Solid cosmetic composition comprising at least one cavity

Abstract

The present invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition for hygiene, cleaning and / or beautification of keratin substances, said composition comprising at least one cavity such that the porosity of said composition is greater than or equal to 20% by volume relative to the total volume of said solid composition, and to the related production method.

Description

[0001] The present invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition for the hygiene, cleansing and / or beautification of keratinous materials, more particularly the skin and / or the hair.

[0002] Hotels often provide their customers with soap and / or detergent in the form of single-dose solid compositions. The size and volume of single-dose solid compositions are usually sufficient to provide a good grip for the user. The size and volume are therefore usually significantly larger than is practical to ensure a satisfactory cleaning of the body area to be treated. Therefore, a non-negligible portion of the solid composition ends up as waste, resulting in considerable losses which, for obvious reasons, are unsatisfactory from an economic and ecological point of view.

[0003] The inventors have found that it is possible to come up with a solid composition that overcomes the above-mentioned drawbacks, without affecting the good grip of the user.

[0004] Composition

[0005] The present invention therefore relates to a solid cosmetic composition for the hygiene, cleansing and / or beautification of keratinous substances, said composition comprising at least one cavity so that the porosity of said composition is greater than or equal to 20% by volume, preferably greater than or equal to 30% by volume, better still greater than or equal to 40% by volume, more particularly greater than or equal to 50% by volume, more particularly greater than or equal to 60% by volume, more particularly greater than or equal to 70% by volume, most particularly greater than or equal to 80% by volume, relative to the total volume of said solid composition. The present invention more particularly relates to a composition for the hygiene and / or cleansing of keratinous substances.

[0006] Thus, the composition according to the invention may maintain a size and / or volume similar to current solid compositions, but differ in the presence of at least one cavity, such that the porosity of the composition is greater than or equal to 20% by volume relative to the total volume of the composition.

[0007] "Solid" as defined in the present invention means a composition that does not easily collapse under its own weight at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. Advantageously, it is intended to mean any composition that has a compressive strength greater than or equal to 20 g, preferably greater than or equal to 50 g, and most preferably greater than or equal to 100 g, at ambient temperature (20° C.-25° C.), after a cylindrical rotating probe with a diameter of 0.8 cm penetrates at a speed of 0.5 mm / s into a matrix of the composition with a thickness of 1 mm and withdraws said probe from the matrix of the composition at a speed of 0.5 mm / s; the compressive strength is measured using an analyzer such as the "LFRA Texture Analyzer" sold by STEVENS / MECHTRIC.

[0008] The composition according to the invention is not in the form of a paste. The composition according to the invention is not a pulverulent composition and is therefore not in the form of a powder. Finally, the composition according to the invention is not a porous solid resulting from the agglomeration of powders. According to a first embodiment, the composition according to the invention is not a puffed composition and is therefore not a foam. According to a second embodiment, the composition according to the invention may be a puffed composition and may therefore be in the form of a foam.

[0009] Preferably, the solid composition according to the present invention is not coated with a water-soluble coating.

[0010] "Porosity" as defined herein refers to all voids in a solid substance which can be filled with a fluid, in particular water, when the solid composition comes into contact with an aqueous solution, for example water, such as tap water, shower or bath water.

[0011] The "cavity" defined in the present invention refers to an empty space inside a solid that is directly connected to an external medium, such as Figures 1 to 3 and Figure 6 The cavity shown. Therefore, the cavity can be indiscriminately referred to as an "orifice", "hole" or "hole". Advantageously, the cavity is through-going, that is, the cavity represents an empty space inside the solid and directly connected to the external medium on both sides of the solid.

[0012] Thus, the volume of the cavity in the solid composition according to the invention accounts for at least 20%, more particularly at least 30%, preferably at least 40%, more particularly at least 50%, even at least 60%, more particularly at least 70%, most particularly at least 80% of the total volume of the solid composition.

[0013] Advantageously, the solid composition according to the invention has a density between 0.2 and 0.8, preferably between 0.3 and 0.7 and more particularly between 0.4 and 0.6.

[0014] The total volume of the solid composition according to the present invention can be 0.125 cm 3 and 100cm 3 between 0.250cm 3 and 75cm 3 between, more particularly between 0.5 cm 3 and 50cm 3 between, preferably within 1cm 3 and 25cm 3 between, most especially between 2.5 cm 3 and 15cm 3 between.

[0015] The weight of the solid composition according to the invention may be between 0.025 g and 200 g, preferably between 0.25 g and 150 g, more particularly between 0.5 g and 100 g, better still between 1 g and 75 g, most particularly between 2.5 g and 50 g, even between 5 g and 25 g ("g" corresponds to the unit "gram").

