Polyester, viscous mixture, preparation method thereof and cosmetic composition
By using a combination of oligomeric polyester produced by the condensation reaction of dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol and a biologically derived hydrocarbon compound in cosmetics, the problems of skin greasiness and luster reduction caused by structuring agents in the prior art are solved, and the effect of fine adjustment of consistency and retaining gloss is achieved.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN202380044488.5
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Applications(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2022-05-02
- Filing Date
- 2023-05-02
- Publication Date
- 2025-02-28
AI Technical Summary
Structural agents used in existing cosmetics, such as wax, can cause a greasy and matte appearance of the skin, and it is difficult to finely adjust the consistency of the product while maintaining or improving gloss properties.
By using oligomeric polyesters in cosmetics, specifically polyesters produced by the condensation reaction between dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol, combined with hydrocarbon compounds of biological origin, the viscosity and gloss of the product are adjusted.
It achieves fine adjustment of the consistency of the cosmetic while maintaining or improving the gloss, reducing the amount of other structuring agents used, and improving the natural index and biodegradability of the product.
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Abstract
Description
[0001] The present application relates to a viscous mixture comprising at least one polyester and at least one hydrocarbon compound of biological origin.
[0002] The application also relates to a process for preparing such a mixture.
[0003] It also relates to polyesters and a process for their preparation.
[0004] Furthermore, the invention relates to polyester compounds and cosmetic compositions comprising the mixtures according to the invention.
[0005] As part of this request, a number of definitions must be given.
[0006] Alkanes are saturated hydrocarbons consisting only of carbon and hydrogen atoms linked together by simple covalent bonds. n H 2n+2 .
[0007] A "straight chain alkane" is an alkane in which each carbon atom is bonded to no more than two carbon atoms.
[0008] "Branched chain alkanes" are alkanes in which some of the carbon atoms are linked to three or even four carbon atoms.
[0009] “C x An alkane is an alkane consisting of x carbon atoms and can be straight-chain or branched. For example, dodecane is C 12 Alkane.
[0010] "C>x alkane" is an alkane consisting of at least x+1 carbon atoms, and the alkane may be straight chain or branched. For example, dodecane is a C>10 straight chain alkane or a C12 alkane.
[0011] "C≥x alkane" is an alkane consisting of at least x carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched. For example, 2,3,6-trimethylheptane (CAS 4032-93-3) is a C≥10 alkane.
[0012] “C x -C y "Alkanes are alkanes consisting of x to y carbon atoms, and the alkanes may be straight-chain or branched. For example, C1-C2 alkanes are methane and ethane.
[0013] An "isoalkane" is a branched chain alkane comprising at least one carbon atom linked to at least three carbon atoms comprising a methyl group.
[0014] A "polyester" is a polymer the backbone of which consists of an alternating sequence of units derived from at least one dicarboxylic acid and from at least one alcohol comprising at least two hydroxyl functions, these units being linked together via ester functions.
[0015] A "hydrocarbon compound" is a chemical compound consisting essentially of carbon and hydrogen atoms.
[0016] The "Hydroxy Index" is the amount of free hydroxyl groups measured according to the method NF ISO 4629 4629-2. The Hydroxyl Index is expressed in mgKOH / g.
[0017] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "viscosity" refers to kinematic viscosity, which is the quotient of dynamic viscosity divided by density or fluid density. Kinematic viscosity is usually measured in centistokes (cSt) or mm 2 .s -1 express.
[0018] The term "mass percentage" refers to the ratio of the mass of the first compound to the total mass of the mixture or composition of compounds, converted into a percentage. For example, if 10 grams of compound y is present in a mixture z with a total mass of 100 grams, the mass percentage of y in z is 10%.
[0019] The polyesters according to the invention are characterised by their molecular mass, which is measured by the method known as Size Exclusion Chromatography (SEC) and which is expressed in g / mol.
[0020] The polyesters according to the invention are characterized by their chromaticity, which is determined by the APHA-HAZEN method according to ASTM D 1209 standard and is expressed as APHA.
[0021] A "biogenic" compound or organic composition is defined as one in which the organic carbon present in the compound or composition is 100% of plant origin as determined by radiocarbon analysis according to one of the following criteria: 14 C): ASTM D6866, EN16640 or EN 16785-1.
[0022] The "natural index" of an organic composition is the organic carbon of plant origin determined by radiocarbon analysis according to one of the following standards: 14 C) Percentage: ASTM D6866, EN 16640 or EN 16785-1.
[0023] In cosmetic or dermatological products, a fine control of the product structure or viscosity is essential for the intended application and represents one of the key elements of product appreciation by the user. For example, a lipstick, foundation or eye shadow must not run once applied to the skin, while a hair product such as a gel or serum must be able to be easily spread on the hair by the user.
[0024] Ingredients used to adjust the structural, thickening and gelling characteristics of cosmetic products include waxes, mineral fillers, especially based on silica, hydrophobic clays (such as bentonites), metal salts of fatty acids, fatty acid esters and sugars or oligosaccharide derivatives functionalized with fatty acids (such as dextran palmitate or sucrose esters).
[0025] Available structurants have disadvantages. For example, waxes can leave a greasy feel on the skin and result in a matte appearance with a loss of shine.
[0026] Therefore, structured products must allow a fine adjustment of the consistency of the product without negatively affecting the feel, durability and, in particular, coloration and gloss of the product. It is therefore necessary to provide structured products that are "spectateurs" to other characteristics of the product or, even better, that can improve these characteristics. Such products are very interesting because they can reduce the number of ingredients used in cosmetic compositions.
[0027] In recent years, polyesters derived from the condensation of naturally occurring fatty carboxylic acids and polyols have been recognized as being able to adjust the consistency of cosmetic products while maintaining or even improving properties such as gloss.
[0028] NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL sells LUSPLAN and LUSPLAN Oligomers derived from dilinoleic acid dimers and in particular esters of dilinoleic acid diol dimers are provided. These oligoesters, obtained by polycondensation in heptane solvent, have a pale yellow color and cannot replace thickeners or gelling agents due to their low viscosity. In addition, the commercial product LUSPLAN The hydroxyl number of the polyols is 50 to 55 mg KOH / g, which is therefore higher than that of the polyesters according to the invention.
[0029] L'OREAL has filed two patent applications, WO2013191302 and WO2018119762, in which cosmetic compositions comprising polyesters with a high hydroxyl index of the PLANDOOL G type are disclosed. These polyesters are obtained by condensation of acid dimers and alcohol dimers in the presence of monohydric alcohols (such as behenyl alcohol) and / or phytosterol derivatives. The presence of these agents makes it possible to convert some of the free hydroxyl groups resulting from the condensation reaction.
[0030] The same type of oligomers are disclosed in patent JP2018123117 in the name of NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL. These polyesters are obtained by condensation between acid dimers and diol dimers at high temperatures and at atmospheric pressure. The product thus obtained is subsequently diluted to 50w / w% in a mixture of liquid paraffin and ethylhexyl palmitate (in a ratio of 1: 1). On the other hand, the experimental conditions used in this patent application cannot make it possible to obtain final polyesters comparable to the polyesters of the present invention, because their polymerization rates will be lower, and therefore their hydroxyl index will be higher, because a larger amount of functional groups do not react, and therefore remain free.
[0031] CRODA also proposed polyesters derived in particular from fatty acids in patent applications EP1962790A1 and EP2004137A1. These polyesters are obtained by condensation of three reagents: dicarboxylic acids, polyols with 3 to 8 hydroxyl functional groups and C 16 -C 30 Monocarboxylic fatty acids.
[0032] The Applicant has also proposed polyesters obtained by condensation between dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol, available under the trade name Viscoplast 14436 H. These low-viscosity liquid polyesters are combined in particular with fats in patent application FR 2 931 670 A1 of the company L'OREAL.
[0033] The company NITTO DENKO CORPORATION presents in application EP2853573 the preparation of polyesters used in adhesive compositions for application to the skin after crosslinking with isocyanates. These polyesters are obtained by condensation between acid dimers and alcohol dimers. These condensations are at very low pressures and without elimination of water, and are preferably carried out in two stages, or at atmospheric pressure, but with distillation of the water generated during the reaction. The first stage is carried out at a temperature of 170° C. to 190° C., under a vacuum of 7 to 13 mbar, and the second stage is carried out at an even lower pressure (2 to 8 mbar) and at a temperature of 215° C. to 235° C. Unlike the polyesters according to the invention, it is necessary for them to have free hydroxyl functions to allow them to be crosslinked with isocyanate-type derivatives.
[0034] Polyesters obtained by condensation of fatty acids and fatty alcohols are of clear interest for the preparation of cosmetic compositions due to their biodegradable nature and potential as structurants.
[0035] Because of their low viscosity, their use has hitherto been limited, so that further lipophilic thickeners or gelling agents are used, in particular non-biodegradable synthetic polymers, such as polyorganosiloxanes or copolymers of the polystyrene / co(ethylene-propylene) or polystyrene / co(ethylene-butylene) type.
[0036] The increase in ingredients complicates the task of the formulator and requires extremely precise dosing of the latter in order to obtain the properties intended for the user and also to ensure the stability of these properties over time.
[0037] Surprisingly, it was shown that high-viscosity polyesters with a low hydroxyl index can be obtained by a condensation reaction in the presence of at least one hydrocarbon compound of bio-origin.
[0038] The mixture according to the invention comprising at least one polyester and at least one hydrocarbon compound of biological origin has a viscosity which makes it possible to limit or even eliminate the use of thickeners or gelling agents in cosmetic compositions.
[0039] Furthermore, the process for preparing the mixture according to the invention allows the preparation of cosmetic compositions having a natural index greater than or equal to 90%, more advantageously greater than or equal to 95%.
[0040] The present invention relates to a mixture comprising:
[0041] (a) at least one polyester produced by the reaction of at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer with at least one alcohol having at least two hydroxyl functional groups, the at least one polyester having a viscosity of at least 200,000 cSt at 40°C and a hydroxyl index of less than 30 mg KOH / g.
[0042] (b) at least one hydrocarbon compound of biological origin.
[0043] In one embodiment, the polyester has a viscosity of at least 500,000 cSt at 40°C and a hydroxyl number of less than 30 mg KOH / g.
[0044] In one embodiment, the polyester has a viscosity of at least 1,000,000 cSt at 40°C and a hydroxyl number of less than 30 mg KOH / g.
[0045] In one embodiment, the polyester has a viscosity of at least 200,000 cSt at 40°C and a hydroxyl number of less than 15 mg KOH / g.
