A composition for improving skin transparency and use thereof, cosmetic

Abstract

The application belongs to the technical field of cosmetic production and discloses a composition for improving skin transparency, which comprises a main extract and an auxiliary extract, the main extract is a mixture of citrus peel extract and cornus officinalis extract, the auxiliary extract is selected from reed extract and / or liquorice extract, the mass ratio of the citrus peel extract and the cornus officinalis extract in the main extract is 3-5:5-8, and the mass ratio of the main extract and the auxiliary extract is 8-13:5-8. The composition provided by the application can significantly inhibit tyrosinase through the synergistic effect of multiple action pathways, thereby realizing the whitening effect. In addition, it is found through tests that the composition has good skin color lightening capacity. In addition, the application also discloses application of the composition for improving skin transparency and a cosmetic.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This application relates to the field of cosmetic manufacturing technology, and more particularly to a composition for improving skin transparency and its application in cosmetics. Background Technology

[0002] Japanese cosmetics company KAO has announced the removal of the term "bihaku" from all its products as part of its efforts to diversify its claims about skin whitening. This year, expressions such as "brightening" and "increasing / enhancing / revealing translucency" have become increasingly prevalent in the Japanese market. The market is redefining the term "bihaku" and focusing on the overall health of the skin, rather than just skin tone. Claims such as "radiant," "glowing," and "transparent skin," made with naturally derived ingredients, will become new trends in skin whitening claims, aiming to create clear, moisturized, and luminous skin.

[0003] Chinese patent application 202411607784.4 discloses a composition with post-sun repair and whitening effects and its preparation method. The composition in this scheme includes ergothioneine complex, acetyl glucosamine, nicotinamide, sodium hyaluronate, inositol, aloe vera extract, glycerophosphate inositol choline salt, tetrahydromethylpyrimidine carboxylic acid, oat β-glucan complex, citrus peel extract complex, and a skin brightening agent.

[0004] The ergothioneine compound includes ergothioneine, pine mushroom extract, and mannitol;

[0005] The oat β-glucan complex comprises oat β-glucan, butylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol, and water;

[0006] The citrus peel extract compound includes citrus peel extract, butylene glycol, and water;

[0007] The INCI name of the skin brightening agent is arginine ferulic acid salt / 1-methylhydantoin-2-imide / Cornus officinalis extract;

[0008] Further examination of the instructions for this solution reveals that when glycerophosphate inositol choline salt, citrus peel extract compound, and skin brightening agent are combined, the composition can simultaneously enhance the effects of the composition in post-sun repair and whitening. Referring to its formula, the skin brightening agent is specifically a mixture of arginine ferulic acid salt, 1-methylhydantoin-2-imide, and Cornus officinalis extract.

[0009] It is evident that this proposal indicates that citrus peel extract has a certain contribution to post-sun skin repair and whitening, and that combining it with a brightening agent (a substance containing cornus extract) may further enhance the whitening effect of the product.

[0010] The problem this solution aims to solve is: how to provide a composition that differs from existing technologies and has a good whitening effect. Summary of the Invention

[0011] The purpose of this application is to provide a composition that is different from the prior art and has a good whitening effect. The "whitening" effect is achieved from multiple angles, namely, by improving the inhibition of melanin and improving the transparency of the skin. On the one hand, the above formula can inhibit tyrosinase to a certain extent and reduce the production of melanin. On the other hand, the combination of various plant extracts enhances the whiteness and radiance of the skin.

[0012] To achieve the above objectives, this application discloses a composition for improving skin transparency, comprising a main extract and a secondary extract, wherein the main extract is a mixture of citrus peel extract and cornus officinalis extract;

[0013] The co-extract is selected from reed extract and / or licorice extract;

[0014] In the main extract, the mass ratio of citrus peel extract to cornus extract is 3-5:5-8;

[0015] The mass ratio of the main extract to the auxiliary extract is 8-13:5-8.

[0016] Preferably, the auxiliary extract is a mixture of reed extract and licorice extract, and the mass ratio of reed extract to licorice extract is 1-3:1-4.

[0017] In addition, this application also discloses the use of the composition for improving skin transparency as described above in the preparation of cosmetics.

[0018] In addition, this application also discloses a cosmetic containing 1 to 30 wt% of a composition that improves skin transparency.

[0019] Preferably, the dosage form of the cosmetic is a patch, ointment, liquid, spray, gel, emulsion, or cream.

[0020] Preferably, the cosmetic is a gel, serum, toner, face mask, facial cleanser, lotion, perfume, makeup remover, lipstick, blush, or spray.

