A whitening and moisturizing essence and its preparation process and application

Abstract

The present invention provides a whitening and moisturizing essence and its preparation process and application, belonging to the field of cosmetic technology. The essence of the present invention contains tranexamic acid, niacinamide, macromolecular hyaluronic acid, small molecule hyaluronic acid, hexapeptide-2, hollyhock flower extract, Rhodiola rosea extract, licorice extract, coastal pine needle extract, polyol moisturizer, plant oil and other ingredients; wherein, hollyhock flower extract, Rhodiola rosea extract, licorice extract and coastal pine needle extract are each obtained by a special enzymatic hydrolysis method. The present invention adopts tranexamic acid and niacinamide to synergistically whiten, hyaluronic acid and polyols, plant oils and fats to jointly moisturize, plant extracts enhance antioxidant, whitening and safety, ensure uniform and stable ingredients through a reasonable preparation process, and help improve the efficacy of the essence.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and in particular relates to a whitening and moisturizing essence and a preparation process and application thereof. Background Art

[0002] In modern society, external factors such as ultraviolet radiation, air pollution, and blue light from electronic devices are increasingly damaging to the skin. UVA and UVB rays penetrate the skin's surface, stimulating melanocytes to produce large amounts of melanin, leading to darkening, spots, and other pigmentation problems. Long-term exposure to polluted environments can damage the skin's moisture barrier, accelerating water loss and causing dryness, roughness, and a lack of elasticity.

[0003] From the perspective of skin physiology, the normal skin metabolism cycle is about 28 days, but due to the influence of various adverse factors, metabolism may slow down, melanin is difficult to be effectively discharged, the moisturizing factor of the stratum corneum is reduced, and the skin's self-repair and moisturizing ability is reduced.

[0004] Traditional whitening products often use a single whitening ingredient, such as vitamin C and its derivatives, and arbutin. While these ingredients can inhibit melanin production to a certain extent, they suffer from issues such as poor stability and low bioavailability. For example, vitamin C is easily oxidized, significantly reducing its whitening effect during storage and use. Pure moisturizing products often focus solely on replenishing skin's moisture without improving its overall condition.

[0005] In recent years, technological advancements have led to new breakthroughs in the development of whitening and moisturizing products. Numerous new whitening ingredients have been discovered and applied, such as tranexamic acid, which effectively inhibits tyrosinase activity, reduces melanin formation, and exhibits high stability. Niacinamide not only inhibits the transfer of melanin into the stratum corneum but also improves the skin's barrier function, aiding in moisturizing. Furthermore, hyaluronic acid products with varying molecular weights are widely used for moisturizing. Larger hyaluronic acid forms a breathable film on the skin's surface, preventing water loss, while smaller hyaluronic acid penetrates deeper into the skin, replenishing moisture and promoting collagen synthesis. Furthermore, plant extracts such as licorice extract and grape seed extract are popular choices in whitening and moisturizing serum formulations due to their antioxidant, whitening, moisturizing, and relatively safe and mild properties. These extracts not only synergize with other ingredients but also reduce the irritation and allergy risks associated with synthetic ingredients.

[0006] However, currently, there are many kinds of whitening and moisturizing products with varying effects, and the following problems are common:

[0007] (1) Effect visibility problem: The whitening effect is not obvious and the usage period is long.

[0008] (2) Ingredient safety issues: Some ingredients pose risks. For example, arbutin may hydrolyze to produce hydroquinone under acidic, high-concentration, and long-term storage conditions, causing damage to the skin.

[0009] (3) Excessive irritants: Some essences contain excessive amounts of irritants such as alcohol and preservatives, which can easily cause skin itching, redness and other discomfort reactions. Long-term use can also accelerate skin aging.

[0010] (4) Ingredient conflict: If the ingredients of different whitening essences are mixed, the whitening effect may be affected or the skin may be damaged due to ingredient conflict. For example, mixing niacinamide with acidic substances will release niacin to irritate the skin.

[0011] Therefore, the research and development of whitening and moisturizing products should continue to develop in a more efficient, safe and multifunctional direction to address skin problems and meet consumer needs. Summary of the Invention

[0012] The existing whitening and moisturizing products have problems such as unclear effects, long usage cycles, ingredient safety risks, and ingredient conflicts. The present invention provides a whitening and moisturizing essence and its preparation process and application, which adopts tranexamic acid and niacinamide for synergistic whitening, hyaluronic acid and polyols and plant oils for joint moisturizing, and plant extracts for enhanced antioxidant, whitening and safety. A reasonable preparation process is used to ensure uniform and stable ingredients, which helps to improve the efficacy of the essence, thereby solving some of the problems of existing products to a certain extent, using efficient and stable ingredients to solve the problem of unclear effects, avoiding high-risk ingredients to ensure safety, and using a reasonable formula to reduce ingredient conflicts. The specific technical scheme is as follows:

[0013] A whitening and moisturizing essence comprises the following raw materials in percentage by mass: 3% to 5% tranexamic acid, 4% to 6% niacinamide, 1% to 2% high-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid, 0.5% to 1% low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid, 0.001% to 0.005% hexapeptide-2, 2% to 3% hollyhock flower extract, 2% to 3% rhodiola rosea extract, 1% to 2% licorice extract, 2% to 3% coastal pine needle extract, 5% to 10% polyol moisturizer, 1% to 2% vegetable oil, 0.3% to 0.5% mild preservative, and the balance is deionized water.

[0014] In the above essence, the molecular weight of the macromolecular hyaluronic acid ranges from 1.8 million Da to 2 million Da.

[0015] In the above essence, the molecular weight of the small molecule hyaluronic acid is in the range of 10,000 Da to 50,000 Da.

[0016] In the above essence, the polyol moisturizing agent includes glycerol and propylene glycol, and the mass ratio of glycerol:propylene glycol is (1-3):(2-5).

[0017] In the above essence, the plant oil is jojoba oil.

[0018] In the above essence, the mild preservative is phenoxyethanol.

[0019] In the above-mentioned essence, the preparation method of the hollyhock flower extract comprises the following steps: taking hollyhock flowers and crushing them, adding a phosphate buffer solution with a pH of 5.5-6.5 at a concentration of 5 to 10 times the mass of the hollyhock flowers, stirring evenly, adding a complex enzyme with a concentration of 0.5% to 1.5% by mass of the hollyhock flowers, and performing enzymolysis at 35°C to 45°C and a rotation speed of 100 rpm to 200 rpm for 2 hours to 4 hours; then adjusting the pH to 6-7, adding bromelain with a concentration of 0.5% to 1.5% by mass of the hollyhock flowers and ginger enzyme with a concentration of 0.5% to 1.5% by mass of the hollyhock flowers, and stirring at 50°C to 55°C and a rotation speed of 100 rpm to 200 rpm. The method comprises the following steps: performing enzymatic hydrolysis for 1 hour to 1.5 hours at a rotation speed of n to 200 r / min; rapidly heating the temperature to 80° C. to 90° C. and maintaining the temperature for 10 minutes to 15 minutes to inactivate the enzyme, thereby obtaining a hollyhock flower enzymatic hydrolyzate; filtering the hollyhock flower enzymatic hydrolyzate through a mesh, and then filtering through a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, and concentrating the filtrate to a water content of 50wt% to 60wt%, thereby obtaining a hollyhock flower extract.

[0020] In the above-mentioned essence, the preparation method of the holy land rhodiola rosea extract comprises the following steps: taking the holy land rhodiola rosea rhizome and crushing it, adding citric acid-sodium citrate buffer solution of 8 times to 12 times the weight of the holy land rhodiola rosea rhizome and pH 4.0-5.0, stirring evenly, adding 1% to 2% papain of the holy land rhodiola rosea rhizome weight, enzymolysis at 40°C to 50°C and 150r / min to 250r / min speed for 2h to 3h, then adjusting the pH to 5.5-6.0, adding 1% of the holy land rhodiola rosea rhizome weight The invention discloses a method for preparing a rhodiola rosea hydrolyzate comprising the steps of: adding 1% to 2% of ficin, performing enzymolysis at 60° C. to 65° C. and a rotation speed of 150 r / min to 250 r / min for 1 hour to 1.5 hours; after the enzymolysis is completed, rapidly heating the temperature to 85° C. to 95° C. and maintaining the temperature for 10 minutes to 15 minutes to inactivate the enzyme, thereby obtaining a rhodiola rosea hydrolyzate; filtering the rhodiola rosea hydrolyzate through a mesh, and then filtering through a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, and concentrating the filtrate to a water content of 50wt% to 60wt%, thereby obtaining a rhodiola rosea extract.

[0021] In the above-mentioned essence, the preparation method of the licorice root extract comprises the following steps: taking the licorice root and crushing it, adding 8 to 10 times the weight of the licorice root and acetic acid-sodium acetate buffer with a pH of 5.0 to 6.0, adding 0.5% to 1.5% of the weight of the licorice root, 0.8% to 1.6% of the weight of the licorice root beta-glucanase and 1% to 2% of the weight of the licorice root, and stirring at 38°C to 42°C. The method comprises the following steps: performing enzymolysis for 3 to 4 hours at a rotation speed of 100 r / min to 200 r / min; after the enzymolysis is completed, rapidly heating the temperature to 85° C. to 95° C. and maintaining the temperature for 10 to 15 minutes to inactivate the enzyme, thereby obtaining an enzymatic hydrolyzate of Glycyrrhiza glabra; filtering the enzymatic hydrolyzate of Glycyrrhiza glabra through a mesh, and then filtering through a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, and concentrating the filtrate to a water content of 50wt% to 60wt%, thereby obtaining an extract of Glycyrrhiza glabra.

