Use of a skin benefit agent in boosting skin's night repair function
Applying a skin benefit agent like moringa oil, farnesol, or a PPAR activator to the skin in the evening boosts the skin's night repair function, addressing the decline in skin health due to environmental stressors and aging.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- PCT/EP2024/080106
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2023-11-09
- Filing Date
- 2024-10-24
- Publication Date
- 2025-05-15
AI Technical Summary
Human skin's natural lipid matrix, crucial for its barrier function, deteriorates due to exposure to pollutants, UV radiation, age, and stress, leading to dry, wrinkled, and less supple skin.
The use of a skin benefit agent, such as moringa oil, farnesol, or an activator of peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor, applied to the skin from about 5 pm to 12 am, boosts the skin's night repair function.
This approach enhances the expression of genes responsible for skin repair, such as BMAL1, LC3B, XPA, and CCND1, thereby improving skin health and repair even under stressful conditions.
Smart Images

Figure IMGF000017_0001
Abstract
Description
[0001] USE OF A SKIN BENEFIT AGENT IN BOOSTING SKIN’S NIGHT REPAIR FUNCTION
[0002] Field of Invention
[0003] The present invention relates to use of a skin benefit agent in boosting skin’s night repair function.
[0004] Background to the Invention
[0005] Human skin is an important barrier between the body and the environment. Critical for the barrier function of the skin is the lipid matrix found in the stratum corneum. A healthy matrix within the stratum corneum is one which is rich in about an equimolar mixture of ceramides (45-50% by weight), cholesterol (25% by weight) and fatty acids (10-15% by weight) whereby other lipids, like cholesterol sulfate, make up the balance, Kathi C. Madison, Barrier Function of the Skin: “La Raison d’Etre” of the Epidermis, The Society for Investigative Dermatology, Inc. (2003). These fatty acids and waxy lipids regulate the water barrier and retention capacity of skin and they also limit the entry of pollutants and microorganisms that contact skin from the environment. Moreover, the production of ceramides in the skin results in the generation of sphingosines that improve a variety of skin characteristics.
[0006] Unfortunately, due to factors e.g. exposure to pollutants, excessive exposure to ultraviolet radiations during the day time, age and stress, levels of such fatty acids and lipids decline which invariably results in skin that is not supple, dry and even wrinkled.
[0007] Several personal care compositions e.g. cosmetic compositions, are known in the art which tend to deliver some or the other benefit e.g. hydration, glow, etc. However, in general, consumer tend to look forward to technologies that deliver benefits or deliver new and newer benefits, to their skin.
[0008] The present inventors, whilst working in the field of skin treatments, have surprisingly found a new use of a skin benefit agent that boosts skin’s night repair function. Particularly, they found that a skin benefit agent selected from moringa oil, farnesol and an activator of peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor boosted skin’s night repair function wherein the skin benefit agent is applied on to the skin at the end of the day from about 5 pm to about 12 am.
[0009] Summary of the Invention
[0010] Accordingly, in a first aspect, the present invention relates to use of a skin benefit agent for boosting skin’s night repair function, wherein the skin benefit agent is selected from moringa oil, farnesol, an activator of peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor and mixtures thereof; and wherein the skin benefit agent is applied on to the skin at the end of the day from about 5 pm to about 12 am.
[0011] Further, in a second aspect, the present invention relates to a personal care composition comprising said skin benefit agent for use in boosting skin’s night repair function wherein the skin benefit agent is selected from moringa oil, farnesol, an activator of peroxisome proliferator- activated receptor and mixtures thereof; and wherein the personal care composition is applied on to the skin at the end of the day from about 5 pm to about 12 am.
[0012] Further, in a third aspect, the present invention relates to a method of boosting skin’s night repair function wherein the method comprises: a. a step of applying a skin benefit agent in a composition to the skin; and b. optionally, rinsing off the composition, wherein, the skin benefit agent is selected from moringa oil, farnesol, an activator of peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor and mixtures thereof; and wherein step a., is carried out at the end of the day from about 5 pm to about 12 am.
[0013] Detailed Description of the Invention
[0014] All other aspects of the present invention will more readily become apparent from the description and examples which follow. Any feature of one aspect of the present invention may be utilized in any other aspect of the invention.
[0015] Skin, as used herein, means the skin on the feet, face, neck, chest, arms (including underarms), hands, legs, buttocks, back and scalp (including hair). A personal care composition comprising as per the present invention (the invention) comprising the skin benefit agents mentioned hereinabove (i.e., end use composition ready to apply and leave-on, or wash off) includes creams, lotions, serums, gels, balms, deodorants and antiperspirants (including aerosols), shampoos, mousses, conditioners, bars and liquid wash products. In one aspect, the end use composition of the present invention is a personal wash composition, a face wash product or a leave-on product, such as a cosmetic cream or lotion to be applied to the face, body or hands.
