A photoprotective whitening composition for sensitive skin and its application

Abstract

The invention discloses a photoprotective whitening composition for sensitive skin and its application, belonging to the technical field of cosmetics; the photoprotective whitening composition for sensitive skin provided by the invention comprises the following components in parts by mass: 0.1-5 parts of oxidized resveratrol, 0.1-5 parts of phytol, 0.1-3 parts of radix scutellariae root extract, 0.1-1 parts of roxburghii fruit extract, and 0.1-1 parts of tamanu extract. The photoprotective whitening composition for sensitive skin provided by the invention can not only resist the damage of ultraviolet light and visible light to the skin, but also repair the skin barrier damage caused by ultraviolet light and visible light by promoting the expression of barrier-related proteins; and the photoprotective whitening composition for sensitive skin provided by the invention also has the characteristics of safety and mildness.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and in particular relates to a photoprotective whitening composition for sensitive skin and application thereof. Background Art

[0002] The skin is the largest and outermost organ of the human body. It is the main protective barrier between the internal and external environment of the human body and can protect the body from environmental damage. Environmental and lifestyle factors, such as light, radiation, pollution, cigarette smoke and eating habits, are all causes of exogenous skin damage. Of all exposure factors, ultraviolet and visible light are the most serious causes of skin damage. They can cause skin problems such as photosensitivity, erythema, barrier damage, aging, pigmentation, and in severe cases, skin cancer. People's quality of life and emotional well-being are affected by changes in skin appearance.

[0003] Ultraviolet rays (UV) are divided into UVB (290-320nm) and UVA (320-400nm). As we all know, UVA has strong penetration and can directly reach the dermis of the skin, thereby destroying the elastic fibers and collagen fibers of the skin, which in turn causes the skin to be tanned and aged. UVB has slightly weaker penetration and can only reach the epidermis, but it can cause redness and sunburn in a short period of time, causing skin redness, swelling, pain, and in severe cases, blisters and peeling. Visible light (VL) accounts for about 43% of sunlight, including blue light (400-500nm), green light (500-600nm) and red light (600-700nm). Current studies have shown that excessive exposure to blue light and red light can also cause certain adverse effects on the skin. In particular, blue light is not only present in sunlight, but the use of more and more electronic devices and other artificial light sources has also changed the exposure pattern of blue light. The results of in vitro, in vivo and clinical studies have shown that long-term exposure to blue light can cause direct and indirect damage to the skin. Unlike UV rays that cause immediate damage to the skin, blue light damage always accumulates in daily life and is difficult to detect in a short period of time. This situation becomes more serious as people spend more time in front of screens. Therefore, UV rays and blue light are currently the culprits of skin photodamage, and daily protection is very important.

[0004] The stratum corneum is the first barrier of the outermost layer of the skin against external damage. Existing studies have shown that light can affect the morphology of the epidermis, including increasing the average thickness of the stratum corneum, destroying the permeability barrier, causing changes in lipid morphology, increasing transepidermal water loss, and reducing hydration. Exposure to ultraviolet and blue light can also affect the mechanical barrier function of the stratum corneum. In particular, the levels of filaggrin (FLG), involucrin (IVL), loricrin (LOR), and fibrillin-1 (FBN1), which are related to the skin barrier function, will decrease under long-term light exposure. Therefore, ultraviolet and blue light can also cause skin barrier damage and induce skin inflammation. For sensitive skin, the barrier is already damaged, and the ability to protect against ultraviolet rays is even worse. However, current research on light damage mainly focuses on photoaging and whitening, and there has not been a lot of research on other skin problems caused by light, including barrier damage and inflammation. Summary of the invention

[0005] The purpose of the present invention is to overcome the deficiencies of the above-mentioned prior art and provide a photoprotective whitening composition and its application for sensitive skin that can effectively produce light protection, specifically to resist damage to the skin caused by ultraviolet light and visible light, repair inflammation, erythema and other problems caused by skin barrier damage caused by ultraviolet light and visible light, and brighten the skin color after irradiation with ultraviolet light and visible light to achieve a whitening effect, and promote the expression of barrier-related proteins (such as filaggrin, involucrin, loricrin, and fibrillin).

[0006] To achieve the above-mentioned purpose, in a first aspect of the present invention, the present invention provides a photoprotective whitening composition for sensitive skin, wherein the photoprotective whitening composition for sensitive skin comprises the following components in parts by mass: 0.1-5 parts of oxidized resveratrol, 0.1-5 parts of phytol, 0.1-3 parts of scutellaria baicalensis root extract, 0.1-1 parts of rosa roxburghii fruit extract, and 0.1-1 parts of malus tamanu extract.

