Fixed-point track line allocation method

Through the fixed-point track line collaring method, the problem of difficult to grasp the collar shoulder depression and collar upper fit in the prior art is solved, and the accuracy of collar design and the aesthetics of the structure are achieved.

CN114081226BActive Publication Date: 2025-03-28陈观众
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Patent Information

Application Number
CN202111397558.4
Authority / Receiving Office
CN · China
Patent Type
Patents(China)
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2021-11-23
Publication Date
2025-03-28
Estimated Expiration
2041-11-23

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

The existing clothing plate making technology can easily cause uneven collar seats on the collar shoulders, and it is difficult to accurately grasp the fit between the upper part of the collar and the neck. The lapel angle calculation is complex and difficult to grasp.

Method used

The fixed-point track line collaring method is used to determine the collar height and collar length of the collar in advance, and a rectangular object is taken to form a specific track line around the neck and shoulders as the track line, and the track line position is adjusted to generate the final collar nest shape line and collar model.

Benefits of technology

It realizes the accurate grasp of the collar design from collar design to the finished collar shape, improves the accuracy of collar design and the aesthetics of the structure, and simplifies the collar matching process of the collar.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Abstract

The present invention discloses a method for matching collars with fixed-point track lines. Through the method, the three-dimensional modeling has a three-dimensional effect, and the two-dimensional plane plate making is simple, accurate and operable. The collar design from the design drawing to the sample structure design is well mastered to generate a finished paper pattern. In the three-dimensional structure part, the designer can intuitively feel the design effect that the designer wants to express; in the plane production, the rationality of the garment process technology processing and the beauty of the lines and silhouettes of the internal structure design can be fully reflected. The corresponding relationship between the collar opening modeling and the collar hole line modeling of the body is the technical point of matching the collar, and it is also the innovative thinking of the present invention, which reverses the conventional idea of ​​first determining the collar hole modeling line and then matching the collar, and has obvious advancement and rationality.
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Description

[Technical field]

[0001] The invention relates to the technical field of clothing plate making, in particular to the technical field of collar matching method. [Background technology]

[0002] There are many different designs for clothing collars, which can be basically summarized into collarless, stand-up collars, and lapel collars. For clothing pattern-making technicians, stand-up collars and lapel collars are often encountered, and they are also the most important collar matching techniques to master. The corresponding relationship between the collar opening shape and the collar nest shape of the body is the technical key point of collar matching.

[0003] For example, a Chinese invention patent with publication number CN104770926B proposes a method for making a collar pattern for a stand-up collar garment, which adopts the following steps: determining points and lines: line segment AB is the shoulder line, point A is the neck point, point B is the shoulder point, arc segment BC is the armhole line, arc segment AD is the collar line, and line segment DK is the front placket line; making a pattern: taking point A' on line AB so that the distance range of AA' is 0.4 to 0.6 cm, taking point B' on the extension line of AB so that BB'=AA', taking point D' on arc line DA so that the distance range of DD' is 0.2 to 0.3 cm; making arc A'F through point A' to intersect with the collar line AD, making arc B'E through point B' to intersect with the armhole line BC, and making arc D'H through point D' to intersect with the front placket line DK. However, the existing methods including the above inventions are mostly based on the idea of ​​first determining the collar shape line and then matching the collar. The conventional collar matching method easily causes the collar seat (the standing collar is the collar height) to be concave and uneven at the collar shoulder, and the degree to which the collar upper opening is close to the neck cannot be accurately determined, and the calculation of the lapel angle is too complicated and difficult to determine. [Summary of the invention]

[0004] The purpose of the present invention is to solve the problems in the prior art and propose a fixed-point track line collar matching method to provide a solution to the problem of accurately grasping the collar shape design to the finished collar shape, which is helpful for clothing plate-making technicians to understand the collar shape design principles and changes, and achieve the three technical requirements of accurately grasping the collar shape design, accurately constructing the collar structure design, and quickly matching the collar.

