A cosmetic composition suitable for strengthening the skin's barrier function, comprising an extract of a non-photosynthetic, non-fruiting filamentous bacterium and an extract of wheat grain.

Abstract

Cosmetic composition suitable for strengthening the skin barrier function comprising an extract of non-photosynthetic non-fruiting filamentous bacteria and an extract of wheat grain. The present invention relates to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one extract of non-photosynthetic non-fruiting filamentous bacteria and at least one extract of wheat grain of the species Triticum Vulgare.It also relates to the use of said composition to improve and / or strengthen the skin barrier function as well as a cosmetic treatment process intended to improve and / or strengthen the barrier function and / or hydration and / or resistance to external aggressions of the skin and / or its appendages and characterized in that an effective quantity of an extract of a non-photosynthetic non-fruiting filamentous bacterium and an extract of wheat grain of the species Triticum Vulgare or of a composition comprising an extract of a non-photosynthetic non-fruiting filamentous bacterium, in particular an extract of Vitreoscilla filiformis and an extract of wheat grain of the species Triticum Vulgare, is applied to the skin and / or its appendages.

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition capable of strengthening the barrier function of the skin comprising an extract of non-photosynthetic, non-fruiting filamentous bacteria, and an extract of wheat grain Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of skin care and / or its appendages, and in particular to active ingredients capable of improving and / or strengthening the barrier function of the skin and / or its appendages, for a cosmetic application.

[0002] The subject of the invention is a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an extract of non-photosynthetic, non-fruiting filamentous bacteria, in particular an extract of Vitreoscilla filiformis and an extract of wheat grain of the species Triticum V ulgare. It thus finds use in hydrating the skin, in improving the suppleness of the skin, in improving and / or reducing the microrelief of the skin.

[0003] The skin is the body's first barrier to the external environment. Human skin is made up of several compartments, three of which cover the entire body, namely a superficial compartment, the epidermis, the dermis, and a deep compartment, the hypodermis.

[0004] The dermis provides the epidermis with a solid support. It is also its nourishing element. It is mainly composed of fibroblasts and an extracellular matrix composed mainly of collagen, elastin and a substance called ground substance, components synthesized by the fibroblast. It also contains leukocytes, mast cells and tissue macrophages. It also contains blood vessels and nerve fibers.

[0005] The epidermis is in contact with the external environment. The natural human epidermis is composed mainly of three types of cells which are keratinocytes, the vast majority, melanocytes and Langerhans cells. The cells constituting the epidermis are delimited by an intercellular lipid domain. Each of these cell types contributes by its own functions to the essential role played in the body by the skin. In particular, the keratinocytes undergo a continuous and oriented maturation process which, from the keratinocytes found in the basal layer of the epidermis, results in the formation of corneocytes, which are totally keratinized dead cells made up of keratinocytes at the terminal stage of their differentiation. During differentiation, the phospholipids whose role is to develop the fluid structure of the cell membranes of the layers living cells of the epidermis, are gradually replaced by a mixture composed mainly of fatty acids, cholesterol and sphingolipids (ceramides). These lipids, which are organized in specific lamellar liquid crystal phases, form the intracellular cement of the stratum corneum and are essential for water exchange and the barrier function of the epidermis. Thus, the lamellar structure of the lipids of the lipid domain of the epidermis and the corneocytes participate in the epidermal barrier function. The skin thus constitutes a barrier against external aggressions, in particular chemical, mechanical or infectious, and as such a certain number of defense reactions against environmental factors (climate, ultraviolet rays, tobacco, etc.) and / or xenobiotics, such as microorganisms, occur at its level.

[0006] This property, called "barrier function", is mainly ensured by the most superficial layer of the epidermis, namely the horny layer, called the stratum corneum.

[0007] The horny layer constitutes a real protective barrier against exogenous factors and endogenous water loss. Its good renewal as well as the quality of its structure are essential to ensure an effective barrier against the outside world and limit water loss which causes dehydration and dry skin.

[0008] It is clear that the quality and balance of the skin barrier and mucous membranes is dependent on complex endogenous biological mechanisms involving numerous growth factors, adhesion molecules, hormones and lipid metabolism enzymes. Thus, an alteration of the skin barrier can occur in the presence of external aggressions such as irritant agents (detergents, acids, bases, oxidants, reducers, concentrated solvents, toxic gases or fumes), mechanical stresses (friction, shocks, abrasion, tearing of the surface, projection of dust, particles, shaving or hair removal), thermal or climatic imbalances (cold, dryness, UV radiation), xenobiotics (undesirable microorganisms, allergens) or internal aggressions such as psychological stress.People more particularly affected by this alteration of the barrier function by external aggressions may be the following: people with so-called "fragile" or "delicate" and vulnerable skin which quickly becomes unbalanced during large variations in temperature or relative humidity (case of babies' skin for example); people with so-called "fragile" skin, including in particular people whose protective hydrolipidic film composed of sweat, sebum and natural hydration factors becomes scarce, as is the case for people aged over 60 and particularly in the context of old age (at least 75 years); people whose composition of the hydrolipidic film is modified, as is the case for people with diabetes, or on dialysis, or suffering from . of certain diseases; people who have a lowered reactivity threshold due to neurogenic hyperactivity; these skins will therefore present these sensations and clinical signs much more quickly and frequently than other skin types: these are people with sensitive skin. We can also talk about people with "attacked" skin for shaved skin, for example. An alteration of the skin barrier function can notably result in a hydration disorder, a loss of skin suppleness, an alteration of the complexion's radiance and the appearance of roughness on the skin. It is then appropriate to seek to increase epidermal differentiation to strengthen the skin's barrier function.In particular, we seek to improve and / or strengthen the skin barrier function in order to: alleviate hydration problems of the skin and / or its appendages, particularly the mucous membranes, and in particular treat dry skin, improve the suppleness of the skin, maintain and / or improve the radiance of the complexion, prevent and / or treat roughness or micro-relief of the skin which may manifest itself as chickenpox or acne marks.