[0022] In the above essence, the preparation method of the coastal pine needle extract comprises the following steps: taking coastal pine needles, crushing them, adding 8 to 10 times the mass of coastal pine needles and having a pH of 7.0 to 8.0 Tri The invention discloses a method for preparing a coastal pine needle extract by preparing an s-HCl buffer, adding laccase in an amount of 1.2% to 2.2% by weight of coastal pine needles, carrying out enzymatic hydrolysis at 25°C to 35°C and a rotation speed of 100r / min to 150r / min for 4 to 6 hours, then adding subtilisin in an amount of 1% to 1.5% by weight of coastal pine needles, carrying out enzymatic hydrolysis at 50°C to 60°C and a rotation speed of 100r / min to 150r / min for 2 to 3 hours; after the enzymatic hydrolysis is completed, rapidly heating to 75°C to 85°C and maintaining for 10 to 15 minutes to inactivate the enzyme, thereby obtaining a coastal pine needle enzymatic hydrolyzate; filtering the coastal pine needle enzymatic hydrolyzate through a mesh, and then filtering through a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, and concentrating the filtrate to a water content of 50wt% to 60wt%, thereby obtaining a coastal pine needle extract.

[0023] In the preparation methods of the hollyhock flower extract and the licorice glabra extract, the complex enzyme comprises cellulase, pectinase and hemicellulase, and the mass ratio of cellulase:pectinase:hemicellulase is (1-2):(0.5-1):(0.5-1).

[0024] In the above-mentioned preparation methods of hollyhock flower extract, Rhodiola rosea extract, Glycyrrhiza glabra extract and coastal pine needle extract, the mesh number of the sieve filtration is 200-250 meshes.

[0025] The preparation method of the above-mentioned whitening and moisturizing essence comprises the following steps:

[0026] S1: Add large molecular weight hyaluronic acid and small molecular weight hyaluronic acid to 60% to 70% by mass of deionized water, and stir continuously at 300 rpm to 500 rpm for 30 to 45 minutes to fully swell until a uniform and transparent colloidal solution A is formed;

[0027] S2: adding tranexamic acid, niacinamide, hexapeptide-2, hollyhock flower extract, rhodiola rosea extract, licorice extract and coastal pine needle extract to the remaining 30% to 40% by mass of deionized water, and mixing well to obtain a mixed solution B;

[0028] S3: uniformly mixing the polyol moisturizer and the vegetable oil to obtain a mixture C;

[0029] S4: Add mixed solution B to colloidal solution A, stir and mix at 400 r / min ~ 600 r / min for 20 min ~ 30 min to ensure uniform dispersion, then add mixture C, stir and mix at 300 r / min ~ 500 r / min for 20 min ~ 30 min to further integrate the system, finally add mild preservative, stir and mix at 300 r / min ~ 500 r / min for 5 min ~ 10 min until uniform, to obtain whitening and moisturizing essence.

[0030] Application of the above-mentioned whitening and moisturizing essence in cosmetics with whitening and moisturizing effects.

[0031] The whitening and moisturizing essence of the present invention and its preparation process and application have the following beneficial effects:

[0032] 1. The essence of the present invention includes tranexamic acid, niacinamide, large molecule hyaluronic acid, small molecule hyaluronic acid, hexapeptide-2, hollyhock flower extract, Rhodiola rosea extract, licorice extract, coastal pine needle extract, polyol moisturizer, plant oil and other ingredients. The combination of these ingredients has good whitening and moisturizing effects and improves light spots.

[0033] Second, large-molecule hyaluronic acid, with its larger molecular weight, forms a breathable moisturizing film on the skin's surface, preventing moisture from escaping and locking in moisture. Small-molecule hyaluronic acid, with its smaller molecular weight, can penetrate the stratum corneum, increasing its water content and moisturizing the skin from within. Polyol moisturizers are water-absorbing and water-locking, binding with moisture in the skin to keep it hydrated.

[0034] Third, tranexamic acid achieves a whitening effect by inhibiting tyrosinase activity, reducing melanin formation. Tyrosinase is a key enzyme in melanin synthesis, and tranexamic acid's inhibition of it can reduce melanin production. Niacinamide primarily blocks the transport of melanosomes from melanocytes to keratinocytes, reducing the transfer of melanin to the skin's surface and lightening the skin tone.

[0035] Fourth, Glycyrrhiza glabra extract contains glabridin, which penetrates deep into the skin to inhibit tyrosinase activity and reduce melanin production. This inhibits melanin production in melanocytes, reducing the formation of dark spots and also lightens existing ones. Furthermore, its antioxidant properties reduce free radical damage to the skin, helping to maintain a brighter, brighter complexion.

[0036] 5. Hexapeptide-2 regulates the metabolism of skin cells, accelerates the shedding of pigment-containing keratinocytes, and reduces the deposition of spots on the skin surface.

[0037] 6. Hollyhock flower extract is obtained by hydrolyzing the hollyhock flower with a complex enzyme, followed by hydrolysis with bromelain and ginger protease, to obtain an extract below 5000Da. The complex enzyme hydrolysis process can break down the cell walls of the hollyhock flower, making the polysaccharides and other moisturizing ingredients therein more easily dissolve. These small-molecule moisturizing ingredients can be better absorbed by the skin, enhancing the moisturizing effect. Enzymatic hydrolysis can release more active ingredients, and hydrolysis can generate small-molecule protein peptides. These ingredients have antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibitory effects, thereby exerting better effects in whitening and lightening spots. The small-molecule extract is obtained by precisely controlling the enzymatic hydrolysis conditions and filtration, ensuring the purity and effectiveness of the active ingredients.

[0038] 7. Rhodiola rosea extract is obtained by enzymatically hydrolyzing the rhizome of Rhodiola rosea with papain and ficin, yielding an extract below 5000Da. Protease hydrolysis can yield certain small peptides. The resulting small-molecule extract, filtered through an ultrafiltration membrane, is more easily absorbed by the skin. Hydrolysis with papain and ficin under different conditions releases active ingredients such as salidroside, which has antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibitory properties, making it more effective in whitening, moisturizing, and lightening skin. Precise post-enzymatic inactivation and filtration steps ensure the extract's quality and activity.

[0039] 8. Licorice glabra extract utilizes a combination of enzymes to hydrolyze the root, fully releasing moisturizing ingredients such as polysaccharides. The resulting small-molecule extract is more easily absorbed by the skin, enhancing moisturizing effects. The synergistic action of complex enzymes, β-glucanase, and ficin fully decomposes cell walls, releasing active whitening and spot-removing ingredients such as glabridin and enzymatically hydrolyzed small peptides.

[0040] 9. Coastal pine needle extract is hydrolyzed using laccase and subtilisin to obtain an extract below 5000Da. This step-by-step enzymatic hydrolysis fully decomposes the cell walls of coastal pine needles, releasing moisturizing ingredients such as polysaccharides and amino acids. The small-molecule extract is more easily absorbed by the skin, enhancing moisturizing effects. The step-by-step enzymatic hydrolysis with laccase and subtilisin releases ingredients with antioxidant and whitening properties, such as polyphenols and small-molecule peptides.

[0041] 10. Hollyhock flower extract, Rhodiola rosea extract, Glycyrrhiza glabra extract, and Maritime pine needle extract all contain certain moisturizing ingredients, such as polysaccharides. Used together, they form a multi-layered moisturizing system, from locking in moisture on the skin's surface (similar to the effect of large-molecule hyaluronic acid) to moisturizing within the skin (similar to the effect of small-molecule hyaluronic acid), enhancing the skin's overall moisturizing effect. Furthermore, synergistically acting with polyol moisturizers, they can further increase the skin's water content, keeping it hydrated for a long time. These extracts all contain ingredients that can inhibit tyrosinase activity, such as flavonoids, salidroside, glabridin, and various small-molecule peptides. Used together, they can inhibit melanin production at multiple levels, exerting a synergistic whitening effect. Furthermore, their antioxidant properties can scavenge free radicals within the skin, reducing their stimulation of melanocytes, thereby further reducing melanin production, enhancing the whitening effect, and preventing the aggravation of dark spots. The combined effect achieves a more effective spot-lightening effect. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0042] The present invention will be further described below with reference to specific implementation cases, but the present invention is not limited to these embodiments.

[0043] Example 1

[0044] A whitening and moisturizing essence comprises the following raw materials in percentage by mass: 4% tranexamic acid, 5% niacinamide, 1.5% high-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid, 0.8% low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid, 0.003% hexapeptide-2, 2.5% hollyhock flower extract, 2.5% rhodiola rosea extract, 1.5% glycyrrhiza glabra extract, 2.5% coastal pine needle extract, 8% polyol moisturizer, 1.5% vegetable oil, 0.4% mild preservative, and the balance is deionized water.

