Hair conditioning composition for improved deposition
By combining branched cationic surfactants with straight-chain fatty substances and structuring agents, and optimizing the molar ratio, the problem of insufficient siloxane deposition in decolorized hair was solved, achieving more efficient delivery of beneficial agents and conditioning effects.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN202180086420.4
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Patents(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2020-12-21
- Filing Date
- 2021-12-01
- Publication Date
- 2026-05-15
- Estimated Expiration
- 2041-12-01
AI Technical Summary
Bleached hair does not perform well in terms of siloxane delivery and deposition, requiring users to apply more products to achieve the desired conditioning level. Existing branched materials have failed to effectively improve the deposition of beneficial agents on bleached hair.
A composition comprising branched cationic surfactants, linear aliphatic substances and structuring agents, with an optimized molar ratio ranging from 1:20 to 1:1, particularly from 1:5 to 1:2, is used to treat decolorized hair and increase the deposition of particulate beneficial agents such as siloxanes.
It significantly enhances siloxane deposition on bleached hair, improves conditioning effects, reduces usage, and increases the delivery efficiency of beneficial agents.
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Figure CN116615174B_ABST
Abstract
Description
Invention Field
[0001] The present invention relates to conditioning compositions comprising branched cationic surfactants in combination with fatty alcohols and structuring agents for treating bleached hair, comprising beneficial agents to be deposited onto the hair during use, and specifically to conditioning compositions capable of depositing increased amounts of beneficial agents onto bleached hair. Background Technology
[0002] In personal care compositions, such as hair treatment compositions, the deposition and delivery of beneficial agents are often key drivers of product performance. For example, many hair conditioning products currently on the market deliver benefits by depositing beneficial agents (such as fragrances, siloxanes, and damage-repairing actives) onto the hair during washing and conditioning.
[0003] However, consumers have reported disappointment with the level of benefits obtained from using some compositions. This is often due to insufficient delivery of the beneficial agent to the surface. Therefore, there is a desire to develop compositions that provide improved delivery of beneficial substances to surfaces such as hair.
[0004] It is known that hair treated with bleaching products retains silicones particularly poorly during and after application, resulting in low levels of deposition and insufficient benefits for the user. Consequently, users must apply more product and may never achieve the desired conditioning level. In fact, we have found that the measured levels of silicones delivered to bleached hair can be up to 20% lower than levels achieved with the same product used on native hair.
[0005] Various types of alkyl cationic compounds are known to have multiple benefits in hair treatment compositions.
[0006] WO 17 / 172117 discloses a composition for treating the keratin matrix, comprising a cationic reagent containing a defined first quaternary ammonium compound and an imidazoline compound, modified starch, two silane compounds, a cationic vinylpyrrolidone polymer, and water. Hair treated with this composition is claimed to have improved volume, hair structure, fullness, ease of rinsing, quick drying, longer-lasting cleanliness, and thorough conditioning. For example, US 2005 / 175569 discloses a cosmetic composition for conditioning and styling hair, comprising a cationic surfactant, which may be a quaternary ammonium salt.
[0007] JP 2005-060271 discloses an aqueous hair cosmetic composition comprising (A) a dimethylpolysiloxane represented by general formula (1), (B) a dimethylpolysiloxane represented by general formula (2), (C) a cyclic dimethylpolysiloxane represented by general formula (3), wherein the ratio of [(B)+(C)] / (A) is greater than or equal to 1; and (D) an additional quaternary ammonium component. The composition is said to provide a range of conditioning benefits to hair during the wetting, rinsing, and drying stages.
[0008] Our own publication applications WO 02 / 102334 and WO 01 / 43718 provide an aqueous hair treatment composition having cleaning and conditioning properties, comprising a quaternary ammonium cationic surfactant having a defined hydrocarbon chain.
[0009] WO 2020 / 126377A1 (UNILEVER) discloses compositions for improving the deposition of beneficial agents on hair. Examples disclose a composition comprising (i) behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, (ii) cetearyl alcohol, (iii) an emulsified siloxane, and (iv) N,N,N-trimethyl-2-((2-octyldodecyl)oxy)-2-oxoethane-1-ammonium methanesulfonate.
[0010] WO 2020 / 061658 A1 (L'OREAL) discloses a composition for providing styling benefits to hair, such as anti-frizz properties, volume control, and conditioning. The hair treatment composition comprises: (a) a cationic surfactant as an ester quaternary ammonium salt; (b) a cationic surfactant that is not an ester quaternary ammonium salt; (c) a silicone oil; (d) a fatty alcohol; (e) water; and (f) optionally, one or more of the following: (i) a nonionic polymer; (ii) a cationic polymer; and (iii) an aminosiloxane.
