Double-color three-dimensional jacquard fabric and process thereof

Abstract

The application discloses a double-color three-dimensional jacquard fabric and a process thereof, and belongs to the field of textile technology, and comprises a jacquard fabric, wherein the weaving structure of the jacquard fabric comprises ground tissue, weft insertion jacquard tissue and presser bar jacquard tissue; the ground tissue adopts combination of chain stitch and weft insertion to form elastic mesh ground tissue, the chain stitch of the ground tissue is interlaced and pulled by left and right weft insertion yarns of the weft insertion, and four ground combs are adopted for weaving; the weft insertion jacquard tissue adopts changeable jacquard tissue to form weft insertion jacquard patterns on the ground tissue, the changeable jacquard tissue comprises three-needle weft insertion tissue, double-needle weft insertion tissue and single-needle weft insertion tissue which are combined with each other and form thick tissue, thin tissue and mesh hole, and the weft insertion jacquard tissue and the ground tissue form a base fabric structure; the three-dimensional jacquard fabric with strong three-dimensional effect and a relief appearance is woven by combining a composite jacquard process and a single yarn selection process to configure the ground tissue, the weft insertion jacquard tissue and the presser bar jacquard tissue.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention discloses a textile technology, and in particular relates to a two-color three-dimensional jacquard fabric and its process. Background Technology

[0002] Jacquard is an important jacquard technique used in modern warp-knitted fabric production. The basic principle of jacquard is to change the fabric structure by controlling the offset of the guide needles, thereby forming different jacquard patterns.

[0003] Jacquard fabric is woven by a double-needle bed jacquard warp knitting machine. It has a three-dimensional structure, varied patterns, and good physical and mechanical properties. However, during production and wear, the monofilaments in the thickness direction are prone to collapse, affecting the appearance and wearability. The monofilament layer tends to float on the surface of the fabric, resulting in a rough feel and affecting the comfort during wear. In addition, the color effect is relatively monochromatic. Therefore, it is extremely important to find a fabric preparation method that is efficient in production, rich in color, and has clear and prominent patterns. Summary of the Invention

[0004] The purpose of this invention is to provide a two-color three-dimensional jacquard fabric and its process in order to solve the above-mentioned problems.

[0005] To achieve the above objectives, the present invention provides the following technical solution: a two-color three-dimensional jacquard fabric, comprising jacquard fabric, wherein the weaving structure of the jacquard fabric includes a ground structure, a weft-inserted jacquard structure, and a pressed-yarn jacquard structure;

[0006] The ground structure is formed by a combination of chain braiding and weft weaving to create an elastic mesh ground structure. The chain braiding of the ground structure is pulled by the left and right weft yarns of the weft weaving structure and is woven with four combs.

[0007] The weft-inserted jacquard weave uses a modified jacquard weave to form a weft-inserted jacquard pattern on the ground weave. The modified jacquard weave includes a combination of three-needle weft-inserted weave, double-needle weft-inserted weave and single-needle weft-inserted weave, forming thick weave, thin weave and mesh. The weft-inserted jacquard weave and the ground weave together form the base fabric structure.

[0008] The pressed yarn Jacquard structure adopts reverse open loop and four-needle technology. The pressed yarn of the pressed yarn Jacquard structure can cross one to four needles laterally for padding. The front Jacquard comb JB1.1 and the ground comb GB2 of the pressed yarn Jacquard structure form open loops by reverse padding. The rear Jacquard comb JB3 and the ground comb GB2 of the pressed yarn Jacquard structure are knitted in the same direction.

[0009] The weft-insertion jacquard weave employs a variation of jacquard weave including color zones I, II, III, and IV. The jacquard weave in color zone I is 0-0 / 3-3 / / , with control information HT; the jacquard weave in color zone II is 0-0 / 2-2 / / , with control information HH; the jacquard weave in color zone III is 1-1 / 3-3 / / , with control information TT; and the jacquard weave in color zone IV is 1-1 / 2-2 / / , with control information TH.

