A method for making a pattern of a close-fitting women's outerwear shirt

Abstract

The present application relates to a kind of making plate method of integrated female outerwear shirt, and is made using the following steps: 1. making front and back piece pattern;2. the front and back piece pattern is divided into front and back over-shoulder pattern and front and back piece lower cut pattern;3. making front and back waist on the front and back piece lower cut pattern; making back waist on the back piece lower cut pattern;4. making front over-shoulder measurement on the front over-shoulder pattern, and transferring the front over-shoulder measurement to the back over-shoulder pattern;5. re-determining the front over-shoulder pattern and the front piece lower cut pattern, and making chest pocket pattern; after wearing the shirt of the present application, the shoulder is smooth, the shoulder and the position of neck opening are flat and fit, conform to the body shape characteristics of human back, more beautiful, more comfortable, and the chest pocket is flat and prevents front door sliding.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to a pattern-making method for a fitted women's outerwear shirt, belonging to the field of garment processing technology. Background Technology

[0002] Although women's outer shirts appeared later than men's shirts, women are required to wear shirts in certain work fields. However, current women's outer shirts tend to bunch up at the front and shoulders, do not fit well in the front and back, and stick up at the shoulders and chest pockets. They are not only ill-fitting but also unsightly. Summary of the Invention

[0003] The technical problem to be solved by the present invention is to provide a pattern making method for a well-fitting women's outerwear shirt that is both aesthetically pleasing and comfortable to wear.

[0004] The present invention adopts the following technical solution:

[0005] The shirt of this invention includes a front panel pattern and a back panel pattern, with known dimensions of chest circumference, placket width, back length, and back collar opening. Its distinguishing feature is that the front panel pattern includes a front shoulder drape pattern and a front bottom panel pattern, and the back panel pattern includes a back shoulder drape pattern and a back bottom panel pattern. The shirt is manufactured using the following steps:

[0006] Step S1. Make the front and back garment patterns;

[0007] Step S2. Divide the front bodice pattern into the front shoulder pattern and the lower front bodice pattern;

[0008] Step S3. Divide the back bodice pattern into the back shoulder pattern and the back bodice bottom section pattern;

[0009] Step S4. Create the front waist dart on the bottom cut pattern of the front bodice; create the back waist dart on the bottom cut pattern of the back bodice.

[0010] Step S5. Create a front shoulder allowance on the front shoulder template and transfer the front shoulder allowance to the back shoulder template;

[0011] Step S6. Re-determine the front shoulder pattern and the front bodice bottom pattern from Step S2, and create the chest pocket pattern.

[0012] Step S1 of the present invention specifically includes the following steps:

[0013] Step S11. Construct a regular quadrilateral abdc. The lengths of line segments ab and cd are both the back garment length + 3.2cm, and the lengths of line segments ac and bd are both the bust circumference / 2 + 0.6cm + the placket width.

[0014] Construct lines ef, gh, ij, and kl parallel to ac within quadrilateral abdc. Line segments ef, gh, ij, and kl intersect ab at points e, g, i, and k, respectively, and intersect cd at points f, h, j, and l. The perpendicular distance between ef and ac is 2.1–2.3 cm; the perpendicular distance between ef and gh is chest circumference / 6 + 5.5 cm; the distance between ef and ij is 35.5–36.5 cm; and the distance between ef and kl is the back garment length.

[0015] Step S12. Take a point m on ac to the right from point a. The length of am is the width of the back collar. Draw a line mn parallel to ae through point m, where ae = mn.

[0016] Draw a line segment mX diagonally downwards and to the right from point m. The angle between mX and ac is 17° to 18°. The length of line segment mX is 12.5cm. Connect em with an arc.

[0017] Take a point o on ac, moving right from point m. ao = B / 6 + 2.2 cm. Draw a line op parallel to ab through point o. op intersects gh at point p.

[0018] Draw a line ST parallel to ef below ef. The perpendicular distance between ef and ST is 8.5-9.0 cm. ST intersects ab at point S and ST intersects op at point T. Take point U on op 0.8-1.0 cm perpendicularly downward from point T.