[0045] The molecular weight of large-molecule hyaluronic acid ranges from 1.8 million to 2 million Da. The molecular weight of small-molecule hyaluronic acid ranges from 10,000 to 50,000 Da. Polyol moisturizers include glycerin and propylene glycol, with a mass ratio of glycerin:propylene glycol of 2:3. The vegetable oil used is jojoba oil. Phenoxyethanol is a mild preservative.

[0046] The preparation method of hollyhock flower extract comprises the following steps: crushing hollyhock flowers, adding a phosphate buffer solution with a pH of 6.0 and a concentration of 8 times the mass of the hollyhock flowers, stirring evenly, adding a complex enzyme with a concentration of 1.0% by mass of the hollyhock flowers, wherein the complex enzyme comprises cellulase, pectinase and hemicellulase in a mass ratio of cellulase: pectinase: hemicellulase = 1.5:0.8:0.8, performing enzymatic hydrolysis at 40°C and a rotation speed of 150 r / min for 3 hours; then adjusting the pH to 6.5, adding 1.0% bromelain and 1.0% gingerase by weight of hollyhock flower are enzymatically hydrolyzed at 52° C. and a rotation speed of 150 r / min for 1 hour; after the enzymatic hydrolysis is completed, the temperature is rapidly raised to 85° C. and maintained for 12 minutes to inactivate the enzymes, thereby obtaining a hollyhock flower enzymatic hydrolyzate; the hollyhock flower enzymatic hydrolyzate is filtered through a 250-mesh sieve and then through a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, which is then concentrated to a water content of 55wt% to obtain a hollyhock flower extract.

[0047] Among them, the preparation method of the holy land rhodiola rosea extract includes the following steps: taking the holy land rhodiola rosea rhizome and crushing it, adding citric acid-sodium citrate buffer with a pH of 4.5 and 10 times the mass of the holy land rhodiola rosea rhizome, stirring evenly, adding 1.5% papain of the holy land rhodiola rosea rhizome, enzymolysis at 45°C and 200r / min speed for 2.5h, then adjusting the pH to 5.8, adding 1.5% ficin of the holy land rhizome, enzymolysis at 62°C and 200r / min speed for 1h; after the enzymolysis is completed, quickly heating to 90°C and keeping it for 12 minutes to inactivate the enzyme to obtain the holy land rhodiola rosea enzymolysis solution; filtering the holy land rhodiola rosea enzymolysis solution with a 250 mesh sieve, and then filtering it with a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, concentrating it to a water content of 50wt% to obtain the holy land rhodiola rosea extract.

[0048] The preparation method of the glycyrrhiza glabra extract comprises the following steps: taking glycyrrhiza glabra roots and crushing them, adding acetic acid-sodium acetate buffer solution with a pH of 5.5 and 9 times the weight of the glycyrrhiza glabra roots, adding 1.0% of the weight of the glycyrrhiza glabra roots as a composite enzyme, wherein the composite enzyme comprises cellulase, pectinase and hemicellulase, and the mass ratio of cellulase:pectinase:hemicellulase is 1.5:0.8:0.8, then adding 1.2% of the weight of the glycyrrhiza glabra roots as beta-glucanase and 1.5% of the weight of the glycyrrhiza glabra roots as ficin, and performing enzymolysis at 40° C. and a rotation speed of 150 r / min for 3.5 hours; after the enzymolysis is completed, rapidly heating to 90° C. and maintaining for 12 minutes to inactivate the enzymes to obtain a glycyrrhiza glabra enzymatic hydrolyzate; filtering the glycyrrhiza glabra enzymatic hydrolyzate through a 250-mesh sieve, and then filtering through a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, and concentrating the filtrate to a water content of 55wt% to obtain the glycyrrhiza glabra extract.

[0049] In the above-mentioned essence, the preparation method of the coastal pine needle extract includes the following steps: taking coastal pine needles, crushing them, adding Tris-HCl buffer with a pH of 7.5 and 9 times the mass of coastal pine needles, adding laccase with a mass of 1.8% of the mass of coastal pine needles, enzymolysis at 30°C and a speed of 120r / min for 5 hours, and then adding subtilisin with a mass of 1.2% of the mass of coastal pine needles, enzymolysis at 55°C and a speed of 120r / min for 2.5 hours; after the enzymolysis is completed, rapidly heating to 80°C and maintaining for 12 minutes to inactivate the enzyme to obtain a coastal pine needle enzymatic hydrolyzate; filtering the coastal pine needle enzymatic hydrolyzate with a 250-mesh sieve, and then filtering with a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, concentrating to a water content of 60wt% to obtain a coastal pine needle extract.

[0050] The preparation method of the above-mentioned whitening and moisturizing essence comprises the following steps:

[0051] S1: Add macromolecular hyaluronic acid and small molecular hyaluronic acid into 65% by mass deionized water, and stir continuously at 400 rpm for 40 min to fully swell until a uniform and transparent colloidal solution A is formed;

[0052] S2: adding tranexamic acid, niacinamide, hexapeptide-2, hollyhock flower extract, rhodiola rosea extract, glycyrrhiza glabra extract and coastal pine needle extract to the remaining 35% by mass of deionized water, and mixing well to obtain a mixed solution B;

[0053] S3: uniformly mixing the polyol moisturizer and the vegetable oil to obtain a mixture C;

[0054] S4: Add mixed solution B to colloidal solution A, stir and mix at 500 r / min for 25 minutes to ensure uniform dispersion, then add mixture C, stir and mix at 400 r / min for 25 minutes to further integrate the system, finally add mild preservative, stir and mix at 400 r / min for 8 minutes until uniform, and sterilize to obtain whitening and moisturizing essence.

[0055] The whitening and moisturizing essence of this embodiment is used in cosmetics with whitening and moisturizing effects.

[0056] Example 2

[0057] A whitening and moisturizing essence comprises the following raw materials in percentage by mass: 3% tranexamic acid, 4% niacinamide, 1% high-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid, 0.5% low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid, 0.001% hexapeptide-2, 2% hollyhock flower extract, 2% rhodiola rosea extract, 1% licorice extract, 2% coastal pine needle extract, 5% polyol moisturizer, 1% vegetable oil, 0.3% mild preservative, and the balance is deionized water.

[0058] The molecular weight of large-molecule hyaluronic acid ranges from 1.8 million to 2 million Da. The molecular weight of small-molecule hyaluronic acid ranges from 10,000 to 50,000 Da. Polyol moisturizers include glycerin and propylene glycol, with a mass ratio of glycerin:propylene glycol of 1:2. The vegetable oil used is jojoba oil. Phenoxyethanol is a mild preservative.

[0059] The preparation method of hollyhock flower extract comprises the following steps: crushing hollyhock flowers, adding a phosphate buffer solution with a pH of 5.5 and a concentration of 5 times the mass of the hollyhock flowers, stirring evenly, adding a complex enzyme with a concentration of 0.5% by mass of the hollyhock flowers, wherein the complex enzyme comprises cellulase, pectinase and hemicellulase in a mass ratio of cellulase: pectinase: hemicellulase = 1:0.5:0.5, and performing enzymolysis at 35° C. and a rotation speed of 100 r / min for 2 hours; then adjusting the pH to 6, adding 0.5% by mass of bromelain and 0.5% by mass of the hollyhock flowers, and performing enzymolysis at 50° C. and a rotation speed of 100 r / min for 1 hour; after the enzymolysis is completed, rapidly heating to 80° C. and maintaining for 10 minutes to inactivate the enzymes to obtain a hollyhock flower enzymatic hydrolyzate; filtering the hollyhock flower enzymatic hydrolyzate through a 200-mesh sieve, and then filtering through a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, and concentrating the filtrate to a water content of 50wt% to obtain a hollyhock flower extract.

[0060] Among them, the preparation method of the holy land rhodiola rosea extract includes the following steps: taking the holy land rhodiola rosea rhizome and crushing it, adding citric acid-sodium citrate buffer with a pH of 4.0 and 8 times the mass of the holy land rhodiola rosea rhizome, stirring evenly, adding 1% papain by mass of the holy land rhodiola rosea rhizome, enzymolysis at 40°C and 150r / min speed for 2h, then adjusting the pH to 5.5, adding 1% ficin by mass of the holy land rhodiola rosea rhizome, enzymolysis at 60°C and 150r / min speed for 1h; after the enzymolysis is completed, quickly heating to 85°C and maintaining for 10min to inactivate the enzyme to obtain the holy land rhodiola rosea enzymolysis solution; filtering the holy land rhodiola rosea enzymolysis solution with a 200-mesh sieve, and then filtering with a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, concentrating to a water content of 50wt% to obtain the holy land rhodiola rosea extract.

