Essence cream as well as related product and skin care method thereof
By using polyhydroxystearic acid and polyquaternary ammonium salt-51 in the essence paste, the problems of uneven dispersion, poor texture and short-term moisturizing effect are solved, and more uniform dispersion, more delicate texture and longer-lasting moisturizing effect are achieved.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN202510420038.2
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Applications(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2025-04-03
- Publication Date
- 2025-06-27
AI Technical Summary
The existing essence paste has problems such as uneven dispersion, insufficient fine texture and short moisturizing effect, which affects the user experience and effect.
Polyhydroxystearic acid is used as a dispersant, and a dual system of "steric steric hindrance + electrostatic repulsion" is formed by its adhesion on the surface of powder particles, thereby improving the dispersion uniformity of powder particles. At the same time, polyquaternary ammonium salt-51 was added to simulate the stratum corneum to form a breathable hydrated gel film to improve the moisturizing effect.
It significantly improves the dispersion uniformity of powder particles, makes the essence paste more delicate and sticks to the skin, and at the same time extends the moisturizing effect, and can still maintain a high moisture content after washing.
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Figure CN120204081A_ABST
Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] The present invention relates to the fields of cosmetics and skin care products. Specifically, it relates to a essence cream and its related products and skin care methods. Background Art
[0002] Cream cosmetics are widely used in daily skin care and beauty. Their texture, ductility and moisturizing performance directly affect the user experience and effect. However, the essence cream cosmetics in the prior art still have the following problems: 1. Uneven dispersion: Powder particles (such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, etc.) are prone to agglomeration in the essence cream, resulting in a rough texture of the essence cream, poor ductility during use, and affecting the uniformity and use experience of the product. By using existing dispersants (such as sodium polyacrylate) to improve the particle dispersibility, but the addition amount is relatively high, which affects the stability and feel of the essence cream. At the same time, some dispersion technologies (such as high-pressure homogenization) have high equipment costs and are difficult to apply on a large scale. 2. Insufficiently delicate texture: Traditional grinding technologies (such as ball milling, sand milling, etc.) are difficult to refine powder particles to an ideal state (usually the particle size is greater than 1 μm) and are prone to introducing impurities, affecting the product purity. This not only affects the skin-fitting property, but may also cause skin discomfort or unnatural makeup. Using high-energy grinding technology can refine powder particles to the nanometer level, but this will reduce the surface activity of the powder particles and affect their compatibility with the matrix. 3. Short-lived moisturizing effect: Existing moisturizing ingredients (such as hyaluronic acid and glycerol, etc.) can improve the skin water content in the short term, but cannot form a long-lasting moisturizing film, and their moisturizing performance decreases significantly after washing with water, unable to meet the user's demand for long-lasting moisturization. In addition, some moisturizing ingredients are prone to inactivation in high or low temperature environments, further restricting their application scope. By adding some biomimetic moisturizing ingredients (such as ceramide), the moisturizing effect can be extended, but the cost is relatively high, and strict requirements are imposed on the formula stability.
[0003] In view of this, the present invention is specifically proposed. Summary of the Invention
[0004] The purpose of the present invention is to provide an essence cream and its related products and skin care methods.
[0005] The present invention is implemented as follows:
[0006] In a first aspect, an embodiment of the present invention provides an essence cream. The raw materials of the essence cream include powder raw materials; the powder raw materials include: polyhydroxystearic acid and / or polyquaternium-51.
[0007] In a second aspect, an embodiment of the present invention provides a preparation method of the essence cream as described in the foregoing embodiment, which includes: preparing with the raw materials described in the foregoing embodiment.
[0008] In a third aspect, an embodiment of the present invention provides a composition, which comprises the essence cream described in the foregoing embodiments, or the raw materials of the essence cream, or the essence cream prepared by the preparation method described in the foregoing embodiments.
[0009] In a fourth aspect, an embodiment of the present invention provides a cosmetic or skin care product, which comprises: the essence cream described in the foregoing embodiments, or the essence cream prepared by the preparation method described in the foregoing embodiments, or the composition described in the foregoing embodiments.
[0010] In a fifth aspect, an embodiment of the present invention provides a skin care method, which comprises: applying to the skin care subject the essence cream described in the foregoing embodiments, or the essence cream prepared by the preparation method described in the foregoing embodiments, or the composition described in the foregoing embodiments, or the cosmetic or skin care product described in the foregoing embodiments.
[0011] The present invention has the following beneficial effects:
[0012] (1) Using polyhydroxystearic acid as a dispersant, when attached to the surface of powder particles, a "steric hindrance + electrostatic repulsion" dual system is formed. Compared with the traditional single-charge repulsion system (such as sodium hexametaphosphate), it can significantly reduce the viscosity of the dispersion system, increase the powder addition concentration, make the essence cream more uniform, and be easily spread when used. It overcomes the problems in the prior art such as the need to add a high content of dispersant and high requirements for site equipment.