[0019] Step S13. Draw a line st parallel to cd to the left of line cd. The horizontal distance between cd and st is 1.5cm. st intersects bd at point t. Point s is 1.0cm above line ac.

[0020] Draw a horizontal line segment su to the left from point s, the length of su is the back neck opening width + 0.3cm;

[0021] Take point v 8.5cm vertically downward from point u. Draw a line vW parallel to us to the right from point v. vW intersects st at point x and cd at point W. Connect uxW with the arc.

[0022] Draw a line segment uV diagonally downwards and to the left from point u. The angle between uV and the extension of su is 19° to 20°, and the length of line segment uV is 12.5cm.

[0023] Draw a line qr parallel to st to the left of st. The horizontal distance between st and qr is chest circumference / 6 + 1.0 cm. qr intersects gh at point r. Take point Y on the rq line 7.5 cm upward from point r.

[0024] Step S14. Take a point w on gh at a chest circumference / 4 to the right of point g. Draw a line wQ parallel to ab downwards through point w. wQ intersects kl at point Q. Connect XTw with the arc.

[0025] Point E is located 1.0–1.25 cm to the left of wQ on ij; point F is located 1.0–1.25 cm to the right of wQ on ij; point G is located 0.25 cm to the left of wQ on kl; point H is located 0.25 cm to the right of wQ on kl; connect wEH and wFG with arcs; then XTwEHkem is the pattern for the back garment piece;

[0026] Step S15. Take point I 24.5-25cm vertically downward from point u and 8.5-9.0cm horizontally to the left from point st. Connect point Iw with a straight line. Take point J above point w and connect point IJ with a straight line, so that Iw = IJ. The length of point wJ is 3.0-3.5cm. Connect point Jw with a straight line. Then IJw is the bust dart. Smoothly connect VYJ and Gd with an arc. Then VYJwFGdWu is the front garment pattern.

[0027] The specific operation of step S2 of the present invention is as follows:

[0028] Based on step S13, take point R at dc 7.0cm upward from point h, connect YR, and divide the front garment pattern uWdGFwJYV into the front shoulder pattern YVuWR and the front lower garment pattern YRdGFwJ.

[0029] The specific operation of step S3 of the present invention is as follows:

[0030] Based on step S12, the arc smoothly connects SU, dividing the back garment pattern XTwEHkem into the back shoulder pattern SemXT and the back garment lower section pattern SUwEHk.

[0031] Step S4 of the present invention specifically adopts the following steps:

[0032] Step S401. Take point L on the arc dG 13-14cm to the left of point d, and take point K 8.5-9.0cm to the left of line st and below point I. The vertical distance between K and u is 27.5-28cm. Connect KL with a straight line.

[0033] Point M is located 1.0–1.25 cm to the left of KL on ij, and point N is located 1.0–1.25 cm to the right of KL on ij.

[0034] Take point O on Gd 0.25cm to the left of KL, and point P on dG 0.25cm to the right of KL. Connect KMO and KNP with an arc. Then KMOPN is the front waist dart.

[0035] Step S402. Draw a line yz parallel to ab to the right of ab. The horizontal distance between ab and yz is 12 to 12.5 cm. yz intersects kl at point z. Point y is 3 to 3.5 cm above gh.

[0036] Point A is located 1.25-1.5cm to the left of yz on ij, and point B is located 1.25-1.5cm to the right of yz on ij.

[0037] Take point C on kl 0.25cm to the left of yz, and point D on kl 0.25cm to the right of yz. Connect yAC and yBD with arcs. Then yACDB is the back waist dart.

[0038] Step S5 of the present invention specifically adopts the following steps:

[0039] Step S501. On the front shoulder overprint template YVuWR, draw a line a1b1 parallel to line segment Vu. The perpendicular distance between Vu and a1b1 is 2.0~2.5cm. Cut along line a1b1 through point a1. Then a1b1Vu is the front shoulder overprint amount. The new labels corresponding to the original a1 and b1 are a2 and b2. Then a2b2WRY is the new front shoulder overprint template, and a2b2 is the new front shoulder line.