[0010] Preferably, the pressed jacquard weave uses 0-1 / 3-2 / / as the basic backing yarn and includes color zones 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6. The front jacquard control information for color zones 1, 2, and 3 is HHTT, the front jacquard control information for color zones 4, 5, and 6 is TTHH, and the rear jacquard control information for color zones 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 is HH, HT, TH, HT, TH, TT, respectively.

[0011] Preferably, the front Jacquard structure and the weft Jacquard structure used in the pressing yarn Jacquard structure have a configuration relationship with the single yarns used. The single yarn structures used are 1-2 / 3-3 / / , 1-1 / 2-2 / / , 1-1 / 4-3 / / , and 1-1 / 2-2 / / , respectively. The deviation information corresponding to the single yarn structures are TTHT, THHT, THTT, and THHT.

[0012] Preferably, the combing structure and warp thread configuration of the jacquard fabric are as follows:

[0013] Jacquard comb JB1.1: 0-1 / 3-2 / / ; Full wear;

[0014] Ground comb GB2: 1-0 / 0-1 / / ; Full wear;

[0015] Later Jakka comb JB3: 0-0 / 2-2 / / ; Full wear;

[0016] Spandex comb GB4: 0-0 / 1-1 / / ; Full wear.

[0017] A process for fabricating a two-tone three-dimensional jacquard fabric, wherein the fabric fabric application process is as follows:

[0018] For the width parameter setting, the RJWB4 / 2F floating knitting machine is used, with a total of 3120 needles, a jacquard pattern width of 204, 15 complete jacquard pattern cycles, and 30 needles each at the front and rear selvage of the machine.

[0019] The warping process uses GB2 full-thread ground combs and GB4 spandex combs, with each comb using 3120 yarns and employing 6 21"×21" head sections, each head section having 520 yarn threads. The front Jacquard comb JB1.1 and rear Jacquard comb JB3 use a yarn frame for yarn feeding, with the rear Jacquard comb JB3 having 3120 yarn bobbins and the front Jacquard comb JB1.1 having 1560 yarn bobbins.

[0020] The finishing process includes the following steps: washing → pre-setting → dyeing → drying → secondary setting;

[0021] The initial setting temperature is 185℃~190℃, and the setting time lasts for 1 minute; the secondary setting temperature is 130℃; methyl acid dye is used for dyeing, and the dyeing temperature is 95℃~100℃.

[0022] Compared with the prior art, the beneficial effects of the present invention are:

[0023] Firstly, by combining composite jacquard technology and single yarn selection technology, the basic structure of the jacquard fabric is configured as an elastic mesh structure with a multi-mesh structure, which has a light and transparent appearance effect, and highlights the three-dimensional effect of the main jacquard pattern. The use of four ground combs to increase the amount of yarn used gives the jacquard fabric excellent overall elasticity.

[0024] Secondly, the weft-inserted jacquard structure uses a modified jacquard structure to form a weft-inserted jacquard pattern on the ground structure. By shifting the jacquard guide needles, the number of needles shifted laterally on the back of the weft yarn can be changed, and the length of the weft-inserted structure extension line can be changed, thus forming different modified jacquard structures. By combining the modified jacquard structures, various weft-inserted jacquard patterns can be formed on the basic ground structure.

[0025] Third, the jacquard weave uses a configuration of 6 color zones to form the main pattern of the jacquard fabric. The jacquard is performed by the front jacquard comb and is combined with the single yarn selection system to cut off the excess yarns between the main patterns, so that the boundaries of the jacquard weave are clear, the weave areas are clearly divided and independent of each other, thus forming a jacquard pattern with a three-dimensional effect.