[0016] Advantageously, the weight of the solid composition according to the invention may be between 0.25 g and 200 g, preferably between 0.50 g and 150 g, more particularly between 1 g and 100 g, better still between 2.5 g and 75 g, most particularly between 5 g and 50 g ("g" corresponds to the unit "gram").

[0017] According to a first preferred embodiment, the ratio between the volume of the cavity of the solid composition according to the invention and the total volume of the composition is between 0.05 and 0.9, preferably between 0.1 and 0.8, more particularly between 0.2 and 0.9, preferably between 0.2 and 0.8, better still between 0.2 and 0.7, even between 0.2 and 0.6.

[0018] "Total volume" refers to the volume resulting from the sum of the volume of the solid and the volume of the cavity.

[0019] In the framework of the present invention, the cavity can be considered as macroporosity, i.e. the minimum width or even diameter of the pores is greater than or equal to 0.5 mm, preferably greater than or equal to 0.75 mm, more particularly greater than or equal to 1 mm, even between 0.5 mm and 2 cm, most particularly between 1 mm and 2 cm, preferably between 2 mm and 1 cm, more particularly between 3 mm and 75 mm, better between 4 mm and 50 mm, most particularly between 5 mm and 25 mm. More particularly, the minimum width or even diameter of the pores is between 0.5 mm and 5 mm, preferably between 1 mm and 3 mm.

[0020] Therefore, the applicant pointed out that, at equal porosity, a stable solid composition is produced:

[0021] - easily in the presence of small cavities, e.g. cavities present in a solid matrix as described in US 8349341, the pores being a result of the introduction of gas during the manufacturing process, but

[0022] - This is much more difficult in the presence of macropores as contemplated in the present invention.

[0023] The presence of a cavity in content and / or volume and / or size considered above can obtain a solid composition requiring less raw materials while maintaining satisfactory gripping performance. Therefore, the solid composition according to the present invention can produce no loss or less loss. This weight reduction also has the advantage of allowing less pollution and cheaper transportation. Therefore, the solid composition according to the present invention is ecologically and economically advantageous.

[0024] Furthermore, the inventors have observed that when a solid composition according to the invention is placed in the presence of an aqueous phase, unexpected effects occur in terms of texture and transformation effects. In fact, the inventors have observed that a solid composition according to the invention produces a greater amount of foam and at a faster rate when in contact with an aqueous phase, and even shows faster transformation kinetics between the original solid state and a liquid state, such as a gel or cream, compared to a solid composition of the same size and volume but without a cavity. Without wishing to be bound by any theory, the inventors believe that the presence of a cavity in the solid composition facilitates the transition to a viscous liquid composition (for example when the solid composition is mixed with the hands), or leads to an increase in the contact surface area with the aqueous phase, more particularly water, thus allowing the solid composition to be better hydrated.

[0025] Therefore, the present invention can even adjust the speed of foaming, expansion and / or melting of the solid composition by adjusting the surface area formed under constant volume, by adjusting the percentage of porosity, and more specifically, by adjusting the shape and / or number and / or size of the cavity, and even the number and / or wall thickness of the cavity.

[0026] Advantageously, the size and / or volume of the cavity can be adjusted to store and / or react with the desired amount of water, thereby obtaining a final liquid composition with satisfactory / desirable properties, even optimized and / or uniform (i.e. between different single doses), for example in terms of viscosity, hydration, ease of spreading, amount of foam formed and / or conversion effect.

[0027] Thus, the composition according to the invention even makes it possible to obtain evanescent compositions, ie compositions which, upon contact with a sufficient amount of water, are readily transformed into liquid compositions, more particularly compositions in the form of gels or creams.

[0028] Finally, the above-mentioned advantages in terms of the ability to foam and / or convert into liquid compositions may also require a lower water consumption, which is an additional advantage from an ecological and economic point of view.

[0029] The solid character of the composition according to the invention may be based on a phase consisting predominantly or even completely of a fatty phase comprising at least one lipophilic gelling agent (hereinafter also referred to as “solid fatty phase”).

[0030] Furthermore, the solid character of the composition according to the invention may be based on a phase derived from a saponification reaction (or "pasting") (hereinafter also referred to as "soap phase"), therefore resulting from the conversion of a fat phase comprising at least one oil (preferably a vegetable oil) under the action of soda and, if appropriate, heat.