[0046] In one embodiment, the polyester has a viscosity of at least 500,000 cSt at 40°C and a hydroxyl number of less than 15 mg KOH / g.
[0047] In one embodiment, the polyester has a viscosity of at least 1,000,000 cSt at 40°C and a hydroxyl number of less than 15 mg KOH / g.
[0048] The present invention also relates to polyesters produced from the reaction of at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer and at least one alcohol with at least two hydroxyl functional groups, the at least one polyester having a viscosity of at least 200,000 cSt at 40°C and a hydroxyl index of less than 30 mg KOH / g.
[0049] In one embodiment, the polyester has a viscosity of at least 500,000 cSt at 40°C and a hydroxyl number of less than 30 mg KOH / g.
[0050] In one embodiment, the polyester has a viscosity of at least 1,000,000 cSt at 40°C and a hydroxyl number of less than 30 mg KOH / g.
[0051] In one embodiment, the polyester has a viscosity of at least 200,000 cSt at 40°C and a hydroxyl number of less than 15 mg KOH / g.
[0052] In one embodiment, the polyester has a viscosity of at least 500,000 cSt at 40°C and a hydroxyl number of less than 15 mg KOH / g.
[0053] In one embodiment, the polyester has a viscosity of at least 1,000,000 cSt at 40°C and a hydroxyl number of less than 15 mg KOH / g.
[0054] In the context of the present invention, the polyester according to the invention is not liquid: it cannot flow under its own weight at 25°C.
[0055] The polyesters according to the present invention have a viscosity of at least 1,000,000 cSt at 40°C and a hydroxyl number of less than 15 mgKOH / g.
[0056] In one embodiment, the polyesters according to the present invention have a viscosity of at least 1,000,000 cSt at 40°C and a hydroxyl number of less than 10 mg KOH / g.
[0057] In one embodiment, the polyesters according to the present invention have a viscosity of at least 1,000,000 cSt at 40°C and a hydroxyl number of less than 5 mg KOH / g.
[0058] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the present invention has a viscosity at 40°C greater than or equal to 2,000,000 cSt and a hydroxyl number less than 15 mg KOH / g.
[0059] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the present invention has a viscosity at 40°C greater than or equal to 2,000,000 cSt and a hydroxyl number less than 10 mg KOH / g.
[0060] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the present invention has a viscosity at 40°C greater than or equal to 2,000,000 cSt and a hydroxyl number less than 5 mg KOH / g.
[0061] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the present invention has a viscosity at 40°C greater than or equal to 4,000,000 cSt and a hydroxyl number less than 15 mg KOH / g.
[0062] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the present invention has a viscosity at 40°C greater than or equal to 4,000,000 cSt and a hydroxyl number less than 10 mg KOH / g.
[0063] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the present invention has a viscosity at 40°C greater than or equal to 4,000,000 cSt and a hydroxyl number less than 5 mg KOH / g.
[0064] In one embodiment, the polyesters according to the present invention have an average molecular weight greater than or equal to 100,000 g / mol.
[0065] In one embodiment, the polyesters according to the present invention have an average molecular weight greater than, or equal to, 105,000 g / mol.
[0066] In one embodiment, the polyesters according to the present invention have an average molecular weight greater than or equal to 110,000 g / mol.
[0067] In one embodiment, the average molecular weight of the polyesters according to the present invention is greater than, or equal to, 115,000 g / mol.
[0068] In one embodiment, the average molecular weight of the polyesters according to the present invention is greater than or equal to 120,000 g / mol.
[0069] In one embodiment, the polyesters according to the present invention have an average molecular weight of 100,000 to 200,000 g / mol.
[0070] In one embodiment, the polyesters according to the present invention have an average molecular weight of 100,000 to 200,000 g / mol.
[0071] In one embodiment, the polyesters according to the present invention have an average molecular weight of 100,000 to 200,000 g / mol.
[0072] In one embodiment, the polyesters according to the invention have a coloration of less than or equal to 200 on the APHA scale.
[0073] In one embodiment, the polyesters according to the invention have a coloration of less than or equal to 175 on the APHA scale.
[0074] In one embodiment, the polyesters according to the invention have a coloration of less than or equal to 150 on the APHA scale.
[0075] In one embodiment, the polyesters according to the invention have a coloration of less than or equal to 125 on the APHA scale.
[0076] In one embodiment, the polyesters according to the invention have a coloration of less than or equal to 100 on the APHA scale.
[0077] In one embodiment, the polyesters according to the invention have a coloration of less than or equal to 75 on the APHA scale.
[0078] In a preferred embodiment, the polyesters according to the invention have a coloration of less than or equal to 50 on the APHA scale.
[0079] The polyesters according to the invention result from the reaction of at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer with at least one alcohol having at least two hydroxyl functions.
[0080] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention is produced by the reaction of at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer with at least one alcohol having at least two hydroxyl functional groups in the absence of at least one monohydric alcohol.
[0081] In a preferred embodiment, the polyester according to the invention is produced by the reaction of at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer with at least one alcohol carrying at least two hydroxyl functions in the absence of behenyl alcohol and / or phytosterols.
[0082] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "reaction" means a condensation reaction.
[0083] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention originates from the reaction between at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer of plant origin and at least one alcohol of plant origin carrying at least two hydroxyl functional groups.
[0084] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention is derived from the reaction between a dicarboxylic acid dimer of vegetable origin and an alcohol of vegetable origin bearing two hydroxyl functional groups.
[0085] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention is derived from the reaction between a dicarboxylic acid dimer of plant origin and two alcohols of plant origin carrying two hydroxyl functional groups.
[0086] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention results from the reaction of at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer with at least one alcohol bearing two hydroxyl functions.
[0087] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention results from the reaction of at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer with an alcohol carrying at least two hydroxyl functions.
[0088] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention results from the reaction of at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer with an alcohol carrying two hydroxyl functions.
[0089] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention results from the reaction of at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer with at least one alcohol having 3 to 8 hydroxyl functions.
[0090] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention results from the reaction of at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer with an alcohol having 3 to 8 hydroxyl functions.
[0091] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention results from the reaction of at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer with at least two alcohols carrying at least two hydroxyl functional groups.
[0092] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention results from the reaction of at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer with at least two alcohols carrying two hydroxyl functional groups.
[0093] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention results from the reaction of at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer with two alcohols carrying at least two hydroxyl functions.
[0094] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention results from the reaction between at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer and two alcohols carrying two hydroxyl functions.
[0095] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention results from the reaction of a dicarboxylic acid dimer with at least one alcohol having two hydroxyl functions.
[0096] In one embodiment, the polyesters according to the invention are produced from the reaction between a dicarboxylic acid dimer and an alcohol having at least two hydroxyl functions.
[0097] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention results from the reaction between a dicarboxylic acid dimer and an alcohol carrying two hydroxyl functions.
[0098] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention results from the reaction of a dicarboxylic acid dimer with at least one alcohol having 3 to 8 hydroxyl functions.
[0099] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention is derived from the reaction between a dicarboxylic acid dimer and an alcohol having 3 to 8 hydroxyl functions.
[0100] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention results from the reaction between a dicarboxylic acid dimer and at least two alcohols carrying at least two hydroxyl functional groups.
[0101] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention results from the reaction of a dicarboxylic acid dimer with at least two alcohols carrying two hydroxyl functions.
[0102] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention results from the reaction between a dicarboxylic acid dimer and two alcohols carrying at least two hydroxyl functions.
[0103] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention results from the reaction between a dicarboxylic acid dimer and two alcohols carrying two hydroxyl functions.
[0104] Dicarboxylic acid dimers are understood to mean compounds which are obtained by a process comprising a dimerization reaction of compounds carrying a carboxylic acid function.
[0105] Therefore, at least one C n Dicarboxylic acid dimers are obtained by including n = 2 × m C m The compound is obtained by the dimerization step.
[0106] At least one dicarboxylic acid dimer is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C8-C 44 Hydrocarbon compounds which may contain one or more rings and carry two carboxylic acid functional groups.
[0107] In one embodiment, the dicarboxylic acid dimer is selected from dicarboxylic acid dimers of plant origin.
[0108] In one embodiment, the dicarboxylic acid dimer is selected from unsaturated dicarboxylic acid dimers.
[0109] In a preferred embodiment, the dicarboxylic acid dimer is selected from saturated dicarboxylic acid dimers.
[0110] In one embodiment, the dicarboxylic acid dimer is C 28 -C 44 Compound.
[0111] In one embodiment, the dicarboxylic acid dimer is C 36 Compound.
[0112] In one embodiment, the dicarboxylic acid dimer is a C ester derived from oleic acid, linoleic acid and / or linolenic acid. 36 Compound.
[0113] In one embodiment, the dicarboxylic acid dimer is a C ester derived from oleic acid, linoleic acid and / or linolenic acid. 36 Unsaturated compounds.
[0114] In one embodiment, the dicarboxylic acid dimer is a C ester derived from oleic acid, linoleic acid and / or linolenic acid. 36 Saturated compounds.
[0115] In one embodiment, the dicarboxylic acid dimer is selected from the products sold under the following trademarks: 36 Compounds: Empol 1008, Pripol 1013, Pripol 1009, Jaric D60, Jaric D70, Jaric D75, Jaric D76, Radiacid 0960, Radiacid 0975, Radiacid 0976, Radiacid 0977 and Radiacid 0978.
[0116] In one embodiment, C 36 Dicarboxylic acid dimer is a compound with CAS number 68783-41-5.
[0117] In one embodiment, C 36 The dicarboxylic acid dimer is sold under the trade name Pripol 1009.
[0118] Known C 36 Commercial products of dicarboxylic acid dimers may also include small amounts of C 18 (“monomer”) and C 36 ("trimer").
[0119] In one embodiment, the dicarboxylic acid dimer is C 44 Compound.
[0120] In one embodiment, the dicarboxylic acid dimer is C derived from a euric acid. 44 Unsaturated compounds.
[0121] In one embodiment, the dicarboxylic acid dimer is C derived from a euric acid. 44 Saturated compounds.
[0122] In one embodiment, the dicarboxylic acid dimer is selected from the products sold under the trademarks Pripol 1004 and Radiacid 0994. 44 Compound.
[0123] Known C 44 The dicarboxylic acid dimer product may also include a small amount of C 22 (“monomer”) and C 66("trimer").
[0124] The at least one alcohol used in the reaction allowing the polyester according to the invention to be obtained is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C2-C 44 Hydrocarbon compounds which may contain one or more rings and carry at least 2 hydroxyl functions.