[0007] The present invention selects components in appropriate proportions, specifically oxidized resveratrol, phytol, radix strychnifoliae extract, rosa roxburghii fruit extract and malus tamanu extract. The five ingredients can synergize with each other to produce a significant light protection effect. Specifically, the light protection and whitening composition for sensitive skin provided by the present invention can not only resist the damage of ultraviolet light and visible light to the skin, but also repair the skin barrier damage caused by ultraviolet light and visible light, such as inflammation and erythema caused by barrier damage; at the same time, it can also promote the expression of barrier-related proteins, such as filaggrin, involucrin, loricrin and fibrillin; and the light protection and whitening composition for sensitive skin provided by the present invention can also brighten the skin tone and achieve the whitening effect. At the same time, the composition provided by the present invention has the characteristics of safety and mildness, and is also suitable for sensitive skin.

[0008] Specifically, oxidized resveratrol is a natural diphenylethylene, which has received widespread attention in recent years due to its simple chemical structure and diverse therapeutic potential. Studies have shown that oxidized resveratrol has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-cancer and cardiovascular protective effects. It is also a powerful tyrosinase inhibitor and is widely used in skin whitening and anti-browning agents. The present invention unexpectedly discovered that adding oxidized resveratrol to the composition can effectively repair skin barrier damage caused by ultraviolet or visible light, and alleviate the resulting erythema and other phenomena.

[0009] Phytol is a diterpene component of chlorophyll. It can be converted from phytol to phytaldehyde and finally to phytic acid in the body. This pathway is similar to the conversion pathway of retinol. Phytol can activate the retinol receptor RAR and the retinoid receptor RXR, so it has anti-aging effects similar to retinol. At the same time, phytol can also activate the gene expression of human peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor α (PPAR-α), which is closely related to the endogenous repair of the skin barrier, thereby promoting the synthesis of endogenous barrier lipid components in the body.

[0010] Huang Xixin is a plant of the genus Huang Xixin under the family Mirabilis, included in the Indian Ayurvedic Pharmacopoeia, and has a wide range of antibacterial activity. The root of this plant is the main source of a class of flavonoid glycosides, namely, pannacoside. Due to the presence of pannacoside, its root has antifibrinolytic activity and is considered to be useful in treating wound healing. In addition to this compound, the root of Huang Xixin also contains flavonoids, flavonoid glycosides, lignans, steroids and other active substances, which reduce the activity of tyrosinase by activating PPAR-γ (peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor), and at the same time have the effect of brightening the skin tone, reducing pigmentation, and has a certain oil control effect.

[0011] Seabuckthorn is a wild fruit in Guizhou, Guangxi and other places in my country. Seabuckthorn juice is rich in nutrients such as vitamin C and superoxide dismutase (SOD); SOD is an important antioxidant enzyme in the body, has special physiological activity, and is the primary substance for removing free radicals in the body. It can resist and block the damage caused by oxygen free radicals to cells and repair damaged cells in time.

[0012] The Qiongya Begonia is an evergreen tree of the Gustaceae family and the genus Pachystrophy. Its flowers and fruits contain a large amount of lactone components, which can have anti-inflammatory and blood-activating effects, and have antibacterial and antifungal effects. It can assist in the treatment of skin diseases such as athlete's foot, tinea cruris, or eczema, and can promote the subsidence of inflammation, thereby alleviating skin symptoms.

[0013] As a preferred embodiment of the photoprotective whitening composition for sensitive skin of the present invention, the photoprotective whitening composition for sensitive skin comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.3-1 part of oxidized resveratrol, 0.5-1 part of phytol, 0.3-1 part of scutellaria baicalensis root extract, 0.2-0.5 part of rosa roxburghii fruit extract, and 0.2-0.5 part of malus tamanu extract.

[0014] The present invention has found that the mass parts of the components in the photoprotective whitening composition for sensitive skin will also affect the comprehensive performance of the composition. When the mass parts of the components in the composition are further selected to be within the range given above, the obtained composition has a better protection effect against blue light and can better promote the expression of barrier proteins; when it is subsequently applied to the preparation of cosmetics, the obtained cosmetics have a better comprehensive effect.

[0015] As a preferred embodiment of the photoprotective whitening composition for sensitive skin of the present invention, the weight ratio of the oxidized resveratrol to the radix scutellariae root extract is oxidized resveratrol:radix scutellariae root extract=(1-2):1.

[0016] The present invention has found that the mass ratio between oxidized resveratrol and the extract from the root of Scutellaria baicalensis will also affect the comprehensive effect of the composition. When the weight ratio of oxidized resveratrol and the extract from the root of Scutellaria baicalensis is further selected to be (1-2):1, the obtained product has a more significant effect on promoting the expression of barrier proteins and a stronger ability to repair blue light damage.

[0017] As a preferred embodiment of the photoprotective whitening composition for sensitive skin of the present invention, the weight ratio of the oxidized resveratrol, the roxburghii fruit extract and the tamanu extract is oxidized resveratrol: roxburghii fruit extract: tamanu extract = 1: (0.5-0.8): (0.5-0.8).