[0011] WO 99 / 62492A1 (PROCTER & GAMBLE) discloses a conditioning composition comprising (1) at least 3% of a compound having a melting point of at least 25°C; (2) an emulsifier selected from amines, betaine, nonionic compounds and mixtures thereof; (3) a quaternary compound; and (4) an aqueous carrier; wherein the composition exhibits a DSC curve showing substantially no peaks greater than about 3 mJ / mg at temperatures ranging from about 40°C to 65°C.
[0012] GB 2 316 615 A (R&C PRODUCTS PTY LTD) discloses a composition for improving conditioning benefits, comprising: i) 0.1 to 10% of C18-C22 alkyl quaternary ammonium, such as behenyltrimethylammonium chloride; ii) 0.1 to 10% of C12-C22 dialkyl quaternary ammonium, such as dihexadecyldimethylammonium chloride; iii) 0.01 to 5% of non-volatile polyalkylsiloxane, such as dimethylsiloxane; iv) 0.01 to 5% of non-volatile polyalkyl hydroxyl-terminated siloxane, such as polydimethylsiloxane alcohol; v) 0.01 to 5% of emulsified cationic amino-functionalized siloxane, such as ammonia-terminated polydimethylsiloxane; vi) 0.1 to 10% of long-chain fatty alcohol, such as cetyl alcohol; vii) the balance being water.
[0013] US 5,374,421 A (TASHIRO KAZUHIRO) discloses a composition for hair treatment comprising (a) 0.1-10% by weight of a modified siloxane polymer having at least one alkoxy group and a melting point not less than 30°C, (b) 0.1-20% by weight of a cationic surfactant, (c) 0.1-30% by weight of an oily or fatty substance, (d) 0.1-90% by weight of an organic liquid compatible with water and having at least one hydroxyl group, and (e) water.
[0014] WO 2020 / 126659 A1 (UNILEVER PLC) discloses a composition for improving the deposition of beneficial agents on hair, comprising: (i) 0.01 to 10 wt% of a linear cationic conditioning surfactant; (ii) 0.1 to 10 wt% of a linear fatty substance; (iii) a particulate beneficial agent; and (iv) 0.01 to 5 wt% of a branched cationic co-surfactant as defined in structure (1) based on 100% of active material; wherein the molar ratio of the branched cationic co-surfactant (iv) to the linear cationic surfactant (i) is in the range of 1:20 to 1:1; and the viscosity of the composition is 5,000 to 750,000 cp.
[0015] WO 2020 / 127542 A1 (UNILEVER PLC) discloses a composition comprising: a conditioning matrix comprising: i) a cationic conditioning surfactant having 16 to 32 carbon atoms; ii) a fatty alcohol having 8 to 22 carbon atoms; and b) 0.1 to 10 wt% of a conditioning siloxane; and (c) 0.1 to 5 wt% of a dieterquat selected from dieterquats comprising branched saturated chains, dieterquats comprising unbranched unsaturated chains, and mixtures thereof; wherein the ratio of b) to c) is 1:1 to 1:0.1 to provide improved deposition of the siloxane on the hair surface.
[0016] WO 2020 / 126660A1 (UNILEVER PLC) discloses a composition comprising: (i) 0.01 to 10 wt% of a linear cationic conditioning surfactant; (ii) 0.1 to 10 wt% of a linear fatty substance; (iii) a particulate beneficial agent selected from conditioning active substances, scalp active substances, encapsulating fragrances, emulsified fragrances, and mixtures thereof; and (iv) 0.01 to 5 wt% of a branched cationic co-surfactant selected from structure 1, structure 2, structure 3, and mixtures thereof, based on 100% of the active substance; wherein the molar ratio of the branched cationic co-surfactant (iv) to the linear cationic surfactant (i) is in the range of 1:20 to 1:1 to provide improved deposition of the particulate beneficial agent on the hair.
[0017] Although branched materials are known in household and personal care products, they have not been effectively applied to provide the beneficial effects of depositing on depigmented hair.
[0018] Despite existing technologies, there is still a need to deliver improved benefits to depigmented hair.
[0019] We have now surprisingly discovered that compositions containing a combination of defined branched cationic surfactants with structuring agents and fatty substances provide an unexpected and significant enhancement in the deposition of conditioning agents (such as siloxanes) on decolorized hair.