[0031] Furthermore, the solid nature of the composition according to the invention may be based on a phase comprising at least one synthetic detergent (or surfactant) (hereinafter also referred to as "SYNDET phase"). For example, it is cetyl alcohol (in whole or in part) that contributes to giving SYNDET its solid nature.

[0032] Therefore, the solid characteristics of the composition according to the present invention can be based on (i) a solid fat phase, (ii) a soap phase and / or (iii) a synthetic detergent phase. In the description below, "solid fat phase", "soap phase" and "SYNDET phase" can generally be referred to as expressions of "solid phase".

[0033] The composition according to the invention therefore comprises at least one solid phase.

[0034] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is single-phase and therefore consists only of a solid phase.

[0035] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention may also comprise an aqueous phase dispersed in a solid phase, in particular as defined hereinafter.

[0036] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention may also comprise an aqueous phase dispersed in the solid composition, preferably in encapsulated form.

[0037] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is a single-dose composition.

[0038] This embodiment is particularly advantageous from a hygiene point of view, since it prevents repeated contact between the solid composition and the surface to be treated.

[0039] The invention therefore also relates to a package comprising a plurality of solid compositions according to the invention in single dose form having, for example, different fragrances, shapes, colors and / or cosmetically active ingredients / effects.

[0040] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is a topical composition.The composition according to the invention is not an oral composition.

[0041] The present invention therefore relates to a solid cosmetic composition for the hygiene, cleansing and / or beautification of keratinous substances.

[0042] The solid composition according to the invention may have any shape, for example a sphere, an ellipsoid, a tetrahedron or a polygon, more particularly a parallelogram, preferably a rectangular parallelogram.

[0043] Preferably, in particular in order to provide good grip, the solid composition according to the invention has:

[0044] - a width or even a diameter of between 1 cm and 10 cm, preferably between 2 cm and 8 cm, more particularly between 3 cm and 6 cm, better still between 4 cm and 5 cm; and / or

[0045] - Height (or thickness): between 0.5 cm and 5 cm, preferably between 1 cm and 4 cm, more particularly between 2 cm and 3 cm.

[0046] The cavities of the solid composition according to the invention may have any shape, for example circular, rectangular, oval, triangular, polygonal, more particularly hexagonal, honeycomb, or in a paving shape (or cutout shape), for example a Voronoi diagram ( diagram), preferably in a honeycomb shape, such as Figure 3 and Figure 6 shown.

[0047] like Figure 2 As shown, the cavity of the solid composition according to the present invention may also represent the letters or logo of a brand or company.

[0048] The solid composition according to the invention comprises one or more identical or different cavities, preferably a plurality of identical or different cavities.

[0049] According to a first variant, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one cavity, more particularly a through cavity.

[0050] According to a second preferred variant, the composition according to the invention comprises a plurality of cavities, more particularly through-going cavities, such as Figure 3 and Figure 6 shown.

[0051] These cavities are advantageously through-going cavities along the axis xx′.

[0052] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least two chambers connected together. This embodiment is advantageous because it enhances the capillary phenomenon when in contact with water, thus improving the above-mentioned technical effects.

[0053] Advantageously, the solid composition according to the invention comprises a plurality of cavities in a honeycomb structure, such as Figure 3The honeycomb shape is particularly advantageous because it allows the manufacture of solid compositions having a very advantageous "cavity volume / total composition volume" ratio, more particularly a ratio greater than or equal to 0.5, or even greater than or equal to 0.75, without affecting the grip of the composition and the robustness and / or storage of mechanical stresses that may be applied thereto. In other words, the honeycomb structure is an excellent compromise between cavity volume and mechanical strength.

[0054] Advantageously, the cavity of the solid composition according to the invention comprises a wall having a thickness between 10 μm and 1500 μm, preferably between 20 μm and 1000 μm, more particularly between 30 μm and 750 μm, most particularly between 50 μm and 500 μm, even between 100 μm and 400 μm. More specifically, the cavity of the solid composition according to the invention comprises a wall having a thickness between 250 μm and 500 μm.

[0055] Advantageously, the solid composition according to the invention comprises a plurality of cavities having a honeycomb structure comprising walls having a thickness between 10 μm and 600 μm, preferably between 20 μm and 500 μm, more particularly between 30 μm and 400 μm, most particularly between 50 μm and 300 μm, or even between 100 μm and 200 μm.

[0056] According to a particular embodiment, the solid composition according to the invention, in particular when it adopts a honeycomb structure as described above, can comprise a plurality of parts, more particularly polygonal, each part defining a breakable perimeter allowing at least one part to be separated from the rest of the solid composition. Thus, according to this embodiment, each part of the solid composition corresponds to a single dose.

