Anhydrous composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials
By designing anhydrous compositions containing specific ingredients, the problems of greasiness and poor coverage in lipsticks and lip glosses are solved, providing an easy-to-apply matte finish and a lightweight feel, enhancing the care and makeup effect.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Patents(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2021-04-30
- Publication Date
- 2026-04-14
AI Technical Summary
Existing lipsticks and lip glosses tend to be greasy during application and fail to provide a matte finish or good coverage, resulting in a poor user experience.
An anhydrous composition is used, comprising silicone resin-coated organopolysiloxane elastomer powder, organopolysiloxane elastomer transported in oil, polymethylsilsesquioxane and calcium aluminum borosilicate filler, and volatile hydrocarbon oil, avoiding the use of wax, and ensuring that the filler content in the composition is greater than 15%.
It achieves easy application, provides a matte finish and a lightweight feel, and enhances the user's skincare and makeup experience.
Smart Images

Figure BDA0004520082780000211 
Figure BDA0004520082780000221
Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] This invention relates to compositions for use as skincare and / or cosmetic keratin materials. More particularly, this invention relates to anhydrous compositions for use as skincare and / or cosmetic keratin materials. This invention also relates to cosmetic methods using skincare and / or cosmetic keratin materials. Background Technology
[0002] The ongoing goal is to develop formulations for cosmetic and / or skin care and / or lip care that are satisfactory in terms of application, comfort (especially non-greasy), good coverage, and cosmetic effect.
[0003] Lipstick has become a necessity and is considered by users as the overwhelming primary method of applying care and / or makeup to their lips. Lipstick can alter a user's facial features. For example, it can make narrow lips appear wider and wide lips appear narrower. In addition to changing the shape of the lips, lipstick can also be made in a wide variety of colors and shades to enhance the desired effect or express the wearer's mood.
[0004] However, some lipsticks are not easy to apply, and the resulting matte finish is still insufficient.
[0005] In the case of cosmetic lips, compositions in fluid form commonly referred to as lip glosses for cosmetic purposes on the skin or lips are also known. These compositions typically lack wax and generally contain at least one non-volatile oil with a molecular weight greater than 600 g / mol.
[0006] However, the deposits produced by such liquid compositions are often relatively glossy and / or greasy on the lips, which is a source of user discomfort.
[0007] At the same time, some cosmetic products using keratin materials for care and / or makeup do not provide good coverage, which is undesirable.
[0008] Therefore, there remains a demand for compositions for use in the care and / or cosmetic keratin materials (especially for lips) that are easy to apply and provide a matte finish and a lightweight feel. Invention Overview
[0010] Therefore, one object of the present invention is to develop compositions for use in the care and / or cosmetic application of keratin materials (especially for the lips) that are easy to apply and capable of providing a matte finish and a lightweight feel.
[0011] Another object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic method for caring for and / or applying keratin materials (e.g., skin and lips, especially lips) that will produce a matte deposit with a light feel on the keratin material.
[0012] Therefore, according to a first aspect, the present invention provides an anhydrous composition for use as a care and / or cosmetic keratin material, which is a liquid and comprises:
[0013] a) At least one organopolysiloxane elastomer powder coated with silicone resin;
[0014] b) at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer transported in the first oil;
[0015] c) At least two fillers, comprising polymethylsilsesquioxane and calcium aluminum borosilicate; and
[0016] d) At least one second oil, which is a volatile hydrocarbon oil.
[0017] The composition does not contain wax and contains more than 15% by weight of filler relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0018] According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic method for caring for and / or applying keratin materials, comprising applying an anhydrous composition as described above to the keratin material.
[0019] It has been found that the anhydrous composition according to the invention is easy to apply and can provide a matte finish and a light feel.
[0020] Other subjects, features, aspects, and advantages of the invention will become even clearer as you read the following description and embodiments. Invention Details
[0022] Unless otherwise indicated, the upper and lower limits of the numerical ranges used herein are included within the range, especially in expressions “between … and …” and “… to ….”.
[0023] As used herein, the term “includes” should be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, or unspecified features.
[0024] As used herein, the use of the term “comprising / including” also discloses an implementation in which no features other than those specifically mentioned (i.e., “composed of”) are present.
[0025] The expression "at least one" as used in this application is equivalent to the expression "one or more kinds of".
[0026] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention pertains. Where the definitions of terms in this specification conflict with the meanings commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention pertains, the definitions described herein shall apply.
[0027] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values representing quantities of ingredients, etc., used in the specification and claims should be understood to be modified by the term "about". Therefore, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate and can be varied as needed to obtain the desired performance.
[0028] For the purposes of this invention, the term "anhydrous" means that, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention, the composition contains less than 2% by weight, and preferably less than 0.5% by weight, of water. Where appropriate, such small amounts of water may be provided by components of the composition that contain water in residual amounts, but this is not intentionally provided.
[0029] The term "wax" should be understood to refer to lipophilic compounds that are solid at ambient temperature (25°C), have a reversible solid / liquid state change, and have a melting point of 30°C or higher, which can be as high as 120°C.
[0030] Unless otherwise specified, all percentages in this application refer to weight percentages.
[0031] As used herein, the term "keratin material" refers to skin and lips. Regarding "skin," we intend to mean all body skin, including the scalp. Preferably, keratin material refers to the lips.
[0032] The anhydrous composition according to the present invention comprises:
[0033] a) At least one organopolysiloxane elastomer powder coated with silicone resin;
[0034] b) at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer transported in the first oil;
[0035] c) At least two fillers, comprising polymethylsilsesquioxane and calcium aluminum borosilicate; and
[0036] d) At least one second oil, which is a volatile hydrocarbon oil.
[0037] The composition does not contain wax and contains more than 15% by weight of filler relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0038] Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not contain a paste-like compound.
[0039] The term "pasty fatty substance" is intended to refer to lipophilic fatty compounds that undergo a reversible solid / liquid state change, exhibit anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state, and contain both liquid and solid portions at a temperature of 23°C.
[0040] silicone resin coated organopolysiloxane elastomer powder
[0041] According to a first aspect of the invention, the anhydrous composition comprises at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer powder coated with a silicone resin (especially a sesquioxane resin), such as that described in, for example, patent US5,538,793 (the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference).
[0042] These elastomer powders are sold by Shin-Etsu under the names KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP-102, KSP-103, KSP-104 and KSP-105, and have the INCI name: Vinyl polydimethylsiloxane / polymethylsiloxane silsesquioxane crosslinked polymer.
[0043] Preferably, the silicone resin-coated organopolysiloxane elastomer powder is a compound with the INCI name of vinyl polydimethylsiloxane / polymethylsiloxane sesquisiloxane crosslinked polymer.