[0005] To achieve the above object, the present invention proposes a method for allocating a fixed-point track line, comprising the following steps:

[0006] Step S1, according to the collar style design requirements, predetermine the collar base height or stand-up collar width, collar length and the distance requirement for the collar to fit the neck;

[0007] Step S2, according to the collar shape design requirements, take a rectangular object, the length of the rectangular object is equal to the length required for one circle of the collar shape design or half of the length required for one circle of the collar shape design;

[0008] Step S3, laying the garment body pattern or fabric with the basic collar line drawn on a mannequin or a human body;

[0009] Step S4, according to the design requirements, select a point on the collar hole line of the body pattern or fabric as the back collar fixed point:

[0010] Step S5, according to the design requirements, a point corresponding to the back collar fixed point is taken on a long side of the rectangular object and connected to the back collar fixed point, the rectangular object is extended from the back collar fixed point as the starting point around the neck and shoulder to the front center line or the placket stop line, the position of the rectangular object is adjusted and fixed according to the appearance requirements of the collar upper opening and the distance requirements of the collar upper opening fitting the neck in the collar shape design requirements, a specific track line formed between the rectangular object and the body pattern or fabric is drawn as the track line, and the basic adjacent seat silhouette is determined;

[0011] Step S6, designing the collar shape according to the style design requirements, and generating the final collar shape line and collar template based on the position of the track line adjusted according to the collar shape.

[0012] Preferably, the width of the rectangular object is equal to the back collar height or the inner collar height of the lapel of the desired collar design.

[0013] Preferably, the design point of the back garment collar line is a point whose distance is the distance from the midpoint of the back collar hole to the collar design point as the back collar fixed point according to design requirements.

[0014] Preferably, the rear collar fixed point is a point on the center line of the back of the human body at a distance from the seventh cervical vertebra point of the human body to the collar design point according to design requirements as the rear collar fixed point.

[0015] Preferably, in step S5, when the length of the rectangular object is half of the length required for one circle of collar design, any long side endpoint of the rectangular object is connected to the back collar fixed point.

[0016] Preferably, in step S5, when the length of the rectangular object is the length required for one circle of collar design, the symmetrical collar can directly measure the midpoint of any long side of the rectangular object and connect it with the fixed point of the back collar; the asymmetrical collar can measure the required collar lengths of the left and right collars at both ends of any long side, then take the intersection point of the collars on both sides and connect it with the fixed point of the back collar.

[0017] Preferably, in step S5, when the collar to be designed is a symmetrical collar, half of it is first made with the rear collar fixed point as the boundary, and the other half is directly copied symmetrically.

[0018] Preferably, in step S5, when the collar to be designed is an asymmetric collar, the left and right collars are respectively manufactured with the rear collar fixed point as the boundary.

[0019] Preferably, the step S6 includes three-dimensional construction, designing and producing a three-dimensional collar shape according to style requirements using clothing plate making materials, and fixing the three-dimensional collar shape on the body pattern or fabric with the track line as a reference, adjusting the fixed position of the three-dimensional collar shape and the body pattern or fabric according to style requirements, drawing points and lines to draw the collar shape line, and recording data of each part.

[0020] Preferably, the step S6 also includes plane composition, converting the three-dimensional shape into a two-dimensional plane model according to the data of each part recorded in the three-dimensional composition, and completing the collar sample design according to the style design and production process technology requirements.

[0021] Preferably, the distance requirement for the collar to fit the neck in step S1 includes the distance between the back collar and the neck and the distance between the collar and the neck.

[0022] Beneficial effects of the fixed-point track line collar matching method of the present invention: The present invention has a three-dimensional modeling three-dimensional effect through the fixed-point track line collar matching method, and also has the convenience, accuracy and operability of two-dimensional plane plate making, and can well grasp the collar from design drawings to sample structure design to generate finished paper patterns. The three-dimensional structure part can intuitively feel the design effect that the designer wants to express; in the plane production, it can fully reflect the rationality of the garment process technology processing and the beauty of the lines and silhouettes of the internal structure design. The innovative thinking of the present invention reverses the conventional idea of ​​first determining the collar shape line and then matching the collar, and is obviously advanced and reasonable.