[0125] In one embodiment, at least one alcohol is a saturated straight chain alcohol.
[0126] In one embodiment, at least one alcohol is a linear unsaturated alcohol.
[0127] In one embodiment, at least one alcohol is a saturated branched chain alcohol.
[0128] In one embodiment, at least one alcohol is an unsaturated branched chain alcohol.
[0129] In one embodiment, at least one alcohol is a plant-based alcohol.
[0130] In one embodiment, the at least one alcohol is an alcohol with two hydroxyl functional groups.
[0131] In one embodiment, at least one alcohol is an alcohol with two hydroxyl functions selected from the group consisting of 1,3-propylene glycol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,6-hexanediol and (9Z,12Z)-18-[(6Z,9Z)-18-hydroxyoctadec-6,9-dienyloxy]octadeca-9,12-dien-1-ol (CAS 147853-32-5), alone or as a mixture.
[0132] In one embodiment, at least one alcohol is an alcohol with two hydroxyl functional groups selected from the group consisting of 1,3-propylene glycol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol and (9Z,12Z)-18-[(6Z,9Z)-18-hydroxyoctadeca-6,9-dienyloxy]octadeca-9,12-dien-1-ol (CAS 147853-32-5).
[0133] In one embodiment, the at least one alcohol is 1,3-propylene glycol.
[0134] In one embodiment, the at least one alcohol is 1,4-butanediol.
[0135] In one embodiment, the at least one alcohol is 1,5-pentanediol.
[0136] In one embodiment, at least one alcohol is (9Z,12Z)-18-[(6Z,9Z)-18-hydroxyoctadeca-6,9-dienyloxy]octadeca-9,12-dien-1-ol (CAS 147853-32-5).
[0137] In one embodiment, the at least one alcohol having two hydroxyl functional groups is the commercial product under the trademark Pripol 2033.
[0138] In one embodiment, the at least one alcohol is a mixture of at least two alcohols.
[0139] In one embodiment, the at least one alcohol is a mixture of at least two alcohols selected from the group consisting of 1,3-propylene glycol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,6-hexanediol and (9Z,12Z)-18-[(6Z,9Z)-18-hydroxyoctadeca-6,9-dienyloxy]octadeca-9,12-dien-1-ol (CAS 147853-32-5).
[0140] In one embodiment, the at least one alcohol is a mixture of two alcohols.
[0141] In one embodiment, the at least one alcohol is a mixture of two linear alcohols.
[0142] In one embodiment, the at least one alcohol is a mixture of straight chain alcohols and branched chain alcohols.
[0143] In one embodiment, the at least one alcohol is a mixture of two branched chain alcohols.
[0144] In one embodiment, the at least one alcohol is a mixture of two saturated alcohols.
[0145] In one embodiment, the at least one alcohol is a saturated alcohol and a mixture of saturated alcohols.
[0146] In one embodiment, the at least one alcohol is a mixture of two saturated alcohols.
[0147] In one embodiment, the at least one alcohol is a mixture of two alcohols selected from the group consisting of 1,3-propylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,4-butylene glycol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,6-hexanediol and (9Z,12Z)-18-[(6Z,9Z)-18-hydroxyoctadeca-6,9-dienyloxy]octadeca-9,12-dien-1-ol (CAS 147853-32-5).
[0148] In one embodiment, the at least one alcohol is a mixture of 1,4-butanediol and (9Z,12Z)-18-[(6Z,9Z)-18-hydroxyoctadeca-6,9-dienyloxy]octadeca-9,12-dien-1-ol (CAS 147853-32-5).
[0149] In one embodiment, the at least one alcohol is chosen from alcohols having 3 to 8 hydroxyl functional groups.
[0150] In one embodiment, the at least one alcohol is an alcohol with 3 to 8 hydroxyl functional groups selected from the group consisting of glycerol, threitol, erythritol, inositol, arabitol, xylitol and sorbitol.
[0151] In one embodiment, the at least one alcohol is a mixture of alcohols having 3 to 8 hydroxyl functional groups.
[0152] In one embodiment, the at least one alcohol is a mixture of sorbitol and glycerol.
[0153] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention is produced by the reaction of saturated dicarboxylic acid dimers derived from oleic acid, linoleic acid and / or linolenic acid with at least one alcohol carrying two hydroxyl functions.
[0154] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention originates from the reaction between a saturated dicarboxylic acid dimer derived from oleic acid, linoleic acid and / or linolenic acid and an alcohol carrying at least two hydroxyl functions.
[0155] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention originates from the reaction between a saturated dicarboxylic acid dimer derived from oleic acid, linoleic acid and / or linolenic acid and an alcohol carrying two hydroxyl functions.
[0156] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention is derived from the reaction between a saturated dicarboxylic acid dimer derived from oleic acid, linoleic acid and / or linolenic acid and (9Z,12Z)-18-[(6Z,9Z)-18-hydroxyoctadec-6,9-dienyloxy]octadeca-9,12-dien-1-ol (CAS 147853-32-5).
[0157] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention originates from the reaction between saturated dicarboxylic acid dimers derived from oleic acid, linoleic acid and / or linolenic acid and 1,3-propanediol.
[0158] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention originates from the reaction between saturated dicarboxylic acid dimers derived from oleic acid, linoleic acid and / or linolenic acid and 1,4-propanediol.
[0159] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention originates from the reaction between saturated dicarboxylic acid dimers derived from oleic acid, linoleic acid and / or linolenic acid and 1,5-pentanediol.
[0160] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention originates from the reaction between saturated dicarboxylic acid dimers derived from oleic acid, linoleic acid and / or linolenic acid and at least one alcohol having 3 to 8 hydroxyl functions.
[0161] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention originates from the reaction between saturated dicarboxylic acid dimers derived from oleic acid, linoleic acid and / or linolenic acid and alcohols having 3 to 8 hydroxyl functions.
[0162] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention is produced by the reaction of saturated dicarboxylic acid dimers derived from oleic acid, linoleic acid and / or linolenic acid with at least two alcohols carrying at least two hydroxyl functions.
[0163] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention originates from the reaction between saturated dicarboxylic acid dimers derived from oleic acid, linoleic acid and / or linolenic acid and at least two alcohols carrying two hydroxyl functions.
[0164] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention is produced from the reaction of saturated dicarboxylic acid dimers derived from oleic acid, linoleic acid and / or linolenic acid with two alcohols carrying at least two hydroxyl functions.
[0165] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention originates from the reaction between a saturated dicarboxylic acid dimer derived from oleic acid, linoleic acid and / or linolenic acid and two alcohols carrying two hydroxyl functions.
[0166] In one embodiment, the polyester according to the invention is derived from the reaction between saturated dicarboxylic acid dimers derived from oleic acid, linoleic acid and / or linolenic acid with 1,4-butanediol and (9Z,12Z)-18-[(6Z,9Z)-18-hydroxyoctadec-6,9-dienyloxy]octadeca-9,12-dien-1-ol (CAS 147853-32-5).
[0167] The term "hydrocarbon compound of biogenic origin" means a compound formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms and possibly oxygen and nitrogen atoms, characterized in that the organic carbon present in the compound is 100% of plant origin as determined by radiocarbon analysis according to one of the following criteria: 14 C): ASTM D6866, EN 16640 or EN 16785-1.
[0168] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one hydrocarbon compound of biological origin present in the mixture according to the invention consists exclusively of carbon and hydrogen atoms.
[0169] The at least one hydrocarbon compound of biological origin present in the mixture according to the invention comprises at least 12 carbon atoms.
[0170] In one embodiment, at least one hydrocarbon compound of biological origin present in the mixture according to the invention comprises at least 16 carbon atoms.
[0171] In one embodiment, at least one hydrocarbon compound of biological origin present in the mixture according to the invention comprises at least 22 carbon atoms.
[0172] In one embodiment, at least one hydrocarbon compound of biological origin present in the mixture according to the invention comprises at least 30 carbon atoms.
[0173] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention comprises hydrocarbon compounds of biological origin.
[0174] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention comprises two hydrocarbon compounds of biological origin.
[0175] In one embodiment, the at least one hydrocarbon compound of biological origin present in the mixture according to the invention is chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkanes.
[0176] In one embodiment, the at least one hydrocarbon compound of biological origin present in the mixture according to the invention is chosen from saturated linear alkanes.
[0177] In one embodiment, the at least one hydrocarbon compound of biological origin present in the mixture according to the invention is chosen from saturated branched alkanes.
[0178] In one embodiment, the at least one hydrocarbon compound of biological origin present in the mixture according to the invention is chosen from unsaturated linear alkanes.
[0179] In one embodiment, the at least one hydrocarbon compound of biological origin present in the mixture according to the invention is chosen from unsaturated branched alkanes.
[0180] In one embodiment, at least one hydrocarbon compound of biological origin present in the mixture according to the invention is a non-volatile compound.
[0181] In one embodiment, at least one hydrocarbon compound of biological origin present in the mixture according to the invention has a flash point greater than 110° C., measured according to the ATSM D93 standard.
[0182] In one embodiment, the at least one hydrocarbon compound of bioorigin present in the mixture according to the invention is chosen from squalane and squalene.
[0183] In one embodiment, at least one hydrocarbon compound of bioorigin present in the mixture according to the invention is squalane.
[0184] In one embodiment, at least one hydrocarbon compound of bioorigin present in the mixture according to the invention is squalene.
[0185] In one embodiment, at least one hydrocarbon compound of biological origin present in the mixture according to the invention is a mixture of alkanes.
[0186] In one embodiment, at least one hydrocarbon compound of biological origin present in the mixture according to the invention is C 16 -C 18 A mixture of alkanes.
[0187] Advantageously, the at least one hydrocarbon compound of biological origin present in the mixture according to the invention has a biodegradability according to the OECD 301F method of at least 60%.
[0188] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of at least one polyester is at least 50%, relative to the total mass of the mixture.
[0189] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of at least one polyester is between 50% and 95%, relative to the total mass of the mixture.
[0190] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of at least one polyester is between 50% and 70%, relative to the total mass of the mixture.
[0191] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of at least one polyester is between 60% and 80% relative to the total mass of the mixture.
[0192] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of at least one polyester is between 70% and 90% relative to the total mass of the mixture.
[0193] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of at least one polyester is between 75% and 95%, relative to the total mass of the mixture.
[0194] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by mass of at least one hydrocarbon compound of biological origin is at least 5% relative to the total mass of the mixture.
[0195] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of at least one hydrocarbon compound of biological origin is between 5% and 50% relative to the total mass of the mixture.