[0044] Advantageously, the amount of silicone resin-coated organopolysiloxane elastomer powder in the composition ranges from 0.5% to 10% by weight, preferably from 1% to 8% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition of the present invention.
[0045] Organopolysiloxane elastomer transported in the first oil
[0046] According to a first aspect of the invention, the anhydrous composition comprises at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer (also known as a silicone elastomer) delivered in a first oil, particularly in the form of an organopolysiloxane elastomer gel.
[0047] Preferably, the first oil is a silicone oil and / or a hydrocarbon oil, which is preferably non-volatile.
[0048] Preferably, the composition comprises at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer delivered in at least one non-volatile silicone oil of the INCI name polydimethylsiloxane.
[0049] The terms "organopolysiloxane elastomer" or "silicone elastomer" refer to soft, deformable organopolysiloxanes that possess viscoelastic properties and, in particular, the consistency of a sponge or soft sphere. Their elastic modulus allows the material to withstand deformation and provides limited stretching and contraction. The material is able to return to its original shape after being stretched.
[0050] More particularly, it is a cross-linked silicone elastomer.
[0051] Silicone elastomer particles are delivered in the form of a gel, which is formed from an elastomer organopolysiloxane contained in at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or a silicone oil.
[0052] In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles are typically non-spherical.
[0053] Non-emulsified organopolysiloxane elastomers
[0054] Therefore, organopolysiloxane elastomers can be obtained by: crosslinking addition reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen with a diorganopolysiloxane containing an olefinically unsaturated group bonded to silicon, especially in the presence of a platinum catalyst; or dehydrogenation crosslinking condensation reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane containing a hydroxyl-terminated group and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen, especially in the presence of organotin; or crosslinking condensation reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane containing a hydroxyl-terminated group with a hydrolyzable organopolysiloxane; or thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxanes, especially in the presence of an organic peroxide catalyst; or crosslinking of organopolysiloxanes via high-energy radiation (e.g., gamma rays, ultraviolet rays, or electron beams).
[0055] Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction of (A) a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to silicon and (B) a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two olefinic unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, especially in the presence of (C) a platinum catalyst.
[0056] In particular, organopolysiloxane elastomers can be obtained by reacting dimethyl polysiloxane containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups with methylhydropolysiloxane containing trimethylsiloxy end groups in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
[0057] Compound (A) is the basic reactant for forming organopolysiloxane elastomers and is crosslinked via an addition reaction of compound (A) and compound (B) in the presence of catalyst (C).
[0058] Compound (A) is particularly an organopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to different silicon atoms in each molecule.
[0059] Compound (A) can have any molecular structure, especially linear or branched chain structures or cyclic structures.
[0060] Compound (A) can have a viscosity ranging from 1 to 50,000 centipoise at 25°C, which is particularly convenient for miscibility with compound (B).
[0061] The organic group bonded to the silicon atom in compound (A) can be an alkyl group, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl; a substituted alkyl group, such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; an aryl group, such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; a substituted aryl group, such as phenethyl; and a substituted monovalent hydrocarbon group, such as an epoxy group, a carboxylic acid ester group or a mercapto group.
[0062] Therefore, compound (A) can be selected from methylhydropolysiloxanes containing trimethylsiloxy groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrosiloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy groups, and dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrosiloxane cyclic copolymers.
[0063] Compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two lower alkenyl groups (e.g., C2-C4); these lower alkenyl groups can be selected from vinyl, allyl, and propenyl groups. While these lower alkenyl groups can be located at any position within the organopolysiloxane molecule, they are preferably located at the ends of the molecule. The organopolysiloxane (B) can have branched, linear, cyclic, or network structures, but a linear chain structure is preferred. Compound (B) can have viscosities ranging from liquid to colloidal. Preferably, compound (B) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25°C.
[0064] In addition to the alkenyl groups mentioned above, other organic groups bonded to silicon atoms in compound (B) may be alkyl groups, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, or octyl; substituted alkyl groups, such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups, such as phenyl, tolyl, or xylyl; substituted aryl groups, such as phenethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups, such as epoxy groups, carboxylic acid ester groups, or mercapto groups.
[0065] The organopolysiloxane (B) may be selected from methyl vinyl polysiloxane, methyl vinyl siloxane-dimethyl siloxane copolymer, dimethyl polysiloxane containing dimethyl vinyl siloxy end groups, dimethyl siloxane-methyl phenyl siloxane copolymer containing dimethyl vinyl siloxy end groups, dimethyl siloxane-diphenyl siloxane-methyl vinyl siloxane copolymer containing dimethyl vinyl siloxy end groups, dimethyl siloxane-methyl vinyl siloxane copolymer containing trimethyl siloxy end groups, dimethyl siloxane-methyl phenyl siloxane-methyl vinyl siloxane copolymer containing trimethyl siloxy end groups, methyl (3,3,3-trifluoropropyl) polysiloxane containing dimethyl vinyl siloxy end groups, and dimethyl siloxane-methyl (3,3,3-trifluoropropyl) siloxane copolymer containing dimethyl vinyl siloxy end groups.
[0066] In particular, organopolysiloxane elastomers can be obtained by reacting dimethyl polysiloxane containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups with methylhydropolysiloxane containing trimethylsiloxy end groups in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
[0067] According to another alternative form, compound (B) can be an unsaturated hydrocarbon compound containing at least two lower alkenyl groups (e.g., C2-C4); these lower alkenyl groups can be selected from vinyl, allyl, and propenyl groups. Although these lower alkenyl groups can be located at any position in the molecule, they are preferably located at the end. Hexadiene, especially 1,5-hexadiene, can be mentioned by way of example.
[0068] Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of compound (B) and the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon per molecule of compound (A) is at least 5.
[0069] Advantageously, the amount of compound (A) added is such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in compound (A) and the total amount of all olefinic unsaturated groups in compound (B) is in the range of 1.5 / 1 to 20 / 1.
[0070] Compound (C) is a catalyst for crosslinking reactions, and in particular chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black, and platinum on a support.
[0071] The catalyst (C) is preferably added in the following amounts (based on net platinum metal): 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (A) and (B), and still more preferably 1 to 100 parts by weight.
[0072] The elastomer is advantageously a non-emulsified elastomer.
[0073] The term "non-emulsified" defines an organopolysiloxane elastomer that does not contain any hydrophilic chains, and in particular, does not contain any polyoxyethylene units (especially polyethylene oxide or polypropylene oxide) or any polyglycerol units.