[0026] Fourth, in the press-knit jacquard weave, the yarns are wound around the base of the loops formed by the ground yarns. The extended yarns are not held or bound by other yarns and are presented on the top of the reverse side of the fabric. The three-dimensional effect is stronger than that of the weft-inserted jacquard weave, and it has a relief-like appearance effect. Attached Figure Description

[0027] Figure 1 Diagram and partial simplified diagram of the padding yarn in an elastic mesh fabric;

[0028] Figure 2 Configuration information chart for weft-lined Jacquard organization;

[0029] Figure 3 A schematic diagram of the yarn pressing structure when the front Jacquard comb and the ground comb use reverse yarn padding;

[0030] Figure 4 A schematic diagram of 16 different Jaccard tissues;

[0031] Figure 5 Color configuration and control information for composite Jacquard tissue;

[0032] Figure 6 The appearance effect diagram corresponding to the composite Jacquard tissue;

[0033] Figure 7 A chart showing the relationship between the selection process for single yarn and the control information of the former Jacquard.

[0034] Figure 8 This is a partial simulated floral pattern of a three-dimensional jacquard fabric. Detailed Implementation

[0035] The technical solutions of the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below with reference to the accompanying drawings. In this description, it should be understood that the terms "upper," "lower," "front," "rear," "left," "right," "top," "bottom," "inner," and "outer," etc., indicate the orientation or positional relationship based on the orientation or positional relationship shown in the accompanying drawings. They are only for the convenience of describing the present invention and simplifying the description, and do not indicate or imply that the device or element referred to must have a specific orientation, or be constructed and operated in a specific orientation. Therefore, they should not be construed as limitations on the present invention. Obviously, the described embodiments are only some embodiments of the present invention, not all embodiments. Based on the embodiments of the present invention, all other embodiments obtained by those skilled in the art without creative effort are within the scope of protection of the present invention.

[0036] Example 1

[0037] A two-color three-dimensional jacquard fabric and its process, including jacquard fabric, wherein the weaving structure of jacquard fabric includes ground structure, weft-inserted jacquard structure and pressed yarn jacquard structure.

[0038] The ground weave employs a combination of chain stitch and weft insertion to form an elastic mesh ground weave. The chain stitch of the ground weave is pulled and interlaced by the left and right weft insertion yarns of the weft insertion, and it uses a four-comb weave, such as... Figure 1The diagram shows the yarn backing diagram and a partial simplified diagram of the elastic mesh fabric. Four ground combs are arranged behind the front Jacquard comb. The first two ground combs can be used for loop forming, and the last two ground combs can be used for weft insertion. By using one loop forming comb and one weft insertion comb, a multi-mesh structure can be woven, which has a light and transparent appearance effect and enhances the three-dimensional effect of the main jacquard pattern. It is formed by utilizing the characteristics of the chain braiding structure and the weft insertion structure, which have low extensibility in the longitudinal and transverse directions, respectively. Because the chain braiding structure is pulled by the left and right weft insertion yarns, the force is balanced, so it maintains a vertical state in the longitudinal direction and the structure is relatively stable. Furthermore, the use of four ground combs increases the amount of yarn used and gives the jacquard fabric excellent overall elasticity.

[0039] The weft-inserted jacquard weave uses a modified jacquard weave to create a weft-inserted jacquard pattern on the ground fabric. Modified jacquard weaves include combinations of three-needle, two-needle, and single-needle weft-inserted weaves, forming thick, thin, and mesh structures to create the patterned base fabric structure. The weft-inserted jacquard weave and the ground fabric together constitute the base fabric structure. By shifting the jacquard guide needles, the stitch length of the weft yarn's lateral movement can be changed, altering the length of the weft extension lines, thus creating different modified jacquard weaves. This section of the weft-inserting Jacquard weave employs a three-needle technique, with a maximum horizontal span of three needles and a span distance of two needle lengths. Its basic padding yarn structure is 0-0 / 2-2 / / , with the extension yarn spanning one needle length, forming a two-needle weft insertion. Based on this basic padding yarn structure, the offset action of the Jacquard guide needles creates a variation of the Jacquard weft insertion on only one needle. Therefore, based on the length of the extension yarn, three different weave structures are obtained: three-needle weft insertion, two-needle weft insertion, and single-needle weft insertion. Figure 2 The diagram shows the configuration information for weft-inserted jacquard weaves. The weft-inserted jacquard weaves utilize variations in color zones I, II, III, and IV. Color zone I uses 0-0 / 3-3 / / with control information HT; color zone II uses 0-0 / 2-2 / / with control information HH; color zone III uses 1-1 / 3-3 / / with control information TT; and color zone IV uses 1-1 / 2-2 / / with control information TH. These variations in jacquard weaves are combined to create various weft-inserted jacquard patterns on a basic weave structure.

