Preparation method, equipment and medium for rocade fabric with Song brocade and skein style characteristics
By using weft processing technology of silk and spandex composite silk in Songjin fabrics, combined with the irregular shrinkage and plain weave interweaving principle of warp and weft, irregular yarn holes are formed, which solves the problem of insufficient breathability and washable characteristics of Songjin fabrics in spring and summer, and realizes the breathability and color change effect of the fabrics, which is suitable as a high-end clothing fabric in summer.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN202411964639.1
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Applications(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-12-30
- Publication Date
- 2025-03-28
AI Technical Summary
The existing Song brocade fabrics are not suitable for spring and summer, especially in terms of breathability and washable properties; while the salo fabrics lack the color change effect and structural stability of Song brocade, and are prone to cracking and deformation.
Weft processing is carried out using silk Song brocade raw materials and strong twisted silk spandex composite silk cooked color. Combined with irregular shrinkage of warp and weft threads and the plain weave interweaving principle in the Luojin structure, irregular yarn holes are formed to achieve the breathability and color change effect of the fabric.
It realizes the breathability and washable properties of the fabric, while retaining the color change effect and structural stability of Songjin, making it suitable as a high-end clothing fabric in summer.
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Figure CN119711024A_ABST
Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] The invention relates to the field of textile technology, and in particular to a method, equipment and medium for preparing Luojin fabric with both Songjin and Twill style characteristics. Background Art
[0002] As a traditional intangible cultural heritage product, Song Brocade has been widely recognized by the market. Especially in recent years, Song Brocade has had more innovations and developments on the original basis, but they are all limited to aspects such as pattern patterns, color application, and weft thread materials (including spandex-coated colored silk, wool and cashmere yarn). In essence, it is still within the category of traditional Song Brocade.
[0003] The weaving method of Song Brocade: the warp direction uses 20 / 22D double warp silk cooked color and 1 / 20 / 22D single yarn raw silk arranged in a 3:1 ratio, double warp beam weaving, the weft structure uses multiple weft 2 / 1 twill weave, the weft is connected with raw silk 1 / 2 when the weft is used for patterning, and it is not interwoven with cooked silk; it is interwoven with cooked silk when the ground weave is used, and the structure is also 2 / 1 twill weave.
[0004] As a high-end clothing fabric, Song Brocade, both traditional and modern, has unique color-changing effects and texture characteristics due to its unique structural characteristics and unique weaving methods. It has a dense structure and uses raw silk for splicing, so the fabric feels stiff, making it an ideal choice for high-end autumn and winter clothing fabrics.
[0005] However, the appearance characteristics and physical properties of Song Brocade determine that it is not suitable for clothing fabrics in spring and summer, especially in summer, especially in terms of breathability and washability.
[0006] Gauze fabric is an ideal summer fabric. Its unique micro-pores and drape can better meet people's clothing needs in summer. Its washable feature can facilitate people's daily care and meet people's pursuit of high-end clothing fabrics.
[0007] However, the gauze fabric lacks the color-changing effect of Song brocade. In terms of structural stability, the gauze fabric is easy to tear, especially the yarn-dyed gauze fabric, which has a worse structural stability. It is easy to deform after falling into water many times.
[0008] How to combine the two organically to produce a Song brocade product suitable for summer fabric needs that retains the colorful style and dense characteristics of Song brocade while also having the breathability and washability of gauze fabric - Luo brocade.
[0009] The existing Song Brocade products have a high density of warp and weft, and the fabric is fine and thick. Since the binding silk is raw silk, Song Brocade products are usually stiff, with insufficient drape, easy wrinkles, and poor crispness. Therefore, Song Brocade products usually need to be dry-cleaned, as falling into water will seriously affect the appearance of the fabric. In addition, the characteristics of Song Brocade determine that the fabric is highly seasonal and is generally only suitable for the needs of high-end clothing fabrics in autumn, winter and early spring.