[0016] Preferably, the end use composition of the present invention is a prolipid composition, meaning a composition that is suitable to restore the fatty acid content, ceramide and / or cholesterol levels of consumers. Therefore, the prolipid composition of the present invention is one which results in personalized results in that it can restore fatty acid content, ceramide and / or cholesterol levels, depending on what an individual consumer’s skin matrix needs. Unless explicitly stated otherwise, all ranges described herein are meant to include all ranges subsumed therein. The term comprises is meant to encompass the terms consisting essentially of and consisting of. As to the percentages used herein, the same are meant to be by weight of the composition unless stated otherwise and may be abbreviated as “wt%”. Except in the operating and comparative examples, or where otherwise explicitly indicated, all numbers used in this description indicating amounts, or ratios of materials and / or use thereof are to be understood as modified by the word “about”. In the context of the time of applying the composition at the end of the day from about 5 pm to about 12 am, the term ‘about’ is meant to include a modification of about 15 to 30 minutes from the time range specified therein. For example, about 5 pm is meant to include 15 of 30 minutes earlier than 5 pm, i.e. 4:45 pm or 4:30 pm. Similarly, about 12 am is meant to include 12:15 am or 12:30 am.
[0017] ‘Night repair function’, preferably means that expression of genes that are responsible for the repair function of the skin. ‘Boosting night repair function’ preferably means boosting expression of any one or more e.g. all, of the following genes that are responsible for the repair function of the skin. Such genes are skin circadian rhythm gene (BMAL1 ; NCBI database accession number NM_001297719), autophagy (LC3B; NCBI database accession number NG_029030); DNA repair (XPA; NCBI database accession number NM_000380) and cell proliferation (CCND1 / Cyclin D1 ; NCBI database accession number NM_053056).
[0018] It has been found that when a skin benefit agent selected from moringa oil, farnesol, an activator of peroxisome prol iterator-activated receptor and mixtures thereof or a personal care composition comprising the same, were applied on to the skin at the end of the day from about 5 pm to about 12 am, it boosted skin’s night repair function. Moreover, such boost in the night repair function was found to be despite the skin was exposed to stress I pollution.
[0019] Without wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that people tend to get exposed to more stressful conditions and / or to pollutants during daytime; and the skin undergoes repair in the night. Stressful conditions and / or exposure to pollutants is likely to be more due to excessive exposure to ultraviolet light contained in the sunlight during the day; and / or day-to-day outdoor activities people carry out during the day.
[0020] The genes mentioned above are known to carry out the functions specified which are associated with night repair of the skin. The benefit agents described herein or a composition comprising the same, when applied at the end of the day from about 5 pm to about 12 am, it was found that they enhanced / boosted expression of these genes, i.e. they boosted skin’s night repair function.
[0021] Accordingly, in a first aspect, the present invention relates to use of a skin benefit agent for boosting skin’s night repair function, wherein the skin benefit agent is selected from moringa oil, farnesol, an activator of peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor and mixtures thereof; and wherein the skin benefit agent is applied on to the skin at the end of the day from about 5 pm to about 12 am.
[0022] Preferably, the skin benefit agent is an activator of peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor. Examples of an activator of peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor (PPAR) hereinafter referred to as PPAR activator include 10- hydroxy stearic acid (10-HSA), 12-hydroxystearic acid (12HSA), cis parinaric acid, trans-7-octadecenoic acid, cis 5,8,11 ,14,17 eicosapentanoic acid, cis-4,7, 10, 13, 16, 19 docosahexenoic acid, conjugated linoleic acid (c9,t11), columbinic acid, linolenelaidic acid, ricinolaidic acid, stearidonic acid, 2-hydroxystearic acid, alpha-linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, cis-11 ,14-eicosadienoic acid, conjugated linoleic (t10,c12), conjugated linoleic acid (t9,t11), conjugated linoleic acid (50:50 mix of c9, t11 and t10 c12), coriander acids, linolelaidic acid, monopetroselinic acid, petroselinic acid, ricinoleic acid, stearolic acid, thuja extract or trans vaccenic acid.
[0023] Even other PPAR activators suitable for use include cis-11 ,14,17 eicosatrienoic acid, cis-5 eicosenoic acid, cis-8,11 ,14 eicosatrienoic acid, hexadecatrienoic acid, palmitoleic acid, petroselaidic acid, , cis 13, 16 docosadienoic acid, cis vaccenic acid, cis-11 eicosenoic acid, cis- 13,16,19 docosatrienoic acid, cis-13-octadecenoic acid, cis-15-octadecanoic acid, cis-7, 10, 13, 16 docosatetraenoic acid, elaidic acid, gamma-linolenic acid, geranic acid, geranyl geranoic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid, petroselinyl alcohol, phytanic acid, pinolenic acid, trans- 13-octadecenoic acid or tridecyl salicylic acid (TDS).