[0040] Step S52. Rotate the front shoulder overpass Vua1b1 counterclockwise around point V as the axis, so that the Vu line coincides with the shoulder line Xm of the rear shoulder overpass pattern SemXT. Then eb1a1Ts is the new rear shoulder overpass pattern, and b1a1 is the new rear shoulder line.

[0041] The present invention moves the chest dart IJw downward, and the specific steps are as follows:

[0042] Take point c1 outside the JG line of the pattern YRdGFwJ cut below the front piece, and connect c1J. The length of c1J is 9.0~9.5cm.

[0043] Take point d1 on line JG, connect c1d1, the length of c1d1 is 3.0~3.5cm; connect d1I and c1I, d1I=c1I; then c1Id1 is the downward shifted diaphragm.

[0044] Make the breast pockets on the pattern YRdGFwJ cut below the front piece, using the following steps;

[0045] Take points g1 and e1 on line YR, where g1e1 = 11.0cm. Draw a line e1f1 parallel to line Rd downwards from point e1, with a length of 13.0cm. The horizontal distance between line e1f1 and line Rd is 6.0cm. Draw a perpendicular line g1h1 to line YR from point g1, with a length of 13.0cm. Connect h1f1. g1h1f1e1 is the breast pocket.

[0046] In this invention, the midpoint i1 of line segment YR is made, and i1I is connected by a straight line. i1I and c1I are cut apart. c1Ii1YJ is rotated in the direction of d1 with I as the axis, so that c1 moves 0.5cm in the direction of d1 and the length of line segment YR is extended by 0.3cm.

[0047] The specific operation of step S6 of the present invention is as follows:

[0048] Draw the extension line Yj1 of the arc JY, with a length of 0.5cm; j1RdGd1c1J is the newly determined lower section pattern of the front garment piece;

[0049] Take the midpoint o1 on line segment YR of a2b2WRY, take point k1 on arc a2Y, the length of k1Y is 0.5cm, take point l1 on line segment WR, the length of l1R is 0.3cm; smoothly connect k1o1l1 with arc, then a2b2Wl1o1k1 is the redefined front shoulder pattern.

[0050] Take a point m1 on line segment g1h1 of the breast patch bag g1h1f1e1, with a length of 0.5cm. Extend line g1n1 of line segment g1h1, with a length of 0.5cm. Then m1n1f1e1 is the redefined breast patch bag pattern.

[0051] The positive effects of this invention are as follows: This invention solves the problem of uneven shoulders by drawing a line segment mX diagonally downwards and to the right from point m, with an angle of 17°–18° between mX and ac; and drawing a line segment uV diagonally downwards and to the left from point u, with an angle of 19°–20° between uV and the extension of su. A horizontal line segment su is drawn to the left from point s, with a length equal to the back neckline width + 0.3cm, resulting in a smoother and more fitted shoulder and neckline for the shirt. A parallel line ST is drawn below ef, with a vertical distance of 8.5–9.0cm between ef and ST. ST intersects ab at point S and op at point T. A line segment perpendicular to point T is drawn... Take a point U on op 0.8-1.0cm below the shoulder, and smoothly connect it to SU with an arc. This removes the excess fabric at the back of the armhole, making the garment more conform to the shape of the human back, and more beautiful and comfortable. Draw the midpoint i1 of line segment YR, and connect i1I with a straight line. Cut i1I and c1I apart, and rotate c1Ii1YJ in the direction of d1 with I as the axis, so that c1 moves 0.5cm in the direction of d1. The length of line segment YR is extended by 0.3cm, so that the chest patch pocket is flat and the front opening is prevented from slipping (the front stop is not parallel, and the hem of the front stop is in an "eight" state). Wearing a shirt made according to this invention is beautiful and fits well. Attached Figure Description