[0021] Preferably, the cosmetic is a serum, and the serum comprises, by mass ratio:

[0022] 5.0%–7.0% butanediol;

[0023] 3.0%–5.0% glycerol;

[0024] 2.0%–3.0% betaine;

[0025] 0.01–0.05% EDTA-2NA;

[0026] 0.06%–0.1% hydrolyzed sclerotium gum;

[0027] 0.3%–0.5% ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate / VP copolymer;

[0028] 1.0%–3.0% panthenol;

[0029] 0.05%–0.1% sodium hyaluronate;

[0030] 0.2%–0.4% phenoxyethanol;

[0031] 0.4%–0.6% of 1,2-hexanediol;

[0032] 0.5%–0.8% jojoba seed oil;

[0033] 1.0%–3.0% salicylic acid;

[0034] 0.5%–1.0% of 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid;

[0035] 0.3%–0.5% isosorbide dimethyl ether;

[0036] A composition containing 1.0% to 30.0% of ingredients that improve skin transparency;

[0037] Add to deionized water to a total mass fraction of 100%.

[0038] The beneficial effects of this application are: the citrus peel extract, which is the main extract component in this application, uses vitamin C as the core and inhibits the melanin oxidation process by reducing the melanin intermediate product dopa.

[0039] The depigmenting agents and cornus flavonoids in cornus extract can significantly inhibit tyrosinase activity, and the inhibitory effect increases with increasing concentration, thereby reducing melanin production.

[0040] In addition, reed extract, as a co-extractant, directly inhibits tyrosinase activity (dominated by flavonoids);

[0041] Components such as glycyrrhizic acid and glycyrrhizin in licorice extract can directly bind to tyrosinase, inhibit its catalytic activity, and reduce the production of melanin precursors (such as dopa). At the same time, flavonoids in licorice extract can block oxidative stress-induced tyrosinase activation by scavenging free radicals. When the above plant extracts are used in combination, they can further inhibit tyrosinase through the synergistic effect of multiple pathways, thereby reducing the production and deposition of melanin in the skin. Detailed Implementation

[0042] The present invention will now be clearly and completely described in conjunction with embodiments thereof. It should be noted that, unless specific conditions are specified in the embodiments, conventional conditions or conditions recommended by the manufacturer shall apply. Reagents or instruments whose manufacturers are not specified are all commercially available conventional products.

[0043] Before demonstrating the embodiments, the preparation and acquisition methods of the raw materials involved in the embodiments shall be explained as follows:

[0044] The citrus peel extract was purchased from Guangzhou Chaoxi Biotechnology Co., Ltd., with an effective substance content of approximately 73%.

[0045] The Cornus officinalis extract was purchased from Xi'an Shangcheng Biotechnology Co., Ltd., with an effective substance content of approximately 10%.

[0046] The reed extract was purchased from Shanxi Jixianmei Biotechnology Co., Ltd., and the content of active ingredients is about 10%.

[0047] The licorice extract was purchased from Natural (Guangzhou) New Materials Research and Development Co., Ltd., with an effective substance content of approximately 10%.

[0048] A composition for improving skin transparency is prepared by mixing and dispersing citrus peel extract and cornus officinalis extract as the main extracts, and licorice extract as the auxiliary extract, to obtain the composition for improving skin transparency. (It should be noted that, unless otherwise specified, the preparation method of the compositions in the following examples and comparative examples all adopts this method, and the specific amount of each plant extract added is described in the specific description of each example and comparative example.)

[0049] Part 1: Preparation of the Composition and Whitening Efficacy Testing

[0050] Examples 1-8

[0051] A composition for improving skin transparency, the raw materials and their relative qualities are shown in Table 1:

[0052] Table 1

[0053] Group Citrus peel extract Cornus officinalis extract Reed extract Licorice extract Example 1 3 8 / 5 Example 2 4 6 / 6 Example 3 5 5 / 8 Example 4 3 8 / 6 Example 5 5 5 / 6 Example 6 4 6 6 / Example 7 4 6 3 3 Example 8 4 6 2.6 3.2

[0054] Comparative Examples 1-8

[0055] A composition, the raw materials and their mass ratios are shown in Table 2:

[0056] Table 2

[0057]

[0058]

[0059] Performance testing:

[0060] 1. Tyrosinase inhibition rate test

[0061] 1.1 Test reagents

[0062] Deionized water, sodium phosphate buffer (PBS, pH = 6.8, 0.1 mol / L), L-tyrosine solution (7.5 mmol / L), test solution (the compositions prepared in the examples and comparative examples were diluted with water to a mass fraction of 15%), and tyrosinase solution (tyrosinase was prepared into a 100 U / mL solution using sodium phosphate buffer).