[0061] The preparation method of the glycyrrhiza glabra extract comprises the following steps: taking glycyrrhiza glabra roots and crushing them, adding acetic acid-sodium acetate buffer solution with a pH of 5.0 and 8 times the weight of the glycyrrhiza glabra roots, adding a complex enzyme with a weight of 0.5% of the weight of the glycyrrhiza glabra roots, wherein the complex enzyme includes cellulase, pectinase and hemicellulase, and the weight ratio of cellulase: pectinase: hemicellulase is 1:0.5:0.5, then adding β-glucanase with a weight of 0.8% of the weight of the glycyrrhiza glabra roots and ficin with a weight of 1% of the weight of the glycyrrhiza glabra roots, and performing enzymolysis at 38° C. and a speed of 100 r / min for 3 hours; after the enzymolysis is completed, rapidly heating to 85° C. and maintaining for 10 minutes to inactivate the enzymes to obtain a glycyrrhiza glabra enzymatic hydrolyzate; filtering the glycyrrhiza glabra enzymatic hydrolyzate through a 200-mesh sieve, and then filtering through a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, and concentrating it to a water content of 60wt% to obtain the glycyrrhiza glabra extract.

[0062] In the above-mentioned essence, the preparation method of the coastal pine needle extract includes the following steps: taking coastal pine needles, crushing them, adding Tris-HCl buffer with a pH of 7.0 and 8 times the mass of coastal pine needles, adding laccase with a mass of 1.2% of the mass of coastal pine needles, enzymolysis at 25°C and a speed of 100 r / min for 4 hours, and then adding subtilisin with a mass of 1% of the mass of coastal pine needles, enzymolysis at 50°C and a speed of 100 r / min for 2 hours; after the enzymolysis is completed, rapidly heating to 75°C and maintaining for 10 minutes to inactivate the enzyme to obtain a coastal pine needle enzymatic hydrolyzate; filtering the coastal pine needle enzymatic hydrolyzate with a 200-mesh sieve, and then filtering with a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, concentrating to a water content of 50wt% to obtain a coastal pine needle extract.

[0063] The preparation method of the above-mentioned whitening and moisturizing essence comprises the following steps:

[0064] S1: Add macromolecular hyaluronic acid and small molecular hyaluronic acid into 60% by mass deionized water, and stir continuously at 300 r / min for 30 min to fully swell until a uniform and transparent colloidal solution A is formed;

[0065] S2: adding tranexamic acid, niacinamide, hexapeptide-2, hollyhock flower extract, rhodiola rosea extract, glycyrrhiza glabra extract and coastal pine needle extract to the remaining 40% by mass of deionized water, and mixing well to obtain a mixed solution B;

[0066] S3: uniformly mixing the polyol moisturizer and the vegetable oil to obtain a mixture C;

[0067] S4: Add mixed solution B to colloidal solution A, stir and mix at 400 r / min for 20 minutes to ensure uniform dispersion, then add mixture C, stir and mix at 300 r / min for 20 minutes to further integrate the system, finally add mild preservative, stir and mix at 300 r / min for 5 minutes until uniform, and sterilize to obtain whitening and moisturizing essence.

[0068] The whitening and moisturizing essence of this embodiment is used in cosmetics with whitening and moisturizing effects.

[0069] Example 3

[0070] A whitening and moisturizing essence comprises the following raw materials in percentage by mass: 3% tranexamic acid, 6% niacinamide, 1% high-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid, 1% low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid, 0.001% hexapeptide-2, 3% hollyhock flower extract, 2% rhodiola rosea extract, 2% glycyrrhiza glabra extract, 2% coastal pine needle extract, 10% polyol moisturizer, 1% vegetable oil, 0.5% mild preservative, and the balance is deionized water.

[0071] The molecular weight of large-molecule hyaluronic acid ranges from 1.8 million to 2 million Da. The molecular weight of small-molecule hyaluronic acid ranges from 10,000 to 50,000 Da. Polyol moisturizers include glycerin and propylene glycol, with a mass ratio of glycerin:propylene glycol of 1:5. The vegetable oil used is jojoba oil. Phenoxyethanol is a mild preservative.

[0072] The preparation method of the hollyhock flower extract comprises the following steps: crushing hollyhock flowers, adding a phosphate buffer solution with a pH of 6.5 and a concentration of 5 times the mass of the hollyhock flowers, stirring evenly, adding a complex enzyme with a concentration of 0.5% by mass of the hollyhock flowers, the complex enzyme comprising cellulase, pectinase and hemicellulase, with a mass ratio of cellulase: pectinase: hemicellulase = 2:0.5:1, and performing enzymolysis at 35°C and a rotation speed of 200 r / min for 2 hours; then adjusting the pH to 7, adding 0.5% by mass of bromelain and 1.5% by mass of gingerin at a rotation speed of 50°C and 200 r / min for 1 hour; after the enzymolysis is completed, rapidly heating to 90°C and maintaining for 10 minutes to inactivate the enzymes to obtain a hollyhock flower enzymatic hydrolyzate; filtering the hollyhock flower enzymatic hydrolyzate through a 250-mesh sieve, and then filtering through a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, and concentrating it to a water content of 60wt% to obtain a hollyhock flower extract.

[0073] Among them, the preparation method of the holy land rhodiola rosea extract includes the following steps: taking the holy land rhodiola rosea rhizome and crushing it, adding citric acid-sodium citrate buffer solution with a pH of 4.0 and 12 times the mass of the holy land rhodiola rosea rhizome, stirring evenly, adding 2% papain by mass of the holy land rhodiola rosea rhizome, enzymolysis at 40°C and 250r / min speed for 2h, then adjusting the pH to 6.0, adding 1% ficin by mass of the holy land rhodiola rosea rhizome, enzymolysis at 65°C and 150r / min speed for 1.5h; after the enzymolysis is completed, rapidly heating to 85°C and maintaining for 15min to inactivate the enzyme to obtain the holy land rhodiola rosea enzymolysis solution; filtering the holy land rhodiola rosea enzymolysis solution with a 200-mesh sieve, and then filtering with a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, concentrating to a water content of 60wt% to obtain the holy land rhodiola rosea extract.

[0074] The preparation method of the glycyrrhiza glabra extract comprises the following steps: taking glycyrrhiza glabra roots and crushing them, adding acetic acid-sodium acetate buffer solution with a pH of 6.0 and 8 times the weight of the glycyrrhiza glabra roots, adding a complex enzyme with a weight of 0.5% of the weight of the glycyrrhiza glabra roots, wherein the complex enzyme includes cellulase, pectinase and hemicellulase, and the weight ratio of cellulase: pectinase: hemicellulase is 2:0.5:1, then adding β-glucanase with a weight of 0.8% of the weight of the glycyrrhiza glabra roots and ficin with a weight of 2% of the weight of the glycyrrhiza glabra roots, and performing enzymolysis at 38° C. and a speed of 200 r / min for 3 hours; after the enzymolysis is completed, rapidly heating to 95° C. and maintaining for 10 minutes to inactivate the enzymes to obtain a glycyrrhiza glabra enzymatic hydrolyzate; filtering the glycyrrhiza glabra enzymatic hydrolyzate through a 250-mesh sieve, and then filtering through a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, and concentrating it to a water content of 53wt% to obtain the glycyrrhiza glabra extract.

[0075] In the above-mentioned essence, the preparation method of the coastal pine needle extract includes the following steps: taking coastal pine needles, crushing them, adding Tris-HCl buffer with a pH of 7.0 and 10 times the mass of the coastal pine needles, adding laccase with a mass of 2.2% of the mass of the coastal pine needles, enzymolysis at 25°C and a speed of 150r / min for 4 hours, and then adding subtilisin with a mass of 1.5% of the mass of the coastal pine needles, enzymolysis at 50°C and a speed of 150r / min for 2 hours; after the enzymolysis is completed, rapidly heating to 85°C and maintaining for 10 minutes to inactivate the enzyme to obtain a coastal pine needle enzymatic hydrolyzate; filtering the coastal pine needle enzymatic hydrolyzate with a 250-mesh sieve, and then filtering with a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, concentrating to a water content of 56wt% to obtain a coastal pine needle extract.

[0076] The preparation method of the above-mentioned whitening and moisturizing essence comprises the following steps:

[0077] S1: Add macromolecular hyaluronic acid and small molecular hyaluronic acid into 70% by mass of deionized water, and stir continuously at 300 r / min for 45 min to fully swell until a uniform and transparent colloidal solution A is formed;

[0078] S2: adding tranexamic acid, niacinamide, hexapeptide-2, hollyhock flower extract, rhodiola rosea extract, glycyrrhiza glabra extract and coastal pine needle extract to the remaining 30% by mass of deionized water, and mixing well to obtain a mixed solution B;

[0079] S3: uniformly mixing the polyol moisturizer and the vegetable oil to obtain a mixture C;

[0080] S4: Add mixed solution B to colloidal solution A, stir and mix at 600 r / min for 20 minutes to ensure uniform dispersion, then add mixture C, stir and mix at 500 r / min for 20 minutes to further integrate the system, finally add mild preservative, stir and mix at 500 r / min for 5 minutes until uniform, and sterilize to obtain whitening and moisturizing essence.

[0081] The whitening and moisturizing essence of this embodiment is used in cosmetics with whitening and moisturizing effects.