[0010] Existing intangible cultural heritage gauze fabrics, especially color-woven gauze fabrics, are suitable for satisfying people's pursuit of high-end fabrics in summer. Due to their special yarn hole structure, the air permeability of the fabric is increased. However, their weaving method is relatively complicated and the output is low. Due to the organizational structure of the twisted yarn, there are many limitations in the warp and weft density. Generally, the warp density of gauze color fabrics is between 56 and 64 threads / cm, and the weft density is around 30 threads / cm. High-density fabrics cannot be woven, which makes the structure of the finished fabric relatively loose and particularly easy to tear. It is seriously deformed after falling into water or washing, which affects people's perception of intangible cultural heritage gauze fabrics and is not conducive to better promotion and inheritance.
[0011] If the styles of the two intangible cultural heritage products, Song Brocade and Gauze, are combined, the colorful and fabric style characteristics of Song Brocade can be maintained, while the appearance style and wearing performance of Gauze and Gauze fabric can be combined. At the same time, the limitations of Song Brocade and Gauze products can be overcome to produce Song Brocade with Gauze and Gauze style - Luo Brocade, which will fill the market gap of this type of fabric and meet people's pursuit of high-end and fashionable fabrics in spring and summer. The market prospects are broad. Summary of the invention
[0012] The purpose of the present invention is to provide a method for preparing a Luojin fabric having both Songjin and Luojin style characteristics, comprising the following steps:
[0013] The warp raw material uses silk Songjin raw material, which is processed based on the Songjin processing technology to obtain the warp thread;
[0014] Select weft raw materials, use strong twisted silk, silk and spandex composite silk cooked color to process weft to obtain weft;
[0015] The weft processing steps include soaking, winding, doubling, twisting, vacuum setting, rewinding, natural setting, doubling, re-twisting, setting, natural setting, rewinding, rewinding, rewinding dyeing, rewinding, weaving silk spandex covered yarn, dyeing, rewinding and weaving;
[0016] Generates a brocade fabric based on warp and weft threads.
[0017] Furthermore, the weft thread includes A weft, B weft and C weft, and the A weft and C weft are made of strong twisted thread type silk and mature color silk.
[0018] Furthermore, the second weft is made of silk-spandex composite silk in a mature color.
[0019] Furthermore, the brocade fabric is post-processed after processing, and the post-processing adopts water-falling softening finishing.
[0020] Furthermore, the raw materials of the A-weft and the P-weft are 2 / 20 / 22D mulberry silk, 2600T / MZ*2 and 2300T / MS mature colors.
[0021] Furthermore, the second weft is made of 40D spandex core covered with silk cooked color.
[0022] Furthermore, weft A adopts 1 / 2 twill, weft B adopts 2 / 1 twill or 1 / 2 twill, weft C adopts 2 / 1 twill or 1 / 2 twill, weft A and weft B adopt 2 / 1 twill or 1 / 2 twill, weft A and weft C adopt 2 / 1 twill or 1 / 2 twill, weft B and weft C adopt 2 / 1 twill or 1 / 2 twill.
[0023] The present invention also provides a device for preparing Luojin fabric with both Songjin and Jiuluo style characteristics, comprising a processor, a memory and at least one program, wherein the program is stored in the memory and is configured to be executed by the processor, and the program includes instructions for executing a method for preparing Luojin fabric with both Songjin and Jiuluo style characteristics as described in any one of the above items.
[0024] The present invention also provides a computer-readable storage medium storing a computer program, wherein the computer program enables a computer to execute to implement any of the above-mentioned methods for preparing a Luojin fabric having both Songjin and Jiaoluo style features.