[0057] According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention may also comprise an additional pattern different from the cavities, said pattern being able to be produced, for example, by embossing.

[0058] A person skilled in the art will ensure that the possible constituent compounds and / or their amounts of the composition according to the invention are selected so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not altered or substantially not altered. Furthermore, a person skilled in the art will ensure that the properties and / or amounts of the additional compounds are selected according to the solid properties of the composition (even when anhydrous) and / or the manufacturing method. Such adjustments fall within the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art.

[0059] In particular, the composition according to the invention advantageously comprises at least one lipophilic gelling agent, more particularly at least one solid fatty substance, preferably chosen from at least one wax, at least one pasty fatty substance, at least one butter and mixtures thereof, as described, for example, in WO2021 / 234135.

[0060] Advantageously, the lipophilic gelling agent is a thermosensitive gelling agent, i.e. a gelling agent that reacts to heat, in particular a gelling agent that is solid at room temperature and liquid at a temperature greater than 50° C., preferably greater than 60° C., more preferably greater than 70° C. Preferably, the thermosensitive lipophilic gelling agent according to the invention has a melting point between 50° C. and 130° C., preferably between 60° C. and 120° C.

[0061] Specifically, the composition according to the invention may comprise 10% to 90% by weight of lipophilic gelling agent, preferably 20% to 80% by weight of lipophilic gelling agent, more particularly 30% to 70% by weight of lipophilic gelling agent, better still 40% to 60% by weight of lipophilic gelling agent relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0062] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one unsaturated, monounsaturated or polyunsaturated fatty acid, preferably C6-C 22 Fatty acids, more particularly C8-C 20 Fatty acids, better C 12 -C 18 Fatty acids, such as lauric acid (C 12 ), myristic acid (C 14 ), palmitic acid (C 16 ), stearic acid (C 18 ), ricinoleic acid (C 18 ) and mixtures thereof.

[0063] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one oil, more particularly a vegetable oil, such as coconut oil, olive oil, sweet almond oil, castor oil, babassu oil and mixtures thereof. Examples of these oils are those described in WO2021 / 234135.

[0064] Specifically, the composition according to the invention may comprise 10% to 90% by weight of oil, preferably 20% to 80% by weight of oil, in particular 30% to 70% by weight of oil, better still 40% to 60% by weight of oil relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0065] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one detergent, such as a surfactant, in particular chosen from sodium cocoyl isethionate, sulfosuccinates, alpha-oleates (oleficategories), alkyl glyceryl ether sulfonates, sodium cocomonoglyceride sulfate, betaine and mixtures thereof. This is particularly the case when the composition according to the invention is a SYNDET (derived from the term "synthetic detergent"), also known as a "soap-free soap" or a "dermatological stick".

[0066] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one lipophilic gelling agent, preferably a thermosensitive lipophilic gelling agent, at least one oil and / or at least one detergent and mixtures thereof.

[0067] According to a first variant, the composition according to the invention is anhydrous. "Anhydrous" as defined herein refers to a composition which, before any contact with water, contains less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight and more particularly less than 0.5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of said composition. This is particularly true when the composition according to the invention is a SYNDET.

[0068] According to a second variant, the composition according to the invention comprises a continuous fatty phase and a dispersed aqueous phase. This is particularly true when the composition according to the invention is a soap, or when the oil phase (or fatty phase) additionally comprises at least one dispersed aqueous phase, for example dispersed in encapsulated form, for example in the form of matrix spheres (or beads or pellets) or as core / shell (or capsules), for example in the form of capsules as described in WO2010 / 063937.

[0069] Therefore, the solid composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one aqueous phase dispersed in the solid composition, preferably in encapsulated form.

[0070] According to one embodiment, the percentage by weight of water in the aqueous phase may be between 0.5% and 50% by weight, preferably between 1% and 40% by weight, more particularly between 2.5% and 30% by weight, better still between 5% and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0071] The composition according to the invention, and more particularly the fatty phase, and even the dispersed aqueous phase when present, may also comprise at least one additional compound different from the lipophilic gelling agents, oils and / or detergents described above.

[0072] The composition according to the present invention may also contain powders; flakes; colorants, in particular selected from water-soluble or water-insoluble, fat-soluble or non-fat-soluble, organic or inorganic colorants, materials with optical effects, liquid crystals and mixtures thereof; granules insoluble in the fat phase; odorants; organic or inorganic fillers, in particular pigments; preservatives; humectants; effervescent agents; disintegrants (such as cross-linked carboxymethyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, etc.); diluents; disintegration promoters; stabilizers; chelating agents; softeners; modifiers, which are selected from texturing agents (or gelling agents, more specifically hydrophilic gelling agents), agents for adjusting pH, agents for adjusting osmotic pressure and / or refractive index regulators, etc. ... or any commonly used cosmetic additives; and mixtures thereof.

