Composition for treating inflammatory skin diseases

Abstract

The present invention relates to a dermatological or dermatocosmetic composition in the form of a paraffin-free emulsion, which is particularly suitable for the treatment of inflammatory skin diseases, in particular sensitive or atopic skin. The composition comprises an aqueous phase comprising at least one emollient selected from polyols and an oily phase comprising an oily emollient system comprising at least 70% by weight of safflower oil and a second oily emollient.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention belongs to the field of dermatological or skin cosmetic compositions for treating sensitive skin, particularly those suffering from inflammatory conditions such as atopic or atopic-prone skin.

[0002] More particularly, the present invention relates to a dermatological or skin cosmetic composition in emulsion form, especially an oil-in-water emulsion, particularly suitable for such treatment, and its use in treating skin, especially inflammatory skin diseases. Background Technology

[0003] For over half a century, the use of skin and hair care products has gradually become a daily routine due to the pleasant sensations they provide, the instant comfort they offer, their ease of use, and the improvements in skin and hair quality. Consequently, a vast array of products, particularly emulsions, has been developed, available in various textures and galen forms. Advances in chemistry have enabled the introduction of more or less natural new raw materials to enhance the pleasantness of cosmetics and improve the protective properties of these products through preservatives.

[0004] Cosmetic emulsions consist of two phases: an aqueous phase (primarily composed of water and water extracts) and an oil phase (primarily composed of oils, waxes, lipids, and fatty alcohols). Both phases are emulsified using surfactants or emulsifiers. Then, active ingredients, solvents, moisturizers, texturers, emollients, gelling agents, antioxidants, chelating agents, fillers, preservatives, fragrances, dyes, pigments, sunscreens, etc., are added. All these ingredients are essential for sensory experience (i.e., the product's pleasantness and perception, color, odor, overall stability, its protective effect over time, and its immediate and long-term cosmetic effects).

[0005] However, recent studies have shown that some of these ingredients are useless or even harmful to the skin, sometimes causing irritation, allergies, or even endocrine disruption. Skin and scalp are living and permeable membranes. Therefore, there is a risk that some molecules can enter them, alter them, or even enter the subcutaneous bloodstream. Regulations, particularly in Europe, have recently attempted to ban or reduce the use of some of these ingredients, whose associated risks have been proven or suspected. Moreover, in recent years, consumers have become increasingly wary of the ingredients in the products they buy. More and more ingredients are being questioned, sometimes in controversial ways, which have garnered media attention, regardless of whether they are conventionally used. Therefore, petrochemical ingredients (such as paraffin or petrolatum) are considered harmful to the environment. However, they are still widely used in cosmetics because they create a protective layer on the skin. They also add thickness and texture to the compositions in which they are introduced and give them pleasant sensory properties.

[0006] Extracts Mintel n° 9882210 and Mintel n° 8424973 in the GNPD database and document WO2016 / 051086 describe paraffin-free cosmetic compositions for skin care in emulsion form. These compositions comprise an aqueous phase (containing at least one aqueous emollient) and an oily emollient system (containing safflower oil, the amount of which is less than or equal to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the system). None of these compositions are indicated for the treatment of inflammatory skin diseases.

[0007] Generally, the present invention aims to provide dermatological or skin cosmetic compositions in emulsion form that are skin-friendly, particularly free of controversial substances (such as paraffin), while having at least as good sensory properties as prior art compositions containing such substances, and at a low cost.

[0008] More specifically, the present invention aims to provide a composition that can provide benefits for sensitive skin (e.g., atopic or atopic-susceptible skin) and, in particular, can effectively treat inflammatory skin diseases.

[0009] The skin is a protective layer covering the entire body. It is covered by a protective hydrolipidic film composed of a mixture of secretions such as sweat and sebum. The skin plays a vital protective role, and because it contains many tactile, thermal, and nociceptive receptors, it also serves as the interface between the body and its surrounding environment. The skin consists of three layers: the epidermis, the dermis, and the subcutaneous tissue (from the outside to the inside of the organism).

[0010] The epidermis is primarily composed of layered, spreading, keratinized epithelial cells. It is mainly composed of keratinocytes, which continuously proliferate and differentiate. The epidermis has four distinct layers, depending on the stage of differentiation of the keratinocytes that compose them: the basal layer (at its junction with the dermis), the spinous layer, the granular layer, and the cornea (also known as the stratum corneum, the layer in contact with the external environment). In this layer, keratinocytes tightly connected by a lipid matrix form a protective barrier, reinforced by a hydrolipidic film.

[0011] Skin conditions such as atopic dermatitis, pruritus, eczema, psoriasis, and rosacea are becoming increasingly common, especially in young children. Atopic dermatitis, in particular, is atopic skin manifestation. It is a chronic inflammatory skin disease that occurs on genetically determined terrain. It is now considered a major public health problem because the quality of life of those affected is severely disrupted. This condition most commonly occurs in early childhood and is characterized by recurrent rashes over several years, progressing in a sudden manner interspersed with spontaneous remissions. In atopic dermatitis, the skin's barrier function is weakened and impaired, which promotes the growth of pathogens such as bacteria or viruses, especially Staphylococcus aureus (S. aureus). Staphylococcus aureus The invasion and colonization of bacteria, particularly those found to be dominant among symbiotic bacteria on the skin, are also known to occur there.

[0012] In the context of this skin condition, maintaining or even improving the skin's barrier function has proven important, especially for the most sensitive skin, and even atopic or atopic-prone skin. Atopic-prone skin is an extremely fragile skin type. It is characterized by alterations to the epidermal barrier, which makes dry skin more susceptible to external aggressors and prone to allergies, making it particularly sensitive to allergens. Summary of the Invention

[0013] Surprisingly, the inventors have discovered that dermatological or skin cosmetic compositions in the form of emulsions with specific compositions, rich in oily emollients, particularly safflower oil, and free of paraffin (INCI name: paraffinum liquidum), meet the objectives set forth in this invention and are particularly suitable for application to sensitive and even atopic skin, especially due to their ability to prevent the reduction of epidermal barrier function and / or enhance that barrier function.

[0014] Therefore, according to a first aspect, the present invention provides a dermatological or cosmetic composition specifically designed to treat inflammatory skin diseases or inflammatory dermatitis by topical application to any type of skin, particularly sensitive skin, and even atopic skin. The composition is in emulsion form and comprises: - An aqueous phase containing at least one emollient selected from polyols, more specifically from glycerin and its derivatives and glycols and their derivatives. - and an oil phase containing an oily emollient system, said oily emollient system comprising safflower oil and a second oily emollient. The composition comprises, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition: - At least 50% by weight water, - The aqueous phase contains a total of 10% to 20% by weight of emollients. - 10% to 25% by weight of the oily emollient system, of which 8% to 18% by weight is safflower oil, and the safflower oil accounts for more than 70% of the weight of the oily emollient system.

