Weaving method for wide yarns

Abstract

The invention discloses a wide yarn weaving method, belongs to the technical field of weaving, and provides the following scheme aiming at the problems of single reamed hole form and insufficient weft color expressive force in traditional double-warp skein weaving: firstly, dividing warps into three groups of main warps, auxiliary warps and independent skein warps; a three-piece composite doup device is designed, a front heald controls main and auxiliary warp plain interweaving, a middle heald is linked to cross warp to form a rhombic reamed hole, and a rear heald adjusts tension to realize layered opening; single-color basic wefts are alternately woven into the single shuttle path; during weaving, twill weave is adopted for the ground part, continuous reamed holes are formed in the pattern showing part through middle heald lifting and twisting, and the decorative area is combined with floating weft and twisted warp linkage. The diamond-shaped reaming array construction is realized, the stability of the reaming structure is improved, and the application value of the wide yarn in the fields of high-end clothes and craft decoration is obviously expanded.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention belongs to the technical field of weaving, and in particular relates to a wide yarn weaving method. Background Art

[0002] Traditional cantonese yarn weaving mostly uses double warp grouping (such as ground warp and twisted warp) combined with plain or simple twisted heddle structure, and forms uniform yarn holes through a single weft configuration. For example, the typical method arranges the twisted warp and ground warp in a fixed ratio, and uses two twisted heddle to control the twist opening. Although it can form a basic twisted yarn texture, it has significant defects: the twisted hole shape is single (mostly square or round), and the weft color expression is limited, and it is difficult to achieve the coordinated expression of three-dimensional twisted holes and multi-color gradient decorations in the same fabric. Especially in the field of decorative yarn fabrics, the existing technology has a low coupling degree between the twisted hole structure and the decorative pattern due to the rigid twisted heddle device and the rough weft color change mechanism. The fabric is prone to twisted hole deformation, floating weft loosening and other problems, which seriously restricts the application of cantonese yarn in high-end clothing and handicrafts.

[0003] How to break through the limitations of traditional double-warp twisted yarn weaving and achieve the diversification of twisted hole shapes while ensuring the stability of the twisted hole structure is an urgent problem to be solved. Summary of the invention

[0004] The purpose of the present invention is to provide a method for weaving wide yarn, which can synchronously form a diamond-shaped twisted hole array on the surface of the fabric through three-warp grouping, three-piece composite twisted heddle and segmented weft changing technology, giving the twisted yarn a three-dimensional and changeable texture feature, significantly improving the artistic expression and functionality of the wide yarn, so as to solve the problems raised in the above-mentioned background technology.

[0005] To achieve the above object, the present invention adopts the following technical solution: a wide yarn weaving method, comprising the following steps: Warp silk division and combination: the warp silk is divided into three groups: main warp, auxiliary warp and twisted warp. The main warp and auxiliary warp are arranged in a ratio of 1:2, and the twisted warp is an independent group. Twisted heald design: A three-piece composite twisted heald device is used, including the front heald, the middle heald and the back heald; the front heald controls the plain weaving of the main warp and the auxiliary warp, the middle heald links the twisted warp to form a diamond-shaped twisted hole structure, and the back heald adjusts the tension of the twisted warp to achieve layered opening; Weft configuration: adopt segmented weft change technology to weave single-color basic weft alternately in the same shed in the weft direction; Weaving control: The ground part adopts twill weave, the flower-showing part forms continuous twisted holes by lifting the twisted warp through the middle heddle, and the decorative area combines floating weft insertion with twisted warp to make the fabric surface present a three-dimensional twisted yarn texture.

[0006] Preferably, the twisted warp is made of strongly twisted mulberry silk, the main warp and the auxiliary warp are mulberry silk, and the tension of the three groups of warp yarns is independently adjusted.

[0007] Preferably, the twist of the strongly twisted mulberry silk ranges from 1,400 to 1,600 twists per meter, and the tension difference between the ground warp, the supplementary warp and the pattern warp is within the range of 10%-15%.

[0008] Preferably, the middle harness is an adjustable movable crossed harness, the harness eyes are arranged obliquely at 45°, and after the pattern warp passes through the harness, it intersects with the ground warp and the supplementary warp at an angle of 30°.