[0025] Due to the application of the above technical solution, the present invention has the following advantages compared with the prior art:
[0026] The present invention is based on the weaving structure of Song Brocade, uses the basic principles and methods of openwork tissue, makes comprehensive considerations, utilizes the irregular contraction of warp and weft threads and the plain weave principle in Luo Brocade ground tissue, forms an irregular yarn hole in the center of Luo Brocade ground tissue, and makes the fabric surface form the same fabric style as four-twisted four-color woven Luo, and the appearance effect is more delicate. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0027] Figure 1 Shows the organization diagram provided by the embodiment of the present invention Figure 3 Schematic diagram of the structure of the double-weft Song brocade
[0028] Figure 2 It shows a schematic diagram of the triple-weft Songjinjia weft pattern structure provided in this embodiment;
[0029] Figure 3 It shows a schematic diagram of the triple-weft Songjin B weft pattern weave provided in this embodiment;
[0030] Figure 4 It shows a schematic diagram of the triple weft Songjin C weft pattern weave provided in this embodiment;
[0031] Figure 5 It shows a schematic diagram of the weft pattern structure of Luojin Yi provided in this embodiment;
[0032] Figure 6 It shows a schematic diagram of the weft pattern structure of Luojin Bing provided in this embodiment;
[0033] Figure 7 A schematic diagram of the Luojindi tissue provided in this embodiment is shown. DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0034] In order to enable those skilled in the art to better understand the solution of the present application, the technical solution in the embodiments of the present application will be clearly and completely described below in conjunction with the drawings in the embodiments of the present application. Obviously, the described embodiments are only part of the embodiments of the present application, not all of the embodiments. Based on the embodiments in the present application, all other embodiments obtained by ordinary technicians in this field without creative work should fall within the scope of protection of the present application.
[0035] It should be noted that the terms "first", "second", etc. in the specification and claims of the present application and the above-mentioned drawings are used to distinguish similar objects, and are not necessarily used to describe a specific order or sequential order. It should be understood that the data used in this way can be interchanged where appropriate, so that the embodiments of the present application described here. In addition, the terms "including" and "having" and any of their variations are intended to cover non-exclusive inclusions, for example, a process, method, system, product or device comprising a series of steps or units is not necessarily limited to those steps or units clearly listed, but may include other steps or units that are not clearly listed or inherent to these processes, methods, products or devices.
[0036] It should be noted that, in the absence of conflict, the embodiments and features in the embodiments of the present application can be combined with each other. The present application will be described in detail below with reference to the accompanying drawings and in combination with the embodiments.
[0037] like Figure 1-Figure 7 As shown, an embodiment of the present invention provides a method for preparing a Luojin fabric having both Songjin and Luojin style characteristics, comprising the following steps:
[0038] The warp raw material uses silk Songjin raw material, which is processed based on the Songjin processing technology to obtain the warp thread;
[0039] Weft raw materials are selected, and weft yarns are processed with strong twisted silk and spandex composite silk to obtain weft yarns; in the use of raw materials, the fabrics are made to have better drape and feel, and are washable and stable in appearance after washing, which is suitable for the wearing needs of summer clothing fabrics. The warp raw materials continue to use the raw materials and processing technology of silk intangible cultural heritage Song brocade.
[0040] The weft processing steps include soaking, winding, doubling, twisting, vacuum setting, rewinding, natural setting, doubling, re-twisting, setting, natural setting, rewinding, rewinding, rewinding dyeing, rewinding, weaving silk spandex covered yarn, dyeing, rewinding and weaving;
[0041] Generates a brocade fabric based on warp and weft threads.
[0042] Specifically, the present application maintains the production on special machinery and equipment for Song Brocade to avoid the high cost caused by machine modification, while also retaining the characteristics of the intangible cultural heritage Song Brocade to the greatest extent, namely, double-warp cooked silk: single-warp raw silk = 3:1, and double-warp beam weaving retains the original warp and weft density of Song Brocade fabric.
[0043] The fabric patterns and design methods of Song Brocade are adopted, and the unique free interlaced silk techniques in the design of intangible cultural heritage gauze fabrics are added, reflecting the unique pattern saturation and three-dimensional sense of gauze fabrics. The ground part of the fabric is matched with a special organization structure according to the raw silk connection principle of Song Brocade, so that the fabric presents a fine and dense perforated effect. The weft flower principle and structure of Song Brocade are adopted in the flower part of the fabric, so that the characteristics of the pattern changes and the fantasy effect of Song Brocade are completely preserved. The raw silk in the whole fabric is woven in the way of 1 / 2 twill double weft organization to avoid the unevenness of the warp willow and pattern contour caused by the different lifting rules of raw silk of different patterns. In order to keep the fabric from being too thick, a triple weft design is adopted.