[0015] In addition, the composition does not contain paraffin, and preferably does not contain petrolatum.

[0016] In this specification, "8 to 18% is safflower oil" should be understood as meaning that the composition contains 8% to 18% by weight of safflower oil relative to the total weight of the composition. Since the concentration of the entire oily emollient system in the composition is between 10% and 25% by weight, the components other than safflower oil in this oily emollient system together account for a maximum of about 7% by weight of the composition. Their total concentration varies both depending on the safflower oil content in the oily emollient system and the safflower oil content in the composition itself.

[0017] As described above, the compositions according to the invention, although paraffin-free, advantageously possess at least as good sensory properties as paraffin-based compositions, and also have equally (if not better) nourishing and repairing effects on the skin. In particular, it is especially effective in improving the skin's barrier function. Specifically, the inventors have discovered that the compositions according to the invention respect and even enhance the stratum corneum (…). stratum corneum It organizes the lipid matrix of the stratum corneum and stimulates the synthesis of endogenous ceramides within the stratum corneum.

[0018] Although intercellular lipids constitute only 10% of the total mass of the stratum corneum, they play a major role in the skin's barrier function. For example, lipid removal leads to water loss through diffusion. The barrier function stems from the complex and specific structure of the keratinocyte intercellular lipid matrix, which is a mixture of ceramides, cholesterol, and long-chain fatty acids. Studies of epidermal ultrastructure using electron microscopy and diffraction techniques have shown that these lipids are organized in a stacked bilayer structure, primarily parallel to the skin surface. Some of these lipids are covalently bound to keratinocytes, while others are free lipids. Therefore, the increased organization of the stratum corneum's lipid matrix induced by topical application of the composition according to the invention can enhance the skin's lipid barrier.

[0019] In addition, approximately half of the intercellular lipids in the keratinocytes are composed of ceramides. Ceramides constitute a family of lipids of great biological importance because they are able to bind the stratum corneum, thereby forming the skin barrier.

[0020] Various ceramides form part of the lipid components of the stratum corneum. Biochemically, they are sphingolipids resulting from the amidation of sphingosine and fatty acids. They can be free or covalently bound to stratum corneum proteins. Currently, 14 classes of ceramides have been identified and named according to their chemical structures: ceramides can have a sphingosine (S), dihydrosphingosine (dS), phytosphingosine (P), or 6-hydroxysphingosine (H) base, bonded to an ω-hydroxy (EO or O), α-hydroxy (A), or non-hydroxy (N) fatty acid with a variable-length alkyl chain.

[0021] Ceramides play a crucial role in lamellar bilayer tissues, especially ultralong-chain esterified ceramides such as EOS, EOP, and EOH ceramides (Bouwstra et al., Biochim Biophys Acta 1996, 1300(3), 177-186). The importance of esterified ceramides in lamellar repeating distances and chain storage due to their very long carbon chains has been demonstrated (Kessner et al., Chem Phys Lipids, 2010, 163(1), 42-50). Furthermore, the polar heads carried by ceramides, particularly CEREOS and CER EOP, have a considerable influence on the structural properties required for functional lipid matrices.

[0022] Non-esterified ceramides are dominant and important for barrier function, as well as for skin hydration and nutrition. Studies have shown that dry skin during winter is associated with a decrease in total ceramide levels, and more specifically with a decrease in NP and NH ceramide levels (Ishikawa et al., J. Cosmet Dermatol 2013, 12(1), 3-11). In patients with atopic dermatitis, a significant decrease in total ceramide levels, and more specifically, a significant decrease in NP, NS, and NH ceramide levels, has also been reported, and this decrease is negatively correlated with measurements of insensitive water loss that indicate impaired barrier function (Ishikawa et al., J Invest Dermatol, 2010, 130(10), 2511-2514).

[0023] The reduction of ultra-long-chain esterified ceramides and the shortening of the chain lengths of free fatty acids and ceramides generally lead to a change in lipid tissue to a lower density state (Kessner et al., Skin Pharmacol Physiol 2008, 21(2), 58-74). This creates gaps in the lipid arrangement between keratinocytes, resulting in decreased skin barrier function and increased skin permeability. Therefore, the increase of these specific lipids induces an enhancement of skin barrier function. Advantageously, the compositions according to the invention induce this increase, acting on all ceramides, particularly ultra-long-chain esterified ceramides.

[0024] The compositions according to the invention may also have one or more of the features described below, which may be implemented individually or in any technically operable combination.

[0025] Preferably, the composition according to the invention contains at least 50% by weight, preferably at least 55% by weight, and more preferably at least 60% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0026] In a specific embodiment of the invention, the composition contains 50% to 70% by weight, preferably 55% to 70% by weight, and more preferably 60% to 70% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0027] The composition according to the invention is in the form of an emulsion, containing an aqueous phase and an oil phase, wherein one phase, the so-called dispersed phase, is uniformly dispersed in the other phase, the so-called continuous phase, in the form of fine droplets. The emulsion may be water-in-oil. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, wherein the oil phase remains uniformly dispersed in the aqueous phase.

[0028] The composition according to the invention preferably contains at least one consistency factor, which may be contained in an aqueous phase and / or an oil phase, and is more preferably contained in an oil phase.

[0029] The consistency factor or these consistency factors are preferably selected from fatty alcohols, fatty acids, hydrogenated vegetable oils and other waxes.

[0030] The compositions according to the invention may specifically contain, as a consistency factor: - At least one fatty alcohol, preferably C16-C22, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and / or behenyl alcohol; - and / or at least one fatty acid, preferably C16-C18, such as lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid; - and / or at least one hydrogenated vegetable oil, especially hydrogenated castor oil; - and / or at least one other waxy substance having a melting point of 45°C or higher, preferably strictly higher than 45°C, such as ethylene palmitate, plant waxes (e.g., carnauba wax, sunflower wax, jojoba wax), beeswax, or a mixture of tribehenin / dibehenate / behenate (substances with INCI names of Tribehenin / Glyceryl Dibehenate / Glyceryl behenate), which can be found in COMPRITOL® 888 commercial materials.

[0031] Preferably, the composition according to the invention contains only one consistency factor.

[0032] The total content of consistency factor in the composition is preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight, for example less than or equal to 4% by weight, and particularly less than or equal to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0033] In a specific embodiment of the invention, the consistency factor is present in a total content of 0.1% to 5% by weight, particularly 0.5% to 4% by weight, for example 1% to 4% by weight, or 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0034] In a specific embodiment of the present invention, the composition does not contain a foaming surfactant.

[0035] In a specific embodiment of the invention, it also does not contain an emulsifier. Instead, it must contain at least one consistency factor at a concentration sufficient to ensure that the composition is in the form of an emulsion.

