. “non-associative” cellulose ethers, mention may be made of (Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example Ethocel standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical); (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example Natrosol 250 HHR sold by Aquaion) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example Klucel EF from Aquaion); mixed (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkyl(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses (for example Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical), hydroxy ethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxy ethylethylcelluloses (for example Bermocoll E 481 FQ from AkzoNobel) and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.
[0167] The non-associative nonionic polysaccharide(s) may advantageously be chosen from nonionic cellulose ethers not bearing a C7 to C30 fatty chain and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from hydroxyethylcelluloses, hydroxypropylcelluloses, ethylcelluloses and mixtures thereof, and better still ethylcelluloses and mixtures thereof.
[0168] Associative nonionic polysaccharides
[0169] As nonionic polysaccharides that may be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of associative nonionic polysaccharides.
[0170] It is recalled that “associative polymers” are polymers that are capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules.
[0171] Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic zone and at least one hydrophobic zone.
[0172] The term “hydrophobic group” means a radical or polymer with a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain, comprising at least 7 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.In other words, for the purposes of the present invention, the term “associative polysaccharide” means a polysaccharide comprising at least one hydrophilic group and at least one hydrophobic group as defined above.
[0173] Preferentially, the hydrocarbon group originates from a monofunctional compound. By way of example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a C7-C40 fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. It may also denote a hydrocarbon polymer, for instance polybutadiene.
[0174] The associative polysaccharides that may be used according to the invention may be chosen from nonionic associative polysaccharides, preferably from nonionic associative celluloses and nonionic associative galactomannan gums.
[0175] Preferentially, the associative nonionic polysaccharides are chosen from: (1) celluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, preferably from: - hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably C7 to C22, for instance the cetylhydroxyethylcellulose sold notably under the reference Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS (Ci6 alkyls) sold by the company Ashland, or the product Polysurf 67CS sold by the company Ashland, - hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with polyalkylene glycol alkylphenol ether groups, such as the product Amercell Polymer HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) nonylphenol ether) sold by the company Amerchol,
[0176] - and mixtures thereof;
[0177] (2) hydroxypropyl guars modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, such as the product Esaflor HM 22 (C22 alkyl chain) sold by the company Lamberti, and the products RE210-18 (C14 alkyl chain) and RE205-1 (C20 alkyl chain) sold by the company Rhodia.
[0178] The associative nonionic polysaccharides may advantageously be chosen from celluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, preferentially from hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably C7-C22.
[0179] Advantageously, the polysaccharide(s) b) are chosen from nonionic polysaccharides; more preferentially from non-associative nonionic polysaccharides,associative nonionic polysaccharides, and mixtures thereof; even more preferentially from non-associative nonionic polysaccharides.
[0180] Better still, the polysaccharide(s) b) that may be used according to the invention are chosen from non-associative nonionic guar gums, non-associative cellulose polymers, and mixtures thereof; better still from nonionic cellulose ethers not bearing a C7-C30 fatty chain; even better still from hydroxyethylcelluloses, hydroxypropylcelluloses, ethylcelluloses, and mixtures thereof; or even from ethylcelluloses.
[0181] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of polysaccharide(s) is in the range from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 10% by weight, better still from 2% to 6% by weight, even better still from 2.5% to 4.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0182] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of nonionic polysaccharide(s) is in the range from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 10% by weight, better still from 2% to 6% by weight, even better still from 2.5% to 4.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0183] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of non-associative nonionic polysaccharide(s), preferably chosen from guar gums and cellulose polymers, is in the range from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 10% by weight, better still from 2% to 6% by weight, even better still from 2.5% to 4.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0184] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of nonionic cellulose ether(s) not containing a C7-C30 fatty chain, and mixtures thereof, is in the range from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 10% by weight, better still from 2% to 6% by weight, even better still from 2.5% to 4.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0185] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of ethylcellulose(s) is in the range from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 10% by weight, better still from 2% to 6% by weight, even better still from 2.5% to 4.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Carboxylic acids
[0186] Preferably, the composition according to the invention also comprises one or more carboxylic acids comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
[0187] Preferably, they correspond to formula (I) below:
[0188]
[0189] in which:
[0190] - n is an integer between 0 and 2, better still n = 0 or 1, preferably n = 0;
[0191] - A is a monovalent (when n = 0) or multivalent (when n is other than 0), saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched, cyclic or even aromatic, hydrocarbon group comprising from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, better still from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl (-OH) and / or amino (NH2) groups.
[0192] Mention may be made in particular of the carboxylic acids of formula (I) in which:
[0193] - n = 0 and A is a monovalent (Ci-Cs)alkyl, notably (Ci-C4)alkyl and better still (C2-C4)alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl (-OH) and / or amino (NH2) groups, notably 1 or 2 -OH, preferably 1 -OH; or
[0194] - n = 1 and A is a divalent (Ci-C4)alkyl and better still (C2-C4)alkyl group, substituted with one or more hydroxyl and / or amino (NH2) groups, notably 1 or 2 -OH and / or NH2; - n = 2 and A is a trivalent (Ci-C3)alkyl and better still (C2-C3)alkyl group, substituted with one or more hydroxyl and / or amino (NH2) groups, notably 1 or 2 -OH, preferably 1 -OH;
[0195] Preferentially, the carboxylic acids may be chosen from:
[0196] - lactic acid (n = 0 and A monovalent = -CH(OH)CH3)
[0197] - tartaric acid (n = 1 and A divalent = -CH(OH)-CH(OH)-)
[0198] - glutamic acid (n = 1 and A divalent = -CH(NH2)-CH2-CH2-)
[0199] - citric acid (n = 2 and A trivalent = -CH2-CHOH-CH2-)
[0200] - glycolic acid (n = 0 and A monovalent = -CH2(OH)), and
[0201] - levulinic acid (n = 0 and A monovalent = -CH2CH2C(O)CH3).More preferentially, the carboxylic acid is chosen from lactic acid, glycolic acid, levulinic acid and mixtures thereof.
