Composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising: (i) at least one structuring agent selected from saturated C14-C22 fatty acids; (ii) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent; (iii) at least one surfactant different from a saturated C14 to C22 fatty acid; (iv) at least one humectant selected from the group consisting of optionally acetylated hyaluronic acids and salts thereof; (v) at least 12% by weight, relative to the total weight, of at least one C-glycoside. The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for and / or making up a keratin material, comprising applying said composition to a keratin material.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions. In particular, the present invention relates to compositions for the care and / or make-up of keratin materials. The present invention also relates to non-therapeutic methods for the care and / or make-up of keratin materials. Background Art

[0002] The skin is the body's protective barrier. It protects the body's interior from physical damage (such as trauma) and biological damage (such as bacteria, viruses or fungi).

[0003] The development of preparations dedicated to the care and / or make-up of the skin and / or lips is permanent.

[0004] For example, efforts have been made to formulate compositions in the form of creams or lotions.

[0005] As a commercial product, it is desirable that the product be stable at room temperature and even at elevated temperatures (eg, above 55°C).

[0006] Humectants are often incorporated into cosmetic products, in particular hygroscopic substances which act by capturing atmospheric water and causing rehydration of the skin by retaining water in the skin.

[0007] Hyaluronic acid (HA) and its salts are commonly used as moisturizers in cosmetic products.

[0008] However, for some emulsions such as water-in-oil emulsions or oil-in-water emulsions containing hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof, phase separation easily occurs and there will be water leakage or oil leakage.

[0009] Therefore, there is a need to formulate compositions for caring for and / or making up the skin comprising at least one moisturizer which are stable at room temperature (eg 25° C.) immediately after their preparation and at relatively high temperatures (eg 55° C.). SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

[0011] The inventors have now found that it is possible to formulate such compositions which are stable at room temperature (eg 25°C) immediately after their preparation and stable at relatively high temperatures (eg 55°C) for at least one week.

[0012] Thus, in a first aspect, the present invention provides a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising:

[0013] (i) at least one structuring agent selected from saturated C14-C22 fatty acids;

[0014] (ii) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent;

[0015] (iii) at least one surfactant other than a saturated C14-C22 fatty acid;

[0016] (iv) at least one humectant selected from optionally acetylated hyaluronic acid and salts thereof; and

[0017] (v) at least 12% by weight, relative to the total weight, of at least one C-glycoside selected from the group consisting of compounds of formula (I), and their physiologically acceptable salts, their solvates (e.g. hydrates), and their optical isomers and geometric isomers:

[0018]

[0019] in:

[0020] -R stands for saturated C 1 -C 10 Hydrocarbon groups, especially saturated C 1 -C 4 A hydrocarbon group, which may be optionally substituted by at least one selected from OH, COOH or COOR" 2 substituted by a group, wherein R" 2 It is saturated C 1 -C 4 Hydrocarbon,

[0021] -S represents a monosaccharide or polysaccharide containing up to 20 saccharide units, in particular up to 6 saccharide units, in the pyranose and / or furanose form and of the L and / or D series, which may be substituted by necessarily free hydroxyl groups and optionally by one or more optionally protected amine functions, and

[0022] -X represents a group selected from the following groups: -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH 2 )-、-CH(NHCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH)-, -CH(NHPh)-, and –CH(CH 3 )-, and in particular -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH 2 )- group, and more particularly a -CH(OH)- group,

[0023] S-CH 2 The -X bond represents a bond of C-anomer isomeric nature, which may be alpha or beta.

[0024] The composition of the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. Thus, the composition comprises a continuous aqueous phase and a dispersed fatty phase.

[0025] The inventors have found that the composition of the present invention has a lamellar texture and is stable at room temperature (eg 25°C) immediately after its preparation and stable at relatively high temperatures (eg 55°C) for at least one week.

[0026] In a second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, which comprises applying to the keratin materials a composition according to the first aspect of the invention.

[0027] Other advantages of the invention will emerge more clearly on reading the following description and examples. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0029] By way of example only, implementations of the present invention will now be described with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which:

[0030] Figure 1 A polarizing microscope image of the composition obtained in Inventive Example 1 is shown. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0032] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art to which the invention belongs. When the definition of a term in this specification conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by those skilled in the art to which the invention belongs, the definition described in this article shall apply.

[0033] In the following text and unless otherwise indicated, the upper and lower limits of a numerical range are included in the range, especially in the expressions "between ... and ..." and "... to ...".

[0034] In addition, the expression "at least one" used in the present specification is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0035] Throughout this application, the term "comprising / includes" should be interpreted as covering all specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "comprising / includes" also discloses embodiments in which there are no features other than the specifically mentioned features (i.e., "consisting of ...").

[0036] Unless otherwise indicated, all numerical values ​​expressing quantities of ingredients and the like used in the specification and claims are to be understood as modified by the term “about.” Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values ​​and parameters described herein are approximations that can vary as necessary depending on the desired purpose.

[0037] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "keratin material" is intended to cover human skin, mucous membranes (eg lips). The facial skin is most particularly contemplated according to the present invention.

[0038] Unless otherwise indicated, all percentages in the present invention are by weight.