[0024] Preferably, the PPAR activator is selected from petroselinic acid, conjugated linoleic acid, 12- HSA, 10-HSA, ricinoleic acid or a mixture thereof. More preferably, the PPAR activator is 12- HSA.
[0025] When contained in a personal care composition, typically, a PPAR activator will make up from 0.05 to 8.0% and preferably, from 1 to 6%, and most preferably, from 1.5 to 4.5% by weight of the composition. In an aspect of the invention, the composition will have from 1.5 to 4%, and in still another aspect, from 1.5 to 3.5% by weight PPAR activator. Alternately but equally preferably, the skin benefit agent is moringa oil. Preferably, moringa oil is extracted from seeds of at least one of the following moringa species e.g. Moringa oleifera, Moringa pterygosperma, Moringa peregrina, Moringa concanensis or Moringa drouhardir, preferably from the seeds of Moringa oleifera or Moringa pterygosperma.
[0026] When contained in a personal care composition, moringa oil is present preferably from 0.01 to 2 wt%, preferably from 0.02 to 1.75 wt%, more preferably from 0.05 to 1.5 wt%, even more preferably from 0.075 to 1.25 wt% and alternatively from 0.75 to 1 wt%. It will be understood that the oil so contained in the composition may be an oil that is a mixture of oils extracted from one or more of Moringa species described above.
[0027] Alternately, by equally preferably the skin benefit agent is farnesol. When contained in a personal care composition, farnesol is preferably present in amounts from 0.0001 to 5 wt%, more preferably from 0.001 to 4.5 wt%, even more preferably from 0.01 to 4 wt%, further more preferably form 0.1 to 3.5 wt%, and still more preferably from 1 to 3 wt% e.g. 2 wt%. Farnesol is an organic compound containing 15 carbon atoms. It is an acyclic sesquiterpene alcohol.
[0028] Accordingly, in a second aspect, the present invention relates to use of a skin benefit agent in a personal care composition (the composition) for boosting skin’s night repair function wherein the skin benefit agent is selected from moringa oil, farnesol, an activator of peroxisome proliferator- activated receptor and mixtures thereof wherein the personal care composition is applied on to the skin at the end of the day from about 5 pm to about 12 am.
[0029] Leave-on
[0030] Preferably, the composition is a leave-on product. Examples of leave-on products include a cream, a lotion, a gel. More preferably, the composition is a leave-on product in the form of a cream. ‘Leave-on’ composition preferably means a composition which is not required to be removed from the surface it is applied on to, e.g. skin, after the application of the composition like e.g. skin cream, body lotion, hand sanitizer and deodorants.
[0031] If the composition is in the form of a cream, then it preferably comprises from 3 to 25 wt%, more preferably 4 to 22 wt%, even more preferably from 7 to 20 wt%, further more preferably from 10 to 19 wt% and still more preferably 12 to 18 wt% additional fatty acids. By ‘additional fatty acid, it is meant that a fatty acid other than those used as PPAR activators e.g. 12-hydroxystearic acid. Such fatty acids when present in the composition along with a soap, provide the so-called vanishing cream effect, i.e. a composition, when applied on to the human skin, vanishes on the skin leaving behind no significant streaks of the composition.
[0032] The additional fatty acid may be selected from fatty acids having carbon atoms preferably in the range 10 to 22, more preferably 12 to 22, even more preferably 14 to 22, further more preferably 16 to 22, yet more preferably from 18 to 22. Examples of such fatty acids that may be used in the composition include lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, arachidic, behenic, erucic acid and mixtures thereof. Alternatively, the fatty acid that may preferably be used is stearic acid or palmitic acid or a mixture thereof. The fatty acid in the present invention is preferably hysteric acid which is substantially (generally about 90 to 95%) a mixture of stearic acid and palmitic acid where amount of palmitic acid may range from 40 to 65% and that of stearic acid may range from 34 to 58%.
[0033] If the composition is in the form of a cream, then it preferably further comprises from 0.1 to 10 wt%, more preferably 1 to 8 wt%, even more preferably 2 to 7 wt%, further more preferably 2 to 6 wt%, even further more preferably 2 to 5 wt% and most preferably 2 to 4 wt% soap.
[0034] Soap when present in the combination with the additional fatty acids in the composition, it provides the so-called vanishing effect. Soap of the invention is generally prepared by in-situ neutralization of the additional fatty acids that may be present in the composition. Thus, it is preferred that the soap has a carbon chain length that corresponds to the chain length of the additional fatty acids in the composition. The soap is formed from the additional fatty acids through the use of alkali metal hydroxides e.g. sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide. Of the two, potassium hydroxide is more preferred. Thus, the soap is preferably a potassium soap (potassium salt of fatty acid).
[0035] Preferably, the leave-on composition of the invention comprises water. Amounts of water may preferably range from 10 to 95 wt%, more preferably from 15 to 85 wt%, even more preferably from 35 to 80 wt%, and further more preferably from 40 to 75 wt%.