[0009] Preferably, the surface of the harness sheets of the middle harness is coated with a nano-aluminum oxide wear-resistant layer, the coating thickness is 50-80 nanometers, and a spiral guide groove structure is provided on the inner wall of the harness eyes. The depth of the guide groove is 0.1-0.2 millimeters, and the pitch is 1.5-2 millimeters, which is used to reduce friction and maintain a deflection angle of 45°±3° when guiding the pattern warp through the harness.

[0010] Preferably, the twill interweaving uses a 2 / 1 right twill as the basic weave, the density of the pattern holes in the pattern area is 8-12 per centimeter, and the diameter of the pattern holes is 0.3-0.5 millimeters.

[0011] Preferably, the pattern holes are soaked in vegetable tanning agent and then heat-steamed for shaping.

[0012] Preferably, the warp threads are subjected to plasma surface treatment before grouping.

[0013] Technical effects and advantages of the present invention: A Guangsha weaving method proposed by the present invention has the following advantages compared with the prior art: By adopting three warp groups (ground warp, supplementary warp, pattern warp), the present invention successfully constructs a diamond pattern hole array on the fabric surface, solves the problem of single pattern hole shape in traditional double warp twill weaving, and also realizes the coordinated improvement of the stability of the pattern hole structure and the refinement of the decorative pattern through the floating weft insertion and pattern warp linkage technology, significantly enhancing the three-dimensional texture level and artistic expressiveness of Guangsha, and expanding its application potential in the fields of high-end clothing and craft decoration. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0014] Figure 1 is a schematic structural diagram of a Guangsha weaving method of the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE EMBODIMENTS

[0015] The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below with reference to the accompanying drawings in the embodiments of the present invention. Obviously, the described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, rather than all the embodiments. The specific embodiments described herein are only used to explain the present invention, and are not used to limit the present invention. All other embodiments obtained by those of ordinary skill in the art based on the embodiments of the present invention without creative efforts shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.

[0016] The present invention provides a method for weaving wide yarn, which forms a diamond-shaped twist hole array on the surface of the fabric by three-warp grouping, thereby significantly improving the artistic expression and functionality of the wide yarn, as follows: like Figure 1 As shown, a wide yarn weaving method in this embodiment includes the following steps: Warp silk division and combination: the warp silk is divided into three groups: main warp, auxiliary warp and twisted warp. The main warp and auxiliary warp are arranged in a ratio of 1:2, and the twisted warp is an independent group. Furthermore, the twisted warp uses strong twist mulberry silk, the main warp and auxiliary warp are mulberry silk, and the tension of the three groups of warp yarns is independently adjusted. Among them, the twist range of the strong twist mulberry silk is 1400-1600 twists per meter, and the tension difference between the twisted warp and the main warp and auxiliary warp is within the range of 10%-15%. Furthermore, the warp yarn is subjected to plasma surface treatment before being combined.

[0017] The implementation steps of warp separation and combination are as follows: 1. Warp pretreatment: Plasma surface treatment is performed on the main warp and auxiliary warp: in a vacuum environment, a plasma device with a power of 300W and a frequency of 40kHz is used for treatment for 20-30 seconds to form a micron-level rough structure on the surface to enhance the bonding force between fibers.

[0018] 2. Configuration of heald device: A three-piece composite twisted heddle device is used, and the front heddle controls the plain weaving of the main warp and the auxiliary warp (heddle density is 8 strands / cm); 3. The middle heald links the warp to form a diamond-shaped helix hole: the helix warp is guided to cross the main and auxiliary warps through the adjustable movable heddle (the heddle eye is inclined at 45°), the helix hole density is 10 / cm, and the hole diameter is 0.4 mm; Monitor the warp tension of the back harness and adjust it within the range of 10%-15% to ensure uniform layer opening.

[0019] 4. Weft configuration and weaving: The weft thread adopts the segmented weft change technology: the single-color basic weft (silk thread) is woven alternately in a single shuttle; 5. Fixing of floating weft thread heads: Use biodegradable starch glue spray (0.3 g / m2) for curing to prevent unraveling; the ground part adopts 2 / 1 right twill weaving, and the flower-revealing part is formed by continuous diamond-shaped twisting holes by lifting the warp in the middle heald.

