Composition comprising large amount of inorganic UV filter and organic UV filter selected from organosilicon compounds having benzotriazole group
By using a combination of coated inorganic UV filter and an organic silicon compound having benzotriazole groups in the cosmetic composition, the texture astringency caused by inorganic UV filter is solved, and a balance of sufficient UV shielding effect and smooth touch is achieved.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN202380081541.9
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Applications(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2023-01-06
- Filing Date
- 2023-11-14
- Publication Date
- 2025-07-04
AI Technical Summary
The relatively large number of inorganic UV filters in existing cosmetic compositions lead to astringent texture, making it difficult to provide a sufficient UV shielding effect and a smooth touch at the same time.
Compositions containing at least one inorganic UV filter and an organic silicon compound having benzotriazole groups are employed, wherein the inorganic UV filter agent content is greater than 5% by weight, and the stability and smoothness of the composition are ensured by using a combination of coated inorganic UV filter agent and a specific organic silicon compound.
Even if a relatively large amount of inorganic UV filter is contained, it can still provide sufficient UV shielding effect, especially UVA and UVB shielding, while providing a smooth touch before and after application and maintaining the stability of the composition.
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Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition comprising a relatively large amount of an inorganic UV filter and at least one organic UV filter selected from organosilicon compounds having at least one benzotriazole group, and to a cosmetic method using the composition and the use of the organic UV filter in a composition comprising a relatively large amount of an inorganic UV filter. Background Art
[0002] Many cosmetics contain one or more UV filters to shield UV rays. In particular, skin cosmetics usually contain organic and / or inorganic UV filters to protect the skin from UV rays. Since various types of damage to the skin caused by UV rays, such as wrinkles, are now well recognized, the demand for UV care cosmetics has further increased. Summary of the Invention
[0003] However, it has been found that if a composition contains a relatively large amount of an inorganic UV filter such as TiO2, the composition tends to provide a squeaky texture.
[0004] Therefore, an object of the present invention is to provide a composition that can provide a sufficient UV shielding effect and a smooth touch even if the composition contains a relatively large amount of an inorganic UV filter.
[0005] The above object of the present invention can be achieved by a composition comprising:
[0006] (a) at least one inorganic UV filter, and
[0007] (b) at least one organic UV filter selected from organosilicon compounds having at least one benzotriazole group,
[0008] wherein
[0009] relative to the total weight of the composition, the amount of (a) the inorganic UV filter is greater than 5% by weight.
[0010] (a) The inorganic UV filter may be selected from titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and mixtures thereof.
[0011] Relative to the total weight of the composition, the amount of (a) the inorganic UV filter in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less.
[0012] (b) The organic UV filter may be selected from silanes and polyorganosiloxanes containing at least one structural unit having the formula (1):
[0013] O (3-a) / 2Si(R7) a -G (1)
[0014] wherein
[0015] R7 is an optionally halogenated C1-C 10 alkyl group, phenyl group or trimethylsilyloxy group;
[0016] a is an integer from 0 to 3 (inclusive); and
[0017] G is a monovalent group directly bonded to the silicon atom and having the structural formula (2):
[0018]
[0019] wherein
[0020] the Y groups may be the same or different and are each a C1-C8 alkyl group, a halogen atom or a C1-C4 alkoxy group, provided that, in the latter case, two adjacent Y groups on the same aromatic ring may together form an alkylenedioxy group, wherein the alkylene moiety has 1 or 2 carbon atoms;
[0021] X is 0 or NH;
[0022] Z is hydrogen or a C1-C4 alkyl group;
[0023] n is an integer from 0 to 3 (inclusive);
[0024] m is 0 or 1; and
[0025] p is an integer from 1 to 10 (inclusive).
[0026] (b) The organic UV filter may be selected from benzotriazole-substituted silicone compounds having any one of the structural formulas (5) and (6):
[0027]
[0028]
[0029] wherein
[0030] the groups R7 may be the same or different and are each a C1-C 10 alkyl group, phenyl group, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl group or trimethylsilyloxy group, and at least 80% by number of the groups R7 are methyl groups;
[0031] the groups D may be the same or different and are each a group R7 or a group G;
[0032] r is an integer from 0 to 50 (inclusive), and s is an integer from 0 to 20 (inclusive), provided that if s = 0, then at least one of the two groups D is a group G;
[0033] u is an integer from 1 to 6 (inclusive), and t is an integer from 0 to 10 (inclusive), provided that t + u is equal to or greater than 3; and
[0034] The group G has the above structural formula (2).
[0035] (b) The organic UV filter may be selected from benzotriazole-substituted silicone compounds having the structural formula (7):
[0036]
[0037] where 0 ≤ r ≤ 10; 1 ≤ s ≤ 10; and E is a divalent group:
[0038]
[0039] (b) The organic UV filter may be cresyl triazone trisiloxane having the following structural formula:
[0040]
[0041] Relative to the total weight of the composition, the amount of the (b) organic UV filter in the composition according to the invention may be from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 10% by weight.
[0042] The composition according to the invention may further comprise (c) at least one fatty material.
[0043] Relative to the total weight of the composition, the amount of the (c) fatty material in the composition according to the invention may be from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight.
[0044] The composition according to the invention may further comprise (d) at least one phosphate / phosphate compound.
[0045] Relative to the total weight of the composition, the amount of the (d) phosphate / phosphate compound in the composition according to the invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight.
[0046] The composition according to the invention may be a cosmetic composition, preferably a skin cosmetic composition, and more preferably a skin care composition or a skin makeup composition.
[0047] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for keratin substrates such as the skin, said cosmetic method comprising applying the composition according to the invention to the keratin substrate.
[0048] The present invention also relates to the use of (b) at least one organic UV filter selected from organosilicon compounds having at least one benzotriazole group in a composition, wherein the composition comprises (a) at least one inorganic UV filter in an amount greater than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,
[0049] to improve the smooth texture of the composition.
[0050] Best mode of the present invention
[0051] After diligent research, the inventors have found that it is possible to provide a composition which, even when containing a relatively large amount of inorganic UV filter, can provide sufficient UV shielding effect and a smooth touch.
[0052] Accordingly, the composition according to the present invention comprises:
[0053] (a) at least one inorganic UV filter, and
[0054] (b) at least one organic UV filter selected from organosilicon compounds having at least one benzotriazole group,
[0055] wherein
[0056] relative to the total weight of the composition, the amount of (a) inorganic UV filter is greater than 5% by weight.
[0057] The composition according to the present invention can provide sufficient UV shielding effect and a smooth touch even when containing a relatively large amount of inorganic UV filter.
[0058] The composition according to the present invention can provide sufficient UV shielding effect, in particular both UVA shielding effect and UVB shielding effect are present.
[0059] The composition according to the present invention can reduce the feeling of roughness caused by the relatively large amount of (a) inorganic UV filter in the composition.
[0060] The composition according to the present invention can provide a smooth touch during application of the composition to keratinous materials such as the skin.
[0061] The composition according to the present invention can provide a smooth touch even after washing off the composition from keratinous materials such as the skin.
[0062] The composition according to the present invention is also stable such that it is homogeneous or there are no crystals of (b) organic UV filter.
[0063] The composition, method, use, etc. according to the present invention will be explained in more detail hereinafter.
[0064] [Inorganic UV filter agent]
[0065] The composition according to the invention comprises (a) at least one inorganic UV filter agent. If two or more inorganic UV filter agents are used, they may be the same or different, preferably the same.