[0052] Appendix Figure 1 This is a schematic diagram of the operation steps of the present invention;

[0053] Appendix Figure 2 This is a schematic diagram of the front shoulder transfer operation structure of the present invention;

[0054] Appendix Figure 3 This is a schematic diagram of the chest gorge transfer structure of the present invention;

[0055] Appendix Figure 4This is a schematic diagram of the transfer portion of the chest dart in this invention;

[0056] Appendix Figure 5 This is a schematic diagram illustrating the re-determined structure of the previous over-shoulder template of the present invention;

[0057] Appendix Figure 6 This is a schematic diagram illustrating the re-determined structure of the lower section pattern of the front garment piece of the present invention;

[0058] Appendix Figure 7 This is a schematic diagram showing the redesigned structure of the chest patch bag sample of the present invention. Detailed Implementation

[0059] As attached Figure 1 As shown, the shirt includes a front pattern and a back pattern. The chest circumference, placket width, back length, and back neck opening width are known. The front pattern includes a front shoulder drape pattern and a front bottom section pattern, and the back pattern includes a back shoulder drape pattern and a back bottom section pattern. The shirt is made using the following steps:

[0060] Step S1. Make the front and back garment patterns;

[0061] Step S2. Divide the front bodice pattern into the front shoulder pattern and the lower front bodice pattern;

[0062] Step S3. Divide the back bodice pattern into the back shoulder pattern and the back bodice bottom section pattern;

[0063] Step S4. Create the front waist dart on the bottom cut pattern of the front bodice; create the back waist dart on the bottom cut pattern of the back bodice.

[0064] Step S5. Create a front shoulder allowance on the front shoulder template and transfer the front shoulder allowance to the back shoulder template;

[0065] Step S6. Re-determine the front shoulder pattern and the front bodice bottom pattern from Step S2, and make the chest pocket pattern.

[0066] As attached Figure 1 As shown, step S1 specifically involves the following steps:

[0067] Step S11. Construct a regular quadrilateral abdc. The lengths of line segments ab and cd are both the back garment length + 3.2cm, and the lengths of line segments ac and bd are both the bust circumference / 2 + 0.6cm + the placket width.

[0068] Construct lines ef, gh, ij, and kl parallel to ac within quadrilateral abdc. Line segments ef, gh, ij, and kl intersect ab at points e, g, i, and k, respectively, and intersect cd at points f, h, j, and l. The perpendicular distance between ef and ac is 2.1–2.3 cm; the perpendicular distance between ef and gh is chest circumference / 6 + 5.5 cm; the distance between ef and ij is 35.5–36.5 cm; and the distance between ef and kl is the back garment length.

[0069] Step S12. Take a point m on ac to the right from point a. The length of am is the width of the back collar. Draw a line mn parallel to ae through point m, where ae = mn.

[0070] Draw a line segment mX diagonally downwards and to the right from point m. The angle between mX and ac is 17° to 18°. The length of line segment mX is 12.5cm. Connect em with an arc.

[0071] Take a point o on ac, moving right from point m. ao = B / 6 + 2.2 cm. Draw a line op parallel to ab through point o. op intersects gh at point p.

[0072] Draw a line ST parallel to ef below ef. The perpendicular distance between ef and ST is 8.5-9.0 cm. ST intersects ab at point S and ST intersects op at point T. Take point U on op 0.8-1.0 cm perpendicularly downward from point T.

[0073] Step S13. Draw a line st parallel to cd to the left of line cd. The horizontal distance between cd and st is 1.5cm. st intersects bd at point t. Point s is 1.0cm above line ac.

[0074] Draw a horizontal line segment su to the left from point s, the length of su is the back neck opening width + 0.3cm;

[0075] Take point v 8.5cm vertically downward from point u. Draw a line vW parallel to us to the right from point v. vW intersects st at point x and cd at point W. Connect uxW with the arc.

[0076] Draw a line segment uV diagonally downwards and to the left from point u. The angle between uV and the extension of su is 19° to 20°, and the length of line segment uV is 12.5cm.

