Use of reactive protein crosslinkers for crosslinking protein-containing substrates and methods for tanning and dyeing leather

Abstract

The present invention relates to the use of reactive, colorless and metal-free protein cross-linking agents for cross-linking (tanning) of protein-containing substrates, which are environmentally friendly and provide improved fixation rates, long-term cross-linking (tanning) stability and good wash-off properties. The present invention further relates to a method for cross-linking (tanning) of protein-containing substrates, thereby creating an environmentally friendly method that minimizes the use of chemicals and further improves the quality and efficiency of the tanning and dyeing processes.

Description

Field of the Invention

[0001] The present invention relates to the use of reactive, colorless and metal-free protein crosslinkers for protein-containing substrates, which are environmentally friendly and provide improved fixation yield, long-term crosslinking (tanning) stability and good wash-off properties.

[0002] The present invention further relates to a method for cross-linking (tanning) protein-containing substrates, thereby creating an environmentally friendly process that minimizes the use of chemicals and further improves the quality and efficiency of the tanning and dyeing process over time. Background of the Invention

[0004] The manufacturing process of leather has an environmental impact, not least because not all the chemicals used in the manufacturing process end up in the leather but are released into the environment. Specifications for the eco-friendliness of leather are measured by the absence of certain restricted chemicals (such as chrome VI and formaldehyde) or by the tanning method. This drive originated in the automotive industry, but more recently from environmental pressure groups, eco-labels, high street retailers or those seeking to gain a competitive advantage through product positioning. Some brands have developed the so-called ZDHC initiative to move towards zero discharge of hazardous chemicals in the textile, leather and footwear value chain.

[0005] The history of leather begins with primitive humans hunting wild animals for food. Hides and skins obtained as byproducts from dead animal carcasses were used as a crude form of shelter, clothing and footwear. Preservation methods were needed because hides, furs and skins rot and decompose quickly. However, early preservation methods, such as drying the hides, had only limited preservation and softening effects.

[0006] The whole purpose of tanning is to cross-link and stabilize the protein matrix of collagen in order to (but not limited to) prevent decay and thus decomposition, produce a degree of softness, ensure that hydrothermal denaturation occurs at higher temperatures, provide enhanced resistance to microorganisms, etc. Proper tanning is also largely irreversible. Another property is that the leather can be much more resistant to shrinkage when subjected to wet heat than raw or untanned hides or skins, i.e. tanning increases the hydrothermal stability, commonly referred to as the hydrothermal shrinkage temperature.

[0007] The main requirement for tanning quality is determined by measuring the "hydrothermal stability" (more commonly known as the "shrinkage temperature"). Whenever hides, skins and leathers are gradually heated in water, they reach a temperature at which sudden, irreversible shrinkage occurs. Hides or skins shrink very easily at temperatures of about 60°C (at neutral pH), while tanning raises the point at which shrinkage occurs to higher temperatures. This increased resistance to moisture and heat is an important requirement for leather, for example, when manufacturing a wide range of types of footwear, where the leather is subjected to moisture and high temperatures as part of the manufacturing process.

[0008] Today, various different methods involving different tanning agents are used to tan leather, such as chrome tanning, vegetable tanning and aldehyde tanning. Different types of tanning (pretanning, main tanning and retanning) produce different physical properties, including the level of resistance to wet heat of the resulting leather.

[0009] None of the commonly used above mentioned tanning technologies offer a complete environmental advantage over the others when all the key criteria characterizing the environmental impact of these technologies are considered. Aldehyde tanning meets the needs of the automotive industry and seems suitable for a small niche market in children's products that require compliance with EN71 / 3, but they may have handling, effluent treatment and higher energy and chemical consumption issues. In addition, aldehyde tanning is now also subject to stronger legislative scrutiny. On the other hand, chrome-free and metal-free tanning agents are highly desired by the industry.

[0010] Non-metal tanning generally produces very anionic leathers. Exhaustion and fixation of other reagents used in leather processing, such as other tanning agents, synthetic tanning agents, dyes and fatliquors (which are also generally anionic) becomes more difficult because the number of functional sites on the collagen is exhausted. This is well known to those skilled in the art and it is therefore difficult to create, for example, jet black anionic dyeings on metal-free leathers because the sites available in the collagen matrix for reaction with the dye are significantly reduced.

[0011] WO 2010 / 130311 relates to the use of triazine derivatives for tanning leather, which have an aromatic ring with a sulfonic group, which can form ionic bonds via the sulfonic group and can also form covalent bonds with the collagen of the leather. They thus crosslink the proteins of the leather or tannage it into a less well-tanned leather with a low shrinkage temperature.

[0012] A large part of leather's environmental impact lies in the manufacturing process that transforms it from raw hides, skins or skins into finished leather. In this regard, the tanner's environmental management practices coupled with the chemical selection determine how eco-friendly the leather is. Based on a model adopted by some of the world's leading brands that have been working on these issues, the following areas of leather manufacturing can be identified as having the most significant potential impacts: management of restricted substances, energy consumption, air emissions, waste management (hazardous and non-hazardous), water consumption, control of the manufacturing process, effluent treatment, chrome management and material traceability.

[0013] WO2019 / 158341 relates to a method for simultaneously tanning and dyeing collagen-containing fiber materials, such as leather, by combining the two steps of leather production, tanning and dyeing, into a single step, thereby using reactive dyes having protein fiber reactive groups, thus conserving resources and reducing environmental impact. Using the reactive dyes, it is possible to achieve tanning and dyeing simultaneously, but it requires a considerable amount of reactive dyes and it is not possible to produce colorless leathers, nor is it possible to produce leathers that require a soft or medium depth of tone.

[0014] There is therefore still room for further improving the tanning process in environmental terms and for developing metal-free tanning agents which avoid the use of restricted substances, do not impart colour during the dyeing process and / or require lower amounts of dye.

[0015] Invention Objectives

[0016] The object of the present invention is to develop reactive crosslinkers for protein-containing substrates such as leather which are environmentally friendly, provide improved fixation rates, long-term crosslinking (tanning) stability and good wash-off properties of unfixed crosslinkers. Said reactive crosslinking (tanning) agents should also contribute more particularly to the high quality requirements in terms of color strength and fastness, migration stability, with particular reference to rubbing fastness, moisture and perspiration fastness and migration fastness.

[0017] Another object of the present invention is to reduce the amount of chemicals required to carry out the crosslinking (tanning) and dyeing process of protein-containing substrates such as leather. Finally, the reactive crosslinking agents, when used in combination with reactive dyes, have the potential to produce a synergistic effect on coloration and greater flexibility to more easily create different shades, especially to make colorless leathers or leathers that require soft or medium shade depths.

[0018] Another object is to perform tanning and dyeing in one step by applying a colorless reactive crosslinker in combination with a reactive dye, so that tanning and dyeing can be achieved simultaneously in a single step, thereby more efficiently using the available protein reactive sites on the protein-containing substrate.

[0019] Definitions and terminology

[0020] In the present invention, the following terms have the following meanings:

[0021] 1) In the present invention, "collagen-containing fibrous material" is understood to be fur, rawhide or bare skin with its original fiber structure more or less intact, including split skins from animal rawhide, fur or bare skin, such as the underside of animal rawhide, fur or bare skin used to make suede leather. In addition, it includes collagenous materials that are capable of forming fibers in their untanned state, i.e. before tanning, which are made by collagen modification or by extrusion or spinning processes, such as by extracting waste / poor quality collagen, or by recombinant collagen production means (provided that non-animal-derived sources, such as genetically modified yeast or transgenic tobacco plants, are dissolved and recombined into materials and fibers). In addition to fur, rawhide or bare skin, this term is also intended to include products made from any suitable collagen source, whether they are waste and leather scraps generated in leather production, or from natural or synthetic collagen sources. For the avoidance of doubt, collagen-containing fibrous materials are regarded as "protein-based substrates" according to the present invention.

[0022] 2) In the present invention, "protein-based substrates" are understood to be substrates based on natural or synthetic engineered proteins of collagen, gelatin, silk, elastin and soy having at least amine functional groups and optionally OH functional groups.

[0023] 3) In the present invention, "hydrothermal stability" is tested by a shrinkage tester according to method ISO3380:2015 and is tested as irreversible shrinkage. Alternatively, differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) can be used to determine hydrothermal stability, usually using a heating rate of 5-10°C / min in a sealed aluminum pan to detect the endothermic peak of the denaturation point and evaluate the "onset" temperature.

[0024] 4) In the present invention, "color fastness to water" and "color fastness to perspiration" are tested according to SLF 412 (such as IUF 421 included in test method EN ISO 11642) and SLF 426 (such as IUF 426 included in test method EN ISO 11641), respectively.

[0025] 5) In the present invention, "tanning" is the process of treating collagen-containing substrates (natural and artificial (synthetically engineered) collagen-containing substrates, in particular but not limited to bare skins and hides of animals) to produce leather. Tanning according to the present invention utilizes at least one reactive (tanning) agent that is effective to form at least two covalent bonds between amines (such as lysine and ornithine terminal amines, histidine amines, hydroxylysine amines, etc.) and possible hydroxyl groups (such as serine or tyrosine hydroxyls) on the collagen-containing substrate and permanently modify the structure of the substrate to make it more durable and less prone to decomposition and suitable for application with dyes.

[0026] 6) The terms "tanning agent(s), "reactive tanning agent(s)" and "reactive cross-linking agent" refer in the present invention to at least one reactive (tanning / cross-linking) agent which is effective in forming at least (divalent) covalent bonds between amines (e.g. lysine and ornithine terminal amines, histidine amines, hydroxylysine amines, etc.) and possible hydroxyl groups (e.g. serine or tyrosine hydroxyl groups) on a protein-based substrate / collagen-containing substrate and permanently altering the structure of said substrate. In some cases, the collagen-containing substrate has carboxyl groups which in an intermediate manner form reactive species which can react in a permanent or semi-permanent manner with the reactive cross-linking (tanning) agent of the present invention. In the context of leather processing, reactive cross-linking agents are often referred to as "tanning agents".

[0027] 7) The term "Beamhouse Processing" refers to a series of chemical or mechanical process steps for treating the collagen-containing substrate according to the invention (especially but not limited to hides and skins of animals) before tanning and possibly in combination with colorants (dyes). Beamhouse processing may include soaking, fleshing, liming, dehairing, deliming and bating, for example scraping off all hair, epidermis and non-collagenous material before tanning.

[0028] 8) The terms "deliming process" and "deliming" refer to the removal of alkali donors (such as lime) from collagen-containing substrates (skins, hides or skins) after a conventional liming step in order to reduce the pH of the treated substrate (skins, hides or skins) after the high pH of a typical liming stage which typically utilizes calcium hydroxide as an alkali source. "Deliming" generally has three key aspects:

[0029] - Lowering the pH of the collagen-containing substrate (pelts, hides or skins) to achieve the correct pH for the softening enzymes (usually proteolytic type) to work optimally and complete their biochemical reactions. Depending on the enzymes used, the pH is typically lowered to a pH range of 6.5-9.0.