[0013] (2) Adding polyquaternium-51 to the essence cream, which has a biomimetic phospholipid structure of the human cell membrane, simulates the stratum corneum to form a breathable hydrated gel film on the skin surface. Using the essence cream in combination with a facial mask can achieve a more lasting moisturizing effect, and still maintain a high water content after washing with water. It overcomes the problems such as high raw material costs in the prior art of biomimetic technology and broadens the application scope.
[0014] (3) Polyquaternium-51 can simulate the lipid bilayer of the cell membrane to form a dynamic moisturizing film and improve the durability of moisturization. However, quaternary ammonium salt raw materials will bring a sticky residue feeling. Polyhydroxystearic acid can well neutralize its sticky residue feeling, and because the material is more uniform, it can be applied more smoothly during use, which indirectly improves the moisturizing ability. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0015] In order to more clearly illustrate the technical solutions of the embodiments of the present invention, the following will briefly introduce the drawings required for the embodiments. It should be understood that the following drawings only show some embodiments of the present invention, and therefore should not be regarded as limiting the scope. For those of ordinary skill in the art, without creative efforts, other related drawings can also be obtained based on these drawings.
[0016] Figure 1 Microscopic observation results of the essence cream of Example 1;
[0017] Figure 2 Microscopic observation results of the essence cream of Example 4. Detailed implementation manners
[0018] To make the objectives, technical solutions, and advantages of the embodiments of the present invention clearer, the technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below. For those not specified in the embodiments, they are carried out according to conventional conditions or conditions recommended by the manufacturer. For reagents or instruments without indicating the manufacturer, they are all conventional products that can be obtained by purchasing in the market.
[0019] On the one hand, the embodiments of the present invention provide an essence cream, and the raw materials of the essence cream include powder raw materials; the powder raw materials include: polyhydroxystearic acid and / or polyquaternium-51.
[0020] Polyhydroxystearic acid can prevent particles from binding to each other through steric structure and electrostatic repulsion by attaching to the surface of powder particles. That is, a very small dose can significantly reduce the viscosity of the dispersion system, thereby increasing the addition concentration of the powder and improving the system stability.
[0021] Polyquaternium-51 (PMB), a high-grade moisturizing factor with a biomimetic phospholipid structure of the human cell membrane, has very high in vivo affinity, can simulate the stratum corneum, and can form a breathable hydrated gel film on the skin surface. PMB can still maintain a high water content after being washed with water, and combined with glycerol, it can achieve a more lasting moisturizing effect, and has the effect of promoting penetration without irritation.
[0022] Applying polyhydroxystearic acid and polyquaternium-51 to the essence cream has a synergistic effect. Polyquaternium-51 can simulate the lipid bilayer of the cell membrane to form a dynamic moisturizing film, improving the durability of moisturization, and polyhydroxystearic acid can neutralize the sticky residue of quaternary ammonium salt raw materials.
[0023] In some embodiments, the powder raw materials include polyhydroxystearic acid and polyquaternium-51.
[0024] In some embodiments, by weight, the powder raw materials include 0.1-2 parts of polyhydroxystearic acid and 0.01-0.1 part of polyquaternium-51.
[0025] Optionally, the number of parts of polyhydroxystearic acid can be any one or the range between any two of 0.1, 0.2, 0.4, 0.6, 0.8, 1, 1.2, 1.4, 1.6, 1.8, and 2 parts. The weight number of parts of polyquaternium-51 can be any one or the range between any two of 0.01, 0.02, 0.04, 0.06, 0.08, and 0.1 parts.
[0026] In some embodiments, the powder raw material further comprises: powder particles.
[0027] In some embodiments, the powder particles include any one or more of pearl powder, aluminum hydroxide, titanium dioxide, and a first humectant.
[0028] In some embodiments, the first humectant includes any one or more of glycerin, diglycerin, and panthenol.
[0029] In some embodiments, the particle size range of the pearl powder is 0.1 - 0.5 μm, specifically, it can be any one or the range between any two of 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, and 0.5 μm.
[0030] In some embodiments, the titanium dioxide includes CI 77891.
[0031] In some embodiments, by weight parts, the powder raw material comprises: 0.1 - 2 parts of polyhydroxystearic acid, 0.01 - 0.1 parts of polyquaternium - 51, 1 - 5 parts of pearl powder, 1 - 2 parts of aluminum hydroxide, 1 - 3 parts of titanium dioxide, and 5 - 10 parts of glycerin. Specifically, the parts of pearl powder can be any one or the range between any two of 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5 parts. The parts of aluminum hydroxide can be any one or the range between any two of 1, 1.2, 1.4, 1.6, 1.8, and 2 parts. The parts of titanium dioxide can be any one or the range between any two of 1, 2, and 3 parts. The parts of glycerin can be any one or the range between any two of 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, and 10 parts.