[0073] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one effervescent agent and / or at least one disintegrant.

[0074] Preferably, the composition comprises from 0.5% to 50% by weight of disintegrant, more particularly from 1% to 40% by weight of disintegrant, better still from 5% to 30% by weight of disintegrant relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0075] The disintegrant may be chosen from sodium starch glycosate; starch, more particularly wheat starch or corn starch; pregelatinized or partially pregelatinized starch; sodium carboxymethyl starch (weakly substituted, if applicable); starch consisting of lactose starch granules and corn starch granules; starch consisting of starch and pea; starch consisting of starch and potato; starch consisting of starch and wheat; a mannitol-containing disintegrant; crystalline cellulose; microcrystalline cellulose or a mixture of microcrystalline cellulose and xanthan gum; sodium carboxymethylcellulose; cross-linked calcium carboxymethylcellulose; cross-linked sodium carboxymethylcellulose; ethylcellulose; substituted hydroxypropyl cellulose; hydroxypropyl methylcellulose; cross-linked polyvinyl pyrrolidone; cross-linked polyacrylates; alginic acid and its derivatives, such as sodium alginate; and mixtures thereof.

[0076] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one diluent, preferably selected from the group consisting of microcrystalline cellulose, mannitol, lactose, starch, sodium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate and calcium carbonate and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the composition comprises a diluent in an amount of less than 8% by weight (or even less than 5% by weight) relative to the total weight of the solid composition.

[0077] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one disintegration promoter, preferably calcium silicate.

[0078] The composition according to the invention, more particularly the fatty phase, and even the dispersed aqueous phase when present, may also comprise at least one biological / cosmetic active agent chosen from moisturizers, vitamins, scarring agents, depigmenting agents, UV filters, exfoliating agents, antioxidants, active agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules, skin relaxants, antiperspirants, soothing agents and / or anti-aging agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0079] As hydrophilic gelling agents, mention may be made of the hydrophilic gelling agents described in FR3041251.

[0080] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least sodium lactate and / or at least one salt. These ingredients have the advantage, in particular, of hardening the soap.

[0081] As described below, the composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one solvent which is susceptible to complete or partial evaporation during the manufacturing process. As solvent, for example, non-polar or slightly polar organic solvents such as cyclohexane, THF (tetrahydrofuran) and mixtures thereof may be mentioned.

[0082] Of course, a person skilled in the art will ensure that any additional compound and / or its amount is selected so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not altered or substantially altered by the mixture envisaged. Furthermore, a person skilled in the art will ensure that the nature and / or amount of the additional compound is selected according to the aqueous or fatty nature of the phases under consideration and / or with regard to the method of making the composition. Such adjustments fall within the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art.

[0083] When the composition of the invention is a soap and / or a detergent, said composition advantageously meets at least one of the criteria (or indicators) defined below:

[0084] - the cleaning power of the composition ranges from 12 to 22, with the highest number meaning the soap cleans better;

[0085] - the hardness index of the composition is between 29 and 54, the highest number representing the hardest soap and the lowest number representing a softer soap;

[0086] - the emollient index of the composition is between 44 and 69;

[0087] - the foaming power of the composition is between 14 and 46, the highest number representing larger bubbles and the lowest number representing smaller bubbles;

[0088] - the composition has a smoothness index between 16 and 48;

[0089] - the iodine value of the composition is between 41 and 70; and / or

[0090] - The composition has an INS (Saponified Iodine Value) of 136 to 170 (preferably 150 to 165).

[0091] The above standards (or indicators) and their measurement methods are common knowledge for those skilled in the art.

[0092] The solid nature of the composition according to the invention advantageously allows for the provision of conventional packaging. In fact, the packaging of the solid composition according to the invention may be limited to a simple packaging in paper.

[0093] Advantageously, the solid composition according to the invention does not consist of a fibrous lattice.

[0094] Preferably, the solid composition according to the present invention does not include one of polyvinyl alcohol (PVA or PVOH), polyacrylates, copolymers of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, polyvinylidene fluoride (PVDF), polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA), polyvinyl pyrrolidone, polyoxyalkylenes, polyacrylonitrile (PES or PAN), polymethacrylate, polyethylene terephthalate, polyethylene, polypropylene, nylon, hyaluronic acid, starch and its derivatives, pullulan, gelatin, cellulose (e.g. rayon), hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, methylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, cotton and mixtures thereof.