[0023] The features and advantages of the present invention will be described in detail through embodiments in conjunction with the accompanying drawings.

Brief Description of the Drawings

[0024] Figure 1 It is a flow chart of the fixed-point track line matching method of the present invention.

[0025] Figure 2 This is a design effect diagram of the first embodiment of the present invention.

[0026] Figure 3 It is an effect diagram of the basic garment body paper pattern or fabric of the present invention being laid flat on a human body model or a human body.

[0027] Figure 4 It is a schematic diagram of a rectangular object, a rear collar fixed point, a collar upper opening shape, and a track line in an embodiment of the present invention.

[0028] Figure 5 It is a schematic diagram of a three-dimensional modeling of a three-dimensional structure according to an embodiment of the present invention.

[0029] Figure 6 It is a schematic diagram of a two-dimensional plane model of a plane structure according to an embodiment of the present invention.

[0030] Figure 7 It is a schematic diagram of the collar type template design process of Example 1 of the present invention.

[0031] Figure 8 It is a schematic diagram of a finished collar sample according to Embodiment 1 of the present invention.

[0032] Fig. 9 This is a design effect diagram of the second embodiment of the present invention.

[0033] Fig.10 It is a schematic diagram of a rectangular object, a rear collar fixed point, a collar upper opening shape, and a track line according to a second embodiment of the present invention.

[0034] Fig.11 It is a schematic diagram of a three-dimensional modeling of a second embodiment of the present invention.

[0035] Fig.12 It is a schematic diagram of a two-dimensional plane model of a plane structure according to the second embodiment of the present invention.

[0036] Fig.13 It is a schematic diagram of the collar type sample design process of the second embodiment of the present invention.

[0037] Fig.14 It is a schematic diagram of a finished collar sample according to Embodiment 2 of the present invention.

[0038] Fig.15 This is a style effect diagram of the third embodiment of the present invention.

[0039] Fig.16 It is a schematic diagram of a rectangular object, a rear collar fixed point, a collar upper opening shape, and a track line according to a third embodiment of the present invention.

[0040] Fig.17 It is a schematic diagram of a three-dimensional modeling of a third embodiment of the present invention.

[0041] Fig.18 It is a schematic diagram of a two-dimensional plane model constructed by a third plane in embodiment of the present invention.

[0042] Fig.19 It is a schematic diagram of the collar type sample design process of embodiment 3 of the present invention.

[0043] Fig. 20 Schematic diagram of a finished collar sample according to Embodiment 3 of the present invention. [Specific implementation method]

[0044] In order to make the purpose, technical scheme and advantages of the present invention clearer, the present invention is further described in detail below through the accompanying drawings and embodiments. However, it should be understood that the specific embodiments described herein are only used to explain the present invention and are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention. In addition, in the following description, the description of known structures and technologies is omitted to avoid unnecessary confusion of the concept of the present invention.

[0045] In the description of the present invention, it should be noted that when an element is referred to as being "fixed to" or "disposed on" another element, it may be directly on the other element or indirectly on the other element. When an element is referred to as being "connected to" another element, it may be directly connected to the other element or indirectly connected to the other element.

[0046] In the description of the present invention, it should be noted that the terms "center", "length", "width", "thickness", "up", "down", "front", "back", "left", "right", "vertical", "horizontal", "top", "bottom", "inside", "outside" and the like indicate positions or positional relationships based on the positions or positional relationships shown in the accompanying drawings, or the positions or positional relationships in which the invention product is usually placed when in use, which are only for the convenience of describing the present invention and simplifying the description, rather than indicating or implying that the device or element referred to must have a specific orientation, be constructed and operated in a specific orientation, and therefore cannot be understood as limiting the present invention. In addition, the terms "first", "second", "third" and the like are only used to distinguish descriptions, and cannot be understood as indicating or implying relative importance. . Therefore, the features defined as "first" and "second" may explicitly or implicitly include one or more of the features. In the description of the present invention, the meaning of "multiple" is two or more, unless otherwise clearly and specifically defined. The meaning of "several" is one or more, unless otherwise clearly and specifically defined.