[0039] According to a first aspect, the invention provides a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising:

[0040] (i) at least one structuring agent selected from saturated C14-C22 fatty acids;

[0041] (ii) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent;

[0042] (iii) at least one surfactant other than a saturated C14-C22 fatty acid;

[0043] (iv) at least one humectant selected from optionally acetylated hyaluronic acid and salts thereof; and

[0044] (v) at least 12% by weight, relative to the total weight, of at least one C-glycoside.

[0045] Structuring agent

[0046] According to a first aspect, the composition of the invention comprises at least one structurant chosen from saturated C14-C22 fatty acids.

[0047] As examples of saturated C14-C22 fatty acids, mention may be made of myristic acid, pentadecanoic acid, palmitic acid, margaric acid, stearic acid, cetearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, and combinations thereof.

[0048] Preferably, the structurant is selected from saturated C14-C18 fatty acids.

[0049] More preferably, the structurant is selected from linear and saturated C14-C18 fatty acids.

[0050] Particularly preferably, the structurant is selected from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and combinations thereof.

[0051] Advantageously, the structurant is present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 30%, preferably from 1% to 20%, more preferably from 1.3% to 10%, most preferably from 1.3% to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0052] Hydrophilic gelling agent

[0053] According to a first aspect, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrophilic gelling agent.

[0054] Preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent is capable of swelling in water to form a microgel in the form of particles having a size of 50-400 μm.

[0055] Advantageously, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from alkali metal salts of acrylic acid homopolymers, modified starches and mixtures thereof.

[0056] Suitable homopolymers for the composition according to the invention are chosen in particular from sodium polyacrylate and potassium polyacrylate. Preference is given to using sodium polyacrylate.

[0057] The acrylic acid homopolymer may advantageously be neutralized to a degree ranging from 5% to 80%.

[0058] As sodium polyacrylate which can be used according to the invention, there can be used the polyacrylates sold by the company Cognis under the name Cosmedia Those sold or manufactured by BASF under the name Those sold by EM; by Sensient under the trade designation Covacryl MV or products sold by Cognis under the trade name Products for sale.

[0059] Modified starches suitable for use in the composition according to the invention are especially chosen from those derived from corn starch, rice starch, tapioca starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch, pea starch and mixtures thereof.

[0060] Among the modified starches, mention may be made of precooked starch, hydrolyzed starch, cross-linked starch (for example cross-linked with hydroxymethyl urea derivatives or with octenyl succinic anhydride or with epichlorohydrin), esterified starch, etherified starch, oxidized starch, refined starch, starch baked in the presence of acid, or grafted starch (for example grafted with sodium polyacrylate), coated starch (for example coated with amino acids) and / or mixtures thereof.

[0061] Among the modified starches particularly suitable for the present invention, mention may be made of:

[0062] - starches sold under the names Structure XL and Structure Zea (hydroxypropyl starch phosphate) by the company National Starch;

[0063] - starches sold under the names Sanfresh ST-100C, ST100MC, IM-300MC by the company Sanyo Chemical Industries (INCI name: sodium polyacrylate starch); and

[0064] - mixtures thereof.

[0065] Preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent is selected from sodium polyacrylate, potassium polyacrylate, sodium polyacrylate starch, sodium polyacrylate starch and mixtures thereof.

[0066] Advantageously, the hydrophilic gelling agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% to 5% by weight, most preferably from 0.3% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0067] Surfactants

[0068] According to a first aspect, the composition of the invention comprises at least one surfactant different from a saturated C14-C22 fatty acid.

[0069] Preferably, the surfactant is selected from:

[0070] - mono- and polyglycerol esters of fatty acids, or their ethoxylated derivatives;

[0071] - Esters of polyols with fatty acids having a saturated or unsaturated chain;

[0072] - Sorbitol esters of C8-C24 fatty acids and their polyoxyalkylene derivatives;

[0073] - esters of fatty acids with glucose or alkyl glucose, or their ethoxylated derivatives;

[0074] - sucrose esters;

[0075] - ethers of sugars with C8-C24 fatty alcohols, for example octyl / decyl glucoside;

[0076] - C14-C24 fatty alcohol;

[0077] - polyoxyethylene alkyl ether carboxylic acids, for example laureth-5 carboxylic acid;

[0078] - polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols containing 6 to 12 ethylene oxide units, for example laureth-9;

[0079] - polyoxyalkylenated derivatives of monoglycerides of fatty acids, for example PEG-20 triisostearate;

[0080] - Sarcosinates, for example sodium lauroyl sarcosinate;

[0081] - fatty acid esters of polyalkylene glycols; and

[0082] - mixtures thereof.

[0083] As (a) polyglycerol esters of fatty acids, there are mentioned products containing 2 to 10 glycerol units, for example polyglycerol monolaurate, polyglycerol oleate, polyglycerol myristate, polyglycerol caprylate or polyglycerol stearate containing 2 to 10 glycerol units; polyglycerol mono(iso)stearate containing 2 to 10 glycerol units; polyglycerol dioleate containing 2 to 10 glycerol units; polyglycerol dilaurate containing 2 to 10 glycerol units; polyglycerol dimyristate containing 2 to 10 glycerol units; polyglycerol trimyristate containing 2 to 10 glycerol units; polyglycerol trioleate containing 2 to 10 glycerol units; and polyglycerol tricaprylate containing 2 to 10 glycerol units.