[0082] Example 4

[0083] A whitening and moisturizing essence comprises the following raw materials in percentage by mass: 5% tranexamic acid, 6% niacinamide, 2% high-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid, 1% low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid, 0.005% hexapeptide-2, 3% hollyhock flower extract, 3% rhodiola rosea extract, 2% licorice extract, 3% coastal pine needle extract, 10% polyol moisturizer, 2% vegetable oil, 0.5% mild preservative, and the balance is deionized water.

[0084] The molecular weight of large-molecule hyaluronic acid ranges from 1.8 million to 2 million Da. The molecular weight of small-molecule hyaluronic acid ranges from 10,000 to 50,000 Da. The polyol moisturizers include glycerin and propylene glycol, with a mass ratio of glycerin:propylene glycol of 3:5. The vegetable oil used is jojoba oil. Phenoxyethanol is a mild preservative.

[0085] The preparation method of hollyhock flower extract comprises the following steps: crushing hollyhock flowers, adding a phosphate buffer solution with a pH value of 6.5 and a concentration of 10 times the mass of the hollyhock flowers, stirring evenly, adding a composite enzyme with a mass ratio of 1.5% of the mass of the hollyhock flowers, wherein the composite enzyme comprises cellulase, pectinase and hemicellulase, and the mass ratio of cellulase: pectinase: hemicellulase is 2:1:1, and enzymolysis is performed at 45° C. and a rotation speed of 200 r / min for 4 hours; then adjusting the pH to 7, adding 1.5% of the mass of bromelain and 1.5% of the mass of the hollyhock flowers, and enzymolysis is performed at 55° C. and a rotation speed of 200 r / min for 1.5 hours; after the enzymolysis is completed, rapidly heating to 90° C. and maintaining for 15 minutes to inactivate the enzymes to obtain a hollyhock flower enzymatic hydrolyzate; filtering the hollyhock flower enzymatic hydrolyzate through a 250-mesh sieve, and then filtering through a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, and concentrating it to a water content of 58wt% to obtain a hollyhock flower extract.

[0086] Among them, the preparation method of the holy land rhodiola rosea extract includes the following steps: taking the holy land rhodiola rosea rhizome and crushing it, adding citric acid-sodium citrate buffer solution with a pH of 5.0 and 12 times the mass of the holy land rhodiola rosea rhizome, stirring evenly, adding 2% papain by mass of the holy land rhodiola rosea rhizome, enzymolysis at 50°C and 250r / min speed for 3 hours, then adjusting the pH to 6.0, adding 2% ficin by mass of the holy land rhodiola rosea rhizome, enzymolysis at 65°C and 250r / min speed for 1.5 hours; after the enzymolysis is completed, rapidly heating to 95°C and maintaining for 15 minutes to inactivate the enzyme to obtain the holy land rhodiola rosea enzymolysis solution; filtering the holy land rhodiola rosea enzymolysis solution with a 250-mesh sieve, and then filtering with a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, concentrating to a water content of 60wt% to obtain the holy land rhodiola rosea extract.

[0087] The preparation method of the glycyrrhiza glabra extract comprises the following steps: taking glycyrrhiza glabra roots and crushing them, adding acetic acid-sodium acetate buffer solution with a pH of 6.0 and 10 times the weight of the glycyrrhiza glabra roots, adding a complex enzyme with a weight of 1.5% of the weight of the glycyrrhiza glabra roots, the complex enzyme comprising cellulase, pectinase and hemicellulase, and a mass ratio of cellulase: pectinase: hemicellulase = 2:1:1, then adding β-glucanase with a weight of 1.6% of the weight of the glycyrrhiza glabra roots and ficin with a weight of 2% of the weight of the glycyrrhiza glabra roots, and performing enzymolysis at 42° C. and a speed of 200 r / min for 4 hours; after the enzymolysis is completed, rapidly heating to 95° C. and maintaining for 15 minutes to inactivate the enzymes to obtain a glycyrrhiza glabra enzymatic hydrolyzate; filtering the glycyrrhiza glabra enzymatic hydrolyzate through a 250-mesh sieve, and then filtering through a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, and concentrating it to a water content of 52wt% to obtain the glycyrrhiza glabra extract.

[0088] In the above-mentioned essence, the preparation method of the coastal pine needle extract includes the following steps: taking coastal pine needles, crushing them, adding Tris-HCl buffer with a pH of 8.0 and 10 times the mass of the coastal pine needles, adding laccase with a mass of 2.2% of the mass of the coastal pine needles, enzymolysis at 35°C and a speed of 150r / min for 6 hours, and then adding subtilisin with a mass of 1.5% of the mass of the coastal pine needles, enzymolysis at 60°C and a speed of 150r / min for 3 hours; after the enzymolysis is completed, rapidly heating to 85°C and maintaining for 15 minutes to inactivate the enzyme to obtain a coastal pine needle enzymatic hydrolyzate; filtering the coastal pine needle enzymatic hydrolyzate with a 250-mesh sieve, and then filtering with a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, concentrating to a water content of 54wt% to obtain a coastal pine needle extract.

[0089] The preparation method of the above-mentioned whitening and moisturizing essence comprises the following steps:

[0090] S1: Add macromolecular hyaluronic acid and small molecular hyaluronic acid into 70% by mass of deionized water, and stir continuously at 500 rpm for 45 min to fully swell until a uniform and transparent colloidal solution A is formed;

[0091] S2: adding tranexamic acid, niacinamide, hexapeptide-2, hollyhock flower extract, rhodiola rosea extract, glycyrrhiza glabra extract and coastal pine needle extract to the remaining 30% by mass of deionized water, and mixing well to obtain a mixed solution B;

[0092] S3: uniformly mixing the polyol moisturizer and the vegetable oil to obtain a mixture C;

[0093] S4: Add mixed solution B to colloidal solution A, stir and mix at 600 r / min for 30 minutes to ensure uniform dispersion, then add mixture C, stir and mix at 500 r / min for 30 minutes to further integrate the system, finally add mild preservative, stir and mix at 500 r / min for 10 minutes until uniform, and sterilize to obtain whitening and moisturizing essence.

[0094] The whitening and moisturizing essence of this embodiment is used in cosmetics with whitening and moisturizing effects.

[0095] Example 5

[0096] A whitening and moisturizing essence comprises the following raw materials in percentage by mass: 5% tranexamic acid, 4% niacinamide, 2% high-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid, 0.5% low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid, 0.005% hexapeptide-2, 2% hollyhock flower extract, 3% rhodiola rosea extract, 1% licorice extract, 3% coastal pine needle extract, 5% polyol moisturizer, 2% vegetable oil, 0.3% mild preservative, and the balance is deionized water.

[0097] The molecular weight of large-molecule hyaluronic acid ranges from 1.8 million to 2 million Da. The molecular weight of small-molecule hyaluronic acid ranges from 10,000 to 50,000 Da. The polyol moisturizers include glycerin and propylene glycol, with a mass ratio of glycerin:propylene glycol of 3:2. The vegetable oil used is jojoba oil. Phenoxyethanol is a mild preservative.

[0098] The preparation method of hollyhock flower extract comprises the following steps: crushing hollyhock flowers, adding a phosphate buffer solution with a pH value of 5.5 and a concentration of 10 times the mass of the hollyhock flowers, stirring evenly, adding a composite enzyme with a mass ratio of 1.5% of the mass of the hollyhock flowers, wherein the composite enzyme comprises cellulase, pectinase and hemicellulase, and the mass ratio of cellulase: pectinase: hemicellulase is 1:1:0.5, and performing enzymolysis at 45° C. and a rotation speed of 100 r / min for 4 hours; then adjusting the pH to 6, adding 1.5% of the mass of bromelain and 0.5% of the mass of gingerin at the mass of the hollyhock flowers, and performing enzymolysis at 55° C. and a rotation speed of 100 r / min for 1.5 hours; after the enzymolysis is completed, rapidly heating to 80° C. and maintaining for 15 minutes to inactivate the enzymes to obtain a hollyhock flower enzymatic hydrolyzate; filtering the hollyhock flower enzymatic hydrolyzate through a 200-mesh sieve, and then filtering through a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, and concentrating it to a water content of 60wt% to obtain a hollyhock flower extract.

[0099] Among them, the preparation method of the holy land rhodiola rosea extract includes the following steps: taking the holy land rhodiola rosea rhizome and crushing it, adding citric acid-sodium citrate buffer with a pH of 5.0 and 8 times the mass of the holy land rhodiola rosea rhizome, stirring evenly, adding 1% papain by mass of the holy land rhodiola rosea rhizome, enzymolysis at 50°C and 150r / min speed for 3 hours, then adjusting the pH to 5.5, adding 2% ficin by mass of the holy land rhodiola rosea rhizome, enzymolysis at 60°C and 250r / min speed for 1 hour; after the enzymolysis is completed, quickly heating to 95°C and maintaining for 10 minutes to inactivate the enzyme to obtain the holy land rhodiola rosea enzymolysis solution; filtering the holy land rhodiola rosea enzymolysis solution with a 250-mesh sieve, and then filtering with a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, concentrating to a water content of 50wt% to obtain the holy land rhodiola rosea extract.