[0020] Unless otherwise stated, all percentages mentioned herein are based on gross weight by weight. Summary of the Invention
[0021] Therefore, a composition is provided comprising:
[0022] (i) 0.01 to 10% by weight of branched cationic conditioning surfactants;
[0023] Selected from Structure 1:
[0024]
[0025] in:
[0026] R1 and R2 contain straight-chain hydrocarbon groups, which may be saturated or unsaturated, with carbon-carbon chain lengths ranging from C4 to C6. 20 ;
[0027] R3 contains a proton or a carbon-carbon chain with a length of C1 to C5, preferably a saturated or unsaturated straight-chain or branched hydrocarbon chain of C1 to C3;
[0028] n has a range of 0-10, preferably selected from 0 and 1;
[0029] · It is an organic or inorganic anion;
[0030] (ii) 0.1 to 10% by weight of a linear carbon-carbon chain of a straight-chain fatty substance selected from fatty alcohols, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, fatty acids and mixtures thereof;
[0031] (iii) 0.1 to 5% by weight of a structuring agent; and
[0032] (iv) Particle-based beneficial agents selected from conditioning active substances;
[0033] The molar ratio of branched cationic conditioning surfactant (i) to linear aliphatic substance (ii) is in the range of 1:20 to 1:1, preferably 1:10 to 1:1, and most preferably 1:5 to 1:2.
[0034] In a second aspect, the present invention provides a method for depositing a particulate beneficial agent selected from conditioning active substances, preferably siloxane emulsions, onto decolorized hair, compared to similar compositions not containing branched cationic conditioning surfactants according to structure 1, preferably compared to compositions not containing branched cationic conditioning surfactants (i) and linear aliphatic substances (ii) in a molar ratio in the range of 1:20 to 1:1, preferably 1:10 to 1:1, most preferably 1:5 to 1:2, in a molar ratio of 1:20 to 1:1, preferably 1:10 to 1:1, most preferably 1:10 to 1:2, in a molar ratio of 1:20 to 1:1, on decolorized hair, comprising the step of applying the composition of the first aspect to the decolorized hair.
[0035] The method of the present invention preferably includes an additional step of rinsing the composition from the decolorized hair.
[0036] Preferably, the method is a method of increasing the deposition of siloxanes onto decolorized hair compared to similar compositions that do not contain branched cationic conditioning surfactants according to structure 1, preferably compared to compositions that do not contain branched cationic conditioning surfactants (i) and linear aliphatic substances (ii) in a molar ratio in the range of 1:20 to 1:1, preferably 1:10 to 1:1, most preferably 1:5 to 1:2, the method comprising the steps of: applying the composition as defined in the first aspect of the invention to the hair and rinsing the hair with water.
[0037] The third aspect provides the use of the composition of the first aspect for delivering an increased amount of a conditioning active substance, preferably a siloxane-based particulate beneficial agent, to decolorized hair compared to similar compositions not containing a branched cationic conditioning surfactant according to structure 1, preferably when compared to compositions not containing a branched cationic conditioning surfactant (i) and a straight-chain aliphatic substance (ii) in a molar ratio in the range of 1:20 to 1:1, preferably 1:10 to 1:1, most preferably 1:5 to 1:2.
[0038] The compositions according to the invention are preferably formulated as conditioners for treating hair (usually after shampooing) and subsequently rinsing. Detailed Implementation
[0039] Preferably, the treatment composition is selected from rinsing hair conditioners, hair masks, leave-in conditioner compositions, and pretreatment compositions; more preferably, it is selected from rinsing hair conditioners, hair masks, leave-in conditioner compositions, and pretreatment compositions, such as oil treatments; and most preferably, it is selected from rinsing hair conditioners, hair masks, and leave-in conditioner compositions. The treatment composition is preferably selected from rinsing hair conditioners and leave-in conditioners.
[0040] The wash-off conditioner used in this invention is a conditioner that is typically left on wet hair for 1 to 2 minutes before rinsing.
[0041] The hair mask used in this invention is typically left on the hair for 3 to 10 minutes, preferably 3 to 5 minutes, and more preferably 4 to 5 minutes, before being washed off.
[0042] The leave-in conditioner used in this invention is typically applied to the hair and left on for more than 10 minutes, and preferably applied to the hair after washing and not rinsed off until the next wash.
[0043] Branched cationic conditioning surfactants
[0044] The branched cationic conditioning surfactant is present in an amount of 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 5% by weight, and most preferably 0.1 to 2% by weight (based on 100% active material and the weight of the total composition).
[0045] The molar ratio of branched cationic conditioning surfactant (i) to linear aliphatic substance (ii) is in the range of 1:20 to 1:1, preferably 1:10 to 1:1, and most preferably 1:5 to 1:2.
[0046] Branched cationic conditioning surfactants contain ester groups and are selected from structure 1.
