Cosmetic composition comprising specific non-ionic and cationic surfactants, vinegar and additional carboxylic acids, and cationic polysaccharides, and process

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising vinegar, at least one C1-C6 carboxylic acid other than acetic acid, at least one specific nonionic surfactant, at least one fatty amine, and at least one cationic polysaccharide. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method for keratinous materials, particularly for conditioning hair, using such a composition.

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition comprising particular nonionic and cationic surfactants, vinegar and additional carboxylic acids, and cationic polysaccharides, and method

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular for hair, and more particularly for conditioning hair, comprising one or more particular non-ionic and cationic surfactants, vinegar and one or more additional carboxylic acids, and one or more cationic polysaccharides. The invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials using said composition.

[0002] Hair can generally be damaged and weakened by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, and / or by mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, perming and / or straightening.

[0003] To overcome these drawbacks, it is now common to use hair compositions which allow the hair to be conditioned following these treatments in order to give it shine, softness, suppleness, lightness, a natural feel as well as detangling properties. These hair compositions may be, for example, care compositions, to be applied before or after shampooing, or even compositions which are both cleansing and conditioning, such as conditioning shampoos for example.

[0004] However, the cosmetic properties provided can still be improved; conditioning agents are then generally included in these compositions, most often silicone-based. However, silicones are not always very popular with consumers, who are increasingly looking for compositions for conditioning hair that do not contain silicones.

[0005] It has been proposed to replace silicones with various carbon-based conditioning agents such as fatty alcohols or fatty esters; however, these hair compositions are not necessarily entirely satisfactory and can still be improved, particularly concerning the deposition of conditioning agents, particularly non-silicone ones, on keratin fibers.

[0006] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, i.e. those whose design and development take environmental issues into account, is becoming a major concern to help meet global challenges. It is therefore essential to offer compositions that make it possible to respond to these environmental challenges.

[0007] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or with a good index of naturalness and / or of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.

[0008] Hair care compositions have also been proposed, formulated mainly from ingredients of natural origin, and making it possible in particular to add shine to the hair; by way of example, mention may be made of rinsing vinegar type compositions, which may comprise, in addition to vinegar, cationic and / or non-ionic surfactants.

[0009] However, these compositions can still be improved, particularly with regard to the cosmetic properties provided to the hair.

[0010] There is therefore a real need to develop cosmetic compositions, particularly hair compositions, which are capable of giving the hair improved cosmetic properties, particularly shine, while providing strength to said hair (making it stronger), or even providing repair, particularly in the case of damaged or weakened hair.

[0011] The present invention relates in particular to a cosmetic composition, preferably for hair, comprising:

[0012] (i) one or more vinegars,

[0013] (ii) one or more carboxylic acids comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, other than acetic acid,

[0014] (iii) one or more non-ionic surfactants chosen from alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, alkenyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, optionally oxyalkylenated and comprising from 1 to 15 glucose units, alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucoside esters, and mixtures thereof;

[0015] (iv) one or more cationic surfactants chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, their salts, and their mixtures;

[0016] (v) one or more cationic polysaccharides,

[0017] the weight ratio between

[0018] - the total content of carboxylic acid(s) comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, different from acetic acid, on the one hand and

[0019] - the total content of cationic surfactant(s) chosen from fatty amines primary, secondary or tertiary, possibly polyoxyalkylenated, their salts, and their mixtures, on the other hand,

[0020] being greater than or equal to 1, preferably strictly greater than 1.

[0021] It has been found that the composition according to the invention also makes it possible to improve the cosmetic properties conferred on keratin fibers, in particular on hair, in particular on sensitized, damaged or weakened hair. In particular, the composition according to the invention makes it possible to improve the shine, lightness, softness and suppleness of the hair, and facilitates its detangling; particularly when the composition is applied after a conditioner.

[0022] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ...”.

[0023] Furthermore, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more” and can be substituted for it. (i) Vinegar / acetum

[0024] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more vinegars. The composition according to the invention may therefore comprise a single vinegar or a mixture of different vinegars, for example vinegars of different compositions and / or of different origins.

[0025] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "vinegar" means an aqueous solution of acetic acid, comprising at least 3% by weight of acetic acid, preferably from 3 to 20% by weight, better still from 5 to 18% by weight, of acetic acid; even better still from 8 to 15% by weight of acetic acid; and even more preferably from 10 to 14% by weight of acetic acid.