[0095] The composition according to the invention does not comprise (or rely on) a water-soluble solid carrier, such as a hydrogel, more particularly based on starch (suitably destructured), and / or poloxamer 407.

[0096] Manufacturing method

[0097] The composition according to the invention is obtained by any method known to a person skilled in the art as being suitable for the manufacture of solid compositions, with the necessary adjustments being made to ensure the formation of cavities so as to meet the desired porosity criteria.

[0098] Preferably, the process for producing a solid composition according to the invention does not comprise a step of aeration / injection of a gas (for example air) followed, where appropriate, by a step of shaping and drying.

[0099] Method 1

[0100] According to a first variant, the method for manufacturing the composition according to the invention comprises at least the steps consisting of:

[0101] (i) a composition having a obtainable liquid or semi-liquid form;

[0102] (ii) casting the composition in a mold and drying until a solid composition is obtained,

[0103] (iii) cutting the solid composition into a desired shape, and

[0104] (iv) forming a cavity to obtain a solid composition according to the present invention.

[0105] More specifically, this method for manufacturing the composition according to the invention comprises at least the steps consisting of:

[0106] (i) a fatty phase having a liquid or semi-liquid form, a phase derived from a saponification reaction and / or a phase comprising at least one synthetic detergent (or surfactant) (ie a SYNDET phase);

[0107] (ii) casting the phase of step (i) into a mold and drying until a solid phase is obtained,

[0108] (iii) cutting the solid phase into a desired shape, and

[0109] (iv) forming a cavity, thereby obtaining a composition according to the invention.

[0110] According to a particular embodiment, the manufacturing method is saponification (or "gelatinization").

[0111] Step (i) is advantageously carried out under hot conditions.

[0112] Advantageously, steps (iii) and (iv) are performed simultaneously.

[0113] Advantageously, steps (ii), (iii) and (iv) are carried out simultaneously, in which case the mould has a shape suitable for ensuring the formation of the cavity.

[0114] Step (iv) is advantageously carried out by means of a clay cutter.

[0115] The advantage of method 1 is that the waste obtained at the end of step (iv) can be recycled in a subsequent manufacturing process. In fact, in the subsequent to steps (i) and / or (ii) of method 1, the cuttings can be heated again and added again.

[0116] Advantageously, in particular when the composition according to the invention is a soap and / or a detergent, the process according to the invention may also comprise, before step (ii), at least one washing step in order to eliminate the remaining soda.

[0117] Method 2

[0118] According to a second variant, the method for manufacturing the composition according to the invention is an extrusion method.

[0119] This manufacturing method according to the present invention comprises at least the steps consisting of:

[0120] (a) a composition in liquid or semi-liquid form;

[0121] (b) passing the composition of step (a) through an extrusion device equipped with a die (or extrusion grating) having a shape suitable for forming a solid rod, and

[0122] (c) cutting the rods obtained in step (b) to obtain a solid composition according to the present invention.

[0123] More specifically, this method for manufacturing the composition according to the invention comprises at least the steps consisting of:

[0124] (a) a fatty phase in liquid or semi-liquid form, a phase derived from a saponification reaction and / or a phase comprising at least one synthetic detergent (or surfactant) (i.e. a SYNDET phase);

[0125] (b) passing the phase of step (a) through an extrusion device equipped with a die (or extrusion grid) having a shape suitable for forming a solid rod, and

[0126] (c) cutting the solid stick obtained in step (b) to obtain a composition according to the present invention.

[0127] For obvious reasons, step (b) is carried out at a temperature suitable for obtaining a composition having sufficient viscosity to easily retain the given shape of the mould.

[0128] For obvious reasons, the die shape of the extrusion device is also adapted to form the cavity.

[0129] Advantageously, step (b) is carried out at a temperature below ambient temperature, for example at a temperature lower than or equal to 15°C, or even lower than or equal to 10°C.

[0130] In step (b), the extrusion apparatus comprises a die having a shape suitable for forming a cavity and a desired porosity at the solid rod.

[0131] As an example, the extrusion method according to the present invention comprises Figure 4 The mold shown.

[0132] Step (c) may be performed using a knife or wire, such as a butter cutting wire.

[0133] Preferably, steps (b) and (c) are performed simultaneously.

[0134] Preferably, the method for manufacturing the composition according to the invention is the extrusion method 2 described above.

[0135] According to a particular embodiment applicable to the above-mentioned methods 1 and 2, step (i) / (a) consists in having a fluid composition which may include at least one solvent susceptible to complete or partial evaporation during step (ii) / (b) or even during the addition of steps (iii) and / or (iv) / (c).