[0030] - Removal of Ca(OH) associated with a decrease in pH 2 (or other base used).

[0031] - Depletion of collagen-containing substrates (pelts, hides or skins) whereby partial deswelling occurs due to a decrease in pH (thus the collagen returns to closer to its isoelectric point) and ion removal, thus reducing the potential for osmotic and lyotropic swelling.

[0032] The deliming process can use a variety of chemical reagents (commonly referred to as deliming agents) to achieve the above requirements. For the present invention preferably, any deliming chemicals used avoid the possibility of forming insoluble calcium salts (for example, calcium carbonate called "lime blast") and the possibility of acid swelling. The example of suitable deliming agent includes but is not limited to ammonium-free deliming agent, such as using carbon dioxide injection, phosphonic acid derivatives, weak acid salts, water (by continuous washing), weak acids such as lactic acid, some strong acids (such as hydrochloric acid, although the addition rate must be extremely cautious), hydroxyl sinks, etc. Common ammonium deliming salts, such as ammonium sulfate, ammonium chloride, etc. are not too preferred and preferably avoided in the present invention.

[0033] 9) The term "Limed weight" refers to the weight of the collagen-containing substrate (e.g. skins, hides or pelts) before the deliming step and effectively when the collagen-containing substrate (skins, hides or pelts) is substantially swollen with water (the weight of the collagen-containing substrate is therefore typically 20-30% collagen and 70-80% water).

[0034] 10) The term "Pickle weight" refers to the weight of a collagen-containing substrate (e.g. skins, hides or pelts) during the storage pickling stage (wherein the skins, hides or pelts are typically at a pH of 1.5-2.5) and in a state where there is little, if any, structural swelling due to water (the weight of the collagen-containing substrate is thus typically 40-45% collagen and 55-60% water).

[0035] 11) Unless otherwise indicated, the word "average" refers to digital mean.

[0036] 12) Unless otherwise stated, the "weight percentage" (expressed as %wt or wt%) of tanning agent used in the tanning and / or dyeing process and / or the wt% of dye used refers to the wt% of tanning agent used and / or the wt% of dye used calculated on the total weight of the dry protein-based substrate. Unless otherwise stated, in the case of leather, the wt% of tanning agent used in the tanning and / or dyeing process and / or the wt% of dye used refers to the wt% of tanning agent and / or the wt% of dye calculated on the total weight of the protein-based substrate in the "limed state" or "pickled state".

[0037] Details

[0038] The present invention discloses the use of reactive protein cross-linking (tanning) agents for cross-linking (tanning) of protein-based substrates, the agents being colorless and metal-free. Thus, the cross-linking agents according to the present invention are environmentally friendly and provide improved fixation rates, long-term cross-linking (tanning) stability and good wash-off properties.

[0039] The present invention thus discloses the use of a reactive protein crosslinking (tanning) agent for the crosslinking (tanning) of protein-based substrates having amine and optionally OH functional groups, the crosslinking (tanning) agent being selected from compounds according to formula [1]:

[0040]

[0041] in

[0042] -L 1 and L 5 are each independently selected from H or C1-C4 alkyl, and

[0043] -L 2 , L 3 , L 4 , L 6 , L 7 and L 8 Each independently selected from H, C1-C4 alkyl, SO 3 H.OL 22 , where L 22 is selected from H or C1-C4 alkyl, and

[0044] -X is selected from Cl, F or nicotinic acid, and

[0045] -K 1 , K 2 , K 3 and K 4 Each is independently selected from -H or a protein reactive group.

[0046] According to an embodiment, the protein-reactive groups in the cross-linking (tanning) agent according to the invention (see compound according to formula [1]) are selected from

[0047] --SO 2 -Y,

[0048] --NH-(CH 2 ) 2-3 -SO 2 -Y,

[0049] --NH-CO-(CH 2 ) 2-3 -SO 2 -Y,

[0050] --NH-(CH 2 ) 2 -O-(CH 2 ) 2 -SO 2 -Y,

[0051] --NH-CO-CHW-CH2 -W, or

[0052] --NH-CO-C(W)=CH 2

[0053] in

[0054] -Y is selected from -CH=CH 2 or -CH 2 -CH 2 -U, and

[0055] -U and W are groups removable under basic conditions.

[0056] According to an embodiment, U and W in the reactive crosslinking (tanning) agent according to the invention (see compound according to formula [1]) are independently selected from -Cl, -Br, -F, -OSO 3 H, -SO 3 H、-OCO-CH 3 ,-OPO 3 H 2 、-OCO-C 6 H 5 、-OSO 2 -C 1 -C 4 Alkyl or OSO 2 N(C 1 -C 4 alkyl) 2 , U and W are preferably independently selected from -Cl, -OSO 3 H, -SO 3 H、-OCO-CH 3 、-OCO-C 6 H 5 or-OPO 3 H 2 , U and W are more preferably independently selected from -Cl or -OSO 3 Most preferably, H, U and W are selected from -OSO 3 H.

[0057] According to an embodiment, K in the reactive crosslinking (tanning) agent according to the present invention (see compound according to formula [1]) 1 , K 2 , K 3 and K 4 Each independently selected from H, -SO 2 -CH=CH 2 or -SO 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -U, and wherein U is a group removable under basic conditions.

[0058] According to an embodiment, the protein-based substrate is preferably selected from collagen-containing fibrous materials (natural and synthetic), more preferably selected from (animal) hides or skins.

[0059] According to an embodiment, the reactive crosslinking (tanning) agent (compound according to formula [1]) according to the invention is preferably selected from one of the following examples 1-15 in Tables 1-3 below:

[0060]

[0061] Table 1

[0062]

[0063] Table 2

[0064]

[0065] Table 3

[0066] According to a preferred embodiment, the reactive crosslinking (tanning) agent according to the invention is selected from compounds according to formula [2], [3], [4], [5] or [6]:

[0067]

[0068]

[0069] According to an alternative embodiment, the reactive crosslinking (tanning) agent according to the invention is selected from compounds according to formula [7], [8], [9] or

[10] :

[0070]

[0071]

[0072] According to an embodiment, the reactive crosslinking (tanning) agent according to the invention forms at least a divalent covalent bond between amines (such as but not limited to -NH 2 ) and possible -OH groups on the protein-containing substrate, thereby providing a tanning effect.

[0073] According to an embodiment, the reactive crosslinking (tanning) agent according to the invention produces a metal-free substrate ("metal-free leather") after crosslinking (tanning).

[0074] According to an embodiment, the reactive crosslinking (tanning) agent according to the invention can produce effects known in the leather industry as pretanning, main tanning (also known as full tanning or complete tanning, whether used alone or in combination with other known tanning agents) or retanning.

[0075] According to an embodiment, the colorless reactive cross-linking (tanning) agent according to the present invention will produce a cross-linking effect on a protein-based substrate, which more particularly means that the cross-linking (tanning) agent according to the present invention is capable of producing modification of proteins by at least divalent cross-linking with the aid of the reactive cross-linking (tanning) agent.

[0076] According to an embodiment, the cross-linking (tanning) agent according to the present invention can avoid or eliminate the use of NaCl in the cross-linking (tanning) process compared to the cross-linking (tanning) agents of the prior art.

[0077] According to an embodiment, the use of a colorless reactive protein cross-linking (tanning) agent according to the present invention enables the manufacture of a white or natural color substrate (leather). Typically, prior art tanning agents for leather impart a certain color (e.g., chrome for blue / green hues, glutaraldehyde for creamy / yellow, vegetable tanning generally for a range of browns, etc.).

[0078] According to an embodiment, the use of the reactive protein cross-linking (tanning) agent according to the invention typically provides a hydrothermal stability (wet shrinkage temperature) in the range of 70 to 85°C, preferably 75 to 82°C, most preferably 75 to 80°C.

[0079] According to an embodiment, the use of the reactive protein cross-linking (tanning) agent according to the invention provides a hydrothermal stability (wet shrinkage temperature) of at least 70°C, preferably at least 75°C.

[0080] According to an embodiment, the use of the reactive protein cross-linking (tanning) agent according to the present invention provides enhanced properties to the treated substrate, such as long-term cross-linking (tanning) stability.

[0081] According to an embodiment, the use of a reactive protein cross-linking (tanning) agent according to the invention enables the creation of brighter colors during a (subsequent or simultaneous) dyeing process.

[0082] According to an embodiment, the reactive protein cross-linking (tanning) agent according to the present invention may be used in combination with a protein cross-linking (tanning) agent of the prior art.

[0083] According to an embodiment, the colorless protein reactive cross-linking (tanning) agent according to the present invention can be used in combination with the dye of the prior art. The dye of the prior art can be used simultaneously with the reactive cross-linking (tanning) agent according to the present invention, which means that cross-linking (tanning) and dyeing occur in one step. Alternatively, the dye of the prior art can be used in a separate step after the cross-linking (tanning) step, which means that cross-linking (tanning) and dyeing occur in 2 different steps.

[0084] According to an embodiment, the use of the reactive protein cross-linking (tanning) agents according to the invention in combination with prior art dyes enables the production of leathers with soft or medium shade depths.

[0085] According to an embodiment, the colorless protein-reactive cross-linking (tanning) agent according to the present invention may be used in combination with reactive dyes of the prior art.

[0086] According to a preferred embodiment, the reactive dyes of the prior art which can be used in combination with the colorless reactive crosslinking (tanning) agent according to the invention can be selected from monofunctional, difunctional, trifunctional and / or polyfunctional reactive dyes.

[0087] According to an embodiment, the reactive dye may be selected from bifunctional, trifunctional and / or multifunctional reactive dyes having crosslinking properties with protein-based substrates, and thus may act as an additional colored tanning agent in combination with the colorless reactive crosslinking (tanning) agent according to the present invention. The reactive dye may be selected from compounds according to formula

[20] or

[21]

[0088] A 1 -(Z 1 ) 2-3

[20] , and

[0089]

[0090] in

[0091] -A 1 , A 2 and A 3 each independently of the other being a monoazo, polyazo, metal complex azo, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, formazan or dioxazine chromophore having at least one sulfonic group,

[0092] -B is an organic bridge member,

[0093] -Q 1 , Q 2 , Q 3 and Q 4 are independently hydrogen or unsubstituted or substituted C 1 -C 4 Alkyl, and

[0094] -G 1 and G 2 is halogen, 3-carboxypyridin-1-yl or 3-carbamoylpyridin-1-yl,

[0095] -(Z 1 ) 2-3 are 2 to 3 identical or different protein-reactive groups, and

[0096] -Z2 and Z 3 are independently the same or different protein-reactive groups, and

[0097] -b is a numeric value of 0 or 1.

[0098] According to a preferred embodiment, A 1 , A 2 and A 3 Each is independently selected from the monoazo or polyazo chromophores in the reactive dyes according to formula

[20] or

[21] .