[0047] In the description of the present invention, it should be noted that, unless otherwise clearly specified and limited, the terms "set", "install", "connected" and "connected" should be understood in a broad sense. For example, it can be a fixed connection, a detachable connection, or an integral connection; it can be a mechanical connection or an electrical connection; it can be a direct connection, or it can be indirectly connected through an intermediate medium, or it can be the internal connection of two components. It should also be noted that the upper collar shape refers to the appearance shape of the upper collar shape (including the front upper collar shape and the back upper collar shape); the degree of the upper collar fit to the neck refers to the distance between the upper collar and the neck; the basic collar line is the collar line of the prototype of the body or the circumference of the human neck; the collar line of the body refers to the collar shape line where the collar and the body are spliced; for ordinary technicians in this field, the specific meanings of the above terms in the present invention can be understood according to specific circumstances.

[0048] Embodiment 1:

[0049] See also Figure 1-Figure 8 When the fixed-point track line collar matching method of the present invention is used for standing collar matching, it includes the following steps:

[0050] Step S1, see Figure 2 According to the design requirements of the stand-up collar, the width of the collar is 3.5CM, the length of the collar is 43CM, and the distance between the collar and the neck is 0.5CM, and the distance between the collar shoulder and the neck is 0.8CM. The stand-up collar of this embodiment is a symmetrical stand-up collar, so only half of it needs to be made.

[0051] Step S2, see Figure 4 According to the design requirements of the stand-up collar, a rectangular object is taken. The length of the rectangular object is equal to half of the length required for the stand-up collar design, that is, 21.5CM. The width of the rectangular object is equal to the height of the stand-up collar design, 3.5CM. This embodiment is a symmetrical collar, and only half of it needs to be made, so the length of the rectangular object can be half of the length required for the collar design. Among them, the rectangular object is an object that is conducive to shaping the collar and can be manipulated, such as hard cardboard, kraft paper, medium-thin sponge, soft plastic, etc.

[0052] Step S3, see Figure 3 , determine the collar style. Lay the body pattern or fabric with the basic collar line drawn on the mannequin or body.

[0053] Step S4, see Figure 4 According to the design requirements, take the point 0.5CM below the design center of the collar line on the body pattern or fabric as the back collar fixed point.

[0054] Step S5, see Figure 4 and Figure 5 , according to the design requirements. Connect one end point of the rectangular object to the fixed point of the back collar, extend the rectangular object around the neck and shoulder with the fixed point of the back collar as the starting point, extend it to the front center line, extend it to the shoulder, and then extend it to the placket stop line. According to the collar shape design requirements, the appearance requirements of the middle collar type upper mouth and the distance requirements of the collar upper mouth fitting the neck, adjust the position of the rectangular object and fix it, and draw the specific collar nest trajectory line formed between the rectangular object and the body pattern or fabric as the track line. The track line includes the back collar track line and the front collar track line in the figure. And mark the vertical line where the track line and the placket stop line intersect, and mark the collar shoulder vertical line. Determine the basic adjacent seat silhouette, and then remove the rectangular object. Among them, the specific adjustment of the distance of the collar upper mouth fitting the neck includes adjusting the distance between the collar shoulder and the neck and the distance between the back collar and the neck.

[0055] Step S6, designing the collar shape according to the style design requirements, and generating the final collar shape line and collar template based on the collar shape adjustment track line position. Specifically including:

[0056] Step S6-1, see Figure 5 , three-dimensional structure, according to the style requirements, use the three-dimensional cutting mark line to design and produce a three-dimensional collar shape, first determine the shape of the upper and lower collars, and use the track line as a reference to fix the three-dimensional collar shape on the body pattern or fabric. Adjust the collar shape and the fixed position of the body pattern or fabric according to the style requirements. In order to improve the fit of the stand-up collar, the intersection of the collar piece and the placket stop line is moved up by 2.2CM to make the collar corners fit the neck better, and the collar corners are rounded, and the collar length is adjusted according to the front collar shape of the body. After the adjustment is completed, the intersection line of the three-dimensional collar shape and the body pattern or fabric is drawn as the collar shape line, and the data of each part is recorded. In this embodiment, the three-dimensional cutting mark line is used as the clothing plate making material, which is more convenient to use and does not require cutting cloth. In the specific implementation, the fabric can also be directly cut into a design effect collar.