[0018] The present invention has found that the weight ratio of oxidized resveratrol, roxburghii fruit extract and tamanu extract will also affect the comprehensive performance of the composition to a certain extent. When the weight ratio of oxidized resveratrol, roxburghii fruit extract and tamanu extract is further selected to be 1:(0.5-0.8):(0.5-0.8), the comprehensive effect of the composition is better. When applied to the preparation of cosmetics, the composition can better enhance the skin barrier ability, repair erythema, brighten the skin tone and whiten the skin.

[0019] As a preferred embodiment of the photoprotective whitening composition for sensitive skin of the present invention, the mass percentage of total scutellaria lactones in the tamanu extract is 5-20%.

[0020] It should be noted that the test method for the mass percentage of total calendula lactones in the tamanu extract of the present invention is to use a high performance liquid chromatography analysis method to obtain the mass percentage of total calendula lactones by comparative analysis with a standard product.

[0021] Preferably, in the tamanu extract, the mass percentage of total scutellaria lactones is 10-15%.

[0022] The present invention has found that the mass percentage of total scutellaria lactones in the tamanu extract not only affects the light protection effect of the composition, but also has a certain influence on the skin repair effect of the composition. When the mass percentage of total scutellaria lactones in the tamanu extract is further selected to be 5-20%, especially 10-15%, the comprehensive effect of the obtained product is more excellent.

[0023] As a preferred embodiment of the photoprotective whitening composition for sensitive skin of the present invention, the preparation method of the Scutellaria baicalensis root extract includes the following steps: taking the Scutellaria baicalensis root, crushing it, adding it to an ethanol aqueous solution or ethanol, and heating for extraction, followed by filtering, collecting the filtrate and concentrating it to obtain the Scutellaria baicalensis root extract.

[0024] Preferably, during the heating extraction, the solid-liquid ratio is 1 g: (4-20) mL.

[0025] More preferably, during the heating extraction, the solid-liquid ratio is 1 g: (5-10) mL.

[0026] Preferably, during the heating extraction, the temperature is 40-60° C., the time is 1-2 h, and stirring is maintained during the extraction process.

[0027] Preferably, in the ethanol aqueous solution, the volume percentage of ethanol is ≥40%.

[0028] More preferably, in the ethanol aqueous solution, the volume percentage of ethanol is 50-60%.

[0029] The present invention has found that when the preparation method of the Rhizoma Corydalis Root extract provided by the present invention is adopted for preparation, the synergistic effect of the Rhizoma Corydalis Root extract obtained and other components is better, and a composition with better comprehensive effect can be obtained.

[0030] As a preferred embodiment of the photoprotective whitening composition for sensitive skin of the present invention, the preparation method of the roxburghii fruit extract comprises the following steps: taking the roxburghii fruit, crushing it, adding it to an ethanol aqueous solution for reflux extraction, then filtering, collecting and concentrating the filtrate to obtain the roxburghii fruit extract.

[0031] Preferably, in the reflux extraction, the solid-liquid ratio is 1 g: (4-20) mL.

[0032] More preferably, in the reflux extraction, the solid-liquid ratio is 1 g: (5-10) mL.

[0033] Preferably, during the reflux extraction, the temperature is 60-80° C. and the time is 1-2 h.

[0034] Preferably, the volume percentage of ethanol in the ethanol aqueous solution is 50-80%.

[0035] More preferably, in the ethanol aqueous solution, the volume percentage of ethanol is 60-70%.

[0036] The present invention has found that the preparation method of the roxburghii fruit extract will also affect its interaction with other components to a certain extent. When the preparation method of the roxburghii fruit extract is further selected as the method provided by the present invention, the obtained composition can better protect against light damage, enhance the barrier capacity of the skin, brighten the skin tone after sun exposure, and achieve a whitening effect.

[0037] As a preferred embodiment of the photoprotective whitening composition for sensitive skin of the present invention, the preparation method of the Begonia tamanufacture extract comprises the following steps: taking the flowers of Begonia tamanufacture, crushing them and adding them to a methanol aqueous solution or methanol for immersion, filtering after the immersion, collecting and concentrating the filtrate to obtain the Begonia tamanufacture extract.

[0038] Preferably, the solid-liquid ratio in the impregnation is 1 g: (3-20) mL.

[0039] More preferably, the solid-liquid ratio in the impregnation is 1 g:10 mL.

[0040] Preferably, in the methanol aqueous solution, the volume percentage of methanol is ≥80%.

[0041] Preferably, the immersion temperature is 20-30°C and the time is 10-30 days.

[0042] The present invention has found that when the above method is used for preparation, the mass percentage of total scutellaria lactones in the obtained tamanu extract is between 5% and 20%, and a more excellent efficacy of the composition can be achieved.