[0196] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of at least one hydrocarbon compound of biological origin is between 5% and 15% relative to the total mass of the mixture.
[0197] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of at least one hydrocarbon compound of biological origin is between 15% and 25% relative to the total mass of the mixture.
[0198] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of at least one hydrocarbon compound of biological origin is between 25% and 35% relative to the total mass of the mixture.
[0199] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of at least one hydrocarbon compound of biological origin is between 35% and 50% relative to the total mass of the mixture.
[0200] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises at least 50% by mass of at least one polyester and at least 10% by mass of at least one hydrocarbon compound of bioorigin.
[0201] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises at least 50% by mass of at least one polyester and at least 20% by mass of at least one hydrocarbon compound of bioorigin.
[0202] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises at least 50% by mass of at least one polyester and at least 30% by mass of at least one hydrocarbon compound of bioorigin.
[0203] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises at least 60% by mass of at least one polyester and at least 10% by mass of at least one hydrocarbon compound of bioorigin.
[0204] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises at least 70% by mass of at least one polyester and at least 10% by mass of at least one hydrocarbon compound of bioorigin.
[0205] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises 50% by mass of at least one polyester and 50% by mass of at least one hydrocarbon compound of bioorigin.
[0206] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises 60% by mass of at least one polyester and 40% by mass of at least one hydrocarbon compound of bioorigin.
[0207] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises 70% by mass of at least one polyester and 30% by mass of at least one hydrocarbon compound of bioorigin.
[0208] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises 80% by mass of at least one polyester and 20% by mass of at least one hydrocarbon compound of bioorigin.
[0209] The invention also relates to a process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention, characterised in that it comprises the following steps:
[0210] a) obtaining at least one carboxylic acid dimer,
[0211] b) obtaining at least one alcohol having at least two hydroxyl functions,
[0212] c) obtaining at least one hydrocarbon compound of biological origin,
[0213] d) mixing the compounds from steps a), b) and c),
[0214] e) reducing the pressure of the mixture to a pressure of 900 to 10 mbar,
[0215] f) gradually heating the mixture to a target temperature of 150°C to 250°C,
[0216] g) continuous removal of the water formed during the condensation reaction,
[0217] h) obtaining a mixture comprising polyester and hydrocarbon compounds of biological origin, characterised in that the compounds of steps a), b) and c) can be mixed in any order during step d).
[0218] The invention also relates to a process for obtaining the polyester according to the invention, characterised in that it comprises the following steps:
[0219] a) obtaining at least one carboxylic acid dimer,
[0220] b) obtaining at least one alcohol having at least two hydroxyl functions,
[0221] c) mixing the compounds from steps a), b) and c),
[0222] d) reducing the pressure of the mixture to a pressure of 900 to 10 mbar,
[0223] e) gradually heating the mixture to a target temperature of 150°C to 250°C,
[0224] f) continuously removing the water formed during the condensation reaction,
[0225] g) obtaining a polyester,
[0226] It is characterized in that the compounds of steps a) and b) can be mixed in any order during step d).
[0227] In one embodiment, the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that it does not use monohydric alcohols.
[0228] In a preferred embodiment, the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that it does not use behenyl alcohol and / or phytosterols.
[0229] In one embodiment, at least one catalyst is added during step d) of the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention.
[0230] In one embodiment, the at least one catalyst added during step d) is chosen from base-type catalysts.
[0231] In one embodiment, at least one catalyst added during step d) is a base-type catalyst selected from the group consisting of hydroxides or carbonates of alkali metals, such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and potassium carbonate.
[0232] In one embodiment, the at least one catalyst added during step d) is chosen from acid-type catalysts.
[0233] In one embodiment, the at least one catalyst added during step d) is an acid-type catalyst selected from sulfonic acids such as p-toluenesulfonic acid, methanesulfonic acid and phosphoric acid or oxyphosphoric acids such as phosphoric acid and phosphorous acid.
[0234] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one catalyst added during step d) is methanesulfonic acid.
[0235] In one embodiment, the at least one catalyst added during step d) is selected from tin oxalate and tetrabutyl titanate.
[0236] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one catalyst added during step d) is tin oxalate.
[0237] In one embodiment, the mass of the at least one catalyst added during step d) is between 0.01% and 1% relative to the sum of the masses of the at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer and the at least one alcohol.
[0238] In one embodiment, the mass of the at least one catalyst added during step d) is between 0.01% and 0.5% relative to the sum of the masses of the at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer and the at least one alcohol.
[0239] In one embodiment, the mass of the at least one catalyst added during step d) is between 0.01% and 0.2% relative to the sum of the masses of the at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer and the at least one alcohol.
[0240] In one embodiment, the mass of the at least one catalyst added during step d) is between 0.01% and 0.1% relative to the sum of the masses of the at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer and the at least one alcohol.
[0241] In one embodiment, during step e) of the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention, the pressure is reduced to a pressure ranging from 10 mbar to 900 mbar.
[0242] In one embodiment, during step e) of the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention, the pressure is reduced to a pressure ranging from 10 mbar to 600 mbar.
[0243] In one embodiment, during step e) of the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention, the pressure is reduced to a pressure ranging from 10 mbar to 300 mbar.
[0244] In one embodiment, during step e) of the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention, the pressure is reduced to a pressure of 10 mbar.
[0245] In one embodiment, during step e) of the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention, the pressure is reduced to a pressure of 200 mbar.
[0246] In one embodiment, during step f) of the process for obtaining a mixture according to the invention, the mixture is gradually heated to the target temperature by following a temperature gradient.
[0247] In one embodiment, during step f) of the process for obtaining a mixture according to the invention, the mixture is gradually heated to the target temperature by carrying out a temperature step.
[0248] In one embodiment, during step f) of the process for obtaining a mixture, the mixture is gradually heated to a temperature ranging from 150°C to 170°C.
[0249] In one embodiment, during step f) of the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention, the mixture is gradually heated to a temperature ranging from 170°C to 190°C.
[0250] In one embodiment, during step f) of the process for obtaining a mixture according to the invention, the mixture is gradually heated to a temperature ranging from 190°C to 210°C.
[0251] In one embodiment, during step f) of the process for obtaining a mixture according to the invention, the mixture is gradually heated to a temperature ranging from 210°C to 230°C.
[0252] In one embodiment, during step f) of the process for obtaining a mixture according to the invention, the mixture is gradually heated to a temperature ranging from 230°C to 250°C.
[0253] In one embodiment, during step f) of the process for obtaining a mixture according to the invention, the mixture is gradually heated to a temperature of 160°C.
[0254] In one embodiment, during step f) of the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention, the mixture is gradually heated to a temperature of 170°C.
[0255] In one embodiment, during step f) of the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention, the mixture is gradually heated to a temperature of 180°C.
[0256] In one embodiment, during step f) of the process for obtaining a mixture according to the invention, the mixture is gradually heated to a temperature of 190°C.
[0257] In one embodiment, during step f) of the process for obtaining a mixture according to the invention, the mixture is gradually heated to a temperature of 200°C.
[0258] In one embodiment, during step f) of the process for obtaining a mixture according to the invention, the mixture is gradually heated to a temperature of 210°C.
[0259] In one embodiment, during step f) of the process for obtaining a mixture according to the invention, the mixture is gradually heated to a temperature of 220°C.
[0260] In one embodiment, during step f) of the process for obtaining a mixture according to the invention, the mixture is gradually heated to a temperature of 230°C.
[0261] In one embodiment, during step g) of the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention, an excess of at least one alcohol carrying at least two hydroxyl functions is also eliminated.
[0262] In one embodiment, the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that the alcohol carrying at least two hydroxyl functions is a diol.
[0263] In one embodiment, the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises the following steps:
[0264] a) obtaining a dicarboxylic acid dimer,
[0265] b) obtaining a diol,
[0266] c) obtaining hydrocarbon compounds of biological origin,
[0267] d) mixing the compounds from steps a), b) and c),
[0268] e) reducing the pressure of the mixture to a pressure of 900 to 10 mbar,
[0269] f) gradually heating the mixture to a target temperature of 150°C to 250°C,
[0270] g) continuous removal of the water formed during the condensation reaction,
[0271] h) obtaining a mixture comprising polyester and hydrocarbon compounds of biological origin, characterised in that the compounds of steps a), b) and c) can be mixed in any order during step d).
[0272] In one embodiment, the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises the following steps:
[0273] a) obtaining a dicarboxylic acid dimer,
[0274] b) obtaining a diol,
[0275] c) obtaining hydrocarbon compounds of biological origin,
[0276] d) mixing the compounds from steps a), b) and c),
[0277] e) reducing the pressure of the mixture to a pressure of 900 to 10 mbar,
[0278] f) gradually heating the mixture to a target temperature of 150°C to 250°C,
[0279] g) continuous removal of the water formed during the condensation reaction,
[0280] h) obtaining a mixture comprising polyester and hydrocarbon compounds of biological origin, characterized in that a catalyst is added during step d).
[0281] In one embodiment, the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises the following steps:
[0282] a) saturated dicarboxylic acid dimers are obtained from oleic acid, linoleic acid and / or linolenic acid,
[0283] b) obtaining (9Z,12Z)-18-[(6Z,9Z)-18-hydroxyoctadec-6,9-dienyloxy]octadec-9,12-dien-1-ol (CAS 147853-32-5),
[0284] c) obtaining squalane,
[0285] d) mixing the compounds from steps a), b) and c),
[0286] e) reducing the pressure of the mixture to a pressure of 10 mbar,
[0287] f) gradually heating the mixture to a temperature of 220°C,
[0288] g) continuously removing the water formed during the condensation reaction,
[0289] h) obtaining a mixture comprising polyester and squalane.
[0290] In one embodiment, the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises the following steps:
[0291] a) saturated dicarboxylic acid dimers are obtained from oleic acid, linoleic acid and / or linolenic acid,
[0292] b) obtaining (9Z,12Z)-18-[(6Z,9Z)-18-hydroxyoctadec-6,9-dienyloxy]octadec-9,12-dien-1-ol (CAS 147853-32-5),
[0293] c) obtaining squalene,
[0294] d) mixing the compounds from steps a), b) and c),
[0295] e) reducing the pressure of the mixture to a pressure of 10 mbar,
[0296] f) gradually heating the mixture to a temperature of 160°C,
[0297] g) continuously removing the water formed during the condensation reaction, adding methanesulfonic acid in step d), and
[0298] h) obtaining a mixture comprising polyester and squalene.