[0032] In some embodiments, the raw materials of the essence cream further comprise: an aqueous phase raw material and an oil phase raw material;
[0033] In some embodiments, the aqueous phase raw material includes any one or more of water, a second humectant, and a first thickener;
[0034] In some embodiments, the second humectant includes any one or more of glycerin, diglycerin, and panthenol;
[0035] In some embodiments, the first thickener includes any one or more of hydroxyethyl cellulose, sodium polyacrylate, and cetearyl alcohol;
[0036] In some embodiments, by weight parts, the aqueous phase raw materials include: 50 to 70 parts of water, 5 to 10 parts of glycerol, 2 to 5 parts of diglycerol, 1 to 5 parts of panthenol, 0.1 to 5 parts of hydroxyethyl cellulose, 0.1 to 5 parts of sodium polyacrylate, and 1 to 5 parts of cetearyl alcohol. Specifically, the parts of water can be any one of 50, 52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62, 64, 66, 68, and 70 parts or a range between any two of them. The parts of glycerol can be any one of 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, and 10 parts or a range between any two of them. The parts of diglycerol can be any one of 2, 3, 4, and 5 parts or a range between any two of them. The parts of panthenol can be any one of 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5 parts or a range between any two of them. The parts of hydroxyethyl cellulose can be any one of 0.1, 0.5, 1, 1.5, 2.5, 3, 3.5, 4, 4.5, and 5 parts or a range between any two of them. The parts of sodium polyacrylate can be any one of 0.1, 0.5, 1, 1.5, 2.5, 3, 3.5, 4, 4.5, and 5 parts or a range between any two of them. The cetearyl alcohol can be any one of 1, 1.5, 2.5, 3, 3.5, 4, 4.5, and 5 parts or a range between any two of them.
[0037] In some embodiments, the oil phase raw materials include: a first emollient and an emulsifier;
[0038] In some embodiments, the first emollient includes any one or more of triglyceride caprylate / caprate, octyldodecyl myristate, and octyl polymethylsiloxane;
[0039] In some embodiments, the emulsifier includes any one or more of glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, and sodium stearoyl glutamate;
[0040] In some embodiments, by weight parts, the oil phase raw materials include: 2 to 16 parts of triglyceride caprylic / capric acid, 3 to 5 parts of octyldodecyl myristate, 2 to 6 parts of octyl polymethylsiloxane, 0.3 to 1 part of glyceryl stearate, 0.5 to 2 parts of PEG-100 stearate, and 0.1 to 2 parts of sodium stearoyl glutamate. Specifically, the parts of triglyceride caprylic / capric acid can be any one or the range between any two of 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, and 16 parts. The parts of octyldodecyl myristate can be any one or the range between any two of 3, 4, and 5 parts. The parts of octyl polymethylsiloxane can be any one or the range between any two of 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 parts. The parts of glyceryl stearate can be any one or the range between any two of 0.3, 0.4, 0.6, 0.8, and 1 part. The parts of PEG-100 stearate can be any one or the range between any two of 0.5, 1, 1.5, and 2 parts. The parts of sodium stearoyl glutamate can be any one or the range between any two of 0.1, 0.5, 1, 1.5, and 2 parts.
[0041] In some embodiments, the raw materials of the essence cream further include a first preservative.
[0042] In some embodiments, the first preservative includes any one or more of phenoxyethanol and p-hydroxyacetophenone.
[0043] In some embodiments, by weight parts, the raw materials of the essence cream include: 0.1 to 0.8 part of phenoxyethanol and 0.1 to 0.5 part of p-hydroxyacetophenone. Specifically, the parts of phenoxyethanol can be any one or the range between any two of 0.1, 0.2, 0.4, 0.6, and 0.8 parts. The parts of p-hydroxyacetophenone can be any one or the range between any two of 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, and 0.5 parts.
[0044] On the other hand, the embodiments of the present invention further provide a preparation method of the essence cream as described in any of the foregoing embodiments, which includes: preparing by using the raw materials described in any of the foregoing embodiments.
[0045] In some embodiments, the preparation includes the following steps: mixing and grinding the powder raw materials of the essence cream to obtain a powder; mixing the aqueous phase raw materials of the essence cream and heating at 75 to 85 °C to obtain an aqueous phase; mixing the oil phase raw materials of the essence cream and the powder and heating at 75 to 85 °C to obtain an oil phase; mixing the aqueous phase and the oil phase to obtain the essence cream.
[0046] In some embodiments, the grinding is carried out by using a three-roll mill.
[0047] The pre-dispersed phase (powder) is ground using a three-roll mill. The three-roll mill forms an alternating extrusion-stretching flow field through the 180° phase difference rotation of the middle and rear rolls, achieving a reconstructed shear force field. This dynamic stress field causes the powder aggregates to undergo a three-stage transformation of "depolymerization - peeling - nanosizing", and finally the D50 particle size spans from the micron level (10 - 50 μm) to the submicron level (0.1 - 0.5 μm). This technology reduces the powder particle size by more than 10 times, making the texture of the essence cream finer and more skin-friendly when used.