[0099] According to a preferred embodiment, A in the reactive dye according to formula

[20] or

[21] 1 , A 2 and A 3 Each is independently selected from the following groups:

[0100]

[0101] in

[0102] -(R 4 ) 0-3 represents 0 to 3 identical or different substituents selected from C 1 -C 4 Alkyl, C 1 -C 4 Alkoxy, C 2 -C 4 alkanoylamino, urea, sulfamoyl, carbamoyl, sulfomethyl, halogen, amino, hydroxy, carboxyl and sulfo,

[0103] -(R 5 ) 0-2 represents 0 to 2 identical or different substituents selected from hydroxyl, amino, N-mono-C 1 -C 4 Alkylamino, N,N-di-C 1 -C 4 Alkylamino, C 2 -C 4 alkanoylamino and benzylamino, and q in formula (25) is a value of 2 or 3, i.e. q depicts 2 or 3 bonds to the chromophore;

[0104]

[0105] in

[0106] -(R 5 ) 0-2 as defined above, and

[0107] - q in formula (26) is a value of 2 or 3, i.e. q depicts 2 or 3 bonds to the chromophore;

[0108]

[0109] in

[0110] -(R 6 ) 0-3 and (R 7 ) 0-3 represents independently 0 to 3 identical or different substituents selected from C 1 -C 4 Alkyl, C 1 -C 4 Alkoxy, halogen, carboxyl and sulfonyl, and

[0111] - q in formula (27) is a value of 2 or 3, i.e. q depicts 2 or 3 bonds to the chromophore;

[0112]

[0113] in

[0114] -R 8 and R 10 Each independently is hydrogen, C 1 -C 4 Alkyl or phenyl,

[0115] -R 9 is hydrogen, cyano, carbamoyl or sulfomethyl, and

[0116] - q in formula (28) is a value of 2 or 3, i.e. q depicts 2 or 3 bonds to the chromophore;

[0117]

[0118] in

[0119] -(R 11 ) 0-3 If (R 4 ) 0-3 As defined,

[0120] -(R 12 ) 0-3 represents 0 to 3 identical or different substituents selected from C 1 -C 4 Alkyl, C 1 -C 4 Alkoxy, halogen, amino, carboxyl and sulfonyl,

[0121] -(R 13 ) 0-3If (R 4 ) 0-3 Defined, or R 13 is a group -N=N-Ph, wherein Ph is unsubstituted or replaced by C 1 -C 4 Alkyl, C 1 -C 4 Alkoxy, halogen, carboxyl or sulfonyl substituted phenyl,

[0122] -s is a numeric value of 0 or 1, and

[0123] - q in formula (29) is a value of 2 or 3, i.e. q depicts 2 or 3 bonds to the chromophore;

[0124]

[0125] in

[0126] -(R 11 ) 0-3 and (R 13 ) 0-3 Independently of each other as defined above,

[0127] -(R 14 ) 0-2 represents 0 to 2 identical or different substituents selected from C 1 -C 4 Alkyl, C 1 -C 4 Alkoxy, halogen, carboxyl, sulfonyl, hydroxyl, amino, N-mono-C 1 -C 4 Alkylamino, N,N-di-C 1 -C 4 Alkylamino, C 2 -C 4 Alkanoylamino and benzoylamino, and

[0128] - q in formula (30) is a value of 2 or 3, i.e. q depicts 2 or 3 bonds to the chromophore;

[0129]

[0130] in

[0131] -The benzene nucleus does not contain any further substituents or is further replaced by C 1 -C 4 Alkyl, C 1 -C 4 Alkoxy, C 1 -C 4 alkylsulfonyl, halogen or substituted with carboxyl, and

[0132] -q is a value of 2 or 3, i.e., q depicts 2 or 3 bonds to the chromophore;

[0133]

[0134] in

[0135] -Pc is a metal phthalocyanine radical, in particular a copper or nickel phthalocyanine radical,

[0136] -W' is -OH and / or -NR 16 R 16 ′, and R 16 and R 16 ' are each independently hydrogen or C 1 -C 4 an alkyl group which is unsubstituted or substituted by a hydroxyl group or by a sulfo group,

[0137] -R 15 is hydrogen or C 1 -C 4 alkyl,

[0138] -A is unsubstituted or replaced by C 1 -C 4 Alkyl, C 1 -C 4 Alkoxy, halogen, carboxyl or sulfonyl substituted phenylene, or C 2 -C 6 Alkylene,

[0139] -k is 1 to 3, and

[0140] -q is a value of 2 or 3, i.e., q depicts 2 or 3 bonds to the chromophore;

[0141]

[0142] in

[0143] -A' is unsubstituted or replaced by C 1 -C 4 Alkyl, C 1 -C 4 Alkoxy, halogen, carboxyl or sulfonyl substituted phenylene, or C 2 -C 6 Alkylene,

[0144] - r is independently a value of 0, 1 or 2, preferably 0 or 1, and

[0145] -v and v' are each independently a value of 0 or 1.

[0146] According to a preferred embodiment, the protein reactive group Z in the reactive dye according to formula

[20] or

[21] 1, Z 2 and Z 3 Each independently selected from the following groups:

[0147] --SO 2 -Y (3a),

[0148] --NH-CO-(CH 2 ) 1 -SO 2 -Y (3b),

[0149] --CONR 2 -(CH 2 ) m -SO 2 -Y (3c),

[0150] --NH-CO-CH(Hal)-CH 2 -Hal (3d),

[0151] --NH-CO-C(Hal)=CH 2 (3e),

[0152]

[0153] in

[0154] -Hal is chlorine or bromine;

[0155] -X 1 is halogen, 3-carboxypyridin-1-yl or 3-carbamoylpyridin-1-yl;

[0156] -T 1 Independently has X 1 or a protein-free substituent or a protein-reactive group of the formula:

[0157]

[0158] in

[0159] -R 1 , R 1a and R 1b are independently hydrogen or C 1 -C 4 alkyl,

[0160] -R 2 It is hydrogen, C 1 -C 4 Alkyl, which is unsubstituted or substituted by hydroxy, sulfo, sulfate, carboxyl or cyano, or a group

[0161] -R 3 It is hydrogen, hydroxyl, sulfonate, sulfate, carboxyl, cyano, halogen, C 1 -C 4 Alkoxycarbonyl, C 1 -C 4 Alkanoyloxy, carbamoyl or group -SO 2 -Y,

[0162] -alk and alk 1 Independently of each other, they are straight chain or branched chain C 1 -C 6 Alkylene,

[0163] -Arylene is phenylene or naphthylene, which is unsubstituted or substituted by sulfonyl, carboxyl, C 1 -C 4 Alkyl, C 1 -C 4 Alkoxy or halogen substituted,

[0164] -Q is a group -O- or -NR 1 -, where R 1 As defined above,

[0165] -W is the group -SO 2 -NR 2 -、-CONR 2 -or-NR 2 CO-, where R 2 As defined above,

[0166] -Y is vinyl or a group -CH 2 -CH 2 -U, and U is a group that can be cleaved under alkaline conditions,

[0167] -Y 1 It is the group -CH(Hal)-CH 2 -Hal or -C(Hal)=CH 2 , and Hal is chlorine or bromine, and

[0168] - l and m are independently integers from 1 to 6, and n is a value of 0 or 1;

[0169] and

[0170] -X 2 Is halogen or C 1 -C 4 Alkylsulfonyl;

[0171] -X 3 Is halogen or C 1 -C 4 Alkyl; and

[0172] -T 2 is hydrogen, cyano or halogen.

[0173] According to a preferred embodiment, the protein reactive group Z in the reactive dye according to formula

[20] or

[21] 1 , Z 2 and Z 3 A group independently selected from (3a), (3b) or (3f), wherein

[0174] -Y is vinyl, β-chloroethyl or β-sulfatoethyl,

[0175] -R 2 and R 1a It is hydrogen,

[0176] -l is a value of 2 or 3,

[0177] -X 1 It is halogen.

[0178] -T 1 It is C 1 -C 4 Alkoxy, C 1 -C 4 Alkylthio, hydroxy, amino, N-mono- or N,N-di-C 1 -C 4 Alkylamino, morpholinyl, phenylamino or NC wherein the alkyl group is unsubstituted or substituted in the phenyl ring by sulfo, carboxyl, acetylamino, chloro, methyl or methoxy and wherein the alkyl group is unsubstituted or substituted by hydroxy, sulfo or sulfate 1 -C 4 alkyl-N-phenylamino, or naphthylamino which is unsubstituted or substituted by 1 to 3 sulfo groups, or

[0179] -T 1 It is a fiber reactive group of the formula

[0180] --NH-(CH 2 ) 2-3 -SO 2 Y (4a'),

[0181] --NH-(CH 2 ) 2-3 -O-(CH 2 ) 2-3 -SO 2 Y (4b'),

[0182]

[0183] in

[0184] -Y as defined above and

[0185] -Y 1 It is the group -CH(Br)-CH 2 -Br or -C(Br)=CH 2 .

[0186] According to a preferred embodiment, the reactive dye according to formula

[20] or

[21] comprises an organic bridge member B which is selected from C2-C6 alkylene which may be interrupted by 1, 2 or 3 -O- members and is unsubstituted or substituted by hydroxyl groups, or phenylene which is substituted by one or two sulfonyl groups, and wherein G1 and G2 are preferably each independently of one another chlorine or fluorine, in particular chlorine.

[0187] According to an embodiment, the colorless reactive crosslinking (tanning) agent according to the present invention can be used in combination with a prior art dye selected from reactive dyes including monoazo, polyazo, metal complex azo, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, formazan or dioxazine dyes, such as Reactive Black 5, but not limited to this given example.

[0188] According to an embodiment, the reactive crosslinking (tanning) agent according to the present invention can be combined with at least one selected from at least one containing an acidic group, such as but not limited to SO 3 Acid dyes of the prior art containing H and COOH are used in combination. An example of an acid dye is acid black 210.

[0189] The present invention further provides a method for crosslinking (tanning) a protein-based substrate having an amine and optionally OH functional group, the method comprising treating the protein-based substrate with a colorless reactive crosslinking (tanning) agent according to the present invention in a suitable amount of the colorless reactive crosslinking (tanning) agent. Typically, the protein-based substrate is placed in a liquid medium (at a suitable pH) at a temperature of 10°C to 50°C, preferably 20°C to 40°C, most preferably 25°C to 30°C in a suitable processing container such as a drum, and a suitable amount of colorless reactive crosslinking (tanning) agent is added to the liquid medium. Preferably, based on the dry weight of the protein-based substrate, the amount of the crosslinking agent is in the range of 1 wt% to 40 wt%, preferably 10 wt% to 30 wt%, more preferably 16 wt% to 25 wt%. The drum is then run for a period of time to achieve sufficient penetration of the crosslinking agent into the protein-based substrate. After penetration, the pH of the liquid medium is generally increased and thus the pH of the protein-based substrate is increased so that the colorless crosslinking (tanning) agent reacts with the protein-reactive groups in the protein-based substrate to complete the crosslinking (tanning) reaction. The cross-linked substrate then typically requires rinsing / washing to remove excess reactants, salts, bases, alkaline buffers used in the cross-linking process.