[0202] Even more preferentially, the composition according to the invention comprises lactic acid.
[0203] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of Ci-Ce carboxylic acid(s) is in the range from 0.1% to 4% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 3% by weight, even better still from 0.4% to 2% by weight, and preferentially from 0.6% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0204] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of carboxylic acid(s) chosen from lactic acid, glycolic acid, levulinic acid and mixtures thereof, is in the range from 0.1% to 4% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 3% by weight, even better still from 0.4% to 2% by weight, and preferentially from 0.6% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0205] Preferably, when it is present, the total content of lactic acid is in the range from 0.1% to 4% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 3% by weight, even better still from 0.4% to 2% by weight, and preferentially from 0.6% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0206] Additional fatty substances
[0207] Preferably, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one additional fatty substance, different from the fatty alcohols b) described previously.
[0208] Preferably, the additional fatty substance(s) are chosen from triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, Cu-Ceo fatty esters other than the triglyceride oils, and mixtures thereof.
[0209] According to the invention, the additional fatty substances are different from fatty amine cationic surfactants, the fatty alcohols, the polyols, the polysaccharides and the monoalcohols as described previously, and also from the fatty acids.
[0210] The term “fatty substance" means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013* 105Pa) (solubility in water of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight and even more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight). They bear in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chainincluding at least 7 carbon atoms and / or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, di chloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
[0211] The additional fatty substances of the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.
[0212] Preferably, the additional fatty substances that are useful according to the invention are non-silicone fatty substances.
[0213] The term “non-silicone fatty substance” refers to a fatty substance not containing any Si-0 bonds and the term “silicone fatty substance” refers to a fatty substance containing at least one Si-0 bond.
[0214] The term “liquid fatty substance” means a fatty substance with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013><105Pa) and the term “solid fatty substance” means a fatty substance with a melting point (m.p.) strictly greater than 25°C (m.p. > 25°C) at atmospheric pressure (1.013><105Pa).
[0215] The triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides including from 7 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, com oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0216] The term “ester” means, in the usual manner, an ester of a carboxylic acid and of an alcohol.
[0217] According to the invention, the fatty alcohol, which makes it possible to form by esterification the Cu-Ceo fatty esters is a monoalcohol (i.e. alcohol comprising a single hydroxyl group -OH) or a diol (i.e. alcohol comprising two hydroxyl groups -OH), preferably a monoalcohol.
[0218] Preferably, the fatty ester(s) that are useful in the invention comprise from 18 to 50 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 22 to 40 carbon atoms, even more preferentially from 24 to 36 carbon atoms and better still from 26 to 32 carbon atoms.Cu-Ceo fatty esters that may notably be mentioned include C1-C22 (di)alkyl malates, said C1-C22 (di)alkyl malates comprising between 14 and 60 carbon atoms.
[0219] Better still, the fatty ester(s) that are useful in the invention comprise from 28 to 30 carbon atoms, and even better still, the fatty ester(s) that are useful in the invention are chosen from di-Cn-13 alkyl malate.
[0220] Preferably, the additional fatty substance(s) are chosen from triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, Cu-Ceo fatty esters other than triglyceride oils, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from liquid triglycerides of fatty acids including from 7 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, C28-C30 fatty esters different from triglyceride oils, in particular di-C 12-13 alkyl malate, and mixtures thereof.
[0221] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of additional fatty substance(s) other than the abovementioned fatty alcohols is in the range from 0.5% to 25% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 20% by weight, even more preferentially from 3% to 15% by weight, and better still from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0222] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of additional fatty substance(s) chosen from triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, Cu-Ceo fatty esters other than triglyceride oils, and mixtures thereof, is in the range from 0.5% to 25% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 20% by weight, even more preferentially from 3% to 15% by weight, and better still from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0223] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of triglyceride oil(s) of plant or synthetic origin is in the range from 0.5% to 25% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 20% by weight, even more preferentially from 3% to 15% by weight, and better still from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0224] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of caprylic / capric acid triglyceride(s) is in the range from 0.5% to 25% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 20% by weight, even more preferentially from 3% to 15% by weight, and better still from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0225] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of Cu-Ceo fatty ester(s) other than triglyceride oils is in the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, morepreferentially from 0.05% to 6% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 3% by weight, and better still from 0.5% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0226] Preferably, when it is present, the total content of di-Cn-13 alkyl malate is in the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 6% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 3% by weight, and better still from 0.5% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0227] Additional cationic surfactants
[0228] Preferably, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one additional cationic surfactant, different from the fatty amine cationic surfactants described previously.
[0229] According to the invention, the additional cationic surfactants described herein are necessarily different from the fatty amine cationic surfactants as described previously.
[0230] Preferably, the additional cationic surfactants, different from the fatty amine cationic surfactants described previously, are chosen from
[0231] - the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (la):
[0232] X (la)
[0233]
[0234] in which:
[0235] the groups Rs to Rn, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Rs to Rn comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; it being possible for the aliphatic groups to comprise heteroatoms notably such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or halogens; and
[0236] X' is an anion notably chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfonates or (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonates.
[0237] The aliphatic groups Rs to Rn may be chosen from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, (C2-C6) polyoxyalkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (Ci2-C22)alkylamido(C2-Ce)alkyl, (Ci2-C22)alkyl acetate, and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups.Mention may notably be made of tetraalkylammonium halides, notably chlorides, such as dialkyl dimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group includes from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride.
[0238] Mention may also be made of palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or stearamidopropyldimethyl-(myristyl acetate)-ammonium halides, and notably chlorides; notably the product sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the company Van Dyk.