[0026] In a known manner, vinegar can be prepared by double fermentation, in particular by alcoholic fermentation followed by acetic fermentation, of starch, for example wheat starch.

[0027] Vinegar can also be prepared by acetic fermentation of an alcoholic solution such as wine, beer or cider.

[0028] The compounds with the INCI name VINEGAR or ACETUM can be used as vinegar according to the invention.

[0029] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.2 to 10% by weight of vinegar, relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.5 to 8% by weight, even better from 0.8 to 6% by weight, or even from 1 to 4% by weight.

[0030] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.02 to 1.2% by weight of acetic acid, relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.05 to 1% by weight, even better from 0.06 to 0.8% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, (ii) Carboxylic acids

[0031] The composition according to the invention further comprises (ii) one or more carboxylic acids comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, excluding acetic acid.

[0032] This means that the composition according to the invention comprises, in addition to the acetic acid originating from vinegar (i), at least one additional C1-C6 carboxylic acid, different from acetic acid.

[0033] Preferably, the carboxylic acid(s) used in the context of the invention are acyclic.

[0034] We may notably cite as carboxylic acid (ii), alone or in mixture:

[0035] - monocarboxylic acids of formula R-COOH, different from acetic acid,

[0036] in which R represents a linear or branched (Cl-C6)alkyl radical; or a unsaturated C2-C6 radical (= comprising at least one ethylenic unsaturation, preferably one ethylenic unsaturation), linear or branched; optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups and preferably not comprising an amino radical; better still R denotes a linear (C1-C6)alkyl group optionally substituted by 1, 2 or 3 hydroxy groups, preferably R represents a linear (C1-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl or ethyl;

[0037] - polycarboxylic acids of formula:

[0038] in which A represents a polyvalent hydrocarbon group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups and t represents an integer between 1 and 3 (inclusive);

[0039] preferably t=1 and A represents a divalent (CrC4)alkylene group optionally substituted in particular by one or more hydroxy groups.

[0040] Preferably, the carboxylic acid(s) (ii) are chosen from hydroxy acids, and better still from alpha-hydroxy acids, comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0041] Monocarboxylic acids that may be mentioned include: glycolic acid, lactic acid and their mixtures; preferably lactic acid.

[0042] Examples of polycarboxylic acids that may be mentioned include: tartaric acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, citric acid and mixtures thereof; preferably citric acid.

[0043] Preferably, the organic acid(s) which can be used according to the invention are chosen from glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, citric acid, and mixtures thereof; preferably, from lactic acid, citric acid and mixtures thereof.

[0044] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises said carboxylic acid(s) (ii) in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 8% by weight relative to the weight total of the composition, in particular from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 4.5% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 4% by weight, preferably from 1 to 3.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0045] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises said carboxylic acid(s) (ii) chosen from glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, citric acid, and mixtures thereof; in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 4.5% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 4% by weight, preferably from 1 to 3.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (iii) Non-ionic surfactants

[0046] The cosmetic composition according to the invention also comprises one or more non-ionic surfactants (iii) chosen from alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, alkenyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, optionally oxyalkylenated and comprising from 1 to 15 glucose units, alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucoside esters, and mixtures thereof.

[0047] The oxyalkylenated units are more particularly oxyethylenated, oxypropylenated units, or their combination, preferably oxyethylenated.

[0048] The number of moles of ethylene and / or propylene oxide preferably ranges from 1 to 250, more particularly from 2 to 100; better still from 2 to 50; the number of moles of glycerol ranges in particular from 1 to 50, better still from 1 to 10.

[0049] Advantageously, the non-ionic surfactants according to the invention do not comprise oxypropylenated units.

[0050] Preferably, they comprise a number of moles of ethylene oxide ranging from 1 to 250, in particular from 2 to 100, better still from 2 to 50.

[0051] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises one or more non-ionic surfactants chosen from, alone or as a mixture, alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, optionally oxyalkylenated, preferably comprising from 1 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide, and comprising 1 to 15 glucose units.

[0052] In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise one or more non-ionic surfactants of alkyl(poly)glycoside type of formula R10-(R2O)t-(G)v

[0053] in which:

[0054] - RI represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical contains 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms; preferably a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 8 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0055] - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

[0056] - G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms; preferably the glucose, fructose or galactose; even better glucose;

[0057] -1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4, better still from 0 to 3, still better 0 ;

[0058] - v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of po lymerization (v) being more particularly between 1 and 2.