[0063] 1.2 Test Methods

[0064] According to Table 3, four groups of sample solutions were prepared using L-tyrosine solution as the reaction substrate. PBS buffer, L-tyrosine solution and samples with different ratios were added respectively. Three parallel samples were prepared for each sample. After incubating in a 37°C water bath for 10 min, tyrosinase solution was added, mixed well, and then incubated in a 37°C water bath for 10 min. The samples were then quickly transferred to a cuvette and the absorbance value at 475 nm was measured.

[0065] Table 3

[0066] sample PBS L-tyrosine solution Tyrosinase solution Total amount added Blank group / 1.4mL 0.8mL 0.4mL 2.6mL Blank control group / 1.8mL 0.8mL / 2.6mL Sample group 0.8mL 0.6mL 0.8mL 0.4mL 2.6mL Sample control group 0.8mL 1.0mL 0.8mL / 2.6mL

[0067] The inhibition rate of the sample on tyrosinase activity was calculated according to Equation 1:

[0068]

[0069] In Formula 1, A is the absorbance value of the sample group, A0 is the absorbance value of the sample control group, B is the absorbance value of the blank group, and B0 is the absorbance value of the blank control group.

[0070] The calculated results of tyrosinase inhibition rate are shown in Table 4:

[0071] Table 4

[0072] Group Tyrosinase inhibition rate / % Group Tyrosinase inhibition rate / % Example 1 61.68 Comparative Example 1 57.25 Example 2 63.04 Comparative Example 2 54.32 Example 3 62.59 Comparative Example 3 55.81 Example 4 62.31 Comparative Example 4 48.79 Example 5 61.02 Comparative Example 5 46.14 Example 6 59.87 Comparative Example 6 45.01 Example 7 67.83 Comparative Example 7 51.45 Example 8 66.20 Comparative Example 8 52.97

[0073] Results analysis:

[0074] 1. As can be seen from Examples 1-6, when the amount of the main extract and the amount or type of the co-extract are slightly changed, the tyrosinase inhibition rate of Examples 1-6 shows a certain degree of fluctuation, but even Example 6, which has the worst tyrosinase inhibition ability, is still at a relatively high level.

[0075] Further observation of Examples 7-8 reveals that when a mixture of reed extract and licorice extract was used in Examples 7-8, the tyrosinase inhibition rate of Examples 7-8 showed a more significant upward trend. However, observation of Examples 2, 6, and 7 shows that the tyrosinase inhibition rate of Example 7 should theoretically be between that of Examples 2 and 6, but Example 7 significantly exceeded the tyrosinase inhibition capacity of either Example 2 or 6. This indicates that a synergistic effect occurred between the two co-extractants, resulting in the superior tyrosinase inhibition capacity of Example 7.

[0076] 2. As can be seen from Example 7 and Comparative Examples 1 and 4, the tyrosinase inhibition ability of Comparative Examples 1 and 4 is significantly less than that of Example 7. Theoretically, the tyrosinase inhibition ability of Example 7 should be between that of Comparative Examples 1 and 4, but the tyrosinase inhibition ability of Example 7 is higher than that of either Comparative Examples 1 or 4. This shows that a synergistic effect also occurred between the main extract and the co-extract, which resulted in Example 7 having a good tyrosinase inhibition ability.

[0077] 3. Further observation of Comparative Examples 2-3 shows that the citrus peel extract and cornelian cherry extract, which are the main extract components, were omitted in Comparative Examples 2-3 respectively. The tyrosinase inhibition capacity of the two is also much lower than that of Example 7, and even lower than that of Comparative Example 1 without the addition of auxiliary extracts. It can be seen that when one of the two main extracts is missing, the synergistic effect between the main extract and the auxiliary extract is extremely weak.

[0078] 4. As can be seen from Comparative Examples 5-8, when the co-extractor is replaced with a substance with a certain tyrosinase inhibitory ability, the improvement in tyrosinase inhibitory ability of Comparative Examples 7-8 is not significant compared with that of Comparative Examples 5-6, and is lower than that of Comparative Example 1 (without co-extractor added). It can be seen that not all substances with tyrosinase inhibitory ability can produce a good synergistic effect with the main extract when replacing the co-extractor in this scheme.

[0079] Part Two: Preparation of Cosmetics and Brightening Efficacy Testing

[0080] Application Example 1

[0081] A whitening and brightening cosmetic product, the preparation method includes the following steps:

[0082] Step 1: Add deionized water, butylene glycol, glycerin, betaine, EDTA-2NA, hydrolyzed sclerotium gum, ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate / VP copolymer, panthenol, and sodium hyaluronate to an emulsifying pot. Heat to 82±2℃, homogenize for 2 min, and keep warm for more than 20 min until completely dissolved.