[0239] - quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, of formula (IVa) below:
[0240]
[0241] in which:
[0242] - R22 is chosen from Ci-Ce alkyl groups and Ci-Ce hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups,
[0243] - R23 is chosen from the group R26-C(=O)-; linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon groups R27; and a hydrogen atom,
[0244] - R25 is chosen from the group R28-C(=O)-; linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci-Ce hydrocarbon groups R29; and a hydrogen atom,
[0245] - R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon groups,
[0246] - r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6, - rl and tl, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1,
[0247] - y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,
[0248] - x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10, - X' is an anion,
[0249] it being understood that r2 + rl = 2r and tl + t2 = 2t, and that the sum x + y + z ranges from 1 to 15, with the proviso that when x = 0, then R23 denotes R27 and when z = 0, then R25 designates R29.The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, preferably linear. Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.
[0250] Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.
[0251] When R23 is a hydrocarbon group R27, it may comprise from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or else may comprise from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
[0252] When R25 is a hydrocarbon group R29, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
[0253] Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly from linear or branched C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups. Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1. Advantageously, y is equal to 1.
[0254] Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, have a value of 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
[0255] The anion X' is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, a (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate, a (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfonate or a (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonate, a methanesulfonate, a phosphate, a nitrate, a tosylate, an anion derived from organic acid such as an acetate or a lactate or any other anion that is compatible with ammonium bearing an ester function. The anion X' is more particularly a chloride, a methyl sulfate or an ethyl sulfate.
[0256] Use is more particularly made, in the composition according to the invention, of the ammonium salts of formula (IVa) in which:
[0257] - R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group,
[0258] - x and y are equal to 1,
[0259] - z is equal to 0 or 1,
[0260] - r, s and t are equal to 2,
[0261] - R23 is chosen from the group R26-C(=O)-; methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon groups, and a hydrogen atom,
[0262] - R25 is chosen from the group R28-C(=O)-; and a hydrogen atom,
[0263] - R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
[0264] Advantageously, the hydrocarbon groups are linear.Among the compounds of formula (IVa), mention may be made of the salts, notably the chloride or methyl sulfate of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyl oxy ethylhydroxy ethylmethylammonium, monoacyl oxy ethyldihydroxy ethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium or monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are derived more particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.
[0265] These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, an alkyldiethanolamine or an alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with fatty acids or with fatty acid mixtures notably of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof. This esterification may be followed by quaternization by means of an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin. Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Henkel, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company CECA or Rewoquat® WE 18 by the company Evonik.
[0266] The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts. Use may also be made of the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874554 and US-A-4 137 180. Use may also be made of the behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride sold, for example, by the company Kao under the name Quartamin BTC 131.
[0267] Preferably, the cationic surfactants are chosen from those of formula (la) or (IVa), and more preferentially from cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium and dipalmitoylethylhydroxy ethylmethylammonium salts and mixtures thereof; and even more preferentially from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.Better still, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one additional cationic surfactant which is behenyltrimethylammonium methosulfate.
[0268] When they are present in the composition according to the invention, the total amount of the additional cationic surfactant(s) preferably ranges from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.1% to 9% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 6% by weight, and even better still from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0269] When they are present in the composition according to the invention, the total amount of cationic surfactant(s) chosen from those of formula (la) or (IVa) preferably ranges from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.1% to 9% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 6% by weight, and even better still from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0270] When it is present in the composition according to the invention, the total amount of behenyltrimethylammonium methosulfate preferably ranges from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.1% to 9% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 6% by weight, and even better still from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0271] Nonionic surfactants
[0272] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may optionally also comprise at least one nonionic surfactant.
[0273] According to the invention, the nonionic surfactant(s) are different from the polysaccharides, the fatty alcohols and the additional fatty substances as described previously.
[0274] The nonionic surfactant(s) that may be used in the composition of the present invention are described, for example, in the Handbook of Surfactants by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pages 116-178.
[0275] Examples of nonionic surfactants that may be mentioned include the following compounds, alone or as a mixture:
[0276] - oxyalkylenated (Cs-C24)alkylphenols;
[0277] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated C8-C40 alcohols, preferably including one or two fatty chains;- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated Cs-Cso fatty acid amides;
[0278] - esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Cs-Cso acids and of polyethylene glycols;
[0279] - preferably oxyethylenated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Cs-Cso acids and of sorbitol;
[0280] - fatty acid esters of sucrose;
[0281] - Cs-Cso fatty acid esters of sorbitan;
[0282] - oxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan;
[0283] - (C8-C3o)alkyl(poly)glucosides, (C8-C3o)alkenyl(poly)glucosides, which are optionally oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 oxyalkylene units) and comprising from 1 to 15 glucose units, (C8-C3o)alkyl(poly)glucoside esters;
[0284] - hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, oxyethylenated plant oils;
[0285] - condensates of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide;
[0286] - N-(C8-C3o)alkylglucamine and N-(C8-C3o)acylmethylglucamine derivatives; - amine oxides;
[0287] - oxyalkylenated sugar ethers.
[0288] The nonionic surfactants may be chosen from alcohols, a-diols and (Ci-C2o)alkylphenols, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated and bearing at least one fatty chain including, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging notably from 1 to 200, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging notably from 1 to 30.
[0289] Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, ethoxylated fatty amides preferably containing from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides including on average from 1 to 5 and in particular from 1.5 to 4 glycerol groups, ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides, oxyethylenated plant oils, N-(Ce-C24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-C14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(Cio-Ci4 acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides.
[0290] Mention may be made in particular of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated C8-C40 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 mol, or even from 3 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide and including at least one C8-C20 and notably C10-Cis alkyl chain; notably lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of ethylene oxide (INCI name: Laureth-4).