[0084] Polyglycerol esters include polyglycerol esters of C16-C22 saturated, unsaturated and branched fatty acids, such as polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 oleate, polyglyceryl-2 oleate, polyglyceryl-2 sesquioleate, diisostearate triglyceride, monooleate diglyceride, monooleate tetraglyceride or mixtures thereof.

[0085] Monoglycerides include, but are not limited to, monoglycerides, preferably monoglycerides of C16-C22 saturated, unsaturated and branched fatty acids, such as olein, monostearin, monoisostearin, monopalmitin, monobehenin or mixtures thereof.

[0086] As monoglycerides of fatty acids, mention may be made of stearyl glycerides (monostearyl glyceride, distearic glyceride and / or tristearic glyceride) (CTFA name: stearyl glyceride) or ricinoleyl glyceride or mixtures thereof, or as polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, mention may be made of monoesters, diesters or triesters of fatty acids with polyoxyalkylenated glycerol (monoesters, diesters or triesters of fatty acids with polyalkylene glycol ethers of glycerol), preferably polyoxyethylenated stearyl glycerides (monostearates, distearic glycerides and / or tristearic esters), such as PEG-20 stearyl glycerides (monostearates, distearic glycerides, tristearic glycerides and / or triisostearic esters). Preferably, the polyoxyalkylenated derivatives of monoglycerides of fatty acids comprise from 10 to 40 ethylene oxide units, such as PEG-20 triisostearic glyceride.

[0087] The surfactant may be selected from esters of polyols with fatty acids having a saturated or unsaturated chain containing, for example, 8 to 24 carbon atoms (preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms), or polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, which preferably contain 10 to 200 oxyalkylene units, or more preferably 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units, such as mono- or polyglycerol esters of C8-C24 (preferably C12-C22) fatty acids, and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, which preferably contain 10 to 200 oxyalkylene units, or more preferably 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; C8-C24 (preferably C12-C22) fatty acids; 2) Sorbitol esters of fatty acids, or polyoxyalkylene derivatives thereof, which preferably contain 10 to 200 oxyalkylene units, or more preferably 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; sugar (sucrose, maltose, glucose, fructose and / or alkyl glucose) esters of C8-C24 (preferably C12-C22) fatty acids, or polyoxyalkylene derivatives thereof, which preferably contain 10 to 200 oxyalkylene units, or more preferably 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; ethers of fatty alcohols; ethers of sugars and one or more C8-C24 (preferably C12-C22) fatty alcohols; or mixtures thereof.

[0088] Mixtures of these surfactants may also be used, for example the product sold under the name ARLACEL 165 by CRODA containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate and the product sold under the name TEGIN by Goldschmidt containing glyceryl stearates (glyceryl monostearate and glyceryl distearate) and potassium stearate (CTFA name: Glyceryl Stearate SE).

[0089] The sorbitan esters of C8-C24 fatty acids and their polyoxyalkylenated derivatives may be chosen from sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan trioleate; and esters of fatty acids with alkoxylated sorbitans containing, for example, 20 to 100 EO, such as sorbitan monostearate sold under the name Span 60 by the company ICI (CTFA name: Sorbitan Stearate), sorbitan monopalmitate sold under the name Span 40 by the company ICI (CTFA name: Sorbitan Palmitate), or sorbitan tristearate 20 EO sold under the name Tween 65 by the company ICI (CTFA name: Polysorbate 65), polyethylene sorbitan trioleate (Polysorbate 85) or the compounds sold under the trade names Tween 20 or Tween 60 by Uniqema.

[0090] As esters of fatty acids with glucose or alkyl glucose, mention may be made of glucose palmitate; alkyl glucose sesquistearates, for example methyl glucose sesquistearate; alkyl glucose palmitates, for example methyl glucose palmitate or ethyl glucose palmitate; methyl glucoside fatty esters; the diester of methyl glucoside with oleic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose dioleate); the mixed ester of methyl glucoside with an oleic acid / hydroxystearic acid mixture (CTFA name: methyl glucose dioleate / hydroxystearate); the ester of methyl glucoside with isostearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose isostearate); the ester of methyl glucoside with lauric acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose laurate); the mixture of the mono- and diesters of methyl glucoside with isostearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose sesquiisostearate); the mixture of the mono- and diesters of methyl glucoside with stearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose sesquistearate), and in particular the product sold under the name Glucate SS by AMERCHOL; and mixtures thereof.

[0091] As ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids with glucose or alkyl glucose, mention may be made, for example, of ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids with methyl glucose, and in particular of polyethylene glycol ethers of diesters of methyl glucose with stearic acid, which contain approximately 20 mol of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate), for example the product sold under the name Glucam E-20 distearate by AMERCHOL; polyethylene glycol ethers of mixtures of mono- and diesters of methyl glucose with stearic acid, which contain approximately 20 mol of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate), and in particular of the product sold under the name Glucamate SSE-20 by AMERCHOL and the product sold under the name Grillocose PSE-20 by GOLDSCHMIDT; or mixtures thereof.

[0092] As sucrose esters, there may be mentioned, for example, sucrose palmitostearate, sucrose stearate and sucrose monolaurate.