[0100] The preparation method of the glycyrrhiza glabra extract comprises the following steps: taking glycyrrhiza glabra roots and crushing them, adding acetic acid-sodium acetate buffer solution with a pH of 5.0 and 10 times the weight of the glycyrrhiza glabra roots, adding a complex enzyme with a weight of 1.5% of the weight of the glycyrrhiza glabra roots, wherein the complex enzyme includes cellulase, pectinase and hemicellulase, and the weight ratio of cellulase: pectinase: hemicellulase is 1:1:0.5, then adding β-glucanase with a weight of 1.6% of the weight of the glycyrrhiza glabra roots and ficin with a weight of 1% of the weight of the glycyrrhiza glabra roots, and performing enzymolysis at 42° C. and a rotation speed of 100 r / min for 4 hours; after the enzymolysis is completed, rapidly heating to 85° C. and maintaining for 15 minutes to inactivate the enzymes to obtain a glycyrrhiza glabra enzymatic hydrolyzate; filtering the glycyrrhiza glabra enzymatic hydrolyzate through a 200-mesh sieve, and then filtering through a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate with a weight of less than 5000Da, and concentrating the filtrate to a water content of 60wt% to obtain the glycyrrhiza glabra extract.

[0101] In the above-mentioned essence, the preparation method of the coastal pine needle extract includes the following steps: taking coastal pine needles, crushing them, adding Tris-HCl buffer with a pH of 8.0 and 8 times the mass of coastal pine needles, adding laccase with a mass of 1.2% of the mass of coastal pine needles, enzymolysis at 35°C and a speed of 100 r / min for 6 hours, and then adding subtilisin with a mass of 1% of the mass of coastal pine needles, enzymolysis at 60°C and a speed of 100 r / min for 3 hours; after the enzymolysis is completed, rapidly heating to 75°C and maintaining for 15 minutes to inactivate the enzyme to obtain a coastal pine needle enzymatic hydrolyzate; filtering the coastal pine needle enzymatic hydrolyzate with a 200-mesh sieve, and then filtering with a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, concentrating to a water content of 58wt% to obtain a coastal pine needle extract.

[0102] The preparation method of the above-mentioned whitening and moisturizing essence comprises the following steps:

[0103] S1: Add macromolecular hyaluronic acid and small molecular hyaluronic acid into 60% by mass deionized water, and stir continuously at 500 rpm for 30 min to fully swell until a uniform and transparent colloidal solution A is formed;

[0104] S2: adding tranexamic acid, niacinamide, hexapeptide-2, hollyhock flower extract, rhodiola rosea extract, glycyrrhiza glabra extract and coastal pine needle extract to the remaining 40% by mass of deionized water, and mixing well to obtain a mixed solution B;

[0105] S3: uniformly mixing the polyol moisturizer and the vegetable oil to obtain a mixture C;

[0106] S4: Add mixed solution B to colloidal solution A, stir and mix at 400 r / min for 30 minutes to ensure uniform dispersion, then add mixture C, stir and mix at 300 r / min for 30 minutes to further integrate the system, finally add mild preservative, stir and mix at 300 r / min for 10 minutes until uniform, and sterilize to obtain whitening and moisturizing essence.

[0107] The whitening and moisturizing essence of this embodiment is used in cosmetics with whitening and moisturizing effects.

[0108] The cellulase used in the above embodiments has an enzymatic activity of 20,000 U / g, which is derived from Jiangsu Pratt Bioengineering Co., Ltd.; the pectinase has an enzymatic activity of 30,000 U / g, which is derived from Shandong Jishuo Biotechnology Co., Ltd.; the hemicellulase has an enzymatic activity of 100,000 U / g, which is derived from Jiangxi Huayuyuan Biotechnology Co., Ltd.; the bromelain has an enzymatic activity of 500,000 U / g, which is derived from Shanxi Yirun Biotechnology Co., Ltd.; the ginger protease has an enzymatic activity of 100,000 U / g, which is derived from Shanghai Guchen Biotechnology Co., Ltd.; the papain has an enzymatic activity of 100,000 U / g, which is derived from Shaanxi Zhenhe Biotechnology Co., Ltd.; the ficin has an enzymatic activity of 100,000 U / g, which is derived from Nanjing Songguan Biotechnology Co., Ltd.; the β-glucanase is yeast β-glucanase, which is derived from Shanxi Shuohang Biotechnology Co., Ltd.; the laccase has an enzymatic activity of 100,000 U / g, which is derived from Henan Jinchengde Biotechnology Co., Ltd.; the subtilisin has an enzymatic activity of 20,000 U / g, which is derived from Yuantidu Biotechnology (Foshan) Co., Ltd.

[0109] The macromolecular hyaluronic acid used in the above examples was sourced from Xi'an Youlanda Biotechnology Co., Ltd. The small molecule hyaluronic acid was sourced from Xi'an Youlanda Biotechnology Co., Ltd. The propylene glycol was 1,2-propylene glycol sourced from Shandong Tongxin Chemical Co., Ltd. The plant oil was jojoba oil sourced from Jiangxi Huabao Natural Fragrance Oil Co., Ltd.

[0110] Comparative Example 1

[0111] No macromolecular hyaluronic acid was added to the essence, and the content of the macromolecular hyaluronic acid was replaced by deionized water; other parameters and methods were the same as in Example 1.

[0112] Comparative Example 2

[0113] Hexapeptide-2 was not added to the essence, and the content of hexapeptide-2 was replaced by deionized water; other parameters and methods were the same as in Example 1.

[0114] Comparative Example 3

[0115] The hollyhock flower extract was not added to the essence, and the content of the hollyhock flower extract was replaced by deionized water; other parameters and methods were the same as in Example 1.

[0116] Comparative Example 4

[0117] No Rhodiola rosea extract was added to the essence, and the component content of the Rhodiola rosea extract was replaced by deionized water; other parameters and methods were the same as in Example 1.

[0118] Comparative Example 5

[0119] No coastal pine needle extract was added to the essence, and the content of the coastal pine needle extract was replaced by deionized water; other parameters and methods were the same as in Example 1.

[0120] Comparative Example 6

[0121] The essence does not contain Rhodiola rosea extract and coastal pine needle extract. The content of the components of Rhodiola rosea extract and coastal pine needle extract is replaced by deionized water. Other parameters and methods are the same as those in Example 1.

[0122] Comparative Example 7

[0123] In the preparation method of hollyhock flower extract, ginger protease is not used for enzymatic hydrolysis; other parameters and methods are the same as those in Example 1.

[0124] Comparative Example 8

[0125] In the preparation method of the Rhodiola rosea extract, ficin is not used for enzymatic hydrolysis; other parameters and methods are the same as in Example 1.

[0126] Comparative Example 9

[0127] In the preparation method of the Glycyrrhiza glabra extract, ficin is not used for enzymatic hydrolysis; other parameters and methods are the same as those in Example 1.

[0128] Comparative Example 10

[0129] The preparation method of the coastal pine needle extract comprises crushing the coastal pine needle extract, percolating with ethanol 8 times the mass of the coastal pine needle extract to obtain an ethanol extract, and concentrating the ethanol extract to 50% water content to obtain the coastal pine needle extract. Other parameters and methods are the same as those in Example 1.

[0130] Comparative Example 11

[0131] The preparation methods for hollyhock flower extract, Rhodiola rosea extract, Glycyrrhiza glabra extract, and coastal pine needle extract all employed an ethanol percolation method, i.e., after pulverization, the pulverized material was percolated with ethanol at a volume 8 times the mass of the pulverized material to obtain an ethanol extract, which was then concentrated to a water content of 50% to obtain the extract. Other parameters and methods were the same as in Example 1.

[0132] The essences of the above-mentioned embodiments and comparative examples were tested for safety, whitening, moisturizing and spot-lightening effects.

[0133] 1. Safety Testing

[0134] Safety tests were performed on the whitening and moisturizing essences prepared in each embodiment and each comparative example:

[0135] (1) Skin irritation test: 160 healthy adult subjects without skin diseases were selected and randomly divided into 16 groups (10 subjects in each group) for skin closed patch test. 0.1g of whitening and moisturizing essence sample was placed in the patch test chamber, and the patch tester was attached to the clear, rash-free skin on the inner side of the upper arm of the subject. The patch tester was then fixed with medical breathable tape to prevent it from falling off. After keeping it for 24 hours, the patch tester was torn off and marked with a marker. The skin reaction was recorded 30 minutes (the indentation disappeared), 24 hours and 72 hours after removing the test subject patch tester, and scored according to the international skin irritation scoring standard. The results are shown in Table 1 below.

[0136] (2) Cytotoxicity Test: Several human skin keratinocytes cultured in vitro were seeded in a 96-well plate. After culturing for 24 hours in normal cell culture medium, the culture medium was replaced with a cell culture medium containing the whitening and moisturizing essence (the volume concentration of the essence was 10%). The cells were cultured for another 48 hours. Cell viability was determined using the MTT assay. The absorbance at 570 nm was measured using a microplate reader, and the relative cell survival rate was calculated. The results are shown in Table 1 below.