[0291] The Cs-Cso and preferably C12-C22 fatty acid esters (notably monoesters, diesters and triesters) of sorbitan may be chosen from:
[0292] sorbitan caprylate; sorbitan cocoate; sorbitan isostearate; sorbitan laurate; sorbitan oleate; sorbitan palmitate; sorbitan stearate; sorbitan diisostearate; sorbitan dioleate; sorbitan distearate; sorbitan sesquicaprylate; sorbitan sesquiisostearate; sorbitan sesquioleate; sorbitan sesquistearate; sorbitan triisostearate; sorbitan trioleate; and sorbitan tri stearate.
[0293] The polyoxy ethylenated C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18) fatty acid esters (notably monoesters, diesters and triesters) of sorbitan notably containing from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide may be chosen from poly oxy ethylenated esters of C12-C18 fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, cetylic or stearic acid, of sorbitan notably containing from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, better still from 2 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide, such as:
[0294] - poly oxy ethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (4 OE) (Polysorbate-21), - polyoxy ethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (20 OE) (Polysorbate-20), - polyoxy ethylenated sorbitan monopalmitate (20 OE) (Polysorbate-40), - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (20 OE) (Polysorbate-60), - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (4 OE) (Polysorbate-61), - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (20 OE) (Polysorbate-80), - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (5 OE) (Polysorbate-81),
[0295] - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan tristearate (20 OE) (Polysorbate-65),
[0296] - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan trioleate (20 OE) (Polysorbate-85).
[0297] The hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, oxy ethylenated plant oils may be oils such as sweet almond oil, argan oil, avocado oil, groundnut oil, camellia oil, safflower oil, beauty-leaf oil, rapeseed oil, coconut oil (or coconut kernel oil), coriander oil, marrow oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, linseed oil, macadamia oil, corn germ oil, hazelnut oil, walnut oil, vernonia oil, apricot kernel oil, olive oil, evening-primrose oil, palm oil, passion flower oil, grapeseed oil, rose oil, castor oil, rye oil, sesame oil, rice bran oil, camelina oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, pracaxi oil, babassu oil, mongongo oil, marula oil, arara oil, shea butter oil, and Brazil nut oil, said oils being oxyethylenated. In particular, hydrogenated palm oil and hydrogenated castor oil may be mentioned among the hydrogenated plant oils, said oils being oxyethylenated.
[0298] The number of moles of ethylene oxide in the oxyethylenated plant oils may range from 2 to 200, preferably from 10 to 100, preferably from 20 to 80.Among the oxyalkylenated sugar ethers, mention may be made of oxypropylenated glucose derivatives comprising from 1 to 20 moles of propylene oxide such as PPG- 10 methyl glucose ether.
[0299] More preferentially, the nonionic surfactant(s) are chosen from Cs-Cso fatty acid esters of sorbitan, oxyalkylenated sugar ethers, and mixtures thereof, even more preferentially from C12-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan, notably sorbitan isostearate, oxyalkylenated sugar ethers, and mixtures thereof, better still from oxyalkylenated sugar ethers.
[0300] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of nonionic surfactant(s) is in the range from 0.001% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.01% to 6% by weight, better still 0.05% to 4% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 4% by weight, and even better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0301] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of nonionic surfactant(s) chosen from C8-C30 fatty acid ester(s) of sorbitan, oxyalkylenated sugar ethers, and mixtures thereof is in the range from 0.001% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.01% to 6% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 4% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 4% by weight, and even better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0302] Preferably, the total content of oxyalkylenated sugar ether(s) is in the range from 0.001% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.01% to 6% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 4% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, and even better still from 0.5% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0303] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may also comprise water, in particular a total water content of less than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 15% by weight, more preferentially less than or equal to 12% by weight, even more preferentially less than or equal to 10% by weight, better still less than or equal to 9% by weight, and even better still from 5% to 9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises water in a total content in the range from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 12% by weight, better still from 2% to 10% by weight, and even better still from 5% to 9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
[0304] According to another embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention is anhydrous.
[0305] The term “anhydrous composition” refers to a composition comprising a water content of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. Preferably, this water content is less than 1% by weight, better still less than 0.5% or even less than 0.3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. More particularly, the composition does not comprise any water (0%).
[0306] In particular, the anhydrous composition does not comprise any water added during its preparation, the residual water that may be present possibly originating from the starting materials used during the preparation.
[0307] Beneficial agents
[0308] Preferably, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one beneficial agent chosen from antidandruff agents, hair loss counteractants, amino acids, oligopeptides, proteins, and mixtures thereof.
[0309] For the purposes of the invention, the term “ amino acid" means organic compounds containing two functional groups: both a carboxyl group -COOH or carboxylate and an amine group -NEh, the amine group optionally being methylated, i.e. in the form -NR2 or N R3, where at least one R = CH3.
[0310] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “oligopeptide” means a peptide comprising from 2 to 20 amino acids which are chemically linked by peptide bonds.
[0311] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “protein” means a peptide comprising at least 21 amino acids which are chemically linked by peptide bonds.
[0312] Preferably, the total content of beneficial agent(s) chosen from anti-dandruff agents, hair loss counteractants, amino acids, oligopeptides, proteins, and mixtures thereof, is in the range from 0% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Additives
[0313] The composition according to the invention may optionally also comprise at least one or more common cosmetic additives notably chosen from sunscreens; reducing agents; antioxidants; oxidizing agents; dyes; pearlescent agents and opacifiers; plasticizers or coalescers; pigments; fillers; fragrances; basifying or acidifying agents.
[0314] A person skilled in the art will take care to select the ingredients included in the composition, and also the amounts thereof, so that they do not harm the properties of the compositions of the present invention.
[0315] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is silicone-free.
[0316] The term “silicone-free” means that the composition according to the invention does not comprise any silicone, or that the silicone(s) present in the composition according to the invention are included in a total content of less than or equal to 0.1% by weight, preferably less than 0.05%, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention, and better still is free of silicone (0%).
[0317] The term “silicone” means any organosilicon polymer or oligomer of linear or cyclic and branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes and consisting essentially of a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are connected to each other via oxygen atoms (siloxane bond -Si-O-Si-), optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being connected directly to said silicon atoms via a carbon atom; and more particularly dialkylsiloxane polymers, amino silicones and dimethiconols.
