Process for the preparation of renewable cashmere single-end multi-filament yarn

Abstract

The application discloses a preparation method of renewable cashmere single-strand multi-branch particle yarn and belongs to the technical field of textiles, and the main production process is as follows: wooling, carding, spinning and bobbinning. The application improves the production process, and under the condition that the length dispersion coefficient of common cashmere fibers and renewable cashmere fibers is relatively large, the blending method, the carding process and the spinning process are improved, the blended yarn is realized as single-strand 4 branches in the later stage, the physical indexes of the blended yarn such as strength and elongation can all meet the weaving requirements, and the spinnability must meet the mass production requirements. The application enriches the application of renewable cashmere fibers and realizes sustainable development.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to the field of textile technology, and more particularly to the weaving of a renewable cashmere blended yarn. Background Technology

[0002] Cashmere fiber is a very precious and scarce raw material, with a very limited annual production. Cashmere is highly valued not only because of its scarcity (accounting for only 0.2% of the world's total animal fiber production), but more importantly because of its superior quality and properties. It is traded by the gram and is considered a "fiber gem" and "fiber queen." Research shows that cashmere products are becoming increasingly common in China, entering ordinary households. However, cashmere products cannot be stored indefinitely; their lifespan is short. What should be done with these cashmere products after their lifespan ends? Simply disposing of them as waste is not only environmentally unfriendly but also a huge waste of resources.

[0003] Research on the reprocessing and use of cashmere products (most of which are knitted, with a relatively gentle weaving process and easy reverse processing) has revealed that, by disassembling and re-opening and combing ordinary cashmere sweaters, the cashmere fibers can still maintain a length of about 25mm. This length is perfectly acceptable for use in some coarse yarns, which can not only ensure the product performance requirements of the yarn, but also realize the secondary use of precious raw materials and greatly reduce costs.

[0004] The wool textile industry has historically focused on conventional 10-40 count yarns, with single yarns using Z-count right-hand twist and plied yarns using S-count left-hand twist. Overall, the variety of yarns has been limited, with little variation. In recent years, new product breakthroughs have largely focused on new materials, fibers, and functional fibers, but these products have received lukewarm responses and lack sustained popularity. However, consumer trend research indicates that with the further improvement of economic levels in recent years, people's daily consumption levels and habits have changed significantly. Interests related to nostalgia and a return to simplicity have rekindled. In the textile sector, the combination of coarse-count yarns, hand-knitted fabrics, handicrafts, and currently popular new elements has become a hot trend. Recycled cashmere, after prolonged use, exhibits a loosened texture, making it ideal for coarse-count yarns. Summary of the Invention

[0005] This invention addresses the shortcomings of existing technologies by providing a method for preparing a single-ply, multi-count particle yarn of renewable cashmere. By improving the production process, and addressing the significant length dispersion coefficient between ordinary cashmere fibers and renewable cashmere fibers, this application achieves a single-ply, four-count yarn in the later stages of blending through improvements in mixing methods, combing processes, and spinning processes. This ensures that the physical properties of the blended yarn, such as strength and elongation, meet weaving requirements, and that its spinnability meets the demands of large-scale production. This enriches the applications of renewable cashmere fibers and truly achieves sustainable development.

[0006] To solve the above-mentioned technical problems, the present invention provides a method for preparing a single-strand multi-count particle yarn of renewable cashmere, further comprising the following steps: Step A: Selecting cashmere fibers with a fineness of 16-18 micrometers and a length of 28-30 millimeters, and renewable cashmere fibers with a fineness of 15-17 micrometers and a length of 20-25 millimeters, comprising, by weight, 50-60 parts cashmere fiber and 40-50 parts renewable cashmere fiber; Step B: Performing blending, during which the cashmere fibers and renewable cashmere fibers are opened separately once, and then the cashmere fibers and renewable cashmere fibers are mixed and opened together, with oil and water added during the opening process. After the opening is completed, the mixed fibers are packaged and left to stand for at least 24 hours; Step C: Spraying a fiber strength enhancer onto the mixed fibers four hours to two hours before combing, and then blowing the cashmere particles apart with an air gun. On the blended fibers, the blended fibers are then mixed and beaten again by an opening machine; Step D: The blend is combed. During combing, the interval between the working roller and the cylinder is: the distance between the working roller and section A cylinder and the distance between the working roller and section B cylinder are matched according to the diameter of the cashmere particles, the distance between the working roller and section C cylinder is 1mm, and the distance between the working roller and section D cylinder is between 0.3mm and 1mm; the speed ratio between the working roller and the cylinder is: the speed ratio between the working roller and section A cylinder is... The working roller and section B cylinder are between 340 / 2.5 and 380 / 2.5, the working roller and section C cylinder are between 380 / 2.5 and 400 / 2.5, and the working roller and chest cylinder are between 180 / 2.5 and 190 / 2.5; Step E: Perform fine yarn treatment, fine yarn travel 100z, during treatment, both rovings are fed together for twisting and drafting, single strand 4 count, yarn count is 1 / 10 Nm, the draft ratio during fine yarn is between 1.20 and 1.25, the single yarn twist is between 250T / M and 300T / M, the twist direction is "Z", and the spindle speed is between 6500 rpm and 7500 rpm; Step F: Perform winding treatment on the mixed yarn, the machine speed is between 500 m / min and 800 m / min, and the fixed length is set to 28600m.