[0066] The (a) inorganic UV filter agent used in the present invention can be active in the UV-A and / or UV-B regions. The (a) inorganic UV filter agent used in the present invention is water-insoluble in solvents commonly used in cosmetics such as water and ethanol, but can be hydrophilic and / or lipophilic.
[0067] Preferably, the (a) inorganic UV filter agent is in the form of fine particles such that the average (primary) particle size is from 1 nm to 50 nm, preferably from 5 nm to 40 nm, and more preferably from 10 nm to 30 nm. Here, the average (primary) particle size or average (primary) particle diameter is the arithmetic mean diameter.
[0068] (a) The inorganic UV filter agent can be selected from silicon carbide, metal oxides which may or may not be coated, and mixtures thereof.
[0069] Preferably, the (a) inorganic UV filter agent can be selected from pigments formed from metal oxides (average size of primary particles: generally from 5 nm to 50 nm, preferably from 10 nm to 50 nm), such as pigments formed from titanium dioxide (amorphous or crystalline in rutile and / or anatase form), iron oxide, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, all of which are UV light protectants known per se. Preferably, the (a) inorganic UV filter agent can be selected from titanium dioxide (TiO2), zinc oxide, and more preferably titanium oxide.
[0070] (a) The inorganic UV filter agent can be coated or uncoated. The (a) inorganic UV filter agent can have at least one coating. The coating can comprise at least one compound selected from the following: alumina, silica, aluminum hydroxide, silicone, silane, fatty acids or their salts (such as sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts), fatty alcohols, lecithin, amino acids, polysaccharides, proteins, alkanolamines, waxes such as beeswax, (meth)acrylic polymers, organic UV filter agents and (per)fluorinated compounds.
[0071] Preferably, the coating comprises at least one organic UV filter agent. As the organic UV filter agent in the coating, dibenzoylmethane derivatives can be preferably used, such as butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (avobenzone) and 2,2′-methylenebis[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1,1,3,3-tetramethyl-butyl)phenol] (methylenebis-benzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol), which is sold by BASF under the name “TINOSORB M”.
[0072] In a known manner, the silicone in the coating can be a silicone polymer or oligomer, which comprises linear or cyclic and branched or crosslinked structures with variable molecular weights, which are obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitable functional silanes and which essentially comprise repeating main units in which the silicon atoms are connected to one another via oxygen atoms (siloxane bonds) and optionally substituted hydrocarbon groups are directly connected to said silicon atoms via carbon atoms.
[0073] The term "silicone" also includes the silanes necessary for their preparation, in particular alkylsilanes.
[0074] The silicone for the coating can preferably be selected from alkylsilanes, polydialkylsiloxanes and polyalkylhydrosiloxanes. Even more preferably, the silicone is selected from octyltrimethylsilane, polydimethylsiloxane and polymethylhydrosiloxane.
[0075] Of course, the inorganic UV filter made of metal oxide can have been treated with other surface treatment agents before being treated with silicone, in particular with cerium oxide, aluminum oxide, silicon dioxide, aluminum compounds, silicon compounds, or mixtures thereof.
[0076] The coated inorganic UV filter can already be prepared by subjecting the inorganic UV filter to a surface treatment of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature using any of the compounds as described above and polyethylene, metal alkoxides (titanium alkoxide or aluminum alkoxide), metal oxides, sodium hexametaphosphate and those as shown, for example, in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, pages 53 - 64.
[0077] The coated inorganic UV filter can be titanium oxide coated with the following:
[0078] Silicon dioxide, such as the product "Sunveil" from Ikeda;
[0079] Silicon dioxide and iron oxide, such as the product "SunveilF" from Ikeda;
[0080] Silicon dioxide and aluminum oxide, such as the products "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500SA" from Tayca, "Tioveil" from Tioxide and "Mirasun TiW60" from Rhodia;
[0081] Aluminum oxide, such as the products "Tipaque TTO - 55(B)" and "Tipaque TTO - 55(A)" from Ishihara, and "UVT 14 / 4" from Kemira;
[0082] Aluminum oxide and aluminum stearate, such as products “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100T, MT100TX, MT 100Z or MT-01” from Tayca, products “Solaveil CT-10 W” and “Solaveil CT 100” from Uniqema, and product “EUsolex T-AVO” from Merck;
[0083] Aluminum oxide and aluminum laurate, such as product “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 S” from Tayca;
[0084] Iron oxide and iron stearate, such as product “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 F” from Tayca;
[0085] Zinc oxide and zinc stearate, such as product “BR351” from Tayca;
[0086] Silica and aluminum oxide, treated with silicone, such as products “MicrotitaniumDioxide MT 600 SAS”, “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SAS” and “MicrotitaniumDioxide MT 100 SAS” from Tayca;
[0087] Silica, aluminum oxide and aluminum stearate, treated with silicone, such as product “STT-30-DS” from Titan Kogyo;
[0088] Silica, treated with silicone, such as product “UV-Titan X195” from Kemira;
[0089] Aluminum oxide, treated with silicone, such as product “Tipaque TTO-55(S)” from Ishihara or “UV Titan M 262” from Kemira;
[0090] Triethanolamine, such as product “STT-65-S” from Titan Kogyo;
[0091] Stearic acid, such as product “Tipaque TTO-55(C)” from Ishihara; or
[0092] Sodium hexametaphosphate, such as product “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 150W” from Tayca.
[0093] Other silicone-treated titanium oxide pigments are preferably TiO₂ treated with octyltrimethylsilane and have an average size of individual particles of 25 to 40 nm, such as those sold by Degussa Silices under the trademark "T 805", TiO₂ treated with polydimethylsiloxane and having an average size of individual particles of 21 nm, such as those sold by Cardre under the trademark "70250Cardre UF TiO2Si3", and anatase / rutile TiO₂ treated with polydimethylhydrosiloxane and having an average size of individual particles of 25 nm, such as those sold by Color Techniques under the trademark "Microtitanium DioxideUSP Grade Hydrophobic".
[0094] Preferably, the following coated TiO₂ can be used as coated inorganic UV filters:
[0095] Stearic acid (and) aluminum hydroxide (and) TiO₂, such as the product "MT-100TV" from Tayca, which has an average primary particle size of 15 nm;
[0096] Polydimethylsiloxane (and) stearic acid (and) aluminum hydroxide (and) TiO₂, such as the product "SA-TTO-S4" from Miyoshi Kasei, which has an average primary particle size of 15 nm;
[0097] Silica (and) TiO₂, such as the product "MT-100 WP" from Tayca, which has an average primary particle size of 15 nm;
[0098] Polydimethylsiloxane (and) silica (and) aluminum hydroxide (and) TiO₂, such as the products "MT-Y02" and "MT-Y-110M3S" from Tayca, which have an average primary particle size of 10 nm;
[0099] Polydimethylsiloxane (and) aluminum hydroxide (and) TiO₂, such as the product "SA-TTO-S3" from Miyoshi Kasei, which has an average primary particle size of 15 nm;
[0100] Polydimethylsiloxane (and) aluminum oxide (and) TiO₂, such as the product "UV TITANM170" from Sachtleben, which has an average primary particle size of 15 nm; and
[0101] Silica (and) aluminum hydroxide (and) alginic acid (and) TiO₂, such as the product "MT-100 AQ" from Tayca, which has an average primary particle size of 15 nm.