[0043] In the second aspect of the present invention, the present invention provides the use of the photoprotective whitening composition for sensitive skin in the preparation of cosmetics.

[0044] The photoprotective whitening composition for sensitive skin provided by the present invention has an excellent effect of resisting light damage, and can also effectively repair barrier damage and erythema caused by light, thereby achieving the effects of brightening the skin tone and whitening the skin; therefore, it can be added into cosmetics as an effective ingredient, and the prepared cosmetics have good effects of repairing the skin barrier, alleviating erythema, whitening the skin, etc.

[0045] As a preferred embodiment of the application of the present invention, the cosmetics include any one of lotion, emulsion, cream, mask, essence, and spray.

[0046] In the third aspect of the present invention, the present invention provides an essence, which comprises the following components in mass percentage: 3-15% of the photoprotective whitening composition for sensitive skin, 0.1-0.5% of a thickener, 2-10% of a moisturizer, 1-10% of an emulsifier, 0.5-5% of a preservative, 0.01-0.15% of a flavor, 0.05-0.5% of a pH adjuster, and the remainder of water.

[0047] The present invention has found that adding 3-15% of the photoprotective whitening composition for sensitive skin of the present invention to an essence can achieve the excellent effects of the essence in enhancing skin barrier ability, relieving erythema, whitening skin, etc., and the prepared essence is friendly to sensitive skin, that is, has a wide range of uses.

[0048] As a preferred embodiment of the essence of the present invention, the thickener includes at least one of polyacrylate cross-linked polymer-6, carbomer, carrageenan, gellan gum, microcrystalline cellulose, cellulose gum, ethyl cellulose, taro gum, and guar gum.

[0049] As a preferred embodiment of the essence of the present invention, the moisturizer includes at least one of glycerin, D-panthenol, vitamin B5, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,3-propylene glycol, sodium hyaluronate, tremella polysaccharide, trehalose, betaine, and squalane.

[0050] As a preferred embodiment of the essence of the present invention, the emulsifier includes at least one of ethylhexylglycerin, dimethicone, steareth-2, steareth, caprylic / capric triglyceride, C14-22 alkyl alcohol / C12-20 alkyl glucoside, polymethyl silsesquioxane, and cetearyl glucoside.

[0051] As a preferred embodiment of the essence of the present invention, the preservative includes at least one of p-hydroxyacetophenone and polyol.

[0052] Preferably, the polyol includes at least one of propylene glycol, pentylene glycol and hexylene glycol.

[0053] As a preferred embodiment of the essence of the present invention, the pH regulator includes at least one of disodium ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid and arginine.

[0054] Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following beneficial effects:

[0055] The present invention provides a photoprotective whitening composition for sensitive skin, by selecting components in appropriate proportions, specifically oxidized resveratrol, phytol, yellow fine heart root extract, roxburghii fruit extract and tamanu extract, the 5 ingredients can synergize with each other, not only can resist the damage of ultraviolet light and visible light to the skin, but also can repair the skin barrier damage caused by ultraviolet light and visible light, such as inflammation, erythema, dull skin color and other phenomena caused by barrier damage; At the same time, it can also promote the expression of barrier-related proteins such as filament protein, involucrin, loricrin, and fibrillin; And, the photoprotective whitening composition for sensitive skin provided by the present invention also has the characteristics of safety and mildness, and is also applicable to sensitive skin. In addition, the photoprotective whitening composition for sensitive skin provided by the present invention can be used in the preparation of cosmetics, and the prepared cosmetics are mild and non-irritating, can effectively prevent the damage caused by ultraviolet light and visible light to the skin, enhance the skin's tolerance to light, and repair skin damage and erythema caused by light; At the same time, the composition can also effectively brighten the skin tone and has a whitening effect. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0056] Figure 1 The results of taking photos of volunteers before and after using the product in Application Example 1;

[0057] Figure 2 These are the photos taken by volunteers before and after using the product in Comparative Application Example 1. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0058] In order to better illustrate the purpose, technical solutions and advantages of the present invention, the present invention will be further described below in conjunction with specific embodiments.

[0059] Unless otherwise specified, the reagents, methods and equipment used in the present invention are all conventional reagents, methods and equipment in the art; and unless otherwise specified, the raw materials used in parallel experiments are from the same batch of raw materials.