[0036] In an alternative embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one emulsifier, particularly selected from emulsifiers capable of forming oil-in-water emulsions. For example, the emulsifier may be selected from ethoxylated fatty alcohols, products sold under the names Montanov® 68 (cetearyl alcohol (and) cetearyl glucoside) and Montanov® 82 (cetearyl alcohol (and) coconut oil-glucoside), cetyl phosphate, glucoside wax, glyceryl stearate citrate, lauryl glucoside, and polyglyceryl-2-dimeric hydroxystearate, particularly products sold under the name Eumulgin® VL75, lecithin, particularly hydrogenated soybean lecithin, glyceryl monostearate, sorbitan monostearate, sodium dilauroyl glutamine lysine, sodium stearoyl glutamate, particularly products sold under the name Eumulgin® SG, sodium stearoyl lactylate, sucrose stearate, etc.

[0037] In a specific embodiment of the invention, the emulsifier comprises at least a mixture of cetearyl alcohol / cetearyl glucoside, which is particularly available under the trade name MONTANOV® 68.

[0038] The compositions according to the invention may, for example, contain a mixture of cetearyl alcohol / cetearyl glucoside, glyceryl monostearate, and sodium stearoyl glutamate as emulsifiers.

[0039] In a specific embodiment of the invention, the emulsifier is present in a total content of 2% to 11% by weight, preferably 2% to 8% by weight, more preferably 2% to 7% by weight, even more preferably 2% to 6% by weight, particularly 2% to 5% by weight, for example 3% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Such a content advantageously allows for good stability and good sensory properties of the emulsion without excessive saponification, thereby avoiding skin whitening during application of the composition.

[0040] Preferably, the composition according to the invention contains no more than four, preferably no more than three, and for example no more than two, emulsifiers. In other specific embodiments, the composition according to the invention comprises a single emulsifier.

[0041] In this specification, the term emollient generally refers to a compound that, when applied topically, has epidermal hydration and softening properties.

[0042] The compositions according to the invention contain one or more emollients in their aqueous phase, wherein at least one is selected from polyols, more specifically from glycerin and its derivatives and glycols and their derivatives. Such or these emollients present in the aqueous phase are naturally soluble or miscible with water, and for convenience, the term "aqueous emollient" will be used herein.

[0043] According to the present invention, "polyol" (also called polyhydroxy alcohol) means a compound comprising a hydrocarbon chain having at least two carbon atoms and containing at least two hydroxyl groups. The polyols implemented according to the present invention are preferably diols or triols.

[0044] The polyols selected from glycerin and its derivatives and glycols and their derivatives that have emollient properties according to the present invention can be natural or synthetic. They can have straight-chain, branched-chain, or cyclic molecular structures.

[0045] Specifically, the polyols implemented according to the present invention may be selected from glycerin, diglyceride, polyglycerol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentanediol, hexanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol, and polyethylene glycol (particularly polyethylene glycol having 5 to 50 ethylene oxide groups). Alternatively or optionally, the compositions according to the present invention may contain erythritol, threitol, arabinitol, xylitol, ribitol, mannitol, sorbitol, galactitol, fucitol, idoterol, inositol, heptaheptanol, isomaltitol, maltitol, lactitol, maltotriol, maltotetratitol, polyols, and mixtures thereof as aqueous emollients.

[0046] Preferably, the aqueous emollient selected from polyols is glycerin.

[0047] The composition according to the invention contains a total of 10% to 20% by weight of an aqueous emollient relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular, it contains a total of 10% to 15% by weight, for example, 12% to 15% by weight of an aqueous emollient relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0048] The composition according to the invention comprises an oily emollient system, said oily emollient system comprising at least safflower ( Carthamus tinctoriusThe oil, as an oily emollient, is present in a content of at least 70% by weight relative to the weight of the oily emollient system, preferably between 70% and 99% by weight, for example between 70% and 95% by weight, and at least one second oily emollient. In particular, this high content of safflower oil (especially safflower seed oil) in the oily emollient system advantageously and surprisingly ensures good sensory properties of the composition, especially in terms of skin penetration rate, whereas compositions containing similar ingredients but in which safflower oil accounts for less than 70% by weight of the total weight of the oily emollient system do not have this sensory property. The high efficacy of this composition for skin barrier function is partly attributed to the combination of all the characteristics of the composition, namely, the combination of polyols selected from glycerin and its derivatives and diols and their derivatives, safflower oil, and the second oily emollient, and their respective contents in the composition.

[0049] The composition according to the invention contains 8% to 18% by weight, preferably 8% to 15% by weight, for example 9% to 14% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0050] The second oily emollient, and other emollients different from safflower oil that may be included in the oil phase, may be selected from: - Triglycerides. Triglycerides are formed by one molecule of glycerol linked to three fatty acid molecules via an ester bond. In particular, the triglycerides suitable for use in this invention can be selected from triglycerides esterified with C8-C18 fatty acids, especially C10-C18 fatty acids, and more particularly from caprylic / capric triglycerides; - Non-hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as sunflower seed oil, corn oil, olive oil, sweet almond oil, coconut oil, palm oil, soybean oil, pumpkin seed oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, almond oil, macadamia nut oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, borage oil, rapeseed oil, wheat germ oil, flaxseed oil, evening primrose oil, argan oil, and cotton calendula oil; - Solid fats with a melting point of less than or equal to 45°C, preferably strictly less than 45°C, such as vegetable fats, such as shea butter; - Synthetic esters and ethers, particularly esters and ethers of fatty acids, such as oils of the formula R1COOR2 and R1OR2, wherein R1 represents the remainder of a fatty acid containing 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a branched or unbranched hydrocarbon chain containing 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethylhexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucic acid, isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearate lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyl dodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearate malate, triisoceryl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates or decanoates of fatty alcohols, polyol esters such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate, and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythritol tetraisostearate or dipentaerythritol pentaisononanoate; - and its mixtures.

[0051] Within the meaning of this invention, the second oily emollient, like all oily emollients included in the oily emollient system except for safflower oil, is not a wax, which is characterized by a melting point greater than or equal to 45°C and usually greater than 45°C.

[0052] The oily emollient system is present in the composition at a content of 10% to 25% by weight, particularly 10% to 20% by weight, and for example 10% to 18% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0053] Preferably, the composition according to the invention, and more particularly its oily emollient system, contains fewer than six oily emollients, including safflower oil. It preferably contains fewer than five oily emollients, more preferably fewer than four, and more preferably fewer than three.

[0054] Therefore, in specific embodiments of the present invention, the composition contains exactly five, four, three, or two oily emollients, with safflower oil included in these quantities. Lower quantities of oily emollients are associated with a lower risk of skin irritation caused by the composition according to the present invention.