[0102] In terms of UV filtering ability, TiO2 coated with at least one organic UV filter is preferably used. For example, avobenzone (and) stearic acid (and) aluminum hydroxide (and) TiO2 can be used, such as the product "HXMT-100ZA" from Tayca, which has an average primary particle size of 15 nm.
[0103] Uncoated titanium oxide pigments are sold, for example, by Tayca under the trademarks "Microtitanium Dioxide MT500B" or "Microtitanium Dioxide MT600B", by Degussa under the trademark "P25", by Wacker under the trademark "Oxyde detitane transparent PW", by Miyoshi Kasei under the trademark "UFTR", by Tomen under the trademark "ITS", and by Tioxide under the trademark "Tioveil AQ".
[0104] Uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:
[0105] Those sold by Sunsmart under the trademark "Z-cote";
[0106] Those sold by Elementis under the trademark "Nanox"; and
[0107] Those sold by Nanophase Technologies under the trademark "Nanogard WCD 2025".
[0108] Coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:
[0109] Those sold by Toshiba under the trademark "Oxide Zinc CS-5" (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrosiloxane);
[0110] Those sold by Nanophase Technologies under the trademark "Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN" (as a 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN, benzoic acid C 12 -C 15 alkyl ester);
[0111] Those sold by Daito under the trademarks "Daitopersion Zn-30" and "Daitopersion Zn-50" (dispersions in oxyethylated polydimethylsiloxane / cyclopolysiloxane, which contain 30% or 50% of zinc nano-oxide coated with silica and polymethylhydrosiloxane);
[0112] Those sold by Daikin under the trademark "NFD Ultrafine ZnO" (ZnO coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate / salt and copolymer based on perfluoroalkyl ethyl as a dispersion in cyclopentasiloxane);
[0113] Those sold by Shin-Etsu under the trademark "SPD-Z 1" (ZnO coated with silicone-grafted acrylic polymer dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane);
[0114] Those sold by ISP under the trademark "Escalol Z 100" (aluminum oxide-treated ZnO dispersed in a mixture of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate / PVP-hexene copolymer / polymethylsiloxane);
[0115] Those sold by Fuji Pigment under the trademark "Fuji ZnO-SMS-10" (ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane); and those sold by Elementis under the trademark "Nanox Gel TN" (ZnO dispersed at 55% in a condensate of C12-C15 alkyl benzoate and hydroxystearic acid).
[0116] Uncoated cerium oxide pigments are sold, for example, by Rhone-Poulenc under the trademark "Colloidal Cerium Oxide".
[0117] Uncoated iron oxide pigments are sold, for example, by Arnaud under the trademarks "Nanogard WCD 2002(FE 45B)", "Nanogard Iron FE 45BL AQ", "Nanogard FE 45R AQ" and "Nanogard WCD 2006(FE 45R)" or by Mitsubishi under the trademark "TY-220".
[0118] Coated iron oxide pigments are sold, for example, by Arnaud under the trademarks "Nanogard WCD 2008(FE 45B FN)", "Nanogard WCD 2009(FE 45B 556)", "Nanogard FE 45BL 345" and "Nanogard FE 45BL" or by BASF under the trademark "Oxyde de fer transparent".
[0119] Mixtures of metal oxides may also be mentioned, in particular mixtures of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including mixtures of titanium dioxide coated with silica and cerium dioxide coated with silica in equal weights, which are sold by Ikeda under the trademark "Sunveil A", and mixtures of titanium dioxide with zinc oxide coated with alumina, with silica and with silicone (such as the product "M 261" sold by Kemira) or mixtures of zinc oxide coated with alumina, with silica and with glycerol (such as the product "M 211" sold by Kemira).
[0120] Preferably coated inorganic UV filters, since the UV filtering effect of the inorganic UV filters can be enhanced. In addition, the coating can help to disperse the UV filter evenly or homogeneously in the composition according to the invention.
[0121] Based on the total weight of the composition, the amount of (a) inorganic UV filter in the composition according to the invention can be 5% by weight or more, preferably 6% by weight or more, and more preferably 7% by weight or more.
[0122] Based on the total weight of the composition, the amount of (a) inorganic UV filter in the composition according to the invention can be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less.
[0123] Based on the total weight of the composition, the amount of (a) inorganic UV filter in the composition according to the invention can be greater than 5% by weight and 20% by weight or less, preferably 6% by weight to 15% by weight, and more preferably 7% by weight to 10% by weight.
[0124] [Organic UV filter]
[0125] The composition according to the invention comprises (b) at least one organic UV filter selected from organosilicon compounds having at least one benzotriazole group. If two or more organic UV filters are used, they can be the same or different, preferably the same.
[0126] (b) The organic UV filter is selected from organosilicon compounds having at least one benzotriazole group.
[0127] The organosilicon compound having at least one benzotriazole group can be a silane or a siloxane having a benzotriazole functional group, and the benzotriazole functional group contains at least one structural unit of the following formula (1):
[0128] O (3-a) / 2 Si(R7) a -G (1)
[0129] Wherein
[0130] -R7 represents an optionally halogenated C1-C 10 alkyl group, phenyl group or trimethylsilyloxy group;
[0131] -a represents an integer from 0 to 3 (inclusive); and
[0132] -G represents a monovalent group directly bonded to a silicon atom and having the following structural formula (2):
[0133]
[0134] wherein
[0135] -The Y groups may be the same or different and are each a C1-C8 alkyl group, a halogen atom or a C1-C4 alkoxy group, provided that, in the latter case, two adjacent Y groups on the same aromatic ring may together form an alkylenedioxy group, wherein the alkylene moiety has 1 or 2 carbon atoms;
[0136] -X is O or NH;
[0137] -Z is hydrogen or a C1-C4 alkyl group;
[0138] -n is an integer from 0 to 3 (inclusive);
[0139] -m is 0 or 1; and
[0140] -p is an integer from 1 to 10 (inclusive).
[0141] These compounds are particularly described in EP-A-0,392,882; EP-A-0,660,701; EP-A-0,708,108; EP-A-0,711,778; and EP-A-711,779.
[0142] The organosilicon compounds having at least one benzotriazole group may preferably belong to the general family of benzotriazole silicones, which are particularly described in EP-A-0,660,701.
[0143] A family of benzotriazole silicones that is particularly preferred according to the present invention is those comprising compounds corresponding to the following structural formula (5) or (6):
[0144]
[0145] wherein
[0146] -The groups R7 may be the same or different and are each a C1-C 10 alkyl group, phenyl group, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl group or trimethylsilyloxy group, and at least 80% by number of the groups R7 are methyl groups;
[0147] -The groups D may be the same or different and are each a group R7 or a group G;
[0148] -r is an integer from 0 to 50 (inclusive), and s is an integer from 0 to 20 (inclusive), provided that if s = 0, then at least one of the two groups D is group G;
[0149] -u is an integer from 1 to 6 (inclusive), and t is an integer from 0 to 10 (inclusive), provided that t + u is equal to or greater than 3; and
[0150] Group G has the above structural formula (2).