[0190] According to an embodiment, the protein-based substrate is a collagenous substrate, such as fur, bare skin and rawhide, and the tanning process starts after the deliming step. Preferably, the tanning is usually carried out in a liquid medium at a temperature of 10°C to 50°C, preferably 20°C to 40°C, and most preferably 25°C to 30°C in a drum. The pH of the liquid medium and the collagenous substrate (rawhide, bare skin, fur, etc.) is preferably in the range of 4.0 to 9.0, preferably 6.0 to 7.5, and most preferably 6.5 to 7.0, and the amount of colorless reactive crosslinking (tanning) agent added to the liquid medium to achieve tanning of the collagen-containing substrate is preferably in the range of 0.25 wt.% to 10 wt.%, preferably 2.5 wt.% to 7.5 wt.%, and most preferably 4 wt.% to 6 wt.% based on the liming weight of the collagenous substrate. The time required for achieving full penetration of the cross-linking (tanning) agent into the fibrous structure of the collagenous substrate is generally 15 minutes to 720 minutes, preferably 30 minutes to 360 minutes, and most preferably 60 minutes to 120 minutes. After the cross-linking (tanning) agent penetrates, the pH of the liquid medium is subsequently increased and the pH of the collagenous substrate (rawhide, bare skin or fur) is therefore increased so that the colorless cross-linking (tanning) agent reacts with the collagen in the collagenous substrate (rawhide, bare skin or fur) to complete the cross-linking (tanning) reaction. This is usually achieved by adding a product that provides alkalinity to the system, and not only includes alkali, but also includes an alkali buffer system. Examples include but are not limited to sodium bicarbonate and / or potassium bicarbonate, sodium carbonate and / or potassium carbonate, sodium hydroxide and / or potassium hydroxide, sodium formate and / or potassium formate, sodium hydrogen phosphate and / or potassium hydrogen phosphate, sodium borate, etc. The pH is then usually increased to 7.5 to 12, preferably 8.5 to 11, and most preferably 9 to 10 for another period of time, and the temperature of the drum can be optionally further increased. The tanned substrate (leather) then requires rinsing / washing to remove excess reactants, salts, bases, alkaline buffers used in the cross-linking (tanning) process and to lower the pH to bring the leather back closer to its isoelectric point and ensure it is later in the appropriate pH range for subsequent processing.

[0191] The present invention further provides a method for simultaneously crosslinking (tanning) and dyeing a protein-based substrate having amine and optionally OH functional groups, the method comprising treating the protein-based substrate with a suitable amount of a colorless reactive crosslinking (tanning) agent according to the present invention and at least one reactive dye having a protein-reactive group (such as but not limited to the reactive dyes according to formulas

[20] and

[21] ). Preferably, based on the weight of the dry protein-based substrate, the amount of the crosslinking agent ranges from 1 wt% to 39 wt%, more preferably from 5 wt% to 25 wt%, and most preferably from 10 wt% to 20 wt%. Preferably, based on the weight of the dry protein-based substrate, the amount of the reactive dye ranges from 1 wt% to 39 wt%, more preferably from 5 wt% to 25 wt%, and most preferably from 10 wt% to 20 wt%. Generally, the protein-based substrate is placed in a liquid medium (at a suitable pH) in a suitable processing vessel such as a drum at a temperature of 10°C to 50°C, preferably 20°C to 40°C, and most preferably 25°C to 30°C, and a suitable amount of the colorless reactive crosslinking (tanning) agent and the reactive dye having a protein-reactive group are added to the liquid medium. The drum is then run for a period of time to allow the crosslinking agent and the dye to fully penetrate into the protein-based substrate. After penetration, the pH of the liquid medium is usually increased and thus the pH of the protein-based substrate is increased to cause the colorless crosslinking (tanning) agent and the dye to react with the protein-reactive groups in the protein-based substrate to complete the crosslinking (tanning) reaction. The crosslinked and colored substrate then generally needs to be rinsed / washed to remove the excess reactants, salts, bases, and basic buffers used in the crosslinking and dyeing processes.

[0192] According to an embodiment, the method for simultaneously crosslinking (tanning) and dyeing a protein-based substrate having amine and optionally OH functional groups comprises treating the protein-based substrate with a suitable amount of a colorless reactive crosslinking (tanning) agent according to the present invention and at least one mono-reactive dye having one protein-reactive group. Preferably, based on the weight of the dry protein-based substrate, the amount of the crosslinking agent ranges from 1 wt% to 39 wt%, more preferably from 10 wt% to 30 wt%, and most preferably from 16 wt% to 25 wt%. Preferably, based on the weight of the dry protein-based substrate, the amount of the mono-reactive dye ranges from 1 wt% to 25 wt%, more preferably from 5 wt% to 20 wt%, and most preferably from 7.5 wt% to 15 wt%.

[0193] According to an embodiment, the method for simultaneously crosslinking (tanning) and dyeing a protein-based substrate having amine and optionally OH functional groups comprises treating the protein-based substrate with a suitable amount of a colorless reactive crosslinking (tanning) agent according to the present invention and at least one direactive, trireactive and / or polyreactive dye having a protein-reactive group (for example, but not limited to, reactive dyes according to formulas

[20] and

[21] ). Preferably, the amount of the crosslinking agent is in the range of 1 wt % to 39 wt %, more preferably in the range of 10 wt % to 30 wt %, most preferably in the range of 16 wt % to 25 wt %, based on the weight of the dry protein-based substrate. Preferably, the amount of the direactive, trireactive and / or polyreactive dye is in the range of 1 wt % to 39 wt %, more preferably in the range of 10 wt % to 30 wt %, most preferably in the range of 16 wt % to 25 wt %, based on the weight of the dry protein-based substrate.

[0194] According to embodiments, the simultaneous cross-linking (tanning) and dyeing process of protein-based substrates can create soft or medium-toned colors (depth).

[0195] According to an embodiment, the protein-based substrate is a collagenous substrate, such as fur, bare skin and rawhide, and the simultaneous crosslinking (tanning) and dyeing process begins after the deliming step. Preferably, the simultaneous crosslinking (tanning) and dyeing process is carried out in a liquid medium at a temperature of 10°C to 50°C, preferably 20°C to 40°C, and most preferably 25°C to 30°C in a suitable processing container such as a drum. The pH of the liquid medium and the collagenous substrate (rawhide, bare skin, fur, etc.) is preferably in the range of 4.0 to 9.0, more preferably in the range of 6.0 to 7.5, most preferably in the range of 6.5 to 7.0, and the amount of the colorless reactive crosslinking (tanning) agent and the reactive dye having a protein reactive group is preferably such that the total weight % is 0.25 weight % to 10 weight %, preferably 2.5 weight % to 7.5 weight %, and most preferably 4 weight % to 6 weight % based on the liming weight of the collagenous substrate. The time required for achieving cross-linking (tanning) agents and dyes (such as but not limited to direactive, trireactive and / or multireactive dyes) to fully penetrate into the fibrous structure of the collagenous substrate is generally 15 minutes to 720 minutes, preferably 30 minutes to 360 minutes, and most preferably 60 minutes to 120 minutes. After penetration, the pH of the liquid medium is subsequently increased and the pH of the collagenous substrate (rawhide, bare skin or fur) is therefore increased so that the colorless cross-linking (tanning) agent and dye react with the collagen in the collagenous substrate (rawhide, bare skin or fur) to complete the cross-linking (tanning) reaction. This is usually achieved by adding a product that provides alkalinity for the system, and not only includes alkali, but also includes an alkali buffer system. Examples include but are not limited to sodium bicarbonate and / or potassium bicarbonate, sodium carbonate and / or potassium carbonate, sodium hydroxide and / or potassium hydroxide, sodium formate and / or potassium formate, sodium hydrogen phosphate and / or potassium hydrogen phosphate, sodium borate, etc. The pH is then generally raised to a range of 7.5 to 12, preferably 8.5 to 11, most preferably 9 to 10 for another period of time and the drum temperature may optionally be further increased. The tanned and colored substrate (leather) then requires rinsing / washing to remove excess reactants, salts, bases, alkaline buffers used in the crosslinking (tanning) process and to lower the pH to restore the leather closer to its isoelectric point and to ensure that it is later in the appropriate pH range for subsequent processing.

[0196] The present invention further provides a method for crosslinking (tanning) and dyeing a protein-based substrate having amine and optionally OH functional groups, the method comprising first treating a protein-based substrate with a colorless reactive crosslinking (tanning) agent according to the invention, ThenTreating protein-based substrates with dyes (or vice versa). Typically, the protein-based substrate is placed in a liquid medium (at a suitable pH) at a temperature of 10°C to 50°C, preferably 20°C to 40°C, most preferably 25°C to 30°C in a suitable processing container (such as a drum), and in a first step, a suitable amount of colorless reactive cross-linking (tanning) agent is added to the processing container (drum). In the next step, a suitable amount of dye is added to the liquid medium to achieve dyeing of the cross-linked (tanned) substrate (or vice versa). The container (drum) is then run for a period of time to achieve full penetration of the cross-linking agent and dye into the protein-based substrate. After penetration, the pH of the liquid medium is generally increased and the pH of the protein-based substrate is therefore increased so that the colorless cross-linking (tanning) agent reacts with the protein reactive groups in the protein-based substrate to complete the cross-linking (tanning) reaction. The cross-linked and colored substrate then generally requires rinsing / washing to remove the excess reactants, salts, alkalis, and alkaline buffers used in the cross-linking and dyeing processes.

[0197] According to an embodiment, the method for crosslinking (tanning) and dyeing The method of preparing a protein-based substrate having amine and optionally OH functional groups comprises first treating a protein-based substrate with a colorless reactive crosslinking (tanning) agent according to the invention, Then The protein-based substrate is treated with a dye (or vice versa), wherein the amount of colorless reactive crosslinker and dye is such that the total weight % is 1 wt % to 40 wt %, preferably 10 wt % to 30 wt %, most preferably 16 wt % to 25 wt %, based on the dry weight of the protein-based substrate.

[0198] The present invention further discloses a cross-linked (tanned) protein-based substrate, preferably a cross-linked (tanned) collagenous substrate (rawhide, bare skin, fur), synthetic protein, silk, etc., to achieve cross-linked (tanned) and / or colored leather and / or silk substrate using the reactive cross-linking (tanning) agent of the present invention according to formula [1].

[0199] The present invention further discloses a cross-linked (tanned) and colored (dyed) protein-based substrate, preferably a cross-linked (tanned) and colored (dyed) collagenous substrate (raw hide, bare hide, fur), synthetic protein, silk, etc., to achieve tanned and colored leather and / or silk substrate using the reactive cross-linking (tanning) agent of the present invention according to formula [1] in combination with a (reactive) dye, such as but not limited to monofunctional, difunctional, trifunctional and / or multifunctional reactive dyes having protein reactive groups (such as but not limited to reactive dyes according to formulas

[20] and

[21] ). Preferably, cross-linking (tanning) and dyeing of the protein-based substrate are carried out simultaneously, or the cross-linking (tanning) step is carried out first and then the dyeing step (or vice versa).