[0060] Huang Xixin root extract 1: Homemade, the preparation method includes the following steps:

[0061] The root of the yellow wormwood was cleaned and placed in a 50°C constant temperature oven to dry to constant weight, ground and crushed, and passed through a No. 5 sieve. The sieve was collected and 1 g was added to 10 mL of 50% ethanol aqueous solution by volume, and then heated and stirred at 60°C for 1 h. After the heating and stirring extraction was completed, the root was filtered, the filtrate was collected and concentrated under reduced pressure to remove ethanol, and the yellow wormwood root extract 1 was obtained;

[0062] Huang Xixin root extract 2: Homemade, the preparation method includes the following steps:

[0063] The root of the yellow wormwood was cleaned and placed in a 50°C constant temperature oven to dry to constant weight, ground and crushed, and passed through a No. 5 sieve. The sieve was collected and 1 g was added to 20 mL of 80% ethanol aqueous solution by volume, and then heated and stirred at 30°C for 2 h. After the heating and stirring extraction was completed, the root was filtered, the filtrate was collected and concentrated under reduced pressure to remove ethanol, and the yellow wormwood root extract 2 was obtained;

[0064] Rosa roxburghii fruit extract 1: Homemade, the preparation method includes the following steps:

[0065] The roxburghii fruit was cleaned and sliced, placed in a 50°C constant temperature oven and dried to constant weight, ground and crushed, and passed through a No. 5 sieve, 1 g of the sieve was collected and added to 10 mL of 60% ethanol aqueous solution, and then refluxed at 60°C for 2 h. After the reflux extraction was completed, the filtrate was filtered, and the filtrate was collected and concentrated under reduced pressure to remove ethanol, thereby obtaining the roxburghii fruit extract 1;

[0066] Rosa roxburghii fruit extract 2: Homemade, the preparation method includes the following steps:

[0067] The roxburghii fruit was cleaned and sliced, placed in a 50°C constant temperature oven and dried to constant weight, ground and crushed, and passed through a No. 5 sieve. 1 g of the sieve was collected and added to 10 mL of anhydrous ethanol, followed by reflux extraction at 60°C for 2 h. After the reflux extraction was completed, the filtrate was filtered, and the filtrate was collected and concentrated under reduced pressure to remove ethanol to obtain the roxburghii fruit extract 2;

[0068] Tamanu extract 1: Homemade, the preparation method includes the following steps:

[0069] The flowers of Begonia truncatum are collected, cleaned, and dried in a 40°C constant temperature oven to constant weight, crushed, and passed through a No. 5 sieve, the sieve-under-sieve material is collected, and 1 g of the material is added to 10 mL of a methanol aqueous solution with a volume fraction of 80%, and immersed at 25°C for 10 days. After the immersion is completed, the immersion liquid is collected, and the methanol is removed by decompression and concentration to obtain a Begonia truncatum flower extract 1; wherein the mass percentage of total scutellaria lactone in the Begonia truncatum flower extract is 12%;

[0070] Tamanu extract 2: Homemade, the preparation method includes the following steps:

[0071] The flowers of Begonia truncatum are collected, cleaned, and dried in a 40°C constant temperature oven to constant weight, crushed, and passed through a No. 5 sieve, the sieve material is collected, and 1 g of the material is added to 10 mL of a methanol aqueous solution with a volume fraction of 80%, and immersed at 25°C for 30 days. After the immersion is completed, the immersion liquid is collected, and the methanol is removed by decompression and concentration to obtain a Begonia truncatum flower extract 2; wherein the mass percentage of total scutellaria lactone in the Begonia truncatum flower extract is 20%;

[0072] Tamanu extract 3: Homemade, the preparation method includes the following steps:

[0073] The flowers of Begonia truncatum are collected, cleaned, and dried in a 40°C constant temperature oven to constant weight, crushed, and passed through a No. 5 sieve, the sieve-under-sieve material is collected, and 1 g of the material is added to 4 mL of a methanol aqueous solution with a volume fraction of 80%, and immersed at 25°C for 10 days. After the immersion is completed, the immersion liquid is collected, and the methanol is removed by decompression and concentration to obtain a Begonia truncatum flower extract 3; wherein the mass percentage of total scutellaria lactone in the Begonia truncatum flower extract is 5%;

[0074] Tamanu extract 4: Homemade, the preparation method includes the following steps:

[0075] The flowers of Begonia natans were collected, cleaned, dried in a 40°C constant temperature oven to constant weight, crushed, and passed through a No. 5 sieve. The sieve material was collected and 1 g was added to 4 mL of a 50% methanol aqueous solution, and refluxed for extraction at 60°C for 2 h. After the reflux extraction, the filtrate was collected, and the methanol was removed by vacuum concentration to obtain a Begonia natans flower extract 4; wherein the mass percentage of total scutellaria lactones in the Begonia natans flower extract was 20%.

[0076] Examples 1-12 and Comparative Examples 1-11

[0077] The embodiments and comparative examples of the present invention provide a photoprotective whitening composition for sensitive skin, and the components (parts by mass) of the composition are shown in Table 1;

[0078] Table 1

[0079]

[0080]

[0081] The preparation method of the photoprotective whitening composition for sensitive skin provided in Example 1 is: mixing the components evenly to obtain the photoprotective whitening composition for sensitive skin.