[0007] In the above technical solution, preferably, in step A, by weight, it includes 57 parts cashmere fiber and 40 parts renewable cashmere fiber.

[0008] In the above technical solution, preferably, in step C, 3 parts by weight of cashmere particles are blown in.

[0009] In the above technical solution, preferably, in step B, the oil-water mixture comprises 2.5% FX-906 and crude oil, and 1.2% FX-AS301 antistatic agent by mass percentage.

[0010] In the above technical solution, preferably, in step C, the fiber strength reinforcing agent includes 1.8% FX-VSE reinforcing agent by mass percentage.

[0011] In the above technical solution, preferably, in step A, the cashmere fiber is selected with a length of 29.2 mm and a fineness of 16.5 μm, and the renewable cashmere fiber is selected with a length of 22.5 mm and a fineness of 15.81 μm.

[0012] In the above technical solution, preferably, in step D, the four working rollers after the working roller in section D are spaced 0.3mm apart, and the remaining working rollers in section D are spaced 1mm apart.

[0013] In the above technical solution, preferably, in step F, the untwisting operation is performed first, followed by the hot twisting operation.

[0014] In the above technical solution, preferably, in step C, the diameter of the cashmere particles is greater than 4 mm.

[0015] The cashmere raw material used in this application is a blend of 60% cashmere and 40% renewable cashmere. The blend of cashmere and renewable cashmere fibers results in a large dispersion coefficient in fiber length, making it difficult to select the appropriate carding spacing and subsequent spinning processes. Therefore, this application specifically uses extra-large cashmere particles. If ordinary particles are used, their small size would result in an indistinct particle style after being encapsulated. Based on the characteristics of the raw material, appropriate blending and carding processes are adjusted to ensure that the yarn appearance matches the design intent and that the yarn's physical properties, such as strength and elongation, meet weaving requirements. The key aspects of this application are: thorough mixing of various fibers in the blending process, especially ensuring that cashmere particles are evenly added to the raw material; determining the carding and spinning process, particularly the carding machine spacing and the speed ratio between rollers; and achieving a single-ply 4-count (right-hand Z-twist) yarn in subsequent processes.

[0016] In summary, the main technical challenge of this application is to achieve a uniform distribution of cashmere fibers and cashmere particles of different lengths during the carding process on the carding machine, and to prevent the cashmere particles from falling off due to loose wrapping during the washing and shrinking process of the yarn into fabric. Therefore, the carding interval of the carding machine is specifically adjusted to optimize for the large fiber length dispersion coefficient. Secondly, it is also important to determine the most suitable spinning twist by trying different twists and through the washing and shrinking process. Given the current basic structure of the equipment, it is difficult to directly spin 4-count roving on the carding machine because the width of the belt yarn dividing groove and the belt yarn itself is relatively small. This application is the first to consider feeding two rovings together for twisting and drafting in the spinning process, which can meet the requirement that the finished product is a single strand of 4-count (right-hand Z twist), and only 8-count roving needs to be opened for carding. This operation avoids the problems of low spinnability and strength caused by the large fiber length dispersion coefficient after mixing normal-length cashmere and renewable cashmere, and enhances the overall spinnability of the yarn by using a single strand of multiple counts.