[0048] In some embodiments, the grinding includes grinding the powder to a particle size ≤ 10 μm.
[0049] In some embodiments, the grinding includes grinding the powder to a particle size of 0.1 - 1 μm.
[0050] In some embodiments, the heating temperature of the mixed aqueous phase raw material and / or oil phase raw material can be any one or the range between any two of 75, 76, 78, 80, 82, 84, and 85 °C.
[0051] In some embodiments, the heating time after mixing the aqueous phase raw material is 20 - 40 min, specifically it can be any one or the range between any two of 20, 25, 30, 35, and 40 min.
[0052] In some embodiments, the heating time after mixing the oil phase raw material is 20 - 40 min, specifically it can be any one or the range between any two of 20, 25, 30, 35, and 40 min.
[0053] In some embodiments, the mixing step of the aqueous phase and the oil phase includes: stirring and cooling to 36 - 40 °C, specifically it can be any one or the range between any two of 36, 38, and 40 °C.
[0054] In some embodiments, the preparation further includes: adding a first preservative during the process of stirring and cooling.
[0055] In some embodiments, the timing of adding the first preservative is when cooling to 45 - 55 °C, specifically it can be any one or the range between any two of 45, 46, 48, 50, 52, 54, and 55 °C.
[0056] On the other hand, the embodiments of the present invention provide a composition, which includes the essence cream described in any of the foregoing embodiments or the raw materials of the essence cream or the essence cream prepared by the preparation method described in any of the foregoing embodiments.
[0057] In some embodiments, the composition further includes a facial mask or the raw materials of the facial mask.
[0058] In some embodiments, the facial mask includes an emulsified facial mask.
[0059] In some embodiments, the raw materials of the facial mask include: Phase A raw materials and Phase B raw materials.
[0060] In some embodiments, the Phase A raw materials include a third humectant and a second emollient.
[0061] In some embodiments, the third humectant includes any one or more of butylene glycol, glycerin, hydrogenated lecithin, and 1,2 - hexanediol.
[0062] In some embodiments, the second emollient includes any one or more of hydrogenated polyisobutene, polydimethylsiloxane, and glyceryl tri(ethylhexanoate).
[0063] In some embodiments, the Phase B raw materials include: water and a second thickener.
[0064] In some embodiments, the second thickener includes any one or more of hydroxyethyl cellulose, xanthan gum, and acrylate / C10 - 30 alkyl acrylate cross - polymer.
[0065] In some embodiments, the raw materials of the facial mask further include a second preservative;
[0066] In some embodiments, by weight parts, the raw materials of the facial mask include: 5 to 10 parts of butanediol, 3 to 10 parts of glycerol, 0.2 to 3 parts of hydrogenated lecithin, 0.2 to 3 parts of 1,2 - hexanediol, 0.1 to 5 parts of hydrogenated polyisobutene, 0.1 to 5 parts of polydimethylsiloxane, 0.1 to 5 parts of glyceryl tri(ethylhexanoate), 70 to 90 parts of water, 0.1 to 0.4 parts of hydroxyethyl cellulose, 0.05 to 0.5 parts of xanthan gum, 0.05 to 0.5 parts of acrylate / C10 - 30 alkanol acrylate cross - linked polymer, and 0.1 to 0.5 parts of a second preservative. Briefly, the number of parts of butanediol can be any one or in the range between any two of 5, 6, 8, and 10 parts. The number of parts of glycerol can be any one or in the range between any two of 3, 4, 6, 8, and 10 parts. The number of parts of 1,2 - hexanediol can be any one or in the range between any two of 0.2, 0.4, 0.6, 0.8, 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5, and 3 parts. The number of parts of hydrogenated polyisobutene can be any one or in the range between any two of 0.1, 0.5, 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 3.5, 4, 4.5, and 5 parts. The number of parts of polydimethylsiloxane can be any one or in the range between any two of 0.1, 0.5, 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 3.5, 4, 4.5, and 5 parts. The number of parts of glyceryl tri(ethylhexanoate) can be any one or in the range between any two of 0.1, 0.5, 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 3.5, 4, 4.5, and 5 parts. The number of parts of water can be any one or in the range between any two of 70, 72, 74, 76, 78, 80, 82, 84, 86, 88, and 90 parts. The number of parts of hydroxyethyl cellulose can be any one or in the range between any two of 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, and 0.4 parts. The number of parts of xanthan gum can be any one or in the range between any two of 0.05, 0.08, 0.1, 0.15, 0.2, 0.25, 0.3, 0.35, 0.4, 0.45, and 0.5 parts. The number of parts of acrylate / C10 - 30 alkanol acrylate cross - linked polymer can be any one or in the range between any two of 0.05, 0.08, 0.1, 0.15, 0.2, 0.25, 0.3, 0.35, 0.4, 0.45, and 0.5 parts. The number of parts of the second preservative can be any one or in the range between any two of 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, and 0.5 parts.