[0299] In one embodiment, the process for obtaining the mixture according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises the following steps:
[0300] a) saturated dicarboxylic acid dimers are obtained from oleic acid, linoleic acid and / or linolenic acid,
[0301] b) obtaining (9Z,12Z)-18-[(6Z,9Z)-18-hydroxyoctadec-6,9-dienyloxy]octadec-9,12-dien-1-ol (CAS 147853-32-5),
[0302] c) Get C 16 -C 18 A mixture of alkanes,
[0303] d) mixing the compounds from steps a), b) and c),
[0304] e) reducing the pressure of the mixture to a pressure of 200 mbar,
[0305] f) gradually heating the mixture to a temperature of 170°C,
[0306] g) continuously removing the water formed during the condensation reaction, adding oxalate in step d), and
[0307] h) obtaining a polyester and C 16 -C 18 A mixture of alkanes.
[0308] The invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a mixture according to the invention and at least one compound chosen from non-volatile oils, volatile oils, gloss oils, pasty fatty substances, gelling agents, film-forming polymers, waxes, antioxidants, pigments, dyes, surfactants, an aqueous phase, and mixtures thereof.
[0309] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises a mixture according to the invention and at least one non-volatile oil.
[0310] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-volatile oil" means an oil having a flash point higher than 110°C, measured according to the ATSM D93 standard.
[0311] These oils may be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.
[0312] These non-volatile oils may be hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils or fluorosilicone oils.
[0313] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil consisting essentially of carbon atoms, hydrogen atoms and optionally oxygen atoms and / or nitrogen atoms.
[0314] Among the hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of linear or branched alkanes of mineral or synthetic origin, for example linear or branched alkanes of 12 to 40 carbon atoms, (poly)esters and (poly)ethers, and in particular C2-C 24 (Preferably C6-C 20 ) acid (poly) esters, C6-C 20 Triglycerides of fatty acids, vegetable oils, dialkyl carbonates, branched and / or unsaturated fatty acids, branched and / or unsaturated fatty alcohols.
[0315] As regards the non-volatile silicone oil, it is chosen in particular from the group comprising phenylated silicone oils, non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes or derivatives of non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes, and mixtures thereof.
[0316] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the non-volatile oil is chosen from non-volatile linear or branched alkanes.
[0317] Preferably, the non-volatile oil is selected from linear or branched alkanes having from 12 to 40 carbon atoms.
[0318] Preferably, the non-volatile oil is of vegetable origin.
[0319] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the non-volatile oil is a vegetable hydrocarbon oil.
[0320] The vegetable hydrocarbon oil is in particular chosen from the group comprising wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, coconut, apricot, castor, corn, avocado, soybean, shea, olive, sweet almond oil, cotton, palm, macadamia, rapeseed, jojoba, hazelnut, alfalfa, pumpkin, black currant, winter squash, evening primrose, barley oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0321] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by mass of non-volatile oil is at least 5% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0322] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by mass of non-volatile oil is at least 10% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0323] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by mass of non-volatile oil is between 5% and 25% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0324] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by mass of non-volatile oil is between 5% and 15% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0325] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by mass of non-volatile oil is between 10% and 25% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0326] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises a mixture according to the invention and at least one volatile oil.
[0327] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil having a flash point below 110°C, measured according to the ATSM D93 standard.
[0328] These oils may be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.
[0329] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises a mixture according to the invention and at least one volatile oil of plant origin.
[0330] In one embodiment, the at least one volatile oil has a flash point measured according to ATSM D93 of less than 95°C.
[0331] In one embodiment, the at least one volatile oil has a flash point measured according to ATSM D93 of less than 55°C.
[0332] In one embodiment, the at least one volatile oil has a flash point measured according to the ATSM D93 standard of 40°C to 55°C.
[0333] In one embodiment, the at least one volatile oil has a flash point measured according to the ATSM D93 standard of 30°C to 40°C.
[0334] These volatile oils may be hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils or fluorosilicone oils.
[0335] Among these hydrocarbon oils, there can be mentioned straight-chain or branched C8-C 16 Alkanes, especially C8-C 16 Isoalkanes such as isodecane, isododecane and isohexadecane.
[0336] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises a mixture according to the invention and at least one branched C8-C 12 Volatile oils of alkanes.
[0337] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises a mixture according to the invention and at least one selected from branched C 10 Volatile oils of alkanes.
[0338] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises a mixture according to the invention and at least one volatile oil chosen from trimethylheptane.
[0339] For the purposes of the present invention, "trimethylheptane" means all C7 alkanes branched by three methyl groups.
[0340] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises a mixture according to the invention and at least one selected from branched C 10 Volatile oils of alkanes and straight-chain C>10 alkanes.
[0341] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises a mixture according to the invention and at least one volatile oil chosen from trimethylheptane and linear C>10 alkanes.
[0342] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises a mixture according to the invention and at least one volatile oil consisting of a mixture of at least one trimethylheptane and at least one linear C>10 alkane.
[0343] Among these hydrocarbon oils, branched C8-C 16 Esters, for example isohexyl pivalate.
[0344] Among these silicone oils, mention may be made of linear or cyclic silicone oils, for example linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes having from 3 to 7 silicon atoms.
[0345] Among these fluorinated oils, there can be mentioned fluorinated oils such as perfluoropolyethers, perfluoroalkanes (eg, perfluorodecalin, perfluoroadamantane) and fluorinated ester oils.
[0346] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by mass of volatile oil is at least 5% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0347] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by mass of volatile oil is at least 10% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0348] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by mass of volatile oil is at least 15% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0349] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by mass of volatile oil is at least 20% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0350] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by mass of volatile oil is at least 25% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0351] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by mass of volatile oil is at least 50% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0352] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of volatile oils is between 25% and 80% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0353] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of volatile oils is between 40% and 80% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0354] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by mass of volatile oils is between 25% and 60% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0355] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of volatile oils is between 30% and 50% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0356] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of volatile oils is between 40% and 60% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0357] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of volatile oils is between 60% and 80% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0358] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises a mixture according to the invention and at least one gloss oil.
[0359] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "luster oil" means an oil having intrinsic lustrous properties. "Lustrous oils" are frequently used in cosmetics to ensure a "glossy effect" when applying the cosmetic composition to keratinous substances, for example.
[0360] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the gloss oil is a non-volatile oil.
[0361] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the gloss oil is chosen from the group comprising:
[0362] - polymers, for example polybutene (especially those sold or manufactured by ATAMAN ), hydrogenated polyisobutylene, polydecene and hydrogenated polydecene, polyfarnesene, vinylpyrrolidone copolymers (especially the vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene copolymer ANTARON V sold or manufactured by ISP ).
[0363] - Esters, for example esters of straight-chain fatty acids having a total number of carbons greater than 30, aromatic esters, esters of branched fatty acids or fatty alcohols having 20 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0364] - ester copolymers, for example: dilinoleyl dimer / dilinoleate dimer (LUSPLAN and LUSPLAN ), dilinoleic acid / butylene glycol copolymer (VISCOPLAST ), dilinoleic acid / propylene glycol copolymer, and mixtures thereof.
[0365] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the sheen oil is of vegetable origin.
[0366] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by mass of gloss oil is at least 2% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0367] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by mass of gloss oil is at least 5% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0368] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of gloss oil is between 2% and 20% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0369] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of gloss oil is between 5% and 15% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0370] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of gloss oil is between 10% and 20% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0371] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of gloss oil is between 2% and 10% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0372] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of gloss oil is between 5% and 10% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0373] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises a mixture according to the invention and at least one pasty fatty substance.
[0374] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty fatty substance" means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change, which has a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at room temperature (25°C).
[0375] In other words, the melting temperature of the pasty fat is less than or equal to 25°C.
[0376] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the pasty fatty substance is chosen from the group comprising synthetic pasty fatty substances, animal pasty fatty substances, vegetable pasty fatty substances and mixtures thereof.
[0377] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the pasty fatty substance is a synthetic pasty fatty substance chosen from the group comprising polyol ethers, petrolatum, vinyl polymers, pentaerythritol esters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.
[0378] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the animal pasty fatty substance is lanolin.
[0379] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the pasty fatty substance is a vegetable pasty fatty substance.
[0380] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the vegetable paste fat body is chosen from the group comprising vegetable butters (avocado oil, shea butter), fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, and mixtures thereof.
[0381] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by mass of pasty fatty substance is between 0% and 20% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0382] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by mass of pasty fatty substance is between 0% and 15% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0383] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by mass of pasty fatty substance is between 0% and 10% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0384] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by mass of pasty fatty substance is between 0% and 5% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0385] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises a mixture according to the invention and at least one gelling agent.
[0386] For the purposes of the present invention, the term gelling agent means a compound that constitutes an excellent texturizing agent for balancing formulations in terms of smoothness and viscosity.
[0387] In addition, some gloss oils (such as VISCOPLAST ) and under the name LUSPLAN and LUSPLAN The commercially available compounds can also be used as gelling agents.
[0388] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the gelling agent is chosen from the group comprising organic gelling agents, mineral gelling agents, polymeric gelling agents, and mixtures thereof.
[0389] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the gelling agent is of plant origin.
[0390] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the gelling agent is an organic gelling agent chosen from the group comprising ethylcellulose and its derivatives, resins derived from rosin, dextrin esters, fatty acid esters, and mixtures thereof.
[0391] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the gelling agent is a mineral gelling agent chosen from the group comprising hectorite and its derivatives, pyrogenic silica and its derivatives, and mixtures thereof.
[0392] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the gelling agent is a polymeric gelling agent chosen from the group comprising organopolysiloxanes and derivatives thereof, dimethicone copolymers and derivatives thereof, polystyrene / polyisoprene copolymers, polystyrene / polybutadiene copolymers, polystyrene / co-(ethylene-propylene) copolymers, polystyrene / co-(ethylene-butylene) copolymers, mixtures of copolymers in isododecane (e.g. ethylene / propylene copolymers or butene / ethylene / styrene copolymers), polyesters and derivatives thereof, polyamide resins, and mixtures thereof.
[0393] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the gelling agent is dextrin palmitate or one of its derivatives.
[0394] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the gelling agent is BENTONEGEL ISD A modified hectorite of the type or one of its equivalents.
[0395] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the gelling agent is VEGELIGHTBENTONE SILK A modified hectorite of the type or one of its equivalents.
[0396] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the gelling agent is a modified hectorite of the disteardimethylammonium hectorite type associated with triethyl citrate.
[0397] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the gelling agent is a mixture of copolymers (for example ethylene / propylene copolymers) in isododecane.
