Compositions comprising polymers

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition suitable for cosmetic applications, in particular for hair styling or skin care purposes, comprising at least two of the components konjac gum, xanthan gum and algin, the weight ratio of these components being within specified ranges. Furthermore, the invention relates to a feedstock composition consisting of at least two of the components, said feedstock composition being useful for the preparation of a composition according to the invention. Furthermore, the present invention relates to the use of this composition for styling the hair or for skin care.

Description

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition suitable for cosmetic applications, in particular for hair styling or skin care purposes, comprising at least two of the components konjac gum, xanthan gum and alginate, wherein the weight ratio of these components is within a specified range. In addition, the present invention relates to a raw material composition consisting of at least two of the components, wherein the raw material composition can be used to prepare a composition according to the present invention. In addition, the present invention relates to the use of the composition for hair styling or for skin care.

[0002] In this document, konjac gum and glucomannan are used synonymously, both abbreviated as Glu or K. Algin is abbreviated as Alg or A, and xanthan gum is abbreviated as Xan or X.

[0003] Sustainability and natural aspects are gaining more and more importance in the cosmetics industry. The discussion around microplastics has a strong impact on this. The need to offer sustainable products is therefore a major market demand. This poses challenges for cosmetic formulations, where polymers play an important role in thickening and stabilization or texture of the formulation.

[0004] For these reasons, synthetic polymers are widely used in cosmetic formulations. The texture of synthetic polymers is well known and preferred by consumers. Natural alternatives to these synthetic polymers can be natural biopolymers obtained from plants. These polymers have advantages in terms of naturalness, but they lack in formulation performance. One of the main drawbacks seen by consumers is the texture of the product, which is usually either thin or watery.

[0005] Challenges of formulating with biopolymers need to be overcome. An attractive, soft and good texture needs to be achieved without sacrificing other target performance parameters.

[0006] An online publication on the IP.com platform with IPCOM000268678D discloses a hair styling mousse with natural polymers. A formulation comprising xanthan gum and alginate is disclosed.

[0007] The problem behind the present invention is to provide a composition suitable for cosmetic applications, wherein the composition should have an acceptable texture (texture as defined in more detail in this document), i.e. a texture which is considered to be better than the texture provided by xanthan gum. Furthermore, preferably, when the composition is used as a hair styling formulation, the composition should have good hair styling properties, i.e. should provide high bending stiffness, high curl retention and low flaking.

[0008] This problem is solved by a composition according to claim 1 of this document. This composition is the subject of the present invention.

[0009] Another subject of the present invention is a raw material composition according to claim 2 of this document. The raw material composition consists of two or three components as defined in the claims of this document. In this context, consisting of means that no other substances are present in large quantities. However, the term consisting of does not exclude the presence of impurities or residual moisture.

[0010] A further subject matter of the invention is the use according to claim 7 and claim 8 of this document.

[0011] A further subject matter of the invention is a method according to claim 9 and claim 10 of this document.

[0012] Particular embodiments of the invention are subject matter of the dependent claims.

[0013] The claims of this document refer to the drawings of this document (i.e. Figures 9 to 12 ) to define the claimed subject matter. It is possible to define the claimed subject matter without reference to the drawings, but it is less accurate. This can be done by approximating the shaded surfaces of the drawings with polygons. This is described in detail in the section describing the drawings of this document.

[0014] Suitable additional cosmetically acceptable ingredients may be any cosmetically acceptable ingredients. These ingredients are known to those skilled in the art and can be found in a variety of publications, for example, the latest edition of the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook" published by the Personal Care Products Council. Another well-known source of additional suitable cosmetically acceptable ingredients is the cosmetic ingredient database CosIng. CosIng can be accessed at the European Commission's webpage.

[0015] In the following paragraphs, the term "polymer mixture" is used as a synonym for the mixture of components in the composition according to the invention (eg konjac gum plus xanthan gum plus alginate).

[0016] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises a polymer mixture having a total polymer content of 0.5 to 5% by weight.

[0017] Suitable additional cosmetically acceptable ingredients may be selected from the group consisting of preservatives, humectants, neutralizers, calcium salts, emollients, emulsifiers, fragrances and actives, plasticizers, glycerin, sodium benzoate, citric acid, calcium chloride, conditioning agents, and combinations thereof.