[0067] In some embodiments, the second preservative includes any one or more of phenoxyethanol and p - hydroxyacetophenone.
[0068] In some embodiments, the preparation method of the facial mask includes the following steps:
[0069] Heat the mixed raw material of Phase A to 70 - 75°C to obtain Phase A;
[0070] Heat the mixed raw material of Phase B to 70 - 75°C to obtain Phase B;
[0071] Mix Phase A and Phase B to obtain a facial mask.
[0072] In some embodiments, the heating temperature of the mixed raw material of Phase A and / or the mixed raw material of Phase B is in the range of any one or any two of 70, 71, 72, 73, 74, and 75°C. The heating time can be 20 - 40 min, specifically in the range of any one or any two of 20, 25, 30, 35, and 40 min.
[0073] In some embodiments, the mixing step of Phase A and Phase B includes: stirring and cooling to 36 - 40°C, specifically in the range of any one or any two of 36, 38, and 40°C.
[0074] In some embodiments, the method for preparing the facial mask further includes: adding a second preservative during the process of stirring and cooling.
[0075] In some embodiments, the timing for adding the second preservative is when the temperature is cooled to 45 - 55°C, specifically in the range of any one or any two of 45, 46, 48, 50, 52, 54, and 55°C.
[0076] On the other hand, the embodiments of the present invention also provide a cosmetic or skin care product, which includes: the essence cream described in any of the foregoing embodiments, or the essence cream prepared by the preparation method described in any of the foregoing embodiments, or the composition described in any of the foregoing embodiments.
[0077] On the other hand, the embodiments of the present invention also provide the application of polyhydroxystearic acid and / or polyquaternium - 51 in the preparation of products with moisturizing effects.
[0078] In some embodiments, the products with moisturizing effects include: essence cream, essence liquid, or products containing essence cream and / or essence liquid.
[0079] In some embodiments, the products containing essence cream and / or essence liquid include essence cream and facial mask.
[0080] In some embodiments, the products include cosmetics and / or skin care products.
[0081] In addition, an embodiment of the present invention further provides a skin care method, which includes: applying the essence cream described in any of the foregoing embodiments, or the essence cream prepared by the preparation method described in any of the foregoing embodiments, or the composition described in any of the foregoing embodiments, or the cosmetics or skin care products described in any of the foregoing embodiments to the skin care subject.
[0082] The present invention has no special requirements for the application method and dosage of the essence cream and / or mask, and can be applied according to the actual needs and in the manner of conventional essence cream and mask.
[0083] The features and properties of the present invention will be further described in detail below in conjunction with embodiments.
[0084] Example 1
[0085] This embodiment provides an essence cream, a mask and a preparation method thereof.
[0086] 1. A preparation method of an essence cream, which includes the following steps. The raw material ratio of the essence cream is shown in Table 1.
[0087] (1) Preparation of powder
[0088] Mix ultrafine pearl powder (particle size 0.1 - 0.5 μm), aluminum hydroxide, CI 77891, polyhydroxystearic acid, polyquaternium-51 and glycerin, and process with a three-roll mill. The parameter settings are as follows: rotation speed: 30 rpm, pressure = 7 pa, repeat grinding 3 times;
[0089] (2) Preparation of aqueous phase
[0090] Add water, diglycerol, panthenol, hydroxyethyl cellulose, sodium polyacrylate, cetearyl alcohol to the aqueous phase pot and heat to 80 °C in 30 min;
[0091] (3) Preparation of oil phase
[0092] Add triglyceride caprylate / caprate, octyldodecyl myristate, octyl polymethylsiloxane, glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, and the powder phase to the oil phase pot and heat to 80 °C in 30 min;
[0093] (4) Mixing of aqueous phase and oil phase
[0094] Homogenize the aqueous phase and the oil phase in the emulsifying pot for 3 - 10 min (3000 - 5000 revolutions per minute), turn on the cooling, and stir to cool down to 50 °C;
[0095] Add phenoxyethanol and p-hydroxyacetophenone, stir and homogenize, stir to cool down to 38 °C, stop stirring and discharge to obtain the essence cream.
[0096] 2. A preparation method of an emulsified facial mask, which comprises the following steps. The raw material ratio of the facial mask is shown in Table 3.
[0097] (1) Preparation of the oil phase / A phase
[0098] Add butylene glycol, glycerin, hydrogenated lecithin, 1,2 - hexanediol, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polydimethylsiloxane, and glyceryl tri(ethylhexanoate) into the oil phase pot and heat to 75°C in 30 min;
[0099] (2) Preparation of the aqueous phase / B phase
[0100] Add water, hydroxyethyl cellulose, xanthan gum, acrylate / C10 - 30 alkyl acrylate cross - polymer into the aqueous phase pot and heat to 75°C in 30 min;
[0101] Homogenize the aqueous phase and the oil phase in the emulsifying pot for 5 min (3000 rpm);
[0102] Start cooling and stir to cool down to 50°C;
[0103] Add p - hydroxyacetophenone, stir and homogenize, stir to cool down to 38°C, stop stirring and discharge the material.