[0044] According to the embodiments of the present invention, Luojin fabric has the appearance and style characteristics of four-warp color-dyed double-sided Luo and eight-warp color-dyed double-sided Luo, and has the unique air-permeable style of gauze fabric, maintaining the air permeability and drape of gauze, while also having the characteristics of Songjin fabric, color change, firm structure, good drape, and washability. Luojin, a unique Songjin product, fills the gap in the use of Songjin products in the field of high-end summer clothing fabrics.
[0045] According to the embodiment of the present invention, the weft includes A weft, B weft and C weft, and the A weft and the C weft are made of strong twisted thread type silk and cooked color silk.
[0046] According to the embodiment of the present invention, the weft is made of silk-spandex composite silk in a mature color.
[0047] According to the embodiment of the present invention, the brocade fabric is post-processed after processing, and the post-processing adopts water-falling softening finishing.
[0048] Specifically, the post-finishing adopts water-drop softening finishing to make the fabric have better softness and drape, and ensure the dimensional stability of the garment after being dropped into water.
[0049] According to the embodiment of the present invention, the raw materials of the A weft and the Plexiglas weft are 2 / 20 / 22D mulberry silk, 2600T / MZ*2 and 2300T / MS cooked colors.
[0050] According to an embodiment of the present invention, Yiwei uses a 40D spandex core covered with silk cooked color.
[0051] According to an embodiment of the present invention, weft A adopts 1 / 2 twill, weft B adopts 2 / 1 twill or 1 / 2 twill, weft C adopts 2 / 1 twill or 1 / 2 twill, weft A and weft B adopt 2 / 1 twill or 1 / 2 twill, weft A and weft C adopt 2 / 1 twill or 1 / 2 twill, weft B and weft C adopt 2 / 1 twill or 1 / 2 twill.
[0052] Specifically, in order to maintain the original characteristics of Song Brocade, the floral structure of Luo Brocade was used in the design of the floral structure. At the same time, in order to present the completely double-sided color effect of Luo Brocade, the same floral structure as the floral structure of the second and third wefts of Song Brocade was used.
[0053] The present invention also provides a device for preparing Luojin fabric with both Songjin and Jiuluo style characteristics, comprising a processor, a memory and at least one program, wherein the program is stored in the memory and is configured to be executed by the processor, and the program includes instructions for executing any of the above-mentioned methods for preparing Luojin fabric with both Songjin and Jiuluo style characteristics.
[0054] The present invention also provides a computer-readable storage medium storing a computer program, which enables a computer to execute to implement any of the above-mentioned methods for preparing Luojin fabric having both Songjin and Jiaoluo style features.
[0055] In summary, based on the weaving structure of Song Brocade, the present invention uses the basic principles and methods of openwork tissue to make comprehensive considerations, and utilizes the irregular contraction of warp and weft threads and the plain weave principle in the Luo Brocade ground tissue to form an irregular yarn hole in the center of the Luo Brocade ground tissue, so that the fabric surface forms the same fabric style as the four-twisted four-color woven Luo, and the appearance effect is more delicate.
[0056] The present embodiment also provides a device for preparing Luojin fabric having both Songjin and Jiuluo style characteristics, comprising a processor, a memory and at least one program, wherein the program is stored in the memory and is configured to be executed by the processor, and the program includes instructions for executing any of the above-mentioned methods for preparing Luojin fabric having both Songjin and Jiuluo style characteristics.
[0057] Those skilled in the art will appreciate that, for ease of description, the example in which both the memory and the processor are provided with one is used for description. In an actual terminal or server, there may be multiple processors and memories. The memory may also be referred to as a storage medium or a storage device, etc., which is not limited in the embodiments of the present application.
[0058] It should be understood that in the embodiments of the present application, the processor may be a central processing unit (CPU), and the processor may also be other general-purpose processors, digital signal processors (DSP), application-specific integrated circuits (ASIC), field-programmable gate arrays (FPGA), or other programmable logic devices, discrete gates or transistor logic devices, discrete hardware components, etc. The processor may also be a general-purpose microprocessor, graphics processing unit (GPU), or one or more integrated circuits for executing related programs to implement the functions required to be executed in the embodiments of the present application.