[0074] Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer particles are delivered in the form of a gel, as defined below, formed from an elastomer organopolysiloxane contained in at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or a silicone oil. In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles can be spherical or non-spherical.
[0075] Spherical non-emulsified elastomers that can be used include, for example, those sold by Dow Corning under the names DC 9040, DC 9041, DC 9509, and DC 9505.
[0076] Also available are those sold by Shin-Etsu under the names KSG-6, KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-18, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43, and KSG-44; Gransil SR5CYC Gel, Gransil SR DMF 10 Gel, and Gransil SR DC556 Gel from Grant Industries' Gransil RPS company; and 1229-02-167, 1229-02-168, and SFE 839 from General Electric.
[0077] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a non-emulsified elastomer as an organopolysiloxane elastomer transported in oil, preferably spherical, and preferably selected from compounds sold by Dow Corning under the names DC 9040, DC 9041, DC 9509, and DC 9505.
[0078] According to one particular embodiment, the elastomer can be used as a mixture with cyclic silicone oil. One example that can be mentioned is a mixture of crosslinked organopolysiloxane / cyclopentasiloxane or crosslinked organopolysiloxane / cyclohexasiloxane, such as Gransil RPS D5 or Gransil RPS D6 from Grant Industries.
[0079] Emulsified organopolysiloxane elastomer
[0080] According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises an emulsified elastomer as an organopolysiloxane elastomer transported in oil.
[0081] The term "emulsified organopolysiloxane elastomer" refers to an organopolysiloxane elastomer containing at least one hydrophilic chain, such as polyoxyalkylene organopolysiloxane elastomers and polyglycerolized silicone elastomers.
[0082] Emulsified organopolysiloxane elastomers can be selected from polyoxyalkylene-modified organopolysiloxane elastomers.
[0083] Polyoxyalkylene-based organopolysiloxane elastomers are crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomers obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon with a polyoxyethylene containing at least two olefinically unsaturated groups.
[0084] Preferably, the polyoxyalkylene-based organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction of (A1) a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to silicon and (B1) a polyoxyalkylene containing at least two olefinically unsaturated groups, particularly in the presence of a platinum catalyst, as described, for example, in patents US5 236 986 and US5 412004.
[0085] In particular, organopolysiloxanes can be obtained by reacting polyoxyethylene (especially polyethylene oxide and / or polypropylene oxide) containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups with methylhydropolysiloxanes containing trimethylsiloxy end groups in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
[0086] The organic group bonded to the silicon atom in compound (A1) can be an alkyl group containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl, or stearyl; a substituted alkyl group, such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; an aryl group, such as phenethyl; and a substituted monovalent hydrocarbon group, such as an epoxy group, a carboxylic acid ester group, or a mercapto group.
[0087] Therefore, compound (A1) can be selected from methylhydropolysiloxanes containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrosiloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrosiloxane cyclic copolymers, and dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrosiloxane-lauryl methylsiloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups.
[0088] Compound (C1) is a catalyst for crosslinking reactions, and in particular chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black, and platinum on a support.
[0089] Advantageously, polyoxyalkylene-based organopolysiloxane elastomers can form divinyl compounds, particularly polyoxyalkylene compounds containing at least two vinyl groups (which react with the Si-H bonds of the polysiloxane).
[0090] Polyoxyalkylene elastomers are particularly described in patents US 5236986, US 5412004, US 5837793 and US5811487, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference.
[0091] The polyoxyalkylene organopolysiloxane elastomers that can be used include those sold by Shin-Etsu under the names KSG-21, KSG-20, KSG-30, KSG-31, KSG-32, KSG-33, KSG-210, KSG-310, KSG-320, KSG-330 and KSG-340, and those sold by Dow Corning under the names DC9010 and DC9011.
[0092] Emulsified organopolysiloxane elastomers can also be selected from polyglycerolized organopolysiloxane elastomers.
[0093] The polyglycerolized organopolysiloxane elastomer according to the present invention is an organopolysiloxane elastomer that can be obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen with a polyglycerolized compound containing an olefinically unsaturated group, especially in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
[0094] Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction of (A2) a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to silicon and (B2) a glycerolized compound containing at least two olefinic unsaturated groups, especially in the presence of a platinum catalyst (C2).
[0095] In particular, organopolysiloxanes can be obtained by reacting a polyglycerol compound containing a dimethylvinylsiloxy end group with a methylhydropolysiloxane containing a trimethylsiloxy end group in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
[0096] Compound (A2) is the basic reactant for forming organopolysiloxane elastomers, and crosslinking is carried out through the addition reaction of compound (A2) and compound (B2) in the presence of catalyst (C2).
[0097] Compound (A2) is particularly an organopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to different silicon atoms in each molecule.
[0098] Compound (A2) can have any molecular structure, especially linear or branched chain structures or cyclic structures.
[0099] Compound (A2) can have a viscosity ranging from 1 to 50,000 centipoise at 25°C, which is particularly convenient for miscibility with compound (B2).
[0100] The organic group bonded to the silicon atom in compound (A2) can be an alkyl group containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl, or stearyl; a substituted alkyl group, such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; an aryl group, such as phenyl, tolyl, or xylyl; a substituted aryl group, such as phenethyl; and a substituted monovalent hydrocarbon group, such as an epoxy group, a carboxylic acid ester group, or a mercapto group.
[0101] Preferably, the organic group is selected from methyl, phenyl, and lauryl.
[0102] Therefore, compound (A2) can be selected from methylhydropolysiloxanes containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrosiloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrosiloxane cyclic copolymers, and dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrosiloxane-lauryl methylsiloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups.
[0103] Compound (B2) can be a polyglycerolized compound corresponding to the following formula (B'):
[0104] C m H 2m-1 -O-[Gly] n -C m H 2m-1 (B')
[0105] Where m is an integer ranging from 2 to 6, n is an integer ranging from 2 to 200, preferably ranging from 2 to 100, preferably ranging from 2 to 50, preferably ranging from 2 to 20, preferably ranging from 2 to 10, and preferably ranging from 2 to 5, and especially n equals 3; Gly represents:
[0106] -CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-O- or -CH2-CH(CH2OH)-O-
[0107] Advantageously, the sum of the number of olefinic groups per molecule in compound (B2) and the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon per molecule in compound (A2) is at least 4.
[0108] Advantageously, the amount of compound (A2) added is such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in compound (A2) and the total amount of all olefinic unsaturated groups in compound (B2) is in the range of 1 / 1 to 20 / 1.
[0109] Compound (C2) is a catalyst for crosslinking reactions, and in particular chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black, and platinum on a support.