[0082] The preparation methods of the photoprotective whitening compositions for sensitive skin provided in Examples 2-12 and Comparative Examples 1-11 are consistent with that in Example 1.

[0083] Comparative Example 12

[0084] The comparative example of the present invention provides a photoprotective whitening composition for sensitive skin. The only difference between the photoprotective whitening composition for sensitive skin and Example 1 is that vitamin C is used instead of oxidized resveratrol.

[0085] Comparative Example 13

[0086] The comparative example of the present invention provides a photoprotective whitening composition for sensitive skin. The only difference between the photoprotective whitening composition for sensitive skin and Example 1 is that bakuchiol is used instead of phytol.

[0087] Comparative Example 14

[0088] The comparative example of the present invention provides a photoprotective whitening composition for sensitive skin. The only difference between the photoprotective whitening composition for sensitive skin and Example 1 is that the Scutellaria baicalensis root extract is used instead of the Scutellaria baicalensis root extract.

[0089] Comparative Example 15

[0090] The comparative example of the present invention provides a photoprotective whitening composition for sensitive skin, wherein the photoprotective whitening composition for sensitive skin is only different from Example 1 in that the apple extract replaces the roxburghii fruit extract.

[0091] Comparative Example 16

[0092] The comparative example of the present invention provides a photoprotective whitening composition for sensitive skin, wherein the photoprotective whitening composition for sensitive skin is different from that of Example 1 in that the extract of Hypericum perforatum is used instead of the extract of Malus tamanu.

[0093] The application examples, comparative application examples and blank application examples of the present invention provide an essence, and the components (mass percentage) of the essence are shown in Table 2; wherein the light-protective whitening compositions for sensitive skin used in Application Examples 1-12 are respectively the light-protective whitening compositions for sensitive skin prepared in Examples 1-12, and the light-protective whitening compositions for sensitive skin used in Comparative Application Examples 1-16 are respectively the light-protective whitening compositions for sensitive skin prepared in Comparative Examples 1-16; the light-protective whitening compositions for sensitive skin used in Application Examples 13-14 are the light-protective whitening compositions for sensitive skin prepared in Example 1;

[0094] Table 2

[0095]

[0096] The preparation method of the essence provided in Application Example 1 comprises the following steps:

[0097] S1. Add each component in phase A into water in turn, and mix homogeneously after Carbomer 980 is fully swollen to obtain a homogeneous phase A;

[0098] S2. Heat the homogenized phase A and phase B to 80°C respectively, and then mix and emulsify to obtain a mixed phase AB;

[0099] S3. After heating phase C until p-hydroxyacetophenone is melted, add it into the mixed phase AB and stir evenly. After cooling to 40°C, add phase D and continue stirring to form a uniform emulsion to obtain the essence.

[0100] The preparation methods of the essences provided in Application Examples 2-14, Comparative Application Examples 1-16 and Blank Application Examples are consistent with that in Application Example 1.

[0101] Effect Example 1

[0102] The effect examples of the present invention explore the effect of the photoprotective whitening composition for sensitive skin prepared by Examples 1-12 and Comparative Examples 1-16 on the activity of keratinocytes under blue light irradiation and the protective effect on the skin barrier under UVB ultraviolet light.

[0103] 1. Effect on keratinocyte activity under blue light

[0104] Human immortalized keratinocytes (HaCaT) cells (lot number: PN14) were inoculated into DMEM medium supplemented with 10% fetal bovine serum and 1% penicillin-streptomycin 100 μg / mL solution, and cultured in an incubator at 37° C. containing 5% CO 2 .

[0105] HaCaT cells (3×10 5 Before blue light irradiation, the culture medium was replaced with 1 mL PBS in each well; the cells were exposed to different blue light at 80 mJ / cm in an uncovered plastic culture dish. 2 , 450nm irradiation; after irradiation with the light source, PBS was removed and replaced with fresh culture medium, and 20μL of different compositions were added or not added for co-culture for 48h, and then the activity of HaCaT cells was detected by MTT method, among which the group without the composition was the blue light irradiation group; the cell activity without blue light irradiation was 100%;

[0106] Cell viability (%) = (total number of cells - number of dead cells) / total number of cells × 100%;

[0107] The higher the cell activity after being irradiated with blue light, the stronger the photoprotective effect of the photoprotective whitening composition for sensitive skin. The results are shown in Table 3.

[0108] 2. Protective effect on skin barrier under UVB ultraviolet light

[0109] Keratinocytes (HaCat cells) were purchased from Guangzhou Customs Technology Center. In a cell culture incubator at 37°C with 5% CO2, DMEM medium supplemented with 10% fetal bovine serum, 100 mg / mL penicillin and 100 mg / mL streptomycin was used as the culture medium. 5×10 3 HaCat cells were seeded at a density of 10 cells / well in 48-well plates and cultured continuously.