[0057] Step S6-2, see Figure 6 , Figure 7 and Figure 8 , plane composition, according to the data of each part recorded in the three-dimensional composition, the three-dimensional model is converted into a two-dimensional plane model. You can choose to make the plate manually or input the CAD computer plate making software, and complete the collar model design according to the style design and production process technology requirements. Figure 8 The paper pattern shown. The fixed-point track line collar matching method of this embodiment has three-dimensional modeling three-dimensional effect, and has the convenience, accuracy and operability of two-dimensional plane plate making. It is very good to master the collar from design drawings to sample structure design to generate finished paper patterns. In the three-dimensional structure part, the designer can intuitively feel the design effect he wants to express; in the plane production, it can fully reflect the rationality of the garment process technology processing and the beauty of the lines and silhouettes of the internal structure design.

[0058] Embodiment 2:

[0059] See also Figure 9-14 When the fixed-point track line collar matching method of the present invention is used for lapel matching, it comprises the following steps:

[0060] Step S1, see Fig. 9 , Fig.10 According to the lapel design requirements, the collar base height of 3.5CM, the collar length of 81CM and the distance between the collar and the neck are determined in advance, and the distance between the collar and the neck is 0.5CM, and the distance between the collar shoulder and the neck is 0.8CM. The lapel of this embodiment is a symmetrical standing collar with left and right symmetry.

[0061] So just make half of it.

[0062] Step S2, see Fig.10According to the lapel design requirements, a rectangular object is taken. The length of the rectangular object is equal to half of the length required for the lapel design, that is, 40.5CM. The width of the rectangular object is equal to the height of the lapel design, 3.5CM. This embodiment is a symmetrical collar, and only half of it needs to be made, so the length of the rectangular object can be half of the length required for the collar design.

[0063] Step S3, determining the collar style and shape. Lay the garment body pattern or fabric with the basic collar hole line drawn on the mannequin or the human body.

[0064] Step S4, see Fig.10 According to the design requirements, take the point 0.5CM below the design center of the back collar line on the collar line of the body pattern or fabric as the back collar fixed point.

[0065] Step S5, see Fig.10 , according to the design requirements. Connect the end point of one side of the rectangular object to the fixed point of the back collar, and extend the rectangular object around the neck and shoulder with the fixed point of the back collar as the starting point, extend it to the front center line, extend it to the shoulder, and then extend it to the door stop line. This embodiment is a suit collar. According to the characteristics of the suit collar, the front collar part of the rectangular object is tilted downward. According to the collar shape design requirements, the appearance requirements of the middle collar type upper mouth and the distance requirements of the collar upper mouth fitting the neck, adjust the position of the rectangular object and fix it, and draw a specific collar nest trajectory line formed between the rectangular object and the body paper pattern or fabric as the track line. The track line includes the back collar track line and the front collar track line in the figure. And mark the vertical line where the track line and the placket stop line intersect, and mark the collar shoulder vertical line. Determine the basic adjacent seat profile, and then remove the rectangular object. Among them, the specific adjustment of the distance of the collar upper mouth fitting the neck includes adjusting the distance of the collar shoulder from the neck and the distance of the back collar from the neck.

[0066] Step S6, designing the collar shape according to the style design requirements, and generating the final collar shape line and collar template based on the collar shape adjustment track line position. Specifically including:

[0067] Step S6-1, see Fig.11 , three-dimensional structure, according to the style requirements, use the three-dimensional cutting mark line to design and produce a three-dimensional collar type, first determine the shape of the upper and lower collar openings, and fix the collar shape on the body pattern or fabric with the track line as a reference. Adjust the collar shape and the fixed position of the body pattern or fabric according to the style requirements. After the adjustment is completed, draw the intersection line between the collar piece and the body pattern or fabric as the collar nest modeling line, and then design the lapel according to the collar appearance modeling requirements, and finally design the collar seat upper opening dividing line according to the process production technical requirements, and record the data of each part. This embodiment uses the three-dimensional cutting mark line as the clothing plate making material, which is more convenient to use and does not require cutting cloth. In the specific implementation, the fabric can also be directly cut into a design effect collar.