[0110] The catalyst (C2) is preferably added in the following amounts (based on net platinum metal): 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (A2) and (B2), and still more preferably 1 to 100 parts by weight.
[0111] Polyglycerolized organopolysiloxane elastomers are delivered in gel form in at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or one silicone oil. In these gels, the polyglycerolized elastomers are typically in the form of non-spherical particles.
[0112] The polyglycerolized organopolysiloxane elastomers that can be used include those sold by Shin-Etsu under the names KSG-710, KSG-810, KSG-820, KSG-830 and KSG-840.
[0113] Preferably, the silicone elastomer transported in the first oil is non-emulsified and preferably lacks hydrophilic chains, and especially lacks polyoxyethylene units and polyglycerol units.
[0114] Advantageously, the organopolysiloxane elastomers considered according to the present invention are selected from spherical non-emulsified organopolysiloxane elastomers, polyglycerolized organopolysiloxane elastomers, and polyoxyalkylene-modified organopolysiloxane elastomers.
[0115] Advantageously, the organopolysiloxane elastomers considered according to the present invention are selected from spherical non-emulsified organopolysiloxane elastomers.
[0116] More specifically, especially in the presence of a platinum catalyst (C), organopolysiloxane elastomers are obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of (A) a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to silicon and (B) a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two olefinic unsaturated groups bonded to silicon.
[0117] Therefore, the composition comprises a combination of an organopolysiloxane elastomer delivered in a non-volatile oil and at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer powder coated with a silicone resin.
[0118] Preferably, the type of organopolysiloxane elastomer transported in the first oil is selected from polydimethylsiloxane / vinyl polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymers, polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymers, and mixtures thereof.
[0119] Advantageously, relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention, the organopolysiloxane elastomer transported in the first oil is present in the composition in the following total solids content: ranging from 2% to 20% by weight, preferably from 4% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 6% to 10% by weight.
[0120] In the composition according to the invention, the organopolysiloxane elastomer conveyed in the first oil and the organopolysiloxane elastomer powder coated with silicone resin are present in a dry weight ratio of the organopolysiloxane elastomer conveyed in the first oil (i.e., the total solid content of the organopolysiloxane elastomer conveyed in the first oil) / the organopolysiloxane elastomer powder coated with silicone resin (i.e., the total content of the organopolysiloxane elastomer coated with silicone resin) as follows: greater than 2, preferably greater than 2.5.
[0121] The organopolysiloxane elastomer conveyed in the first oil and the organopolysiloxane elastomer powder coated with silicone resin may be present in the following dry weight ratio of organopolysiloxane elastomer conveyed in the first oil (i.e., the total solid content of organopolysiloxane elastomer conveyed in the first oil) / organopolysiloxane elastomer powder coated with silicone resin (i.e., the total content of organopolysiloxane elastomer coated with silicone resin): between 2 and 5, preferably between 2.5 and 4.
[0122] Advantageously, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention, the composition comprises an organopolysiloxane elastomer in a total content ranging from 2.5% to 30% by weight (more preferably 5% to 25% by weight, even more preferably 8% to 15% by weight) (i.e., = organopolysiloxane elastomer delivered in the first oil + organopolysiloxane elastomer powder coated with silicone resin).
[0123] The inventors discovered that a combination of organopolysiloxane elastomer delivered in a first oil and organopolysiloxane elastomer powder coated with silicone resin can provide a matte and soft-focus finish on keratin materials.
[0124] filler
[0125] According to a first aspect of the invention, the anhydrous composition comprises at least two fillers including polymethylsilsesquioxane and calcium aluminum borosilicate, and contains more than 15% by weight of filler relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0126] The term "filler" should be understood to mean any colorless inorganic or organic particles of any shape that are insoluble in the medium in which the composition is made, regardless of the temperature at which the composition is made.
[0127] Materials that can be mentioned include talc, mica, silica, kaolin, bentonite, pyrolytic silica particles (optionally treated with hydrophilic or hydrophobic methods), and polyamide. Powder (from Atochem) SP-500 from Toray (Dow Corning), poly-β-alanine powder and polyethylene powder, tetrafluoroethylene polymer Powder, lauroyl lysine, starch, boron nitride; hollow polymer microspheres, such as polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile microspheres (e.g. (Nobel Industrie), acrylic copolymer microspheres (from Dow Corning) ) and silicone resin microbeads (e.g., from Toshiba) ); precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, basic magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (from Maprecos Silica) Glass or ceramic microcapsules (calcium aluminum borosilicate); and metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms (preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms), such as zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate, or magnesium myristate.
[0128] They can also be particles containing copolymers, said copolymers comprising trimethylolpropionate. In particular, it can be a hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylolpropionate copolymer.
[0129] These types of particles are especially commercially available, such as those from Toshiki under the name Plastic Powder D- Or Plastic Powder D- Available commercially.
[0130] Preferably, in addition to polymethylsilsesquioxane and calcium aluminum borosilicate, the composition according to the invention also contains at least one other filler selected from talc, mica, silica, polyamide powder, copolymers containing trimethylolpropene (preferably hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylolpropene copolymer), and mixtures thereof.
[0131] More preferably, the composition comprises polymethylsilsesquioxane and calcium aluminum borosilicate, and at least one other filler selected from the following: talc, mica, silica, polyamide powder, hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylolpropionic acid copolymer, and mixtures thereof.
[0132] In some preferred embodiments, the composition comprises 0.1 wt% to 5 wt% (preferably 1 wt% to 4 wt%) of polymethylsilsesquioxane and 0.1 wt% to 5 wt% (preferably 0.1 wt% to 0.5 wt%) of calcium aluminum borosilicate, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0133] The inventors have discovered that polymethylsilsesquioxane and calcium aluminum borosilicate can enhance the benefits of matte and soft focus, while also improving the slip properties of the compositions according to the invention.
[0134] Advantageously, relative to the total weight of the composition of the present invention, the presence of at least two fillers, including polymethylsilsesquioxane and calcium aluminum borosilicate, in the composition ranges from 15% to 30% by weight, preferably from 15% to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 15% to 20% by weight.
[0135] Volatile hydrocarbon oils
[0136] According to a first aspect of the invention, the anhydrous composition comprises at least one second oil, which is a volatile hydrocarbon oil.
[0137] Regarding "oil", it differs from the paste-like compounds or waxes described in this invention in that oil is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
[0138] The term "hydrocarbon oil" refers to an oil that is essentially composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, or even solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and contains no silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine, and / or amide groups.