[0018] Suitable additional cosmetically acceptable ingredients may be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, sodium benzoate, citric acid, calcium chloride, and combinations thereof.

[0019] The polymer mixture according to the present invention can be included in the composition according to the present invention, which can be a gel, a cream gel or a cosmetic formulation of any texture, and the concentration of the polymer mixture is typically 0.2 to 5% by weight. The composition according to the present invention can further include a neutralizer, and its amount is typically such that the pH of the composition (e.g., gel) is pH=4.0 to 7.5. The neutralizer can be a carboxylic acid, such as lactic acid or another alpha hydroxy acid, such as malic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid. The composition according to the present invention can further include a humectant, for example, panthenol, glycerol or propylene glycol, and its concentration is typically 0.0 to 10.0% by weight. The composition according to the present invention can include a polymer selected from a cationic charged polymer or a cationic surfactant, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, and its concentration is typically 0.01 to 2.0% by weight. The composition according to the present invention can further include a solubilizer, for example, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil or lauryl glucoside, and its concentration is typically 0.2 to 1.0% by weight. Compositions according to the present invention may further include preservatives, such as phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin and benzoic acid, typically in a concentration of 0.1 to 1.0 weight %. Compositions according to the present invention may include emollients, typically in a concentration of 0.2-10 weight %. Compositions according to the present invention may also include waxes and other consistency agents, typically in a concentration of 0.1-5 weight %, or additional emulsifiers, typically in a concentration of 0.05 to 5.0 weight %. Compositions according to the present invention may also include active substances, such as proteins and derivatives thereof and plant extracts, typically in a concentration of 0.1-2 weight %.

[0020] The composition according to the invention may have the following composition in % by weight (abbreviations as explained in the experimental part): 1.35% Glu and 0.15% Alg - or 1.00% Glu and 1.00% Alg - or 0.75% Glu and 0.75% Alg - or 0.14% Glu and 1.31% Alg and 0.05% Xan - or 0.38% Glu and 1.11% Alg and 0.02% Xan - or 1.20% Glu and 0.28% Alg and 0.02% Xan, and in each case 3.00% glycerol and 0.01% calcium chloride and 0.50% sodium benzoate and 0.09% citric acid and 0.30% fragrance, the remainder being water.

[0021] Examples

[0022] In this experimental part and in all other parts of this document, % means % by weight, unless otherwise specified.

[0023] Ternary systems consisting of combinations of three different bio-based polymers were tested to determine the range of ternary systems having advantageous properties for cosmetic applications, in particular for hair styling applications.

[0024] The following ternary systems were tested:

[0025] Konjac gum, xanthan gum and alginate

[0026] The following commercially available products available from BASF SE, Germany were used and the following abbreviations are used in this document:

[0027] Konjac Gum (Glu) Glucomannan

[0028] Xanthan gum (Xan) Xanthan

[0029] ·Algin (Alg) Alginate

[0030] The following properties of these ternary systems were tested:

[0031] ·texture

[0032] Bending stiffness

[0033] Spalling (including number of fragments, particle size and area fraction)

[0034] Curl retention

[0035] Testing of these four properties resulted in six determined parameters, namely three parameters characterizing spalling (number of fragments, particle size, and area fraction), one parameter for texture, one parameter for bending stiffness, and one parameter for curl retention.

[0036] To test the properties of the ternary system, a Design of Experiments (DoE) approach was used, which is described in more detail in the following paragraphs.

[0037] To conduct experiments on mixtures of three polymers A, B and C, a Design of Experiments (DoE) was used. The software available from Minitab Inc. 20.3 DoE was performed. To create the experimental diagram, a simplex matrix was selected for two to ten components. The measurement points in the simplex matrix are evenly distributed in a triangular diagram, including one measurement point with an equal amount of each polymer located in the center of the diagram. In the present case, there are three components, which are ternary polymers - three polymers of the mixture.