[0040] The pressed jacquard weave employs reverse open loops and a four-needle technique. The pressed jacquard yarn can be laid across one to four needles laterally. The front jacquard comb JB1.1 and the ground comb GB2 of the pressed jacquard weave use reverse yarn laying to form open loops, while the rear jacquard comb JB3 and the ground comb GB2 are woven in the same direction. The main pattern used to form the jacquard fabric is created through the front jacquard comb and coordinated with a single yarn selection system to trim excess yarn between the main patterns. This results in clear boundaries and well-defined, independent weave areas within the pressed jacquard weave, creating a three-dimensional effect. The pressed jacquard yarns are wound around the base of the loops formed by the ground yarns, and their extensions are not held or bound by other yarns, appearing on the top of the reverse side of the fabric. This creates a stronger three-dimensional effect than weft-inserted jacquard weaves, resulting in a relief-like appearance. The pressed yarn structure when the front jacquard comb and ground comb use reverse yarn laying is as follows... Figure 3 As shown, the padding yarn is easy to weave, and the resulting structure is a figure-eight shape with high stability, which helps to hide yarn breaks. The pressing yarn uses open loops, which are looser than closed loops, making the three-dimensional effect more prominent. The open loops have shorter loop lengths, and the thread ends left in the fabric after cutting are shorter, making the fabric surface cleaner. This ensures the structural stability of the jacquard fabric while achieving a neat and beautiful fabric surface effect.

[0041] Pressed jacquard weave uses 0-1 / 3-2 / / as the basic backing yarn, and can form a total of such... Figure 4 The 16 different Jacquard structures shown here are configured with 6 color zones, including zones 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6. The pre-Jacquard control information for zones 1, 2, and 3 is HHTT, while the pre-Jacquard control information for zones 4, 5, and 6 is TTHH. The post-Jacquard control information for zones 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 is HH, HT, TH, HT, TH, TT, respectively. Figure 5 and Figure 6 The image shows the composite Jacquard color configuration and control information, as well as the corresponding appearance effects.

[0042] like Figure 7 The diagram shows the relationship between the single yarn selection process and the front Jacquard control information. The front Jacquard structure used in the pressing Jacquard structure and the weft Jacquard structure has a configuration relationship with the single yarn used. The single yarn structures used are 1-2 / 3-3 / / , 1-1 / 2-2 / / , 1-1 / 4-3 / / , and 1-1 / 2-2 / / , respectively. The deviation information corresponding to the single yarn structures is TTHT, THHT, THTT, and THHT.

[0043] In the single yarn structure corresponding to 1-2 / 3-3 / / , the Jacquard guide needle deviates when padding yarn on the back and front of the needle in odd-numbered rows, causing it to form a knot in the adjacent longitudinal row on the left; it does not deviate when padding yarn on the back of the needle in even-numbered rows, but deviates when padding yarn in front of the needle, thus canceling out the padding yarn in front of the needle and forming a floating yarn; when the hook needle moves laterally on the back of the needle in even-numbered rows, it hooks out the yarn and makes it leave the working area, and after 3-4 rows, it cuts the yarn;

[0044] In the single-yarn weave corresponding to 1-1 / 2-2 / / , the Jacquard guide needle deflects when backing yarn in odd-numbered rows and does not deflect when fronting yarn; it does not deflect when backing yarn in even-numbered rows and deflects when fronting yarn, meaning it simultaneously cancels out the front yarn padding in both odd and even rows. After the yarn is cut, the Jacquard guide needle moves, forming a virtual float, and the yarn is no longer woven into the fabric.