[0017] The main production process of this application is as follows: wool blending – wool combing – spinning – winding. In the wool blending process: each raw material is first opened separately, then mixed together and passed through an opening machine, with the addition of appropriate wool blending oil, water, antistatic agent, and reinforcing agent (because of the presence of particles, particle yarn has many coarse and fine parts in some areas, and the yarn strength may even be very poor in some places due to the large number of fine parts, so about 1% of fiber strength reinforcing agent is added during the spinning process), and then packaged and left to stand for about 24 hours; about 2 hours before going to the wool combing machine, the cashmere particles are blown apart and shaken evenly with an air gun, and then evenly spread together with the blended fibers according to the quantity ratio, and then mixed and beaten again by the opening machine. In the carding process: Due to the significant difference in length between conventional cashmere fibers and renewable cashmere fibers, resulting in a large overall fiber length dispersion coefficient, the carding process must ensure that fiber damage is not excessive while also ensuring that the fibers are fully straightened, evenly distributed, and not prone to shedding. Therefore, the distance and speed ratio between the carding machine's working roller and cylinder, as well as the speed ratio between the blower and cylinder, were determined through multiple on-site adjustments, observations, and pilot sample testing before production. In the spinning process: The spinning frame travel is 100z, and the exit speed is increased to ensure uniform twisting during the exit process; the actual spinning of the carded yarn is 3.2 count roving, with the frame travel draft as small as possible; the roving is fed in two strands. In the winding process: After the roving is unspun, it needs to be wound on an automatic winding machine, mainly adjusting the twisting parameters; for coarse count yarns, the quality of the knots must meet the standards.

[0018] Compared with existing technologies, this application improves the production process. Even with significant length dispersion coefficients between ordinary cashmere fibers and renewable cashmere fibers, improvements in blending methods, combing processes, and spinning processes enable the blended yarn to achieve a single-ply 4-count in the later stages. This ensures that the physical properties of the blended yarn, such as strength and elongation, meet weaving requirements, and that its spinnability meets the demands of large-scale production. This enriches the applications of renewable cashmere fibers and truly achieves sustainable development. Detailed Implementation

[0019] Example 1: A method for preparing a single-strand multi-count particle yarn of renewable cashmere, further comprising the following steps: Step A: Selecting cashmere fibers with a fineness of 16 micrometers and a length of 28 millimeters, and renewable cashmere fibers with a fineness of 15 micrometers and a length of 20 millimeters, comprising, by weight, 50 parts cashmere fiber and 40 parts renewable cashmere fiber. Step B: Performing wool mixing, wherein the cashmere fibers and renewable cashmere fibers are opened separately once during wool mixing, and then the cashmere fibers and renewable cashmere fibers are mixed and opened together, with oil and water added during opening. After opening, the mixed fibers are packaged and left to stand for at least 24 hours; by weight percentage, the oil and water comprises 2.5% FX-906 and wool oil, and 1.2% FX-AS301 antistatic agent. Step C: Four to two hours before combing, spray the blended fibers with a fiber strength enhancer, then use an air gun to blow cashmere particles onto the blended fibers, and then use an opening machine to comb the blended fibers again; by weight, blow in 5 parts cashmere particles, with a cashmere particle diameter greater than 4mm. By weight percentage, the fiber strength enhancer includes 1.8% FX-VSE enhancer.

[0020] Step D: Combing the mixture. During combing, the spacing between the work rollers and the cylinders is as follows: the distance between the work roller and the cylinders in section A and section B is matched to the diameter of the cashmere particles; the distance between the work roller and the cylinders in section C is 1mm; the distance between the work roller and the cylinders in section D is 0.3mm; the spacing between the last four work rollers in section D is 0.3mm, and the spacing between the remaining work rollers in section D is 1mm. The speed ratio between the work rollers and the cylinders is: 340 / 2.5 between the work roller and the cylinders in section A; 380 / 2.5 between the work roller and the cylinders in section B; 380 / 2.5 between the work roller and the cylinders in section C; and 180 / 2.5 between the work roller and the cylinders in section B. Step E: Perform fine spinning treatment. The fine spinning frame is 100 oz. During treatment, both rovings are fed in together for twisting and drafting. The single strand is 4 count, the yarn count is 1 / 10 Nm, the draft ratio during fine spinning is 1.20, the single yarn twist is 250 T / M, the twist direction is "Z", and the spindle speed is 6500 rpm. Step F: Perform winding treatment on the blended yarn. The machine speed is 500 m / min, and the fixed length is set to 28600 m. First, perform untwisting operation, and then perform hot twisting operation.