[0200] Attached photos

[0201] Figure 1 Shown are differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) graphs (3 replicates) illustrating the hydrothermal stability of specific example A according to the invention (the "onset" temperature is the value considered as the hydrothermal stability).

[0202] Figure 2 A Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) graph (3 replicates) illustrating the hydrothermal stability of specific example B according to the invention is shown (the "onset" temperature is the value considered as the hydrothermal stability).

[0203] Figure 3 A Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) graph (3 replicates) illustrating the hydrothermal stability of specific example E according to the invention is shown (the "onset" temperature is the value considered as the hydrothermal stability).

[0204] Figure 4 Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) graphs are shown illustrating the hydrothermal stability of Specific Example F according to the invention and Comparative Example 1 (the "onset" temperature is the value considered as the hydrothermal stability).

[0205] Figure 5 A Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) graph illustrating the hydrothermal stability of specific example G according to the invention is shown (the "onset" temperature is the value considered as the hydrothermal stability).

[0206] The invention is illustrated by the following examples. Example

[0207] method:

[0208] Measurement of hydrothermal stability

[0209] The hydrothermal stability of tanned leather is tested by a hydrothermal shrinkage tester according to method ISO 3380: 2015 and is tested as irreversible shrinkage. Alternatively, differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) is used, usually with a heating rate of 5-10°C / min in a sealed aluminum pan, to detect the endothermic peak of the denaturation point and evaluate the "onset" temperature.

[0210] Measurement of color fastness

[0211] The color fastness to water and color fastness to perspiration are tested according to SLF 412 (IUF 421) and SLF 426 (IUF 426) respectively.

[0212] The following general examples 1-3 illustrate the processing conditions of the crosslinking (tanning) method of natural collagenous substrates (bare skins, raw hides, furs, etc.) using a crosslinking agent according to formula [1] with and without simultaneous dyeing. The weight % of the crosslinking agent (and dye) and other processing agents mentioned in the following examples are based on the liming weight of the collagenous substrate (bare skins, raw hides, furs, etc.). In the case of leather processing, the tanning process usually starts after the deliming process, which is the last step in the so-called "beamhouse processing", in which all hair, fat and non-collagenous substances are removed from the raw hides or bare skins by chemical or mechanical means during the pre-tanning processing stage. The deliming, softening and degreasing processes are completed in the usual manner and using common chemicals and equipment. In the present invention, it is preferred to place special emphasis on removing calcium ions and avoiding ammonium salts. The following examples are exemplary and the present invention is not limited thereto.

[0213] General Example 1: Tanning method of collagenous substrates (raw hides, skins, furs, etc.) using the colorless reactive tanning agent according to the invention alone

[0214] (a) The typical equipment used is a rotating drum as is known in the leather industry. It should be kept rotating throughout the following process, except for the required powder addition, necessary technical checks (e.g. pH, temperature, etc.) and drainage.

[0215] (b) The tanning process using the colorless reactive crosslinking (tanning) agent according to formula [1] is carried out in a liquid medium having 1 to 150 wt. %, preferably 10 to 75 wt. %, most preferably 20 to 40 wt. % water, based on the liming weight of the collagenous substrate. The temperature of the liquid medium is in the range of 10° C. to 50° C., preferably 20° C. to 40° C., most preferably 25° C. to 30° C.

[0216] (c) The pH range of the feed liquid and collagenous substrate (raw hide, bare skin, fur, etc.) is 4.0 to 9.0, preferably 6.0 to 7.5, most preferably 6.5 to 7.0. This can be measured by checking the collagenous substrate (raw hide, bare skin, fur, etc.) using a suitable pH indicator solution (such as bromothymol blue) and using a pH meter for the feed liquid.

[0217] (d) Salt is then typically added to the drum to help suppress the ionic charge on the collagen of the collagenous substrate (raw hide, pelt, fur, etc.). Examples include, but are not limited to, sodium chloride, sodium sulfate, sodium formate and sodium succinate. Typical amounts of salt added are in the range of 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably 1% to 7.5% by weight, and most preferably 2% to 4% by weight (based on the liming weight of the collagenous substrate). This is typically done for a period of 1 to 120 minutes, preferably 10 to 60 minutes, and most preferably 15 to 30 minutes. Alternatively, the salt may be added together with a cross-linking (tanning) agent according to formula [1], or after the addition of the cross-linking agent.

[0218] (e) adding to the drum a suitable amount of a crosslinking (tanning) agent according to formula [1] of 1 to 10 wt. %, preferably 2.5 to 7.5 wt. %, most preferably 4 to 6 wt. %, based on the liming weight of the collagenous substrate. At this stage, the intention is to allow the crosslinking (tanning) agent according to formula [1] to penetrate the fibrous structure of the collagenous substrate and the time used for this process stage may be 15 to 720 minutes, preferably 30 to 360 minutes, most preferably 60 to 120 minutes.

[0219] (f) The pH of the slurry and thus the pH of the collagenous substrate (raw hide, skin or fur) is then increased so that the colorless crosslinking (tanning) agent according to formula [1] reacts with the collagen in the collagenous substrate (raw hide, skin or fur) to complete the crosslinking (tanning) reaction. This is usually achieved by adding a product that provides alkalinity to the system and includes not only a base but also an alkaline buffer system. Examples include, but are not limited to, sodium bicarbonate and / or potassium bicarbonate, sodium carbonate and / or potassium carbonate, sodium hydroxide and / or potassium hydroxide, sodium formate and / or potassium formate, sodium hydrogen phosphate and / or potassium hydrogen phosphate, sodium borate, etc. The pH is then usually increased to a range of 7.5 to 12, preferably 8.5 to 11, and most preferably 9 to 10. This pH increase rate can be controlled by changing the addition of alkali and / or alkaline buffer and the operating time of the alkali and / or alkaline buffer. The time range can be 15 minutes to 480 minutes, preferably 30 minutes to 240 minutes, and most preferably 60 minutes to 120 minutes.

[0220] (g) Once the pH reaches the necessary range, the pH is typically maintained at that level for an additional period of from 60 minutes to 1200 minutes, preferably from 180 minutes to 900 minutes, most preferably from 360 minutes to 600 minutes.

[0221] (h) The temperature of the drum may be increased during stages (f) and (g) above by 2°C to 25°C, preferably 4°C to 18°C, most preferably 6°C to 15°C, so that the final drum temperature is in the range of 25°C to 50°C, preferably 30°C to 45°C, most preferably 33°C to 38°C, if necessary.

[0222] (i) The drum is then drained. The time depends on the size of the load and the configuration of the drum.

[0223] (j) The tanned substrate (leather) then needs to be rinsed / washed to remove excess reactants, salts, alkalis, alkaline buffers used in the previous steps of the method and to reduce the pH to restore the leather to a pH closer to its isoelectric point and to ensure that it is later in a suitable pH range for subsequent processes. This can be achieved in a single step or in multiple repeated steps (which is preferred). The temperature of the rinse / washing liquid is generally 15°C to 55°C, preferably 20°C to 45°C, and most preferably 25°C to 35°C. The total amount of the rinse / washing liquid is generally 100% to 750% by weight, preferably 150% to 500% by weight, and most preferably 200% to 400% by weight of the rinse / washing liquid (based on the weight of the treated substrate). The final pH of the treated substrate (leather) is generally reduced to a range of pH 3.5 to pH 8.0, preferably 4.0 to pH 6.5, and most preferably pH 4.5 to pH 5.5. This can be achieved with a range of acids, acidic buffers or acidic salts, such as but not limited to formic acid, citric acid, acetic acid, glycolic acid, etc. The time to complete the rinsing / washing and pH reduction is generally 10 minutes to 300 minutes in total, preferably 45 minutes to 200 minutes, and most preferably 75 minutes to 120 minutes. As is well known to those skilled in the art of leather manufacturing, biocides can also be added to the final wash bath as a preservative treatment for the treated substrate (tanned leather).

[0224] General Example 2: Method for simultaneous tanning and dyeing of collagenous substrates (hides, skins, furs, etc.) using a colorless reactive tanning agent according to the invention in combination with at least one direactive, trireactive or polyreactive dye

[0225] The same processing steps according to general example 1 are applied here, except for step e), wherein in addition to the reactive tanning agent according to the invention, at least one di-, tri- or poly-reactive dye is added to the drum so that the total weight % is 1 to 10 wt %, preferably 2.5 to 7.5 wt %, most preferably 4 to 6 wt %, based on the liming weight of the collagenous substrate. The reactive tanning agent and the dye can be added simultaneously or successively (in the same step). At this stage, the intention is that both the crosslinking (tanning) agent according to formula [1] and the reactive dye penetrate into the fiber structure of the collagenous substrate and the time for this processing stage can be 15 to 720 minutes, preferably 30 to 360 minutes, most preferably 60 to 120 minutes.

[0226] General Example 3: Method for tanning and dyeing collagenous substrates (hides, skins, furs, etc.) using a colorless reactive tanning agent according to the invention in combination with at least one monoreactive dye and / or anionic dye (e.g. acid, direct dye, sulfur, etc.)

[0227] The same processing steps according to general example 1 are applied here, except for step e), in which a suitable amount of a crosslinking (tanning) agent according to formula [1] is added, which is 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably 2.5% to 7.5% by weight, and most preferably 4% to 6% by weight, based on the liming weight of the collagenous substrate, and in addition to the tanning agent, before, simultaneously with or after the addition of the colorless crosslinking (tanning) agent according to formula [1], at least one monoreactive dye and / or typical anionic dye (e.g. acid, direct dye, sulfur, etc.) is added to the drum in an amount of 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 7.5% by weight, and most preferably 1% to 5% by weight, based on the liming weight of the collagenous substrate. At this stage (step e)), the intention is to allow both the cross-linking (tanning) agent according to formula [1] and the reactive dye to penetrate into the fibrous structure of the collagenous substrate and the time used for this processing stage can be from 15 minutes to 720 minutes, preferably from 30 minutes to 360 minutes, most preferably from 60 minutes to 120 minutes.

[0228] For any of the general embodiments described above and if desired, other non-mineral based tanning agents, typically of anionic nature, may be applied before, simultaneously with or after the reactive tanning agent molecules according to formula [1] to provide what is known to those skilled in the art of leather manufacturing as pre-tanning, combined tanning or retanning. Examples include, but are not limited to, synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural tanning agents based on, for example, sulfones, phenols, naphthols, aldehydes, aldehyde compounds, aldehyde derivatives, acrylate based polymers, sulfonyl chlorides, carbamate based polymers, melamine, dicyandiamide, lignin sulfonates, styrene maleic acid compounds, carbamoyl sulfonates, plant extracts, and the like.

[0229] Furthermore, these crosslinked (tanned) and optionally dyed collagenous substrates (leathers) formed by the above-described embodiments can be further processed using chemicals and methods commonly known to those skilled in the art of leather manufacturing, generally referred to as "retanning, dyeing and fatliquoring." In addition, other chemical auxiliaries can be applied to impart properties to the leather that produce properties such as water resistance, oil and stain repellency, flame retardancy, etc.