[0151] As can be seen from formula (2) given above, the divalent group -(X) m -(CH2) p -CH(Z)-CH2- combined with the benzotriazole group (which thus ensures that the benzotriazole group is directly connected to the silicon atom) can be at any and all available positions of the two aromatic rings of the benzotriazole:
[0152]
[0153] Preferably, the combination is at the 3, 4, 5 (the aromatic ring with a hydroxyl functional group) or 4' position (the benzene ring adjacent to the triazole ring), and even more preferably at the 3, 4 or 5 position. In a more preferred embodiment of the present invention, the combination is at the 3 position.
[0154] Similarly, the connection of the substituent unit or unit Y can be at any and all other available positions in the benzotriazole. However, preferably, the combination is at the 3, 4, 4', 5 and / or 6 positions. In a more preferred embodiment of the present invention, the combination of group Y is at the 5 position.
[0155] In the above formulas (5) and (6), the alkyl group can be straight-chain or branched-chain, and is particularly selected from among methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, n-hexyl, n-heptyl, n-octyl, 2-ethylhexyl and tert-octyl. The preferred alkyl group R7 according to the present invention is methyl, ethyl, propyl, n-butyl, n-octyl and 2-ethylhexyl. Even more preferably, all groups R7 are methyl.
[0156] Among the compounds of the above formula (5) or (6), those corresponding to formula (5) are preferred, that is, the diorganosiloxanes containing short straight chains.
[0157] Among the compounds of the above formula (5), those in which both groups D are group R7 are preferred.
[0158] Among the straight-chain diorganosiloxanes according to formula (5), random derivatives or well-defined block derivatives having at least one, and even more preferably having all of the following characteristics are more particularly preferred:
[0159] -D is the group R7;
[0160] -R7 is an alkyl group, and even more preferably a methyl group;
[0161] -r is from 0 to 15 (inclusive);
[0162] -s is from 1 to 10 (inclusive);
[0163] -n is non-zero and preferably equal to 1, and then Y is methyl, tert-butyl or C1-C4 alkoxy;
[0164] -Z is hydrogen or methyl;
[0165] -m = 0 or [m = 1 and X = 0]; and
[0166] -p is equal to 1.
[0167] A family of benzotriazole silicones that are particularly suitable according to the present invention are those having the following structural formula (7):
[0168]
[0169] wherein
[0170] 0 ≤ r ≤ 10; 1 ≤ s ≤ 10; and
[0171] E is a divalent group:
[0172]
[0173] In a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, the benzotriazole silicone is the compound methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (CTFA name) corresponding to the following structural formula:
[0174]
[0175] Methods suitable for preparing the compounds of formulas (1), (5), (6) and (7) are described in particular in U.S. Patent Nos. 3,220,972, 3,697,473, 4,340,709, 4,316,033 and 4,328,346, as well as in EP-A-0,392,883 and EP-A-0,742,003.
[0176] Relative to the total weight of the composition, the amount of (b) the organic UV filter in the composition according to the present invention can be 1% by weight or more, preferably 2% by weight or more, and more preferably 3% by weight or more.
[0177] Based on the total weight of the composition, the amount of (b) organic UV filter in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less.
[0178] Based on the total weight of the composition, the amount of (b) organic UV filter in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% by weight to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 3% by weight to 10% by weight.
[0179] [Fat material]
[0180] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (c) at least one fat material. If two or more fat materials are used, they may be the same or different.
[0181] The term "fat material" refers to an organic compound that is insoluble in water (less than 5%, preferably 1% by weight, and even more preferably 0.1% by weight solubility) at conventional temperature (25 °C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The fat material may contain in its structure a sequence of at least two siloxane groups or at least one hydrocarbon-based chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms. In addition, the fat material may be soluble in organic solvents such as chloroform, ethanol, benzene, or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane under the same temperature and pressure conditions.
[0182] Within the scope of the present invention, it must be noted that the fat material does not contain any C2-C3 oxyalkylene units or any glycerolated units.
[0183] (c) The fat material may be in liquid or solid form. Here, "liquid" and "solid" refer to the fat material that is in liquid or paste (non-solid) or solid form respectively at ambient temperature (25 °C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 10 5 Pa). Preferably, (c) the fat material comprises at least one fat material that is in liquid or paste form, preferably liquid form, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The (c) fat material in liquid form at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure may be referred to as "oil". Preferably, (c) the fat material is selected from oils.
[0184] If (c) the fat material is selected from oils, the composition according to the present invention may have one oil phase or multiple oil phases.
[0185] If (c) the fat material is selected from oils, (c) the fat material may be selected from polar oils, non-polar oils, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, (c) the fat material is selected from polar oils.
[0186] (c) The fatty material can be selected from oils of animal or vegetable origin, mineral oils, synthetic glycerides, esters of fatty alcohols and / or fatty acids other than animal or vegetable oils and synthetic glycerides, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, silicone oils, and hydrocarbons. These fatty materials can be volatile or non-volatile. Preferably, (c) the fatty material is selected from oils of animal or vegetable origin, synthetic glycerides, fatty esters other than animal or vegetable oils and synthetic glycerides, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, silicone oils, and hydrocarbons. More preferably, (c) the fatty material is selected from silicones and hydrocarbons, preferably aliphatic hydrocarbons, and more preferably mineral oils, and mixtures thereof.
[0187] As examples of aliphatic hydrocarbons, for example, straight-chain or branched hydrocarbons can be mentioned, such as mineral oils (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin wax, petrolatum or petrolatum, naphthalene, etc.; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam and decene / butene copolymers; and mixtures thereof.
[0188] As examples of other aliphatic hydrocarbons, straight-chain or branched, or cyclic C6-C 16 lower alkanes can also be mentioned. Examples that can be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins such as isocetane and isodecane.
[0189] As examples of synthetic glycerides, for example, triglyceride of caprylic / capric acid can be mentioned, such as those sold by Stéarineries Dubois or those sold by Dynamit Nobel under the names 810, 812, and 818.
[0190] As examples of silicone oils, for example, straight-chain organopolysiloxanes such as polydimethylsiloxane or dimethicone, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, etc.; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, etc.; and mixtures thereof can be mentioned.
[0191] As examples of vegetable oils, for example, linseed oil, camellia seed oil, macadamia nut oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, soybean oil, arara oil, hazelnut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, camellia oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof can be mentioned.
[0192] As examples of animal oils, for example, squalene, perhydrosqualene, and squalane can be mentioned.
[0193] As examples of esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols that are advantageously different from the above-mentioned animal or vegetable oils and synthetic glycerides, in particular, saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched C1-C26 esters of aliphatic mono- or polycarboxylic acids and saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched C1-C 26 aliphatic mono- or polyhydric alcohols, the total carbon number of said esters being greater than or equal to 10.
[0194] Among the mono-esters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl behenate; C 12 -C 15 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; myristyl stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate; octyl palmitate; octyl nonanoate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, butyl myristate, cetyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, myristyl myristate or myristyl stearate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate.
[0195] Still within the context of this variant, C4-C 22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids with C1-C 22 esters of alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids with C2-C 26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
[0196] Particular mention may be made of the following: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearyloxystearate; pentaerythritol monoricinoleate; pentaerythritol tetraisononanoate; pentaerythritol tetranonanoate; pentaerythritol tetraisostearate; pentaerythritol tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; propylene glycol didecanoate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; triglycerol trilactate; triglycerol trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distearate.
[0197] Among the above esters, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate or stearyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, butyl myristate, cetyl myristate or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate or cetyl octanoate are preferably used.