[0036] The leave-on composition of the invention may be in the form of an emulsion e.g. a water-in-oil emulsion or an oil-in-water emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion. In such cases, the composition may include mineral oils, silicone oils, and synthetic oils. Amounts of these materials may range from 0.1 to 50 wt%, and preferably, from 0.1 to 30 wt%, and most preferably, from 1 to 20 wt%, including all ranges subsumed therein.
[0037] Silicone oils may be divided into the volatile and non-volatile varieties. The term “volatile” as used herein refers to those materials which have a measurable vapor pressure at ambient temperature. Volatile silicone oils are preferably chosen from cyclic or linear polydimethylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 9, and preferably, from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. Linear volatile silicone materials generally have viscosities of less than 5 centistokes at 25°C while cyclic materials typically have viscosities of less than 10 centistokes (measured with a Brookfield Viscometer, RV No. 3 spindle at 20 PRM, standardized to mineral oil and at 25°C).
[0038] Nonvolatile silicone oils useful as carrier material include polyalkyl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes and polyether siloxane copolymers. The essentially non-volatile polyalkyl siloxanes useful herein include, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes (like dimethicone, including crosspolymers and elastomers) with viscosities of from 5 to 100,000 centistokes at 25°C.
[0039] An often-preferred silicone source is a cyclopentasiloxane and dimethiconol solution.
[0040] The leave-on composition of the invention may further comprise emollients. Examples of emollients that may be used in the composition include stearyl alcohol, glyceryl monoricinoleate, mink oil, cetyl alcohol, isopropyl isostearate, isobutyl palmitate, isocetyl stearate, oleyl alcohol, isopropyl laurate, hexyl laurate, decyl oleate, octadecan-2-ol, isocetyl alcohol, eicosanyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, cetyl palmitate, silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxane, din-butyl sebacate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, butyl stearate, polyethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, lanolin, cocoa butter, corn oil, cotton seed oil, olive oil, palm kernel oil, rape seed oil, safflower seed oil, evening primrose oil, soybean oil, sunflower seed oil, avocado oil, sesame seed oil, coconut oil, arachis oil, castor oil, acetylated lanolin alcohols, petroleum jelly, mineral oil, butyl myristate, isopropyl linoleate, lauryl lactate, myristyl lactate, decyl oleate, myristyl myristate and mixtures thereof. Such emollients may preferably be present in amounts 0.1 to 30 wt%, more preferably from 1 to 25 wt%, even more preferably from 3 to 20 wt%, further more preferably from 5 to 15 wt% and still more preferably from 7 to 12 wt%.
[0041] Emulsifiers (or surfactants) may be present in leave-on compositions comprising the components of the present invention. Total concentration of the emulsifier, when used, may range from 0.1 to 30 wt%, and preferably, from 2 to 20 wt%, and most preferably, from 1 to 9 wt% by weight of the composition. The emulsifier may be selected from the group consisting of anionic, nonionic, cationic and amphoteric components. Particularly preferred nonionic components are those with a C10 to C20 fatty alcohol or acid hydrophobe condensed with from 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide per mole of hydrophobe; C2-C10 alkyl phenols condensed with from 2 to 20 moles of alkylene oxide; mono- and di-fatty acid esters of ethylene glycol; fatty acid monoglyceride; sorbitan, nono- and di- C8-C20 fatty acids; and polyoxyethylene sorbitan as well as combinations thereof. Alkyl polyglycosides and saccharide fatty amides (e.g. methyl gluconamides) are also suitable nonionic emulsifiers.
[0042] Preferred anionic emulsifiers include alkyl ether sulfate and sulfonates, alkyl sulfates and sulfonates, alkylbenzene sulfonates, alkyl and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, C8-C20 acyl isethionates, C8-C20 alkyl ether phosphates, alkylethercarboxylates and combinations thereof.
[0043] Cationic emulsifiers that may be used include, for example, palmitamidopropyltrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride and mixtures thereof. Useful amphoteric emulsifiers include cocoamidopropyl betaine, C12-C20 trialkyl betaines, sodium lauroamphoacetate, and sodium laurodiamphoacetate or a mixture thereof.
[0044] Other generally preferred emulsifiers include glyceryl stearate, glycol stearate, stearamide AMP, PEG-100 stearate, cetyl alcohol as well as emulsifying / thickening additives like hydroxyethylacrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurates copolymer / squalene and mixtures thereof.
[0045] Wash-off
[0046] Alternatively, the composition may be in the form of a wash-off composition. Examples of such wash-off composition include a hand-wash composition, a body-wash composition and a shampoo composition.