[0059] The glucosidic bonds between the sugar units are generally of the 1-6 or 1-4 type, preferably of the 1-4 type.

[0060] Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant.

[0061] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the non-ionic surfactant(s) (iii) in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.3 to 4% by weight, even better from 0.5 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0062] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the non-ionic surfactant(s) (iii) chosen from, alone or as a mixture, optionally oxyalkylenated (C8-C30) alkyl (poly)glucosides, preferably comprising from 1 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide, and comprising 1 to 15 glucose units, in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.3 to 4% by weight, even better from 0.5 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, (iv) Cationic surfactants

[0063] The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more cationic surfactants chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, or their salts, and their mixtures.

[0064] The term "fatty amine" means a compound comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated, or its salts and comprising at least one C6-C30, preferably C8-C30, hydrocarbon chain. Said cationic surfactants are non-silicone, i.e. they do not contain an Si-O group.

[0065] Preferably, the fatty amines useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0066] As fatty amines, mention may be made of amidoamines. The amidoamines according to the invention may advantageously be chosen from fatty amidoamines, the fatty chain being able to be carried by the amine group or by the amido group.

[0067] Amidoamine means a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.

[0068] Fatty amidoamine is understood to mean an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain. Preferably, fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention are not quaternized.

[0069] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0070] Among the fatty amidoamines according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of the amidoamines of formula RCONHR”N(R')2 in which:

[0071] - R represents a linear or branched, saturated or monovalent hydrocarbon radical unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23 alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23 alkenyl radical;

[0072] - R' ' represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 atoms of carbon, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, better still, 3 carbon atoms; and - R', identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a methyl radical.

[0073] Mention may in particular be made of the following fatty amidoamines: oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[0074] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[0075] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are not in quaternized form when they are introduced into the composition according to the invention (which does not exclude the fact that they can quaternize in situ).

[0076] Preferably, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, or their salts, and their mixtures, in the composition according to the invention, ranges from 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3 to 7% by weight, better still from 0.4 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0077] Preferably, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) chosen from ami-domains of formula RCONHR”N(R')2, their salts, and their mixtures, in the composition according to the invention, ranges from 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3 to 7% by weight, better still from 0.4 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (v) Cationic polysaccharides

[0078] The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more cationic polysaccharides.

[0079] The cationic polysaccharides may in particular be chosen from cationic celluloses, cationic galactomannan gums, and mixtures thereof.

[0080] Mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers, cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.

[0081] Cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are described in particular in FR1492597; they are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose having reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group.

[0082] We can notably cite the polymers marketed under the name "UCARE POLYMER JR” (JR 400 LT, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by the company AMERCHOL.

[0083] Cationic cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described in particular in patent US4131576; mention may be made of hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. Mention may in particular be made of quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses, crosslinked or not, the quaternizing agent possibly being in particular diallyldimethylammonium chloride; and in particular hydroxyethylcellulose hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium

[0084] Among the commercial products meeting this definition, we can cite the products sold under the name "Celquat L 200" and "Celquat H 100" by the National Starch Company.

[0085] As a particularly preferred cationic cellulose, mention may in particular be made of the polymer with the INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-10.

[0086] Cationic galactomannan gums are described in particular in patents US3589578 and US4031307; mention may be made of cationic guar gums, in particular those comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, in particular trimethylammonium. We can thus cite guar gums modified by a salt (for example a chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium.

[0087] Preferably, 2 to 30% by number of the hydroxyl functions of the guar gums carry cationic trialkylammonium groups. Even more preferably, 5 to 20% of the number of hydroxyl functions of these guar gums are connected by cationic trialkylammonium groups. Among these trialkylammonium groups, mention may be made in particular of the trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups. Even more preferably, these groups represent from 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified guar gum. According to the invention, guar gums modified with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride may be used.

[0088] In particular, mention may be made of the products with the INCI name “HYDRXYPROPYL GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE” and “GUAR HYDROXYPROPYL-TRIMONIUM CHLORIDE”. Such products are marketed in particular under the names JAGUAR C13S, JAGUAR C15, JAGUAR C17 or JAGUAR C162 by the company Solvay.