[0083] Step 2: Cool the emulsifying pot to about 45°C, and add the composition obtained in Example 1, phenoxyethanol, 1,2-hexanediol, jojoba seed oil, and isosorbide dimethyl ether.

[0084] Step 3: Dissolve deionized water, salicylic acid, and 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid separately until transparent, then add them to the emulsification pot and stir until well mixed;

[0085] In addition, the specific amounts of each ingredient added to cosmetics, by mass fraction, are as follows:

[0086] 6.0% Butanediol;

[0087] 4.0% glycerin;

[0088] 2.5% betaine;

[0089] 0.03% EDTA-2NA;

[0090] 0.08% hydrolyzed sclerotium gum;

[0091] 0.4% ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate / VP copolymer;

[0092] 2.0% panthenol;

[0093] 0.08% sodium hyaluronate;

[0094] 0.3% phenoxyethanol;

[0095] 0.5% 1,2-hexanediol;

[0096] 0.6% jojoba seed oil;

[0097] 2.0% salicylic acid;

[0098] 0.8% 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid;

[0099] 0.4% isosorbide dimethyl ether;

[0100] A composition containing 15.0% of ingredients that improve skin transparency;

[0101] Add to deionized water to a total mass fraction of 100%.

[0102] Application Example 2

[0103] It is basically the same as Application Example 1, except that the composition prepared in Example 7 is used instead of the composition prepared in Example 1.

[0104] 2. Brightening effect test

[0105] "Skin transparency" refers to the ratio of transmitted light to incident light at the skin's surface. After incident light is scattered at the skin's surface, some is scattered, while the remainder is transmitted into the skin, where it is reflected again. As the amount of light reflected from within the skin (diffuse reflection) increases, skin transparency increases. Therefore, testing skin brightness can reflect skin transparency to some extent.

[0106] 2.1 Experimental Design

[0107] Twenty healthy women aged 25-50 were selected and randomly divided into two groups of 10 each. During the test, the participants applied the prepared cosmetic to their faces twice a day, morning and evening (the left cheek was treated with water and the right cheek with the sample) for four weeks.

[0108] 2.2 Testing Instruments

[0109] CK Skin Analyzer (Germany), VISIA Full Face Analyzer (Germany).

[0110] 2.3 Performance Indicators

[0111] The change in facial brightness (L*) after 4 weeks of use was measured using a VISA sensor compared to before use, and the difference was calculated to obtain the ΔL* value. A positive ΔL* value indicates an increase in facial brightness (L* value), representing an improvement in facial brightness, while a negative ΔL* value indicates a decrease in facial brightness (L* value). The specific test results are shown in Table 5.

[0112] Table 5

[0113] Group Right cheek △L* value Left cheek △L* value Group Right cheek △L* value Left cheek △L* value Application Example 1 +9.65 -0.23 Application Example 2 +12.25 +0.36

[0114] As can be seen from the data in Table 5, cosmetics prepared using the compositions obtained in Examples 1 and 7 all have good skin-brightening abilities.

[0115] The embodiments presented herein are merely selected implementations based on combinations of all possible embodiments. The appended claims should not be limited to the embodiments described herein. Some numerical ranges used in the claims include sub-ranges within them, and variations within these ranges should also be covered by the appended claims.

Claims

1. A cosmetic product, characterized in that, The cosmetic is a serum, which, by mass fraction, comprises: 5.0%–7.0% butanediol; 3.0%–5.0% glycerol; 2.0%–3.0% betaine; 0.01–0.05% EDTA-2NA; 0.06%–0.1% hydrolyzed sclerotium gum; 0.3%–0.5% ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate / VP copolymer; 1.0%–3.0% panthenol; 0.05%–0.1% sodium hyaluronate; 0.2%–0.4% phenoxyethanol; 0.4%–0.6% of 1,2-hexanediol; 0.5%–0.8% jojoba seed oil; 1.0%–3.0% salicylic acid; 0.5%–1.0% of 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid; 0.3%–0.5% isosorbide dimethyl ether; A composition containing 1.0% to 30.0% of ingredients that improve skin transparency; Add deionized water to a total mass fraction of 100%; The composition for improving skin transparency includes a main extract and a secondary extract, wherein the main extract is a mixture of citrus peel extract and cornus officinalis extract; The co-extract is selected from reed extract and / or licorice extract; In the main extract, the mass ratio of citrus peel extract to cornus extract is 3-5:5-8; The mass ratio of the main extract to the auxiliary extract is 8-13:5-8.

2. The cosmetic product according to claim 1, characterized in that, The auxiliary extract is a mixture of reed extract and licorice extract, and the mass ratio of reed extract to licorice extract is 1-3:1-4.

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