[0009] The TGM1 gene (which can also be found designated by the symbol TGK) provides instructions for the manufacture of an enzyme called transglutaminase 1. This enzyme is present in the cells that make up the outermost layer of the skin (the epidermis).

[0010] Transglutaminase 1 is involved in the proper regulation of the stratum corneum and in particular in the formation of the horny cell envelope, a structure that surrounds skin cells and helps form a protective barrier between the body and the environment.

[0011] More specifically, transglutaminase 1 (TGM-1) forms strong bonds, called crosslinks, between the structural proteins that make up the horny cell envelope. This crosslinking provides strength and stability to the epidermis.

[0012] It is an enzyme expressed by cells in the upper living layers of the epidermis, and is an essential player in the formation of the horny envelope of cells, which helps to form a protective barrier against the environment. TGM-1 is involved in the anchoring of the various structural proteins that form the horny envelope.

[0013] Strengthening the quality of the epidermis by expressing TGM-1 helps maintain the functions of the epidermis and good hydration. Prior art

[0014] In order to strengthen the skin's barrier function, active ingredients have already been proposed which have an effect on the horny layer, helping to maintain the functions of the epidermis and good hydration, in particular by stimulating the abundance of TGM-1. Vitreoscilla Filliformis extract is particularly known for this action on the skin. Statement of the invention

[0015] There thus remains a need to strengthen the quality of the epidermis and in particular the barrier function of the epidermis. Summary of the invention

[0016] Thus, according to a first of its aspects, the present invention relates to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one extract of non-photosynthetic, non-fruiting filamentous bacteria, in particular an extract of Vitreoscilla filiformis and at least one extract of wheat grain of the species Triticum V ulgare.

[0017] The inventors have found, surprisingly, that the effectiveness of the wheat grain extract of the species Triticum V ulgare on epidermal differentiation and the formation of the horny envelope, by its action on increasing the expression of TGK, is increased by its association with an extract of non-photosynthetic, non-fruiting filamentous bacteria which results in an expression of TGK twice as strong as the wheat grain extract of the species Triticum V ulgare alone. Indeed, as is clear from the examples given below, a synergistic effect on the TGM-1 marker has been demonstrated.

[0018] Thus, the invention also relates, according to another of its aspects, to the cosmetic use of a composition as defined according to any one of the preceding claims, for improving and / or strengthening the barrier function of the skin.

[0019] A composition according to the invention is intended in particular for the cosmetic treatment of the skin and its appendages.

[0020] The invention also relates, according to another of its aspects, to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention, to improve and / or reinforce the protection of the skin against external aggressions.

[0021] The invention also relates to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention, to improve the hydration of the skin and / or its appendages.

[0022] The invention also relates to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention, for preventing and / or treating roughness or micro-relief of the skin and / or its appendages and / or for improving the radiance of the complexion and / or for improving the suppleness of the skin and / or its appendages.

[0023] Thus, the present invention also relates to a method for cosmetic treatment of the skin and / or its appendages, intended to improve the barrier function comprising at least one step consisting of applying to the skin at least one composition as defined above.

[0024] The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method intended to improve and / or strengthen the barrier function and / or hydration and / or resistance to external aggressions of the skin and / or its appendages and characterized in that an effective amount of an extract of non-photosynthetic, non-fruiting filamentous bacteria, in particular an extract of Vitreoscilla filiformis and an extract of wheat grain of the species Triticum V ulgare or a composition comprising an extract of non-photosynthetic, non-fruiting filamentous bacteria, in particular an extract of Vitreoscilla filiformis and an extract of wheat grain of the species Triticum V ulgare, is applied to the skin and / or its appendages.

[0025] It is understood that the cosmetic treatment methods referred to in the present application are non-therapeutic.

[0026] Thus, the invention also relates, according to another of its aspects, to a method for strengthening the barrier function of the skin and its appendages, comprising the application to the skin or its appendages of the composition as defined above.

[0027] Also, a composition according to the invention is intended in particular to be used for the care of the skin or its appendages.

[0028] Thus, the invention also relates, according to another of its aspects, to a method for caring for the skin and its appendages, comprising the application to the skin or its appendages of the composition as defined above.

[0029] The method according to the invention is in particular intended for people with dry skin regardless of the age and type of skin of the person and the origin of the dryness. According to another embodiment, said composition may be intended to improve and / or strengthen the barrier function of skin chosen from fragile skin, weakened skin, damaged skin and / or sensitive skin. In the context of the invention, the composition may be used for application to healthy skin, subjected or likely to be subjected to external aggressions as recalled above. In other particular cases, the composition of the invention may be applied to the skin when it shows clinical signs of skin barrier deficiency.

[0030] In the context of the present invention, and unless otherwise indicated, the following definitions apply:

[0031] By “skin and / or its appendages” is meant in particular the skin, mucous membranes, lips, scalp, eyelashes, eyebrows and hair.