[0047]
[0048] in:
[0049] R1 and R2 contain straight-chain hydrocarbon groups, which may be saturated or unsaturated, with carbon-carbon chain lengths ranging from C4 to C6. 20 C6 to C are preferred 18 ;
[0050] R3 contains a proton or a carbon-carbon chain with a length of C1 to C5, preferably a saturated or unsaturated straight-chain or branched hydrocarbon chain of C1 to C3;
[0051] n has a range of 0-10, preferably selected from 0 and 1;
[0052] · It is an organic or inorganic anion;
[0053] The molar ratio of branched cationic surfactant (i) to linear aliphatic substance (ii) is in the range of 1:20 to 1:1, preferably 1:10 to 1:1, and most preferably 1:5 to 1:2.
[0054] In structure 1, the amino head group is charged in the final formulation. However, the charge in the raw materials is not permanent, but can be induced by protonation in the formulation using a strong acid.
[0055] Optionally, at least one of R1 and R2 contains a bond selected from ester (-OCO- or -COO-), amide (-NOC- or NCO-), and ether (-O-) in the hydrocarbon chain.
[0056] It is an organic or inorganic anion. Preferably, It contains anions selected from the following: halide ions; general formula RSO3 - The sulfate group, where R is a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 1-4 carbon atoms, and an anionic group of organic acid.
[0057] Preferred halide ions are selected from fluoride ions, chloride ions, bromide ions, and iodide ions. Preferred anionic radicals of organic acids are selected from maleate, fumarate, oxalate, tartrate, citrate, lactate, and acetate. Preferred sulfate radicals are methanesulfonate and ethanesulfonate.
[0058] Most preferably, It contains anions selected from halide ions, methanesulfonate groups, and ethanesulfonate groups.
[0059] In a preferred embodiment,
[0060] R1 and R2 contain straight-chain hydrocarbon groups, which may be saturated or unsaturated, with carbon-carbon chain lengths ranging from C4 to C6. 20 C6 to C are preferred 18 ;
[0061] R3 contains protons or carbon-carbon chains with a length of C1 to C5, preferably C1 to C3, and consists of saturated or unsaturated straight-chain or branched alkyl chains.
[0062] n has a range of 0-10, preferably selected from 0 and 1;
[0063] · It is an organic or inorganic anion.
[0064] Methods for preparing suitable branched cationic surfactants are known in the art and described, for example, in Chemistry, A European Journal, 2008, 14, 382. For example, 2-((2-octyldodecyl)oxy)-2-oxoethane-1-ammonium methanesulfonate can be synthesized by acid-catalyzed condensation of glycine with a specific Guerbert alcohol, thereby providing the desired product in a single step.
[0065] Examples of suitable materials conforming to Structure 1 are 2-((2-butyloctyl)oxy)-2-oxoethane-1-ammonium methanesulfonate, 2-((2-hexyldecyl)oxy)-2-oxoethane-1-ammonium methanesulfonate, 2-((2-octyldodecyl)oxy)-2-oxoethane-1-ammonium methanesulfonate, 2-((2-decyltetradecyl)oxy)-2-oxoethane-1-ammonium methanesulfonate, 2-((2-dodecylhexadecyl)oxy)-2-oxoethane-1-ammonium methanesulfonate, and 2-((2-tetradecyloctadecyl)oxy)-2-oxoethane-1-ammonium methanesulfonate. Alternatively, a chloride counterion can be used in place of the methanesulfonate ion in the examples above.
[0066] Fatty substances
[0067] The compositions of the present invention contain 0.1 to 10% by weight of linear fatty substances.
[0068] The combined use of fatty substances and cationic surfactants in conditioning compositions is believed to be particularly advantageous because it results in the formation of a structured layered or liquid crystal phase in which the cationic surfactant is dispersed.
[0069] Fatty substances consist of carbon-carbon chains. The term "straight chain" means that the carbon-carbon chains are linear in nature (i.e., without branching). "Straight-chain fatty substances" have only linear carbon-carbon chains. Linear chains can be saturated or unsaturated.
[0070] The "straight-chain fatty substance" is selected from straight-chain fatty alcohols, straight-chain alkoxylated fatty alcohols, straight-chain fatty acids, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the straight-chain fatty substance is selected from straight-chain fatty alcohols and straight-chain fatty acids, and mixtures thereof, with straight-chain fatty alcohols being the most preferred.
[0071] Preferably, the alkyl chain of the aliphatic substance is fully saturated. A representative aliphatic substance contains 8 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably 16 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0072] Suitable fatty alcohols contain 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 22, and most preferably C16 to C18. Fatty alcohols are typically compounds containing straight-chain alkyl groups. Preferably, the alkyl group is saturated. Examples of preferred fatty alcohols include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. The use of these substances is also advantageous because they contribute to the overall conditioning properties of the compositions used in the present invention.