[0068] Step S6-2, see Fig.12 and Fig.13 , plane composition, according to the data of each part recorded in the stand-up collar composition, the three-dimensional shape is converted into a two-dimensional plane model. You can choose to make the plate manually or input the CAD computer plate making software, and complete the collar model design according to the style design and production process technology requirements. Fig.14 The paper pattern shown. The fixed-point track line collar matching method of this embodiment has three-dimensional modeling three-dimensional effect, and has the convenience, accuracy and operability of two-dimensional plane plate making. It is very good to master the collar from design drawings to sample structure design to generate finished paper patterns. In the three-dimensional structure part, the designer can intuitively feel the design effect he wants to express; in the plane production, it can fully reflect the rationality of the garment process technology processing and the beauty of the lines and silhouettes of the internal structure design.

[0069] Embodiment three:

[0070] See also Figure 14-Figure 19 When the fixed-point track line collar matching method of the present invention is used for asymmetric collar matching, it includes the following steps:

[0071] Step S1, see Fig.15 According to the design requirements of asymmetrical collars, the collar base height of 3.5CM, the collar length of 61CM and the distance between the collar and the neck are determined in advance. The distance between the back collar and the neck is 0.5CM, and the distance between the collar shoulder and the neck is 0.8CM. The collar of this embodiment is asymmetrical, so a complete collar needs to be made. In this embodiment, the collar shape requirements are that the front right side is a lapel shape with a length of 40.5CM, and the front left side is a stand-up collar shape with a length of 20.5CM.

[0072] Step S2, see Fig.16 According to the lapel design requirements, a rectangular object is taken. The length of the rectangular object is equal to 61CM, which is the length required for the lapel design. The width of the rectangular object is equal to the height of the lapel design, which is 3.5CM. This embodiment is an asymmetrical collar. Therefore, a complete collar needs to be made, and the length of the rectangular object is the length required for the collar design.

[0073] Step S3, determining the collar style and shape. Lay the garment body pattern or fabric with the basic collar hole line drawn on the mannequin or the human body.

[0074] Step S4, see Fig.16 According to the design requirements, take the design center point of the back collar line on the collar line of the body pattern or fabric as the back collar fixed point.

[0075] Step S5, see Fig.16According to the design requirements, measure the required collar lengths of the left and right collars at both ends of one long side of the rectangular object, take the intersection point and connect it to the fixed point of the back collar. Take the rectangular objects on the left and right sides as the starting point, extend them around the neck and shoulders to the front center line, extend them to the shoulders, and then extend them to the front center line. According to the collar design requirements, the appearance requirements of the middle collar type upper mouth and the distance requirements of the collar upper mouth fitting the neck, adjust the position of the rectangular object and fix it, and draw the specific collar nest track line formed between the rectangular object and the body pattern or fabric as the back collar track line and the front right collar track line and the front left collar track line. And mark the vertical line at the intersection of the track line and the placket stop line, and mark the collar shoulder vertical line. Determine the basic adjacent seat profile, and then remove the rectangular object. Among them, the specific adjustment of the distance of the collar upper mouth fitting the neck includes adjusting the distance of the collar shoulder from the neck and the distance of the back collar from the neck.

[0076] Step S6, designing the collar shape according to the style design requirements, and generating the final collar shape line and collar template based on the collar shape adjustment track line position. Specifically including:

[0077] Step S6-1, see Fig.17 , three-dimensional structure, according to the style requirements, use the three-dimensional cutting mark line to design and produce a three-dimensional collar shape, according to the front right lapel shape design requirements, use the mark line to design the lapel shape; according to the front left stand-up collar shape design requirements, use the mark line to design the stand-up collar shape, and record the data of each part. This embodiment uses the three-dimensional cutting mark line as the clothing plate making material, which is more convenient to use and does not require cutting cloth. In specific implementation, the fabric can also be directly cut into a design effect collar.