[0032] By "effective quantity" is meant respective quantities of two active ingredients which allow the manifestation of the desired synergistic effect.

[0033] A composition according to the invention is generally suitable for application to the skin or its appendages, in particular topical application to the skin, and comprises therefore generally a physiologically acceptable environment, that is to say compatible with the skin.

[0034] It is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and does not generate unacceptable discomfort, that is to say tingling, tightness, redness, likely to discourage the user from applying this composition.

[0035] The expression “at least one” is equivalent to “one or more”.

[0036] The expressions “between ... and ...”, “includes from ... to ...”, “formed from ... to ...”, and “ranging from ... to ...” must be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified.

[0037] Other characteristics, variants and advantages of the compositions according to the invention will become more apparent on reading the description and examples which follow. Detailed description

[0038] Extracts of non-photosynthetic, non-fruiting filamentous bacteria

[0039] The bacterial extracts usable according to the invention are prepared from non-photosynthetic filamentous bacteria as defined according to the classification of Bergey's Manual of Systematic Bacteriology (vol. 3, sections 22 and 23, 9th edition, 1989), among which we can cite bacteria belonging to the order Beggiatoa, and more particularly bacteria belonging to the genera Beggiatoa, Vitreoscilla, Flexithrix or Leucothrix.

[0040] The bacteria which have just been defined and several of which have already been described generally have an aquatic habitat and can be found in particular in marine waters or in thermal waters. Among the bacteria which can be used, we can cite for example:

[0041] Vitreoscilla filiformis (ATCC 15551)

[0042] Vitreoscilla beggiatoids (ATCC 43181)

[0043] Beggiatoa alba (ATCC 33555)

[0044] Flexithrix dorotheae (ATCC 23163)

[0045] Leucothrix mucor (ATCC 25107)

[0046] Sphaerotilus natans (ATCC 13338).

[0047] Preferably, an extract of Vitreoscilla filiformis (ATCC 15551) will be used.

[0048] By “bacterial extract” according to the invention is meant an extract of bacterial biomass or any active fraction of said extract, in particular: i. bacterial cells isolated from the culture medium, which have been concentrated, for example by centrifugation (“unstabilized cell extract”); ii. concentrated bacterial cells (i), then subjected to an operation of breaking the envelopes of the bacterial cells, by any known means of the person skilled in the art, such as the action of ultrasound or preferably autoclaving (“stabilized cell extract”). By “envelopes” is meant the bacterial wall and possibly the underlying membranes; iii. the supernatant obtained by filtration of the stabilized cell extract (ii),

[0049] or any active fraction of said extract.

[0050] The bacterial extract as defined above (i), (ii) or (iii) also comprises, where appropriate, isolated culture medium used for the fermentation of said bacterium, initially separated during the concentration defined in (i) above. Said isolated culture medium can thus be added before or after the operations carried out in (ii) and (iii) above.

[0051] This active fraction can be obtained by conventional fractionation methods, such as extraction in the presence of a solvent, selective precipitation or tangential ultrafiltration (UFT) for example.

[0052] These extracts or fractions can be preserved for example by freezing said extracts or said fractions and used after thawing.

[0053] In the remainder of the description, we will speak more simply of “cellular extract” of bacteria ((i) and (ii)), of “supernatant” of said extract (iii) or of “active fraction”.

[0054] The extract of non-photosynthetic, non-fruiting filamentous bacteria that can be used in the composition used according to the invention is preferably chosen from a cell extract, the supernatant of said cell extract or an active fraction of said cell extract.

[0055] Preferably, the extract of non-photosynthetic, non-fruiting filamentous bacteria is an extract of Vitreoscilla filiformis, even more preferably a cellular extract of Vitreoscilla filiformis.

[0056] To prepare the bacterial extract according to the invention, said bacteria can be cultivated according to methods known to those skilled in the art, or reference can be made in particular to the description of patent application WO-A-94-02158. A cell extract is obtained from which the supernatant can be separated, for example, by filtration and centrifugation. The extract can be used in aqueous form or in lyophilized form. The protocol is described in more detail in Example 1 below. This bacterial extract can be refractionated and used pure or diluted to different concentrations.

[0057] The compositions according to the present invention may contain the extract of non-photosynthetic, non-fruiting filamentous bacteria in the form of a dispersion in a suitable vehicle such as, for example, water, organic solvents, fatty substances including oils, and mixtures thereof, in particular emulsions. The mass contents indicated below relate to said bacterial extract in dispersed form, in particular in dispersed form in water.

[0058] An extract of non-photosynthetic, non-fruiting filamentous bacteria, in particular Vitreoscilla filiformis extract, which can be used in the context of the present invention, is in particular available under the name Mexoryl SAH, marketed by the company Chimex (Noveal). This extract is an extract dispersed in water.

[0059] A composition according to the invention advantageously comprises a mass content of extract of non-photosynthetic, non-fruiting filamentous bacteria, in particular of extract of Vitreoscilla filiformis ranging from 0.02% to 5%, in particular from 0.05% to 4%, even more particularly from 0.08% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of dry extract of said composition, in particular from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight.

[0060] Wheat grain extract of the species Triticum Vulgare

[0061] The wheat grain plant extract in accordance with the invention comprises a mixture of phytosphingolipids and phytoglycoglycerolipids in a weight ratio of between 0.5 and 2, preferably between 1 and 1.8.