[0198] The composition may also contain C6-C 30 fatty acids and preferably C 12 -C 22 glycosides and diesters of fatty acids as fatty esters. The term "sugar" refers to an oxygen-containing hydrocarbon-based compound containing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and containing at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
[0199] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fructose, maltose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and their derivatives, especially alkyl derivatives such as methyl derivatives, such as methyl glucose.
[0200] The glycosides of fatty acids can especially be selected from the sugars previously described and esters or mixtures of esters of straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C 30 fatty acids and preferably C 12 -C 22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may contain one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0201] The esters according to this variant can also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and their mixtures.
[0202] These esters can be selected from, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof, especially, for example, mixed esters of oleate-palmitate, oleate-stearate and palmitate-stearate.
[0203] Monoesters and diesters are more particularly preferably used, and especially sucrose, glucose or methyl glucose monooleate or dioleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate and oleostearate.
[0204] An example that may be mentioned is the product sold by Amerchol under the name DO, which is methyl glucose dioleate.
[0205] Examples of esters or mixtures of esters of sugars and fatty acids that may also be mentioned include:
[0206] - Products sold by Crodesta under the names F160, F140, F110, F90, F70, and SL40, which represent sucrose palmitostearates formed from the following, respectively: 73% monoesters and 27% diesters and triesters, 61% monoesters and 39% diesters, triesters, and tetraesters, 52% monoesters and 48% diesters, triesters, and tetraesters, 45% monoesters and 55% diesters, triesters, and tetraesters, 39% monoesters and 61% diesters, triesters, and tetraesters, and sucrose monolaurate;
[0207] - Products sold under the name Ryoto Sugar Esters, which are, for example, designated as B370 and correspond to sucrose behenate formed from 20% monoesters and 80% di-, tri-, and polyester esters;
[0208] - Sucrose mono - dipalmito - stearate sold by Goldschmidt under the name PSE.
[0209] The fatty material can be at least one fatty acid, and two or more fatty acids can be used. The fatty acid should be in the acidic form (i.e., not alkalized to avoid soaps), and can be saturated or unsaturated, contain 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and especially 9 to 30 carbon atoms, which are optionally substituted, especially by one or more hydroxyl groups (especially 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds can contain one to three conjugated or non - conjugated carbon - carbon double bonds. They are more particularly selected from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and isostearic acid. Preferably, the fatty material is not a fatty acid.
[0210] The fatty material can be at least one fatty alcohol, and two or more fatty alcohols can be used.
[0211] The term "fatty alcohol" as used herein refers to any saturated or unsaturated, straight - chain or branched - chain C8 - C 30 fatty alcohol, which is optionally substituted, especially by one or more hydroxyl groups (especially 1 - 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds can contain one to three conjugated or non - conjugated carbon - carbon double bonds.
[0212] Among the C8 - C 30 fatty alcohols, for example, C 12 - C 22Fatty alcohols. Among these alcohols, lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, and brassidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof can be mentioned. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, or a mixture thereof (such as cetearyl alcohol) and myristyl alcohol can be used as solid fat materials. In another embodiment, isostearyl alcohol can be used as a liquid fat material.
[0213] The fat material can be a wax. Herein, "wax" means that the fat material is substantially in a solid form at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), and has a melting point of usually 35 °C or higher. As the waxy fat material, waxes commonly used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination.
[0214] For example, the wax can be selected from carnauba wax, microcrystalline wax, ozokerite, hydrogenated jojoba oil, polyethylene wax such as the wax sold under the name "Performalene 400 Polyethylene" by New Phase Technologies, silicone wax such as poly(C 24 -C 28 ) alkyl methyldimethylsiloxane such as the product sold under the name "Abil Wax9810" by Goldschmidt, palm fat, stearic acid C 20 -C 40 alkyl esters sold under the name "Kester Wax K82H" by Kester Keunen, stearyl benzoate, shellac wax, and mixtures thereof. For example, waxes selected from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ozokerite, hydrogenated jojoba oil, and polyethylene wax can be used. In at least one embodiment, the wax is preferably selected from candelilla wax and ozokerite, and mixtures thereof.
[0215] Preferably, (c) the fat material is selected from ester oils, fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the ester oils are selected from mono-esters, di-esters in oil form, and mixtures thereof.
[0216] Based on the total weight of the composition, the amount of (c) the fat material in the composition according to the present invention can be 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more.
[0217] Based on the total weight of the composition, the amount of (c) the fat material in the composition according to the present invention can be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less.
[0218] Based on the total weight of the composition, the amount of (c) fatty material in the composition according to the present invention can be 1% to 20% by weight, preferably 3% to 15% by weight, and more preferably 5% to 10% by weight.
[0219] [Phosphate / phosphate salt compound]
[0220] The composition according to the present invention comprises (d) at least one phosphate / phosphate salt compound. Two or more (d) phosphate / phosphate salt compounds can be used in combination. Therefore, a single type of phosphate / phosphate salt or a combination of different types of phosphate / phosphate salts can be used.
[0221] The term "phosphate / phosphate salt compound" herein refers to a compound having at least one phosphate group.
[0222] The "phosphate / phosphate salt compound" can have at least one phosphoric acid group, particularly one phosphate group.
[0223] The phosphate / phosphate salt compound can be selected from organic phosphates, inorganic phosphates, and mixtures thereof.
[0224] Preferably, the inorganic phosphate can be selected from inorganic salts of phosphoric acid, such as metal salts or ammonium salts of phosphoric acid.
[0225] More preferably, the inorganic phosphate can be in the form of a metal salt. The metal salt can be an alkali metal salt. The alkali metal salt can be selected from alkali metal salts of phosphoric acid, such as sodium dihydrogen phosphate, disodium hydrogen phosphate, or trisodium phosphate, and potassium dihydrogen phosphate, dipotassium hydrogen phosphate, or tripotassium phosphate. Even more preferably, it can be dipotassium hydrogen phosphate.
[0226] Preferably, the organic phosphate can be selected from esters of phosphoric acid, such as mono-organic phosphates, di-organic phosphates, or tri-organic phosphates.
[0227] According to one embodiment, the (d) phosphate / phosphate salt compound can be selected from
[0228] (1) Compounds of formula (XIV):
[0229]
[0230] wherein R1, R2, and R3 can be the same or different and are selected from:
[0231] OM group, where M represents an alkali metal such as Na, Li, or K, preferably Na or K,
[0232] group OR4, where R4 represents a straight-chain, branched-chain, cyclic, or aromatic C5-C 40 alkyl group, preferably C 12 -C 20 alkyl group, and more preferably C16 or C 18 alkyl
[0233] OH group, and
[0234] oxyethylene group (OCH2CH2) n (OCH2CHCH3) m OR, where R represents a hydrogen atom or a straight-chain or branched C1-C 20 alkyl, such as C5-C 18 and C 12 -C 15 alkyl, and n and m are integers, where n is from 1 to 50 or equal to 10, and m is from 0 to 50 or equal to 0
[0235] (2) glycerophospholipid, and
[0236] (3) its mixture
[0237] Preferably, in formula (XIV), at least one of R1, R2, and R3 is the group -OM, and at least one of R1, R2, and R3 is the group -OR4 or -(OCH2CH2) n (OCH2CH(CH3)) m OR, where n and m are defined as above
[0238] Preferably, in formula (XIV), at least one of R1, R2, and R3 is the group -OM, at least one of R1, R2, and R3 is the group -OH, and at least one of R1, R2, and R3 is the group -OR4 or -(OCH2CH2) n (OCH2CH(CH3)) m OR, where n and m are defined as above
[0239] Preferably, in formula (XIV), one of R1, R2, and R3 is the group -OM, one of R1, R2, and R3 is the group -OH, and one of R1, R2, and R3 is the group -OR4 or -(OCH2CH2) n (OCH2CH(CH3)) m OR, where n and m are defined as above
[0240] Preferably, in formula (XIV), at least one, or two, or even all of the groups R1, R2, and R3 contain the group -OR4, where R4 represents a straight-chain or branched C 10 -C 30 especially C 15 -C 20 or even C 16 or C 18Alkyl. In this case, R1, R2 and R3 may be the same or different.