[0077] Draw a line qr parallel to st to the left of st. The horizontal distance between st and qr is chest circumference / 6 + 1.0 cm. qr intersects gh at point r. Take point Y on the rq line 7.5 cm upward from point r.

[0078] Step S14. Take a point w on gh at a chest circumference / 4 to the right of point g. Draw a line wQ parallel to ab downwards through point w. wQ intersects kl at point Q. Connect XTw with the arc.

[0079] Point E is located 1.0–1.25 cm to the left of wQ on ij; point F is located 1.0–1.25 cm to the right of wQ on ij; point G is located 0.25 cm to the left of wQ on kl; point H is located 0.25 cm to the right of wQ on kl; connect wEH and wFG with arcs; then XTwEHkem is the pattern for the back garment piece;

[0080] Step S15. Take point I 24.5-25cm vertically downward from point u and 8.5-9.0cm horizontally to the left from point st. Connect point Iw with a straight line. Take point J above point w and connect point IJ with a straight line, so that Iw = IJ. The length of point wJ is 3.0-3.5cm. Connect point Jw with a straight line. Then IJw is the bust dart. Smoothly connect VYJ and Gd with an arc. Then VYJwFGdWu is the front garment pattern.

[0081] Step S2 is performed as follows:

[0082] Based on step S13, take point R at dc 7.0cm upward from point h, connect YR, and divide the front garment pattern uWdGFwJYV into the front shoulder pattern YVuWR and the front lower garment pattern YRdGFwJ.

[0083] Step S3 is performed as follows:

[0084] Based on step S12, the arc smoothly connects SU, dividing the back garment pattern XTwEHkem into the back shoulder pattern SemXT and the back garment lower section pattern SUwEHk.

[0085] As attached Figure 1 As shown, step S4 specifically involves the following steps:

[0086] Step S401. Take point L on the arc dG 13-14cm to the left of point d, and take point K 8.5-9.0cm to the left of line st and below point I. The vertical distance between K and u is 27.5-28cm. Connect KL with a straight line.

[0087] Point M is located 1.0–1.25 cm to the left of KL on ij, and point N is located 1.0–1.25 cm to the right of KL on ij.

[0088] Take point O on Gd 0.25cm to the left of KL, and point P on dG 0.25cm to the right of KL. Connect KMO and KNP with an arc. Then KMOPN is the front waist dart.

[0089] Step S402. Draw a line yz parallel to ab to the right of ab. The horizontal distance between ab and yz is 12 to 12.5 cm. yz intersects kl at point z. Point y is 3 to 3.5 cm above gh.

[0090] Point A is located 1.25-1.5cm to the left of yz on ij, and point B is located 1.25-1.5cm to the right of yz on ij.

[0091] Take point C on kl 0.25cm to the left of yz, and point D on kl 0.25cm to the right of yz. Connect yAC and yBD with arcs. Then yACDB is the back waist dart.

[0092] As attached Figure 2 As shown, step S5 specifically involves the following steps:

[0093] Step S501. On the front shoulder overprint template YVuWR, draw a line a1b1 parallel to line segment Vu. The perpendicular distance between Vu and a1b1 is 2.0~2.5cm. Cut along line a1b1 through point a1. Then a1b1Vu is the front shoulder overprint amount. The new labels corresponding to the original a1 and b1 are a2 and b2. Then a2b2WRY is the new front shoulder overprint template, and a2b2 is the new front shoulder line.

[0094] Step S52. Rotate the front shoulder overpass Vua1b1 counterclockwise around point V as the axis, so that the Vu line coincides with the shoulder line Xm of the rear shoulder overpass pattern SemXT. Then eb1a1Ts is the new rear shoulder overpass pattern, and b1a1 is the new rear shoulder line.

[0095] As attached Figure 3 As shown, the chest dart IJw is moved down, and the specific steps are as follows:

[0096] Take point c1 outside the JG line of the pattern YRdGFwJ cut below the front piece, and connect c1J. The length of c1J is 9.0~9.5cm.