[0093] As sugar ethers, alkyl polyglucosides can be used, and for example, sugars and C 8 -C 24Ethers of fatty alcohols, including decyl glucoside, for example the product sold under the name MYDOL 10 by Kao Chemicals, the product sold under the name PLANTAREN 2000 by Henkel, and the product sold under the name ORAMIX NS10 by Seppic; octyl / decyl glucoside, for example the product sold under the name ORAMIX CG 110 by Seppic or the product sold under the name LUTENSOL GD 70 by BASF; lauryl glucoside, for example the products sold under the names PLANTAREN 1200N and PLANTACARE 1200 by Henkel; cocoyl glucoside, for example the product sold under the name PLANTACARE 818 / UP by Henkel; cetearyl glucoside, possibly mixed with cetearyl alcohol, for example the product sold under the name MONTANOV 68 by Seppic, the product sold under the name TEGO-CARE CG90 by Goldschmidt and the product sold under the name EMULGADE by Henkel KE3302; arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture of arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside, sold under the name MONTANOV 202 by Seppic; cocoylethylglucoside, for example in the form of a mixture (35 / 65) with cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, sold under the name MONTANOV 82 by Seppic; or mixtures thereof.

[0094] As C14-C24 fatty alcohols, mention may be made of oleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, lignocerylic alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0095] Preferably, the fatty acid ester of polyalkylene glycol is an ester of polyethylene glycol containing 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups and a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid containing 12 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably, the fatty acid ester of polyalkylene glycol is selected from polyethylene glycol 2OE monostearate or polyethylene glycol 100 monostearate (PEG-100 stearate).

[0096] Most preferably, the surfactant is selected from mono- and polyglycerol esters of fatty acids, ethers of sugars and C8-C24 fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters of polyalkylene glycols, C14-C24 fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof.

[0097] Advantageously, the surfactant is chosen from glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, arachidyl glucoside and mixtures thereof.

[0098] Advantageously, the surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.2% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.4% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.8% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0099] Moisturizer

[0100] According to a first aspect, the composition of the invention comprises at least one humectant chosen from optionally acetylated hyaluronic acid and salts thereof.

[0101] Hyaluronic acid is a non-sulfated linear glycosaminoglycan composed of repeating units of D-glucuronic acid and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine.

[0102] The acetylated hyaluronic acid in the present invention means a derivative in which the hydroxyl group of hyaluronic acid has been at least partially acetylated.

[0103] Acetylated hyaluronic acid can be produced by any method known to those skilled in the art, for example, see JPH0853501; or for example under the name Hymagic TM Commercially available from Bloomage Biotechnology Corporation Limited.

[0104] The optionally acetylated hyaluronate may be selected from alkali metal salts, such as sodium and potassium salts; or other salts, such as zinc salts, silver salts; and mixtures thereof.

[0105] Thus, according to some embodiments, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one humectant chosen from hyaluronic acid, optionally acetylated, and its sodium, potassium, zinc and silver salts.

[0106] Preferably, the moisturizing agent selected from optionally acetylated hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof is one or more of a high molecular weight (HMW) or low molecular weight (LMW) optionally acetylated hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof.

[0107] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "LMW optionally acetylated hyaluronic acid" or a salt thereof means an optionally acetylated hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof having a weight average molecular weight of less than or equal to 60,000 Daltons.

[0108] In particular, the weight average molecular weight of the LMW optionally acetylated hyaluronic acid or salt thereof is less than or equal to 60,000 Daltons, preferably less than or equal to 50,000 Daltons, for example 10,000 to 60,000 Daltons, preferably 15,000 to 50,000 Daltons, more particularly 20,000 to 50,000 Daltons.

[0109] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises sodium hyaluronate, sold for example by GIVAUDA under the trade name RENOVHYAL.

[0110] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "HMW optionally acetylated hyaluronic acid" or a salt thereof has a weight average molecular weight of 80,000 Daltons to 1,500,000 Daltons, or 100,000 Daltons to 1,000,000 Daltons.

[0111] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises sodium hyaluronate, sold for example under the trade name SODIUM HYALURONATE (HA-T) by BLOOMAGE FREDABIOPHARM.

[0112] According to the invention, useful acetylated hyaluronic acid or its salt has an average molecular weight of 10,000 to 1,000,000 Daltons, preferably 20,000 to 50,000 Daltons, or preferably 30,000 to 50,000 Daltons. Advantageously, the acetylated hyaluronic acid or its salt has an acetyl substitution number of 2.5 to 4.0.

[0113] According to certain embodiments of the present invention, acetylated hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof is used in combination with hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof.

[0114] The optionally acetylated hyaluronic acid and / or its salt is introduced into the aqueous phase of the composition.

[0115] Preferably, the moisturizer is present in an amount ranging from 0.001 wt% to 10 wt%, preferably from 0.001 wt% to 5 wt%, more preferably from 0.001 wt% to 1 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0116] C-glycoside

[0117] According to a first aspect, the composition of the invention comprises at least one C-glycoside selected from compounds of formula (I), and their physiologically acceptable salts, their solvates, such as hydrates, and their optical isomers and geometric isomers:

[0118]

[0119] in:

[0120] -R stands for saturated C 1 -C 10 Hydrocarbon groups, especially saturated C 1 -C 4 A hydrocarbon group, which may be optionally substituted by at least one selected from OH, COOH or COOR" 2 substituted by a group, wherein R" 2 It is saturated C1 -C 4 Hydrocarbon,

[0121] -S represents a monosaccharide or polysaccharide containing up to 20 saccharide units, in particular up to 6 saccharide units, in the pyranose and / or furanose form and of the L and / or D series, which may be substituted by necessarily free hydroxyl groups and optionally by one or more optionally protected amine functions, and

[0122] -X represents a group selected from the following groups: -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH 2 )-、-CH(NHCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH)-, -CH(NHPh)-, and –CH(CH 3 )-, especially –CO-, -CH(OH)- or –CH(NH 2 )- group, more particularly a -CH(OH)- group,

[0123] S-CH 2 The -X bond represents a bond of C-anomer isomeric nature, which may be alpha or beta.