[0073] Alkoxylated (e.g., ethoxylated or propoxylated) fatty alcohols having about 12 to about 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain can be used in place of the fatty alcohol itself or in addition to the fatty alcohol. Suitable examples include ethylene glycol cetyl ether, polyoxyethylene (2) stearyl ether, polyoxyethylene (4) cetyl ether, and mixtures thereof.
[0074] In the conditioning agent of the present invention, the level of fatty substances is suitably 0.1 to 10% by weight of the total composition, preferably 0.1 to 5%.
[0075] Structured agents
[0076] The compositions of the present invention contain a structuring agent.
[0077] The structuring agent is nonionic.
[0078] Preferably, the structuring agent is selected from unmodified structuring agents, hydrophobically modified structuring agents, and mixtures thereof, with unmodified structuring agents being the most preferred.
[0079] Cationic structuring agents, such as phosphorylated starch, are unsuitable because the positive charge competes with siloxanes for deposition on hair. Cationic structuring agents are substances that dissociate in solution to form cationic compounds, although they can be nonionic in salt form.
[0080] In this invention, the nonionic structuring agent does not form cationic substances in solution.
[0081] Preferably, the structuring agent has a molecular weight in the range of 500 kDa to 2 MDa.
[0082] Preferably, the structuring agent is a polysaccharide, preferably derived from cellulose.
[0083] Examples of suitable structuring agents include hydroxyethyl cellulose (HEC) (a non-modified structuring agent), such as those marketed under the trade name Natrosol. TM The series was purchased from Ashland. Another suitable example of a polysaccharide is StructureXL (unmodified starch) from Nouryon. Another suitable cellulose structuring agent is Plantasens BiogumTara from Clariant.
[0084] Suitable hydrophobic modifying agents include hydroxyethyl and long-chain alkyl groups. For example, hydrophobically modified HEC can be used as Natrosol Plus 330 or Polysurf. TM 67 (from Ashland) obtained.
[0085] The preferred structuring agent is hydroxyethyl cellulose.
[0086] Granular Probiotics
[0087] The compositions of the present invention comprise particulate beneficial agents. The particulate beneficial agents are selected from conditioning active substances. Most preferably, the particulate beneficial agents are siloxane emulsions.
[0088] The total amount of the particulate beneficial agent is preferably 0.1% to 10% by weight of the total composition, more preferably 0.1% to 5% by weight, even more preferably 0.25% to 3% by weight, and most preferably 0.25% to 1.5% by weight.
[0089] The preferred siloxane emulsion does not contain hydrophobic modification, and preferably is not a myristoyloxy-modified siloxane, most preferably is not a myristyloxy-modified siloxane or a hexadecyloxy-modified siloxane. Most preferably, the siloxane emulsion used in the compositions of the present invention is selected from emulsions of polydimethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane alcohol, amino-terminated polydimethylsiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
[0090] Suitable emulsified siloxanes include polydimethylsiloxanes, which have the CTFA name dimethyl silicone oil. Also suitable for the compositions of the present invention are polydimethylsiloxanes having hydroxyl-terminated groups, which have the CTFA name polydimethylsiloxane alcohol. Preferably, the siloxane is selected from polydimethylsiloxanes, polydimethylsiloxane alcohols, amino-terminated polydimethylsiloxanes, and mixtures thereof. Blends of amino-functionalized siloxanes and polydimethylsiloxanes are also preferred.
[0091] The viscosity of the emulsified siloxane itself (not the emulsion or the final hair conditioning composition) is typically at least 10,000 cst at 25°C, and preferably at least 60,000 cst, most preferably at least 500,000 cst, and ideally at least 1,000,000 cst. Preferably, for ease of formulation, the viscosity does not exceed 10. 9 cst.
[0092] The emulsified siloxanes used in the compositions of the present invention typically have a D90 siloxane droplet size of less than 30 micrometers, preferably less than 20 micrometers, more preferably less than 10 micrometers, and ideally 0.01 to 1 micrometer. Siloxane emulsions having an average siloxane droplet size (D50) of 0.15 micrometers are generally referred to as microemulsions.
[0093] The particle size of siloxanes can be measured using laser scattering techniques, such as the 2600D Particle Sizer from Malvern Instruments.
[0094] Examples of suitable pre-formed emulsions include Xiameter MEM 1785 and microemulsion DC2-1865, which are available from Dow Corning. These are emulsions / microemulsions of polydimethylsiloxane alcohol. Crosslinked siloxane gels can also be obtained in a pre-emulsified form, which facilitates formulation.
[0095] Another preferred class of siloxanes for inclusion in the compositions of the present invention are amino-functionalized siloxanes. "Amino-functionalized siloxane" refers to a siloxane containing at least one primary, secondary, or tertiary amine group or quaternary ammonium group. Examples of suitable amino-functionalized siloxanes include polysiloxanes having the CTFA name "amino-terminated polydimethylsiloxane". A preferred amino-terminated polydimethylsiloxane is DC 7134, commercially available from Dow Corning.