[0104] Examples 2 - 4
[0105] Examples 2 - 3 and Example 1 respectively provide essence creams and facial masks. The essence creams of Examples 2 - 3 are the same as the essence cream provided by Example 1 and its preparation method, the difference is that the raw materials of the essence cream are different, and the components and / or ratios of the raw materials are shown in Table 1.
[0106] The essence cream of Example 4 has differences in raw materials (see Table 1) and preparation methods compared with the essence cream of Example 1. The differences in the preparation method are as follows: when preparing the powder, Example 4 does not use a three - roll grinder for grinding, but only mixes evenly.
[0107] The facial masks and their preparation processes of Examples 2 - 4 are the same as those of Example 1.
[0108] Comparative Examples 1 - 3
[0109] Comparative Examples 1 - 3 respectively provide essence creams and facial masks. The essence creams are substantially the same as those of Example 1, and the differences are as follows.
[0110] The essence creams and their preparation processes of Comparative Examples 1 - 3 and Example 1 are the same, but there are differences in raw materials, and the formula is shown in Table 2.
[0111] The facial masks and their preparation processes of Comparative Examples 1 - 3 are the same as those of Example 1.
[0112] Table 1 Components of the essence cream
[0113]
[0114]
[0115] Table 2 Components of the Essence Cream
[0116]
[0117] Table 3 Components and Their Ratios of the Facial Mask
[0118]
[0119]
[0120] Note: "%" in Tables 1 - 3 is the mass percentage.
[0121] (1) Efficacy Test
[0122] 1. Test Method
[0123] Moisture Content Test:
[0124] Test Equipment: MPA - 580 instrument - moisturizing probe from CK Company, Germany;
[0125] Subjects: Healthy Asian women aged 25 - 35 without skin problems;
[0126] Test Site: The entire face was selected as the test area;
[0127] Test Procedure: After the subjects cleaned their faces and rested for 30 minutes (in a constant temperature and humidity environment), first evenly applied 2.5 g of the essence cream, then applied the facial mask, and washed it off after 15 minutes;
[0128] Baseline Measurement (immediate measurement): Before using the product, use the skin moisture test probe to measure the moisture content of the test site and record it as the blank value. Each test site was measured at least 3 times, and the average value was taken as the final result.
[0129] Immediate Effect Test (5 min): For the products of Examples 1 - 3 and Comparative Examples 1 - 4, first evenly apply 2.5 g of the essence cream, then apply the facial mask, and wash it off after 15 minutes; use the moisture content tester to measure the moisture content of the test site again and record it as the 5 - min value. Each test site was measured at least 3 times, and the average value was taken as the final result.
[0130] Short - term Effect Test (after 6 hours): After using the product for 6 hours, use the moisture content tester to measure the moisture content of the test site again and record it as the 6 - h value. Each test site was measured at least 3 times, and the average value was taken as the final result.
[0131] Next morning effect test (without washing face in the morning of the second day): On the morning of the second day after using the cream, do not wash the face, and use a moisture content tester to measure the moisture content of the test area again, and record it as the next morning value. Measure each test area at least 3 times and take the average value as the final result.
[0132] Data analysis
[0133] Compare the data before and after personal use, calculate the change rate, and calculate the average value.
[0134] Table 4 Change rate of skin moisture content
[0135] 5 min 1h 6h next morning Example 1 40.45% 24.48% 15.75% 20.57% Example 2 34.83% 15.85% 9.56% 14.56% Example 3 33.72% 13.27% 8.62% 16.37% Example 4 37.29% 22.85% 10.50% 19.57% Comparative Example 1 29.58% 14.77% 5.57% 9.98% Comparative Example 2 27.67% 13.36% 9.56% 11.57% Comparative Example 3 22.29% 10.32% 3.71% 8.49%
[0136] Conclusion: According to the data in Table 4, comparing Example 1 with Example 2 and Example 3, the reduction of polyhydroxystearic acid and polyquaternium-51 will affect the skin moisture content; comparing Example 1 with Example 4, with the same formula, the absence of the grinding step has a slight impact on the skin moisture content; comparing Example 1 with Comparative Example 1 and Comparative Example 2, the lack of polyhydroxystearic acid or polyquaternium-51 will have a serious impact on the skin moisture content; comparing Example 1 with Comparative Example 3, replacing with polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate and polyquaternium-61 with a similar structure has a certain impact on the skin moisture content; from the above data, it can be concluded that the combination of polyhydroxystearic acid and polyquaternium-51 can play a synergistic effect on the skin moisturizing ability.
[0137] (2) Dispersion test
[0138] Compare the dispersion state of the powder particles in the essence creams of Example 1 and Example 4 by microscope observation. The results show that Example 1 ( Figure 1 ) has more uniform particle distribution and no agglomeration phenomenon than Example 4 ( Figure 2 ).