[0124] The C-glycosides useful in the practice of the present invention are particularly those wherein R represents a saturated linear C 1 To C 6 Hydrocarbon groups, especially saturated C 1 To C 4 Hydrocarbyl, preferably saturated C 1 To C 2 Those of hydrocarbon groups and more preferably methyl groups.

[0125] Among the alkyl radicals suitable for implementing the invention, mention may in particular be made of methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, n-propyl, n-butyl, tert-butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, pentyl, n-hexyl, cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl or cyclohexyl.

[0126] According to one embodiment of the invention, C-glycosides corresponding to formula (I) can be used, in which S can represent a monosaccharide or polysaccharide comprising up to 6 sugar units, in the pyranose and / or furanose form and of the L and / or D series, said monosaccharide or polysaccharide exhibiting at least one necessarily free hydroxyl function and / or optionally one or more necessarily protected amine functions, X and R otherwise retain all the definitions given above.

[0127] Advantageously, the monosaccharide according to the invention may be chosen from D-glucose, D-galactose, D-mannose, D-xylose, D-lyxose or L-fucose, L-arabinose, L-rhamnose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-iduronic acid, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or N-acetyl-D-galactosamine, and advantageously represents D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose.

[0128] More particularly, the polysaccharide of the invention comprising up to 6 saccharide units may be chosen from D-maltose, D-lactose, D-cellobiose, D-maltotriose; a disaccharide combining a uronic acid chosen from D-iduronic acid or D-glucuronic acid with a hexosamine chosen from D-galactosamine, D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-galactosamine or N-acetyl-D-glucosamine; an oligosaccharide comprising at least one xylose, which may advantageously be chosen from xylobiose, methyl-β-xylobiose, xylotriose, xylotetrose, xylopentaose and xylohexose and in particular xylobiose, which consists of two xylose molecules linked via a 1-4 bond.

[0129] More particularly, S may represent a monosaccharide selected from D-glucose, D-xylose, L-fucose, D-galactose or D-maltose, and in particular D-xylose.

[0130] Preferably, C-glycosides of formula (I) are used, wherein:

[0131] -R represents unsubstituted straight chain C 1 -C 4 (especially C 1 -C 2 ) alkyl, especially methyl;

[0132] -S represents a monosaccharide as described above and is particularly selected from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose;

[0133] -X represents a member selected from -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH 2 )- group, and preferably a -CH(OH)- group.

[0134] The acceptable salts of the compounds described in the present invention include conventional non-toxic salts of the compounds, such as those formed by organic or inorganic acids. By way of example, salts of inorganic acids (e.g., sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid) may be mentioned. Salts of organic acids that may contain one or more carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid or phosphonic acid groups may also be mentioned. In particular, propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid may be mentioned.

[0135] When the compound of formula (I) contains an acid group, the acid group can be neutralized with an inorganic base or an organic base, such as LiOH, NaOH, KOH, Ca(OH) 2 NH 4 OH, Mg(OH) 2 or Zn(OH) 2 , the organic base is, for example, a primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine, such as triethylamine or butylamine. The primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine may contain one or more nitrogen atoms and / or oxygen atoms and may therefore contain, for example, one or more alcohol functions; mention may be made in particular of 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, triethanolamine, 2-(dimethylamino)propanol or 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-1,3-propanediol. Mention may also be made of lysine or 3-(dimethylamino)propylamine.

[0136] The acceptable solvates of the compounds described in the present invention include conventional solvates, such as those formed due to the presence of solvents during the final stages of preparing the compounds. By way of example, solvates due to the presence of water or linear alcohols or branched alcohols (such as ethanol or isopropanol) can be mentioned.

[0137] Of course, according to the invention, the C-glycosides corresponding to formula (I) can be used alone or as a mixture with other C-glycosides and in any proportions.

[0138] The C-glycosides suitable for the present invention can be obtained in particular by the synthesis method described in document WO 02 / 051828.

[0139] By way of non-limiting illustration of C-glycoside compounds particularly suitable for the present invention, mention may in particular be made of the following compounds, their isomers and their mixtures:

[0140] -C-β-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,

[0141] -C-α-D-xylopyranosyl-n-propan-2-one,

[0142] -C-β-D-xylopyranosyl-2-hydroxypropane,

[0143] -C-α-D-xylopyranosyl-2-hydroxypropane,

[0144] -1-(C-β-D-fucopyranosyl)propan-2-one,

[0145] -1-(C-α-D-fucopyranosyl)propan-2-one,

[0146] -1-(C-β-L-fucopyranosyl)propan-2-one,

[0147] -1-(C-α-L-fucopyranosyl)propan-2-one,

[0148] -1-(C-β-D-fucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0149] -1-(C-α-D-fucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0150] -1-(C-β-L-fucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0151] -1-(C-α-L-fucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0152] -1-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0153] -1-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0154] -1-(C-β-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0155] -1-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0156] -1-(C-β-D-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one,

[0157] -1-(C-α-D-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one,

[0158] -1-(C-β-L-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one,

[0159] -1-(C-α-L-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one,

[0160] -C-β-D-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,

[0161] -C-α-D-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,

[0162] -C-β-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,

[0163] -C-α-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane.