[0139] The term "volatile oil" refers to oil that evaporates within one hour of contact with skin at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oils are volatile cosmetic oils that are liquid at room temperature. More specifically, volatile oils have a concentration between 0.01 mg / cm³. 2 / min and 200mg / cm 2 Evaporation rate between / min (including upper and lower limits).
[0140] To measure this evaporation rate, 15g of the oil or oil mixture to be tested was placed in a crystallizing dish with a diameter of 7cm. This dish was then placed at a temperature of 25°C and a humidity of 50% for approximately 0.3m. 3 The liquid was allowed to evaporate freely without stirring, while ventilation was provided by a fan (Papst-Motoren, reference 8550N, rotating at 2700 rpm), positioned vertically above the crystallizer containing the oil or mixture, with its blades facing the crystallizer and 20 cm from the bottom. The mass of oil retained in the crystallizer was measured at regular (time) intervals. The mass was expressed per unit area (cm²). 2 The evaporation rate is expressed as the number of milligrams of oil evaporated per unit time (minute).
[0141] The volatile hydrocarbon oils suitable for use in this invention can be selected from hydrocarbon oils having 7 to 16 carbon atoms. The volatile hydrocarbon oils can be selected from branched alkanes and linear alkanes.
[0142] Volatile hydrocarbon oils with 7-16 carbon atoms, particularly those with branched C8-C atoms, may be mentioned. 16 Alkanes, such as C8-C 16 Isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and oils sold under trade names such as Isopar or Permethyl; branched C8-C 16 Esters, such as isohexyl neopentanoate; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the volatile hydrocarbon oil having 7 to 16 carbon atoms is selected from isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and mixtures thereof, especially isododecane.
[0143] As a volatile hydrocarbon oil that can be used for the purposes of this invention, linear alkanes (preferably of plant origin) may be mentioned, which contain 7 to 15 carbon atoms, especially 9 to 14 carbon atoms, and more particularly 11 to 13 carbon atoms.
[0144] Examples of linear alkanes suitable for application in this invention include n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tetane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), and n-pentadecanane (C15), and mixtures thereof, and especially mixtures of n-undecane (C111) and n-tetane (C13) described by Cognis in Example 1 of patent application WO 2008 / 155059. Also mentioned are n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the reference names Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, respectively, and mixtures thereof.
[0145] Advantageously, the second oil (i.e., volatile hydrocarbon oil) is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 10% to 40% by weight, preferably from 10% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention.
[0146] Preferably, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one of (i) a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, (ii) a colorant, and (iii) a mixture thereof.
[0147] Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils
[0148] Optionally, the anhydrous composition comprises a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil.
[0149] The term "non-volatile oil" refers to oil that remains on the skin or keratin fibers at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. More precisely, non-volatile oils have a concentration of strictly less than 0.01 mg / cm³. 2 Evaporation rate of / min.
[0150] The non-volatile hydrocarbon oils suitable for use in this invention can be particularly selected from:
[0151] - Hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as triglycerides composed of fatty acid esters of glycerol, whose fatty acids can have a range of C4 to C6. 28 The chain length of these fatty acids may vary, and they may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils are particularly wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, beauty-leafoil oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea butter, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia nut oil, jojoba oil, palm oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin seed oil, marrow oil, rapeseed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passion fruit oil, and musk rose oil; or, caprylic / capric triglycerides, such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or by Sasol under the name Miglyol. and Those that were sold;
[0152] - Synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms;
[0153] - Linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffin, liquid petrolatum, naphthalene oil; polybutene, such as Indopol H-100 (molar mass or W = 965 g / mol), Indopol H-300 (MW = 1340 g / mol), and Indopol H-1500 (MW = 2160 g / mol) sold or manufactured by Amoco; polyisobutylene; hydrogenated polyisobutylene, such as that sold or manufactured by Amoco. Or Panalane H-300E (MW = 1340 g / mol), Viseal 20000 (MW = 6000 g / mol) sold or manufactured by Synteal, and Rewopal PIB1000 (MW = 1000 g / mol) sold or manufactured by Witco; decene / butene copolymers; polybutene / polyisobutylene copolymers, especially Indopol L-14; polydecene and hydrogenated polydecene, such as Puresyn 10 (MW = 723 g / mol) and Puresyn 150 (MW = 9200 g / mol) sold or manufactured by Mobil Chemicals; and mixtures thereof;
[0154] - Synthetic esters and / or ethers, such as oils of the formula R1COOR2 and / or R1OR2, wherein R1 represents a straight-chain fatty acid residue or a branched-chain fatty acid residue containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, especially a branched hydrocarbon chain, provided that the total number of carbons in R1+R2 is ≥10, such as purcellin oil (cetearyl caprylate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, C6 benzoate. 12 -C 15 Alkyl esters, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyl decyl laurate, 2-octyl decyl palmitate, 2-octyl dodecyl myristate or 2-octyl dodecyl lactate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate, isostearate; octanoates of alcohols or polyols, decanoates of alcohols or polyols, or ricinoleic acid esters of alcohols or polyols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearate lactate and diisostearate malate; lanolinates, oleates, laurates or stearates; glyceryl triisostearate or diglyceryl triisostearate; and pentaerythritol esters;
[0155] - A liquid at room temperature containing a fatty alcohol, such as cetyl alcohol, octyldodecyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenic acid alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol or 2-undecylpentadecyl alcohol.
[0156] - Fatty acids, such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, benzolic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and isostearic acid; and
[0157] - Its mixture.
[0158] Preferably, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is selected from isostearate isostearate, diisostearate malate, hydrogenated polyisobutylene, and mixtures thereof.
[0159] Advantageously, if present, the amount of non-volatile hydrocarbon oil in the composition ranges from 10% to 40% by weight, preferably from 10% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention.
[0160] Colorant
[0161] The solid anhydrous composition according to the invention may optionally contain at least one colorant. Preferably, the amount of colorant is less than 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0162] For the purposes of this invention, the term "colorant" refers to a compound that, when formulated in sufficient quantities in a suitable cosmetic medium, is capable of producing a colored optical effect.
[0163] In the context of this invention, the colorant may be selected from water-soluble or water-insoluble, fat-soluble or fat-insoluble, organic or inorganic colorants; and materials having optical effects; and mixtures thereof.
[0164] Water-soluble dyes
[0165] The water-soluble colorants used according to the present invention are more particularly water-soluble dyes.
[0166] For the purposes of this invention, the term "water-soluble dye" refers to any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound that is soluble in an aqueous phase or a water-miscible solvent and capable of imparting color. In particular, the term "water-soluble" is intended to characterize the ability of a compound, measured at 25°C, to dissolve in water to a concentration of at least 0.1 g / L (producing a macroscopically isotropic, transparent, colored, or colorless solution). Such solubility is particularly greater than or equal to 1 g / L.
