Preparation method of permeation composition and application of permeation composition in preparation of cosmetics

Abstract

The invention discloses a preparation method of an osmotic composition and application of the osmotic composition in preparation of cosmetics. The preparation method comprises the following steps: mixing acetylchitosamine and ursolic acid, and carrying out ball milling to obtain a mixture; and heating the mixture at 60-65 DEG C, adding water, performing ultrasonic treatment, centrifuging, filtering, collecting filtrate, and performing vacuum drying to obtain the permeation composition. The permeation composition disclosed by the invention has a synergistic effect in the aspects of improving permeation performance, whitening, resisting oxidation, resisting aging and the like, and the solubility of ursolic acid is greatly improved.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and in particular relates to a preparation method of a permeation composition and application of the same in the preparation of cosmetics. Background Art

[0002] Ursolic acid is a triterpenoid compound with multiple biological activities, such as antioxidant scavenging free radicals to protect cells from oxidative damage; inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase and reducing the production of melanin; increasing the content of ceramide in epidermal keratinocytes and collagen in epidermal fibroblasts to improve skin barrier function; stimulating collagen production and increasing skin elasticity.

[0003] However, the presence of numerous non-polar groups in its molecular structure results in poor water solubility, resulting in low permeability and bioavailability. This characteristic makes ursolic acid difficult to incorporate directly into cosmetic formulations, and it faces numerous obstacles during transdermal delivery and absorption, significantly limiting its widespread application and effectiveness in cosmetics.

[0004] Therefore, it is extremely urgent to develop a technical solution that can effectively utilize ursolic acid. Summary of the Invention

[0005] The purpose of this section is to summarize some aspects of embodiments of the present invention and to briefly introduce some preferred embodiments.

[0006] As one aspect of the present invention, the present invention provides a method for preparing an osmotic composition, comprising the following steps:

[0007] Acetyl glucosamine and ursolic acid are mixed and ball-milled to obtain a mixture; the mixture is heated at 60-65° C., subjected to ultrasonic treatment by adding water, centrifuged, filtered to collect the filtrate, and vacuum-dried to obtain an osmotic composition.

[0008] As a preferred solution of the method for preparing the penetration composition of the present invention, the molar ratio of acetyl glucosamine to ursolic acid is 1:2-3.

[0009] As a preferred solution of the method for preparing the penetrating composition of the present invention, the ball milling process has a rotation speed of 65 to 85 rpm and a time of 2 to 4 hours.

[0010] As a preferred embodiment of the method for preparing the penetration composition of the present invention, the heating time is 12 to 24 hours.

[0011] As a preferred embodiment of the method for preparing the osmotic composition of the present invention, in the ultrasonic treatment with water, the mass ratio of the mixture to water is 1:3-4, the ultrasonic power is 2000-3000W, and the ultrasonic time is 10-20min.

[0012] As a preferred embodiment of the method for preparing the osmotic composition of the present invention, the centrifugation is carried out at 2000-3000 r / s for 10-20 min.

[0013] As a preferred solution of the method for preparing the osmotic composition of the present invention: the filtration membrane has a pore size of 50 mm.

[0014] The present invention also provides the use of the permeation composition prepared by the preparation method of the permeation composition in the preparation of cosmetics, wherein the cosmetics include facial masks, essences, lotions or creams with whitening or anti-aging effects.

[0015] Beneficial effects of the present invention: Acetyl glucosamine (C8H15NO6) exhibits excellent biological activity in many aspects, such as anti-oxidation, whitening, improving skin barrier function and enhancing skin elasticity. Acetyl glucosamine contains an amino group (-NH2), which has the ability to accept protons (H + ) ability, thereby exhibiting alkaline properties. When the amino group comes into contact with the acid, the lone pair of electrons carried by the nitrogen atom can form non-covalent bonds with the protons in the acid, such as hydrogen bonds and van der Waals forces. It is particularly worth mentioning that it can assemble with ursolic acid by virtue of these non-covalent interactions, thereby forming a unique composition. The penetration composition of the present invention has a synergistic effect in improving skin permeability and whitening, anti-oxidation and anti-aging, and greatly improves the solubility of ursolic acid. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0016] In order to more clearly illustrate the technical solutions of the embodiments of the present invention, the following briefly introduces the drawings required for describing the embodiments, wherein:

[0017] Figure 1 The molecular mechanism diagram for the generation of hydrogen bonds in Example 1 is shown in FIG.

[0018] Figure 2 This is the test result of the unit active ingredient content of ursolic acid.

[0019] Figure 3 is the DPPH clearance rate.

[0020] Figure 4 is the change value of skin elasticity. In the figure, "ns" means no significant difference, "*" means significant difference, 0.01 <P<0.05;″**″,0.001<P<0.01;″***″,P<0.001。

[0021] Figure 5is the skin wrinkle area. In the figure, "ns" means no significant difference, "*" means significant difference, 0.01 <P<0.05;″**″,0.001<P<0.01;″***″,P<0.001。

[0022] Figure 6 This is a facial image of a subject who used the test sample for 4 consecutive weeks.