[0097] Take point d1 on line JG, connect c1d1, the length of c1d1 is 3.0~3.5cm; connect d1I and c1I, d1I=c1I; then c1Id1 is the downward shifted diaphragm.

[0098] Make the breast pockets on the pattern YRdGFwJ cut below the front piece, using the following steps;

[0099] Take points g1 and e1 on line YR, where g1e1 = 11.0cm. Draw a line e1f1 parallel to line Rd downwards from point e1, with a length of 13.0cm. The horizontal distance between line e1f1 and line Rd is 6.0cm. Draw a perpendicular line g1h1 to line YR from point g1, with a length of 13.0cm. Connect h1f1. g1h1f1e1 is the breast pocket.

[0100] As attached Figure 4As shown, make i1 the midpoint of line segment YR, connect i1I with a straight line, cut i1I and c1I apart, rotate c1Ii1YJ in the direction of d1 with I as the axis, so that c1 moves 0.5cm in the direction of d1, and the length of line segment YR is extended by 0.3cm.

[0101] As attached Figure 5 , 6 As shown in Figure 7, the specific operation of step S6 is as follows:

[0102] Draw the extension line Yj1 of the arc JY, with a length of 0.5cm; j1RdGd1c1J is the newly determined lower section pattern of the front garment piece;

[0103] Take the midpoint o1 on line segment YR of a2b2WRY, take point k1 on arc a2Y, the length of k1Y is 0.5cm, take point l1 on line segment WR, the length of l1R is 0.3cm; smoothly connect k1o1l1 with arc, then a2b2Wl1o1k1 is the redefined front shoulder pattern.

[0104] Take a point m1 on line segment g1h1 of the breast patch bag g1h1f1e1, with a length of 0.5cm. Extend line g1n1 of line segment g1h1, with a length of 0.5cm. Then m1n1f1e1 is the redefined breast patch bag pattern.

[0105] This invention involves drawing a line segment mX diagonally downwards and to the right from point m, with an angle of 17°–18° between mX and ac; and drawing a line segment uV diagonally downwards and to the left from point u, with an angle of 19°–20° between uV and the extension of su, thus resolving the unevenness at the shoulders. A horizontal line segment su is drawn to the left from point s, with a length equal to the back neckline opening width + 0.3cm, resulting in a smoother and more fitted shoulder and neckline. A parallel line ST is drawn below ef, with a vertical distance of 8.5–9.0cm between ef and ST. ST intersects ab at point S and op at point T. A line segment su is drawn vertically downwards from point T for 0.8–… 1.0cm mark point U on op, and smoothly connect SU with an arc. This removes excess fabric at the back armhole, making the garment more conform to the body shape of the back, and more beautiful and comfortable. Draw the midpoint i1 of line segment YR, and connect i1I with a straight line. Cut i1I and c1I apart, and rotate c1Ii1YJ in the direction of d1 with I as the axis, so that c1 moves 0.5cm in the direction of d1. The length of line segment YR is extended by 0.3cm, so that the chest patch pocket is flat and the front opening is prevented from slipping (the front stop is not parallel, and the hem of the front stop is in an "eight" state). Wearing a shirt made according to this invention is beautiful and fits well.