[0136] As solvents, there may be mentioned, for example, nonpolar or slightly polar organic solvents such as cyclohexane, THF (tetrahydrofuran) and mixtures thereof.

[0137] In the above methods 1 and 2, when the composition comprises at least one fat phase containing at least one lipophilic gelling agent, step (i) / (a) may require heating the composition to a temperature higher than the highest melting point of the lipophilic gelling agent present in the composition.

[0138] According to a particular embodiment, the extrusion method 2 can be performed by 3D printing technology.

[0139] use

[0140] The composition according to the invention is used for the hygiene and / or beautification of keratin substances, more particularly for the hygiene and / or beautification of the skin and / or hair.

[0141] More specifically, the composition according to the invention is used for the hygiene of keratinous substances, more specifically for the hygiene of the skin and / or hair, for example toothpaste, deodorants, shower gels, intimate cleansing gels, soaps, detergents, mouthwashes, hair coloring products (hair dyes and bleaches), hair care products, cleaning products, shaving and depilatory products (such as aftershaves, depilatory creams and shaving creams), bath and shower preparations (such as bath foams, bath oils and bath salts). Preferably, the solid composition according to the invention is a soap and / or a detergent.

[0142] Advantageously, the solid composition according to the invention is not in the form of a mask.

[0143] Advantageously, the solid composition according to the invention is intended to be brought into contact with an aqueous phase, more particularly with water, before, simultaneously with and / or after its application to the keratin substances to be treated.

[0144] Thus, according to a first embodiment, more particularly when the composition according to the invention is of the single-dose type, the contact with water is extemporaneous, ie just before use and / or simultaneously with application to wet keratin substances.

[0145] According to a second embodiment, when the composition according to the invention is not of the single-dose type, it comes into contact with water only during the first use and presupposes that the "solid composition / water" mixture is packaged in a suitable container. For obvious reasons, it requires a solid composition of suitable formulation and a sufficient amount of water to ensure the transition from the solid composition to a liquid composition, for example in the form of a gel. Therefore, it is also necessary to have at least one preservative in the solid composition to ensure that the liquid composition thus formed is well preserved over time.

[0146] Finally, the invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment method for the hygiene and beautification of keratinous materials, more particularly the skin and / or the hair, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratinous materials at least one composition as described above.

[0147] BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0148] Figure 1 A composition according to the invention is shown, having a parallelepiped shape with a cylindrical cavity. A is a side view, B is a top view.

[0149] Figure 2 An oval-shaped composition according to the present invention is shown with a cavity represented by the word "SOAP" (top view).

[0150] Figure 3 A composition according to the invention having honeycomb cavities is shown (top view).

[0151] Figure 4 A mold for use in the method of the present invention is shown.

[0152] Figure 5 A comparison die is shown.

[0153] Figure 6 Other examples of solid compositions according to the invention are shown. Example

[0154] Using a mixer and a water bath at 80°C, mix the raw materials in the order and amounts described in the table below until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.

[0155] name Weight(kg) Mutually water 85 A Pure caustic soda 35 A Coconut Oil 80 B Shea Butter 60 B olive oil 100 B Sweet almond oil 8 C total 368

[0156] Step 1 - Manufacturing:

[0157] - In a first container, water and caustic soda are mixed (=mixture A);

[0158] - In a second container, melt the coconut oil and shea butter in a water bath (70° C.) and mix, then add the olive oil and mix until homogeneity is achieved (=mixture B);

[0159] - When the temperature of mixtures A and B is below 40°C, pour mixture A into mixture B, add sweet almond oil and mix until homogeneity is achieved (= mixture C)

[0160] - Mixture C is left to stand at ambient temperature for 48 hours. The pH of the composition is between 9 and 10.

[0161] Step 2 - Extrusion :

[0162] - injecting the mixture C obtained in step 1 into the provided extruder, which in the first case is equipped with Figure 4 The die according to the invention shown, in the second case, the extruder is equipped with Figure 5Comparative die shown;

[0163] - At the exit of the die, the extruded soap bars were cut individually to obtain the weights and volumes stated in Table 1 below.

[0164] - respectively obtain the honeycomb structure (soap 1, such as Figure 6 1) and single dose soaps in the form of comparative solid compositions (Soap 2 and Soap 3) having the same general shape as Soap 1 but without the cavity.

[0165]

[0166] Step 3 - Application :

[0167] Step 3 was conducted in a group consisting of 18 women and 18 men aged between 22 and 47 years old (hereinafter referred to as "testers"), and then formed into 3 groups, each consisting of 6 women and 6 men (Group A, Group B, and Group C).