[0167] As suitable water-soluble dyes for use in this invention, synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes may be mentioned in particular, such as FD&C Red 4 (CI: 14700), DC Red 6 (Lissolbrite Red Na; CI: 15850), DC Red 22 (CI: 45380), DC Red 28 (CI: 45410 Na salt), DC Red 30 (CI: 73360), DC Red 33 (CI: 17200), DC Orange 4 (CI: 15510), FDC Yellow 5 (CI: 19140), FDC Yellow 6 (CI: 15985), DC Yellow 8 (CI: 45350 Na salt), FDC Green 3 (CI: 42053), DC Green 5 (CI: 61570), and FDC Blue 1 (CI: 42090).
[0168] As a non-limiting example of sources of water-soluble colorants that can be used in the context of this invention, those of natural origin can be mentioned in particular, such as extracts of the following: cochineal carmine, beetroot, grape, carrot, tomato, annatto, red pepper, henna, caramel, and curcumin.
[0169] Therefore, water-soluble colorants suitable for use in this invention include, in particular, carmine, betaine, anthocyanins, anthocyanin glycosides, lycopene, β-carotene, red cinnamon, norocin, capsanthin, capsicum rubigin, ranunculus, lutein, cryptoxanthin, rubigin, violetin, riboflavin, taxone, cane linoleic acid, and chlorophyll, and mixtures thereof.
[0170] They can also be disodium salts of copper sulfate, ferric sulfate, water-soluble sulfonyl polyester, rhodamine, betaine, methylene blue, tartrazine, and fuchsin.
[0171] Some of these water-soluble colorants are specifically approved for food use. Representatives of these dyes that may be mentioned more specifically include dyes of the carotenoid family mentioned under food codes E120, E162, E163, E160a-g, E150a, E101, E100, E140 and E141.
[0172] pigment
[0173] The term “pigment” should be understood to mean an inorganic (mineral) or organic particle that is insoluble in a liquid organic phase and is intended to color and / or render opaque white or colored particles that are used to color the composition and / or the deposits produced by the composition.
[0174] Pigments can be selected from inorganic pigments, organic pigments, and composite pigments (i.e., pigments based on inorganic and / or organic materials).
[0175] Pigments can be selected from monochrome pigments, lakes, and pigments with optical effects, such as angle-dependent color pigments and mother-of-pearl.
[0176] Inorganic pigments can be selected from metal oxide pigments, such as chromium oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow, red), titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide and zirconium oxide, hydrated chromium, manganese violet, Prussian blue, ultramarine, iron blue, synthetic fluorophlogopite, metal powders (e.g., aluminum powder and copper powder), and mixtures thereof.
[0177] Organic lakes are organic pigments formed by dyes adhering to a substrate.
[0178] Lakes (also known as organic pigments) can be selected from the following materials and mixtures thereof:
[0179] - Cochineal red;
[0180] - Organic pigments of azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, indigo dyes, xanthan dyes, pyrene dyes, quinoline dyes, triphenylmethane dyes, or fluorane dyes.
[0181] Among the organic pigments that can be particularly mentioned are those known by the following names: D&C Blue No. 4, D&C Brown No. 1, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 6, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No. 34, D&C Red No. 36, D&C Purple No. 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, D&C Yellow No. 11, FD&C Blue No. 1, FD&C Green No. 3, FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C Yellow No. 5, FD&C Yellow No. 6;
[0182] - Organic lakes can be insoluble sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminum, zirconium, strontium, or titanium salts of acid dyes, such as azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, indigo dyes, xaton dyes, pyrene dyes, quinoline dyes, triphenylmethane dyes, or fluorane dyes, which may contain at least one carboxylic acid group or sulfonic acid group.
[0183] Organic lakes can also be supported on organic carriers (such as rosin or aluminum benzoate).
[0184] Among organic lakes, those known by the following names are particularly noteworthy: D&C Red 2 aluminum lake, D&C Red 3 aluminum lake, D&C Red 4 aluminum lake, D&C Red 6 aluminum lake, D&C Red 6 barium lake, D&C Red 6 barium / strontium lake, D&C Red 6 strontium lake, D&C Red 6 potassium lake, D&C Red 7 aluminum lake, D&C Red 7 barium lake, D&C Red 7 calcium lake, D&C Red 7 calcium / strontium lake. D&C Red 7 Zirconium Lake, D&C Red 8 Sodium Lake, D&C Red 9 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red 9 Barium Lake, D&C Red 9 Barium / Strontium Lake, D&C Red 9 Zirconium Lake, D&C Red 10 Sodium Lake, D&C Red 19 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red 19 Barium Lake, D&C Red 19 Zirconium Lake, D&C Red 21 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red 21 Zirconium Lake, D&C Red 22 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red 27 Aluminum Lake, D D&C Red 27 Aluminum / Titanium / Zirconium Lake, D&C Red 27 Barium Lake, D&C Red 27 Calcium Lake, D&C Red 27 Zirconium Lake, D&C Red 28 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red 30 Lake, D&C Red 31 Calcium Lake, D&C Red 33 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red 34 Calcium Lake, D&C Red 36 Lake, D&C Red 40 Aluminum Lake, D&C Blue 1 Aluminum Lake, D&C Green 3 Aluminum Lake, D&C Orange 4 Aluminum Lake D&C Orange No. 5 aluminum lake, D&C Orange No. 5 zirconium lake, D&C Orange No. 10 aluminum lake, D&C Orange No. 17 barium lake, D&C Yellow No. 5 aluminum lake, D&C Yellow No. 5 zirconium lake, D&C Yellow No. 6 aluminum lake, D&C Yellow No. 7 zirconium lake, D&C Yellow No. 10 aluminum lake, FD&C Blue No. 1 aluminum lake, FD&C Red No. 4 aluminum lake, FD&C Red No. 40 aluminum lake, FD&C Yellow No. 5 aluminum lake and FD&C Yellow No. 6 aluminum lake.
[0185] Fat-soluble dyes such as Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, and Quinoline Yellow can also be mentioned.
[0186] The chemical substances corresponding to each of the organic colorants cited above are mentioned on pages 371 to 386 and 524 to 528 of the publication "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook" (1997 edition) published by "The Cosmetic, Toiletries and Fragrance Association" (the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference).
[0187] Pigments can also be hydrophobically treated.