[0055] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition, a total of 0.5% to 7% by weight, more preferably 0.5% to 5% by weight, and even more preferably 1% to 4% by weight of an oily emollient other than safflower oil. For example, relative to the total weight of the composition, it may contain 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably 1% to 4% by weight of triglycerides (such as caprylic / capric triglycerides) or ethylhexyl palmitate, or a mixture of triglycerides (such as caprylic / capric triglycerides) and shea butter in a proportion of 2% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0056] The compositions according to the invention may also contain any additives that are conventionally used in dermatological or skin cosmetic compositions and, like all other components of the compositions according to the invention, are dermatologically and / or skin cosmetic acceptable. It should be understood here that these components, in their conventional manner, are suitable for use through contact with human and animal skin cells and do not produce unacceptable discomfort that could cause the user to deviate from the composition.

[0057] In particular, the compositions according to the invention may contain one or more gelling agents and / or thickeners, such as those selected from alginate, carrageenan, cellulose and its derivatives, starch, xanthan gum, stearin gum, succinyl dextran gum, gellan gum, zein gum, gum arabic, and argan oil. Caesalpinia spinosa ) glue, carob glue, tamarind ( Tamarindus indica Seed gum, acrylates and their mixtures.

[0058] Gelling agents and / or thickeners, such as xanthan gum, may be included in the composition, for example, in an amount between 0.1% and 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0059] The compositions according to the invention are preferably silicone-free. In the context of the invention, silicone or polysiloxane conventionally refers to any organosilicon polymer or oligomer having a linear and / or cyclic, branched and / or crosslinked structure, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of functionalized silanes, and substantially composed of repeating principal units, wherein silicon atoms are linked to each other by oxygen atoms, and hydrocarbon groups (which may be substituted, particularly by hydroxyl groups) are directly linked to these silicon atoms by carbon atoms.

[0060] The cosmetic compositions according to the invention are preferably free of phenoxyethanol, which is suspected of being an endocrine disruptor.

[0061] Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are free of alpha-hydroxy acids or AHAs (alpha-hydroxy acids). These are carboxylic acids, primarily derived from fructose. The main fruit acids are lactic acid, malic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, and tartaric acid. AHAs promote skin exfoliation, and therefore are best avoided in compositions intended for use on atopic or atopic-susceptible skin. Indeed, atopic-susceptible skin is an extremely fragile skin type. It is characterized by alterations to the epidermal barrier, leading to dry skin that is more susceptible to external aggressors and has an allergic tendency, making it particularly sensitive to allergens. Atopic skin is more specifically referred to as atopic dermatitis.

[0062] Preferably, all substances with exfoliating properties, such as retinoids, are also avoided in the compositions according to the invention.

[0063] The compositions according to the present invention may contain one or more preservatives, or may not contain any preservatives.

[0064] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition is preservative-free. The polyol constituting it is then specifically selected from polyols without preservative activity. In such embodiments, the composition according to the invention is preferably sterile, particularly according to EN 556 and the European Pharmacopoeia, having a sterility level obtained at a sterilization value F0 = 22 minutes. A method for sterilizing emulsions is specifically described in document WO 2013 / 007755, which achieves such a sterility level without destabilizing them.

[0065] The compositions according to the invention may, for example, be free of the following components: benzoic acid, 2-hydroxybenzoic acid, sorbic acid, benzyl alcohol, ethanol, phenethyl alcohol, sodium benzoate, cetrimonium bromide, lauroyl arginine ethyl ester hydrochloride, chlorobutanol, chlorophenylglycerol ether, benzalkonium chloride, diazoalkyl urea, chlorhexidine digluconate, ethyl p-hydroxybenzoate, glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl monocaprylate, imidazoalkyl urea, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, and methylisothiazoline. Ketones, methylparaben, octoxyglycerol, o-phenylphenol, butylparaben, methylparaben, sodium methylparaben, propylparaben, sodium propylparaben, phenoxyethanol, phenoxyethanol paraben, piroctone ketone ethanolamine salt, potassium sorbate, sodium propionate, propylparaben, zinc pyrithione, salicylic acid, sodium dehydroacetate, potassium sorbate, sorbic acid, trichlorohydroxydiphenyl ether.

[0066] The compositions according to the invention may also contain at least one preservative selected from those conventional in the fields of dermatology or skin cosmetics, such as those listed above.

[0067] In a specific embodiment of the invention, the composition does not contain essential oils. In fact, most essential oils contain allergens, which are sources of irritation and skin intolerance. For similar reasons, it is also preferable to avoid using dyes with the same characteristics.

[0068] In a specific embodiment of the invention, the composition does not contain ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA). Alternatively, it may contain such an acid.

[0069] The compositions according to the invention can be in any conventional form suitable for topical application to the skin and mucous membranes. In particular, but not limited to, they can be in the form of fluid emulsions, rich emulsions, creams, lotions, serums, ointments, or balms.

[0070] It can be a liquid or semi-liquid consistency, or a soft, semi-solid or solid consistency, or a microemulsion type. Advantageously, changing the proportions of its components allows for obtaining very different viscosities and flowability as needed.

[0071] The compositions according to the invention can be intended for application to the skin of the face and / or body.

[0072] For example, it can be in the form of a cream or balm for protecting, treating or caring for the face, hands and / or body, or in the form of a body lotion for protecting, treating or caring for.

[0073] For example, it can be a spray-on type, especially used in sunscreen products or lotions.

[0074] Packaging devices for the compositions according to the present invention may be airless tubes with pumps, Precitube tubes, sprayers, roller applicators, or airless cans, etc.

[0075] The compositions according to the invention do not contain any skin cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients in their basic formulation and have beneficial effects on skin suffering from inflammatory skin diseases such as atopic dermatitis.

[0076] It may also contain one or more skin cosmetic active ingredients. Each such active ingredient may consist of any active ingredient with dermatological, cosmetic, or skin cosmetic properties. It may be selected from natural products, especially plant extracts, extracts derived from biotechnology, such as plant cell or microalgae cultures, chemicals or metabiotics, or any combination thereof.

[0077] The term "metasec" as used herein refers to a mixture of factors, products, or metabolites secreted by or released by living microorganisms (most commonly bacteria) upon lysis of said microorganisms. Specifically, metagenes comprise a variety of components, such as enzymes, polypeptides, teichoic acid, cell wall peptides derived from peptidoglycan, polysaccharides, lipoproteins, cell surface proteins, and organic acids. Therefore, metagenes correspond to a mixture of molecules derived from the cultivation process of probiotics (bacteria and / or yeast), and more broadly to all more or less soluble metabolic factors, products, or byproducts secreted by microorganisms and subsequently excreted or released into the matrix upon their lysis. Typically, the exact composition of a metagenec is not precisely determined but depends on the microorganism, culture conditions, and lysis and purification conditions.