[0062] The plant extract of wheat grain in accordance with the invention comprises polar lipids derived from lipids called bound lipids because they are associated with the protein fraction of wheat.

[0063] Thus, before transformation into an extract in accordance with the invention, the protein mass contains 5 to 10% of bound lipids depending on the wheat varieties. Most of the bound lipids are in the form of lipid vesicles with a diameter of less than 300 nm, inserted into the protein network; a small proportion of the bound lipids is "adsorbed" to the surface of the protein network. These bound lipids are composed of 70% polar lipids.

[0064] Phytosphingolipids can exist in glycosylated form; they are called glycosylceramides or cerebrosides.

[0065] Phytoglycoglycerolipids include glycosyldiglycerides such as digalactosyl diglycerides (DGDG). Digalactosyl diglycerides are amphiphilic molecules, combining 2 fatty acids (omega) and 2 sugars (galactose). They are naturally present in wheat grains.

[0066] According to a particular embodiment, the wheat grain plant extract in accordance with the invention may comprise from 45 to 55% by weight of phytosphingolipids and glycosphingolipids; from 30 to 40% by weight of phytoglycoglycerolipids (including digalactosyl diglycerides); from 0 to 5% by weight of triglycerides; and from 10 to 20% by weight of phospholipids, relative to the total weight of the dry extract.

[0067] According to another particular embodiment, the plant extract of wheat grain in accordance with the invention may comprise from 10 to 20% by weight of phytosphingolipids and glycosphingolipids; from 10 to 20% by weight of phytoglycoglycerolipids (including digalactosyl diglycerides); from 50 to 65% by weight of triglycerides; and from 10 to 15% by weight of phospholipids, relative to the total weight of the dry extract.

[0068] According to yet another particular embodiment, the wheat grain plant extract in accordance with the invention may comprise from 4 to 9% by weight of phytosphingolipids and glycosphingolipids; from 5 to 10% by weight of phytoglycoglycerolipids (including digalactosyl diglycerides); from 75 to 85% by weight of triglycerides; and from 1 to 6% by weight of phospholipids, relative to the total weight of the dry extract.

[0069] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the wheat grain extract in accordance with the invention comprises at least 70% by weight, preferably at least 75% by weight or even 77% by weight of fatty acids, in particular omega 3, 6 and 9 fatty acids, relative to the total weight of the dry extract. These fatty acids are linked via ester bonds to other molecules present in the extract (therefore not free in the extract) and can therefore come from phytosphingolipids, glycosphingolipids, phytoglycoglycerolipids, triglycerides and / or phospholipids.

[0070] Among the wheat grain extracts in accordance with the invention, mention may in particular be made of wheat grain extracts of the species Triticum Vulgare which are in particular available under the name Ceramosides™ HP (INCI name: Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Seed Extract or Glycosphingolipids and Glycolipids; CAS 84012-44-2), marketed by the company SEPPIC.

[0071] According to a particular embodiment, the plant extract of cereals based on polar lipids in accordance with the invention is in the form of oil.

[0072] According to a particular embodiment, the polar lipid-based cereal plant extract in accordance with the invention is in powder form. Said powder may comprise from 1 to 5% of water, in particular less than 3% of water relative to the total weight of the powder. The contents indicated below designate the powder weight, optionally comprising this residual water fraction.

[0073] A composition according to the invention advantageously comprises a mass content of wheat grain extract of the species Triticum V ulgare ranging from 0.001% to 0.2%, in particular from 0.001% to 0.15%, even more particularly from 0.001% to 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of dry extract of said composition, in particular from 0.001% to 0.08% by weight.

[0074] According to one aspect of the invention, the mass ratio between the extract of wheat grain of the species Triticum V ulgare and the extract of non-photosynthetic, non-fruiting filamentous bacteria is between 1:150 and 1:1.5, in particular between 1:100 and 1:2. According to another embodiment, said mass ratio may be between 1:120 and 1:80 or between 1:1 and 1:2.5.

[0075] According to another aspect of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one extract of non-photosynthetic, non-fruiting filamentous bacteria, in particular an extract of Vitreoscilla filiformis and at least one extract of wheat grain of the species Triticum V ulgare, respectively at contents minimum contents of 0.02% by weight and 0.001% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular at minimum contents of 0.05% by weight and 0.008% by weight, and even more particularly at minimum contents of 0.1% by weight and 0.01% by weight. Composition

[0076] The combination of at least one extract of non-photosynthetic, non-fruiting filamentous bacteria, in particular at least one extract of Vitreoscilla filiformis and at least one extract of wheat grain of the species Triticum V ulgare in accordance with the invention is formulated for administration preferably by topical route.

[0077] A composition according to the invention is preferably a cosmetic composition, namely cosmetically acceptable in order to be applied to keratin materials, in particular human materials, without altering them.

[0078] It is also clear that the effective quantity of active ingredients corresponds to the quantity necessary to obtain the desired result, and that the formulation of the compositions according to the invention depends on the use for which these compositions are intended. In particular, two main categories of topical compositions according to the invention can be distinguished, depending on the conditions under which they will be applied to the skin. The first category corresponds to cosmetic compositions, that is to say intended to be applied to healthy skin in order to improve its appearance and in particular its comfort. Healthy skin is defined by the absence of pathologies such as infections, inflammation, erythema, or injuries such as a burn or a cut. However, in this definition, healthy skin does not mean skin in perfect condition.In particular, healthy skin may show signs of dryness which may be of exogenous origin (the skin becomes dry, for example, when exposed to dry and very cold air), or of endogenous physiological origin (for example, at the time of the hormonal drop linked to menopause).