[0059] The processor can also be an integrated circuit chip with signal processing capabilities. In the implementation process, the various steps of the present application can be completed by the integrated logic circuit of the hardware in the processor or the instructions in the form of software. The above-mentioned processor can implement or execute the various methods, steps and logic block diagrams disclosed in the embodiments of the present application. The steps of the method disclosed in the embodiments of the present application can be directly embodied as a hardware decoding processor to be executed, or a combination of hardware and software modules in the decoding processor to be executed. The software module can be located in a mature storage medium in the field such as a random access memory, a flash memory and a read-only memory, a programmable read-only memory or an electrically erasable programmable memory, a register, etc. The storage medium is located in the memory, and the processor reads the information in the memory, and combines its hardware to complete the functions required to be performed by the unit included in the method, device and storage medium of the embodiment of the present application.
[0060] It should also be understood that the memory mentioned in the embodiments of the present application may be a volatile memory or a non-volatile memory, or may include both volatile and non-volatile memories. Among them, the non-volatile memory may be a read-only memory (ROM), a programmable read-only memory (PROM), an erasable programmable read-only memory (EPROM), an electrically erasable programmable read-only memory (EEPROM), or a flash memory. The volatile memory may be a random access memory (RAM), which is used as an external cache.
[0061] By way of example but not limitation, many forms of RAM are available, such as static random access memory (SRAM), dynamic random access memory (DRAM), synchronous dynamic random access memory (SDRAM), double data rate synchronous dynamic random access memory (DDR SDRAM), enhanced synchronous dynamic random access memory (ESDRAM), synchronous link dynamic random access memory (SLDRAM) and direct memory bus random access memory (Direct Rambus RAM, DR RAM).
[0062] The memory may also be a read-only optical disc (Compact Disc Read-Only Memory, CD-ROM) or other optical disc storage, optical disc storage (including compressed optical disc, laser disc, optical disc, digital versatile disc, Blu-ray disc, etc.), magnetic disk storage medium or other magnetic storage device, or any other medium that can be used to carry or store the desired program code in the form of instructions or data structures and can be accessed by a computer, but is not limited thereto. The memory may be independent and connected to the processor via a bus. The memory may also be integrated with the processor, and the memory may store a program. When the program stored in the memory is executed by the processor, the processor is used to execute the various steps of the determination method in the above-mentioned embodiment of the present application.
[0063] It should be noted that when the processor is a general-purpose processor, DSP, ASIC, FPGA or other programmable logic device, discrete gate or transistor logic device, discrete hardware component, the memory (storage module) is integrated into the processor. It should be noted that the memory described herein is intended to include but is not limited to these and any other suitable types of memory.
[0064] It should be understood that the term "and / or" in this article is only a description of the association relationship of the associated objects, indicating that there can be three relationships. For example, A and / or B can represent: A exists alone, A and B exist at the same time, and B exists alone. In addition, the character " / " in this article generally indicates that the associated objects before and after are in an "or" relationship.
[0065] In the implementation process, each step of the above method can be completed by an integrated logic circuit of hardware in a processor or an instruction in the form of software. The steps of the method disclosed in conjunction with the embodiment of the present application can be directly embodied as a hardware processor for execution, or a combination of hardware and software modules in a processor for execution. The software module can be located in a mature storage medium in the art such as a random access memory, a flash memory, a read-only memory, a programmable read-only memory, or an electrically erasable programmable memory, a register, etc. The storage medium is located in a memory, and the processor reads the information in the memory, and completes the steps of the above method in conjunction with its hardware. To avoid repetition, it is not described in detail here.
[0066] Those skilled in the art will appreciate that the various illustrative logical blocks (ILBs) and steps described in conjunction with the embodiments disclosed herein can be implemented in electronic hardware, or in a combination of computer software and electronic hardware. Whether these functions are performed in hardware or software depends on the specific application and design constraints of the technical solution. Professional and technical personnel may use different methods to implement the described functions for each specific application, but such implementation should not be considered beyond the scope of this application.
[0067] In the above embodiments, all or part of the embodiments may be implemented by software, hardware, firmware or any combination thereof. When implemented by software, all or part of the embodiments may be implemented in the form of a program product of computer programming. The computer program product includes one or more computer instructions. When the computer program instructions are loaded and executed on a processor, all or part of the processes or functions according to the embodiments of the present application are generated. The computer may be a general-purpose computer, a computer network, or other programmable device.