[0078] The specific metabiotics that can be implemented in this invention can be extracts derived from microbial (especially bacterial) culture and / or lysis.

[0079] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the active ingredient in the skin cosmetic (when present) is an epigenetic and is derived from bacteria belonging to the Proteobacterium group (…). Proteobacteria ) class, especially β-proteobacteria ( Betaproteobacteria Bacterial extracts from bacteria belonging to the class Neisseria. Preferably, the bacterial extracts are derived from bacteria belonging to the class Neisseria. Neisseriaceae The bacteria of the subfamily LMB 64. Even more preferably, the metabiotic is a bacterial extract from a bacterium named LMB 64 (or one of its mutants), which was deposited with CNCM (French National Center for Microbiology, Pasteur Institute, 25 Rue du Roux, 15th arrondissement, Paris, 75724) on April 8, 2010, under reference number CNCM I-4290 and described in patent application WO 2012 / 085182.

[0080] Therefore, in a specific embodiment of the invention, the composition contains one of the non-pathogenic bacteria of the Neisseriaceae family (deposited in the CNCM, CNCM number I-4290) or its mutants, which are active ingredients in skin cosmetics, and / or a bacterial extract obtained from a suspension of such bacteria or one of its mutants. This extract consists of membrane proteins, particularly porins, OmpA, lipopolysaccharides and / or lipoproteins, lipopolysaccharides, periplasmins, protein fragments from flagella, and primary and secondary metabolites produced by the bacteria. It may particularly contain an ESO fraction, which can be obtained as a clear ESO solution by incubating the bacterial culture medium in an alkaline medium (pH 9 to 11) at 4°C for approximately 5 hours, centrifuging, and filtering with a 0.2 μm filter. Specifically, it may contain three main bands corresponding to molecular weights in the ranges between 30 kDa and 36 kDa, between 41 kDa and 45 kDa, and between 47 kDa and 51 kDa, respectively.

[0081] For example, the concentration of the skin cosmetic active ingredient in the composition according to the invention can be between 0.01% by weight and 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0082] The compositions according to the invention can be prepared by any method known to those skilled in the art.

[0083] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the odor of the composition is the odor of its own components, and it does not contain any additional odor substances.

[0084] Another aspect of the invention relates to the use of a dermatological or skin cosmetic composition according to the invention (preferably an embodiment containing a skin cosmetic active ingredient) for the treatment of inflammatory skin diseases.

[0085] This inflammatory skin condition can be atopic dermatitis, pruritus, eczema, psoriasis, or rosacea. Preferably, it is atopic dermatitis.

[0086] In this instruction manual, "treatment" should be understood as the prevention or partial prevention of one or more symptoms of the disease, and / or the partial or complete cure of the disease, and / or the complete or partial disappearance of one or more symptoms.

[0087] The compositions according to the invention can be administered to any subject in need, i.e., a subject affected by or potentially affected by an inflammatory skin condition. Such a subject may in particular be a mammal, especially a human.

[0088] It is preferred to apply topically to the desired skin area, particularly the face and / or body area, especially to sensitive or intolerant skin (e.g., from atopic dermatitis), and especially to atopic or atopic-susceptible skin.

[0089] The compositions according to the invention are preferably administered to subjects in a therapeutically effective amount. "Therapeutically effective amount" means the amount of composition sufficient to provide treatment for a disease when administered to a subject.

[0090] The dosage can be applied, for example, once a day or twice a day (e.g., in the morning and evening), and the application period can be, for example, between one week and two months (or longer).

[0091] The therapeutic effects of the compositions according to the invention on inflammatory skin diseases are exerted, in particular, by preventing the reduction of epidermal barrier function and / or enhancing its function. Therefore, the compositions according to the invention can be used to prevent the reduction of epidermal barrier function and / or enhance epidermal barrier function, and are particularly suitable for atopic or atopic-susceptible skin.

[0092] The present invention can also be described as a method for therapeutic treatment of a subject suffering from or potentially suffering from an inflammatory skin disease, the method comprising the step of topically applying a therapeutically effective amount of the composition according to the invention to a skin area of ​​the subject in need, preferably containing a skin cosmetic active ingredient in its embodiments. This method can satisfy one or more of the features described above regarding the use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention for the treatment of inflammatory skin diseases.

[0093] The present invention also relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of the compositions according to the invention for the care of skin, particularly facial and / or body skin. This use particularly benefits from the nutritional effects of the compositions according to the invention and their effects on improving skin hydration and texture, as well as its overall barrier function. Therefore, the present invention also relates to a method of non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment of the skin of a subject (particularly a mammal, especially a human), comprising applying the compositions according to the invention to the skin, particularly to improve its moisture state and / or texture.

[0094] The compositions according to the invention can be applied topically in effective amounts to skin areas of the relevant individual, particularly healthy skin areas, i.e., skin areas without pathological conditions. In specific embodiments of the invention, the compositions may then be free of skin cosmetic active ingredients. The skin area may be, for example, dry skin, tight skin, or sensitive skin, but not atopic skin or skin with atopic predisposition.

[0095] The dosage of the composition according to the invention may be, for example, once a day or twice a day (e.g., morning and evening), and the application cycle may be, for example, between 1 week and 2 months (or longer).

[0096] Typically, in the context of their therapeutic and cosmetic uses, the compositions according to the invention provide all-day comfortable protection. They can be applied particularly to sensitive skin, reactive skin, and especially to infant skin.

[0097] Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are used to protect and / or treat sensitive skin. Sensitive skin is defined by a specific skin reactivity. This skin reactivity is typically reflected by signs of discomfort exhibited by a subject upon contact with triggers that may originate from different sources. Triggers may include the application of certain cosmetics to the surface of sensitive skin, ingestion of certain foods, exposure to sudden temperature changes, air pollution, and / or ultraviolet or infrared radiation. There are also factors related to age and skin type. Therefore, sensitive skin is more common in dry or oily skin than in normal skin. Within the meaning of this invention, sensitive skin includes irritated skin and intolerant skin. Attached Figure Description

[0098] According to the following exemplary implementation scheme, and supplemented by Figures 1 to 4 The features and advantages of the present invention will become clearer from the description, and the exemplary embodiments described are for illustrative purposes only and do not limit the invention in any way, wherein: Figure 1 X-ray diffraction patterns obtained on untreated stratum corneum samples are shown (WAXS signal in a / , SAXS signal in b / ).

[0099] Figure 2 X-ray diffraction patterns (WAXS signal in a / , SAXS signal in b / ) are shown on a stratum corneum sample treated with composition C1 according to the invention.

[0100] Figure 3 X-ray diffraction patterns (WAXS signal in a / , SAXS signal in b / ) are shown on stratum corneum samples treated with the composition Comp1 which does not conform to the present invention.