[0188] The hydrophobic treatment agent may be selected from silicones, such as polymethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, alkoxysilane and perfluoroalkylsilane; fatty acids, such as stearic acid; metal soaps, such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamic acid, perfluoroalkyl phosphate; perfluoroalkylsilane, perfluoroalkylsilazane, polyhexafluoropropylene oxide, polyorganosiloxane containing perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups, and amino acids; N-acyl amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearate titanate; and mixtures thereof.
[0189] N-acyl amino acids can contain an acyl group with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as 2-ethylhexanoyl, hexanoyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, or cocoyl. The salts of these compounds can be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, or potassium salts. The amino acid can be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, or alanine.
[0190] The term "alkyl" as used in the compounds cited above specifically refers to alkyl groups containing 1 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably 5 to 16 carbon atoms.
[0191] Hydrophobic pigments are particularly described in patent application EP-A-1086683.
[0192] Mother-of-pearl
[0193] For the purposes of this patent application, the term “mother-of-pearl” refers to colored particles of any shape, which may or may not be iridescent, particularly produced by certain mollusks in their shells, or synthesized, and which have a color effect via optical interference.
[0194] Examples of mother-of-pearl that may be mentioned include pearlescent pigments, such as tantalum mica coated with iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, tantalum mica coated with chromium oxide, tantalum mica coated with organic dyes (especially organic dyes of the types mentioned above), and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
[0195] They can also be mica particles with at least two consecutive layers of metal oxides and / or organic colorants superimposed on their surface.
[0196] Mother-of-pearl can also be in colors or hues of yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold, and / or copper.
[0197] Examples of mother-of-pearl that can be introduced into the first composition as an interference pigment include, in particular, the golden mother-of-pearl sold by BASF under the names Brilliant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); the bronze mother-of-pearl sold by Merck under the names Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona), and the bronze mother-of-pearl sold by BASF under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); the orange mother-of-pearl sold by BASF under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne), and the orange mother-of-pearl sold by Merck under the names Passion Orange (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449) (Microna); and the mother-of-pearl sold by Engelhard under the names Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown Mother-of-pearl with a brownish hue sold by CL4509 (Chroma-lite); especially mother-of-pearl with a coppery hue sold by BASF under the name Copper 340A (Timica); especially mother-of-pearl with a reddish hue sold by Merck under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); especially mother-of-pearl with a yellowish hue sold by BASF under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); especially red mother-of-pearl with a golden hue sold by BASF under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); especially pink mother-of-pearl sold by BASF under the name Tan opal G005 (Gemtone); especially black mother-of-pearl with a golden hue sold by BASF under the name Nuantique bronze 240AB (Timica); especially mother-of-pearl with a golden hue sold by Merck under the name Matte Blue mother-of-pearl sold by blue(17433)(Microna); especially white mother-of-pearl with a silver tint sold by Merck under the name XironaSilver; and especially gold-green-pink-orange mother-of-pearl sold by Merck under the name Indian summer(Xirona); and mixtures thereof.
[0198] According to a preferred embodiment, the colorant used in this invention is selected from metal oxide pigments, organic lakes, synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.
[0199] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the colorant used in this invention is selected from Yellow 6 lake, Blue 1 lake, Red 28 lake, Red 21, Red 7, titanium dioxide, iron oxide, synthetic fluorophlogopite, and mixtures thereof.
[0200] If present, the amount of colorant present relative to the total weight of the composition ranges from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 10% by weight.
[0201] Other ingredients
[0202] The solid anhydrous composition according to the invention may further comprise other ingredients commonly used in the field under consideration.
[0203] For example, the solid anhydrous composition according to the invention may further comprise other components selected from: thickeners, antioxidants (e.g., tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, pentaerythritol tetra(di-tert-butylhydroxyhydrocinnamate) ester), film-forming agents (e.g., trimethylsiloxysilicate), preservatives, antibacterial agents (e.g., caprylyl glycol, ethylhexylglycerin), fragrances, neutralizers, disinfectants; additional cosmetic actives, such as vitamins, collagen protectants; and mixtures thereof.
[0204] A routine practice for those skilled in the art is to adjust the nature and amount of other components present in the composition according to the invention so that the advantageous properties of the composition used according to the invention are not, or substantially not, adversely affected by the contemplated addition.
[0205] According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides an anhydrous composition comprising, by weight of the composition:
[0206] a) 2% to 5% by weight of vinyl polydimethylsiloxane / polymethylsiloxane sesquisiloxane crosslinked polymer;
[0207] b) 6% to 10% by weight of an organopolysiloxane elastomer transported in the first oil, selected from polydimethylsiloxane / vinyl polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymers, polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymers, and mixtures thereof;
[0208] c) 15% to 20% by weight of at least two fillers comprising polymethylsilsesquioxane and calcium aluminum borosilicate, and other fillers selected from the following: talc, mica, silica, polyamide powder, hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylolpropionic acid copolymer, and mixtures thereof;
[0209] d) 10% to 25% by weight of volatile hydrocarbon oils selected from dodecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and mixtures thereof;
[0210] e) 10% to 25% by weight of non-volatile hydrocarbon oils selected from isostearate, diisostearate malate, hydrogenated polyisobutylene, and mixtures thereof; and
[0211] f) 2% to 10% by weight of a colorant selected from Yellow 6 lake, Blue 1 lake, Red 28 lake, Red 21, Red 7, titanium dioxide, iron oxides, synthetic fluorophlogopite, and mixtures thereof.
[0212] The composition does not contain waxes or paste-like compounds.
[0213] Galen form
[0214] The compositions of this invention are suitable for use as skin care and / or cosmetic products. More particularly, the compositions of this invention are liquid lip balms.
[0215] The compositions according to the invention can be prepared in a conventional manner.
[0216] According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic method for using a keratin material for care / makeup, comprising applying a solid anhydrous composition as described above to the keratin material.
[0217] In particular, keratin is a material used in the lips.
[0218] The following embodiments are given as non-limiting examples of the present invention. Example
[0219] The main raw materials used, their trade names, and suppliers are listed in Table 1.
[0220] Table 1
[0221]
[0222] Invention Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-2
[0223] Liquid lip compositions of Invention Example (IE.) 1 and Comparative Examples (CE.) 1-2 were prepared using the ingredients listed in Table 2.
[0224] Table 2
[0225]
[0226] *Based on the total weight of polydimethylsiloxane (and) polydimethylsiloxane / vinyl polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked polymer, the content of polydimethylsiloxane / vinyl polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked polymer is 24% by weight.
[0227] **Based on the total weight of polydimethylsiloxane (and) polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked polymer, the content of polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked polymer is 15% by weight.