[0164] According to one embodiment, C-β-D-xylopyranosyl-2-hydroxypropane or C-α-D-xylopyranosyl-2-hydroxypropane and still better C-β-D-xylopyranosyl-2-hydroxypropane can advantageously be used for the preparation of the composition according to the invention.

[0165] According to a particular embodiment, the C-glycoside may be C-β-D-xylopyranosyl-2-hydroxypropane (or hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol) provided as a solution containing 75% by weight of active material in water and propylene glycol.

[0166] Advantageously, the C-glycoside is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 11% to 20% by weight, preferably from 12% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0167] Saponifier

[0168] Preferably, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one saponifying agent.

[0169] Saponifying agents can be used to react with saturated C14-C22 fatty acids to produce salts.

[0170] The saponifying agent may be, for example, an inorganic base such as an alkali metal hydroxide (e.g., sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide), an alkaline earth metal hydroxide (e.g., magnesium hydroxide) or ammonium hydroxide; or an organic base such as monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, tromethamine, N-methylglucamine, arginine, lysine and arginine.

[0171] Mention may also be made of sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate and potassium bicarbonate.

[0172] Preferably, the saponifying agent is selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, tromethamine, N-methylglucamine, arginine, lysine, arginine, and combinations thereof.

[0173] If present, advantageously the molar ratio of saponifier to structurant selected from saturated C14-C22 fatty acids is from 15% to 50%.

[0174] Water Phase

[0175] As oil-in-water emulsions, the cosmetic compositions of the present invention comprise a continuous aqueous phase.

[0176] The aqueous phase comprises water.

[0177] Preferably, the continuous aqueous phase comprises an organic solvent miscible with water (at room temperature 25° C.), such as glycerol; and a diol having 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; and mixtures thereof.

[0178] Advantageously, the aqueous phase is present in an amount ranging from 30% to 95% by weight, preferably from 35% to 90% by weight and more preferably from 40% to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0179] Fat phase

[0180] As oil-in-water emulsions, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one dispersed fatty phase.

[0181] The fatty phase comprises at least one oil.

[0182] Oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0183] The term "oil" means a water-immiscible, non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The term "non-volatile oil" means a non-volatile oil that can remain on keratin materials for at least several hours at room temperature and atmospheric pressure and that has a specific viscosity of less than 10 -3 Non-volatile oils may also be defined as having an evaporation rate such that, under the conditions defined above, the amount evaporated after 30 minutes is less than 0.07 mg / cm 2 .

[0184] These oils may be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

[0185] The oil may be selected from hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils or fluorinated oils.

[0186] The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil which is essentially formed or even consists of carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms and optionally O atoms and N atoms and is free of heteroatoms Si and F. Such oils may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

[0187] The term "silicone oil" denotes an oil containing at least one silicon atom, especially containing Si-O groups.

[0188] The term "fluorinated oil" means an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.

[0189] Preferably, the oil is chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils such as isohexadecane, squalane, caprylic / capric triglyceride, isononyl isononanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, myristyl myristate; and silicone oils such as dimethicone.

[0190] The fatty phase may also comprise non-oil fatty substances such as butterfat and waxes, for example shea butter (butyrospermum parkii), white wax (Cera alba) and beeswax, in order to build texture and provide a suitable skin finish.

[0191] Advantageously, the fatty phase is present in an amount ranging from 2% to 40% by weight, preferably from 5% to 35% by weight, more preferably from 7% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention.

[0192] Cosmetic Active Ingredients

[0193] The compositions according to the invention may comprise one or more cosmetically active ingredients.

[0194] As examples of cosmetic active ingredients, mention may be made of natural extracts; vitamins, such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide) and derivatives (especially esters) of the said vitamins, and mixtures thereof; urea; caffeine; salicylic acid and its derivatives; alpha-hydroxy acids, such as lactic acid or glycolic acid and their derivatives; sunscreens; extracts from algae, fungi, plants, yeasts and bacteria; enzymes; other moisturizers, such as hydroxyethyl urea; agents acting on the microcirculation; and mixtures thereof.

[0195] A person skilled in the art can easily adjust the amount of additional cosmetic active ingredients based on the final use of the composition according to the invention.

[0196] Additional auxiliaries or additives

[0197] The composition of the present invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, such as fragrances, preservatives (such as chlorphenesin and phenoxyethanol) and bactericides, pH adjusters (such as citric acid), thickeners (such as xanthan gum), and mixtures thereof.

[0198] A person skilled in the art can select the amount of additional auxiliaries or additives so as not to adversely affect the end use of the composition according to the invention.