[0318] Preferably, the dynamic viscosity of the composition according to the invention as defined above, at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure, is in the range from 200 mPa.s (i.e. 200 cP) to 2500 mPa.s (i.e. 2500 cP); more preferentially from 400 mPa.s (i.e. 400 cP) to 1750 mPa.s (i.e. 1750 cP); and even more preferentially from 600 mPa.s (i.e. 600 cP) to 1000 mPa.s (i.e. 1000 cP).
[0319] The dynamic viscosity of the compositions according to the invention as defined above may be measured using a rheometer such as a Lamy RM 100 rheometerand at a rotation speed of 200 rpm, the measurement being taken after 30 seconds of rotation, at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure.
[0320] The composition according to the invention is advantageously in the form of a clear to translucent fluid, more preferentially a clear fluid.
[0321] The clarity of the composition according to the invention may be characterized by measuring its turbidity, by turbidimetry (in NTU units).
[0322] The turbidity of the compositions according to the invention, as defined above, can be measured using a turbidimeter such as a Hach Turbimeter 2100P in glass measuring cuvettes, at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure.
[0323] Preferably, the turbidity of the composition according to the invention as defined above, at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure, is in the range from 0.1 NTU to 200 NTU; more preferentially from 5 to 100 NTU; and even more preferentially from 10 to 50 NTU.
[0324] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises:
[0325] a) at least one fatty amine cationic surfactant, preferably chosen from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C7-C30 hydrocarbon chain,
[0326] b) at least one fatty alcohol comprising from 7 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols comprising from 7 to 40 carbon atoms, more preferentially chosen from myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, c) at least one polyol comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from linear and saturated polyols comprising 2 -OH groups and 2 to 6 carbon atoms, preferentially propylene glycol,
[0327] d) at least one monoalcohol comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from saturated monoalcohols comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, preferentially ethanol,
[0328] e) optionally at least one polysaccharide,
[0329] f) optionally at least one carboxylic acid,
[0330] g) optionally at least one additional fatty substance different from the fatty alcohols b), h) optionally at least one additional cationic surfactant, different from the fatty amine cationic surfactants a),
[0331] i) optionally at least one nonionic surfactant, andj) optionally at least one beneficial agent chosen from antidandruff agents, hair loss counteractants, amino acids, oligopeptides, proteins, and mixtures thereof, and wherein:
[0332] - the weight ratio of the total content of monoalcohol(s) d) to the total content of polyol(s) c) is greater than or equal to 2, and
[0333] - the total content of C2-C6 polyol(s) c) and of Ci-Ce monoalcohol(s) d) ranges from 32% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0334] According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises:
[0335] a) at least one fatty amine cationic surfactant, preferably chosen from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C7-C30 hydrocarbon chain
[0336] b) at least one fatty alcohol comprising from 7 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols comprising from 7 to 40 carbon atoms, more preferentially chosen from myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, c) at least one polyol comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from linear and saturated polyols comprising 2 -OH groups and 2 to 6 carbon atoms, preferentially propylene glycol,
[0337] d) at least one monoalcohol comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from saturated monoalcohols comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, preferentially ethanol,
[0338] e) at least one polysaccharide, preferably chosen from nonionic polysaccharides, more preferentially from non-associative nonionic polysaccharides, associative nonionic polysaccharides, and mixtures thereof,
[0339] f) at least one carboxylic acid comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from lactic acid, glycolic acid, levulinic acid, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially lactic acid,
[0340] g) at least one additional fatty substance different from the fatty alcohols b), preferably chosen from triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, Ci4-Ceo fatty esters different from triglyceride oils, and mixtures thereof,
[0341] h) at least one additional cationic surfactant, different from the fatty amine cationic surfactants a), preferably chosen from the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (la), the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (IVa), as described previously, and mixtures thereof,i) at least one nonionic surfactant, preferably chosen from -C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan, oxyalkylenated sugar ethers, and mixtures thereof, and
[0342] j) optionally, at least one beneficial agent, preferably chosen from antidandruff agents, hair loss counteractants, amino acids, oligopeptides, proteins, and mixtures thereof, and wherein:
[0343] - the weight ratio of the total content of monoalcohol(s) d) to the total content of polyol(s) c) is greater than or equal to 2, and
[0344] - the total content of C2-C6 polyol(s) c) and of Ci-Ce monoalcohol(s) d) ranges from 32% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0345] Process
[0346] A subject of the present invention relates to a process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least one step of applying a composition according to the invention as defined previously to the keratin fibres.
[0347] Another subject of the present invention relates to a process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least the following steps:
[0348] (i) a step of applying to keratin fibres a composition (C) comprising at least one dye, and
[0349] (ii) a step of applying to the keratin fibres a composition according to the invention as defined previously.
[0350] Preferably, the dye(s) in composition (C) are chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from oxidation dyes.
[0351] According to the process of the invention, said step (i) may be performed before or after said step (ii). Preferably, step (i) is performed before step (ii).
[0352] According to a first embodiment according to the invention, the process comprises at least the following steps:
[0353] (i) a step of applying to keratin fibres a composition (C) comprising at least one oxidation dye, and
[0354] (ii) a step of applying to the keratin fibres a composition according to the invention as defined previously.According to a second embodiment according to the invention, the process comprises at least the following steps:
[0355] (i) a step of applying to keratin fibres a composition (C) comprising at least one direct dye, and
[0356] (ii) a step of applying to the keratin fibres a composition according to the invention as defined previously.
[0357] According to a third embodiment according to the invention, the process comprises at least the following steps:
[0358] (i) a step of applying to keratin fibres a composition (C) comprising at least one oxidation dye and at least one direct dye, and
[0359] (ii) a step of applying to the keratin fibres a composition according to the invention as defined previously.