[0045] In the single yarn structure corresponding to 1-1 / 4-3 / / , when the odd-numbered rows of needles are back-padded with yarn, the yarn shifts, but the yarn in front of the needles does not shift, forming a floating yarn; when the even-numbered rows of needles are back-padded with yarn and the yarn in front of the needles, the yarn shifts; the front Jacquard yarn re-enters the knitting area.

[0046] In the single-yarn weave corresponding to 1-1 / 2-2 / / , when the back yarn is padded in odd-numbered rows, the yarn shifts, while the front yarn does not shift, forming a float. In even-numbered rows, the back yarn does not shift, but the front yarn shifts, also forming a float. When there are only two rows between the floating effect areas in the longitudinal direction, the front Jacquard yarn is not cut, forming a float spanning two rows. The final partial simulation pattern is as follows: Figure 8 As shown.

[0047] The combing and warp configuration of jacquard fabrics is as follows:

[0048] (1) Front Jacquard comb JB1.1: 0-1 / 3-2 / / ; Full wear;

[0049] (2) Ground comb GB2: 1-0 / 0-1 / / ; Full wear;

[0050] (3) Houjiaka comb JB3: 0-0 / 2-2 / / ; Full wear;

[0051] (4) Spandex comb GB4: 0-0 / 1-1 / / ; Full wear.

[0052] Example 2

[0053] The fabric manufacturing process for two-tone, three-dimensional jacquard fabric is as follows:

[0054] (1) Width parameter setting: RJWB4 / 2F floating knitting machine is used, the total number of needles is 3120, the width of the jacquard pattern is 204, 15 complete jacquard pattern cycles are knitted, and the number of needles at the front and rear of the fabric edge is 30 each.

[0055] (2) Warping process: GB2 and GB4 are full-thread ground combs. Each comb uses 3120 yarns and six 21"×21" heads. Each head has 520 yarn threads. The front Jacquard comb JB1.1 and the rear Jacquard comb JB3 use a yarn frame for yarn feeding. The rear Jacquard comb JB3 has 3120 yarn bobbins and the front Jacquard comb JB1.1 has 1560 yarn bobbins.

[0056] (3) Finishing, including the following process flow: washing → pre-setting → dyeing → drying → secondary setting;

[0057] The initial setting temperature is 185℃~190℃, and the setting time lasts for 1 minute; the secondary setting temperature is 130℃; methyl acid dye is used for dyeing, and the dyeing temperature is 95℃~100℃.

[0058] The pressing Jacquard comb and the ground comb are designed to padded yarn in opposite directions to form open loops. This method of padded yarn has the advantages of being easy to weave, having a stable structure, and highlighting the three-dimensional effect of the appearance. The subsequent weft Jacquard comb and the ground comb are woven in the same direction, resulting in a relatively flat and soft fabric surface. Using the last spandex comb can form a flexible fancy base fabric.

[0059] It will be apparent to those skilled in the art that the present invention is not limited to the details of the exemplary embodiments described above, and that the invention can be implemented in other specific forms without departing from its spirit or essential characteristics. Therefore, the embodiments should be considered in all respects as exemplary and non-limiting, and the scope of the invention is defined by the appended claims rather than the foregoing description. Thus, all variations falling within the meaning and scope of equivalents of the claims are intended to be included within the present invention. No reference numerals in the claims should be construed as limiting the scope of the claims.

[0060] Furthermore, it should be understood that although this specification describes embodiments, not every embodiment contains only one independent technical solution. This narrative style is merely for clarity. Those skilled in the art should consider the specification as a whole, and the technical solutions in each embodiment can also be appropriately combined to form other embodiments that can be understood by those skilled in the art.