[0101] Figure 4 Sensory analysis curves of composition C1 according to the invention and a comparative composition Comp1 that does not conform to the invention, applied to the skin at 5 minutes and 15 minutes, are shown, evaluated by a panel of 15 members. Detailed Implementation

[0102] A / Example 1 - Composition according to the present invention The cream form of composition C1 according to the invention has the formulation shown in Table 1.

[0103] Table 1 - Composition C1 The balm-like composition C2 according to the invention has the formulation shown in Table 2, provided that safflower seed oil accounts for at least 70% by weight of the mixture of safflower seed oil, caprylic / capric triglycerides and shea butter.

[0104] Table 2 - Composition C2 B / Example 2 - Effects of different oily emollients on perceived sensory qualities The purpose of this study was to compare the sensory characteristics of various compositions. These were evaluated by personnel trained in cosmetic sensory techniques to determine whether their sensory properties were satisfactory, more specifically based on criteria such as whether they had an oily appearance, the speed of penetration into the skin, and film-forming effects. The appearance of the emulsions was also examined under a microscope.

[0105] The various compositions tested are detailed in Table 3 (compositions Comp2, Comp3 and Comp4 do not conform to the present invention because they contain a single oily emollient, or a mixture of oily emollients containing less than 70% by weight of safflower seed oil, and compositions C3 and C4 according to the present invention).

[0106] Table 3 - Test Compositions For this experiment, 0.1 ml of each of the test compositions was applied to the back of the hand.

[0107] The results are shown in Table 4 below.

[0108] Table 4: Sensory properties of the tested compositions Observations showed that only compositions C3 and C4, which contain two oily emollients, including safflower oil, and in which safflower oil accounts for more than 70% by weight (more specifically more than 83% by weight) of all oily emollients, exhibited satisfactory sensory properties. Composition Comp4, which contains a mixture of safflower oil and triglycerides (in which safflower oil accounts for only 50% by weight of the mixture), did not exhibit satisfactory sensory properties, particularly regarding its insufficient skin penetration.

[0109] In compositions C3 and C4 according to the invention, both are considered satisfactory and have equivalent sensory properties, with C3 (where the second oily emollient is of the triglyceride type) being preferred, having a less rough appearance under a microscope and a lower risk of temperature instability.

[0110] C / Example 3 - X-ray diffraction analysis of the effect of cosmetic composition on stratum corneum lipid tissue The purpose of this study is to characterize the effects of two cosmetic compositions on the stratum corneum: composition C1 as described in Example 1 of the present invention and a comparative composition Comp1 that does not conform to the present invention (which specifically contains paraffin and satisfies the formulation shown in Table 5). Table 5 - Comparative Composition Comp1 The technique used to analyze lipid tissue in the stratum corneum is X-ray diffraction. The experiment was performed on the stratum corneum (SC) separated from the abdomen.

[0111] X-ray diffraction provides information on the ordered or partially ordered arrangement of atoms, molecules, or macromolecules. In particular, this technique enables the study of the organization of lipids and proteins in the skin (more specifically, the stratum corneum). A key feature of this technique is its ability to characterize and compare the effects of compositions applied to the stratum corneum.

[0112] A stratum corneum sample (anatomical location: abdomen) was provided by Novitom. It will be measured as 0.75 × 1.5 cm. 2 A sheet of stratum corneum is placed on a polymer substrate, which is selected to be sufficiently adhesive to prevent migration of the stratum corneum during application of the composition, while also allowing for separation without any damage after treatment. Approximately 5 mg / cm² is applied using a spatula. 2 Each composition was used to treat the outer surface of the sample. The composition covered the entire sample. Approximately 45 minutes after application, the sample was folded at least four times to double the amount of cuticle sheets in the X-ray beam. X-ray diffraction analysis was performed 3 hours after application. Untreated control samples were also analyzed.

[0113] X-ray diffraction experiments were performed using an X-ray diffractometer configured with a SOLEIL Proxima 2 synchrotron radiation beamline. This configuration is particularly suitable for detecting SAXS / WAXS signals. The parameters used are given in Table 6 below.

[0114] Table 6 - Parameters of X-ray diffraction analysis In this configuration, the diffraction signal of the stratum corneum is integrated over the entire thickness of the laminate.

[0115] For data acquisition, diffraction patterns between 120 and 180 were acquired for each sample. The exposure time for each point was 20 ms.

[0116] Data were processed using ESRF FIT2D software. The background model (air diffraction) was subtracted from the diffraction models of all samples.

[0117] The obtained results (wide-angle X-ray diffraction (WAXS) and small-angle X-ray diffraction (SAXS) signals of the outer surface, inner surface, and interior of the sample, respectively) are as follows: Figure 1 As shown (control sample), Figure 2 As shown (sample treated with composition C1), such as Figure 3 As shown (sample treated with Comp1).

[0118] The intensity curves presented correspond to the angle curves integrated on the meridian (SAXS curve) and the equatorial curve (WAXS curve). The WAXS curves are normalized for easier comparison (intensity and peak position).

[0119] Typically, the WAXS signal provides information about the crystalline organization of lipids within layers. The broadest bands originate from the fluid portion of intercellular lipids, while sharp peaks arise from hexagonal or orthorhombic crystalline structures. The strongest peak at approximately 4.1 Å is due to both of these structures, while the peak at approximately 3.7 Å is characteristic of orthorhombic structures. A broad peak at 9.5 Å is generated by intermediate keratin filaments, reflecting variations in cell size. The stronger and clearer the reflection, the more ordered the lipids. The SAXS signal provides information about the stacking of intercellular lipids, such as the number of layers. The resulting X-ray diffraction model shows a series of peaks at approximately 125 Å, 62 Å, 45 Å, and 33 Å, indicating the quality of the layered stacking.

[0120] For the control sample, all of these peaks were visible in Figure 1 middle.

[0121] The results obtained by treating the sample with composition C1 according to the invention are shown in Figure 2The signals were obtained at the inner, interior, and outer surfaces of the sample, as well as its surface components. The WAXS signal showed two fine peaks at 4.15 Å and 3.76 Å, typical of lipid chains in hexagonal and orthogonal structures. In SAXS, the signal changed on the outer and interior surfaces of the stratum corneum, with peaks detected at 58 Å and 64 Å, respectively. These peaks are likely due to the crystallization of composition C1 within the layered stacked stratum corneum. We noted that on the outer surface, the position of this additional peak coincided with the position of the peak characterizing the surface components. Composition C1 entering the stratum corneum likely forms “pure” domains and generates new layered systems on the outer surface (where it is located). Additional loops were detected at 49 Å and 65 Å on the outer surface of the stratum corneum, likely due to the crystallization of composition C1 or its interaction with the stratum corneum. Near the inner surface of the stratum corneum, we observed that the main peak did not shift at 61.5 Å, but its intensity decreased near 44.5 Å, and the weak peak at 31.5 Å shifted. Therefore, composition C1 appears to partially alter the lamellar structure.