[0106] The above description is merely an embodiment of the present invention. For those skilled in the art, various modifications and improvements can be made without departing from the concept of the present invention, and these modifications and improvements all fall within the protection scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. A method of making a pattern for a tailored women's outerwear blouse comprising a front panel pattern and a back panel pattern, given the dimensions of bust, underarm width, back length, back neckline opening width, characterized in that, The front panel pattern comprises a front over-shoulder pattern and a front panel lower cutting pattern, and the back panel pattern comprises a back over-shoulder pattern and a back panel lower cutting pattern, and is made by the following steps: Step S1. making the front panel pattern and the back panel pattern by the following steps: Step S11. making a rectangle abdc, the lengths of ab and cd are both back length+3.2 cm, and the lengths of ac and bd are both chest circumference / 2+0.6 cm+ door width; making parallel lines ef, gh, ij and kl of ac in the rectangle abdc, ef, gh, ij and kl intersect ab at e, g, i and k respectively, and intersect cd at f, h, j and l respectively, and the vertical distance between ef and ac is 2.1-2.3 cm; the vertical distance between ef and gh is chest circumference / 6+5.5 cm, the distance between ef and ij is 35.5-36.5 cm, and the distance between ef and kl is back length; Step S12. taking point m on ac rightward from point a, the length of am is back collar opening width, and making parallel line mn of ae through point m, ae=mn; making line segment mX rightward and downward from point m, the included angle between mX and ac is 17-18°, the length of line segment mX is 12.5 cm, and arc line connects em; taking point o on ac rightward from point m, ao=B / 6+2.2 cm, making parallel line op of ab through point o, op intersects gh at p, making parallel line ST of ef below ef, the vertical distance between ef and ST is 8.5-9.0 cm, ST intersects ab at S, and ST intersects op at T; taking point U on op vertically downward 0.8-1.0 cm from point T; Step S13. making parallel line st of cd leftward of cd, the horizontal distance between cd and st is 1.5 cm, st intersects bd at t, and s is 1.0 cm above ac; making horizontal line segment su leftward from point s, the length of su is back collar opening width+0.3 cm; taking point v 8.5 cm vertically downward from point u, making parallel line vW of us rightward from point v, vW intersects st at x and cd at W, and arc line connects uxW; making line segment uV obliquely leftward and downward from point u, the included angle between uV and the extension of su is 19-20°, and the length of line segment uV is 12.5 cm; making parallel line qr of st leftward of st, the horizontal distance between st and qr is chest circumference / 6+1.0 cm, qr intersects gh at r, and taking point Y on rq 7.5 cm upward from point r; Step S14. taking point w on gh chest circumference / 4 rightward from point g, making parallel line wQ of ab downward from point w, wQ intersects kl at Q, and arc line connects XTw; taking point E on ij 1.0-1.25 cm leftward of wQ, taking point F on ij 1.0-1.25 cm rightward of wQ, taking point G on kl 0.25 cm leftward of wQ, and taking point H on kl 0.25 cm rightward of wQ; arc line connects wEH, and arc line connects wFG; then XTwEHkem is the back panel pattern. Step S15. Take point I 24.5-25 cm vertically downward from point u and 8.5-9.0 cm horizontally leftward from line st, connect Iw straightly, take point J above point w, connect IJ straightly, make Iw=IJ, and the length of point wJ is 3.0-3.5 cm, connect Jw straightly, then IJw is the chest gore; connect VYJ and Gd in smooth arc, then VYJwFGdWu is the front panel pattern; Move the chest gore IJw downward, and the specific steps are as follows: Take point c1 outside the line JG of the front panel lower-cut pattern YRdGFwJ, connect c1J, and the length of c1J is 9.0-9.5 cm; Take point d1 on the line JG, connect c1d1, the length of c1d1 is 3.0-3.5 cm, connect d1I and c1I, d1I=c1I, then c1Id1 is the moved chest gore; Step S2. Divide the front panel pattern into a front over shoulder pattern and a front panel lower-cut pattern, and the specific operation is as follows: On the basis of step S13, take point R 7.0 cm upward from point h at dc, connect YR, and divide the front panel pattern uWdGFwJYV into a front over shoulder pattern YVuWR and a front panel lower-cut pattern YRdGFwJ; Step S3. Divide the back panel pattern into a back over shoulder pattern and a back panel lower-cut pattern; and the specific operation is as follows: On the basis of step S12, connect SU in smooth arc, divide the back panel pattern XTwEHkem into a back over shoulder pattern SemXT and a back panel lower-cut pattern SUwEHk; Step S4. Make a front waist gore on the front panel lower-cut pattern, and make a back waist gore on the back panel lower-cut pattern; Step S5. Make a front over shoulder amount on the front over shoulder pattern, and transfer the front over shoulder amount to the back over shoulder pattern, and the specific steps are as follows: Step S501. Make parallel line a1b1 of line segment Vu on the front over shoulder pattern YVuWR, the perpendicular distance between Vu and a1b1 is 2.0-2.5 cm, cut along line a1b1 through point a1, then a1b1Vu is the front over shoulder amount, and the original a1 and b1 are replaced by new a2 and b2, then a2b2WRY is the new front over shoulder pattern, and a2b2 is the new front shoulder line; Step S52. Rotate the front over shoulder amount Vua1b1 around point V counterclockwise, make Vu line coincide with shoulder line Xm of the back over shoulder pattern SemXT, then eb1a1Ts is the new back over shoulder pattern, and b1a1 is the new back shoulder line; Step S6. Redetermine the front over shoulder pattern and the front panel lower-cut pattern of step S2, and make a chest pocket pattern, and the specific operation is as follows: Make the extension line Yj1 of arc line JY, and the length of Yj1 is 0.5 cm; j1RdGd1c1J is the redetermined front panel lower-cut pattern; Take midpoint o1 on line segment YR of a2b2WRY, take point k1 on arc line a2Y, the length of k1Y is 0.5 cm, take point l1 on line segment WR, and the length of l1R is 0.3 cm; connect k1o1l1 in smooth arc, then a2b2Wl1o1k1 is the redetermined front over shoulder pattern; Make the midpoint i1 of the line segment YR, connect i1I, cut i1I and c1I, rotate c1Ii1YJ around I to the direction of d1, move c1 to the direction of d1 by 0.5 cm, and the length of the line segment YR is extended by 0.3 cm.