[0230] The following specific examples AG illustrate specific crosslinking (tanning) methods for specific collagenous substrates using a crosslinking agent according to formula [2] (with and without simultaneous dyeing). The following comparative example 1 illustrates the crosslinking method disclosed in application example 1 in WO 2010 / 130311, whereby composition 2 disclosed in WO 2010 / 130311 is used, said composition 2 comprising a tanning agent (A) described in example 1 in WO 2010 / 130311, which corresponds to the following formula:

[0231]

[0232] The weight % of crosslinking agent (and dye) mentioned in the examples below are again based on the liming weight of the collagenous substrate used, and the process described below also starts after the deliming process (see above).

[0233] Specific Example A: Tanning method of UK source cow hide using the colorless reactive tanning agent according to formula (2) alone

[0234] (a) A rotating drum is used which is kept rotating throughout the following process, except for the required powder addition, necessary technical checks (e.g. pH, temperature, etc.) and drainage.

[0235] (b) 30 wt% water based on the liming weight of the hides was added to the drum and hides at 30 + / - 1°C.

[0236] (c) The pH range of the feed liquor and hides was adjusted to 6.8 + / - 0.2. This was done by checking the pH of a cross section of the hide using a bromothymol blue indicator (a green colour should be observed) and measuring the pH of the aqueous feed liquor using a calibrated pH meter.

[0237] (d) 2.5 wt% anhydrous sodium sulphate based on the liming weight of the hides was added to the drum. This was run for a period of 15 minutes.

[0238] (e) 5 wt. % of a colorless reactive tanning agent according to formula [2], based on the liming weight of the hide, was then added to the drum over a period of 120 minutes.

[0239] (f) A total of 2 wt% sodium bicarbonate and 1.3 wt% sodium carbonate, based on the liming weight of the hide, was then added in four equal additions every 30 minutes to achieve a pH of 9.3 as measured by a calibrated pH meter.

[0240] (g) The drum continued to operate for 480 minutes, while the pH of the feed solution was regularly checked to ensure that it was not less than pH 9.2. During this period, the drum naturally heated up due to internal friction and increased from 30°C to 36°C.

[0241] (h) The drum is then drained for 10 minutes.

[0242] (i) The leather was then washed for a period of 30 minutes with 100 wt. % water at 30° C. and 1 wt. % formic acid, based on the liming weight of the hide.

[0243] (j) The drum was then drained for 10 minutes.

[0244] (k) The leather is then washed with 100 wt. % water at 30° C. and 1 wt. % formic acid, based on the liming weight of the hide, for a period of 30 minutes.

[0245] (l) The drum is then drained for 10 minutes.

[0246] (m) The leather is then washed for a period of 60 minutes with 100 wt% water at 20°C based on the liming weight of the hide and 0.25 wt% formic acid and 0.15 wt% commercial leather biocide (Preventol WB) based on the liming weight of the hide. The pH of the feed is checked to ensure it is 4.8 + / - 0.2. A cross section of the leather is checked with bromocresol green indicator solution and should be green-blue.

[0247] (n) The leather was then removed and 'horsed up' for a period of 24 hours before further standard leather processing.

[0248] Figure 1 Shown are differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) graphs (3 replicates) illustrating the hydrothermal stability of specific example A according to the invention (the "onset" temperature is the value considered as the hydrothermal stability).

[0249] Specific Example B: Tanning and dyeing method (a) of Ethiopian Hairsheep Skins using a colorless reactive tanning agent according to formula (2) and a reactive dye in combination uses a rotating drum which is kept rotating throughout the following method, except for the required powder addition, necessary technical checks (such as pH, temperature, etc.) and drainage process.

[0250] (b) Add 40 wt. % water based on the liming weight of the skins to the drum and skins inside at 27 + / - 1°C.

[0251] (c) The pH range of the feed liquor and bare skins was adjusted to 6.6 + / - 0.2. This was measured by checking the pH of the bare skin cross section using a bromocresol purple indicator (a purple color should be observed) and using a calibrated pH meter for the aqueous feed liquor.

[0252] (d) 2.0 wt% anhydrous sodium sulphate based on the liming weight of the bare hides was added to the drum. This was run for a period of 15 minutes.

[0253] (e) 3% by weight of a colourless reactive tanning agent according to formula (2) and 2.5% by weight of a reactive dye, based on the liming weight of the hides, were then added to the drum over a period of 90 minutes.

[0254] (f) Perform a penetration check to ensure that the dye has adequately penetrated the cross section of the bare hide.

[0255] (g) A total of 1.5 wt% sodium bicarbonate, 1 wt% sodium formate and 1.5 wt% potassium carbonate (based on the liming weight of the pelt) was added in five equal additions every 20 minutes to achieve a pH of 9.4 as measured by a calibrated pH meter.

[0256] (h) The drum was run for a further 420 minutes, with the pH of the feed being checked periodically to ensure that it did not fall below pH 9.2. During this period, the drum was programmed to increase in temperature by a gradient of 1.5°C every 60 minutes to obtain a final drum temperature of 37.5°C.

[0257] (i) The drum was then drained for 10 minutes.

[0258] (j) The leather was then washed for a period of 20 minutes with 125 wt. % of water at 35° C., based on the liming weight of the hide, and 1.1 wt. % of formic acid, based on the liming weight of the hide.

[0259] (k) The drum was then drained for 10 minutes.

[0260] (1) The leather was then washed for a period of 30 minutes with 125 wt. % of water at 25° C., based on the liming weight of the bare hide, and 0.8 wt. % of formic acid, based on the liming weight of the bare hide.

[0261] (m) The drum is then drained for 10 minutes.

[0262] (n) The leather was then washed for a period of 90 minutes with 80 wt% water at 20°C and 0.3 wt% formic acid and 0.15 wt% commercial leather biocide (Preventol WB), based on the liming weight of the bare hide. The pH of the liquor was checked to ensure it was 4.8 + / - 0.2.

[0263] (o) The leather was then removed and 'horsed up' for a period of 18 hours before further standard leather processing.

[0264] The colorfastness of Specific Example B was Greyscale Rating 5 for water contact and Greyscale Rating 4.5 for sweat contact on both the front and inside surfaces (both were evaluated on the cotton area of ​​the multi-fiber strip).

[0265] Figure 2A Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) graph (3 replicates) illustrating the hydrothermal stability of specific example B according to the invention is shown (the "onset" temperature is the value considered as the hydrothermal stability).

[0266] Specific Example C: Tanning and dyeing method of Indian goatskin using a colorless reactive tanning agent according to formula (2) and an anionic dye

[0267] (a) A rotating drum is used which is kept rotating throughout the following process, except for the required powder addition, necessary technical checks (e.g. pH, temperature, etc.) and drainage.

[0268] (b) Add 25 wt. % water based on the liming weight of the skins to the drum and skins inside at 28 + / - 1 °C.

[0269] (c) The pH range of the aqueous feed and bare skin was adjusted to 7.0 + / - 0.2. This was measured by checking the pH of the bare skin cross section using a phenol red indicator (a yellow colour should be observed) and using a calibrated pH meter for the aqueous feed.

[0270] (d) 2.0 wt% anhydrous sodium sulphate and 0.5 wt% sodium chloride, based on the liming weight of the bare hides, were then added to the drum. This was run for a period of 30 minutes.

[0271] (e) 6.0 wt. % of a colorless reactive tanning agent according to formula [2] and 0.5 wt. % of Acid Black 210 (in powder form from a general supplier), based on the liming weight of the hides, were then added to the drum over a period of 100 minutes.

[0272] (f) Perform a penetration check to ensure that the dye has adequately penetrated the cross section of the bare hide.

[0273] (g) A total of 1.75 wt% potassium bicarbonate, 1.5 wt% sodium formate, 1 wt% anhydrous sodium sulphate and 1.5 wt% potassium carbonate, based on the liming weight of the pelt, were added in six equal additions every 25 minutes to achieve a pH of 9.6 as measured by a calibrated pH meter.

[0274] (h) The drum was continued to run for 360 minutes, and the pH of the feed solution was checked regularly to ensure that it was not less than pH 9.2. During this period, the drum was naturally heated to obtain a final drum temperature of 34°C.

[0275] (i) The drum was then drained for 10 minutes.

[0276] (j) The leather was then washed with 125% by weight of water at 35° C. and 1.1% by weight of formic acid over a period of 30 minutes.

[0277] (k) The drum was then drained for 10 minutes.

[0278] (l) The leather was then washed with 175% by weight of water at 25° C. and 1.1% by weight of formic acid over a period of 30 minutes.

[0279] (m) Check the pH of the feed solution to ensure it is 5.0 + / - 0.2.

[0280] (n) 0.15% of a commercial leather biocide (Preventol WB) was then added over a period of 120 minutes.

[0281] (o) The leather was then removed and 'horsed up' for a period of 36 hours before further standard leather processing.

[0282] The hydrothermal stability as tested by the standard method of ISO 3380:2015 for the irreversible shrinkage of Specific Example C is 78°C.

[0283] The colorfastness of Specific Example C was Greyscale Rating 3.5 for water contact and Greyscale Rating 2.5 for sweat contact on both the front and inside surfaces (both were evaluated on the cotton area of ​​the multi-fiber strip).

[0284] The following specific examples D and E each illustrate a specific crosslinking (tanning) method for a specific collagenous substrate using a crosslinking agent according to formula [2] (with and without simultaneous dyeing). The weight % of the crosslinking agent (and dye) mentioned in the following examples is based on the drained pickling weight of the collagenous substrate used, and the method described below starts with a material that has been previously pickled.

[0285] Specific Example D: Tanning method of Spanish source goatskin using the colorless reactive tanning agent according to formula (2) alone

[0286] (a) A rotating drum is used which is kept rotating throughout the following process, except for the required addition of powder, necessary technical checks (e.g. pH, temperature, etc.), addition of pickled hides and drainage.

[0287] (b) 100 wt % of water at 25 + / - 1°C, 6 wt % of sodium chloride, 0.25 wt % of EDTA and 0.5 wt % of a non-ionic surfactant (100 % active content, such as Eusapon OC) based on the pickling weight of the goatskin are added to the drum and the drum is rotated for a period of 15 minutes.

[0288] (c) Add pickled goatskins to the drum, along with 4 wt% sodium bicarbonate based on the pickled weight of the goatskins. This is run for a period of 120 minutes.

[0289] (d) Check that the pH of the feed and goatskin is in the range of 6.8 + / - 0.2. This is done by checking the pH of a cross section of the goatskin using bromothymol blue indicator (a green colour should be observed) and measuring the pH of the aqueous feed using a calibrated pH meter.

[0290] (e) The drum was then drained for 10 minutes.

[0291] (f) 250 wt% of water at 30 + / - 1°C, based on the pickling weight of the goatskin, was added to the drum and the drum was rotated for a period of 20 minutes.