[0089] Among the cationic polysaccharides that may be used, mention may also be made of cationic derivatives of cassia gum, in particular those comprising quaternary ammonium groups; in particular, mention may be made of the product with the INCI name “CASSIA HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE”.

[0090] The composition according to the invention may comprise the cationic polysaccharide(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0091] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise the cationic polysaccharide(s) chosen from cationic celluloses, cationic galactomannans, and mixtures thereof, in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0092] Even better, the composition according to the invention may comprise the cationic polysaccharide(s) chosen from cationic galactomannans, in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0093] In the composition according to the invention, the weight ratio between:

[0094] - the total content of carboxylic acid(s) comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, different from acetic acid, on the one hand and

[0095] - the total content of cationic surfactant(s) chosen from fatty amines primary, secondary or tertiary, possibly polyoxyalkylenated, their salts, and their mixtures, on the other hand,

[0096] is greater than or equal to 1, preferably strictly greater than 1.

[0097] Preferably, this ratio is between 1.05 and 5, or even between 1.1 and 4, even better between 1.15 and 3 (the limits being included).

[0098] For the sake of clarity, this is the weight ratio (ii) / (iv).

[0099] Preferably, in the composition according to the invention, the weight ratio between:

[0100] - the total content of vinegar(s) on the one hand and

[0101] - the total content of cationic surfactant(s) chosen from fatty amines primary, secondary or tertiary, possibly polyoxyalkylenated, their salts, and their mixtures, on the other hand,

[0102] is greater than or equal to 1, preferably strictly greater than 1; even better between 1.05 and 5, or even between 1.1 and 4, even better between 1.15 and 3 (limits included).

[0103] For the sake of clarity, this is the weight ratio (i) / (iv).

[0104] Preferably, in the composition according to the invention, the weight ratio between:

[0105] - the total content of vinegar(s) on the one hand and

[0106] - the total content of non-ionic surfactant(s) chosen from alkyl(C8-C30 )(poly)glucosides, alkenyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, optionally oxyalkylenated and comprising from 1 to 15 glucose units, alkyl (C8-C30)(poly)glucoside esters, and mixtures thereof, on the other hand,

[0107] is greater than or equal to 0.5, preferably strictly greater than 0.5; even better between 0.8 and 5, or even between 0.9 and 4, even better between 1 and 3 (limits included).

[0108] For the sake of clarity, this is the weight ratio (i) / (iii).

[0109] Preferably, in the composition according to the invention, the weight ratio between:

[0110] - the total content of vinegar(s) on the one hand and

[0111] - the total content of cationic polysaccharide(s), on the other hand,

[0112] is greater than or equal to 1, preferably strictly greater than 1; even better between 2 and 20, or even between 5 and 15, even better between 8 and 12 (limits included).

[0113] For the sake of clarity, this is the weight ratio (i) / (v).

[0114] Preferably, in the composition according to the invention, the weight ratio between:

[0115] - the total content of vinegar(s) on the one hand and

[0116] - the total content of carboxylic acids comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, different from acetic acid, on the other hand,

[0117] is between 0.2 and 1.5, better between 0.3 and 1.4, even better between 0.4 and 1.3, or even between 0.45 and 1.2 (limits included).

[0118] For the sake of clarity, this is the weight ratio (i) / (ii). Other ingredients

[0119] The composition according to the invention may comprise water or a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents chosen from C1-C4 alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycols; and mixtures thereof.

[0120] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises water, in particular in a total content of between 75 and 99% by weight, preferably between 80 and 98% by weight, preferentially between 85 and 97% by weight, even better between 90 and 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0121] The pH of the composition according to the invention generally varies from 2 to 5, preferably from 2.1 to 4.5, preferentially from 2.2 to 4.0, and better still from 2.3 to 3.5.

[0122] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more liquid fatty substances, in particular chosen from triglyceride type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, preferably vegetable oils; mineral oils (or liquid hydrocarbons); synthetic oils; liquid fatty alcohols; liquid fatty esters in particular other than triglycerides and in particular liquid esters of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0123] By "fatty substance" is meant an organic compound insoluble in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa) (solubility less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms and / or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as for example chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF) or vaseline oil.

[0124] The fatty substances which can be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0125] Preferably, the fatty substances useful according to the invention are non-silicone. The term "non-silicone fatty substance" means a fatty substance not containing Si-O bonds and the term "silicone fatty substance" means a fatty substance containing at least one Si-O bond.