[0023] Figure 7 It is the elasticity test value of acetyl glucosamine.

[0024] Figure 8 It is a chromatogram of the active ingredient content per unit area in each part. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0025] In order to make the above-mentioned objects, features and advantages of the present invention more obvious and easy to understand, the specific implementation methods of the present invention are described in detail below in conjunction with specific embodiments.

[0026] Example 1:

[0027] The skin-penetrating composition of the present invention comprises ursolic acid and acetyl glucosamine in a molar ratio of 1:2.5.

[0028] The preparation method of the osmotic composition is as follows:

[0029] Step 1, placing acetyl glucosamine and ursolic acid in a ball mill at a molar ratio of 1:2.5, and grinding at 75 rpm for 3 hours to obtain a mixture;

[0030] Step 2: Transfer the ground mixture into a large test tube and place it in a thermostat at 60°C for 24 hours. Then, add water at a mass ratio of 1:3 and place it in an ultrasonic oven at 2000W for 4 hours.

[0031] Step 3: centrifuge the product obtained in step 2 at 3000 r / s for 10 minutes, filter, and vacuum dry the obtained filtrate to obtain an osmotic composition.

[0032] Experimental results: The yield of the resulting penetrating composition was 95%, and the solubility of ursolic acid in water reached 20%. Its high-low temperature stability was tested in a thermostat that cycled between -15°C and 48°C. The results showed no precipitation at low temperatures, no discoloration at high temperatures, and no significant changes after one month of cycling. Adding the penetrating composition to an essence-containing lotion did not significantly reduce viscosity.

[0033] Transdermal experiment:

[0034] Principle of Transdermal Testing: Transdermal absorption refers to the process by which a substance penetrates and is absorbed into the body through the skin. The Franz diffusion cell method is currently the most commonly used in vitro transdermal absorption testing method. Pig skin is used as a carrier, fixed between the donor and receiver chambers of a Franz diffusion cell. The cell is then mounted in a transdermal absorption diffusion instrument. Different test samples are then added to the skin surface within the chambers for transdermal testing. High-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) is used to determine the transdermal absorption of the active ingredients in the pig skin extract.

[0035] Experimental materials: Bama mini pig skin.

[0036] Reagents: instant premixed granules - PBS phosphate buffer instant granules (pH 7.4), ethanol, methanol (HPLC grade), ultrapure water. Instrument: Franz diffusion cell, TK-12D transdermal diffusion tester. Liquid chromatography conditions: mobile phase: phase A is acetonitrile, phase B is ultrapure water. Detection conditions: Acclaim120 / Thermo scientific C18 (5μm4.6×250mm) chromatographic column, column temperature 25°C, injection volume 20μL, peak detected at 280nm. Mobile phase elution conditions: methanol (A): 0.03mM phosphate buffer (B) = 85:15, flow rate 1mL / min, elution 20min. Calculate the amount of active substance per unit area of each part in μg / cm 2 express.

[0037]

[0038] Transdermal results: The ursolic acid in the active epidermis and dermis of pigskin was extracted and tested, and the amount of active substance per unit area of each part was calculated. The results are as follows: Figure 2 and Figure 8 As shown in the figure, the content of ursolic acid active ingredients in the penetrating composition of ursolic acid and acetyl glucosamine in the vital epidermis is lower than that of ursolic acid alone. However, in the dermis, the content of ursolic acid active ingredients in the penetrating composition of ursolic acid and acetyl glucosamine is higher than that of ursolic acid alone. This indicates that the penetrating composition obtained after bonding with acetyl glucosamine promotes the penetration of ursolic acid into the dermis.

[0039] Table 1 shows the active ingredient content per unit area of each part

[0040]

[0041]

[0042] DPPH antioxidant capacity determination:

[0043] Weigh DPPH powder and dissolve it in methanol to prepare a DPPH solution with a final concentration of 150 μg / mL. Weigh VC powder and dilute it with methanol to 100, 80, 60, 40, 20, and 10 μg / mL. Dilute the sample solution with methanol to 50, 40, 30, 20, 10, 5, 2.5, and 0.5 mg / mL. Sample group (sample: DPPH solution = 1:3); VC group (sample: DPPH solution = 1:3); blank group (sample: DPPH solution = 1:3). Perform three replicate wells for each sample. Incubate at 37°C in the dark for 30 min. Measure absorbance at 519 nm. Calculate DPPH scavenging efficiency using the formula: (A blank - A sample) / A blank × 100%.

[0044] The experimental results are as follows Figure 3 Example 1 exhibited significant antioxidant activity, particularly at a concentration of 10 mg / mL, where its DPPH scavenging efficiency reached approximately 100%. This means that at a sample concentration of 10 mg / mL, the permeation composition of Example 1 was able to efficiently scavenge DPPH free radicals, demonstrating excellent antioxidant properties.