[0122] In summary, the composition C1 according to the invention penetrates the entire thickness of the stratum corneum and may form “pure” structural domains therein. It interacts with the stratum corneum to produce new layered structural domains. It also appears to alter the layered organization of physiological lipids near the inner surface of the stratum corneum and slightly increase the relative amount of crystalline lipids in the orthogonal network.

[0123] Results obtained from samples treated with the composition Comp1 (containing paraffin), which does not conform to the present invention, show... Figure 3 The signals obtained (at the inner, internal, and outer surfaces of the sample, as well as its surface components) are similar to those obtained for composition C1. They indicate that composition Comp1 also penetrates the entire thickness of the stratum corneum and may interact with it to generate structural domains within the tissue in a novel layered system (different from the system observed in controls). Composition Comp1 may also alter the structure of physiological lipids by slightly increasing the size of the sheets and the relative amount of crystalline lipids in the orthogonal network.

[0124] The results of this experiment clearly demonstrate that the paraffin-free composition C1 increases the tissue structure of the lipid matrix of the stratum corneum, thereby enhancing the lipid barrier. This protective effect on the epidermal barrier is at least equivalent to the proven effect of the paraffin-containing composition Comp1.

[0125] D / Example 4 - Effect of cosmetic composition on the synthesis of total lipids and ceramides in a reconstructed epidermal model The quantification of ceramides indicates the integrity or incompleteness of the skin barrier function and provides value for skin cosmetics.

[0126] The purpose of this study is to evaluate the effects of two cosmetic compositions (composition C1 according to the invention as described in Example 1 and composition Comp1 which does not conform to the invention as described in Example 3) on the synthesis of skin lipids, particularly on the synthesis of ceramides, which are the main components of the stratum corneum from a lipid perspective, and to evaluate their nutritional effects for treating and improving barrier function.

[0127] The effects of the cosmetic composition were evaluated on three batches of reconstructed epidermis, with each batch tested under n = 3 (three replicates).

[0128] The model used in this study was a reconstructed epidermis model obtained by removing skin during cosmetic surgery according to the method described by Frankart et al. (Frankart et al., Exp. Dermatol. 2012, 21(11), 871-875).

[0129] Cells (keratinocytes) were isolated from the excised skin tissue and then seeded onto culture slides in a standard culture medium supplemented with ThermoFisher's EpiLife® Defined Growth Supplement. The culture slides were then placed at the air / liquid interface in a 37°C incubator under a humidified atmosphere of 5% CO2 to allow for keratinization. The culture medium was changed every 24 hours. After 14 days, the keratinized area was 0.6 cm². 2 Reconstructing the epidermis.

[0130] Three reconstructed epidermis were used for each condition. The test conditions were as follows: - Negative control: Phosphate-buffered saline (PBS) at pH 7.4 containing 0.01% Tween® 20; - Dilute composition C1 to 1% using phosphate-buffered saline (PBS) at pH 7.4 containing 0.01% Tween® 20; - Dilute composition Comp1 to 1% using phosphate-buffered saline (PBS) at pH 7.4 containing 0.01% Tween® 20; - Positive control: Commercially available Dexeryl® cream, based on glycerin, petrolatum and paraffin (Ingredients: glycerin, petrolatum, liquid paraffin, glyceryl monostearate, stearic acid, dimethicone, polyethylene glycol 600, triethanolamine, acrylamide / acryloyl-dimethyl taurate copolymer, isohexadecane, polysorbate, pentylene glycol, ethylhexylglycerin, carbomer, purified water).

[0131] On day 9 of the protocol, the test composition was applied topically at 2 mg / reconstructed epidermis, marking the first application to the reconstructed epidermis. A 24-hour incubation was performed. A second application was performed on day 10 (under the same conditions), followed by a 48-hour incubation. A third application was performed on day 13 (under the same conditions), followed by a 24-hour incubation. Finally, a fourth application was performed on day 14 on the fully reconstructed epithelium (under the same conditions), followed by a 24-hour incubation.

[0132] On day 15, the reconstructed epidermis was removed from the culture slide, and the stratum corneum was separated from the rest of the epidermis using trypsin. The stratum corneum was then extracted using an organic solvent (a mixture of chloroform and methanol) to collect the lipids that make up the stratum corneum. These lipids were then concentrated under liquid nitrogen prior to analysis.

[0133] Ceramides, free fatty acids, and cholesterol in the stratum corneum were analyzed by high-performance thin-layer chromatography (HPTLC), a rapid technique widely used to separate complex mixtures such as lipids (Fuchs et al., J. Chromatography A 2011, 1218(19), 2754-2774). The method used is as described in Jamin et al., Eur J Mass Spectrum, 2019, 25(3), 278-290. The analytical conditions are detailed below: - Plate: Lichrospher® HPTLC Silica gel 60 F254S; - Spotting: 6 mm wide, dried under nitrogen flow; - Expand: Gradient: See Table 7; - Post-derivative: copper sulfate aqueous solution (10% CuSO4, 8% H3PO4, 5% MeOH); - Detection: λ scan: 450 nm.

[0134] Table 7 - Gradients used for HPTLC analysis The results obtained indicate that the positive control (Dexeryl® cream) induced lipid synthesis as expected, and was associated with an increase in free fatty acids, cholesterol derivatives, and ceramides. These results validated the experimental conditions.

[0135] Compositions C1 and Comp1 had no effect on the synthesis of free fatty acids, but both induced a significant increase in total cholesterol.

[0136] Table 8 details the effect of the composition on the synthesis of total ceramides: Table 8 - Effect of test compositions on the synthesis of total ceramides in reconstructed epidermis - NS = Not significant It can be seen that only composition C1 according to the present invention significantly increases the synthesis of total ceramides.

[0137] The results lead to the conclusion that this paraffin-free composition provides important protection for the skin. In fact, ceramides, as the main lipids present in the stratum corneum, play a crucial role in barrier function, thus particularly limiting moisture loss and helping to retain moisture.

[0138] The effects of composition C1 on different specific subclasses of ceramides (Cer 5 AS and OH, Cer 9 EOP, Cer 10 NdS and 2NS, Cer 1 EOS) have been investigated in more detail. Table 9 below shows the percentage of these ceramides induced by administration of composition C1 relative to the negative control.

[0139] Table 9 - Percentage of ceramide production induced by composition C1 according to the invention relative to the control - Comparison by t-test, NS = not significant. Therefore, compared with the untreated reconstructed epidermis (negative control), composition C1 induced statistically significant synthesis of all ceramides in this reconstructed epidermal model.