[0126] The term “liquid fatty substance” means a fatty substance having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa).

[0127] It is recalled that the alcohols, esters and fatty acids more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40, better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0128] Liquid hydrocarbons can be linear, branched, possibly cyclic in C6 to C16; we can cite hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and their mixtures.

[0129] Liquid hydrocarbons can be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, and comprise more than 16 carbon atoms; we can cite paraffin or vaseline oils, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam®, and their mixtures.

[0130] The triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin may be chosen from liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado oils, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stea-rineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0131] The liquid fatty alcohols may be chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. Mention may be made of octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol or linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0132] The liquid esters of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohols, different from the triglycerides mentioned above, may be chosen from esters of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or polyacids, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26 and of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or polyalcohols, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, the total number of carbons of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10. Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one of the alcohol or the acid is branched.

[0133] Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

[0134] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, ethyl-2-hexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0135] Mention may also be made of esters of C4 to C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and C1 to C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and C2 to C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols. Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoylstearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate;trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.

[0136] The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, esters and diesters of sugars of C6 to C30 fatty acids, preferably C12 to C22. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone function, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides other than the anionic polysaccharides described below. Suitable sugars that may be mentioned include, for example, sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives, in particular alkylated ones, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose.

[0137] The esters of sugars and fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0138] The esters may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and their blends.

[0139] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or mixtures thereof, such as in particular the mixed esters oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate. More particularly, mention may be made of mono- and di-esters, and in particular mono- or di-oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.

[0140] Preferably, the liquid fatty substance(s) are chosen from vegetable oils; preferentially, they are chosen from sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, castor and avocado oils, shea butter oil, isopropyl myristate, coco caprylate / caprate, and mixtures thereof.

[0141] The total content of the liquid fatty substance(s) preferably varies from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0142] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more usual cosmetic ingredients, in particular chosen from sunscreens; moisturizing agents; anti-dandruff agents, antioxidant agents; pearlescent and opacifying agents; plasticizing or coalescing agents; preservatives; sequestering agents; coloring matters. The composition may of course comprise several cosmetic ingredients appearing in the list above. A person skilled in the art will take care to choose the ingredients included in the composition, as well as their quantities, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the envisaged addition.

[0143] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises:

[0144] - one or more vinegars, in particular one or more aqueous acid solutions acetic acid comprising 3 to 20% by weight of acetic acid, preferably in a total content of 0.02 to 1.2% by weight of acetic acid, relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.05 to 1% by weight, even better from 0.06 to 0.8% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight;

[0145] - one or more carboxylic acids chosen from glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, citric acid, and mixtures thereof; preferably, among lactic acid, citric acid and mixtures thereof; in particular in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 4.5% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 4% by weight, of preferably from 1 to 3.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0146] - one or more non-ionic surfactants chosen from alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, optionally oxyalkylenated, preferably comprising from 1 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide, and comprising 1 to 15 glucose units; preferably in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.3 to 4% by weight, even better from 0.5 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0147] - one or more cationic surfactants chosen from amidoamines of formula RCONHR”N(R')2, their salts, and their mixtures, in particular in a total content of 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular of 0.2 to 8% by weight, better still of 0.3 to 7% by weight, better still of 0.4 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0148] - one or more cationic polysaccharides chosen from celluloses ca cationic galactomannans, and mixtures thereof; preferably in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0149] the weight ratio between:

[0150] - the total content of carboxylic acid(s) comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, different from acetic acid, on the one hand and

[0151] - the total content of cationic surfactant(s) chosen from fatty amines primary, secondary or tertiary, possibly polyoxyalkylenated, their salts, and their mixtures, on the other hand,

[0152] being greater than or equal to 1, preferably strictly greater than 1.

[0153] The compositions according to the invention can advantageously be used as hair lotion, preferably for rinsing.

[0154] They can preferably be applied to damp hair, preferably previously washed; in particular before or after a conditioner, or even as a replacement for a conditioner.

[0155] Another subject of the present invention relates to a cosmetic treatment process, preferably hair treatment, in particular for conditioning keratin materials, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition as defined above, optionally followed by a leave-on time and / or rinsing and / or drying.

[0156] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. Example

[0157] The cosmetic compositions according to the invention A and B are prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below, the quantities of which are expressed in % in weight of active ingredient (AI).