[0241] As a non-limiting illustration of these compounds of formula (XIV), mention may be made, for example, of trioleyl phosphate, such as Nikko TDP sold by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd., a mixture of a triester phosphate with ethylene glycol and an ether of a C 12 -C 15 fatty alcohol (about 10 EO) (INCI name: tri-C 12-15 alkoxylated alcohol-10 phosphate), such as Nikkol TDP-10 sold by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd., potassium cetyl phosphate, such as Amphisol K sold by DSM Nutritional Products or Arlatone MAP 160K from Uniqema, and ceteth-10 phosphate, such as Protaphos CET-10 sold by Protameen Chemicals Co., Ltd.
[0242] Preferably, the (d) phosphate / salt compound may have the function of a surfactant. Thus, the (d) phosphate / salt compound may be a phosphate / salt surfactant.
[0243] (d) The phosphate / salt compound may be selected from mono-phosphates of alkoxylated fatty alcohols containing 12 to 20 carbon atoms with 1 to 50 moles of alkylene oxides selected from ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, and di-alkyl phosphates of non-alkoxylated alcohols containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof. The alkyl moiety of the fatty alcohol or non-alkoxylated alcohol may be a straight-chain or branched-chain or saturated or unsaturated alkyl group.
[0244] The phosphate / salt compound may be selected from combinations of ceteth-10 phosphate and dicetyl phosphate, combinations of ceteth-20 phosphate and dicetyl phosphate, and combinations of oleth-5 phosphate and dioleyl phosphate.
[0245] As a product containing a combination of ceteth-10 phosphate and dicetyl phosphate, mention may be made of CRODAFOS CES sold by Croda Inc., U.S.A. As a product containing a combination of ceteth-20 phosphate and dicetyl phosphate, mention may be made of CRODAFOS CS-20ACID sold by Croda Inc., U.S.A. As a product containing a combination of oleth-5 phosphate and dioleyl phosphate, mention may be made of CRODAFOS HCE sold by Croda Inc., U.S.A.
[0246] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "glycerophospholipid" is intended to denote an ester obtained by reacting glycerol with at least one saturated or unsaturated fatty acid and phosphoric acid, said phosphoric acid being substituted by a compound selected from alcohols bearing an amine functional group, in particular a β-amino alcohol. The β-amino alcohol may be selected, for example, from choline, ethanolamine and / or serine.
[0247] Glycerophospholipids can be defined according to the following general formula (XV):
[0248]
[0249] wherein:
[0250] R1 and R2 independently of one another represent a saturated or unsaturated, optionally branched fatty acid containing from 4 to 24 carbon atoms and which may be substituted by one or more hydroxyl and / or amine functional groups, and
[0251] X represents a substituent of the general formula R3R4R5N + -CH(R6)-CH2-, wherein R3, R4, R5 and R6 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and / or a carboxyl functional group. X may in particular be selected from choline, serine and ethanolamine.
[0252] According to one embodiment, R1 and R2 are independent of one another and are advantageously selected from butyric acid, caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, decenoic acid, lauric acid, laurenoic acid, myristic acid, myristoleic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidic acid, isostearic acid, dihydroxystearic acid and ricinoleic acid.
[0253] Glycerophospholipids may also be a mixture of compounds of general formula (XV).
[0254] Glycerophospholipids suitable for use in the present invention may include, for example, phosphatidylcholine, phosphatidylethanolamine and / or phosphatidylserine.
[0255] According to one embodiment, glycerophospholipids may include esters of glycerol, unsaturated fatty acids, phosphoric acid and choline, which are also known as phosphatidylcholine (PC).
[0256] Glycerophospholipids suitable for use in the present invention may be derived from lecithin. Lecithin may mainly comprise phosphatidylcholine as the glycerophospholipid.
[0257] Phosphatidylcholine (PC) suitable for use in the compositions according to the present invention may be of "natural" or "synthetic" origin.
[0258] "Natural" PC can be obtained by extraction from animal or plant sources, such as soybeans, sunflowers or eggs. For example, non-hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine naturally obtained from soybeans usually contains palmitic acid, stearic acid, palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and optionally C 20 -C 22 fatty acids.
[0259] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "synthetic phosphatidylcholine" is intended to mean phosphatidylcholine comprising at least one fatty acid different from those fatty acids which may be present in natural PC.
[0260] The term "synthetic PC" is also intended to mean natural PC which has been modified, such as partially hydrogenated natural PC, i.e. only a part of the double bonds present in the unsaturated fatty acids are retained.
[0261] Among the sources of more or less purified phosphatidylcholine suitable for use in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of Emulmetik 930 sold by Lucas Meyer.
[0262] The glycerophospholipids suitable for use in the present invention may be introduced into the composition in the form of lecithin. This lecithin is generally obtained by lipid extraction from vegetable or animal fats using a non-polar solvent. This lipid fraction generally mainly comprises glycerophospholipids, including phosphatidylcholine or phosphatidylethanolamine.
[0263] The lecithin suitable for use in the present invention may be lecithin derived from soybeans, sunflowers or eggs and / or mixtures thereof.
[0264] Lecithin is generally provided in a form dissolved in fatty acids, triglycerides or other solvents, or in the form of a powder or cake.
[0265] They are generally mixtures of lecithin, in which the content of glycerophospholipids in the product sold as such is generally from about at least 15% to about at least 95%.
[0266] In one exemplary embodiment, the lecithin used as a starting material for preparing the composition according to the invention comprises at least 45% by weight, such as at least 65% by weight, such as at least 75% by weight, such as at least 85% by weight, or such as at least 95% by weight of glycerophospholipids, relative to the total weight of the lecithin.
[0267] Among the lecithins which may be suitable for use in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of those sold by the American Lecithin Company under the reference names Nattermann Phospholipon and Phosale and lecithins sold by Lucas Meyer under the reference names Epikuron 145V, Topcithin 300, Emulmetik 930 and Ovothin 200.
[0268] The glycerophospholipid can be a non-hydrogenated glycerophospholipid, i.e., an ester obtained by reacting glycerol with at least one unsaturated fatty acid and phosphoric acid, said phosphoric acid being substituted by a compound selected from alcohols with an amine functional group, in particular β-aminoalcohol.
[0269] The terms "unsaturated" and "degree of unsaturation" are intended to mean that there is at least one or even several double or triple bonds between two carbon atoms.
[0270] The glycerophospholipid can be phosphatidylcholine or lecithin.
[0271] (d) The phosphate ester / salt compound can be selected from trioleyl phosphate, a mixture of triester phosphate with ethylene glycol and C 12 -C 15 ethers of fatty alcohols (about 10 EO), potassium cetyl phosphate, ceteth-10 phosphate, dipotassium hydrogen phosphate, cetyl phosphate and lecithin, and mixtures thereof.