[0137] Table 1 Safety test results

[0138]

[0139] 2. Whitening performance test

[0140] The whitening performance of the whitening and moisturizing essences prepared in each embodiment and each comparative example was tested:

[0141] (1) Tyrosinase inhibition test: The tyrosinase activity inhibition test was conducted using the "Cosmetic-Tyrosinase Activity Inhibition Test Method". The concentration of the test solution containing the essence was about 10%. The higher the inhibition rate of the product on tyrosinase, the better the whitening and spot-removing effect. The results are shown in Table 2 below.

[0142] (2) Human skin whitening test: 170 adult subjects with similar skin color and whitening needs were selected and randomly divided into 17 groups (10 people in each group). One group was a blank control group, which used a matrix (deionized water) without active ingredients as a placebo. The remaining 16 groups were experimental groups. The essence was applied to one side of the face. Each group used it once in the morning and evening for 8 consecutive weeks. The L value (L value indicates the brightness of the skin, the higher the value, the whiter the skin), a value (indicates the red-green tone of the skin, the smaller the value, the closer to white) and b value (indicates the yellow-blue tone of the skin, the smaller the value, the closer to white) of the skin on both sides of the face were measured using a skin colorimeter. The difference in skin chromaticity before and after use was calculated. The results are shown in Table 2 below.

[0143] Table 2 Tyrosinase activity inhibition results

[0144]

[0145]

[0146] 3. Moisturizing test

[0147] The moisturizing properties of the whitening and moisturizing essences prepared in each embodiment and each comparative example were tested:

[0148] (1) In vitro moisturizing test: 3 g of each serum was weighed and evenly applied to a weighed glass slide. The slide was then placed in a desiccator (relative humidity 43% ± 2%, temperature 25°C ± 1°C). The weight change of the slide was measured after 8 hours, and the moisture loss rate was calculated as: moisture loss rate = (initial mass - mass after 8 hours) / initial mass × 100%. The test results are shown in Table 3 below.

[0149] (2) Determination of skin moisture content: 160 healthy adult subjects without skin diseases were randomly divided into 16 groups (10 subjects in each group). Essence (about 2 mg / cm2) was applied to the inner arm area. 2 ) and gently massage until absorbed. Measure skin moisture before, one hour after, and four hours after application of the essence. Calculate the percentage increase in moisture content: Moisture content increase = (post-application moisture content - initial moisture content) / initial moisture content × 100%. The test results are shown in Table 3 below.

[0150] Table 3 Moisture retention test results

[0151]

[0152]

[0153] 4. Spot detection

[0154] The whitening and moisturizing essences prepared in each embodiment and each comparative example were subjected to spot lightening tests:

[0155] (1) Zebrafish Embryo Melanin Inhibition Test: Several zebrafish embryos were cultured in normal embryo culture medium until 24 hours after fertilization. The culture medium was then replaced with embryo culture medium containing a whitening and moisturizing essence (essence concentration was 5%). A negative control group (containing only embryo culture medium) was also set up and cultured in a 28°C incubator for another 48 hours. The melanin production of the zebrafish embryos was observed under a microscope, and the melanin area was measured using image analysis software. The melanin inhibition rate was calculated as: inhibition rate = (melanin area of ​​negative control group - melanin area of ​​sample group) / melanin area of ​​negative control group × 100%. The results are shown in Table 4 below.

[0156] (2) Observation of the effect of spot lightening on human body: 170 adult subjects with chloasma were selected and randomly divided into 17 groups (10 subjects in each group). One group was a blank control group, which used a matrix without active ingredients as a placebo. The remaining 16 groups were experimental groups. The essence was applied to the facial spots. Each group used it once in the morning and evening. The spots were photographed and analyzed before use and after 12 weeks of use. The area and color depth of the spots were measured, and the spot improvement rate was calculated. Improvement rate = (pre-use parameter - post-use parameter) / pre-use parameter × 100%. The measurement results are shown in Table 4 below.

[0157] Table 4 Blemish detection results

[0158]

[0159] The above experimental results show that the whitening and moisturizing essences prepared in Examples 1 to 5 have safe ingredients, are non-irritating to the skin, and have no cytotoxicity; the tyrosinase inhibition rate can reach more than 78%, can improve the brightness of human skin, and significantly play a whitening effect; have good moisturizing properties in vitro and in the human body, have a significant effect on lightening chloasma, can significantly reduce the area of ​​​​the spots and reduce the depth of skin color.From the results of comparative example 1, it can be seen that macromolecular hyaluronic acid has a strong moisturizing effect. If macromolecular hyaluronic acid is not added to the essence, the moisturizing effect is significantly weakened, affecting the absorption rate of the active ingredients and reducing the whitening effect. From the results of comparative example 2, it can be seen that hexapeptide-2 can regulate the proliferation and differentiation of skin cells, promote the renewal of damaged skin cells faster, revitalize cells, and improve the moisturizing ability and metabolic capacity of cells themselves. If hexapeptide-2 is not added to the essence, the whitening, moisturizing and spot-lightening effects are all reduced. From the results of comparative example 3, it can be seen that hollyhock flower extract has anti-inflammatory and soothing effects, can improve the sensitive state of the skin, is beneficial to skin health, and thus helps the skin better absorb whitening and moisturizing. Ingredients, thereby improving the whitening and moisturizing effects. Without adding hollyhock flower extract to the essence, the whitening, moisturizing and spot-lightening effects are all reduced; from the results of comparative example 4, it can be seen that the holy land rhodiola rosea extract has the effects of inhibiting melanin production, promoting melanin metabolism, moisturizing and repairing skin barrier. Without adding holy land rhodiola rosea extract to the essence, the whitening, moisturizing and spot-lightening effects are reduced; from the results of comparative example 5, it can be seen that the coastal pine needle extract can improve skin microcirculation, anti-oxidation, and reduce skin dullness. Without adding coastal pine needle extract to the essence, the whitening and spot-lightening effects are all reduced; from the results of comparative example 6, it can be seen that without adding both holy land rhodiola rosea extract and coastal pine needle extract to the essence, the whitening, moisturizing and spot-lightening effects are all reduced. The whitening, moisturizing and freckle-removing effects are significantly reduced; from the results of Comparative Example 7, it can be seen that in the preparation method of hollyhock flower extract, ginger protease is not used for enzymatic hydrolysis, the components of the extracted product are different, especially the structures of the hydrolyzed small molecule peptides are different, and the whitening, moisturizing and freckle-removing effects are reduced; from the results of Comparative Example 8, it can be seen that in the preparation method of Rhodiola rosea extract, ficin is not used for enzymatic hydrolysis, the components of the extracted product are different, especially the structures of the hydrolyzed small molecule peptides are different, and the whitening, moisturizing and freckle-removing effects are all reduced; from the results of Comparative Example 9, it can be seen that in the preparation method of licorice extract, ficin is not used for enzymatic hydrolysis, the components of the extracted product are different, especially the structures of the hydrolyzed small molecule peptides are different, and the effects The tyrosinase inhibition and moisturizing effects of the Glycyrrhiza glabra extract, as well as the whitening, moisturizing and freckle-removing effects are all reduced; from the results of Comparative Example 10, it can be seen that the preparation method of the coastal pine needle extract adopts the ethanol filtration method, and there are almost no hydrolyzed small molecule peptides in the coastal pine needle extract, the whitening, moisturizing and freckle-removing effects are reduced, and the impurities and irritating substances that are not ultrafiltered increase, causing skin irritation; from the results of Comparative Example 11, it can be seen that the preparation methods of hollyhock flower extract, Rhodiola rosea extract, Glycyrrhiza glabra extract and coastal pine needle extract all adopt the ethanol filtration method, and compared with the enzymatic extraction method, the ethanol extraction products are quite different, the products can cause skin irritation, and the whitening, moisturizing and freckle-removing effects are greatly reduced.