[0158] [Tables 1] AB VINEGAR* 1.6 1.6 Citric acid 1.55 1.55 Lactic acid - 1.15 Caprylyl / Capryl glucoside 1.5 1.5 Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine 1.3 1 Cationic guar 0.15 0.2 Argan oil 0.01 - Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Ratio (ii) / (iv) 1.19 2.7

[0159] * The VINEGAR ingredient contains approximately 12% by weight of acetic acid.

[0160] Hair compositions are obtained which are in the form of a liquid. colorless transparent, and which can be used between a shampoo and a conditioner, with or without intermediate rinsing.

[0161] The compositions can also be used after a rinse-out conditioner, and are advantageously rinsed out.

[0162] They can still be used as a replacement for a conditioner, and can be rinsed off to advantage.

[0163] These compositions have a pH of 2.7 + / - 0.2.

[0164] They have been found to provide lightness, softness and suppleness to the hair, and make it easier to detangle, especially when the composition is applied after a conditioner. They also provide shine to the hair.

[0165] A / The reinforcement obtained using the compositions according to the invention is measured using the DSC technique.

[0166] (i) preparation of the wicks: the measurements are carried out on pre-prepared wicks manually bleached using a persulfate-based composition, then treated 5 times according to the following protocol: the strand is washed with a neutral shampoo comprising an anionic surfactant and an amphoteric surfactant, then rinsed, 0.4g of the composition to be tested is applied per gram of hair strand, left for 15 seconds, then rinsed and dried.

[0167] (ii) measurement method: the differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) technique is known to those skilled in the art as a method which makes it possible to quantify the ren forcing of proteins in the cortex of keratin fibers (Kinetics of the changes imparted to the main structural components of human hair by thermal treatment, FJ Wortmann and H. Deutz, J. Appl. Polym Sci., 48, 137 (1993). The principle of the test is to measure the protein denaturation temperature. It is widely recognized that the higher the protein denaturation temperature, the better the integrity of the cortex proteins, which translates into reduced fiber breakage.

[0168] The denaturation temperature is directly related to the binding density of the keratin proteins present in the cortex. Thus, the lower the denaturation temperature, the lower the binding density of the proteins between them, the disulfide bridges break and the cortex is damaged. A difference of 2°C is recognized by those skilled in the art as a significant modification.

[0169] The device used to perform the measurements is a TA Instruments DSC Q20 reference device. This device measures the energy flow during heating of the sample. The temperature at which the energy flow is greatest represents the denaturation temperature.

[0170] We obtain the following results:

[0171] [Tables2] Denaturation temperature Strands treated with composition B 160°C Control strands (treated with an aqueous solution at pH 6.2) 143°C

[0172] It is noted that the composition according to the invention made it possible to raise the denaturation temperature of the hair strands. The use of the composition according to the invention therefore makes it possible to repair and strengthen damaged / sensitized hair, insofar as the denaturation temperature is close to that of natural hair (which is approximately 160°C).

[0173] B / Evaluation of hair resistance by cyclic fatigue test

[0174] The wicks treated according to the invention and the control wicks were evaluated using the cyclic fatigue test described below.

[0175] The cyclic fatigue technique is known to those skilled in the art as a means of evaluating the resistance to breakage of keratin fibers (reference: https: / / www.diastron.com / app / uploads / 2017 / 06 / Dia-Stron-CYC801- Brochure.pdf).

[0176] The principle of the test consists of subjecting the hair fiber to repeated extension cycles (mechanical tensile stress, simulation of the repeated combing to which the hair is subjected daily), of low amplitude, until the fiber breaks. The number of extension cycles of a single fiber before breakage is measured.

[0177] Fibers of 30 mm length are subjected to constant stress (130 MPa) and constant speed (40 mm / s); the study is carried out at 25°C and 45% relative humidity. A Diastron CYC801 device from the company Diastron is used. A measurement series includes 150 hairs.

[0178] The cyclic fatigue results are presented in the form of survival curves (Kaplan-Meier method) and the Faire under these curves is used: the greater the Faire under the curve, the better the performance in terms of fiber reinforcement.

[0179] [Tables3] Area under the curve Strands treated with composition B 44671 Control strands 29713 p-value 0.0004

[0180] The value of Faire under the curve obtained for the fibers treated with composition B according to the invention is much higher than that obtained for the control fibers. These results are statistically different (p-value < 0.5%).