[0068] This embodiment also provides a computer-readable storage medium, which stores a computer program. The computer program enables a computer to execute to implement the above-mentioned method for preparing Luojin fabric with both Songjin and Jiaoluo style characteristics.
[0069] It should be noted that computer instructions can be stored in a computer-readable storage medium, or transmitted from one computer-readable storage medium to another computer-readable storage medium. For example, computer instructions can be transmitted from one website, computer, server or data center to another website, computer, server or data center by wired (e.g., coaxial cable, optical fiber) or wireless (e.g., infrared, wireless, microwave, etc.) means, or can be transmitted from one website, computer, server or data center to a mobile phone processor by wired means. Computer-readable storage media can be any available medium that can be accessed by a computer or a data storage device such as a server or data center that includes one or more available media. Available media can be magnetic media (e.g., floppy disk, hard disk), optical media (e.g., DVD), or semiconductor media (e.g., solid-state hard disk), etc.
[0070] Finally, it should be noted that the above are only preferred embodiments of the present invention and are not intended to limit the present invention. Although the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the aforementioned embodiments, it is still possible for those skilled in the art to modify the technical solutions described in the aforementioned embodiments, or to make equivalent substitutions for some of the technical features therein. Any modifications, equivalent substitutions, improvements, etc. made within the spirit and principles of the present invention should be included in the protection scope of the present invention.
Claims
1. A method for preparing a Luojin fabric with both Songjin and Luojin style characteristics, characterized in that: The following steps are involved: The warp raw material uses silk Songjin raw material, which is processed based on the Songjin processing technology to obtain the warp thread; Select weft raw materials, use strong twisted silk, silk and spandex composite silk cooked color to process weft to obtain weft; The weft processing steps include soaking, winding, doubling, twisting, vacuum setting, rewinding, natural setting, doubling, re-twisting, setting, natural setting, rewinding, rewinding, rewinding dyeing, rewinding, weaving silk spandex covered yarn, dyeing, rewinding and weaving; Generates a brocade fabric based on warp and weft threads.
2. The method for preparing the Luojin fabric with both Songjin and Luojin style characteristics as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that: The wefts include A weft, B weft and C weft, and the A weft and C weft are made of strong twisted thread type silk and cooked color silk.
3. The method for preparing the Luojin fabric with both Songjin and Luojin style characteristics as claimed in claim 2, characterized in that: The weft is made of silk-spandex composite silk in mature color.
4. The method for preparing the Luojin fabric having both Songjin and Luojin style characteristics as claimed in claim 3, characterized in that: After the processing of the Luojin fabric is completed, post-treatment is performed, and the post-treatment adopts water-dropping softening finishing.
5. The method for preparing the Luojin fabric with both Songjin and Luojin style characteristics as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that: The materials of the A-weft and the P-weft are 2 / 20 / 22D mulberry silk, 2600T / MZ*2 and 2300T / MS cooked colors.
6. The method for preparing the Luojin fabric with both Songjin and Luojin style characteristics as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that: The described weft is made of 40D spandex core covered with silk cooked color.
7. The method for preparing a Luojin fabric having both Songjin and Luojin style characteristics as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that: The weft A adopts 1 / 2 twill, the weft B adopts 2 / 1 twill or 1 / 2 twill, the weft C adopts 2 / 1 twill or 1 / 2 twill, the weft A and the weft B adopt 2 / 1 twill or 1 / 2 twill, the weft A and the weft C adopt 2 / 1 twill or 1 / 2 twill, the weft B and the weft C adopt 2 / 1 twill or 1 / 2 twill.
8. A device for preparing Luojin fabric with both Songjin and Luojin style features, characterized in that: It includes a processor, a memory and at least one program, wherein the program is stored in the memory and is configured to be executed by the processor, and the program includes instructions for executing a method for preparing a Luojin fabric having both Songjin and Jiuluo style features as described in any one of claims 1-7.
9. A computer-readable storage medium, characterized in that: The computer-readable storage medium stores a computer program, which enables a computer to execute to implement the method for preparing a Luojin fabric having both Songjin and Jiuluo style features as described in any one of claims 1-7.
Citation Information
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