[0360] The first and third embodiments above are particularly preferred.
[0361] The dye composition (C) is different from the composition according to the invention as described previously. More particularly, the dye composition (C) does not fall within the definition of the composition according to the invention as described previously. The same is true for compositions (Cl) and (C2) as described below.
[0362] Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not comprise any oxidation dyes.
[0363] The oxidation dyes (also referred to as “oxidation dye precursors”) may be chosen from one or more oxidation bases, optionally in combination with one or more couplers.
[0364] Preferably, the oxidation dye(s) comprise one or more oxidation bases. Preferably, composition (C) employed in the process according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation bases.
[0365] The oxidation bases may be present in the form of salts, solvates and / or solvates of salts.
[0366] By way of example, the oxidation bases are chosen from paraphenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, orthoaminophenols, heterocyclic bases and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and / or solvates of the salts.Preferably, composition (C) used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation couplers.
[0367] Among the couplers that are useful according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, metadiphenols, naphthalene-based coupling agents and heterocyclic coupling agents, and also the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts thereof.
[0368] Composition (C) used in the process according to the invention may advantageously comprise at least one direct dye.
[0369] The direct dyes may be synthetic or natural.
[0370] The term “direct dye” means coloured species. These are dyes which spread superficially on the fibre.
[0371] These synthetic direct dyes are, for example, chosen from the dyes conventionally used for direct dyeing, and among which mention may be made of all the aromatic and / or non-aromatic dyes that are commonly used, such as nitrobenzene, azo, hydrazono, nitro(hetero)aryl, tri(hetero)arylmethane, (poly)methine, carbonyl, azine, porphyrin, metalloporphyrin, quinone and in particular anthraquinone, indoamine and phthalocyanine direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.
[0372] The natural direct dyes are chosen, for example, from lawsone, juglone, indigo, leuco indigo, indirubin, isatin, hennotannic acid, alizarin, carthamine, morin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, laccaic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin, orceins, carotenoids, betanin, chlorophylls, chlorophyllines, monascus, polyphenols or ortho-diphenols.
[0373] Among the ortho-diphenols that are useful according to the invention, mention may be made of: catechin, quercetin, brazilin, hematein, hematoxylin, chlorogenic acid, caffeic acid, gallic acid, L-DOPA, cyanidin, (-)-epicatechin, (-)-epigallocatechin, (-)-epigallocatechin 3-gallate (EGCG), isoquercetin, pomiferin, esculetin, 6,7-dihydroxy-3-(3-hydroxy-2,4-dimethoxyphenyl)coumarin, santalin A and B, mangiferin, butein, maritimetin, sulfuretin, robtein, betanidin, pericampylinone A, theaflavin, proanthocyanidin A2, proanthocyanidin B2, proanthocyanidin Cl, procyanidins DP 4-8, tannic acid, purpurogallin, 5,6-dihydroxy-2-methyl-l,4-naphthoquinone, alizarin, wedelolactone and natural extracts containing same.
[0374] Preferably, the total content of dye(s) in composition (C) is in the range from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.002% to 15% by weight, evenmore preferentially from 0.005% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.005% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.01% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (C).
[0375] When the treatment process according to the invention is a process for the oxidation dyeing of keratin fibres, composition (C) used in step (i) of the dyeing process comprises at least one oxidation dye and optionally also at least one chemical oxidizing agent.
[0376] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “chemical oxidizing agent” means an oxidizing agent other than atmospheric oxygen.
[0377] The chemical oxidizing agent(s) (or bleaching agents) that may be used may be chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea hydrogen peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts such as perborates and persulfates, in particular sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate and ammonium persulfate, peracids and oxidase enzymes (with their optional cofactors), among which mention may be made of peroxidases, 2-electron oxidoreductases, such as uricases, and 4-electron oxygenases, such as laccases, and mixtures thereof.
[0378] More preferentially, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof, better still hydrogen peroxide.
[0379] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the process is a process for the oxidation dyeing of keratin fibres, comprising at least the steps (1) of applying to said keratin fibres a composition (Cl) comprising at least one oxidation dye and not comprising any chemical oxidizing agents, as described above, (2) of applying a separate oxidizing composition (O) comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent as described above, and (3) of applying to said keratin fibres a composition according to the invention as described previously (different from compositions (Cl) and (O)).
[0380] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) in composition (O) is within the range from 0.1% to 50%, more preferentially from 0.5% to 20% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition (O).
[0381] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts and mixtures thereof in the oxidizing composition (O) is in the range from 0.1% to 50%, more preferentially from 0.5% to 20% by weight, evenmore preferentially from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition (O).
[0382] According to this preferred embodiment of the invention, composition (Cl) may be applied to the keratin fibres simultaneously with or sequentially to the oxidizing composition (O).
[0383] More preferentially, according to this embodiment, the oxidation dyeing process comprises at least:
[0384] (F) a step of preparing a composition (M) resulting from the extemporaneous mixing of:
[0385] a composition (Cl) comprising at least one oxidation dye,
[0386] said composition (Cl) not comprising any chemical oxidizing agents; with
[0387] a separate oxidizing composition (O) comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents such as those described previously; and then
[0388] (2') a step of applying said composition (M) to the keratin fibres; and
[0389] (3') a step of applying a composition according to the invention as defined previously.
[0390] According to this embodiment, step (F) of preparing a composition (M) is advantageously performed at the time of use, just before the application of composition (M) to the keratin fibres.
[0391] According to this embodiment, step (3’) may be performed before step (F) or after step (2’). Preferably, step (2') is performed before step (3'); more preferentially, step (F) is performed, followed by step (2') and then step (3').
[0392] Preferably, according to this embodiment, the mixing of said composition (Cl) with the oxidizing composition (O) is performed in a weight ratio (C 1 ) / (O) in the range from 1 / 3 to 1 / 1; more preferentially from 1 / 2 to 1 / 1.