[0110] HaCaT cells (3×10 5 Each well was cultured in a 35 mm diameter cell culture dish (100 μg / well). Before UVB irradiation, the culture medium was replaced with 1 mL of PBS in each well. The cells were exposed to different UVB at 80 mJ / cm in an uncovered plastic culture dish.2 , 320nm irradiation; after irradiation with the light source, PBS was removed, replaced with fresh culture medium, and 20μL of different compositions were added to treat HaCaT cells for 24h, and the culture medium without the sensitive skin light protection whitening composition and UVB irradiation was used as the blank control group, and the culture medium without the composition after UVB irradiation was used as the UVB model group;

[0111] Cells were collected, total RNA was extracted with TRIzol reagent, and cRNA was synthesized using the reverse transcription kit PrimeScript RT. Then, relative quantitative analysis of mRNA expression was performed using the CFX96 Touch Real-Time PCR Detection System (Bio-Rad, Hercules, CA, USA). The experimental conditions were: initial denaturation at 95°C for 5 min, followed by 40 cycles of 95°C / 15 s, 60°C / 30 s, and 72°C / 30 s. Next, after normalization to the level of GAPDH transcripts, the relative cDNA level was calculated using the 2-ΔΔCt method.

[0112] The gene expression promotion rates of barrier proteins: filaggrin (FLG), involucrin (IVL), loricrin (LOR) and fibrillin-1 (FBN 1) were calculated respectively; gene expression rate of barrier proteins (%) = (relative cDNA level of each protein in the UVB model group - relative cDNA level of each protein in the test group or blank group) / relative cDNA level of each protein in the UVB model group × 100%;

[0113] The higher the gene expression rate of the barrier protein, the stronger the photoprotective effect of the photoprotective whitening composition for sensitive skin containing oxidized resveratrol of the present invention; the obtained results are shown in Table 3;

[0114] Table 3

[0115]

[0116]

[0117] As can be seen from Table 3, after HaCaT cells were irradiated with blue light, the cell viability decreased by 23.41%, indicating that keratinocytes were induced to die by blue light and the skin was damaged; and the photoprotective whitening composition for sensitive skin provided by the present invention can improve the cell death caused by blue light and has a protective effect on skin cells.

[0118] At the same time, it can be seen from Table 3 that UVB has an inhibitory effect on the expression of barrier proteins in skin cells, indicating that UVB light is harmful to human skin. The photoprotective whitening composition for sensitive skin of the present invention can simultaneously promote the gene expression of four barrier proteins: filaggrin, involucrin, loricrin and fibrillin, which is beneficial to the repair of the skin barrier and helps to achieve the purpose of effectively preventing and repairing skin photodamage.

[0119] Effect Example 2

[0120] The effect examples of the present invention explore the effects of the essence prepared by application examples 1-14, comparative application examples 1-16 and blank application examples on skin erythema, barrier repair and skin color improvement, including the following steps:

[0121] The participants were enrolled in the study who spent at least 2 hours outdoors per day and had skin barrier damage (TEWL ≥ 20 g / hm 2 ) were recruited. No products could be applied to the test area (face) on the day of the visit. After washing their faces, they sat quietly in an air-conditioned room with a temperature of 21±1℃ and a humidity of 50±10% for 20 minutes. Then they were randomly divided into 31 groups, with 3 people in each group. TM Hex (Courage+Khazaka) and color probe ColorimeterCL400 measured the initial TEWL value, initial a* value and ITA° value of the left and right faces of each volunteer, and took the average value. Each group of volunteers used the same amount of essence on their faces once in the morning and evening, and then measured the TEWL value, a* value and ITA° value of the facial skin after use on the 14th and 28th days, and took the average value. Then, the corresponding average value was used to calculate the respective improvement rate (%) according to the following formula:

[0122] TEWL value improvement rate (%) = (initial TEWL value - TEWL value after use) / initial TEWL value × 100%;

[0123] a* value improvement rate (%) = (initial a* value - a* value after use) / initial a* value × 100%;

[0124] ITA° value improvement rate (%) = (initial ITA° value - ITA° value after use) / initial ITA° value × 100%;

[0125] Among them, the greater the improvement rate of TEWL value, the stronger the skin barrier damage repair ability of the essence; the greater the improvement rate of a* value, the stronger the soothing and redness fading ability of the essence; the greater the improvement rate of ITA° value, the stronger the ability of the essence to whiten and brighten the skin tone; the results are shown in Table 4;

[0126] Table 4

[0127]

[0128]

[0129] It can be seen from Table 4 that the essence provided by the present invention can repair skin barrier damage caused by ultraviolet rays, and can brighten facial skin and improve facial redness; in addition, the photographs of the volunteers in Application Example 1 and the volunteers in Comparative Application Example 1 before and after using the corresponding products are shown in Figures 4 and 5, respectively. Figure 1 , Figure 2 As shown, from Figure 1-2 It can also be intuitively seen that the product prepared using the technical solution provided by the present invention can effectively soothe the skin barrier after sun exposure and brighten and whiten the skin tone.