[0139] (3) Consumer satisfaction test;
[0140] Subjects: Healthy Asian women aged 25 - 35, without skin problems;
[0141] Test area: Select the whole face as the test area;
[0142] Test steps: After the subjects clean their faces, let them stand still for 30 minutes (in a constant temperature and humidity environment), first evenly apply 2.5 g of essence cream, then apply a mask, and wash it off after 15 minutes;
[0143] Test indicators: Texture satisfaction, skin feel satisfaction, mildness satisfaction, overall satisfaction; Scoring criteria: Self-perception of the subjects, 0 points for dissatisfaction, 5 points for average, and 10 points for very satisfied.
[0144] Table 5 Consumer satisfaction test data
[0145] Texture satisfaction Skin feel satisfaction Gentleness satisfaction Overall satisfaction Example 1 8 8 8 8 Example 4 5 7 6 5 Product of W brand 5 9 8 6 Product of K brand 7 5 9 7 Product of H brand 7 8 6 7
[0146] Conclusion: According to the data in Table 5, when comparing Example 1 with Example 4, the essence cream treated by the grinding process has better performance in texture and skin feel; when comparing Example 1 with the products of W brand, K brand, and H brand: 1. The W brand is mainly based on the palmitate + silicone oil system, and the ingredient claims to contain a five - peptide complex (palmitoyl tripeptide - 5, acetyl hexapeptide - 8, etc.). However, it uses the water - in - oil emulsion technology, with a relatively thick texture, slightly poor spreadability, and the texture satisfaction is lower than that of Example 1, and it is on a par with Example 1 in other dimensions; 2. The K brand features a moisturizing combination of sodium hyaluronate + glucosyl glycerol, and a composite polymer. Although it can form a water - locking film, there is a sticky feeling, and the use experience is not good, and the skin feel satisfaction is lower than that of Example 1; 3. The H brand uses an ethanol + salicylic acid penetration - promoting system. Although it has good permeability, it has a greater irritation. The skin feel of the H brand is similar to that of Example 1, and irritation and tightness are perceived during and after washing, and the mildness is lower than that of Example 1. By comparing with the products of these three brands, it can be seen that Example 1 performs better in all dimensions.
[0147] In summary, the essence cream prepared based on polyhydroxystearic acid and polyquaternium - 51 can effectively improve the dispersion uniformity of powder particles, and the paste is more delicate and skin - friendly. Due to the synergistic effect of polyhydroxystearic acid and polyquaternium - 51 on the moisturizing effect, the moisturizing ability of the mask + essence cream combination is enhanced.
[0148] The above are only the preferred embodiments of the present invention and are not used to limit the present invention. For those skilled in the art, the present invention can have various changes and modifications. Any modification, equivalent replacement, improvement, etc. made within the spirit and principle of the present invention shall be included within the protection scope of the present invention.
Claims
1. An essence cream, characterized in that: The raw materials of the essence cream include powder raw materials; the powder raw materials include: polyhydroxystearic acid and / or polyquaternium-51.
2. The essence cream according to claim 1, characterized in that: The powder raw materials include polyhydroxystearic acid and polyquaternium-51; Optionally, the powder raw material includes 0.1 to 2 parts of polyhydroxystearic acid and 0.01 to 0.1 parts of polyquaternium-51, measured by weight.
3. The essence cream according to claim 1, characterized in that: The powder raw material also includes: powder particles; Optionally, the powder particles include any one or more of pearl powder, aluminum hydroxide, titanium dioxide and a first moisturizer; Optionally, the first humectant includes any one or more of glycerin, diglycerin and panthenol; Optionally, the particle size of the pearl powder is in the range of 0.1-0.5 microns. Optionally, the titanium dioxide comprises CI 77891; Optionally, the powder raw material includes, by weight: 0.1 to 2 parts of polyhydroxystearic acid, 0.01 to 0.1 parts of polyquaternium-51, 1 to 5 parts of pearl powder, 1 to 2 parts of aluminum hydroxide, 1 to 3 parts of titanium dioxide and 5 to 10 parts of glycerol.