[0398] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the gelling agent is a dimethicone polymer and is marketed by BIOSYNTHIS under the name VEGELIGHT SILK SI A combination of mixtures of alkanes sold, or one of their equivalents.
[0399] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by mass of gelling agent is at least 5% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0400] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by mass of gelling agent is at least 15% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0401] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the gelling agent is between 5% and 30% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0402] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the gelling agent is between 5% and 20% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0403] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the gelling agent is between 15% and 30% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0404] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of gelling agent is between 5% and 15% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0405] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of gelling agent is between 15% and 25% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0406] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the gelling agent is between 20% and 30% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0407] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises a mixture according to the invention and at least one film-forming polymer.
[0408] For the purposes of the present invention, the term film-forming polymer is taken to mean a polymer that is capable of forming a macroscopically continuous film, in particular on the lips within the framework of the present invention.
[0409] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the film-forming polymer is chosen from the group comprising acrylic polymers, polyurethanes, polyesters, polyamides, silicone polymers.
[0410] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the film-forming polymer is trimethylsiloxysilicate sold under the name TMS 803.
[0411] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by mass of film-forming polymer is at least 1% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0412] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by mass of film-forming polymer is at least 10% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0413] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by mass of film-forming polymer is between 1% and 25% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0414] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by mass of film-forming polymer is between 10% and 25% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0415] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by mass of film-forming polymer is between 1% and 10% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0416] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by mass of film-forming polymer is between 10% and 20% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0417] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises a mixture according to the invention and at least one wax.
[0418] Waxes play an important role in the design of cosmetic products, especially lipsticks, as they influence certain essential criteria such as texture, appearance and / or solidity of the product.
[0419] In the context of the present invention, the term "wax" means a lipophilic compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change. In other words, the compound is solid at room temperature (25°C) and has a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C.
[0420] Preferably, for the purposes of the present invention, the wax used has a melting point greater than or equal to 50°C.
[0421] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that at least one wax is chosen from synthetic waxes, mineral waxes, vegetable waxes and animal waxes.
[0422] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the wax is a mineral wax or a synthetic wax chosen from the group comprising microcrystalline wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite wax, polyethylene wax, silicone wax, fluorinated wax.
[0423] "Vegetable wax" means a composition comprising at least one partially or fully hydrogenated oil. These vegetable waxes may comprise esters of fatty acids and fatty alcohols, and may also comprise fatty acids, free fatty alcohols, long-chain linear alkanes and / or unsaponifiables.
[0424] Preferably, within the meaning of the present invention, the waxes used are vegetable waxes.
[0425] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the wax is a plant or animal wax chosen from the group comprising lanolin wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, berry wax, beeswax, sunflower wax, mimosa wax, jojoba wax, castor wax, olive wax.
[0426] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by mass of wax is at least 2% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0427] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by mass of wax is at least 5% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0428] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by mass of the wax is between 2% and 20% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0429] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by mass of wax is between 5% and 15% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0430] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by mass of the wax is between 2% and 10% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0431] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by mass of the wax is between 5% and 10% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0432] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises a mixture according to the invention and at least one antioxidant.
[0433] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the antioxidant is chosen from the group comprising BHA, BHT, DBPC, phenolic antioxidants of the gallate type, so-called natural antioxidants such as dl-α-tocopherol or its derivatives, plant extracts, binary lipopeptides such as lysine or arginine, and mixtures thereof.
[0434] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by mass of antioxidant is at least 0.01% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0435] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by mass of antioxidant is at least 0.1% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0436] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of antioxidant is between 0.01% and 2% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0437] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by mass of antioxidant is between 0.01% and 1% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0438] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of antioxidant is between 0.1% and 1% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0439] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of antioxidant is between 0.01% and 0.1% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0440] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises a mixture according to the invention and at least one pigment fraction.
[0441] The pigment part allows to obtain the coloring of the cosmetic composition. The pigments used are of synthetic, mineral or plant origin. Their dosage is also trace.
[0442] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the pigment part is chosen from the group comprising water-soluble dyes, fat-soluble dyes, pigments, nacres, glitters and mixtures thereof.
[0443] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the pigment part is chosen from the group comprising: organic pigments such as fixed pigments or precipitated pigments, mineral pigments such as titanium dioxide or iron oxides, sodium aluminosilicate thiosulfate, chromium oxide, bismuth oxychloride, copper phthalocyanine, metal-free phthalocyanine, copper phthalocyanine chloride.
[0444] Therefore, the titanium oxide rate determines the coverage and opacity of the film.
[0445] The use of lakes or precipitated pigments determines the color and chroma.
[0446] For purposes of illustration, other types of pigments may be used, such as titanium mica, borosilicates and their derivatives, mica, silica.
[0447] Mineral pigments are used to create nuances of color tone, while chemical compounds (such as bismuth oxychloride) can be used to impart specific effects (metallic-like effects, shimmering effects, etc.).
[0448] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the pigment part comprises a synthetic dye selected from the group comprising:
[0449] CI100006, CI12010, CI12085, CI12120, CI12370, CI12420, CI 12490, CI14270, CI14700, CI14720, CI14815, CI15525, CI15580, CI15620, CI15630, CI15850, CI15865, CI15 880, CI15980, CI15985, CI1035, CI16255, CI16290, CI17200, CI18050, CI45100, CI45220, CI45380, CI45430.
[0450] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the pigment part comprises a synthetic dye chosen from the group comprising CI77499, CI77267, CI77268, CI77499, CI77266, CI50420, CI27755, CI28440, CI20470 and mixtures thereof.
[0451] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the pigment part comprises a dye of plant origin chosen from dye-containing fruit and / or plant extracts.
[0452] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by mass of the pigment fraction is at least 0.01% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0453] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by mass of the pigment fraction is at least 1% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0454] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by mass of the pigment fraction is at least 5% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0455] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by mass of the pigment fraction is between 0.01% and 20% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0456] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by mass of the pigment fraction is between 1% and 20% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0457] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by mass of the pigment fraction is between 5% and 20% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0458] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by mass of the pigment fraction is between 1% and 15% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0459] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by mass of the pigment fraction is between 5% and 15% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0460] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by mass of the pigment fraction is between 0.01% and 5% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0461] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by mass of the pigment fraction is between 5% and 10% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0462] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by mass of the pigment fraction is between 10% and 15% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0463] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises a mixture according to the invention and at least one surfactant.
[0464] For the purposes of the present invention, a surfactant is understood to mean a compound that modifies the surface tension between two surfaces, phases. In general, these compounds are amphiphilic molecules and make it possible to dissolve two immiscible phases of a composition.
[0465] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that at least one surfactant is chosen from the group comprising nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants and amphoteric surfactants.
[0466] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that at least one surfactant is a nonionic surfactant.
[0467] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that at least one surfactant is chosen from the group of nonionic surfactants consisting of polyoxyalkylene alkyl ethers, glycerol alkyl ethers, glycerol fatty acid esters, polyglycerol fatty acid esters, sorbitan fatty acid esters, derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0468] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that at least one surfactant is an anionic surfactant.
[0469] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that at least one surfactant is an anionic surfactant chosen from alkyl phosphates, polyoxyalkylene alkyl ether phosphates, sulfonates, alkyl sulfates, polyaspartates, derivatives thereof and mixtures thereof.
[0470] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that at least one surfactant is an amphoteric surfactant.
[0471] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by mass of at least surfactant is at least 0.1% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0472] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the percentage by mass of at least surfactant is at least 5% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0473] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of at least one surfactant is between 0.1% and 30% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0474] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of at least one surfactant is between 5% and 15% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0475] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises a mixture according to the invention and at least one aqueous phase.
[0476] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the aqueous phase consists of water.
[0477] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the aqueous phase comprises water and at least one water-miscible organic solvent.
[0478] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the aqueous phase comprises at least one water-miscible organic solvent chosen from lower alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, butanol, isopentanol, glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, ketones and short-chain C2-C4 aldehydes.
[0479] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the aqueous phase is from 1% to 95% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0480] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the aqueous phase is between 5% and 80% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0481] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the aqueous phase is between 5% and 60% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0482] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the aqueous phase is between 1% and 50% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0483] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the aqueous phase is between 1% and 30% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0484] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the aqueous phase is between 10% and 40% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0485] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the aqueous phase is between 1% and 20% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
[0486] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it has greater than or equal to 80% carbon 14 ( 14 C) Natural index: ASTM D6866, EN 16640 or EN 16785-1.
[0487] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it has greater than or equal to 85% carbon 14 ( 14 C) Natural index: ASTM D6866, EN 16640 or EN 16785-1.
[0488] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it has greater than or equal to 90% carbon 14 ( 14 C) Natural index: ASTM D6866, EN 16640 or EN 16785-1.
[0489] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it has greater than or equal to 95% carbon 14 ( 14 C) Natural index: ASTM D6866, EN 16640 or EN 16785-1.
[0490] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that at least 85% by mass of its ingredients, relative to the total mass of the composition, are of biological origin.
[0491] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that at least 50% by mass of its ingredients, relative to the total mass of the composition, are of natural origin.
[0492] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that at least 75% by mass of its ingredients, relative to the total mass of the composition, are of natural origin.
[0493] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that at least 90% by mass of its ingredients, relative to the total mass of the composition, are of natural origin.
[0494] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that 50% by mass of its ingredients, relative to the total mass of the composition, are of natural origin.
[0495] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that 75% by mass of its ingredients, relative to the total mass of the composition, are of natural origin.
[0496] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that 90% by mass of its ingredients, relative to the total mass of the composition, are of natural origin.
[0497] The invention furthermore relates to the use of a mixture according to the invention for preparing a cosmetic composition for lipstick, long-lasting lipstick or lip gloss.
[0498] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "long-lasting" lipstick, also called "non-transfer" lipstick, means a lipstick that does not leave a streak, is waterproof and sometimes oil-proof.
[0499] Similarly, a "lip gloss" or "lip gloss" is a cosmetic product that makes the lips look shiny and / or moist, and sometimes tinted or even shimmery. Some of these lip glosses are transparent and can be applied over traditional lipstick to add a glossy effect.
[0500] Traditionally, according to the work Concept des products cosmétiques: la formulation by Anne-Marie PENSE-LHERITIER, published in 2014 by LAVOISIER, the composition of lipstick is built around the following pair:
[0501] - Matrix or support
[0502] -Pigment part
[0503] The matrix contains different types of ingredients selected mainly for their organoleptic properties:
[0504] -Solvents to facilitate application and maintenance;
[0505] - Oil to provide slip and ease of application;
[0506] - Wax to fix the consistency and hardness;
[0507] - Substances such as paste fats or gelling agents to adjust smoothness and ease of use.