[0047] By ‘wash-off’, it is preferably meant that the composition applied on to a surface e.g. skin, is removed from the surface preferably with water. In other words, the surface is rinsed-off with water and the composition so applied is removed. Typically, if the composition is formulated in the form of a wash-off composition, then the composition so applied is removed preferably within 5 minutes, more preferably within 3 minutes, even more preferably within 1 minute and further more preferably within 30 seconds e.g. 10 or 15 seconds, of it being applied on a surface. If the composition is formulated in the form of a wash-off composition, e.g. a shampoo or wash composition, then the composition preferably comprises a surfactant. In such case, the composition preferably comprises surfactants in an amount from 3 to 80 wt%, more preferably from 5 to 75 wt%, even more preferably from 7 to 65 wt%, further more preferably form 10 to 60 wt%, still more preferably from 15 to 50 wt%, yet more preferably from 20 to 40 wt% surfactants and still further more preferably from 25 to 35 wt% surfactants.
[0048] Based on the whether the wash-off composition is formulated in a liquid format or a solid format, amounts and types of surfactants may vary.
[0049] For example, if the wash-off composition is formulated as a solid wash-off composition e.g. a bar, then the composition may comprise preferably from 25 to 70 wt%, preferably from 30 to 65 wt%, preferably from 35 to 60 wt%, preferably from 40 to 55 wt% surfactant e.g. a fatty acid soap and / or from 3 to 25 wt% non-soap synthetic surfactant whereby the bars typically comprise less than 15 wt% water.
[0050] Alternatively, for example, if the wash-off composition is formulated as a liquid wash-off composition e.g. hand-wash or body-wash composition, then the composition comprises from 5 to 20 wt%, more preferably from 6 to 18 wt%, even more preferably from 7 to 15 wt%, further more preferably from 9 to 14 wt% and still more preferably from 10 to 12 wt% surfactant.
[0051] Preferably, surfactants present in such wash-off compositions may be selected from an anionic surfactant, a nonionic surfactant, an amphoteric surfactant and mixtures thereof.
[0052] A suitable anionic surfactant may be selected from a soap and / or a non-soap synthetic anionic surfactant.
[0053] Examples of soap include soaps that may be used as anionic surfactants in a wash-off composition include those formed after saponification of fatty acids having carbon atoms in the range from C8 to C20 with an aqueous alkali e.g. sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and ammonium hydroxide. Typical examples of soap include caprylate (C8), caprates (C10), laurate (C12), myristate (C14), palmitate (C16, stearate (C18) and oleate (C18:1) formed with an aqueous alkali mentioned earlier. Thus, preferred soaps are selected from potassium caprylate, potassium caprate, potassium laurate, potassium myristate, potassium palmitate, potassium stearate, potassium oleate, sodium caprylate, sodium caprate, sodium laurate, sodium myristate, sodium palmitate sodium stearate, sodium oleate and mixtures thereof. Often, soaps may be present as a mixture of soaps formed from fatty acids of varying chain lengths.
[0054] Preferably, a non-soap synthetic anionic surfactants is selected from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates (AES), alpha olefin sulfonates (AOS), isethnionates, taurates and mixtures thereof.
[0055] Examples of alkyl sulfates that may be used as non-soap anionic surfactant in the composition include sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), sodium myristyl sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS); and mixtures thereof.
[0056] Examples of AES that may be used as non-soap anionic surfactants include anionic surfactants of the general formula:
[0057] R1-(OR’)n-O-SO3- M+, wherein:
[0058] R1 is saturated or unsaturated C8-C16, preferably C12-C14 alkyl chain; preferably, R1 is a saturated C8-C16, more preferably a saturated C12-C14 alkyl chain;
[0059] R’ is ethylene; n is from 1 to 18; preferably from 1 to 15, more preferably from 1 to 10 and even more preferably from 1 to 5,
[0060] M+ is a suitable cation which provides charge neutrality, preferably sodium, calcium, potassium, or magnesium, ammonium, more preferably a sodium cation or ammonium.
[0061] Examples of AES that may be used as non-soap anionic surfactants in the composition include sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES), sodium myristyl ether sulfate and sodium palmityl ether sulfate, ammonium lauryl ether sulfate (ALES) and mixtures thereof. Preferred AES is SLES having 1 to 3 ethylene oxide units per molecule. SLES having 1 to 2 ethylene oxide units per molecule is more preferred.
[0062] Examples of AOS that may be used as non-soap anionic surfactant in the composition include sodium olefin sulfonate. Examples of isethionate that may be used as non-soap anionic surfactant in the composition include, sodium lauryl isethionate; sodium cocoyl isethionate. Examples of taurates that may be used as non-soap anionic surfactant in the composition include sodium taurates such as sodium lauryl methyl taurate and sodium cocoyl methyl taurate.
[0063] Preferably, nonionic surfactants are selected from: fatty alcohol ethoxylates with saturated carbon chain and having HLB higher than
[0064] 15.5 e.g. Brij® 35 (also known as Brij® L23), fatty alcohol ethoxylates with unsaturated carbon chain with HLB higher than 12, e.g. Brij®97 and Brij®99, polyoxyethylene sorbitan alkyl esters with saturated C12 to C16 carbon chain and having HLB higher than 12; e.g. Tween® 20, polyoxyethylene sorbitan alkyl esters with unsaturated C18 carbon chain and having HLB higher than 9; e.g. Tween® 80, Tween® 81 ; and Tween® 85; and mixtures thereof.