[0130] Finally, it should be noted that the above embodiments are intended to illustrate the technical solution of the present invention rather than to limit the scope of protection of the present invention. Although the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the preferred embodiments, those skilled in the art should understand that the technical solution of the present invention may be modified or replaced by equivalents without departing from the essence and scope of the technical solution of the present invention.

Claims

1. A photoprotective whitening composition for sensitive skin, characterized in that: The photoprotective whitening composition for sensitive skin is composed of the following components in parts by weight: 0.1-3 parts of oxidized resveratrol, 0.1-5 parts of phytol, 0.1-3 parts of radix scutellariae root extract, 0.1-1 parts of roxburghii fruit extract, and 0.1-1 parts of malus tamanu extract; The weight ratio of the oxidized resveratrol to the radix scutellariae root extract is oxidized resveratrol:radix scutellariae root extract = (1-2): 1; The weight ratio of the oxidized resveratrol, the roxburghii fruit extract and the tamanu extract is oxidized resveratrol: roxburghii fruit extract: tamanu extract = 1: (0.5-0.8): (0.5-0.8); In the tamanu extract, the mass percentage of total sclerotium lactones is 5-20%.

2. The photoprotective whitening composition for sensitive skin according to claim 1, characterized in that: The photoprotective whitening composition for sensitive skin is composed of the following components in parts by weight: 0.3-1 part of oxidized resveratrol, 0.5-1 part of phytol, 0.3-1 part of radix scutellariae root extract, 0.2-0.5 part of roxburghii fruit extract, and 0.2-0.5 part of malus tamanu extract.

3. The photoprotective whitening composition for sensitive skin according to claim 1, characterized in that: The preparation method of the Huang Xi Xin root extract comprises the following steps: taking the Huang Xi Xin root, crushing it, adding it to an ethanol aqueous solution or ethanol, heating and extracting it, then filtering it, collecting and concentrating the filtrate to obtain the Huang Xi Xin root extract; And / or, the preparation method of the roxburghii fruit extract comprises the following steps: taking roxburghii fruit, crushing it, adding it to an ethanol aqueous solution for reflux extraction, then filtering, collecting and concentrating the filtrate to obtain the roxburghii fruit extract; And / or, the preparation method of the tamanufacture extract comprises the following steps: taking tamanufacture flowers, crushing them, adding them into methanol aqueous solution or methanol for immersion, filtering after immersion, collecting and concentrating the filtrate to obtain the tamanufacture extract.

4. The photoprotective whitening composition for sensitive skin according to claim 3, characterized in that: In the preparation of the extract of the root of the yellow wormwood, the solid-liquid ratio in the heating extraction is 1g: (4-20)mL, the temperature is 40-60°C, and the time is 1-2h; And / or, in the preparation of the roxburghii fruit extract, in the reflux extraction, the volume percentage of ethanol is 50-80%, the solid-liquid ratio is 1g: (4-20)mL, the temperature is 60-80°C, and the time is 1-2h; And / or, in the preparation of the tamanu extract, the solid-liquid ratio in the immersion is 1 g: (3-20) mL, the temperature is 20-30° C., and the time is 10-30 days.

5. Use of the photoprotective whitening composition for sensitive skin according to any one of claims 1 to 4 in the preparation of cosmetics.

6. An essence, characterized in that: The essence is composed of the following components in percentage by mass: 3-15% of the photoprotective whitening composition for sensitive skin according to any one of claims 1 to 4, 0.1-0.5% of a thickener, 2-10% of a moisturizer, 1-10% of an emulsifier, 0.5-5% of a preservative, 0.01-0.15% of a flavor, 0.05-0.5% of a pH adjuster, and the remainder of water.

7. The essence according to claim 6, characterized in that At least one of the following is met: a. The thickener comprises at least one of polyacrylate cross-linked polymer-6, carbomer, carrageenan, gellan gum, microcrystalline cellulose, cellulose gum, ethyl cellulose, thorny cloud gum, and guar gum; b. The moisturizing agent includes at least one of glycerin, D-panthenol, vitamin B5, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,3-propylene glycol, sodium hyaluronate, Tremella polysaccharide, trehalose, betaine and squalane; c. The emulsifier includes at least one of ethylhexylglycerin, dimethicone, stearyl alcohol polyether, caprylic / capric triglyceride, C14-22 alkyl alcohol / C12-20 alkyl glucoside, polymethyl silsesquioxane, and cetearyl glucoside; d. The preservative comprises at least one of p-hydroxyacetophenone and a polyol; e. The pH regulator includes at least one of disodium ethylenediaminetetraacetate and arginine.

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