[0181] Composition B according to the invention therefore makes it possible to strengthen keratin fibers.

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition, preferably for hair, comprising: (i) one or more vinegars, (ii) one or more carboxylic acids comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, other than acetic acid, (iii) one or more non-ionic surfactants chosen from alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, alkenyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, optionally oxyalkylenated and comprising from 1 to 15 glucose units, alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucoside esters, and mixtures thereof; (iv) one or more cationic surfactants chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, their salts, and mixtures thereof;(v) one or more cationic polysaccharides, the weight ratio between - the total content of carboxylic acid(s) comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, other than acetic acid, on the one hand and - the total content of cationic surfactant(s) chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, their salts, and their mixtures, on the other hand, being greater than or equal to 1, preferably strictly greater than 1; better between 1.05 and 5, or even between 1.1 and 4, even better between 1.15 and 3.;

2. Composition according to the preceding claim, comprising from 0.2 to 10% by weight of vinegar, relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.5 to 8% by weight, even better from 0.8 to 6% by weight, or even from 1 to 4% by weight.

3. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the vinegar(s) are aqueous solutions of acetic acid comprising at least 3% by weight of acetic acid, preferably from 3 to 20% by weight, better still from 5 to 18% by weight, of acetic acid; even better still from 8 to 15% by weight of acetic acid; and even more preferably from 10 to 14% by weight of acetic acid.

4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims in which the carboxylic acid(s) (ii) comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, excluding acetic acid, are chosen from, alone or as a mixture: - monocarboxylic acids of formula R-COOH, different from acetic acid, in which R represents a linear or branched (C1-C6)alkyl radical; or an unsaturated C2-C6 radical (= comprising at least one ethylenic unsaturation, preferably one ethylenic unsaturation), linear or branched; optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups and preferably not comprising an amino radical; better still R denotes a linear (C1-C6)alkyl group optionally substituted by 1, 2 or 3 hydroxy groups, preferably R represents a linear (C1-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl or ethyl; - polycarboxylic acids of formula: 0 ! OH Lho Jt o in which A represents a polyvalent hydrocarbon group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups and t represents an integer between 1 and 3 (inclusive); preferably t=l and A represents a divalent (CrC4)alkylene group optionally substituted in particular by one or more hydroxy groups;preferentially, the carboxylic acid(s) (ii) being chosen from glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, citric acid, and mixtures thereof; preferably, from lactic acid, citric acid and mixtures thereof.;

5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims comprising the said carboxylic acid(s) (ii) comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, excluding acetic acid, in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 4.5% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 4% by weight, preferably from 1 to 3.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims comprising one or more non-ionic surfactants (iii) of alkyl(poly)glycoside type of formula R10-(R20)t-(G)v in which: - RI represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical of which the linear or branched radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms; preferably a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms; - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms, - G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms; preferably glucose, fructose or galactose; even better glucose; -1 denotes a value from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4, better from 0 to 3, even better 0; - v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization (v) being more particularly between 1 and 2.

7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims comprising the non-ionic surfactant(s) (iii) chosen from alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, alkenyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, optionally oxyalkylenated and comprising from 1 to 15 glucose units, alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucoside esters, and mixtures thereof, in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.3 to 4% by weight, even better from 0.5 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the cationic surfactant(s) chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, or their salts, and their mixtures, are chosen from fatty amidoamines of formula RCONHR”N(R')2in which: - R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23 alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23 alkenyl radical; - R” represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, better still, 3 carbon atoms; and - R', identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a methyl radical; best among oleamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of cationic surfactants (iv) chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, or their salts, and their mixtures, ranges from 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3 to 7% by weight, better still from 0.4 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the cationic polysaccharides are chosen from cationic celluloses, cationic galactomannan gums, and mixtures thereof.

11. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising the cationic polysaccharide(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Composition according to one of the preceding claims comprising water, in particular in a total content of between 75 and 99% by weight, preferably between 80 and 98% by weight, preferentially between 85 and 97% by weight, even better between 90 and 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. Cosmetic treatment process, preferably hair treatment, in particular for conditioning keratin materials, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition as defined according to one of the preceding claims, optionally followed by a leave-on time and / or rinsing and / or drying.