[0393] The pH of composition (M) generally ranges from 8 to 12, preferably from 8.5 to 11, and better still from 9 to 10.5.
[0394] Said oxidizing composition (O) optionally used in the dyeing process advantageously comprises water.
[0395] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) in composition (M) used in the dyeing process is in the range from 0.1% to 20%, more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (M).
[0396] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof in composition (M) used in the dyeing process is within the range from 0.1% to 20%, more preferentially from 0.5%to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (M).
[0397] When the dyeing process is a process for the direct dyeing of keratin fibres, composition (C) applied to the keratin fibres during step (i) of the process according to the invention comprises at least one direct dye, and does not comprise any oxidation dyes or chemical oxidizing agents as described above.
[0398] According to another embodiment of the invention, the dyeing process is a process for the direct dyeing of keratin fibres, comprising at least the steps of (1) applying to said keratin fibres a composition (C2) comprising at least one direct dye, and (2) applying to said keratin fibres a composition according to the invention as described above.
[0399] Preferably, according to this other embodiment, the process for the direct dyeing of keratin fibres comprises at least the following steps:
[0400] (1) a step of applying to said keratin fibres a composition (C2) comprising at least one direct dye;
[0401] said composition (C2) not comprising any oxidation dyes or chemical oxidizing agents, and
[0402] (2) a step of applying to said keratin fibres a composition according to the invention as described previously.
[0403] More preferentially, composition (C) comprises at least one oxidation dye. More preferentially, the treatment process is a dyeing process, better still a process for the oxidation dyeing of keratin fibres, which also gives the hair thus dyed good conditioning / care properties, notably sheen, lightness, a smooth feel, suppleness, ease of disentangling and manageability.
[0404] The keratin fibre treatment process may optionally comprise additional steps, for example a step comprising a leave-on time after application, and / or rinsing and / or drying.
[0405] The composition(s) of the treatment process may be applied to wet or dry hair, and also to all types of light or dark, natural or dyed, permanent waved, bleached or relaxed fibres.The composition(s) of the treatment process may be applied to the keratin fibres via any conventional means, in particular using a comb, a brush, by hand or with the fingers.
[0406] The treatment process is generally performed at room temperature (25 °C). The treatment process may notably comprise a step of washing the hair before applying the composition(s) described previously. It may also comprise a washing step after the application of the composition(s) described previously.
[0407] According to one embodiment of the invention, the process consists in applying to the keratin fibres an effective amount of the composition(s) described previously, optionally massaging the fibres, optionally leaving the composition to stand on the fibres, and rinsing.
[0408] The leave-on time of the composition according to the invention and / or of composition (M) on the keratin fibres may be between a few seconds and 60 minutes and preferably between 30 seconds and 30 minutes.
[0409] Preferably, the treatment process comprises a step of rinsing the keratin fibres with water after the step(s) of applying the composition according to the invention and / or composition (M).
[0410] An optional step of drying the keratin fibres may be performed.
[0411] Another subject of the present invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention as defined previously, for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.
[0412] Preferably, the composition according to the invention as defined previously is used for conditioning / caring for keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.
[0413] The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.
[0414] Examples
[0415] Example 1
[0416] Composition Al according to the invention and the comparative composition Bl, as described in the table below, were prepared. The amounts are expressed as weight percentages of active material (AM).[Table 1]
[0417]
[0418] Figure 1 in the appendix corresponds to a photograph of composition Al according to the invention 5 minutes after its preparation.
[0419] It is observed that composition Al according to the invention is a transparent gel, which is stable and perfectly homogeneous from the end of its manufacture. No syneresis was observed at room temperature (25°C) several days after the preparation of composition Al according to the invention.
[0420] Figure 2 in the appendix corresponds to a photograph of the comparative composition Bl 5 minutes after its preparation.
[0421] It is observed that the comparative composition Bl is neither homogeneous nor stable and forms crystals and gel agglomerates from the end of manufacture. Thecomparative composition Bl is opaque and remains non-homogeneous at room temperature (25 °C) several days after the preparation.
[0422] Example 2
[0423] Compositions C to E according to the invention, as described in the table below, were also prepared. The amounts are expressed as weight percentages of active material (AM).
[0424] [Table 2]
[0425]
[0426] It is observed that compositions C to E according to the invention are transparent gels, which are stable and perfectly homogeneous from the end of their manufacture.
[0427] No syneresis was observed several days after the preparation of compositions C to E according to the invention.
[0428] In addition, compositions C to E are easy to apply to keratin fibres and provide a uniform feel from the root to the end of said fibres. The disentangling of the keratin fibres is improved, and the hair is lighter, more supple and shinier.
[0429] Example 3 :
[0430] Composition A2 according to the invention and comparative composition B2, as described in the table below, were prepared. The amounts are expressed as weight percentages of active material (AM).
[0431] [Table 3]
[0432]
[0433] Compositions A2 and B2 are applied to sensitized SA20 hair locks.
[0434] The locks are first cleaned by applying a standard treatment shampoo (L'Oreal - DOP) at a rate of 0.3g of shampoo per gram of lock. The locks are kneaded until the shampoo lathers. The locks are then rinsed with water and wrung out.
[0435] Each composition A2 and B2 is applied to one of the washed and still wet locks at a rate of 0.3g of composition per gram of lock and the locks are kneaded. Without delay, the locks are then rinsed with water and wrung out twice.
[0436] After the above treatment, the hair locks were blindly evaluated by a panel of 5 experts selected and trained for the sensory evaluation of hair locks.
[0437] The evaluation of the smoothness to the touch on wet hair was carried out for each of the locks treated with one of the compositions A2 and B2.
[0438] The smoothness of wet hair was evaluated blind, as follows: each expert took a lock of hair at the root and ran it between their fingers along the entire length of the lock to the ends. The more uniform and homogeneous the hair is from root to tip, the less rough it feels, the less it snags the fingers, and therefore the smoother it feels to the touch. The hair appears more treated and repaired.