[0065] Preferably, amphoteric surfactants are selected from betaine e.g. cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB), sulfobetaine, cocoamphoacetate and mixtures thereof. More preferably, amophoteric surfactants are selected from betaine, sulfobetaine and mixtures thereof. Further more preferably, amphoteric surfactants selected is CAPB. Amphoteric surfactants provide foam boost and improve sensorial properties of the composition.
[0066] If the composition is formulated as a wash-off composition, then it preferably comprises water in an amount from 50 to 95 wt%, more preferably from 60 to 90 wt%, even more preferably from 70 to 85 wt%, further more preferably from 75 to 80 wt% and still more preferably from 80 to 85 wt% water.
[0067] The compositions that are deodorants and / or antiperspirant products suitable to include the components of the present invention can be pump sprays, aerosol sprays, roll-ons, sticks, soft solids or gels made with conventional bases. When deodorant products, the same can comprise aluminium, nonaluminum active or both.
[0068] The composition comprising the skin benefit agents described above, preferably further comprises preservatives to protect against the growth of potentially harmful microorganisms. Examples of ingredients that may be used as preservatives in the composition include alkyl esters of para hydroxybenzoic acid, hydantoin derivatives, propionate salts, and a variety of quaternary ammonium compounds. More preferably, ingredients that may be used as preservative in the composition are sodium benzoate, iodopropynyl butyl carbamate, methylisothiazolinone, iodopropynylbutylcarbamate, phenoxyethanol, methyl paraben, propyl paraben, imidazolidinyl urea, sodium dehydroacetate, ethylhexylglycerin, benzyl alcohol, alkane diols and mixtures thereof. The alkane diols that are suitable for use as preservative are C6-C12 alkanes that are vicinally substituted with hydroxy groups. Illustrative examples include 1 ,2-octane diol (caprylyl glycol), 2,3-octane diol, 1 ,2-nonane diol, 1 ,2-decane diol, 1 ,2-hexane diol, 3,4-octane diol, mixtures thereof or the like where caprylyl glycol is typically the most preferred. When present in the composition, preservatives are added preferably in an amount 0.001 to 5 wt%, more preferably 0.01 to 3 wt% and most preferably 0.02 to 2 wt%.
[0069] Preferably, the composition further comprises one or more skin brightening agents. These one or more skin lightening agents may be selected from niacinamide, vitamin B6, vitamin C and its derivatives, vitamin A and derivatives (retinol and retinol esters), vitamin E, resorcinol, phenyl ethyl resorcinol, substituted resorcinol e.g. 4-alkyl substituted resorcinol such as 4-ethyl resorcinol (ER), 4-butyl resorcinol (BR), 4-hexyl resorcinol (HR), glutathione precursors, galardin, adapalene, aloe extract, ammonium lactate, arbutin, azelaic acid, butyl hydroxy anisole, butyl hydroxy toluene, citrate esters, deoxyarbutin, 1 ,3-diphenyl propane derivatives, 2,5- dihydroxybenzoic acid and its derivatives, 2-(4-acetoxyphenyl)-1 ,3-dithiane, 2-(4-hydroxyphenyl)- 1 ,3-dithiane, ellagic acid, gluco pyranosyl-1 -ascorbate, gluconic acid, glycolic acid, green tea extract, 4-Hydroxy-5-methyl-3[2H]-furanone, 4-hydroxyanisole and its derivatives, 4- hydroxybenzoic acid derivatives, hydroxycaprylic acid, inositol ascorbate, lactic acid, linoleic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, 5-octanoyl salicylic acid, salicylic acid, 3,4,5-trihydroxybenzyl derivatives, acetylglucosamine, pitera extract, symwhite, calcium pantothenate (Melano-block), seppiwhite and mixtures thereof. Preferably, skin lightening agents that may be used in the composition are niacinamide, vitamin B6, 4-ethyl resorcinol (ER), 4-butyl resorcinol (BR), 4-hexyl resorcinol (HR), and mixtures thereof. Such one or more skin brightening agents may preferably be present in an amount from 0.1 to 10 wt%, more preferably from 1 to 7 wt% and even more preferably from 3 to 5 wt%.
[0070] Preferably, the composition further comprises a humectant selected from glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, propanediol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, hyaluronic acid, sorbitol and mixtures thereof. More preferably, a humectant is selected from glycerol, pentylene glycol, butylene glycol and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the composition comprises from 0.1 to 20 wt%, more preferably from 1 to 18 wt%, even more preferably from 3 to 15 wt%, further more preferably form 5 to 12 wt% and still more preferably 7 to 10 wt% of one or more humectants described above.