[0292] (g) The drum was then drained for 10 minutes.

[0293] (h) 250 wt% of water at 30 + / - 1°C, based on the pickling weight of the goatskin, was added to the drum and the drum was rotated for a period of 20 minutes.

[0294] (i) The drum was then drained for 10 minutes.

[0295] (j) 250 wt% of water at 30 + / - 1°C, based on the pickling weight of the goatskin, was added to the drum and the drum was rotated for a period of 20 minutes.

[0296] (k) The drum is then drained for 10 minutes.

[0297] (1) 45 wt% of water at 28 + / - 1°C, based on the pickling weight of goatskin, was added to the drum and the drum was rotated for a period of 15 minutes.

[0298] (m) Check again that the pH of the feed and goatskin is in the range of 6.8 + / - 0.2. This is done by checking the pH of a cross section of the goatskin using bromothymol blue indicator (a green colour should be observed) and measuring the pH of the aqueous feed using a calibrated pH meter.

[0299] (n) 5 wt % of anhydrous sodium sulfate based on the pickling weight of the goatskin is added to the drum. This is run for 15 minutes.

[0300] (o) 9 wt. % of a colorless reactive tanning agent according to formula [2], based on the pickling weight of the goatskin, was then added to the drum over a period of 120 minutes.

[0301] (p) A total of 3.6 wt% potassium bicarbonate and 2.4 wt% potassium carbonate based on the pickling weight of the goatskin was then added in four equal additions every 40 minutes to achieve a pH of 9.4 as measured by a calibrated pH meter.

[0302] (q) The drum continued to run for 400 minutes, while the pH of the feed solution was regularly checked to ensure that it was not less than pH 9.2. During this period, the drum naturally heated up due to internal friction and increased from 30°C to 35°C.

[0303] (r) The drum is then drained for 10 minutes.

[0304] (s) The leather is then washed for a period of 30 minutes with 150 wt. % water at 30° C. and 1.4 wt. % formic acid, based on the pickling weight of the goatskin.

[0305] (t) The drum is then drained for 10 minutes.

[0306] (u) The leather is then washed for a period of 30 minutes with 150% by weight of water at 30° C. and 1.25% by weight of formic acid, based on the pickling weight of the goatskin.

[0307] (v) The drum was then drained for 10 minutes.

[0308] (w) The leather is then washed for a period of 60 minutes with 100 wt% water at 20°C and 0.35 wt% formic acid based on the pickling weight of the goatskin and 0.25 wt% commercial leather biocide (Preventol WB) based on the pickling weight of the goatskin. The pH of the feed is checked to ensure it is 4.9 + / - 0.2. A cross section of the leather is checked with a bromocresol green indicator solution and should be green-blue.

[0309] (x) The leather was then removed and 'horsed up' for a period of 36 hours before further standard leather processing.

[0310] The hydrothermal stability as tested by the standard method of ISO 3380:2015 for the irreversible shrinkage of Specific Example D is 79°C.

[0311] Specific Example E: Tanning and dyeing method of Australian Kangaroo Skins using a colorless reactive tanning agent according to formula (2) and a reactive dye

[0312] (a) A rotating drum is used which is kept rotating throughout the following process, except for the required addition of powder, necessary technical checks (e.g. pH, temperature, etc.), addition of pickled hides and drainage.

[0313] (b) 125 wt% water at 23 + / - 1°C, 7 wt% sodium chloride, 0.3 wt% EDTA and 0.4 wt% non-ionic surfactant (100% active content, such as Eusapon OC) based on the pickling weight of the kangaroo skin are added to the drum and the drum is rotated for a period of 15 minutes.

[0314] (c) Add the pickled kangaroo skins to the drum along with 4.25 wt% sodium bicarbonate and 0.5 wt% sodium formate based on the pickled weight of the kangaroo skins. This is run for a period of 180 minutes.

[0315] (d) Check that the pH of the feed liquor and kangaroo skin is in the range of 6.6 + / - 0.2. This is done by checking the pH of a cross section of the goat skin using bromocresol purple indicator (a purple colour should be observed) and measuring the pH of the aqueous feed liquor using a calibrated pH meter.

[0316] (e) The drum was then drained for 10 minutes.

[0317] (f) 250 wt% of water at 30 + / - 1°C, based on the pickling weight of the pickled kangaroo skin, was added to the drum and the drum was rotated for a period of 15 minutes.

[0318] (g) The drum was then drained for 10 minutes.

[0319] (h) 200 wt% of water at 30 + / - 1°C, based on the pickling weight of the kangaroo skin, was added to the drum and the drum was rotated for a period of 20 minutes.

[0320] (i) The drum was then drained for 10 minutes.

[0321] (j) 200 wt% of water at 30 + / - 1°C, based on the pickling weight of the kangaroo skin, was added to the drum and the drum was rotated for a period of 20 minutes.

[0322] (k) The drum is then drained for 10 minutes.

[0323] (1) 40 wt% of water at 30 + / - 1°C, based on the pickling weight of the kangaroo skin, was added to the drum and the drum was rotated for a period of 20 minutes.

[0324] (m) The pH range of the feed liquor and bare skins was adjusted to 6.7 + / - 0.2. This was measured by checking the pH of the bare skin cross section using bromocresol purple indicator (a purple color should be observed) and using a calibrated pH meter for the aqueous feed liquor.

[0325] (n) 5.0 wt% anhydrous sodium sulfate based on the pickling weight of the kangaroo skin is added to the drum. This is run for a period of 25 minutes.

[0326] (o) 3.5 wt% of a colourless reactive tanning agent according to formula (2) and 5 wt% of a reactive dye, based on the pickling weight of the kangaroo skin, were then added to the drum over a period of 120 minutes.

[0327] (p) Perform a penetration check to ensure that the dye has adequately penetrated the cross section of the bare skin.

[0328] (q) A total of 1.95 wt% sodium bicarbonate, 0.5 wt% sodium formate and 1.75 wt% sodium carbonate (based on the pickling weight of the kangaroo skin) was added in five equal additions every 20 minutes to achieve a pH of 9.5 as measured by a calibrated pH meter.

[0329] (r) The drum was run for a further 420 minutes, with the pH of the feed being checked periodically to ensure that it did not drop below pH 9.2. During this period, the drum was programmed to increase in temperature by a gradient of 1.0°C every 60 minutes to obtain a final drum temperature of 36°C.

[0330] (s) The drum was then drained for 10 minutes.

[0331] (t) The leather is then washed for a period of 30 minutes with 150% by weight, based on the pickling weight of the kangaroo skin, of water at 33°C and 1.5% by weight, based on the pickling weight of the kangaroo skin.

[0332] (u) The drum is then drained for 10 minutes.

[0333] (v) The leather was then washed for a period of 30 minutes with 200 wt% water at 30°C based on the pickling weight of the kangaroo skin and 1.25 wt% formic acid based on the pickling weight of the bare hide.

[0334] (w) The drum is then drained for 10 minutes.

[0335] (x) The leather was then washed for a period of 75 minutes with 100 wt% water at 25°C and 0.5 wt% formic acid and 0.25 wt% commercial leather biocide (Preventol WB) based on the pickling weight of the kangaroo skin. The pH of the liquor was checked to ensure it was 4.8 + / - 0.2.

[0336] (y) The leather was then removed and 'horsed up' for a period of 24 hours before further standard leather processing.

[0337] Figure 3 A Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) graph (3 replicates) illustrating the hydrothermal stability of specific example E according to the invention is shown (the "onset" temperature is the value considered as the hydrothermal stability).

[0338] The colorfastness of Specific Example E was Greyscale Rating 5 for water contact and Greyscale Rating 4.5 for sweat contact on both the front and inside surfaces (both were evaluated on the cotton area of ​​the multi-fiber strip).

[0339] Specific Example F and Comparative Example 1: Tanning method of British origin cowhide using reactive tanning agent of formula (A) and composition 2 described in WO2010 / 130311 respectively

[0340] Two limed splits of cattle hides were used for Specific Example F and Comparative Example 1, respectively, and the hide pieces were taken adjacent to each other from the same hide to minimize any variation in the tanning process.

[0341] Specific Example F: Tanning method according to specific example A using the colorless reactive tanning agent according to formula (2) alone

[0342] The above hides were tanned with a reactive agent according to formula (2) according to the method described in Specific Example A and using 5.7 wt% reactive tanning agent, the same pH and time conditions as disclosed in Specific Example A.

[0343] Comparative Example 1: Tanning method using composition 2 according to application example A described in WO 2010 / 130311

[0344] The above hides were tanned according to the method described in Application Example A of WO 2010 / 130311 by using Composition 2 disclosed in WO 2010 / 130311. In Application Example A of WO 2010 / 130311, 10% of Composition 2 was used in the tanning process, which was equivalent to 5.7% by weight of reactive tanning agent of formula (2) according to Specific Example F, calculated on the number of moles added.

[0345] Figure 4 Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) graphs are shown illustrating the hydrothermal stability of Specific Example F according to the invention and Comparative Example 1 (the "onset" temperature is the value considered as the hydrothermal stability).

[0346] Figure 4 The hydrothermal stability of the hides tanned with the reactive agent according to the invention proved to be 79.6°C, whereas the hydrothermal stability of the hides tanned with the reactive agent not according to the invention was only 72.3°C.

[0347] Specific Example G: Measurement of the hydrothermal stability of hides tanned according to Specific Example F after aging for 4 months

[0348] A sample of the tanned rawhide sheet obtained in Specific Example F was taken out and placed in a container, and the sample was immersed in deionized water. The container was then sealed and stored at room temperature for 4 months.

[0349] The samples were then removed from the sealed container and tested for hydrothermal stability using the DSC analysis test method described above.

[0350] Figure 5 A Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) graph illustrating the hydrothermal stability of specific example G according to the invention is shown (the "onset" temperature is the value considered as the hydrothermal stability).

[0351] Figure 5 It was demonstrated that, after the ageing process, the hydrothermal stability of the hides tanned with the reactive tanning agent according to the invention increased from 79.6° C. to 84.9° C. This result means not only that the crosslinking / tanning effect is permanent, but also that it improves over time.

Claims

1. Use of a reactive, colorless protein crosslinker for the crosslinking of protein-based substrates having amine and optionally OH functional groups, said crosslinker corresponding to a compound according to formula [1]: in -L 1 and L 5 are each independently selected from H or C1-C4 alkyl, and -L 2 , L 3 , L 4 , L 6 , L 7 and L 8 Each independently selected from H, C1-C4 alkyl, SO 3 H.OL 22 , where L 22 is selected from H or C1-C4 alkyl, and -X is selected from Cl, F or nicotinic acid, and -K 1 , K 2 , K 3 and K 4 are each independently selected from -H or a protein reactive group, The protein-based substrate is selected from collagen-containing fiber materials, gelatin, silk protein, elastin, soy, synthetic protein and / or silk.