[0038] The experimental graph, arranged in a triangular diagram, includes 19 measurement points, where the amount of each polymer in each mixture is varied. 20.3 requires input at these 19 measurement points. These 19 measurement points are located at the following positions within the triangle diagram:

[0039] Three measurement points at the corners of a triangular graph (indicating pure polymer)

[0040] Nine measurement points lie on the line of the triangular graph and therefore represent a mixture of two polymers

[0041] One measurement point is in the center of the triangle plot, representing a mixture of three polymers, where all three polymers are present in equal amounts

[0042] The six measuring points are arranged symmetrically around the center point.

[0043] The experimental plans were provided to the experimenters in a random manner without any replication.

[0044] After the test is completed (i.e. after the four characteristics to be tested have been determined at each of the 19 measurement points) and the corresponding results are obtained, use 20.3 Fit the experimental data to the best mathematical model available for each of the six parameters. For each parameter, select the following mathematical model to best describe the results.

[0045] Linear model: characteristic = c 1 *A+c 2 *B+c 3 *C

[0046] Quadratic model: characteristic = c 4 (A*B)+c 5 (A*C)+c 6 (B*C)

[0047] ·Specific cubic model: Characteristics = c7(A*B*C)

[0048] Full cubic model: characteristic = c 8 [A*B(AB)]+c 9 [AC(AC)]+c 10 [B*C(BC])

[0049] · Specific quartic model: characteristic = c 11 (A*A*B*C)+c 12 (A*B*B*C)+c 13 (A*B*C*C)

[0050] Full quartic model: characteristic = c 14 (A*B*(AB)2 )+c 15 (A*C*(AC) 2 )+c 16 (B*C*(BC) 2 )

[0051] (c 1 、c 2 , ……c 16 = Coefficients come from data modeling; if the coefficient is zero, the term is not applicable)

[0052] use 20.3 The participants can also select a combination of different models. In order to select the best mathematical model for each property of each ternary system, the p-value of each model must not be higher than 0.05. In addition, R 2 Value must be above 65%.

[0053] The meaning of p-value is well known in the art. The p-value is used to determine whether a certain pattern of measurement results is statistically significant. If the p-value is 0.05 or lower, the result is significant. If the p-value is higher than 0.05, the model is not statistically significant and therefore may result in overfitting. In this case, the coefficients (c 1 、c 2 , ……c 16 ) is set to zero.

[0054] R 2 The meaning of the values ​​is well known in the art. 2 The value is a statistical measure of fit that indicates how much of the variation in the dependent variable is explained by the independent variables in the regression model. 2 If θ is equal to 100%, then the experimental data and the mathematical model are exactly the same, but this is not the case. According to our experience, values ​​of 65% or higher give reliable models.

[0055] If this is not the case (the p value is not above 0.05 and R 2 If the model had a value higher than 65%, two or three models were compared with each other and the PRESS value and R 2 (prediction) values ​​to decide the better model.

[0056] PRESS (a parameter well known in the art) means "Prediction Residual Sum of Squares". The fit of the model is demonstrated by using observations that were not used to estimate the model. The lower the value, the better the predictive power of the mathematical model.

[0057] R 2 (prediction) is a parameter well known in the art. To calculate R 2(Prediction), systematically remove each measurement point from the data set, estimate the regression equation, and determine how well the model predicts the removed measurement points. If the model is overfitted, then R 2 (Forecast) Lower.

[0058] By performing the described DoE experiments and modeling, it is possible to determine in which regions of a ternary diagram (schematic diagram) representing the composition of the tested ternary polymer system, the six properties tested are above (or below) selected thresholds.

[0059] In order to find the optimum region comparable to the optimum mixture in the schematic diagram, minimum requirements for each property were set. The minimum requirement values ​​were set considering standard hair styling polymers available on the market.

[0060] For the characteristic texture, the goal is to be more sensorially acceptable than the current standard of biopolymers on the market for hair sprays (currently xanthan gum).

[0061] For the characteristic bending stiffness and curl retention, the minimum / maximum values ​​are set considering the synthetic polymers on the market like PVP, VP / VA copolymers and VP / methacrylamide / vinylimidazole copolymers, which offer different bending stiffness. The goal is to get as close as possible to this synthetic standard or even better, which means as high as possible.

[0062] For characteristic exfoliation, minimum / maximum values ​​are set considering synthetic polymers on the market like PVP, VP / VA copolymers and VP / methacrylamide / vinylimidazole copolymers, which provide different exfoliation values. The goal is to be as close as possible to this synthetic standard or even better, which means as low as possible.