[0079] The cosmetic composition is thus formulated to be applied to the skin and / or its appendages and comprises at least one extract of non-photosynthetic, non-fruiting filamentous bacteria, in particular at least one extract of Vitreoscilla filiformis and at least one extract of wheat grain of the species Triticum V ulgare, said composition making it possible to improve the barrier function.

[0080] According to the invention, the combination of at least one extract of non-photosynthetic, non-fruiting filamentous bacteria, in particular at least one extract of Vitreoscilla filiformis and at least one extract of wheat grain of the species Triticum V ulgare can also be used for the preparation of a therapeutic composition, more precisely dermatological, intended to improve the condition of damaged skin, of the skin type requiring repair and / or tissue regeneration at the level of the dermis, the epidermis and the dermo-epidermal junction.

[0081] The lesion in question may be of any origin, for example infectious, allergic, nervous or traumatic. A therapeutic composition may be applied directly to the injured area or in its vicinity. Thus, the invention also relates to the use of the combination of at least one extract of non-photosynthetic, non-fruiting filamentous bacteria, in particular at least one extract of Vitreoscilla filiformis and at least one extract of wheat grain of the species Triticum Vulgare for the preparation of a topical composition formulated for therapeutic use, for example on injured skin such as skin requiring tissue repair at the level of the dermis, the epidermis and the dermo-epidermal junction. The composition will then be formulated with a pharmaceutically acceptable vehicle.

[0082] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition has a pH close to that of the skin, between 4 and 7.

[0083] When applied topically, the composition according to the invention can be applied to the face, neck, scalp, mucous membranes and nails or any other skin area of ​​the body including the hands and feet.

[0084] By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant a medium compatible with the skin and / or its appendages or the materials and / or keratin fibers of human beings, such as, for example, but not limited to, the skin, mucous membranes, nails, scalp and / or hair. Such a medium does not generate any tingling, tightness or redness unacceptable to the user. This physiologically acceptable medium comprises water, optionally mixed or not with one or more organic solvents such as C1-C8 alcohols, in particular ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol, n-butanol, polyols such as glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol and polyol ethers.

[0085] The composition according to the invention can be presented in all the galenic forms conventionally used for topical application and in particular in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or hydroalcoholic solution or suspension or an oily solution or a solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type, an emulsion of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W) or vice versa (W / O), or a suspension or emulsion of soft consistency of the cream type (O / W) or (W / O), multiple emulsions (triple: W / O / W or H / W / O), or an aqueous or anhydrous gel, a cream-gel, an ointment, or any other cosmetic form.

[0086] Preferably, a composition according to the invention is in the form of a cream, a milk or a gel-cream.

[0087] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention is in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion or cream.

[0088] According to another embodiment, a composition according to the invention is in the form of a gel-cream.

[0089] The quantities of the various constituents of the compositions used according to the invention are those conventionally used in the fields considered. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods. In addition, the compositions used according to the invention may be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, a mousse. They may optionally be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol. They may also be in solid form, for example in the form of a stick.

[0090] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is in the form of a gel-cream. In particular, this gel-cream is characterized by the fact that it is obtained by combining the active ingredients with a homopolymer of a monomer containing a sulfonic group. More particularly, said gel contains from 0 to 1% of oil. The polymers comprising at least one monomer containing a sulfonic group, used in this type of transparent gel, are advantageously water-soluble or water-dispersible or swellable in water. The polymers used for this type of gel-cream are homopolymers capable of being obtained from at least one monomer containing ethylenic unsaturation and a sulfonic group, which may be in free form or partially or totally neutralized.Preferably, the polymers used for this type of transparent gel can be partially or totally neutralized by a mineral base (soda, potash, ammonia) or an organic base such as mono-, di- or triethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine, basic amino acids such as arginine and lysine, and mixtures of these compounds. They are generally neutralized. In the present invention, the term "neutralized" means polymers that are totally or practically totally neutralized, that is to say neutralized to at least 90%.

[0091] These polymers generally have a number average molecular weight ranging from 1000 to 20,000,000 g / mol, preferably ranging from 20,000 to 5,000,000 and more preferably still from 100,000 to 1,500,000 g / mol.

[0092] These polymers according to the invention can be crosslinked or not crosslinked.

[0093] The sulfonic group monomers of the polymer used in these transparent gels are chosen in particular from vinylsulfonic acid, styrenesulfonic acid, (meth)acrylamido-(Ci-C22)alkylsulfonic acids, N-(Ci-C22)alkyl-(meth)acrylamido-(Ci-C22)-alkylsulfonic acids such as undecyl-acrylamido-methane-sulfonic acid, as well as their partially or totally neutralized forms, and their mixtures. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the sulfonic group monomers are chosen from (meth)acrylamido-(Ci-C22)alkylsulfonic acids such as for example acrylamido-methane-sulfonic acid, acrylamidoethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamido-dodecylsulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulfonic acid, as well as their partially or fully neutralized forms, and mixtures thereof. More particularly, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) as well as its partially or fully neutralized forms are used. Other polymers suitable for this type of gel include the crosslinked and neutralized homopolymer of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, marketed by Clariant under the trade name “Hostacerin® AMPS” (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide, INCI name: Ammonium polyacryloyl dimethyl taurate).The homopolymer of monomer with a sulfonic group may be present in a gel-cream with an active ingredient content ranging, for example, from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.5 to 2% by weight, for example from 1 to 2%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0094] When the composition used according to the invention, whatever its nature, comprises an oily phase, this preferably contains at least one oil. It may also contain other fatty substances. Examples of oils that can be used in the composition of the invention include:

[0095] - hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene;

[0096] - hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides fatty acids containing 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado oils, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil;

[0097] - synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as oils of formulas R1COOR2 and R1OR2 in which RI represents the residue of a fatty acid containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or not, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as for example Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, fatty alcohol heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates;

[0098] - polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, diheptanoate neopentyl glycol and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate;

[0099] - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam oil;

[0100] - fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol or linoleyl alcohol;

[0101] - partially hydrocarbon and / or silicone fluorinated oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912;

[0102] - silicone oils such as volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) or non-linear or cyclic silicone chain, liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, pendant or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes;

[0103] - their mixtures.

[0104] In the list of oils cited above, the term "hydrocarbon oil" means any oil comprising mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly ester, ether, fluorine, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups.

[0105] Other fatty substances which may be present in the oily phase are, for example, fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-Cl-4-alkyldimethicone and trifluoropropyldimethicone; and silicone elastomers such as the products marketed under the names “KSG” by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names “Trefil”, “BY29” or “EPSX” by the company Dow Corning or under the names “Gransil” by the company Grant Industries.

[0106] These fatty substances can be chosen in a variety of ways by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the properties, for example of consistency or of texture, desired. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention is a water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion. The proportion of the oily phase of the emulsion can range from 5 to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0107] The emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or non-ionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture, and optionally a co-emulsifier. The emulsifiers are chosen appropriately according to the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W). The emulsifier and the co-emulsifier are generally present in the composition, in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.For W / O emulsions, examples of emulsifiers that may be mentioned are dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name "DC 5225 C" by the company Dow Corning, and alkyldimethicone copolyols such as Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" by the company Dow Corning and Cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Abil® EM 90 by the company Goldschmidt, or monosodium salts of glutamic acid and palm oil fatty acids, such as sold under the name Amisoft® HS 11 PF by the company Ajinomoto.

[0108] It is also possible to use as surfactant for W / O emulsions a crosslinked solid elastomeric organopolysiloxane comprising at least one oxyalkylenated group, such as those obtained according to the procedure of examples 3, 4 and 8 of document US-A-5,412,004 and the examples of document US-A-5,811,487, in particular the product of example 3 (synthesis example) of patent US-A-5,412,004. and such as that marketed under the reference KSG 21 by the company Shin Etsu. Other types of KSG marketed by the company Shin Etsu can also be used, such as KSG-16.For O / W emulsions, examples of emulsifiers that may be mentioned include non-ionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid and glycerol esters; oxyalkylenated sorbitan fatty acid esters; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) fatty acid esters; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) fatty alcohol ethers; sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; and mixtures thereof such as the mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-40 stearate. In a known manner, the cosmetic or dermatological composition of the invention may also contain adjuvants usual in the cosmetic or dermatological field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, preservatives, solvents, perfumes, fillers, UV filters, bactericides, odor absorbers, etc. coloring matters, plant extracts, salts, antioxidants, basic agents, acids, non-ionic, anionic, cationic surfactants.

[0109] The quantities of these different adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field considered, and for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase and / or into the lipid vesicles.

[0110] As fillers which may be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, in addition to pigments, of silica powder, a colloidal amorphous silica; talc; polyamide particles and in particular those sold under the name ORGASOL by the company Atochem; polyethylene powders; micro-spheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those made of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer sold by the company Dow Corning under the name POLYTRAP; expanded powders such as hollow microspheres and in particular, the microspheres marketed under the name EXPANCEL by the company Kemanord Plast or under the name MICROPEARL F 80 ED by the company Matsumoto; silicone resin microbeads such as those marketed under the name TOSPEARL by the company Toshiba Silicone; and mixtures thereof.

[0111] These fillers may be present in amounts ranging from 0 to 20% by weight and preferably from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0112] As hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, mention may be made in particular of carbopol, luvigel, Hostacerin AMPS, Simulgel, acrylamide gelling agents of the Sepigel type such as Sepigel 305® from Seppic, xanthan gum, guar gum, cellulose gum, alginates and their mixtures. Hectorites may also be mentioned.

[0113] The composition according to the invention may also comprise an emollient and / or a texturizing agent.

[0114] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition used according to the invention contains at least one UV filter (or sun filter) which may be a chemical filter or a physical filter or a mixture of such filters. Additional assets

[0115] The composition according to the invention may also contain other active agents, and in particular at least one compound chosen from: moisturizing agents; depigmenting agents; anti-aging / anti-wrinkle agents; agents having a restructuring effect on the skin barrier function; agents promoting the maturation of the horny envelope; agents promoting skin microcirculation; agents stimulating the cellular energy metabolism of cells; tightening agents; antioxidant agents; anti-pollution and / or anti-free radical agents, desquamating agents, sunscreens, and mixtures thereof.