[0071] Preferably, the composition further comprises a polymer. The polymer acts as thickener in the composition and improves sensorial properties of the composition. The polymer is preferably selected from the following classes: • acrylate I R-methacrylate copolymer e.g. acrylates / steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer (commercially available as AculynTM 22) and acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer (commercially available as AculynTM 28),
[0072] • acrylate I R-methacrylate crosspolymer e.g. acrylates / steareth-20 methacrylate crosspolymer (commercially available as AculynTM 88),
[0073] • acrylates copolymer (commercially available as AculynTM 33),
[0074] • acrylate / R-alkyl acrylate crosspolymer e.g. acrylates / C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer (commercially available as PemulenTM TR-2),
[0075] • copolymer of ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate with vinyl pyrrolidone (commercially available as Aristoflex® AVC),
[0076] • copolymer of sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate with vinyl pyrrolidone (commercially available as Aristoflex® A VS); and
[0077] • crosspolymer of acryloyldimethyltaurate with R-alkyl acrylate and methyacrylate e.g. Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / beheneth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer (commercially available as Aristoflex® HMB and Aristoflex® BLV); and mixtures thereof.
[0078] Alternatively, the composition may comprise cellulose based thickeners such as hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose and mixtures thereof.
[0079] More preferably, the polymer is selected from acrylate I R-methacrylate copolymer, acrylates copolymer and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the composition comprises 0.1 to 5 wt%, more preferably 0.5 to 4.5 wt%, even more preferably 1 to 4 wt%, further more preferably from 1.5 to 3.5 wt%, still more preferably from 2 to 3 wt% of these polymers.
[0080] The composition may further comprise a range of other optional ingredients that include antioxidants, binders, buffering agents, colorants, astringents, fragrance, opacifying agents, conditioners, exfoliating agents, skin soothing agents, and skin healing agents.
[0081] In a third aspect, the present invention relates to a method of boosting skin’s night repair function wherein the method comprises: a. a step of applying a skin benefit agent or the personal care composition comprising the same, to the skin; and b. optionally, rinsing off the composition, wherein, the skin benefit agent is selected from moringa oil, farnesol, an activator of peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor and mixtures thereof; and wherein step a., is carried out at the end of the day from about 5 pm to about 12 am.
[0082] The first step, step a., is carried out, i.e. the skin benefit agents or a personal care composition comprising the same, are applied on to the skin at the end of the day from about 5 pm to about 12 am, preferably from 6 pm to about 11 :30 pm, more preferably from 7 pm to about 11 :00 pm, even more preferably from 8 pm to about 10:30 pm, yet more preferably from about 9 pm to about 10:00 pm.
[0083] The step of application may be carried out simply by taking a suitable amount of the composition e.g. on hands and gently spreading it over the area of skin. The composition, if required, may also be applied using an applicator in which case, a user is expected to use the applicator so provided to carry out the step of applying the composition; and spread the composition using the applicator on the skin. As described hereinabove, skin includes skin on the face, feet, neck, chest, arms (including under arms), hands, legs, buttocks, back and scalp (including hair).
[0084] The method comprises an optional step, step b., where the composition so applied in step a., is optionally rinsed off from the skin surface it was applied on to.
[0085] If the method comprises step b., then, it is preferably carried out after 60 minutes, more preferably after 45 minutes, even more preferably after 30 minutes, further more preferably after 15 minutes and yet more preferably after 5 minutes from carrying out step a.
[0086] Alternatively, step b., may preferably be carried out within 5 minutes, more preferably within 4 minutes, even more preferably within 3 minutes, further more preferably within 2 minutes and yet more preferably within 1 minute e.g. 30 seconds, or 15 seconds, from carrying out step a.
[0087] Such optional step b. is particularly required if the composition is formulated into a wash-off type of composition e.g. a face wash composition.
[0088] All the use or the method described in the present invention are preferably non-therapeutic or cosmetic in nature.
[0089] It is found that when the skin benefit agents described hereinabove; or the personal care composition comprising the same, are used as per the method of the present invention, it boosted skin’s night repair function.
[0090] The following Examples are provided to further illustrate an understanding of the invention. The Examples are not intended to limit the scope of the claims.
[0091] Examples
[0092] The effect of the use or the method of treating the skin as per the preset invention was studied as follows: A gene expression study was carried out for genes: skin circadian rhythm gene (BMAL1 ; NCBI database accession number NM_001297719), autophagy (LC3B; NCBI database accession number NG_029030); DNA repair (XPA; NCBI database accession number NM_000380) and cell proliferation (CCND1 / Cyclin D1 ; NCBI database accession number NM_053056).
[0093] Moringa oil extracted from seeds of Moringa oleifera, was obtained from Naturex, France, commercially available under their reference number LA030075, a part of Givaudan.