[0168] For each group,

[0169] 3.1 / The test subject pours a cup containing 30cl of tap water onto their hands.

[0170] 3.2 / Then, the test subjects washed their hands with soap 1, 2 or 3.

[0171] 3.3 / The test subjects washed their hands with tap water and then dried their hands.

[0172] Each of the A, B, and C groups used soaps 1, 2, and 3, but in a different order.

[0173] In step 3, candidates evaluate the performance of soaps 1, 2, and 3 based on (i) gripping ability, (ii) lathering ability, and (iii) the state of the soap after use.

[0174] Scoring Criteria :

[0175] Scoring Criteria 0 1 2 Grabbing ability Satisfactory average value Difference Foaming ability high average value Insufficient Soap state after use disappear completely Some residue Maintaining the overall structure

[0176] The following table lists the mean results obtained for groups A, B and C, noting that the trends observed among the three groups are the same.

[0177]

[0178] For Classic Soaps 2 and 3, it can be observed that when the size is too small, the grip is poor and the handling is difficult, and when the product is too bulky, it is impossible to consume it completely during a single dose, which results in a lot of losses.

[0179] The soap 1 according to the invention can combine the advantages of the classic soaps 2 and 3 without their disadvantages.

[0180] Thanks to the presence of cavities in the content under consideration, the composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a solid composition capable of producing more foam with less material, while generating less losses and without affecting the properties related to grip.

[0181] Therefore, the solid composition according to the invention consumes less raw materials and is therefore ecologically and economically advantageous.

[0182] A study similar to the above study was also conducted using SYNDET (also known as "soap-free soap" or "dermatology stick") as described in the table below. The same results were obtained.

[0183] raw material weight% glycerin QSP* Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate 40 Croscarmellose Sodium 4 Cetyl Alcohol 13 Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate 2 total 100

[0184] * Appropriate amount

Claims

1. A solid cosmetic composition for the hygiene, cleaning and / or beautification of keratinous materials, said composition comprising at least one cavity such that said composition has a porosity greater than or equal to 20% by volume relative to the total volume of said solid composition.

2. The solid composition according to claim 1, wherein the porosity is greater than or equal to 30% by volume, preferably greater than or equal to 40% by volume, more particularly greater than or equal to 50% by volume, even greater than or equal to 60% by volume, more particularly greater than or equal to 70% by volume, most particularly greater than or equal to 80% by volume, relative to the total volume of the solid composition.

3. A solid composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the cavity is through-going.

4. A solid composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more identical or different cavities, preferably a plurality of identical or different cavities.

5. A solid composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the cavities are circular, rectangular, oval, triangular, polygonal, honeycomb, or in a tiled shape (or cut-out shape), such as a Voronoi diagram, preferably in a honeycomb shape.

6. A solid composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the ratio of the volume of the cavity to the total volume of the composition is between 0.2 and 0.9, preferably between 0.2 and 0.8, better still between 0.2 and 0.7, even between 0.2 and 0.

6.

7. A solid composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises at least one lipophilic gelling agent, preferably a thermosensitive lipophilic gelling agent, at least one oil and / or at least one detergent and mixtures thereof.

8. A solid composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition further comprises at least one aqueous phase dispersed in the solid composition, preferably in encapsulated form.

9. A solid composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition is a single dose composition.

10. The solid composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition is a composition for external use.

11. A method for producing a solid composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least the steps consisting of: (i) having a fatty phase obtainable in liquid or semi-liquid form, a phase derived from a saponification reaction and / or a phase comprising at least one synthetic detergent (or surfactant) (i.e. a SYNDET phase); (ii) casting the phase of step (i) into a mold and drying until a solid phase is obtained, (iii) cutting the solid phase into a desired shape, and (iv) forming a cavity, thereby obtaining a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10.

12. A method for producing a solid composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, comprising at least the steps of: (a) having a fatty phase obtainable in liquid or semi-liquid form, a phase derived from a saponification reaction and / or a phase comprising at least one synthetic detergent (or surfactant) (i.e. a SYNDET phase); (b) passing the phase of step (a) through an extrusion device equipped with a die (or extrusion grating) suitable for forming a solid rod shape, and (c) cutting the solid stick obtained in step (b), thereby obtaining the solid composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10.

13. Non-therapeutic method for the hygienic or beautifying cosmetic treatment of keratinous materials, more particularly the skin and / or the hair, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratinous materials at least one composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10.

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