[0508] Getting a lip balm is accomplished by finding a subtle balance between these various ingredients.
[0509] These ingredients can be supplemented with a variety of additives that provide specific properties: polymers, absorbent powders, stabilizing additives (antioxidants, preservatives, etc.), fragrances and active ingredients (where applicable).
[0510] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition for long-lasting lipstick or lip gloss comprising the mixture according to the invention exhibits excellent stability and remarkable cosmetic qualities, such as ease of application, water resistance, good staying power, intense and brilliant color.
[0511] The invention also relates to the use of a mixture according to the invention for preparing a cosmetic make-up composition for the eye area.
[0512] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention is used for the preparation of a cosmetic mascara or eyeliner composition.
[0513] Traditionally, according to the book Concept des products cosmétique: la formulation by Anne-Marie PENSE-LHERITIER, published in 2014 by LAVOISIER, there are two main types of mascara formulations:
[0514] -Continuous aqueous mascara, also known as "water-based mascara"
[0515] -Continuous oil phase mascara, also known as "waterproof mascara"
[0516] In one embodiment, the mixture according to the invention is used for preparing a cosmetic composition of a mascara having a continuous oily phase.
[0517] Continuous oil phase mascara is mainly based on the use of wax or continuous oil phase emulsion. The purpose is to form a continuous film on the surface of the eyelashes, which is completely waterproof.
[0518] To this end, the mascara composition comprises in particular an oil phase and a pigment part, and the composition may optionally comprise an aqueous phase.
[0519] In one embodiment, the mascara composition comprising the mixture according to the invention comprises a percentage of water less than or equal to 10% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0520] In a preferred embodiment, the mascara composition comprising the mixture according to the invention is free of an aqueous phase.
[0521] The fatty phase comprises, in particular, volatile solvents, oils, surfactants, waxes, gelling agents, film-forming polymers and preservatives.
[0522] The pigment part contains water-soluble dyes, fat-soluble dyes, pigments, pearlescent agents and glitter.
[0523] Getting a great mascara is accomplished by finding a delicate balance between these various ingredients.
[0524] These ingredients may be supplemented with a variety of additives that provide specific properties: polymers, absorbent powders, stabilizing additives (such as antioxidants), fragrances and active ingredients (where applicable).
[0525] Regarding eyeliner, its composition is similar to that of mascara developed above.
[0526] In one embodiment, a cosmetic composition for the eyes, such as a mascara or an eyeliner, comprising a mixture according to the invention has excellent stability and remarkable cosmetic qualities, such as ease of application, water resistance, good staying power and more intense color.
[0527] The invention also relates to the use of the mixtures according to the invention for preparing cosmetic compositions suitable for application to the skin.
[0528] In one embodiment, the mixtures according to the invention are used in particular for the preparation of cosmetic compositions, such as make-up primers or bases, blushers, eyeshadows, foundations or make-up removal preparations.
[0529] Foundation is a preparation designed to even out the skin and give it a slight tint. It must be applied in an even layer over a part of the face and neck but also allowing blending.
[0530] Similarly, we understand a primer, a primer or a makeup base as a cosmetic composition that blurs skin imperfections and prevents makeup from settling in wrinkles, pores during the day. This formulation thus allows the skin to be perfected before applying foundation, blush, etc.
[0531] Blush, also commonly called "blush," is a cosmetic preparation designed to imitate or intensify the appearance of "rosy cheeks."
[0532] Similarly, eye shadow, or "eyeshadow" in general, means a cosmetic preparation applied to the eyelids to highlight the eye by creating a contrast in color.
[0533] Makeup-removing preparations refer to make-up-removing oils, but also to dual-phase make-up-removing preparations that allow the make-up on the face to be cleansed while protecting the user's skin.
[0534] As mentioned above, these cleansing preparations may be in the form of cleansing oils composed of oils and various fatty substances.
[0535] They may also be present as a dual phase preparation comprising an aqueous phase and an oily phase.
[0536] Conventionally, the mixtures according to the invention are used to prepare cosmetic compositions suitable for use on the skin, in particular foundation and / or base compositions, which may be formulated in powder, loosely compacted or castable fluid or solid form.
[0537] These compositions may in particular, independently of one another, be present in anhydrous form or in the form of emulsions.
[0538] These emulsions can appear in different forms, namely in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, water-in-oil emulsions, but under certain conditions also in the form of multiple W / O / W (water / oil / water) or even O / W / O (oil / water / oil) emulsions combining at least one aqueous phase and one fatty phase.
[0539] In one embodiment, the mixtures according to the invention are used for preparing a cosmetic composition suitable for application to the skin comprising at least one aqueous phase and one fatty phase.
[0540] The aqueous phase consists mainly of water.
[0541] The fat phase contains different types of ingredients chosen mainly for their organoleptic properties:
[0542] -Solvents to facilitate application and maintenance;
[0543] - Oil to provide slip and ease of application;
[0544] - Wax to fix the consistency and hardness;
[0545] - Fatty substances such as pasty fats or gelling agents, to adjust smoothness and ease of application.
[0546] Typically, the mixtures according to the invention are used for the preparation of cosmetic compositions for application to the skin, said cosmetic compositions comprising a pigment part.
[0547] Obtaining a cosmetic composition that is suitable for use on the skin is achieved by finding a delicate balance between these various ingredients.
[0548] These ingredients can be supplemented with a variety of additives that provide specific properties: polymers, absorbent powders, stabilizing additives (antioxidants, preservatives, etc.), fragrances and active ingredients (where applicable).
[0549] In one embodiment, a cosmetic composition suitable for skin application (e.g. a primer or base, a foundation or a loose powder) comprising a mixture according to the invention has excellent stability and remarkable cosmetic properties, such as easy application, water resistance, good staying power, more intense and brilliant colors.
[0550] The invention also relates to the use of a mixture according to the invention for preparing a cosmetic composition for treating keratin fibres, in particular hair.
[0551] In one embodiment, the mixtures according to the invention are used for the preparation of cosmetic compositions for treating keratin fibers in the form of solutions, dispersions, oil / water emulsions, water / oil emulsions, water / oil / water emulsions, powders, talcs, sponges, mousses, lacquers and gels.
[0552] In one embodiment, the mixtures according to the invention are used for preparing a cosmetic composition for treating keratin fibers, such as hair color fixatives, hair dyes, hair styling products, shampoos, conditioners, conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hair care products, hair sprays, hair masks, hair care products, hair care products, permanent wave fixing solutions, hair shaping products, shampoos for colored hair, hair fixatives, hair holding products, hair styling preparations, leave-in hair care products, permanent wave washes, fixing mousses, hair gels, hair waxes or combinations thereof.
[0553] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition for treating keratin fibers, in particular hair, comprising the mixture according to the invention exhibits excellent stability and remarkable cosmetic properties, such as ease of application, good hold, brilliant color and intense shine.
[0554] The following examples are given to illustrate the present invention.
[0555] Methods for determining viscosity
[0556] The viscosity was determined using a Brookfield type automatic viscometer.
[0557] The type of movement and the speed of the movement are adapted to the measuring range.
[0558] The measurement result is the dynamic viscosity expressed in cP or mPa.s.
[0559] This value is divided by the density of the product to obtain the value in cSt or mm 2 .s -1 Represents the kinematic viscosity.
[0560] Method for determining the acid index
[0561] The amount of free acid was determined using the NF EN ISO 660 method.
[0562] Method for determining the hydroxyl index
[0563] The amount of free hydroxyl groups was determined using the NF ISO 4629 4629-2 method.
[0564] Method used to determine density
[0565] Density was measured using a Mettler Toledo DENSITO device. It is expressed in g.cm -3 express.
[0566] Methods for measuring refractive index
[0567] Refractive index was measured using an automatic device Model RFM330-M (Belligham and Stanley Ltd).
[0568] Example 1: Process for preparing the mixture according to the invention
[0569] 47.5 kg of diacid C was loaded into a 700 L reactor equipped with a heating system, stirring and vacuum system. 36 (Pripol 1009, Croda), 54 kg diol C 36 (Pripol 2033, Croda) and 41.4 kg of squalane (Squalive, Biosynthis).
[0570] The pressure was reduced to 10 mbar while the temperature of the stirred mixture was gradually increased to 220°C.
[0571] 5 kg of water were recovered by condensation during the esterification reaction.
[0572] The temperature of the reaction medium is then reduced to 100° C. and the pressure is restored to atmospheric pressure.
[0573] The obtained mixture (138 kg) consisted of 70% by mass of polyester and 30% by mass of squalane.
[0574] The mixture according to the invention has a viscosity of 384,515 cSt at 40°C, a density of 0.8699 at 40°C, an acid index of 0.34 mg KOH / g, a refractive index of 1.4775 at 20°C and a hydroxyl index of 10 mg KOH / g.
[0575] Example 2: Process for preparing the mixture according to the invention
[0576] 47.5 kg of diacid C was loaded into a 700 L reactor equipped with a heating system, stirring and vacuum system. 36 (Pripol 2009, Croda), 54 kg diol C 36 (Pripol 2033, Croda), 41.4 kg of squalene (phytosqualene ST, Biosynthis) and 0.1 kg of methanesulfonic acid.
[0577] The pressure was reduced to 10 mbar while the temperature of the stirred mixture was gradually increased to 160°C.
[0578] 5 kg of water were recovered by condensation during the esterification reaction.
[0579] The temperature of the reaction medium is then reduced to 100° C. and the pressure is restored to atmospheric pressure.
[0580] The obtained mixture (138 kg) consisted of 70% by mass of polyester and 30% by mass of squalene.
[0581] The mixture according to the invention has a viscosity of 266,007 cSt at 40°C, a density of 0.8699 at 40°C, an acid index of 0.81 mg KOH / g, a refractive index of 1.4906 at 20°C and a hydroxyl index of 10 mg KOH / g.
[0582] Example 3: Process for preparing the mixture according to the invention
[0583] 47.5 kg of diacid C was loaded into a 700 L reactor equipped with a heating system, stirring and vacuum system. 36 (Pripol 1009, Croda), 54 kg diol C 36 (Pripol 2033, Croda), 41.4kg C 16 -C 18 A mixture of alkanes (Vegelight 1618, Biosynthis) and 0.1 kg of tin oxalate.
[0584] The pressure was reduced to 200 mbar while the temperature of the stirred mixture was gradually increased to 170°C.
[0585] 5 kg of water were recovered by condensation during the esterification reaction.