[0272] (d) The phosphate ester / salt compound can be a non-ionic surfactant, such as trioleyl phosphate or a mixture of triester phosphate with ethylene glycol and C 12 -C 15 ethers of fatty alcohols (about 10 EO).
[0273] Relative to the total weight of the composition, the amount of the (d) phosphate ester / salt compound in the composition according to the invention can be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more.
[0274] Relative to the total weight of the composition, the amount of the (d) phosphate ester / salt compound in the composition according to the invention can be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less.
[0275] Relative to the total weight of the composition, the amount of the (d) phosphate ester / salt compound in the composition according to the invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight.
[0276] [Water]
[0277] The composition according to the invention can comprise (d) water.
[0278] Based on the total weight of the composition, the amount of (e) water in the composition according to the present invention can be 40% by weight or more, preferably 45% by weight or more, and more preferably 50% by weight or more.
[0279] On the other hand, based on the total weight of the composition, the amount of (e) water in the composition according to the present invention can be 90% by weight or less, preferably 85% by weight or less, and more preferably 80% by weight or less.
[0280] Based on the total weight of the composition, the amount of (e) water in the composition according to the present invention can be from 40% by weight to 90% by weight, preferably from 45% by weight to 85% by weight, and more preferably from 50% by weight to 80% by weight.
[0281] [Optional ingredients]
[0282] Within the scope that does not impair the effects of the present invention, the composition according to the present invention may contain at least one optional ingredient commonly used in cosmetics, specifically, for example, dyes, fillers, surfactants or emulsifiers other than ingredient (d), thickeners, film-forming polymers, natural extracts derived from animals or vegetables, and the like.
[0283] The composition according to the present invention may contain one or several cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, which may be alcohols: especially monohydric alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol and phenethyl alcohol; diols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and caprylyl glycol; other polyhydric alcohols such as glycerol; and ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether and ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monoethyl ether and propylene glycol monobutyl ether, and butylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glycol monoethyl ether and butylene glycol monobutyl ether.
[0284] Based on the total weight of the composition, the amount of the organic solvent in the composition according to the present invention can be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more.
[0285] On the other hand, based on the total weight of the composition, the amount of the organic solvent in the composition according to the present invention can be 30% by weight or less, preferably 25% by weight or less, and more preferably 20% by weight or less.
[0286] Therefore, based on the total weight of the composition, the amount of the organic solvent in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 1% by weight to 20% by weight.
[0287] [Preparation]
[0288] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredients as described above and the optional ingredients as described above (if necessary).
[0289] There are no restrictions on the methods and means for mixing the above essential and optional components. Any conventional methods and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional components to prepare the compositions according to the present invention.
[0290] [Form]
[0291] There are no restrictions on the form of the compositions according to the present invention.
[0292] Preferably, the compositions according to the present invention are of the O / W type, more preferably in the form of an O / W emulsion, and even more preferably an O / W gel emulsion.
[0293] The O / W structure or configuration containing an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase has an external aqueous phase, and thus products based on the O / W structure or configuration are more pleasant to use due to the immediate fresh feeling they can provide.
[0294] [Cosmetic methods and uses]
[0295] The compositions according to the present invention can be intended for use as cosmetic compositions. Therefore, the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention can be intended for application to keratinous substances. Here, keratinous substances refer to materials containing keratin as the main constituent element, and examples thereof include skin, scalp, nails, lips, hair, and the like. Therefore, preferably, the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention are used in cosmetic methods for keratinous substances, especially the skin.
[0296] Therefore, the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention can be skin cosmetic compositions, and preferably skin care compositions or skin makeup compositions.
[0297] The compositions according to the present invention can preferably be used as leave-on or rinse-off cosmetic compositions for keratinous substances such as the skin. Here, the term "leave-on" means that the compositions according to the present invention are not removed from the keratinous substances after being applied to the keratinous substances. Here, the term "rinse-off" means that the compositions according to the present invention are removed from the keratinous substances by rinsing after being applied to the keratinous substances. Water can be used for rinsing. Even after rinsing, the compositions according to the present invention can remain to form a film or coating on the keratinous substances such as the skin.
[0298] The present invention also relates to:
[0299] A cosmetic method for a keratinous substrate such as the skin, the cosmetic method comprising applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous substrate.
[0300] The cosmetic method herein refers to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for caring for and / or making up the surface of a keratinous substrate such as the skin.
[0301] Since the composition according to the invention comprises (a) an inorganic UV filter and (b) an organic UV filter, this cosmetic method can protect keratinous substrates such as the skin from UV rays, thereby limiting the darkening of the skin, improving the color and uniformity of the skin tone, and / or treating the aging of the skin.
[0302] The invention also relates to:
[0303] The use of (b) at least one organic UV filter selected from organosilicon compounds having at least one benzotriazole group in a composition, wherein the composition comprises (a) at least one inorganic UV filter in an amount greater than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,
[0304] to improve the smooth texture of the composition.
[0305] The use according to the invention can reduce the astringent feeling caused by the relatively large amount of (a) inorganic UV filter in the composition.
[0306] The use according to the invention can provide an improved smooth texture during the application of the composition to keratinous materials such as the skin.
[0307] The use according to the invention can even provide an improved smooth texture after washing off the composition from keratinous materials such as the skin.
[0308] The description regarding components (a) to (d) of the composition according to the invention is applicable to those in the use according to the invention. Examples
[0309] The invention will be described in more detail by way of examples. However, they should not be construed as limiting the scope of the invention.
[0310] [Examples 1 - 6 and Comparative Examples 1 - 27]
[0311] [Preparation]
[0312] The compositions according to Examples 1 - 6 and Comparative Examples 1 - 27 were prepared by mixing the components shown in Tables 1 - 4 at room temperature (25 °C). The numerical values of the amounts of the components in Tables 1 - 4 are all based on "weight %" as the raw materials.
[0313]
[0314]
[0315]
[0316]
[0317]
[0318]
[0319]
[0320] [Evaluation]
[0321] (In vitro SPF)
[0322] Each composition according to Examples 1-6 and Comparative Examples 1-27 will be applied to a PMMA (polymethyl methacrylate) plate at 25 °C in an amount of 1.3 mg / cm 2 . After drying each composition, the UV absorption spectrum of the composition is measured using an SPF analyzer (UV-2000S), and its in vitro SPF value is calculated from the UVB absorption intensity measured by the SPF analyzer.
[0323] The results are shown in Tables 1-4.
[0324] (In vitro PPD)
[0325] Each composition according to Examples 1-6 and Comparative Examples 1-27 will be applied to a PMMA (polymethyl methacrylate) plate at 25 °C in an amount of 1.3 mg / cm 2 . After drying each composition, the UV absorption spectrum of the composition is measured using an SPF analyzer (UV-2000S), and its in vitro PPD (persistent pigment darkening) value is calculated from the UVA absorption / UVB absorption ratio based on the UVA absorption and UVB absorption measured by the SPF analyzer.
[0326] The results are shown in Tables 1-4.
[0327] (Smoothness during application)
[0328] Each composition according to Examples 1-6 and Comparative Examples 1-27 will be applied to the underarms of 3 experts by finger in an amount of 2 mg / cm 2 . The panel members evaluate the smoothness during application on a scale of 1 (very rough = astringent) to 5 (very smooth), and the scores of the scale are averaged.