[0116] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples presented below. Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities indicated are expressed as a percentage by mass. Examples

[0117] Example 1 Preparation of an extract of Vitreoscilla filiformis

[0118] The Vitreoscilla filiformis strain (ATCC 15551) is cultured according to the method described in patent application WO-A-94-02158.

[0119] This is a continuous culture process. The culture is carried out at 26°C for at least 48 hours until a suitable cell concentration corresponding to an optical density at 600 nm greater than or equal to 1.5 is obtained. The strain is subcultured at 2% V / V in new medium for approximately 48 hours until a stable culture is obtained. A 1 liter Erlenmeyer flask containing 200 ml of new medium is then inoculated with 4 ml of the previous culture.

[0120] The Erlenmeyer flask culture is carried out at 26°C on a culture table shaken at 100 rpm. The resulting starter culture is used as an inoculum for a 50-litre fermenter. Growth takes place at 26°C, pH 7, 100 rpm and pO2>15%.

[0121] After 30 hours of growth, the biomass is transferred into a 3000 liter useful fermenter, to be cultivated under the same conditions. After 48 hours of growth, the cells are harvested continuously. The biomass is then concentrated approximately 50 times by centrifugation. The cells obtained are then frozen as the culture continues. These cells can be used as they are after thawing (unstabilized cell extract) or can be stabilized by autoclaving at 121°C for 20 to 40 minutes (stabilized cell extract). If necessary, these cells are resuspended in the culture medium to generate biomass before the autoclaving stabilization step.

[0122] The cells then burst during sterilization or autoclaving, releasing the cytosol and agglomerating the proteins and walls. The product obtained is then biphasic.

[0123] The supernatant liquid phase may be filtered at 0.22 pm to remove particles (“supernatant”).

[0124] The bacterial extract, in the form of cell extract (stabilized or not) or supernatant, can be used as is (aqueous form) or can be freeze-dried using conventional techniques (freeze-dried form).

[0125] Example 2 Effect on the expression of the protein marker transglutaminase on human epidermal keratinocytes

[0126] The assets implemented in this example are:

[0127] - an extract of Vitreoscilla filiformis. The latter is as described in the description above, and more specifically, that sold by the company Chimex (Noveal) under the name Mexoryl SAH, and

[0128] - an extract of wheat grain of the species Triticum V ulgare. The latter is such that described in the description above, and more specifically, the one sold by the company SEPPIC under the name “Ceramosides HP”. It is called “ceramoside” in the following passage.

[0129] The effects of the active ingredients according to the invention and their combination were evaluated on the expression of the markers in normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) in monolayer using in situ immunofluorescent labeling and image analysis.

[0130] For this, human keratinocytes NHEKs were cultured for 72 hours with the test compounds, their association and the reference element, and the expression of the epidermal marker TGK was quantified. Operating mode

[0131] The cells (human keratinocytes NHEKs) were seeded and cultured in a humid atmosphere at 37°C containing 5% CO2.

[0132] The culture medium (SFM, serum-free medium) was supplemented with EGF and pituitary extract.

[0133] The medium was removed after incubation in the test medium for 72 hours, and the cells were rinsed with PBS solution, fixed and permeabilized. The cells were then labeled using the specific primary antibody Anti-TGK- (Proteintech, ref. 12912-3-AP). The primary antibody was then revealed using the fluorescent secondary antibody GAR-Alexa 488 (Invitrogen, ref. Al 1008) and the cell nuclei were stained using Hoechst 3325 solution using in parallel Hoechst 33258 solution (bis-benzimide, Sigma, ref. B1155).

[0134] Image acquisition (5 photos / well) was performed with an INCell Analyzer™ 2200 (GE Healthcare, x20 objective). Labeling was quantified by measuring fluorescence intensity and normalizing fluorescence intensity to the total cell number (digital data integration with Developer Toolbox 1.5, GE Healthcare). Results after 72 hours of treatment

[0135] [Tables 1] Treatment Expression compared to untreated control (%) Reference CàCh 1.3 mM 3106 Ceramoside 0.001¾ 244 ■'Extract of 0.001¾ 83 0.002¾ 94 0.05% 137 0.1% 101 Association of ceramoside (1) and extract of Jî / ji&rwîis (2) 0.004¾ (1) and 0.1% (2) mass fraction (1) / (2) 440

[0136] * The contents indicated designate the final content of the extract in the medium of culture.

[0137] Under the experimental conditions of this study, the Vitreoscilla filiformis extract had no effect on the expression of the protein marker TGK compared to the untreated control.

[0138] Ceramoside alone has an effect on the expression of the protein marker TGK compared to the untreated control (+244% compared to the untreated control).

[0139] Surprisingly and remarkably, the combination of ceramoside and Vitreoscilla filiformis extract induced an increase in the expression of the TGK protein marker, much greater than the active ingredients tested alone compared to the untreated control (+440% compared to the untreated control), which represents a potentiation of approximately 2 times (440 / 244=1.80) whereas the Vitreoscilla filiformis extract does not show any effect alone.

[0140] In other words, the effectiveness of ceramoside on epidermal differentiation and the formation of the horny envelope, through its action on increasing the expression of TGK, is increased by its association with an extract of Vitreoscilla filiformis which results in an expression of TGK twice as strong as ceramoside alone.

[0141] The combination of the two active ingredients, in comparison with the active ingredients alone, has a synergistic effect on increasing the expression of the protein marker transglutaminase TGK involved in epidermal differentiation.