[0096] Specific examples of amino-functionalized siloxanes suitable for use in this invention are amino silicone oils DC2-8220, DC2-8166, and DC2-8566 (all from Dow Corning).
[0097] Suitable quaternary silicone polymers are described in EP-A-0530 974. A preferred quaternary silicone polymer is K3474, from Goldschmidt.
[0098] Emulsions of amino-functional silicone oils with nonionic and / or cationic surfactants are also suitable.
[0099] Preformed emulsions of amino-functionalized siloxanes can also be obtained from silicone oil suppliers such as Dow Corning and General Electric. Specific examples include the DC939 cationic emulsion and nonionic emulsions DC2-7224, DC2-8467, DC2-8177, and DC2-8154 (all from Dow Corning).
[0100] Optional linear cationic conditioning surfactants
[0101] The composition may contain a linear cationic conditioning surfactant that is cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to hair.
[0102] Preferably, the linear cationic conditioning surfactant has the formula 1:N + (R 1 (R) 2 (R)3 (R) 4 ), where R 1 R 2 R 3 and R 4 Independently for (C1 to C) 30 )Alkyl or benzyl.
[0103] In Equation 1, preferably, R 1 R 2 R 3 and R 4 One, two, or three independently constitute (C4 to C) 30 ) alkyl, and one or more other R 1 R 2 R 3 and R 4 The group is (C1 to C6) alkyl or benzyl.
[0104] More preferably, R 1 R 2 R 3 and R 4 One or two of them are independently (C6 to C) 30 ) alkyl, and other R 1 R 2 R 3 and R 4 The group is (C1-C6) alkyl or benzyl. Optionally, the alkyl group may contain one or more ester (-OCO- or -COO-), amide (-NOC- or NCO-), and / or ether (-O-) bonds within the alkyl chain. The alkyl group may optionally be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups. The alkyl group may be straight-chain or branched, and for alkyl groups having three or more carbon atoms, it may be cyclic. The alkyl group may be saturated or may contain one or more carbon-carbon double bonds (e.g., oleyl). The alkyl group may optionally be ethoxylated with one or more vinyloxy groups on the alkyl chain.
[0105] Suitable quaternary ammonium salts for use in the conditioning compositions according to the invention are quaternary ammonium salts containing 12-24 carbon atoms, preferably 16-22 carbon atoms.
[0106] Suitable quaternary ammonium salts for use in the conditioning compositions according to the invention include cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylmethylammonium sulfate, behenylaminopropyl dimethylamine, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetylpyridine chloride, tetramethylammonium chloride, tetraethylammonium chloride, octyltrimethylammonium chloride, dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, octyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, decyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, stearalkonium chloride, stearalkonium methosulphate, didodecyldimethylammonium chloride, dioctadecyldimethylammonium chloride, tallow trimethylammonium chloride, dihydrotallow dimethylammonium chloride (e.g., Arquad 2HT / 75, from AkzoNobel), and cocotrimethylammonium chloride.
[0107] The preferred quaternary ammonium salt is selected from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylmethylammonium sulfate, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and mixtures thereof.
[0108] A particularly useful cationic surfactant in the conditioner according to the invention is cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, which is available, for example, as GENAMIN CTAC from Hoechst Celanese. Another particularly preferred cationic surfactant in the conditioner according to the invention is behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, which is available, for example, as GENAMIN KDMP from Clariant.
[0109] Other suitable cationic surfactants include those with CTFA designations Quaternary ammonium salt-5, Quaternary ammonium salt-31, and Quaternary ammonium salt-18. Mixtures of any of the aforementioned materials may also be suitable.
[0110] Another example of a suitable class of cationic surfactants for use in this invention, alone or in combination with one or more other cationic surfactants, is the combination of the following (i) and (ii):
[0111] (i) Amide groups corresponding to general formula (II):
[0112] R 1 CONH(CH2) m N(R 2 )R 3 (II)
[0113] Where R 1 For a hydrocarbon chain with 10 or more carbon atoms, R 2 and R 3Independently selected hydrocarbon chains of 1 to 10 carbon atoms, where m is an integer from 1 to approximately 10; and
[0114] (ii) Acid.
[0115] As used herein, the term hydrocarbon chain means alkyl or alkenyl chain.
[0116] Preferred amide amine compounds are those corresponding to formula (I), wherein
[0117] R 1 It consists of hydrocarbon residues having approximately 11 to approximately 24 carbon atoms.