[0020] Twisted heald design: A three-piece composite twisted heald device is used, including the front heald, the middle heald and the back heald; the front heald controls the plain weaving of the main warp and the auxiliary warp, the middle heald links the twisted warp to form a diamond-shaped twisted hole structure, and the back heald adjusts the tension of the twisted warp to achieve layered opening; Furthermore, the middle harness is an adjustable movable harness, the harness eyes are arranged obliquely at 45°, and the twisted warp, after passing through the harness, intersects the main warp and the auxiliary warp at a 30° crossing angle. The surface of the harness sheet of the middle harness is coated with a nano-aluminum oxide wear-resistant layer, the coating thickness is 50 - 80 nanometers, and a spiral guide groove structure is provided on the inner wall of the harness eye. The depth of the guide groove is 0.1 - 0.2 millimeters, and the pitch is 1.5 - 2 millimeters, which is used to guide the twisted warp through the harness to reduce friction and maintain a deflection angle of 45° ± 3°.

[0021] The implementation steps of the harness design are as follows: 1. Manufacturing of the middle harness structure: Material selection: The harness sheet of the middle harness uses a high-strength aluminum alloy substrate, and the surface is coated with a nano-aluminum oxide wear-resistant layer through a magnetron sputtering process. The coating thickness is accurately controlled within the range of 50 - 80 nanometers to ensure improved wear resistance while avoiding increased brittleness.

[0022] Guide groove machining: A spiral guide groove is machined on the inner wall of the harness eye of the middle harness using laser micro-engraving technology. The depth of the guide groove is 0.1 - 0.2 millimeters, and the pitch is 1.5 - 2 millimeters. The edge of the guide groove is polished to a roughness of Ra ≤ 0.1μm to reduce the frictional resistance when the twisted warp passes through the harness.

[0023] Angle control: The harness eyes of the middle harness are arranged obliquely at 45°. During installation, the inclination angle of the harness sheet is adjusted through an angle calibrator so that the twisted warp, after passing through the harness, forms a 30° crossing angle with the main warp and the auxiliary warp, and a constant deflection angle of 45° ± 3° is maintained with the help of the guide groove structure.

[0024] 2. Dynamic adjustment mechanism: The middle harness integrates a hydraulic fine-tuning device to monitor the tension fluctuation of the twisted warp and dynamically adjust the harness sheet spacing (range ±0.5 millimeters) to ensure the consistency of the harness hole shape.

[0025] After the twisted warp passes through the harness, the synergistic effect of the spiral guide groove and the nano-coating can reduce the sliding friction coefficient of the twisted warp to 0.08 - 0.12.

[0026] 3. Adaptation of the weaving process: In the loom dressing, the middle harness is linked with the front and rear harnesses. The front harness controls the plain interweaving of the main and auxiliary warps (density 8 picks / cm), and the rear harness adjusts the tension of the twisted warp to 15 - 18N through a tension roller; The lifting frequency of the middle harness is synchronized with the loom speed, lifting the harness once per weft, and the lifting height of the twisted warp is 5 - 7 millimeters, forming a diamond-shaped harness hole (hole diameter 0.4 - 0.6 millimeters, density 10 - 12 pieces / cm).

[0027] Weft configuration: The segmented weft-changing technology is adopted, and monochromatic basic wefts are alternately woven in the same weft passage in the weft direction; Furthermore, the twill interweaving adopts 2 / 1 right twill as the basic structure, the density of the holes in the flower-revealing part is 8-12 per centimeter, the diameter of the holes is 0.3-0.5 mm, and the holes are shaped by high-temperature steaming after being soaked in vegetable tanning agent.

[0028] The implementation steps of weaving control are as follows: 1. Twill ground weaving: The ground part adopts 2 / 1 right twill weave, with a warp density of 60 strands / cm and a weft density of 40 strands / cm. The warp tension is uniformly controlled at 18-20N and the weft tension is 12-15N. Twill weaving is achieved by the front and back heddles working together to raise the heddles, with the lifting frequency synchronized with the loom speed (500rpm), forming a uniform right twill texture (twill angle 45°).