[0021] Example 2: A method for preparing a single-strand multi-count particle yarn of renewable cashmere, further comprising the following steps: Step A: Selecting cashmere fibers with a fineness of 18 micrometers and a length of 30 millimeters, and renewable cashmere fibers with a fineness of 17 micrometers and a length of 25 millimeters, comprising, by weight, 60 parts cashmere fiber and 50 parts renewable cashmere fiber. Step B: Performing wool mixing, wherein the cashmere fibers and renewable cashmere fibers are opened separately once during wool mixing, and then the cashmere fibers and renewable cashmere fibers are mixed and opened together, with oil and water added during opening. After opening, the mixed fibers are packaged and left to stand for at least 24 hours; by weight percentage, the oil and water comprises 2.5% FX-906 and wool oil, and 1.2% FX-AS301 antistatic agent. Step C: Four to two hours before combing, spray the blended fibers with a fiber strength enhancer, then use an air gun to blow cashmere particles onto the blended fibers, and then use an opening machine to comb the blended fibers again; by weight, 3 parts cashmere particles are blown in, and by weight percentage, the fiber strength enhancer includes 1.8% FX-VSE enhancer. The cashmere particles have a diameter greater than 5mm.

[0022] Step D: Comb the mixture. The spacing between the working roller and the cylinder during combing is as follows: the spacing between the working roller and the cylinder in section A and the working roller and the cylinder in section B are matched according to the diameter of the cashmere particles; the spacing between the working roller and the cylinder in section C is 1mm; the spacing between the working roller and the cylinder in section D is 1mm; the spacing between the remaining working rollers in section D is 1mm.

[0023] The speed ratios between the work roll and the cylinder are: 380 / 2.5 between the work roll and cylinder section A, 400 / 2.5 between the work roll and cylinder section B, 400 / 2.5 between the work roll and cylinder section C, and 190 / 2.5 between the work roll and the chest cylinder. Step E: Perform fine yarn processing. The fine yarn feed rate is 100 rpm. During processing, both rovings are fed together for twisting and drafting. The single strand is 4 count, the yarn count is 1 / 10 Nm, the draft ratio during fine yarn spinning is 1.25, the single yarn twist is 300 T / M, the twist direction is "Z", and the spindle speed is 7500 rpm. Step F: Perform winding processing on the blended yarn. The machine speed is 800 m / min, and the fixed length is set to 28600 m. First, perform untwisting, then perform hot twisting.

[0024] Example 3: A method for preparing a single-strand multi-count particle yarn of renewable cashmere, further comprising the following steps: Step A: Cashmere fibers with a length of 29.2 mm and a fineness of 16.5 μm are selected, and renewable cashmere fibers with a length of 22.5 mm and a fineness of 15.81 μm are selected. By weight, it includes 57 parts cashmere fiber and 40 parts renewable cashmere fiber. Step B: The cashmere and renewable cashmere fibers are opened separately once during the opening process, and then the cashmere and renewable cashmere fibers are mixed and opened together. Oil and water are added during the opening process. After the opening is completed, the mixed fibers are packaged and left to stand for at least 24 hours. By weight percentage, the oil and water includes 2.5% FX-906 and 2.5% wool oil, and 1.2% FX-AS301 antistatic agent. Step C: Four to two hours before combing, spray the blended fibers with a fiber strength enhancer, then use an air gun to blow cashmere particles onto the blended fibers, and then use an opening machine to comb the blended fibers again; by weight, 3 parts cashmere particles are blown in, and by weight percentage, the fiber strength enhancer includes 1.8% FX-VSE enhancer. The cashmere particles have a diameter greater than 5mm.

[0025] Step D: Combing the mixture. During combing, the spacing between the work rollers and the cylinders is as follows: the distance between the work roller and the cylinders in section A and section B is matched to the diameter of the cashmere particles; the distance between the work roller and the cylinders in section C is 1mm; the distance between the work roller and the cylinders in section D is 0.6mm; the spacing between the last four work rollers in section D is 0.3mm; the spacing between the remaining work rollers in section D is 1mm. The speed ratio between the work rollers and the cylinders is: 360 / 2.5 between the work roller and the cylinders in section A; 390 / 2.5 between the work roller and the cylinders in section B; 390 / 2.5 between the work roller and the cylinders in section C; and 185 / 2.5 between the work roller and the cylinders in section B. Step E: Perform fine spinning treatment. The fine spinning frame is 100 oz. During treatment, both rovings are fed in together for twisting and drafting. The single strand is 4 count, the yarn count is 1 / 10 Nm, the draft ratio during fine spinning is 1.23, the single yarn twist is 280 T / M, the twist direction is "Z", and the spindle speed is 7000 rpm. Step F: Perform winding treatment on the blended yarn. The machine speed is between 600 m / min, and the fixed length is set to 28600 m. First, perform untwisting operation, and then perform hot twisting operation.