[0140] Notably, the synthesis of Cer 5 AS and OH ceramides in the skin (known to be reduced in cases of eczema and atopic dermatitis) increased by more than 50%. Furthermore, the amount of ceramides involved in the lipid lamellar structure of the stratum corneum, namely ultra-long-chain esterified ceramides (such as Cer 9 EOP ceramide), increased significantly to over 180%. The amount of non-esterified ceramides (such as CER10NS and 2NS ceramides, which are among the major ceramides in the stratum corneum) also increased.

[0141] Increasing the total amount of ceramides, especially those that are key players in barrier function (such as NS and EOP ceramides), by applying paraffin-free compositions is highly beneficial for enhancing the epidermal barrier function.

[0142] E / Example 5 - Evaluation of the effects of two cosmetic compositions on skin barrier repair The purpose of this study is to demonstrate the restorative or protective effects of two cosmetic compositions on a pig ear skin model after stress with sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS): as described above, composition C1 according to the invention and composition Comp1 not conforming to the invention.

[0143] Indicatively, in this experiment, the dermal explants were subjected to 2 hours of SDS stress (10%) to disrupt their outermost layer. After rinsing, they were treated with 5 mg / cm³ of SDS. 2 The composition was applied topically. The explants were then incubated in supplemented fresh culture medium at 37°C for 16 hours. The potential repair effect was observed and quantified after incubation with fluorescein (Sigma, reference number L0144).

[0144] More specifically, two pig ears were used in this study. After scraping the skin to a thickness of 450 µm ± 50 µm, eight 10 mm samples were formed using a mold. The samples were then placed on inserts containing 1.1 ml of fresh viable medium (DMEM) and incubated at 37°C for 1 hour. The medium was then replaced with 1.1 ml of fresh viable medium.

[0145] Place an 8 mm diameter nylon mesh, add 8 μL of 10% SDS to the mesh, and incubate the explants at 37°C for 2 hours. Then, remove the mesh with small forceps and rinse the explants sequentially in three PBS (phosphate-buffered saline) baths for 10 seconds each. Remove excess culture medium by wiping the explant sections with a sterile dressing. Then change the survival medium. Dry the surface of the explants with a cotton swab before applying the composition.

[0146] Each of the two compositions was administered at 5 mg / cm². 2 The appropriate amount was applied topically to the explants using a cotton swab wrapped in a finger cot. The explants were then incubated for 16 hours at 37°C in supplemented fresh culture medium (MEM + gentamicin, 50 mg / ml, penicillin / streptomycin 5,000 U).

[0147] Then, a fluorescein (LY) permeability test was performed to quantify the thickness of damaged explants. A 1 mM fluorescein solution in PBS was prepared. 8 μL of this solution was deposited onto a new 8 mm mesh, and the explants were then incubated at 37°C for 2 hours. Afterward, the mesh was gently removed and a 6 mm biopsy was performed.

[0148] The biopsy tissue was then placed in an Eppendorf tube containing 1.8 ml of 4% PFA (paraformaldehyde) prepared in PBS and incubated at room temperature for 1 hour. The biopsy tissue was then rinsed in two consecutive PBS baths and dried on sections.

[0149] The biopsy tissue is introduced into a mold filled with a compound at the optimal cutting temperature (OCT), then frozen by immersion in isopentane cooled to -80°C using SnapFrost®, and stored at -80°C.

[0150] 8 µm frozen sections were prepared and observed directly under a fluorescence microscope. For each image, the penetration of LY through the stratum corneum was analyzed using Octopus software with the Histo-Fluo module: by measuring the average fluorescence intensity relative to the average surface area of ​​the stratum corneum.

[0151] The results obtained for each test condition (untreated control, explants treated with SDS, explants treated with SDS and by composition C1, and explants treated with SDS and by composition Comp1) are shown in Table 10.

[0152] Table 10 - Average fluorescence intensity relative to the average surface area of ​​the stratum corneum As expected, SDS caused significant damage to the dermal explants. Application of composition C1 or Comp1 effectively repaired the epidermis, as these values ​​were at the same levels as in the undamaged control group.

[0153] Therefore, the composition C1 according to the present invention has a barrier function repair effect at least equivalent to that of the paraffin-containing composition Comp1 in the prior art.

[0154] F / Example 6 - Sensory properties of compositions C1 and Comp1 As described above, a panel of 15 members trained in sensory methods for evaluating topical products conducted a univariate evaluation of the sensory properties of composition C1 according to the invention and comparative composition Comp1. For this purpose, 0.1 ml of each test composition was applied to each cheek.

[0155] Three evaluation stages were evaluated: - During application, - 5 minutes after application - 15 minutes after application.

[0156] During the test, the room temperature and humidity were checked, and the lighting was controlled.

[0157] The results are presented in Figure 4 In this study, composition C1 of the present invention was observed to have very good sensory properties, approaching those of composition Comp1 containing paraffin. Almost no significant differences were observed in the sensory properties of the two compositions. The composition according to the invention even provides better shine to the skin 5 minutes after application and has a less oily appearance 15 minutes after application. Notably, the composition according to the invention also feels softer 5 minutes after application and spreads better during application.

[0158] Therefore, the paraffin-free compositions according to the present invention have sensory properties that are completely equivalent to those of the paraffin-containing compositions, and even have some more favorable indicators.

Claims

1. A dermatological or dermocosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion comprising: - an aqueous phase comprising at least one emollient chosen from glycerol and derivatives thereof and glycols and derivatives thereof, - and an oily phase comprising an oily emollient system comprising safflower oil and a second oily emollient, The composition comprises at least 50% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, and is characterized in that, said composition comprising by weight relative to the total weight of the composition: - a total of 10 to 20% by weight of emollients comprised in the aqueous phase, - 10 to 25% by weight of the oily emollient system, 8 to 18% by weight being safflower oil, safflower oil representing more than 70% by weight of the oily emollient system, and the composition being free of paraffin.

2. The composition according to claim 1 comprising at least one consistency factor.

3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2 in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3 comprising an emulsifier.

5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the emollient chosen from glycerol and derivatives thereof and glycols and derivatives thereof is glycerol.

6. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the second oily emollient is chosen from triglycerides.

7. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6 comprising less than 6 oily emollients.

8. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7 in a form suitable for topical application.

9. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 comprising a dermocosmetic active ingredient.

10. Composition according to claim 9, wherein the skin cosmetic active ingredient is Neisseria sp. deposited at CNCM under the number CNCM 1-4290 Neisseriaceae of the genus Neisseria or one of its mutants, and / or a bacterial extract obtained from a suspension of such a bacterium or one of its mutants.

11. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10 for use in the treatment of an inflammatory skin disease.

12. The composition for use according to claim 11, according to which the inflammatory skin disease is atopic dermatitis, pruritus, eczema, psoriasis or rhagades.

13. The composition for use according to claim 11 or 12 for preventing a decrease in epidermal barrier function and / or for enhancing epidermal barrier function.

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