[0228] Preparation procedure:
[0229] Taking composition 1 as an example, the detailed procedure for preparing the above composition is as follows:
[0230] 1) In the first stage, the pigment is ground in a three-roll mill in a portion of the oil phase (hydrogenated polyisobutylene, diisostearyl malate, isostearyl isostearyl isostearyl isostearyl and pentaerythritol tetra(di-tert-butylhydroxyhydrogenated cinnamic acid) ester).
[0231] 2) Then mix the remaining portion of the oil-soluble component with the remaining portion of the oil phase and the ground pigment material until a homogeneous mixture is obtained;
[0232] 3) Add the organopolysiloxane elastomer to the mixture mentioned above while stirring, then incorporate the ground pigment material into the mixture and continue homogenizing until the mixture is homogeneous;
[0233] 4) Add filler, film-forming agent, co-preservative, antioxidant, active ingredient, and fragrance while stirring until homogeneous;
[0234] 5) Finally, pour the obtained composition into a small container and then leave it at ambient temperature for 24 hours.
[0235] Evaluate:
[0236] The spreadability, gloss, and weight of the prepared composition were evaluated.
[0237] Spreadability
[0238] Spreadability is used to evaluate whether a lip composition can be easily and smoothly glided on the lips during application.
[0239] Spreadability was evaluated by five experts as follows: The lip composition was slowly applied to both sides of the upper lip twice using the same force, while carefully feeling the force between the lip composition and the lips during the second application. The less friction, the better the spreadability.
[0240] gloss and thickness
[0241] Glossiness is used to assess the degree or brightness of light reflection on the lips under standard light.
[0242] Thickness is used to assess the feeling of weight on the lips caused by a lip product. It's a feeling of heaviness on the lips and a lack of freedom to breathe.
[0243] Five experts evaluated the gloss and thickness of the lipstick by applying it twice to both sides of the upper lip using the same pressure. After application, the lips were left untouched for 3 minutes, and the degree or brightness of light reflection on the center of the upper lip was examined under standard light, along with the thickness. The lower the light reflection or brightness, the lower the gloss and the better the matte finish. Less thickness was also better.
[0244] Finally, experts will provide evaluations or scores on spreadability, gloss, and thickness based on the following criteria, and the average value will be taken:
[0245] 5: Excellent;
[0246] 4: Basically good;
[0247] 3: Acceptable;
[0248] 2: Slightly worse and unacceptable;
[0249] 1: Poor, unacceptable.
[0250] The evaluation results of each lip composition are summarized in Table 3.
[0251] Table 3
[0252] nature IE.1 CE.1 CE.3 Spreadability 5 4 4 Thickness 4 2 2 gloss 4 1 1
[0253] As can be seen, the lip composition of the invention has good spreadability and can leave a matte and lightweight deposit on keratin materials.
Claims
1. An anhydrous composition for use as a care and / or cosmetic keratin material, which is a liquid and comprises, by weight of said composition: a) 1% to 8% by weight of vinyl polydimethylsiloxane / polymethylsiloxane sesquisiloxane crosslinked polymer; b) 4% to 15% by weight of polydimethylsiloxane / vinyl polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymers, polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymers, and mixtures thereof; c) 15% to 30% by weight of at least two fillers, comprising 0.1% to 5% by weight of polymethylsilsesquioxane and 0.1% to 5% by weight of calcium aluminum borosilicate; and d) 10% to 40% by weight of at least one second oil, which is a volatile hydrocarbon oil having 7 to 16 carbon atoms. The composition described herein does not contain wax.
2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein it does not contain a paste-like compound.
3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the composition comprises 2% to 5% by weight of a vinyl polydimethylsiloxane / polymethylsiloxane sesquioxane crosslinked polymer relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein, relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention, the composition comprises 6% to 10% by weight of a polydimethylsiloxane / vinyl polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked polymer, a polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked polymer, and mixtures thereof.
5. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the polydimethylsiloxane / vinyl polydimethylsiloxane crosslinker, the polydimethylsiloxane crosslinker, and mixtures thereof and the vinyl polydimethylsiloxane / polymethylsiloxane sesquioxane crosslinker are present in a weight ratio between 2 and 5.
6. The composition according to claim 5, wherein the polydimethylsiloxane / vinyl polydimethylsiloxane crosslinker, the polydimethylsiloxane crosslinker, and mixtures thereof and the vinyl polydimethylsiloxane / polymethylsiloxane sesquioxane crosslinker are present in a weight ratio between 2.5 and 4.
7. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein, relative to the total weight of the composition, the composition comprises 1% to 4% by weight of polymethylsilsesquioxane and 0.1% to 0.5% by weight of calcium aluminum borosilicate.
8. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the composition further comprises at least one other filler selected from: talc, mica, silica, polyamide powder, copolymers containing trimethylolpropionic acid lactone, and mixtures thereof.
9. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein, relative to the total weight of the composition, the composition comprises 15% to 25% by weight of the at least two fillers comprising polymethylsilsesquioxane and calcium aluminum borosilicate.
10. The composition of claim 9, wherein, relative to the total weight of the composition, the composition comprises 15% to 20% by weight of the at least two fillers comprising polymethylsilsesquioxane and calcium aluminum borosilicate.
11. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the composition comprises 10% to 25% by weight of the second oil relative to the total weight of the composition.
12. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, further comprising (i) a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil; (ii) a hydrophilic moisturizer; (iii) a colorant; and (iv) at least one of a mixture thereof.
13. The composition of claim 1, wherein, relative to the total weight of the composition, it comprises: a) 2% to 5% by weight of vinyl polydimethylsiloxane / polymethylsiloxane sesquisiloxane crosslinked polymer; b) 6% to 10% by weight of polydimethylsiloxane / vinyl polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymers, polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymers, and mixtures thereof; c) 15% to 20% by weight of at least two fillers comprising polymethylsilsesquioxane and calcium aluminum borosilicate, and other fillers selected from talc, mica, silica, polyamide powder, hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylolpropionic acid copolymer, and mixtures thereof. d) 10% to 25% by weight of volatile hydrocarbon oils selected from dodecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and mixtures thereof; e) 10% to 25% by weight of non-volatile hydrocarbon oils selected from isostearate, diisostearate malate, hydrogenated polyisobutylene, and mixtures thereof; and f) 2% to 10% by weight of a colorant selected from Yellow 6 lake, Blue 1 lake, Red 28 lake, Red 21, Red 7, titanium dioxide, iron oxides, synthetic fluorophlogopite, and mixtures thereof. The composition described herein does not contain waxes or paste-like compounds.
14. A cosmetic method for caring for and / or applying a keratin material, comprising applying the composition defined in any one of claims 1-13 to the keratin material.
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