[0118] R 2 and R 3 Each is independently a hydrocarbon residue having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably alkyl, and m is an integer from 1 to 4.
[0119] Preferably, R 2 and R 3 It can be methyl or ethyl.
[0120] Preferably, m is 2 or 3, i.e., ethylene or propylene.
[0121] Preferred amide amines useful herein include stearamide propyl dimethylamine (TAS), stearamide propyl diethylamine, stearamide ethyl diethylamine, stearamide ethyl dimethylamine, palmitamide propyl dimethylamine, palmitamide propyl diethylamine, palmitamide ethyl diethylamine, palmitamide ethyl dimethylamine, behenamide propyl dimethylamine, behenamide propyl diethylamine, behenamide ethyl diethylamine, behenamide ethyl dimethylamine, arachidamide propyl dimethylamine, arachidamide propyl diethylamine, arachidamide ethyl diethylamine, arachidamide ethyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
[0122] The particularly preferred amide amines useful in this article are stearamide propyl dimethylamine, stearamide ethyl diethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
[0123] Commercially available amide amines useful in this article include: stearamide propyl dimethylamine, available from Inolex (Philadelphia Pennsylvania, USA) under the trade name LEXAMINE S-13 and from Nikko (Tokyo, Japan) under the trade name AMIDOAMINE MSP; stearamide ethyl diethylamine, available from Nikko under the trade name AMIDOAMINE S; behenamide propyl dimethylamine, available from Croda (North Humberside, UK) under the trade name INCROMINE BB; and various amide amines from Scher (Clifton New Jersey, USA) under the trade name SCHERCODINE series.
[0124] The acid can be any organic or inorganic acid capable of protonating an amide group in a conditioning composition. Suitable acids useful herein include hydrochloric acid, acetic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, succinic acid, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the acid is selected from acetic acid, tartaric acid, hydrochloric acid, fumaric acid, lactic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0125] The primary function of the acid is to protonate the amide groups in the hair treatment composition, thereby forming a (TAS) tertiary amine salt (stearoamide propyl dimethylamine) in situ within the hair treatment composition. Stearoamide propyl dimethylamine is actually a non-permanent quaternary ammonium or pseudoquaternary ammonium cationic surfactant.
[0126] Suitable, the acid is included in an amount sufficient to protonate more than 95 mol% of the present amide group (293 K).
[0127] In the conditioning agents used in this invention, the level of linear cationic conditioning surfactants is typically from 0.01 to 10%, more preferably from 0.05 to 7.5%, and most preferably from 0.1 to 5%, based on the total weight of the total composition and the total weight of the cationic conditioning surfactants.
[0128] Further components
[0129] The compositions according to the invention may contain any of a number of ingredients commonly found in hair conditioning compositions.
[0130] Other ingredients may include preservatives, colorants, polyols such as glycerin and polypropylene glycol, chelating agents such as EDTA, antioxidants such as vitamin E acetate, fragrances, antimicrobial agents, and sunscreens. Each of these ingredients will be present in an amount sufficient to effectively achieve its purpose. Typically, these optional ingredients are included individually at a maximum of about 5% by weight of the total composition.
[0131] Preferably, the additional ingredients include fragrances, preservatives, colorants, and conditioning siloxanes.
[0132] The compositions of the present invention are preferably free of viscosity modifiers and thickeners, such as thickening polymers.
[0133] A mixture of any of the above active ingredients may also be used.
[0134] Typically, each of these components is included at a level of up to 2%, preferably up to 1%, by weight of the total composition.
[0135] Embodiments of the present invention are given in the following examples, wherein, unless otherwise stated, all percentages are based on total weight by weight.
[0136] Example
[0137] Example 1: Composition 1 according to the present invention and comparative compositions A and B
[0138] Prepare the following compositions:
[0139] Comparative Example A: Contains a straight-chain alkyl surfactant and does not contain a structuring agent.
[0140] Comparative Example B: Contains a branched cationic (ester) surfactant according to Structure 1, but without a structuring agent.
[0141] Example 1: Contains a branched cationic (ester) surfactant and a structuring agent according to structure 1.
[0142] Table 1: Compositions of Example 1 (according to the present invention) and Comparative Examples A and B
[0143]
[0144] Example 2: Hair treatment with compositions A, B and 1
[0145] The hair used (native) is dark brown European hair, weighing 5g and consisting of a 6-inch length.
[0146] To bleach the original hair, apply PlatinePrecision White Compact Lightening Powder (L'Oreal Professionnel Paris, Paris, France) mixed with 9% cream peroxide, 30'vol' (Excel GS Ltd, UK) (60g powder mixed with 120g cream peroxide) and let it stand for 30 minutes. Then rinse the hair with water for 2 minutes.