2. The method of making a pattern for a one-piece women's outerwear shirt according to claim 1, wherein, The step S4 specifically adopts the following steps: Step S401. Take point L on the arc line dG 13-14 cm to the left of point d, take point K 8.5-9.0 cm to the left of st line and below point I, the vertical distance between K and u is 27.5-28 cm, and connect KL in a straight line; Take point M on ij 1.0-1.25 cm to the left of KL, and take point N on ij 1.0-1.25 cm to the right of KL, Take point O on Gd 0.25 cm to the left of KL, and take point P on dG 0.25 cm to the right of KL, connect KMO and KNP in an arc line, and then KMOPN is the front waist province; Step S402. Make parallel line yz of ab to the right of ab, the horizontal distance between ab and yz is 12-12.5 cm, yz intersects kl at z point, and y point is 3-3.5 cm above gh; Take point A on ij 1.25-1.5 cm to the left of yz, and take point B on ij 1.25-1.5 cm to the right of yz; Take point C on kl 0.25 cm to the left of yz, and take point D on kl 0.25 cm to the right of yz, connect yAC in an arc line, and connect yBD in an arc line, then yACDB is the back waist province.

3. The method of claim 1, wherein the method further comprises the steps of: cutting the body of the woman's outerwear shirt to a size of a woman's body; and cutting the body of the woman's outerwear shirt to a size of a man's body. Make a chest patch bag on the front panel YRdGFwJ, specifically adopting the following steps; Take points g1 and e1 on the line YR, g1e1=11.0 cm, make parallel line e1f1 of Rd downward through point e1, the length of line segment e1f1 is 13.0 cm, and the horizontal distance between e1f1 line and Rd line is 6.0 cm; make vertical line g1h1 of YR through point g1, the length of g1h1 line is 13.0 cm, connect h1f1, and g1h1f1e1 is the chest patch bag.

4. The method of claim 1, wherein the method is for making a one-piece dress shirt for women. Take point m1 on the line segment g1h1 of the chest patch bag g1h1f1e1, the length of g1m1 is 0.5 cm, make the extension line g1n1 of line segment g1h1, the length of h1n1 is 0.5 cm, and then m1n1f1e1 is the re-determined chest patch bag pattern.

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