4. The essence cream according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that: The raw materials of the essence cream also include: water phase raw materials and oil phase raw materials; Optionally, the water phase raw materials include: any one or more of water, a second humectant and a first thickener; Optionally, the second moisturizer includes: any one or more of glycerin, diglycerin and panthenol; Optionally, the first thickener includes: any one or more of hydroxyethyl cellulose, sodium polyacrylate and cetearyl alcohol; Optionally, the aqueous phase raw materials include, by weight: 50 to 70 parts of water, 5 to 10 parts of glycerin, 2 to 5 parts of diglycerin, 1 to 5 parts of panthenol, 0.1 to 5 parts of hydroxyethyl cellulose, 0.1 to 5 parts of sodium polyacrylate and 1 to 5 parts of cetearyl alcohol; Optionally, the oil phase raw materials include: a first emollient and an emulsifier; Optionally, the first emollient includes any one or more of caprylic / capric triglyceride, octyldodecyl myristate and caprylyl polymethicone; Optionally, the emulsifier includes: any one or more of glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate and sodium stearoyl glutamate; Optionally, the oil phase raw materials include, by weight: 2 to 16 parts of caprylic / capric triglyceride, 3 to 5 parts of octyldodecyl myristate, 2 to 6 parts of caprylyl polymethicone, 0.3 to 1 part of glyceryl stearate, 0.5 to 2 parts of PEG-100 stearate and 0.1 to 2 parts of sodium stearoyl glutamate; Optionally, the raw materials of the essence cream further include a first preservative; Optionally, the first preservative includes any one or more of phenoxyethanol and p-hydroxyacetophenone; Optionally, the raw materials of the essence cream include, by weight: 0.1 to 0.8 parts of phenoxyethanol and 0.1 to 0.5 parts of p-hydroxyacetophenone.
5. The method for preparing the essence cream according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that: It includes: The preparation method is prepared by using the raw materials of the essence cream described in any one of claims 1 to 4.
6. The preparation method according to claim 5, characterized in that: The preparation comprises the following steps: mixing and grinding the powder raw materials of the essence cream to obtain powder; mixing the water phase raw materials of the essence cream and heating them to 75-85° C. to obtain a water phase; mixing the oil phase raw materials of the essence cream and the powder and heating them to 75-85° C. to obtain an oil phase; mixing the water phase and the oil phase to obtain an essence cream; Optionally, the grinding is performed using a three-roll grinder; Optionally, the grinding includes grinding the powder to a particle size of ≤10 μm; Optionally, the grinding includes grinding the powder to a particle size of 0.1 to 1 μm; Optionally, the heating time after mixing the aqueous phase raw materials is 20 to 40 minutes; Optionally, the heating time after mixing the oil phase raw materials is 20 to 40 minutes; Optionally, the step of mixing the water phase and the oil phase comprises: stirring and cooling to 36-40° C.; Optionally, the preparation further comprises: adding a first preservative during the stirring and cooling process.
7. A composition, characterized in that It comprises the essence cream according to any one of claims 1 to 4 or the raw materials of the essence cream or the essence cream prepared by the preparation method according to claim 5 or 6.
8. The composition according to claim 7, characterized in that The composition also includes a facial mask or raw materials for the facial mask; Optionally, the facial mask comprises an emulsified facial mask; Optionally, the raw materials of the facial mask include: phase A raw materials and phase B raw materials; Optionally, the phase A raw materials include a third humectant and a second emollient; Optionally, the third moisturizer includes any one or more of butylene glycol, glycerol, hydrogenated lecithin and 1,2-hexanediol; Optionally, the second emollient includes: any one or more of hydrogenated polyisobutene, polydimethylsiloxane and triethylhexanoin; Optionally, the phase B raw materials include: water and a second thickener; Optionally, the second thickener includes: any one or more of hydroxyethyl cellulose, xanthan gum, acrylic acid (ester) / C10-30 alkyl acrylate cross-linked polymer; Optionally, the raw materials of the facial mask further include a second preservative; Optionally, the raw materials of the facial mask include, by weight: 5 to 10 parts of butylene glycol, 3 to 10 parts of glycerol, 0.2 to 3 parts of hydrogenated lecithin, 0.2 to 3 parts of 1,2-hexanediol, 0.1 to 5 parts of hydrogenated polyisobutylene, 0.1 to 5 parts of polydimethylsiloxane, 0.1 to 5 parts of tri(ethylhexanoic acid)glyceryl, 70 to 90 parts of water, 0.1 to 0.4 parts of hydroxyethyl cellulose, 0.05 to 0.5 parts of xanthan gum, 0.05 to 0.5 parts of acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate cross-linked polymer and 0.1 to 0.5 parts of a second preservative; Optionally, the second preservative includes any one or more of phenoxyethanol and p-hydroxyacetophenone; Optionally, the method for preparing the facial mask comprises the following steps: The mixed phase A raw materials are heated to 70-75° C. to obtain phase A; The mixed phase B raw materials are heated to 70-75° C. to obtain phase B; After mixing the phase A and the phase B, a facial mask is obtained; Optionally, the step of mixing the phase A and the phase B comprises: stirring and cooling to 36-40° C.; Optionally, the method for preparing the facial mask further comprises: adding a second preservative during the stirring and cooling process.
9. A cosmetic or skin care product, characterized in that: It includes: The essence cream according to any one of claims 1 to 4, or the essence cream prepared by the preparation method according to claim 5 or 6, or the composition according to claim 7 or 8.
10. A skin care method, characterized in that: It includes: Apply the essence cream according to any one of claims 1 to 4, or the essence cream prepared by the preparation method according to claim 5 or 6, or the composition according to claim 7 or 8, or the cosmetics or skin care products according to claim 9 to the subject to be skin-treated.
Citation Information
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