[0439] Each expert gives a score ranging from 0 to 5, in increments of 0.5.
[0440] The scores correspond to the criteria below:
[0441] 0 = very poor smoothness to the touch, the roughness of the hair is very noticeable (the hair appears untreated)
[0442] 1 = poor smoothness to the touch, the roughness of the hair is very noticeable 2 = slight smoothness to the touch, the roughness of the hair is noticeable
[0443] 2.5 = average smoothness to the touch, the roughness of the hair is moderately noticeable
[0444] 3 = quite good smoothness to the touch, the roughness of the hair is slightly noticeable 4 = good smoothness to the touch, the roughness of the hair is barely noticeable 5 = very good smoothness to the touch (no roughness of the hair is noticeable to the touch: the composition has treated the hair perfectly)
[0445] The results are as follows:[Table 4]
[0446]
[0447] It is observed that the hair treated with the composition A2 according to the invention is smoother to the touch than the hair treated with the comparative composition B2.
Claims
CLAIMS1. Composition comprising:a) at least one fatty amine cationic surfactant,b) at least one fatty alcohol comprising from 7 to 40 carbon atoms,c) at least one C2-C6 polyol, andd) at least one monoalcohol comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;and wherein:- the weight ratio of the total content of monoalcohol(s) d) to the total content of polyol(s) c) is greater than or equal to 2, and- the total content of C2-C6 polyol(s) c) and of Ci-Ce monoalcohol(s) d) ranges from 32% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the fatty amine cationic surfactant(s) a) are chosen from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C7-C30 hydrocarbon chain; more preferentially from the fatty amidoamines of formula RCONHR”N(R’)2 in which:- R represents a substituted or unsubstituted, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing from 6 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C6-C29 and preferably C7-C23 alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C6-C29 and preferably C7-C23 alkenyl radical;- R” represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical containing fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms and better still 3 carbon atoms; and- R’, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical.
3. Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the fatty amine cationic surfactant(s) a) are chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof;better still from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof;even better still from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof;and even better still stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of fatty amine cationic surfactant(s) a) is in the range from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.25% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.5% to 3% by weight, and better still from 1% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty alcohol(s) b) are chosen from solid fatty alcohols comprising from 7 to 40 carbon atoms; more preferentially chosen from lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, ceryl alcohol, montanyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof; even more preferentially from myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of fatty alcohol(s) b) is in the range from 0.5% to 25% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 22% by weight, even more preferentially from 3% to 20% by weight, better still from 5% to 18% by weight, even better still from 8% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the C2-C6 polyol(s) c) are chosen from linear, saturated C2-C6 polyolscomprising 2 hydroxyl groups; better still from propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, 2,3-butanediol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, and mixtures thereof; and even better still propylene glycol.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of C2-C6 polyol(s) c) is in the range from 1% to 30% by weight, more preferentially from 2% to 25% by weight, even more preferentially from 8% to 22% by weight, better still from 10% to 20% by weight, even better still from 14% to 18% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the monoalcohol(s) d) are chosen from C2-C4 monoalcohols; preferably from saturated C2-C4 monoalcohols; more preferentially from ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol, and mixtures thereof; even more preferentially ethanol.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of Ci-Ce monoalcohol(s) d) is greater than or equal to 30% by weight, more preferentially in the range from 30% to 65% by weight, even more preferentially from 32% to 60% by weight, better still from 35% to 55% by weight, and even better still from 40% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of C2-C6 polyol(s) c) and of Ci-Ce monoalcohol(s) d) ranges from 35% to 80% by weight, more preferentially from 40% to 80% by weight, better still from 45% to 80% by weight, even better still from 50% to 75% by weight and even better still from 55% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of the total content of Ci-Ce monoalcohol(s) d) to the total content of C2-C6 polyol(s) c) is greater than or equal to 2.5, more preferentially greater than or equal to 3, even more preferentially in the range from 3 to 6, even more preferentially from 3 to 5, and better still from 3 to 4.
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one of the following compounds:- at least one polysaccharide, preferably chosen from nonionic polysaccharides, - at least one carboxylic acid comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,- at least one additional fatty substance different from the fatty alcohols b), preferably chosen from triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, Cu-Ceo fatty esters different from triglyceride oils, and mixtures thereof,- at least one additional cationic surfactant, different from the fatty amine cationic surfactants a),- at least one nonionic surfactant, preferably chosen from Cs-Cso fatty acid esters of sorbitan, oxyalkylenated sugar ethers, and mixtures thereof.
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises water, and in that the total water content is less than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 15% by weight, more preferentially less than or equal to 12% by weight, even more preferentially less than or equal to 10% by weight, better still less than or equal to 9% by weight, and even better still from 5% to 9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
15. Process for treating keratin fibres, comprising at least one step of applying to the keratin fibres a composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 14.
16. Process for treating keratin fibres, comprising at least the following steps: (i) a step of applying to the keratin fibres a composition (C) comprising at least one dye; preferably chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from oxidation dyes, and(ii) a step of applying to the keratin fibres a composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 14;preferably, step (i) is performed before step (ii).
17. Process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it comprises at least:(F) a step of preparing a composition (M) resulting from the extemporaneous mixing of:a composition (Cl) comprising at least one oxidation dye,said composition (Cl) not comprising any chemical oxidizing agents; with a separate oxidizing composition (O) comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea hydrogen peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts such as perborates and persulfates, peracids, oxidase enzymes, and mixtures thereof; and then(2’) a step of applying said composition (M) to the keratin fibres; and(3’) a step of applying a composition as defined in any of Claims 1 to 14; preferably, step (F) being performed, followed by step (2’) and then step (3’).
18. Use of the composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 14, for treating keratin fibres, preferably for conditioning / caring for keratin fibres.