[0147] First, treat your virgin or bleached hair with a cleansing shampoo using the following methods:
[0148] Hold the hair fibers under running water for 30 seconds, apply shampoo at a dosage of 0.1 ml per 1 g of hair, and massage into the hair for 30 seconds. Remove excess foam by holding under running water for 30 seconds and repeat the shampooing process. Rinse the hair under running water for 1 minute.
[0149] Then treat the wet hair with the composition (raw or bleached) using the following methods: -
[0150] Apply the conditioner to wet hair at a dose of 0.2 ml per 1 g of hair and massage it into the hair for 1 minute. Rinse the hair with running water for 1 minute to remove excess water.
[0151] Example 3: Decolorized hair treated with compositions A, B, and 1, and virgin hair treated with compositions A and 1. Siloxane deposition
[0152] Table 2: Amount of siloxane deposited on hair treated with Examples A and B (comparative) and Example 1 (according to the present invention).
[0153] Example A B 1 Siloxane deposition [ppm] - Decolorizing hair 229 183 949 Siloxane deposition standard deviation [ppm] - depigmented hair 14 28 58 Siloxane deposition [ppm] - native hair 1102 - 1059 Siloxane deposition standard deviation [ppm] - native hair 62 - 47
[0154] Comparative Example A is a typical composition representing the prior art, containing a linear alkyl surfactant. Comparative Example A deposited 1100 ppm of siloxane onto native hair, but when used on bleached hair, the deposition was only 230 ppm. This demonstrates the problem solved by the present invention.
[0155] Comparative Example B, outside the scope of this invention, incorporates a branched cationic surfactant but lacks a structuring agent. Therefore, lower deposition performance is obtained.
[0156] The composition of the present invention, as shown in Example 1, differs from Comparative Examples A and B in that it contains both a branched cationic material and a structuring agent material. It can be seen that a significant increase in the amount of siloxane is achieved. Furthermore, deposition on native hair is maintained.
Claims
1. A composition comprising: (i) 0.01 to 10% by weight of branched cationic conditioning surfactants; Selected from Structure 1: in: ● R1 and R2 contain straight-chain hydrocarbon chains that are saturated, with carbon-carbon chain lengths ranging from C4 to C6. 20 ; ● R3 contains a proton or a saturated straight-chain or branched hydrocarbon chain with a carbon-carbon chain length of C1 to C5; ● n has a range of 0-10; ● It is an organic or inorganic anion; (ii) 0.1 to 10% by weight of a straight-chain aliphatic substance comprising a straight carbon-carbon chain, which is an aliphatic alcohol; (iii) 0.1 to 5% by weight of a nonionic structuring agent, wherein the structuring agent is a nonionic polysaccharide derived from cellulose; and (iv) A particulate beneficial agent selected from conditioning active substances, wherein the conditioning active substance is a siloxane emulsion; The molar ratio of branched cationic surfactant (i) to linear aliphatic substance (ii) is in the range of 1:20 to 1:1; and The composition described herein does not contain linear alkyl surfactants.
2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the structuring agent is hydroxyethyl cellulose.
3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the siloxane emulsion is selected from emulsions of polydimethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane alcohol, ammonia-terminated polydimethylsiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
4. The composition according to any one of claims 1-3, wherein the siloxane emulsion does not contain hydrophobic modification.
5. The composition according to any one of claims 1-3, wherein the siloxane emulsion is not a myristoyloxy-modified siloxane.
6. The composition according to any one of claims 1-3, wherein the particulate beneficial agent is present in an amount of 0.1% to 10% by weight of the total composition.
7. The composition of claim 6, wherein the particulate beneficial agent is present in an amount of 0.25 to 1.5% by weight.
8. The composition according to any one of claims 1-3, wherein It contains anions selected from halide ions, methanesulfonate groups, and ethanesulfonate groups.
9. The composition according to any one of claims 1-3, wherein the molar ratio of the branched cationic surfactant (i) to the straight-chain aliphatic substance (ii) is in the range of 1:10 to 1:
1.
10. The composition according to any one of claims 1-3, wherein the branched cationic conditioning surfactant is present in an amount of 0.01 to 5% by weight.
11. A method for increasing the deposition of a particulate beneficial agent selected from a conditioning active substance on decolorized hair compared to similar compositions not containing a branched cationic conditioning surfactant according to structure 1, wherein the conditioning active substance is a siloxane emulsion, the method comprising the steps of: Apply the composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 10 to the hair, and rinse the hair with water.
12. The use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10 for delivering an increased amount of a particulate beneficial agent selected from conditioning active substances to decolorized hair compared to similar compositions not containing a branched cationic conditioning surfactant according to structure 1, wherein the conditioning active substance is a siloxane emulsion.