[0078] Step S6-2, see Fig.18 and Fig.19 , plane composition, according to the data of each part recorded in the stand-up collar composition, the three-dimensional shape is converted into a two-dimensional plane model. You can choose to make the plate manually or input the CAD computer plate making software, and complete the collar model design according to the style design and production process technology requirements. Fig. 20 This method can also perfectly cope with the pattern making of asymmetrical collars, reducing the difficulty and complexity of collar pattern making, and it is very good to master the collar design from design drawings to sample structure design.

[0079] The above embodiments are intended to illustrate the present invention, not to limit the present invention. Any solution that is a simple transformation of the present invention belongs to the protection scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. A method for allocating fixed-point track lines, characterized in that: The following steps are involved: Step S1, according to the collar style design requirements, predetermine the collar base height or stand-up collar width, collar length and the distance requirement for the collar to fit the neck; Step S2, according to the collar shape design requirements, take a rectangular object, the length of the rectangular object is equal to the length required for one circle of the collar shape design or half of the length required for one circle of the collar shape design; the width of the rectangular object is equal to the back collar height or the inner collar height of the lapel of the collar to be designed; Step S3, laying the garment body pattern or fabric with the basic collar line drawn on a mannequin or a human body; Step S4, according to the design requirements, select a point on the collar hole line of the body pattern or fabric as the back collar fixed point: Step S5, according to the design requirements, a point corresponding to the back collar fixed point is taken on a long side of the rectangular object and connected to the back collar fixed point, the rectangular object is extended around the neck and shoulder with the back collar fixed point as the starting point to the front center line or the placket stop line, the position of the rectangular object is adjusted and fixed according to the appearance requirements of the collar upper opening and the distance requirements of the collar upper opening fitting the neck in the collar shape design requirements, and a specific trajectory line formed between the rectangular object and the body pattern or fabric is drawn as a trajectory line to determine the basic adjacent seat silhouette; when the length of the rectangular object is half of the length required for a collar shape design, any long side end point of the rectangular object is connected to the back collar fixed point; when the length of the rectangular object is the length required for a collar shape design, a symmetrical collar type collar can directly measure the midpoint of any long side of the rectangular object and connect it to the back collar fixed point; an asymmetrical collar type collar can measure the required collar lengths of the left and right collars at both ends of any long side, then take the intersection points of the two sides and connect them to the back collar fixed point; Step S6, designing the collar shape according to the style design requirements, and generating the final collar shape line and collar template according to the collar shape adjustment track line position; Step S6-1, three-dimensional construction, according to the style requirements, use the clothing plate making materials to design and produce a three-dimensional collar shape, and fix the three-dimensional collar shape on the body pattern or fabric with the track line as a reference, adjust the fixed position of the three-dimensional collar shape and the body pattern or fabric according to the style requirements, draw the collar hole shape line by tracing points and lines, and record the data of each part; Step S6-2, plane composition, converts the three-dimensional shape into a two-dimensional plane model according to the data of each part recorded in the stand-up collar structure, and completes the collar model design according to the style design and production process technology requirements.

2. The method for allocating a fixed-point track line according to claim 1, characterized in that: The back collar fixed point is the design point of the collar line of the back garment piece. According to design requirements, a point whose distance is the distance from the midpoint of the back collar nest of the basic garment piece to the collar design point is taken as the back collar fixed point.

3. The method for allocating a fixed-point track line according to claim 1, characterized in that: The rear collar fixed point is a point on the center line of the back of the human body according to design requirements, which is the distance from the seventh cervical vertebra point of the human body to the collar design point as the rear collar fixed point.

4. The method for allocating a fixed-point track line according to claim 1, characterized in that: In step S5, when the collar to be designed is a symmetrical collar, half of it is first made with the rear collar fixed point as the boundary, and the other half is directly copied symmetrically.

5. The method for allocating a fixed-point track line according to claim 1, characterized in that: In step S6, when the collar to be designed is an asymmetric collar, the left and right collars are respectively made with the rear collar fixed point as the boundary.

Citation Information

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