[0329] The results are shown in Tables 1-4.
[0330] (Smoothness after washing off)
[0331] Each composition according to Examples 1-6 and Comparative Examples 1-27 will be applied to the underarms of 3 experts by finger in an amount of 2 mg / cm 2An amount of 100% was applied to the underarms of 3 experts with fingers. The panelists rated the smoothness of the composition after rinsing off with tap water on a scale of 2 (very rough = scratchy) to 5 (very smooth), and averaged the scores of the scale.
[0332] The results are shown in Tables 1-4.
[0333] (stability)
[0334] After storage at 4° C. for 1 month from the preparation of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 27, each composition was subjected to microscopic observation to examine the crystallization of the organic UV filter.
[0335] Specifically, a small droplet of each composition according to Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 27 was placed on a transparent glass plate and covered with a cover glass, and was observed with a polarizing microscope (Olympus BX51).
[0336] If no crystals are found, the assessment is good.
[0337] If any crystals were found, the assessment was poor.
[0338] The results are shown in Tables 1-4.
[0339] (Summary)
[0340] The compositions according to Examples 1 to 6 can provide adequate UV protection with respect to both UVA and UVB as well as a smooth feel during application and after washing off, even though they comprise relatively large amounts of TiO2 as (a) inorganic UV filter.
[0341] Furthermore, the compositions according to Examples 1 to 6 were stable, so that no crystals of drometrizole trisiloxane as the (b) organic UV filter were found therein.
[0342] The composition according to Comparative Example 1 did not include drometrizole trisiloxane, and therefore, the UV protection of the composition was insufficient, and its smoothness was not good.
[0343] The composition according to Comparative Example 2 does not include TiO2, and therefore, the UV protection of the composition is insufficient.
[0344] The composition according to Comparative Example 3 contained less than 5 wt % of TiO 2 , and therefore, the UV protection of the composition was insufficient.
[0345] The composition according to Comparative Examples 4-27 does not include drometrizole trisiloxane, and therefore, the smoothness thereof during application or after washing off is not good, or the UV protection of the composition (particularly against UVA) is insufficient.
[0346] [Examples 7 - 11]
[0347] [Preparation]
[0348] Each composition according to Examples 7 - 11 was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 5 at room temperature (25 °C). The numerical values of the amounts of the ingredients in Table 5 are all based on "wt%" as the raw materials.
[0349]
[0350]
[0351] [Evaluation]
[0352] (Emulsion stability)
[0353] Two months after storage at 45 °C from the preparation of the compositions according to Examples 7 - 11, each composition was subjected to visual observation.
[0354] Specifically, 40 g of each composition according to Examples 7 - 11 was filled into a transparent glass bottle and stored at 45 °C for two months. The appearance of the transparent glass bottle was visually observed.
[0355] If no change was observed, it was evaluated as good.
[0356] If a slight color change or slight phase separation (e.g., floating oil on the top) was found, it was evaluated as fair.
[0357] If a color change or phase separation was found, it was evaluated as poor.
[0358] The results are shown in Table 5.
[0359] (Summary)
[0360] The compositions according to Examples 7, 8 and 10 were more stable, while the compositions according to Examples 9 and 11 that did not contain isopropyl myristate or potassium cetyl phosphate were less stable.
[0361] Therefore, it is preferred that the composition containing TiO2 and cresotriazone trisiloxane further contains (c) a fatty material such as isopropyl myristate and / or (d) a phosphate / salt compound such as potassium cetyl phosphate.
Claims
1. A composition, comprising: (a) at least one inorganic UV filter; and (b) at least one organic UV filter selected from silicone compounds having at least one benzotriazole group, wherein based on the total weight of the composition, the amount of the (a) inorganic UV filter is greater than 5% by weight.
2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the (a) inorganic UV filter is selected from titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and mixtures thereof.
3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the amount of the (a) inorganic UV filter in the composition can be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less.
4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the (b) organic UV filter is selected from silanes and polyorganosiloxanes, which comprise at least one structural unit having the formula (1): O (3-a) / 2 Si(R7) a -G(1) wherein R7 is optionally halogenated C1-C 10 alkyl, phenyl or trimethylsilyloxy; a is an integer from 0 to 3 (inclusive); and G is a monovalent group directly bonded to the silicon atom and having the structural formula (2): wherein the Y groups may be the same or different, each being a C1-C8 alkyl group, a halogen atom, or a C1-C4 alkoxy group, provided that, in the latter case, two adjacent Y groups on the same aromatic ring may together form an alkylenedioxy group, wherein the alkylene moiety has 1 or 2 carbon atoms; X is 0 or NH; Z is hydrogen or a C1-C4 alkyl group; n is an integer from 0 to 3, inclusive; m is 0 or 1; and p is an integer from 1 to 10, inclusive.
5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the (b) organic UV filter is selected from benzotriazole-substituted silicone compounds having any one of the structural formulas (5) and (6): wherein The groups R7 may be the same or different and are each a C1-C 10 alkyl group, phenyl group, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl group or trimethylsilyloxy group, and at least 80% by number of the groups R7 are methyl groups; the groups D may be the same or different, each being a group R7 or a group G; r is an integer from 0 to 50, inclusive, and s is an integer from 0 to 20, inclusive, provided that if s = 0, then at least one of the two groups D is a group G; u is an integer from 1 to 6, inclusive, and t is an integer from 0 to 10, inclusive, provided that t + u is equal to or greater than 3; and the group G has the structural formula (2): wherein the Y groups may be the same or different, each being a C1-C8 alkyl group, a halogen atom, or a C1-C4 alkoxy group, provided that, in the latter case, two adjacent Y groups on the same aromatic ring may together form an alkylenedioxy group, wherein the alkylene moiety has 1 or 2 carbon atoms; X is 0 or NH; Z is hydrogen or a C1-C4 alkyl group; n is an integer from 0 to 3, inclusive; m is 0 or 1; and p is an integer from 1 to 10, inclusive.
6. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the (b) organic UV filter is selected from benzotriazole-substituted silicone compounds having the structural formula (7): where 0 ≤ r ≤ 10; 1 ≤ s ≤ 10; and E is a divalent group:
7. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the (b) organic UV filter is cresol triazole trisiloxane having the following structural formula:
8. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the amount of the (b) organic UV filter in the composition is 1% to 20% by weight, preferably 2% to 15% by weight, and more preferably 3% to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
9. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the composition further comprises (c) at least one fatty material.
10. The composition according to claim 9, wherein the amount of the (c) fatty material in the composition is 1% to 20% by weight, preferably 3% to 15% by weight, and more preferably 5% to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
11. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the composition further comprises (d) at least one phosphate / phosphonate compound.
12. The composition according to claim 11, wherein the amount of the (d) phosphate / phosphonate compound in the composition is 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably 0.1% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
13. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein the composition is a cosmetic composition, preferably a skin cosmetic composition, and more preferably a skin care composition or a skin makeup composition.
14. A cosmetic method for a keratinous substrate such as the skin, the cosmetic method comprising applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 to the keratinous substrate.
15. Use of (b) at least one organic UV filter selected from silicone compounds having at least one benzotriazole group in a composition, wherein the composition comprises (a) at least one inorganic UV filter in an amount greater than 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, to improve the smooth texture of the composition.
Citation Information
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