[0586] The temperature of the reaction medium is then reduced to 100° C. and the pressure is restored to atmospheric pressure.
[0587] The resulting mixture (138 kg) consisted of 70% by mass of polyester and 30% by mass of C 16 -C 18 A mixture of alkanes.
[0588] The mixture according to the invention has a viscosity of 120080 cSt at 40°C, a density of 0.8436 at 40°C, an acid index of 0.20 mg KOH / g, a refractive index of 1.4697 at 20°C and a hydroxyl index of less than 10 mg KOH / g.
[0589] Example 4: Cosmetic hair serum composition comprising a mixture according to the invention
[0590] From the mixture according to the invention prepared according to the method described in Example 1, a cosmetic hair serum composition is prepared.
[0591] The mixture is composed of 70% by mass of polyester and 30% by mass of squalane, wherein the polyester is composed of diacid C 36 (Pripol 1009, Croda) and diol C 36 (Pripol 2033, Croda).
[0592] The detailed composition of the cosmetic hair serum preparation is given in the table below:
[0593] [Table 1]
[0594]
[0595] Disperse the ingredients of phase 1 in an Ultra-Turrax TM middle.
[0596] Then mix Phase 1 and Phase 2 to obtain the hair serum.
[0597] A cosmetic hair serum composition comprising the mixture according to the invention has the following characteristics: a refractive index of 1.4348 at 20°C and a viscosity of 33 cSt at 25°C.
[0598] Example 5: Cosmetic mascara composition comprising a mixture according to the invention
[0599] From the mixture according to the invention prepared according to the method described in Example 2, a cosmetic mascara composition was prepared.
[0600] The mixture is composed of 70% by mass of polyester and 30% by mass of squalene, wherein the polyester is composed of diacid C 36 (Pripol 1009, Croda) and diol C 36 (Pripol 2033, Croda).
[0601] The detailed composition of the cosmetic hair serum preparation is given in the table below:
[0602] [Table 2]
[0603]
[0604]
[0605]
[0606] The ingredients of Phase 1 are combined and the mixture is heated to a maximum of 40°C.
[0607] The ingredients of Phase 2 were mixed and heated to 60°C.
[0608] Add phase 2 to phase 1.
[0609] Phase 3 is then added to the mixture of phases 1 and 2.
[0610] Phase 4 is gradually added to the mixture of phases 1, 2 and 3 under vigorous stirring.
[0611] Finally, the ingredients from phase 5 are added to the mixture from phases 1, 2, 3 and 4.
[0612] Embodiment 6: Method for preparing super-adhesive Viscoplast.
[0613] Loading: 166 kg of diacid C in a 700 L reactor equipped with a heating system, stirring and vacuum system 36 (Pripol 1009 from CRODA), 30 kg 1,4-butanediol (1,4 BDO from BRENNTAG), 4 kg diol C 36 (Pripol 2033 from CRODA) and 2 kg of catalyst B which is tin oxalate.
[0614] The mixture was stirred and the pressure was gradually reduced to a pressure of 10 mbar.
[0615] The temperature was then gradually increased to 170°C.
[0616] During the esterification, 12 kg of water and excess BDO were evaporated.
[0617] The temperature was then lowered to 100°C, and the pressure was returned to atmospheric pressure.
[0618] The resulting mixture (200 kg) consisted of 100% super-viscous Viscoplast.
[0619] Superviscous Viscoplast has a molecular weight of 142,261 g / mol as measured by Size Exclusion Chromatography (SEC), and exhibits a viscosity of 500,000 cSt, a density of 0.9500 at 40°C, a hydroxyl index of 30 mg KOH / g, an acid index of 2.0 mg KOH / g, and a refractive index of 1.4853 at 20°C.
[0620] Example 7: Method for preparing super-adhesive viscoplast.
[0621] Loading: 166 kg of diacid C in a 300 L reactor equipped with a heating system, stirring and vacuum system 36 (pripol 1009 from croda), 27 kg of 1,4-butanediol (1,4BDO from brenntag) and 0.2 kg of acid catalyst A, which is methanesulfonic acid. The mixture is stirred and the pressure is gradually reduced to a pressure of 10 mbar. The temperature is then gradually increased to 170°C. During the esterification, 10.5 kg of water and excess BDO are evaporated. The temperature is then reduced to 100°C and the pressure is restored to atmospheric pressure. 182.7 kg of the reaction mixture is taken out and consists of 100% super-viscous viscoplast. The composition has the following characteristics: a viscosity of 1,600,000 cST, a density of 0.9500 at 40°C, an acid index of 1.7 mg KOH / g, and a refractive index of 1.4853 at 20°C.
[0622] In comparison, Viscoplast prepared according to prior art protocols (eg, VISCOPLAST GREEN 3000) has a viscosity of 3000 cSt, an average molecular weight of 20,602 g / mol as measured by size exclusion chromatography (SEC), and a density of 0.9500.
[0623] In conclusion, the Viscoplast obtained by the process according to the invention exhibits a lower hydroxyl index than those of the prior art, while exhibiting a higher viscosity and molecular weight.
Claims
1. A mixture comprising: a) at least one polyester resulting from the reaction of at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer with at least one alcohol having at least two hydroxyl functional groups, the at least one polyester having a viscosity of at least 200,000 cSt at 40° C. and a hydroxyl index of less than 30 mgKOH / g, b) at least one hydrocarbon compound of biological origin.
2. A polyester produced by the reaction of at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer with at least one alcohol having at least two hydroxyl functional groups, said at least one polyester having a viscosity of at least 500,000 cSt at 40° C. and a hydroxyl index of less than 30 mgKOH / g.
3. The mixture according to claim 1 or the polyester according to claim 2, characterized in that The at least one polyester is derived from the reaction between at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer of vegetable origin and at least one alcohol of vegetable origin carrying at least two hydroxyl functional groups.
4. A mixture according to any one of the preceding claims or a polyester according to any one of claims 2 to 3, characterised in that The at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer is selected from hydrogenated oleic acid dimer, hydrogenated linoleic acid and / or linolenic acid dimer, alone or as a mixture.
5. The mixture according to claim 4 or the polyester according to claim 4, characterized in that The at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer is a compound having CAS number 68783-41-5.
6. The mixture according to claim 3 or the polyester according to claim 3, characterized in that The at least one alcohol having two hydroxyl functional groups is selected from (9Z,12Z)-18-[(6Z,9Z)-18-hydroxyoctadec-6,9-dienyloxy]octadec-9,12-dien-1-ol (CAS 147853-32-5), 1,4-butanediol, 1,3-propylene glycol, 1,5-pentanediol and mixtures thereof.
7. The mixture according to claim 1, characterized in that The at least one hydrocarbon compound of bioorigin is a non-volatile compound.
8. The mixture according to claim 1, characterized in that The at least one biogenic hydrocarbon compound is of plant origin.
9. The mixture according to claim 1, characterized in that The at least one hydrocarbon compound of biological origin is chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkanes comprising at least 12 carbon atoms, alone or as a mixture.
10. The mixture according to any one of claims 7 to 9, characterized in that The at least one hydrocarbon compound of biological origin is selected from a mixture of C16-C18 alkanes and squalane and squalene.
11. A mixture according to any one of the preceding claims, characterised in that It has a percentage of carbon 14 (14C) greater than or equal to 85%, determined according to one of the following standards: ASTM D6866, EN 16640 or EN 16785-1.
12. A mixture according to any one of the preceding claims, characterised in that It comprises at least 50% by mass of at least one polyester resulting from the reaction of at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer with at least one alcohol carrying at least two hydroxyl functions and at least 10% by mass of at least one hydrocarbon compound of biological origin.
13. A mixture according to any one of the preceding claims, characterised in that It comprises 50 to 90% by mass of at least one polyester resulting from the reaction of at least one dicarboxylic acid dimer with at least one alcohol having at least two hydroxyl functions and 10 to 50% by mass of at least one hydrocarbon compound of biological origin.
14. Process for obtaining a mixture according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that It includes the following steps: a) obtaining at least one carboxylic acid dimer, b) obtaining at least one alcohol having at least two hydroxyl functions, c) obtaining at least one hydrocarbon compound of biological origin, d) mixing the compounds from steps a), b) and c), e) reducing the pressure of the mixture to a pressure of 900 to 10 mbar, f) gradually heating the mixture to a target temperature of 150° C. to 250° C., g) continuous removal of the water formed during the condensation reaction, h) obtaining a mixture comprising polyester and said hydrocarbon compound of biological origin, It is characterized in that the compounds of steps a), b) and c) can be mixed in any order during step d).
15. Process for obtaining a mixture according to any one of claims 1 to 13, characterised in that At least one catalyst is added to the mixture obtained during step d) of the process according to claim 14 .
16. The method according to claim 13, characterized in that The polyester obtained in step h) has a viscosity of at least 1,000,000 cSt at 40° C. and a hydroxyl number of less than 15 mg KOH / g.
17. The method according to any one of claims 13 to 14, characterized in that The dicarboxylic acid dimer is selected from hydrogenated oleic acid dimer, hydrogenated linoleic acid and / or linolenic acid dimer, and the at least one alcohol with two hydroxyl functional groups is selected from (9Z, 12Z)-18-[(6Z, 9Z)-18-hydroxyoctadec-6,9-dienyloxy]octadec-9,12-dien-1-ol (CAS 147853-32-5), 1,4-butanediol, 1,3-propylene glycol, 1,5-pentanediol and mixtures thereof.
18. A cosmetic composition comprising a mixture according to any one of claims 1 to 12 and at least one compound selected from the group consisting of non-volatile oils, volatile oils, gloss oils, pasty fatty substances, gelling agents, film-forming polymers, waxes, antioxidants, pigments, dyes, surfactants, aqueous phases and mixtures thereof.
19. The cosmetic composition according to claim 17, characterized in that Relative to the total mass of the composition, the mass percentage content of the mixture is greater than or equal to 5%.
20. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 17 and 18, characterized in that The cosmetic composition has a percentage of carbon 14 (14C) greater than or equal to 80% determined according to one of the following standards: ASTM D6866, EN16640 or EN 16785-1.
21. Use of the mixture according to any one of claims 1 to 12 for the preparation of a cosmetic composition for lipstick, long-lasting lipstick or lip gloss.
22. Use of the mixture according to any one of claims 1 to 12 for the preparation of a cosmetic eye make-up composition.
23. Use of a mixture according to any one of claims 1 to 12 for the preparation of a cosmetic composition for application to the skin.
24. Use of a mixture according to any one of claims 1 to 12 for the preparation of a cosmetic composition for the treatment of keratin fibers.
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