2. The use according to claim 1, wherein the protein reactive group is selected from --SO 2 -Y, --NH-(CH 2 ) 2-3 -SO 2 -Y, --NH-CO-(CH 2 ) 2-3 -SO 2 -Yes, --NH-(CH 2 ) 2 -O-(CH 2 ) 2 -SO 2 -Yes, --NH-CO-CHW-CH 2 -W, or --NH-CO-C(W)=CH 2 Wherein Y is selected from -CH 2 -CH 2 -U or -CH=CH 2 , U and W are independently groups that can be removed under alkaline conditions.

3. The use according to claim 2, wherein U and W are independently selected from --Cl, -Br or -F, --BEAR 3 H, --SO 3 H, --OCO-CH 3 , --OPO 3 A 2 , --OCO-C 6 H 5 , --OSO 2 -C 1 -C 4 Alkyl, or --OSO 2 N(C 1 -C 4 alkyl) 2 .

4. The method according to claim 2 or 3, wherein U and W are independently selected from -Cl, -OSO 3 H, -SO 3 H、-OCO-CH 3 、-OCO-C 6 H 5 or-OPO 3 H 2 .

5. The use according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein U and W are independently selected from -Cl or -OSO 3 H.

6. The use according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein U and W are independently selected from -OSO 3 H.

7. The use according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein K 1 , K 2 , K 3 and K 4 Each independently selected from H, SO 2 -CH=CH 2 or -SO 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -U, and wherein U is a group removable under basic conditions.

8. The use according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the protein-based substrate is selected from natural collagen-containing fibrous materials.

9. The method according to claim 8, wherein the natural collagen-containing fibrous material is selected from the group consisting of furs, hides and skins.

10. The use according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the crosslinking agent is selected from compounds according to formula [2], [3], [4], [5], [6], [7], [8], [9] or [10]:

11. Use according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 3, in combination with at least one dye.

12. Use according to any of the preceding claims 1 to 3, in combination with a monofunctional, bifunctional, trifunctional and / or polyfunctional dye having at least one protein-reactive group.

13. The use according to claim 12, wherein the at least one dye is selected from compounds according to formula [20] and [21] A 1 -(Z 1 ) 2-3 [20], and in -A 1 , A 2 and A 3 each independently of the other being a monoazo, polyazo, metal complex azo, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, formazan or dioxazine chromophore having at least one sulfonic group, -B is an organic bridge member, -Q 1 , Q 2 , Q 3 and Q 4 are independently hydrogen or unsubstituted or substituted C 1 -C 4 Alkyl, and -G 1 and G 2 is halogen, 3-carboxypyridin-1-yl or 3-carbamoylpyridin-1-yl, -(Z 1 ) 2-3 are 2 to 3 identical or different protein-reactive groups, and -Z 2 and Z 3 each independently of the others is the same or a different protein-reactive group, and -b is a numeric value of 0 or 1.

14. The use according to claim 13, wherein the protein reactive group Z 1 , Z 2 and Z 3 Each independently of the other is a group of the formula <h2 style=";text-align:left;direction:ltr">--SO<h2 style=";text-align:left;direction:ltr"> 2 <h2 style=";text-align:left;direction:ltr"> -Y (3a), --NH-CO-(CH 2 ) 1 -SO 2 -Y (3b), --CONR 2 -(CH 2 ) m -SO 2 -Y (3c), --NH-CO-CH(Hal)-CH 2 -Hal (3d), --NH-CO-C(Hal)=CH 2 (3e), - or - in -Hal is chlorine or bromine; -X 1 is halogen, 3-carboxypyridin-1-yl or 3-carbamoylpyridin-1-yl; -T 1 Independently has X 1 or a protein-free substituent or a protein-reactive group of the formula: - - - - - or - in -R 1 , R 1a and R 1b are independently hydrogen or C 1 -C 4 alkyl, -R 2 It is hydrogen, C 1 -C 4 Alkyl, which is unsubstituted or substituted by hydroxy, sulfo, sulfate, carboxyl or cyano, or a group -R 3 It is hydrogen, hydroxyl, sulfonate, sulfate, carboxyl, cyano, halogen, C 1 -C 4 Alkoxycarbonyl, C 1 -C 4 Alkanoyloxy, carbamoyl or group -SO 2 -Y, -alk and alk 1 Independently of each other, they are straight chain or branched chain C 1 -C 6 Alkylene, -Arylene is phenylene or naphthylene, which is unsubstituted or substituted by sulfonyl, carboxyl, C 1 -C 4 Alkyl, C 1 -C 4 Alkoxy or halogen substituted, -Q is a group -O- or -NR 1 -, where R 1 As defined above, -W is the group -SO 2 -NR 2 -、-CONR 2 -or-NR 2 CO-, where R 2 As defined above, -Y is vinyl or a group -CH 2 -CH 2 -U, and U is a group that can be cleaved under alkaline conditions, -Y 1 It is the group -CH(Hal)-CH 2 -Hal or -C(Hal)=CH 2 , and Hal is chlorine or bromine, and - l and m are independently integers from 1 to 6, and n is a value of 0 or 1; and -X 2 Is halogen or C 1 -C 4 Alkylsulfonyl; -X 3 Is halogen or C 1 -C 4 Alkyl; and -T 2 is hydrogen, cyano or halogen.

15. Use according to claim 11, wherein the dye is selected from acid dyes comprising an acid group.

16. The method according to claim 15, wherein the acidic group is selected from SO 3 H and COOH.

17. A method for crosslinking a protein-based substrate having amine and optionally OH functional groups, the method comprising treating the protein-based substrate with a crosslinking agent according to any one of claims 1 to 10, the method comprising at least the following steps: - placing the substrate in a liquid medium at a temperature of 10°C to 50°C in a process vessel, - adding the crosslinking agent to the liquid medium in an amount of 1 wt % to 40 wt % based on the dry weight of the protein-based substrate, - allowing the cross-linking agent to penetrate into the protein-based matrix for a period of time, - adjusting the pH of the liquid medium to allow the crosslinking agent to react with the protein-reactive groups in the protein-based substrate to complete the crosslinking reaction, and then - Rinsing / washing of the cross-linked substrate is performed.

18. The method according to claim 17, wherein the process vessel is a rotating drum.

19. The method according to claim 17, comprising placing the substrate in a liquid medium at a temperature of 20°C to 40°C in a process vessel.

20. The method according to claim 17, comprising placing the substrate in a liquid medium at a temperature of 25°C to 30°C in a process vessel.

21. The method according to claim 17, comprising adding the crosslinking agent to the liquid medium in an amount of 10 wt% to 30 wt% based on the dry weight of the protein-based substrate.

22. The method according to claim 17, comprising adding the crosslinking agent to the liquid medium in an amount of 16 wt% to 25 wt% based on the dry weight of the protein-based substrate.

23. A method for simultaneously crosslinking and dyeing a protein-based substrate having amine and optionally OH functional groups, the method comprising treating the protein-based substrate with a crosslinker according to any one of claims 1 to 10 and a dye according to any one of claims 11 to 14, the method comprising at least the following steps: - placing the substrate in a liquid medium at a temperature of 10°C to 50°C in a process vessel, - adding the crosslinking agent and the dye to the aqueous liquid in amounts such that the amount of the crosslinking agent is 1 wt% to 39 wt% and the amount of the dye is 1 wt% to 39 wt% based on the dry weight of the protein-based substrate, - allowing the crosslinker and dye to penetrate into the protein-based matrix for a period of time, - adjusting the pH of the liquid medium to allow the crosslinking agent and dye to react with the protein-reactive groups in the protein-based substrate to complete the crosslinking and dyeing reactions, and then - Rinsing / washing of the crosslinked and dyed substrate is performed.

24. The method according to claim 23, wherein the process vessel is a rotating drum.

25. The method according to claim 23, comprising placing the substrate in a liquid medium at a temperature of 20°C to 40°C in a process vessel.

26. The method according to claim 23, comprising placing the substrate in a liquid medium at a temperature of 25°C to 30°C in a process vessel.

27. The method according to claim 23, comprising adding the crosslinking agent and dye to the aqueous liquid in amounts such that the amount of crosslinking agent is from 5 wt% to 25 wt% based on the dry weight of the protein-based substrate.

28. The method according to claim 23, comprising adding the crosslinking agent and dye to the aqueous liquid in amounts such that the amount of crosslinking agent is from 10 wt% to 20 wt% based on the dry weight of the protein-based substrate.

29. The method according to claim 23, comprising adding the crosslinking agent and dye to the aqueous liquid in amounts such that the amount of dye is from 5 wt% to 25 wt% based on the dry weight of the protein-based substrate.

30. The method according to claim 23, comprising adding the crosslinking agent and dye to the aqueous liquid in amounts such that the amount of dye is from 10 wt% to 20 wt% based on the dry weight of the protein-based substrate.

31. A method for crosslinking and dyeing a protein-based substrate having amine and optionally OH functional groups, said method comprising treating the protein-based substrate with a crosslinker according to any one of claims 1 to 10 and treating the protein-based substrate with a dye according to any one of claims 11 to 14 in two different steps before fixation, said method comprising at least the following steps: - placing the substrate in a liquid medium at a temperature of 10°C to 50°C in a process vessel, - adding the crosslinking agent to the liquid medium, - adding the dye to the liquid medium, and then - optionally allowing said crosslinking agent and said dye to penetrate into said protein-based substrate for a period of time, - optionally adjusting the pH of the liquid medium to allow the crosslinking agent and dye to react with the protein-reactive groups in the protein-based substrate to achieve crosslinking and dyeing, and then - rinsing / washing of the crosslinked and dyed substrate, The amounts of the cross-linking agent and the dye are such that the total weight % of the cross-linking agent and the dye is 1 wt % to 40 wt % based on the dry weight of the protein-based substrate.

32. The method according to claim 31, wherein the process vessel is a rotating drum.

33. The method according to claim 31, comprising placing the substrate in a liquid medium at a temperature of 20°C to 40°C in a process vessel.

34. The method according to claim 31, comprising placing the substrate in a liquid medium at a temperature of 25°C to 30°C in a process vessel.

35. The method according to claim 31, wherein the amount of the crosslinker and the dye is such that the combined weight % of the crosslinker and the dye is from 10 wt% to 30 wt% based on the dry weight of the protein-based substrate.

36. The method according to claim 31, wherein the amount of the crosslinker and the dye is such that the combined weight % of the crosslinker and the dye is from 16 wt% to 25 wt% based on the dry weight of the protein-based substrate.

37. A cross-linked protein-based substrate obtainable by a method according to any one of claims 17 to 22.

38. A cross-linked and dyed protein-based substrate obtainable by a method according to any one of claims 23 to 36.

39. The substrate according to any one of claims 37 or 38, wherein the substrate is selected from the group consisting of collagen-containing fibrous materials, gelatin, silk protein, elastin and soy.

40. The substrate according to any one of claims 37 or 38, wherein the substrate is selected from natural collagen-containing fibrous materials, synthetic proteins and / or silk.

41. A substrate according to claim 40, wherein the natural collagen-containing fibrous material is selected from furs, hides and skins.

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