[0063] The optimum region in the ternary diagrams (schematics), meaning the optimum mixture for a hair styling / gel formulation, is defined by the overlap of the minimum requirements for all four properties in these schematics.

[0064] In the following paragraphs, the methods for determining texture, bending stiffness, peeling, and curl retention are described in detail.

[0065] texture

[0066] A sensory evaluation was performed to assess the softness and creamy texture of the samples to be evaluated. The evaluation was completed by three trained volunteers. The results were calculated as the median of three evaluations).

[0067] The goal is a watery and thin texture that is different from common natural solutions, which are state-of-the-art but not very popular with consumers. The texture is rated from 1 to 4 on a 0.5 gradient (1 being the highest and 4 being the lowest). The standard texture of xanthan gum is set to 3 as a reference. The standard texture of alginate is set to 1.5 as a reference.

[0068] Bending stiffness test

[0069] The test was conducted using Caucasian dark brown hair tresses of 1.8 g weight, 2 cm width and 8 cm length free hair, flat and with a soft sample of 2 cm x 2 cm gelled length. Seven clean and dry tresses were used for each sample.

[0070] For testing purposes, the hair spray was diluted with deionized water in a ratio of 1:4. The amount applied was 1.4 g / tress. Comb the tresses with the fine-toothed side of a comb until the tresses are uniform. Pinch the scattered parts together with two fingers without applying pressure. The tresses were processed in a special channel to form a flat and uniform shape.

[0071] The shaped tresses are then hung vertically on a rack and dried for at least 1 hour under normal laboratory conditions. After drying, the rack and tresses are placed in a climate chamber at 65% relative humidity and 21°C overnight.

[0072] The maximum force required for the tress to break is then measured in cN using a device that can measure the force required to reach the breaking point, such as a texture analyzer (e.g. Diastron) with a 3-point bending stiffness test configuration. The treated tress is bent to the breaking point by a probe connected to the force measuring unit. The measurement is repeated for 7 tresses in order to obtain an average value of the maximum force before breaking.

[0073] Bending stiffness values ​​are given as maximum force in cN.

[0074] Flaking

[0075] After the measurement of the bending stiffness, the dry hair tresses were combed using a material testing machine (supplier: Zwick / Z005) to produce flaking on the hair tresses. The images of the hair tresses were taken in a camera box, where circular light and polarizing filters were used to control the light conditions and avoid reflections. The photographs were evaluated by a software package (open platform: ImageJ) to determine the number of fragments on the hair tresses and the average particle size of the fragments. The area fraction was calculated from the number of fragments, the average particle size of the fragments and the surface area of ​​the hair tresses.

[0076] The spalling strength is determined using three parameters: the number of fragments, the particle size of the fragments and the area fraction (which describes the area covered by the particles). All three parameters show that the less spalling there is, the lower their values ​​are.

[0077] Curl retention

[0078] Use 2 g of dark brown tresses of round free hair of length 15 cm. Before use, bleach the tresses with 5% hydrogen peroxide. Dilute the gel with deionized water at a ratio of 1:2. The amount applied is 1.5 g / tress. Comb the 5 tresses with the fine-toothed side of the comb until the tresses are uniform. Pinch the scattered parts together with two fingers without applying pressure.

[0079] The tresses were wound on Teflon curlers with guides to ensure uniform curling of all tresses. The curlers with the tresses were then dried at 40°C overnight and subsequently cooled for 1 hour. The tresses were hung on a graduated rack and placed in a climate chamber at 25°C and 90% rh, and the initial length of the tresses and the lengths after 5h and 24h were recorded accordingly.

[0080] The curl retention (CR) is then calculated using the following formula:

[0081] CR (in %) = [(L-Lt) / (L-L0)] × 100

[0082] Where: L = hair length (15cm)

[0083] L0 = Starting curly hair length

[0084] Lt = length of curly hair after a certain period of time (5h / 24h)

[0085] The texture, bending stiffness, flaking and curl retention of the ternary system were tested using formulations containing the ternary system. Preliminary testing has been done to determine the total polymer content in the styling formulation to produce a usable formulation. This was done on a concentration series of 0.5% to 5%. The concentration of synthetic polymers in common formulations was considered in this setting. It has been surprisingly found that half the concentration commonly used in synthetic polymers can achieve the desired texture and performance.