Claims

1. A whitening and moisturizing essence, characterized in that: The essence comprises the following raw materials in percentage by weight: 3% to 5% tranexamic acid, 4% to 6% niacinamide, 1% to 2% macromolecular hyaluronic acid, 0.5% to 1% micromolecular hyaluronic acid, 0.001% to 0.005% hexapeptide-2, 2% to 3% hollyhock flower extract, 2% to 3% rhodiola rosea extract, 1% to 2% licorice extract, 2% to 3% coastal pine needle extract, 5% to 10% polyol moisturizer, 1% to 2% vegetable oil, 0.3% to 0.5% mild preservative, and the balance is deionized water; The molecular weight of macromolecular hyaluronic acid ranges from 1.8 million Da to 2 million Da; The molecular weight of small molecule hyaluronic acid ranges from 10,000 Da to 50,000 Da; The preparation method of the hollyhock flower extract comprises the following steps: crushing the hollyhock flowers, adding a phosphate buffer solution with a pH of 5.5 to 6.5, enzymolyzing the hollyhock flowers with a complex enzyme containing 0.5% to 1.5% by weight of the hollyhock flowers at 35°C to 45°C for 2 to 4 hours; adjusting the pH to 6 to 7, adding 0.5% to 1.5% by weight of bromelain and 0.5% to 1.5% by weight of gingerin at 50°C to 55°C for 1 to 1.5 hours, inactivating the enzymes, filtering and ultrafiltration to obtain a filtrate with a water content of less than 5000Da, and concentrating the filtrate to a water content of 50wt% to 60wt% to obtain the hollyhock flower extract; The preparation method of the holy land rhodiola rosea extract comprises the following steps: crushing the holy land rhodiola rosea rhizome, adding a citric acid-sodium citrate buffer solution with a pH of 4.0-5.0, enzymatically hydrolyzing the mixture with 1%-2% papain by weight of the holy land rhodiola rosea rhizome at 40-50°C for 2 hours to 3 hours, adjusting the pH to 5.5-6.0, adding 1%-2% ficin by weight of the holy land rhodiola rosea rhizome at 60-65°C for 1 hour to 1.5 hours, inactivating the enzyme, filtering and ultrafiltration to obtain a filtrate with a mass of less than 5000Da, and concentrating the filtrate to a water content of 50wt%-60wt% to obtain the holy land rhodiola rosea extract; The preparation method of the glycyrrhiza glabra extract comprises: crushing the glycyrrhiza glabra root, adding an acetic acid-sodium acetate buffer solution with a pH of 5.0-6.0, enzymolyzing the mixture at 38-42° C. for 3-4 hours using a complex enzyme containing 0.5-1.5% by weight of the glycyrrhiza glabra root, 0.8-1.6% by weight of beta-glucanase containing 0.8-1.6% by weight of the glycyrrhiza glabra root, and 1-2% by weight of ficin containing 1%-2% by weight of the glycyrrhiza glabra root, inactivating the enzyme, filtering and ultrafiltration to obtain a filtrate with a mass of less than 5000 Da, and concentrating the filtrate to a water content of 50-60% by weight to obtain the glycyrrhiza glabra extract; The preparation method of the coastal pine needle extract comprises the following steps: crushing the coastal pine needles, adding a Tris-HCl buffer solution with a pH of 7.0 to 8.0, enzymatically hydrolyzing the laccase at 1.2% to 2.2% by weight of the coastal pine needles at 25°C to 35°C for 4 to 6 hours, adding a subtilisin at 1% to 1.5% by weight of the coastal pine needles at 50°C to 60°C for 2 to 3 hours, inactivating the enzymes, filtering and ultrafiltration to obtain a filtrate with a mass of less than 5000 Da, and concentrating the filtrate to a water content of 50wt% to 60wt% to obtain the coastal pine needle extract; The complex enzyme includes cellulase, pectinase and hemicellulase, and the mass ratio is cellulase: pectinase: hemicellulase = (1-2): (0.5-1): (0.5-1).

2. A whitening and moisturizing essence according to claim 1, characterized in that: The polyol moisturizer includes glycerol and propylene glycol, with a mass ratio of glycerol:propylene glycol = (1-3): (2-5); the plant oil is jojoba oil; and the mild preservative is phenoxyethanol.

3. A whitening and moisturizing essence according to claim 1, characterized in that: The preparation method of the hollyhock flower extract comprises the following steps: taking hollyhock flowers and crushing them, adding a phosphate buffer solution with a pH of 5.5-6.5 at a concentration of 5 to 10 times the mass of the hollyhock flowers, stirring evenly, adding a complex enzyme with a concentration of 0.5% to 1.5% by mass of the hollyhock flowers, and performing enzymolysis for 2 to 4 hours at a temperature of 35° C. to 45° C. and a rotation speed of 100 to 200 r / min; then adjusting the pH to 6 to 7, adding bromelain with a concentration of 0.5% to 1.5% by mass of the hollyhock flowers and a phosphate buffer solution with a concentration of 0.5% to 1.5% by mass of the hollyhock flowers, and stirring the mixture evenly. 1.5% ginger protease is enzymatically hydrolyzed at 50°C to 55°C and a rotation speed of 100 r / min to 200 r / min for 1 hour to 1.5 hours; after the enzymatic hydrolysis is completed, the temperature is rapidly raised to 80°C to 90°C and maintained for 10 minutes to 15 minutes to inactivate the enzyme, thereby obtaining a hollyhock flower hydrolyzate; the hollyhock flower hydrolyzate is filtered through a mesh and then through a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, which is concentrated to a water content of 50wt% to 60wt% to obtain a hollyhock flower extract.

4. The whitening and moisturizing essence according to claim 1, characterized in that: The preparation method of the holy land rhodiola rosea extract comprises the following steps: taking the holy land rhodiola rosea rhizome and crushing it, adding citric acid-sodium citrate buffer solution with a pH of 4.0-5.0 and a concentration of 8 to 12 times the weight of the holy land rhodiola rosea rhizome, stirring evenly, adding papain with a concentration of 1% to 2% by weight of the holy land rhodiola rosea rhizome, performing enzymolysis for 2 hours to 3 hours at a temperature of 40° C. to 50° C. and a rotation speed of 150 r / min to 250 r / min, then adjusting the pH to 5.5-6.0, adding 1% to 2% by weight of the holy land rhodiola rosea rhizome, and performing enzymolysis for 2 hours to 3 hours. The fig protease is enzymolyzed at 60°C to 65°C and a rotation speed of 150r / min to 250r / min for 1h to 1.5h; after the enzymolysis is completed, the temperature is rapidly raised to 85°C to 95°C and maintained for 10min to 15min to inactivate the enzyme, thereby obtaining a Rhodiola rosea hydrolyzate; the Rhodiola rosea hydrolyzate is filtered through a sieve and then through a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, which is concentrated to a water content of 50wt% to 60wt% to obtain a Rhodiola rosea extract.

5. The whitening and moisturizing essence according to claim 1, characterized in that: The preparation method of the glycyrrhiza glabra extract comprises the following steps: taking glycyrrhiza glabra roots and crushing them, adding acetic acid-sodium acetate buffer solution with a pH value of 5.0-6.0 and a mass of 8 to 10 times that of the glycyrrhiza glabra roots, adding 0.5 to 1.5% of a complex enzyme by mass of the glycyrrhiza glabra roots, 0.8 to 1.6% of a beta-glucanase by mass of the glycyrrhiza glabra roots, and 1 to 2% of a ficin by mass of the glycyrrhiza glabra roots, performing enzymolysis at 38 to 42° C. and a rotation speed of 100 to 200 r / min for 3 to 4 hours; after the enzymolysis is completed, rapidly heating the temperature to 85 to 95° C. and maintaining the temperature for 10 to 15 minutes to inactivate the enzymes, thereby obtaining a glycyrrhiza glabra enzymatic hydrolyzate; filtering the glycyrrhiza glabra enzymatic hydrolyzate through a mesh, and then filtering through a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, and concentrating the filtrate to a water content of 50 to 60% by mass to obtain the glycyrrhiza glabra extract.

6. The whitening and moisturizing essence according to claim 1, characterized in that: The preparation method of the coastal pine needle extract comprises the following steps: taking coastal pine needles, crushing them, adding Tris-HCl buffer solution with a mass of 8 to 10 times that of the coastal pine needles and a pH of 7.0 to 8.0, adding laccase in an amount of 1.2% to 2.2% by mass of the coastal pine needles, performing enzymatic hydrolysis at 25° C. to 35° C. and a rotation speed of 100 r / min to 150 r / min, then adding subtilisin in an amount of 1% to 1.5% by mass of the coastal pine needles, performing enzymatic hydrolysis at 50° C. to 60° C. and a rotation speed of 100 r / min to 150 r / min, and performing enzymatic hydrolysis for 2 to 3 hours; after the enzymatic hydrolysis is completed, rapidly heating the temperature to 75° C. to 85° C. and maintaining the temperature for 10 to 15 minutes to inactivate the enzyme, thereby obtaining a coastal pine needle enzymatic hydrolyzate; filtering the coastal pine needle enzymatic hydrolyzate through a mesh, and then filtering through a 5000Da ultrafiltration membrane to obtain a filtrate below 5000Da, and concentrating the filtrate to a water content of 50wt% to 60wt%, thereby obtaining a coastal pine needle extract.

7. The whitening and moisturizing essence according to claim 1, characterized in that: The mesh number of the filtering screen is 200-250 meshes.

8. A method for preparing a whitening and moisturizing essence, for preparing the whitening and moisturizing essence according to claim 1, characterized in that: The preparation method comprises the following steps: S1: Add large molecular weight hyaluronic acid and small molecular weight hyaluronic acid to 60% to 70% by mass of deionized water, and stir continuously at 300 rpm to 500 rpm for 30 to 45 minutes to fully swell until a uniform and transparent colloidal solution A is formed; S2: adding tranexamic acid, niacinamide, hexapeptide-2, hollyhock flower extract, rhodiola rosea extract, licorice extract and coastal pine needle extract to the remaining 30% to 40% by mass of deionized water, and mixing well to obtain a mixed solution B; S3: uniformly mixing the polyol moisturizer and the vegetable oil to obtain a mixture C; S4: Add the mixed solution B to the colloidal solution A, stir and mix at 400 r / min ~ 600 r / min for 20 min ~ 30 min to ensure uniform dispersion, then add the mixed solution C, stir and mix at 300 r / min ~ 500 r / min for 20 min ~ 30 min to further integrate the system, finally add the mild preservative, stir and mix at 300 r / min ~ 500 r / min for 5 min ~ 10 min until uniform, to obtain the whitening and moisturizing essence.

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