Claims

1. A two-tone three-dimensional jacquard fabric, characterized in that: Including Jacquard fabric, wherein the weaving structure of the Jacquard fabric includes a ground structure, a weft-inserted Jacquard structure, and a pressed-yarn Jacquard structure; The ground structure is formed by a combination of chain braiding and weft weaving to create an elastic mesh ground structure. The chain braiding of the ground structure is pulled by the left and right weft yarns of the weft weaving structure and is woven with four combs. The weft-inserted jacquard weave uses a modified jacquard weave to form a weft-inserted jacquard pattern on the ground weave. The modified jacquard weave includes a combination of three-needle weft-inserted weave, double-needle weft-inserted weave and single-needle weft-inserted weave, forming thick weave, thin weave and mesh. The weft-inserted jacquard weave and the ground weave together form the base fabric structure. The pressed yarn Jacquard structure adopts reverse open loop and four-needle technology. The pressed yarn of the pressed yarn Jacquard structure can cross one to four needles laterally for padding. The front Jacquard comb JB1.1 and the ground comb GB2 of the pressed yarn Jacquard structure form open loops by reverse padding. The rear Jacquard comb JB3 and the ground comb GB2 of the pressed yarn Jacquard structure are knitted in the same direction. The weft-insertion jacquard weave employs a variation of jacquard weave including color zones I, II, III, and IV. The jacquard weave in color zone I is 0-0 / 3-3 / / , with control information HT; the jacquard weave in color zone II is 0-0 / 2-2 / / , with control information HH; the jacquard weave in color zone III is 1-1 / 3-3 / / , with control information TT; and the jacquard weave in color zone IV is 1-1 / 2-2 / / , with control information TH.

2. The two-tone three-dimensional jacquard fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The press yarn Jacquard weave uses 0-1 / 3-2 / / as the basic backing yarn and includes color zones 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6. The front Jacquard control information for color zones 1, 2, and 3 is HHTT, the front Jacquard control information for color zones 4, 5, and 6 is TTHH, and the rear Jacquard control information for color zones 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 is HH, HT, TH, HT, TH, TT, respectively.

3. The two-tone three-dimensional jacquard fabric according to claim 2, characterized in that: The front Jacquard structure and the weft Jacquard structure used in the pressing yarn and the weft Jacquard structure have a configuration relationship with the single yarns used. The single yarn structures are 1-2 / 3-3 / / , 1-1 / 2-2 / / , 1-1 / 4-3 / / , and 1-1 / 2-2 / / , respectively. The deviation information corresponding to the single yarn structures are TTHT, THHT, THTT, and THHT.

4. The two-tone three-dimensional jacquard fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The combing and warp configuration of the jacquard fabric is as follows: (1) Front Jacquard comb JB1.1: 0-1 / 3-2 / / ; Full wear; (2) Ground comb GB2: 1-0 / 0-1 / / ; Full wear; (3) Later Jakka comb JB3: 0-0 / 2-2 / / ; Full wear; (4) Spandex comb GB4: 0-0 / 1-1 / / ; full wear.

5. A process for fabricating a two-tone three-dimensional jacquard fabric, characterized in that: The fabric fabric with two-color three-dimensional jacquard pattern as described in claim 1 is manufactured using the following process: (1) Width parameter setting: RJWB4 / 2F floating knitting machine is used, the total number of needles is 3120, the width of the jacquard pattern is 204, 15 complete jacquard pattern cycles are knitted, and the number of needles at the head and tail of the fabric edge is 30 each. (2) Warping process, full-thread ground comb GB2 and spandex comb GB4, each comb uses 3120 yarns, using 6 21"×21" heads, each head has 520 yarns; front Jacquard comb JB1.1 and rear Jacquard comb JB3 use yarn frame feeding, the rear Jacquard comb JB3 has 3120 yarn bobbins, and the front Jacquard comb JB1.1 has 1560 yarn bobbins; (3) Finishing, including the following process flow: washing → pre-setting → dyeing → drying → secondary setting; The initial setting temperature is 185℃~190℃, and the setting time lasts for 1 minute; the secondary setting temperature is 130℃; methyl acid dye is used for dyeing, and the dyeing temperature is 95℃~100℃.

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