[0199] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the invention provides a composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0200] (i) 1.3% to 4% by weight of at least one structuring agent selected from linear and saturated C14-C18 fatty acids;

[0201] (ii) 0.3% to 2% by weight of at least one hydrophilic gelling agent selected from alkali metal salts of acrylic acid homopolymers, modified starches, and mixtures thereof;

[0202] (iii) 0.8 to 12 wt% of at least one surfactant selected from mono- and polyglycerol esters of fatty acids, ethers of sugars and C8-C24 fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters of polyalkylene glycols, C14-C24 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof;

[0203] (iv) 0.001% to 1% by weight of at least one humectant selected from optionally acetylated hyaluronic acid and salts thereof; and

[0204] (iv) 12 to 15 wt% of at least one C-glycoside selected from C-β-D-xylopyranosyl-2-hydroxypropane or C-α-D-xylopyranosyl-2-hydroxypropane and combinations thereof.

[0205] Galenic form and method

[0206] The compositions of the present invention are in the form of oil-in-water emulsions.

[0207] The composition according to the invention has a lamellar texture.

[0208] The term "lamellar" refers to a liquid crystal structure, or a crystalline lamellar hydrated phase, either swollen or non-swollen, having a planar symmetry comprising several amphiphilic bilayers arranged in parallel and separated by a liquid medium.

[0209] The composition of the invention may, for example, be a cream.

[0210] The composition of the present invention can be used for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, for example, it can be used as a foundation cream, hand cream, body cream, etc.

[0211] According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, which comprises applying to the keratin materials a composition according to the first aspect of the invention.

[0212] The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention but are non-limiting in nature. Example

[0213] The main raw materials used, their trade names and suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0214] Table 1

[0215]

[0216] Inventive Examples 1-4 and Comparative Examples 1-4

[0217] The compositions of Inventive Examples (IE.) 1-4 and Comparative Examples (CE.) 1-4 were prepared according to the amounts given in Tables 2 and 3. The amount of each component is given as % by weight of the total weight of the composition containing it.

[0218] Table 2

[0219]

[0220] Table 3

[0221]

[0222] Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate 1) : Contains 50 wt% glyceryl stearate and 50 wt% PEG-100 stearate.

[0223] Arachidyl Alcohol (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Arachidyl Glucoside 2) : Contains 55% by weight of arachidyl alcohol, 30% by weight of behenyl alcohol and 15% by weight of arachidyl glucoside.

[0224] Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol 3) It is hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol in water and propylene glycol at a content of 70% by weight relative to the total weight of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, water and propylene glycol.

[0225] The compositions of Inventive Examples 1 to 4 are compositions according to the present invention.

[0226] The compositions of Comparative Examples 1-3 did not contain C-glycoside.

[0227] Relative to the total weight of the composition of Comparative Example 4, the composition comprises less than 12 wt% C-glycoside.

[0228] Preparation method:

[0229] Taking the composition of Inventive Example 3 as an example, the composition listed above was prepared as follows:

[0230] 1. Weigh the ingredients for phase A into a container and mix to obtain a transparent mixture, then stir at 75°C at a stirring rate of 500 rpm until a light yellow transparent liquid is obtained;

[0231] 2. Heat the phase B premix at 85°C, then add it to the pale yellow transparent liquid at 75°C with a stirring rate of 1500 rpm and mix for 10 minutes to obtain a white emulsion;

[0232] 3. Add the phase C1 premix at 75°C with a stirring rate of 1500 rpm to obtain a white emulsion;

[0233] 4. Add phase C2 at 75°C with a stirring rate of 1500 rpm to obtain a white emulsion;

[0234] 5. Add phase E at 75°C with a stirring rate of 1500 rpm to obtain a white thin cream, and then cool to room temperature with stirring to obtain a composition.

[0235] Evaluate

[0236] Layered texture

[0237] Whether a layered texture was formed was evaluated as follows.

[0238] The compositions were observed using a Leica DLMB microscope under 90° cross-polarized light, and microscopic photographs were taken.

[0239] Figure 1 A polarizing microscope image of the composition obtained in Inventive Example 1 is shown.

[0240] Similar photographs were also obtained for the composition of Inventive Example 2-4 (IE.2-4).

[0241] It can be seen that a layered texture is formed in the composition of Inventive Example 1-4 (IE.1-4).

[0242] Similar photographs were not obtained for the compositions of Comparative Examples 1-3 (CE.1-3).

[0243] Similar photographs were obtained for the composition of Comparative Example 4 (CE.4).

[0244] stability

[0245] Stability was assessed as follows.

[0246] The appearance of each composition prepared above was observed at room temperature (25° C.) immediately after its preparation and when stored at 55° C. for 1 week.

[0247] If there is water leakage at room temperature (25°C) immediately after the composition is prepared, the composition is unstable. If there is oil leakage when stored at 55°C for 1 week, the composition is unstable, and if there is only a little oil leakage, the composition has acceptable stability.

[0248] If there is no water leakage at room temperature (25° C.) immediately after the composition is prepared, and no oil leakage when stored at 55° C. for 1 week, it has excellent stability.

[0249] The results of the lamellar texture and stability of each composition prepared above are summarized in Table 4.

[0250] Table 4

[0251]

[0252] RT T0*: immediately after preparation of the composition to be tested.

[0253] 55℃T1W**: When stored at 55℃ for 1 week.

[0254] NA: Not assessed.

[0255] As can be seen from Table 3, the compositions of Inventive Examples 1 to 4 have a layered texture and are stable.