Claims

1. A method for preparing renewable cashmere single-ply multi-count particle yarn, characterized in that, It also includes the following steps: Step A: Select cashmere fibers with a fineness of 16-18 microns and a length of 28-30 millimeters, and select renewable cashmere fibers with a fineness of 15-17 microns and a length of 20-25 millimeters. By weight, these include 50-60 parts cashmere fiber and 40-50 parts renewable cashmere fiber. Step B: Perform blending. When blending, loosen the cashmere fibers and renewable cashmere fibers separately once, then mix and loosen the cashmere fibers and renewable cashmere fibers together. Add oil and water during the loosening process. After the loosening is completed, pack the mixed fibers and let them sit for at least 24 hours. Step C: Four to two hours before combing, spray the blended fibers with a fiber strength enhancer, then use an air gun to blow cashmere particles onto the blended fibers, and then use an opening machine to comb the blended fibers again. Step D: Combing the mixture. During combing, the spacing between the working roller and the cylinder is as follows: the spacing between the working roller and the cylinder section A and the working roller and the cylinder section B are matched according to the diameter of the cashmere particles; the spacing between the working roller and the cylinder section C is 1mm; and the spacing between the working roller and the cylinder section D is between 0.3mm and 1mm. The speed ratio between the work roll and the cylinder is as follows: between the work roll and the A section cylinder, it is between 340 / 2.5 and 380 / 2.5; between the work roll and the B section cylinder, it is between 380 / 2.5 and 400 / 2.5; between the work roll and the C section cylinder, it is between 380 / 2.5 and 400 / 2.5; and between the work roll and the chest cylinder, it is between 180 / 2.5 and 190 / 2.

5. Step E: Perform fine yarn treatment. During the treatment, two rovings are fed together and twisted and drafted. The single strand is 4 count, the yarn count is 1 / 10 Nm, the draft ratio is between 1.20 and 1.25, the single yarn twist is between 250T / M and 300T / M, the twist direction is "Z", and the spindle speed is between 6500 rpm and 7500 rpm. Step F: Wind the blended yarn at a speed between 500 m / min and 800 m / min, with a fixed length of 28600 m.

2. The method for preparing renewable cashmere single-ply multi-count particle yarn according to claim 1, characterized in that, In step A, by weight, it includes 57 parts cashmere fiber and 40 parts renewable cashmere fiber.

3. The method for preparing renewable cashmere single-strand multi-count particle yarn according to claim 2, characterized in that, In step C, 3 parts by weight of cashmere particles are blown in.

4. The method for preparing renewable cashmere single-ply multi-count particle yarn according to claim 1, characterized in that, in In step B, the oil-water mixture comprises, by mass percentage, 2.5% FX-906 and crude oil, and 1.2% FX-AS301 antistatic agent.

5. The method for preparing renewable cashmere single-strand multi-count particle yarn according to claim 1, characterized in that, In step C, the fiber strength enhancer comprises 1.8% FX-VSE enhancer by weight percentage.

6. The method for preparing renewable cashmere single-ply multi-count particle yarn according to claim 1, characterized in that, in In step A, cashmere fibers with a length of 29.2 mm and a fineness of 16.5 μm are selected, and renewable cashmere fibers with a length of 22.5 mm and a fineness of 15.81 μm are selected.

7. The method for preparing renewable cashmere single-ply multi-count particle yarn according to claim 1, characterized in that, In step D, the four working rolls after the working roll in section D are spaced 0.3 mm apart, and the remaining working rolls in section D are spaced 1 mm apart.

8. The method for preparing renewable cashmere single-ply multi-count particle yarn according to claim 1, characterized in that, In step F, the untwisting operation is performed first, followed by the hot twisting operation.

9. The method for preparing renewable cashmere single-ply multi-count particle yarn according to claim 1, characterized in that, In step C, the cashmere particles have a diameter greater than 4 mm.