[0086] The DoE measurements were performed using the following formulation.

[0087] Glu, Xan, Alg (total polymer content 1.5%):

[0088]

[0089]

[0090]

[0091]

[0092] The four properties described above have been determined at 19 points in each system described in the previous table. As mentioned above, based on these 19 points, mathematical models for the four properties have been developed.

[0093] As mentioned previously, the optimum regions in the ternary diagrams (schematics) representing the tested ternary systems are defined by the overlap of the minimum requirements for all four properties in these schematics.

[0094]

[0095] Better texture ratings than those achieved with xanthan gum alone (set at 3.0 as a reference) can be achieved, while high curl retention (CR), high bending stiffness (BS) and low flaking can be achieved. Texture ratings of 1.75 or lower can be achieved.

[0096] Attached photos

[0097] This document includes Figures 9 to 12 as well as Figures 11 to 24 .

[0098] The figure of this document is a ternary diagram, showing the composition with the characteristics given in the table at the end of the experimental part. The widest range defines the composition according to the present invention, and the narrower range represents the preferred, more preferred and most preferred composition. The corners of the ternary diagram represent 100% by weight of konjac gum (K), xanthan gum (X) and alginate (A). The sides of the triangle of the ternary diagram are linearly scaled, and they represent binary mixtures. The shaded area represents the composition with the characteristics given in the table at the end of the experimental part. The ternary diagram is explained in detail under the "ternary plot" of the English version www.wikipedia.org.

[0099] exist Fig. 9 In the figure, each point of the shaded area represents a composition of the Xan-Alg-Glu system having the properties given as "broadest" in the corresponding table at the end of the experimental part. The shaded area represents the Xan-Alg-Glu composition according to the invention.

[0100] exist Fig.10 In the figure, each point in the shaded area represents a composition of the Xan-Alg-Glu system having the properties given as "preferred" in the corresponding table at the end of the experimental part. The shaded area represents the preferred Xan-Alg-Glu composition according to the present invention.

[0101] exist Fig.11In the figure, each point of the shaded area represents a composition of the Xan-Alg-Glu system having the properties given as "more preferred" in the corresponding table at the end of the experimental part. The shaded area represents the more preferred Xan-Alg-Glu composition according to the present invention.

[0102] exist Fig.12 In the figure, each point in the shaded area represents a composition of the Xan-Alg-Glu system having the properties given as "most preferred" in the corresponding table at the end of the experimental part. The shaded area represents the most preferred Xan-Alg-Glu composition according to the present invention.

[0103] Figures 21 to 24 Corresponds to Figures 9 to 12 .exist Figures 9 to 12 In , the shaded area is bounded by the curve. Figure 21 to Figure 24 In the figure, the shaded area is approximated by a polygon bounded by straight lines.

[0104] Figure 21 to Figure 24 The polygons in are defined by the positions of their corners in the corresponding ternary diagram. The following paragraph is a list of these corner positions. The numbers indicate the ratios of the polymer amounts.

[0105] Fig.21 : The widest Glu-Xan-Alg (184-202); Glu, Xan, Alg are represented by x, y, z:

[0106] All mixtures within the following polygon contain at least 2 of the 3 polymers:

[0107] Polygon 1: x1=0.96, y1=0.04, z1=0 to x2=0.95, y2=0, z2=0.05 to x3=0.85, y3=0.15, z3=0.0 and back to x1, y1, z1.

[0108] Polygon 2: x4=0.86, y4=0.13, z4=0.01 to x2=0.95, y2=0, z2=0.05, x6=0.07, y6=0, z6=0.93 to x5=0.05, y5=0.10, z5=0.85 and back to x4, y4, z4.

[0109] Polygon 3: x6=0.07, y6=0, z6=0.93 to x7=0.01, y7=0.99, z7=0 to x8=0, y8=1.00, z8=0 to x9=0, y9=0, z9=1.00 and back to x6, y6, z6.