[0029] 2. Hole forming at the flower-showing part: The middle heald lifts the warp (frequency 200 times / minute) to form continuous reaming holes with a density of 8-12 holes per centimeter and a hole diameter of 0.3-0.5 mm; Hole shape control: real-time adjustment of the warp tension to 10-12N to ensure that the hole diameter error is ≤5%.

[0030] 3. Reaming hole shaping process: Soaking in vegetable tanning agent: The reaming area is immersed in a tanning agent solution containing 5%-8% tannic acid (temperature 50°C) for 20 minutes, and the pH value is controlled at 4.5-5.5; High-temperature steam setting: Use saturated steam (pressure 0.3MPa, temperature 120℃) for 10 minutes to permanently solidify the reaming structure and stabilize the shrinkage within ±1%.

[0031] In summary, the present invention successfully constructs a diamond-shaped twisted warp array on the fabric surface by adopting three-warp grouping (main warp, auxiliary warp, and twisted warp), thereby solving the problem of single twisted warp shape in traditional double-warp twisted yarn weaving, significantly enhancing the three-dimensional texture level and artistic expression of the wide yarn, and expanding its application potential in the field of high-end clothing and craft decoration.

[0032] Finally, it should be noted that the above is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention and is not intended to limit the present invention. Although the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the aforementioned embodiments, it is still possible for those skilled in the art to modify the technical solutions described in the aforementioned embodiments or to make equivalent substitutions for some of the technical features therein. Any modifications, equivalent substitutions, improvements, etc. made within the spirit and principles of the present invention should be included in the protection scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. A method for weaving Guang yarn, characterized in that, The following steps are involved: Warp silk division and combination: the warp silk is divided into three groups: main warp, auxiliary warp and twisted warp. The main warp and auxiliary warp are arranged in a ratio of 1:2, and the twisted warp is an independent group. Twisted heald design: A three-piece composite twisted heald device is used, including the front heald, the middle heald and the back heald; the front heald controls the plain weaving of the main warp and the auxiliary warp, the middle heald links the twisted warp to form a diamond-shaped twisted hole structure, and the back heald adjusts the tension of the twisted warp to achieve layered opening; Weft configuration: adopt segmented weft change technology to weave single-color basic weft alternately in the same shed in the weft direction; Weaving control: The ground part adopts twill weave, the flower-showing part forms continuous twisted holes by lifting the twisted warp through the middle heddle, and the decorative area combines floating weft insertion with twisted warp to make the fabric surface present a three-dimensional twisted yarn texture.

2. The method for weaving Guang yarn according to claim 1, characterized in that, The twisted warp is made of strongly twisted mulberry silk, the main warp and the auxiliary warp are mulberry silk, and the tension of the three groups of warp yarns is independently adjusted.

3. The method for weaving wide yarn according to claim 2, characterized in that, The twist degree of the strongly twisted mulberry silk is in the range of 1400-1600 twists per meter, and the difference in tension between the twisted warp and the main warp and the auxiliary warp is in the range of 10%-15%.

4. A method for weaving Guang yarn according to claim 1, characterized in that, The middle heddle is an adjustable movable twisted heddle, the heddle eyes are arranged obliquely at 45°, and after the twisted warp is passed through the heddle, it forms a crossing angle of 30° with the main warp and the auxiliary warp.

5. A method for weaving Guang yarn according to claim 4, characterized in that, The surface of the heald piece of the middle heald is coated with a nano-aluminum oxide wear-resistant layer with a coating thickness of 50-80 nanometers, and the inner wall of the heald eye is provided with a spiral guide groove structure with a guide groove depth of 0.1-0.2 mm and a pitch of 1.5-2 mm, which is used to reduce friction when guiding the strands to pass through the heald and maintain a deflection angle of 45°±3°.

6. A method for weaving Guang yarn according to claim 1, characterized in that, The twill interweaving adopts 2 / 1 right twill as the basic structure, the density of the twisted holes in the flower-bearing part is 8-12 per centimeter, and the diameter of the twisted holes is 0.3-0.5 mm.

7. A method for weaving Guang yarn according to claim 6, characterized in that, The reaming holes are soaked in vegetable tanning agent and then shaped by high-temperature steaming.

8. A method for weaving broad yarn according to claim 1, characterized in that, The warp yarns are subjected to plasma surface treatment before being grouped.

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