[0094] Protocol for gene expression study:
[0095] The primary keratinocytes (from Lonza) were seeded into 12 well plates. After attaining 70 to 80% confluency, cells were synchronized with dexamethasone and post which differentiation was induced using high calcium media. Then cells were treated without and with actives in the evening as shown in the tables below; followed by exposure to stress / pollution conditions as mentioned below followed by harvesting cells in RLT lysis buffer respectively as described below. The harvested samples were then processed for RNA isolation, cDNA synthesis, and gene expression studies. All the incubations were carried out at 37°C under 5% CO2.
[0096] Total RNA isolation:
[0097] RNA was isolated as per the QIAGEN RNA ISOLATION (RNAeasy Mini kit) protocol. Cells were lysed and harvested in RLT lysis buffer and stored at minus 80°C until used for RNA isolation. cDNA synthesis:
[0098] The cDNA was synthesized as per the iScript cDNA synthesis kit from Bio-Rad. Briefly, 1 pg of total RNA was used for cDNA synthesis. The following mixture was prepared for one reaction and the total volume was made up to 20 pL.
[0099] Quantification of gene expression in primary keratinocytes:
[0100] For the quantitative analysis of the genes, RT-PCR was carried out using the SYBR Green master mix from Bio-Rad. The master mix with the forward and reverse primers and cDNA template were all brought to room temperature. The assay master mix was prepared on ice by adding all the components in a definite volume according to the manufacturer’s instructions. The PCR reaction was carried out in a Bio-Rad qPCR machine (CFX96). The fold change in gene expression was calculated with respect to the housekeeping gene (GAPDH) using the 2AAACt method.
[0101] The effect of 12HSA, farnesol and Moringa oil, in boosting skin’s night repair function was found to be as provided in table 1 below. Briefly, normal human epidermal primary keratinocytes (NHEK; Lonza) were treated with the benefit agents as shown in table 1 below at around 7:30 pm ± 30 min; for 12 hours ± 30 min. After that, cells were exposed to stress conditions, e.g. cortisol 1 (pM), for 12 hours ± 30 min; and RT-PCR for said genes were carried out thereafter. The results obtained were as shown in table 1 below:
[0102] Table 1
[0103] The data above showed that when keratinocytes were treated with the skin benefit agents in the night; and then exposed to stress exerted by cortisol, the gene expression levels of the four genes were found to be more than the expression levels of the same genes in keratinocytes that were treated with cortisol alone. The data also showed that the gene expression levels so obtained, were more than the expression levels obtained from the untreated control. Thus, when keratinocytes were treated with the skin benefit agents at the end of the day as described above, it was found that the skin benefit agents boosted skin’s night repair function. It was also found that such boost in skin’s night repair function was found despite the skin was exposed to stress and pollution.
Claims
Claims:
1. Use of a skin benefit agent for boosting skin’s night repair function, wherein the skin benefit agent is selected from moringa oil, farnesol, an activator of peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor and mixtures thereof; and wherein the skin benefit agent is applied on to the skin at the end of the day from about 5 pm to about 12 am.
2. Use according to claim 1 wherein the skin benefit agent is an activator of peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor.
3. Use according to claims 1 or 2 wherein the activator of peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor is selected from petroselinic acid, conjugated linoleic acid, a hydroxystearic acid, ricinoleic acid or a mixture thereof.
4. Use according to claim 3 wherein the activator of peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor is selected from a hydroxystearic acid, preferably 10-hydroxystearic acid, 12- hydroxystearic acid and mixtures thereof.
5. Use according to claim 4 wherein the activator of peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor is 12-hydroxystearic acid.
6. Use according to claim 1 wherein the skin benefit agent is Moringa oil.
7. Use according to claim 1 or 6 wherein the moringa oil is extracted from seeds of at least one of Moringa oleifera, Moringa pterygosperma, Moringa peregrina, Moringa concanensis or Moringa drouhardii; preferably from the seeds of Moringa oleifera or Moringa pterygosperma.
8. Use according to claim 1 wherein the skin benefit agent is farnesol.
9. Use of a personal care composition comprising a skin benefit agent for boosting skin’s night repair function wherein the skin benefit agent is selected from moringa oil, farnesol, an activator of peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor and mixtures thereof; and wherein the personal care composition is applied on to the skin at the end of the day from about 5 pm to about 12 am.
10. Use of the composition as claimed in claim 9 wherein the composition is a leave-on composition in the form of a cream, a lotion, or a gel, preferably a cream.
11. Use of the composition as claimed in claim 9 wherein the composition is a wash-off composition comprising 3 to 80 wt% of a surfactant.
12. A method of boosting skin’s night repair function wherein the method comprises: a. a step of applying a skin benefit agent or a personal care composition comprising the same, to the skin; and b. optionally, rinsing off the composition, wherein, the skin benefit agent is selected from moringa oil, farnesol, an activator of peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor and mixtures thereof; and wherein step a., is carried out at the end of the day from about 5 pm to about 12 am.
Citation Information
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