Claims

1. A composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising: (i) at least one structuring agent selected from saturated C14-C22 fatty acids; (ii) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent; (iii) at least one surfactant other than a saturated C14-C22 fatty acid; (iv) at least one humectant selected from optionally acetylated hyaluronic acid and salts thereof; and (v) at least 12% by weight, relative to the total weight, of at least one C-glycoside selected from the group consisting of compounds of formula (I), and their physiologically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates, and their optical isomers and geometric isomers: in: -R represents saturated C1-C 10 a hydrocarbon group, in particular a saturated C1-C4 hydrocarbon group, which may be optionally substituted by at least one group selected from OH, COOH or COOR"2, wherein R"2 is a saturated C1-C4 hydrocarbon group, -S represents a monosaccharide or polysaccharide containing up to 20 saccharide units, in particular up to 6 saccharide units, in the pyranose and / or furanose form and of the L and / or D series, which may be substituted by necessarily free hydroxyl groups and optionally by one or more optionally protected amine functions, and -X represents a group selected from the group consisting of -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-, -CH(NHCH2CH2CH2OH)-, -CH(NHPh)- and -CH(CH3)-, and in particular a -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2)- group, and more particularly a -CH(OH)- group, The S-CH2-X bond represents a bond of C-anomer isomeric nature, which may be alpha or beta.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the structurant is selected from linear and saturated C14-C18 fatty acids, preferably, the structurant is selected from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and combinations thereof.

3. A composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the structuring agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.5 wt% to 30 wt%, preferably from 1 wt% to 20 wt%, more preferably from 1.3 wt% to 10 wt%, most preferably from 1.3 wt% to 4 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the hydrophilic gelling agent is selected from alkali metal salts of acrylic acid homopolymers, modified starches and mixtures thereof.

5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the hydrophilic gelling agent is selected from sodium polyacrylate, potassium polyacrylate, sodium polyacrylate starch, sodium polyacrylate starch and mixtures thereof.

6. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the hydrophilic gelling agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt.% to 10 wt.%, preferably from 0.2 wt.% to 8 wt.%, more preferably from 0.3 wt.% to 5 wt.%, most preferably from 0.3 wt.% to 2 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the surfactant is selected from: - mono- and polyglycerol esters of fatty acids, or their ethoxylated derivatives; - Esters of polyols with fatty acids having a saturated or unsaturated chain; - Sorbitol esters of C8-C24 fatty acids and their polyoxyalkylene derivatives; - esters of fatty acids with glucose or alkyl glucose, or their ethoxylated derivatives; - sucrose esters; - ethers of sugars with C8-C24 fatty alcohols, for example octyl / decyl glucoside; - C14-C24 fatty alcohol; - polyoxyethylene alkyl ether carboxylic acids, for example laureth-5 carboxylic acid; - polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols containing 6 to 12 ethylene oxide units, for example laureth-9; - polyoxyalkylenated derivatives of monoglycerides of fatty acids, for example PEG-20 triisostearate, - Sarcosinates, for example sodium lauroyl sarcosinate; - fatty acid esters of polyalkylene glycols; and - mixtures thereof.

8. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.2% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.4% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.8% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the humectant is selected from optionally acetylated hyaluronic acid, its sodium, potassium, zinc and silver salts.

10. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the humectant is present in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.001% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the C-glycoside is selected from: -C-β-D-xylopyranosyl-n-propan-2-one, -C-α-D-xylopyranosyl-n-propan-2-one, -C-β-D-xylopyranosyl-2-hydroxypropane, -C-α-D-xylopyranosyl-2-hydroxypropane, -1-(C-β-D-fucopyranosyl)propan-2-one, -1-(C-α-D-fucopyranosyl)propan-2-one, -1-(C-β-L-fucopyranosyl)propan-2-one, -1-(C-α-L-fucopyranosyl)propan-2-one, -1-(C-β-D-fucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, -1-(C-α-D-fucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, -1-(C-β-L-fucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, -1-(C-α-L-fucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, -1-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, -1-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, -1-(C-β-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, -1-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, -1-(C-β-D-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, -1-(C-α-D-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, -1-(C-β-L-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, -1-(C-α-L-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, -C-β-D-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, -C-α-D-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, -C-β-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, -C-α-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, their isomers and mixtures thereof.

12. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein the C-glycoside is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 11 to 20 wt. %, preferably from 12 to 15 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 12, further comprising a saponifying agent selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, tromethamine, N-methylglucamine, arginine, lysine, arginine, and combinations thereof.

14. The composition of claim 13, wherein the molar ratio of the saponifier to the structurant selected from saturated C14-C22 fatty acids is from 15% to 50%.

15. The composition according to claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: (i) 1.3% to 4% by weight of at least one structuring agent selected from linear and saturated C14-C18 fatty acids; (ii) 0.3% to 2% by weight of at least one hydrophilic gelling agent selected from alkali metal salts of acrylic acid homopolymers, modified starches, and mixtures thereof; (iii) 0.8 to 12 wt% of at least one surfactant selected from mono- and polyglycerol esters of fatty acids, ethers of sugars and C8-C24 fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters of polyalkylene glycols, C14-C24 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof; and (iv) 12 to 15 wt% of at least one C-glycoside selected from C-β-D-xylopyranosyl-2-hydroxypropane or C-α-D-xylopyranosyl-2-hydroxypropane and combinations thereof.

16. Non-therapeutic method for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising applying to said keratin materials a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15.

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