[0045] Human anti-aging test: 32 volunteers (with 2 wrinkles at the corners of the eyes) were screened to evaluate the effectiveness of the test product on facial elasticity and anti-wrinkle. Test environment temperature: 20±1°C, humidity: 50±10% RH. Test instruments: Skin elasticity tester MPA580 (courage&Khazaka, Germany), facial image analyzer VisiaCR (Canfield, USA). Test sample: Prepare the lotion according to the formula in Table 2 and apply it to the face twice a day, morning and evening. The experimental results are as follows: Figure 4 、 Figure 5 、 Figure 6 As shown: Skin elasticity and firmness are significantly improved, and wrinkle area is significantly reduced.

[0046] Table 2 Anti-aging lotion formula

[0047]

[0048]

[0049] Comparative Example 1:

[0050] The molar ratio of raw materials is: ursolic acid: acetyl glucosamine = 1:1

[0051] The preparation method of the osmotic composition was the same as that of Example 1. As a result, a large amount of insoluble matter was found during filtration in step 3. The yield was only 60%.

[0052] Since ursolic acid is not easily soluble in water, the hydrogen bond between ursolic acid and acetyl glucosamine in Example 1 promotes the dissolution of ursolic acid. When the amount of acetyl glucosamine is small, it cannot completely form hydrogen bonds with ursolic acid, and ursolic acid is relatively excessive, thus producing a large amount of insoluble matter and reducing the yield.

[0053] Comparative Example 2:

[0054] The molar ratio of raw materials is: ursolic acid: acetyl glucosamine = 1:5

[0055] The preparation method of the osmotic composition was the same as in Example 1. The yield was 81.5%.

[0056] Comparative Example 3:

[0057] Acetamide chitosan was used to replace raw material No. 5 according to the formula in Table 2 to prepare an anti-aging lotion, and the human anti-aging elasticity test was carried out using the same method as in Example 1. Figure 7 This indicates that acetyl glucosamine alone has no significant effect on skin elasticity.

[0058] Comparative Example 4:

[0059] The molar ratio of raw materials is: ursolic acid: acetyl glucosamine = 1:2.5

[0060] The difference from Example 1 is that step 2 does not involve heating at 60°C, but rather ultrasonication at room temperature for 4 hours. All other conditions are the same as in Example 1, and the yield is only 33%. The experimental results show that grinding and ultrasonic mixing alone are not likely to produce non-covalent bonds between ursolic acid and acetyl glucosamine.

[0061] Acetyl glucosamine (C8H 15 NO6) has shown excellent biological activity in many aspects such as anti-oxidation, whitening, improving skin barrier function and enhancing skin elasticity. Acetyl glucosamine contains an amino group (-NH2) that has the ability to accept protons (H + ) ability, thus exhibiting alkaline properties. When amino groups come into contact with acids, the lone pair of electrons carried by the nitrogen atom can form non-covalent bonds with the protons in the acid, such as hydrogen bonds and van der Waals forces. It is particularly noteworthy that it can assemble with ursolic acid through these non-covalent interactions, thus forming a unique combination. This combination has a synergistic effect in improving penetration and whitening, anti-oxidation, and anti-aging.

[0062] It should be noted that the above embodiments are only used to illustrate the technical solutions of the present invention and are not intended to limit the present invention. Although the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the preferred embodiments, those skilled in the art should understand that the technical solutions of the present invention may be modified or replaced by equivalents without departing from the spirit and scope of the technical solutions of the present invention, which should all be included in the scope of the claims of the present invention.

Claims

1. A method for preparing an osmotic composition, characterized in that: The following steps are included: Acetyl glucosamine and ursolic acid are mixed and ball-milled to obtain a mixture; the mixture is heated at 60-65° C., subjected to ultrasonic treatment by adding water, centrifuged, filtered to collect the filtrate, and vacuum-dried to obtain an osmotic composition.

2. The method for preparing the osmotic composition according to claim 1, wherein: The molar ratio of acetyl glucosamine to ursolic acid is 1:2-3.

3. The method for preparing the osmotic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein: The ball milling process has a rotation speed of 65 to 85 rpm and a time of 2 to 4 hours.

4. The method for preparing the osmotic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein: The heating time is 12 to 24 hours.

5. The method for preparing the osmotic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein: In the water-adding ultrasonic treatment, the mass ratio of the mixture to water is 1:3-4, the ultrasonic power is 2000-3000W, and the ultrasonic time is 10-20 minutes.

6. The method for preparing the osmotic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein: The centrifugation is carried out at 2000-3000 r / s for 10-20 min.

7. The method for preparing the osmotic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein: The filtration membrane has a pore size of 50 mm.

8. The osmotic composition prepared by the method for preparing the osmotic composition according to claim 1.

9. Use of the penetrating composition prepared by the method for preparing the penetrating composition according to claim 1 in the preparation of cosmetics.

10. The use according to claim 9, characterized in that: The cosmetics include facial masks, essences, lotions or creams with whitening or anti-aging effects.

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