[0110] Fig. 22: Preferred Glu-Xan-Alg (184-202); Glu, Xan, Alg are represented by x, y, z:

[0111] All mixtures within the following polygon contain at least 2 of the 3 polymers:

[0112] Polygon 1: x1=0.96, y1=0.04, z1=0 to x2=0.95, y2=0, z2=0.05 to x3=0.9, y3=0.09, z3=0 and back to x1, y1, z1.

[0113] Polygon 2: x4=0.91, y4=0.08, z4=0.01 to x5=0.05, y5=0.06, z5=0.89 to x6=0.05, y6=0, z6=0.95 to x2=0.95, y2=0, z2=0.05 and back to x4, y4, z4.

[0114] Polygon 3: x6=0.05, y6=0, z6=0.95 to x7=0, y7=0.43, z7=0.57 to x8=0, y8=0, z8=1.00 and back to x6, y6, z6.

[0115] Fig.23 : More preferably Glu-Xan-Alg (184-202); Glu, Xan, Alg are represented by x, y, z:

[0116] All mixtures within the following polygon contain at least 2 of the 3 polymers:

[0117] Polygon 1: x1=0.86, y1=0.06, z1=0.08 to x2=0.83, y2=0, z2=0.17 to x3=0.53, y3=0, z3=0.47 to x4=0.50, y4=0.02, z4=0.48 and back to x1, x2, x3.

[0118] Fig.24 : More preferably Glu-Xan-Alg (184-202); Glu, Xan, Alg are represented by x, y, z:

[0119] All mixtures within the following polygon contain at least 2 of the 3 polymers:

[0120] Polygon 1: x1=0.65, y1=0.04, z1=0.31 to x2=0.61, y2=0, z2=0.39 to x3=0.52, y3=0, z3=0.48 to x4=0.50, y4=0.02, z4=0.48 and back to x1, x2, x3.

Claims

1. A composition suitable for cosmetic applications, comprising At least two of the components konjac gum, xanthan gum and alginate, and further comprising water, and further comprising at least one additional cosmetically acceptable ingredient different from the components contained in the composition and different from water, wherein the relative amount of each component present is not more than 99% by weight of the total amount of all components present, And among them, The weight ratio of these components is within the shaded area of ​​the ternary diagram shown in Figure 9, preferably within the shaded area of ​​the ternary diagram shown in Figure 10, more preferably within the shaded area of ​​the ternary diagram shown in Figure 11, and most preferably within the shaded area of ​​the ternary diagram shown in Figure 12.

2. A raw material composition, It is composed of at least two of the components konjac gum, xanthan gum and alginate, in, The weight ratio of these components is within the shaded area of ​​the ternary diagram shown in FIG. 9 , preferably within the shaded area of ​​the ternary diagram shown in FIG. 10 , more preferably within the shaded area of ​​the ternary diagram shown in FIG. 11 , and most preferably within the shaded area of ​​the ternary diagram shown in FIG. 12 , And the relative amount of each component present therein is not higher than 99% by weight of the total amount of all components present.

3. The composition according to claim 1, comprising 0.2 to 5.0 wt. %, preferably 0.5 to 4.0 wt. %, more preferably 1.5 to 2.0 wt. % of the total amount of all components as defined in claim 1 present, and 0.1 to 40.0 wt. %, preferably 0.5 to 30 wt. %, more preferably 1 to 20 wt. % of the at least one additional cosmetically acceptable ingredient, The balance to 100% by weight is water.

4. The composition according to claim 1 or 3, wherein The composition is a composition suitable for styling hair.

5. The composition according to claim 1 or 3 to 4, wherein The composition is a skin care composition.

6. The composition according to claim 1 or 3 to 5, wherein The at least one additional cosmetic ingredient is selected from the group consisting of preservatives, humectants, neutralizers, calcium salts, emollients, emulsifiers, fragrances and actives, plasticizers, glycerin, sodium benzoate, citric acid, calcium chloride, conditioning agents, and combinations thereof.

7. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 or 3 to 4 or 6 for styling hair.

8. Use of the composition according to any one of claims 1, 3, 5 or 6 for skin care.

9. A method for styling hair, the method comprising contacting the hair with a composition according to any one of claims 1 or 3 to 4 or 6.

10. A method for achieving a skin care benefit, the method comprising contacting the skin with a composition according to any one of claims 1, 3, 5 or 6.

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