[0142] Based on the results obtained, this combination of active ingredients therefore makes it possible to stimulate epidermal differentiation and thus improve the barrier function and hydration of the skin.

[0143] Example 3 Gel-cream comprising the combination in accordance with the invention

[0144] The ingredients of phase A, B and C are mixed at 65°C until a homogeneous cream gel is obtained, then, after cooling to room temperature, phase D, previously mixed and homogenized, is introduced.

[0145] [Tables2] INCIW Phase Concentration (% by weight) PRESERVATIVE AT 0.50 ALCOHOL DENAT. (CARGILL 66212 sold by the CARGILL company) D 5.00 WATER A Qsp 100 VEGETABLE FAT. C 1.50 GL YCERIN (REFINED GLYCERIN 99.5% PH. EURO; Sold by the company C ARGILL) A 3.00 VEGETABLE OIL C 1.00 SILICONE OIL C 4.50 VITREOSCILLA FERMENT (MEXORYL S AH by the company CHIMEX (NOVEAL)) A 1.00 AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE (HOSTACERIN AMPS sold by the company CLARIANT) B 4.30 TRITIŒM VULGARE (WHEAT) SEE© EXTRACT (CERAMOSIDES™ HP sold by the company SEPPIC) D 0.01

[0146] Example 4 Water-in-oil cream comprising the combination according to the invention

[0147] Phase A1 is heated to 75°C, then heating is stopped after obtaining a homogeneous phase, and the ingredients of phase A2 are added, then cooling is continued to room temperature, after which phase B is introduced.

[0148] [Tables3] lnci a siT) Phase Concentration (% mass) WATER AQUA TRÏTICUM VLLGARE (WHEAT) Sëëd' EXTRACT - TRÏTICUM VULGARE SEED EXTRACT (CERAMOSIDES HP sold by the company SEPPIC ) Al Al Qsp ICO 0,05 POLYGLYCERYL-6 DISTEARATE (and) JOJOBA ESTERS (and) HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNTLOWER) SEED WAX (and) CETYL ÀLCOHQL (and) PQLYGLYCERYLG BEESWAX (and) POLYGLYCERIN-3 (and) ACACIA DECURRENS (FLOWER WAX / POLYGLYCERYL-6 DISTEARATE (and) JOJOBA ESTERS (and) HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED CERA (and) CETYL ALCOHOL (and) POLYGLYCERYL-3 BEESWAX (and) POLYGLYCERIN-3 (and) ACACIA DECURRENS FLOWER WAX (ACTIMELLI MB sold by the company GATEFOSSE) AL 5,5 MTREOSCÏLLA FERAIENT (MEXORYL SAH sold by the company CHLMEX (NOMEAL )} Al 0,1 SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (AMISOFT HS 11 PF tendu par la société AJINOMOTO) Al 0,2 CONSERVATEUR Al 0,7 CORPS GRAS Al 1 VEGETALE HUILE Al ■y GLYCERIN (REFINED GLYCERINE 99AH PH.EURO x endn by the company CARGILE) A2 5 OIL \YGETALE A2 5,8 ACRTTAMIDE SODIUM ACRTTOTTDIMETHT'LTAURATE COPOLYMER (and) ISOHEXADECANE (and) POLYSORBATE 80 (SIMULGEL 600 sold by the company SEPPIC) B 2 4.

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one extract of non-photosynthetic, non-fruiting filamentous bacteria and at least one extract of wheat grain of the species Triticum Vulgare comprising a mixture of phytosphingolipids and phytoglycoglycerolipids in a weight ratio of between 0.5 and 2.

2. Cosmetic and / or dermatological composition according to claim 1, in which the extract of non-photosynthetic, non-fruiting filamentous bacteria is present in a mass content ranging from 0.02% to 5%, in particular from 0.05% to 4%, even more particularly from 0.08% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of dry extract of said composition, in particular from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight.

3. Cosmetic and / or dermatological composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, in which said extract of wheat grain of the species Triticum Vulgare is present in a mass content ranging from 0.001% to 0.2% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 0.15% by weight, more particularly from 0.001% to 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of dry extract of said composition, in particular from 0.001% to 0.08% by weight.

4. Cosmetic and / or dermatological composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, in which the mass ratio between the extract of wheat grain of the species Triticum Vulgare and the extract of non-photosynthetic non-fruiting filamentous bacteria is between 1:150 and 1:1.5, in particular between 1:100 and 1:2, for example, said mass ratio being able to be between 1:120 and 1:80 or between 1:1.5 and 1:2.

5.

5. Cosmetic and / or dermatological composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, in which the extract of non-photosynthetic non-fruiting filamentous bacteria is an extract of Vitreoscilla filifromis, even more preferably a cellular extract of Vitreoscilla filiformis.

6. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition as defined according to any one of the preceding claims, for improving and / or strengthening the barrier function of the skin.

7. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 5, to improve and / or strengthen the protection of the skin against external aggressions.

8. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 5, for improving the hydration of the skin and / or its appendages.

9. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 5, for preventing and / or treating roughness or micro-relief of the skin and / or its appendages and / or for improving the radiance of the complexion and / or for improving the suppleness of the skin and / or its appendages.

10. Cosmetic treatment process intended to improve and / or strengthen the barrier function and / or hydration and / or resistance to external aggressions of the skin and / or its appendages and characterized in that a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 is applied to the skin and / or its appendages.