A brightening, anti-glycation, soothing composition and uses thereof

Abstract

This invention relates to a brightening, anti-glycation, and soothing composition and its application. The composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.9-9 parts of *Dalbergia odorifera* bark extract, 0.2-5 parts of *Tricholoma matsutake* extract, 0.5-2 parts of *Inula japonica* flower extract, and 0.5-5 parts of *Dunaliella salina* extract. This composition exhibits excellent anti-glycation and antioxidant effects, improving dullness and brightening the skin. Simultaneously, it forms an anti-inflammatory and repairing system to soothe the skin, achieving synergistic effects and overcoming the limitations of single-ingredient efficacy, thus comprehensively achieving brightening, anti-glycation, and soothing skincare benefits.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, specifically to a brightening, anti-glycation, and soothing composition and its application. Background Technology

[0002] With the steady progress of the social economy and the continuous improvement of people's quality of life, skin health and beauty have become topics of great public interest. Among them, the need to delay skin aging and improve skin condition is becoming increasingly urgent and has become one of the key demands in the skincare field.

[0003] Skin glycation is also a significant factor in accelerating skin aging. In the absence of enzymes, proteins and sugars in the skin undergo a slow, non-enzymatic reaction, producing advanced glycation end products (AGEs). These products irreversibly damage the normal structure of collagen and elastin, causing the skin to lose its resilience and elasticity, resulting in problems such as dull skin tone, deeper wrinkles, and rough skin texture, further exacerbating signs of aging.

[0004] To meet the public's demand for delaying skin aging, current anti-aging products in the skincare market mostly use peptides and collagen as their core active ingredients. However, these ingredients have significant shortcomings: on the one hand, their transportation and storage conditions are extremely demanding, and they are sensitive to environmental factors such as temperature and humidity, increasing the cost and difficulty of product production and distribution; on the other hand, the raw material costs of these ingredients are high, resulting in relatively high prices for related anti-aging products, making it difficult to reach a wider consumer base and limiting their promotion and application.

[0005] Compared to the aforementioned ingredients, natural plant extracts, with their advantages of wide availability, moderate raw material costs, high safety, and diverse bioactivities, are gradually becoming a research hotspot and key development direction in the anti-aging skincare field. Many natural plant extracts are rich in polyphenols, flavonoids, polysaccharides, and other active ingredients. These ingredients possess excellent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and moisturizing effects, effectively neutralizing excess oxygen free radicals in the skin and reducing oxidative damage. Simultaneously, they can inhibit skin glycation reactions, reduce the formation and accumulation of advanced glycation end products (AGEs), alleviate pigmentation, and improve dull skin tone, thus delaying the skin aging process from multiple perspectives. However, the application of natural plant extracts in the field of anti-aging skincare still has significant shortcomings: On the one hand, the effects of a single plant extract are relatively limited, often only targeting a specific stage of skin aging, making it difficult to simultaneously meet the three core needs of anti-glycation, brightening, and soothing. It cannot comprehensively address complex aging-related issues such as dullness and roughness caused by glycation, as well as sensitivity and redness caused by external stimuli. On the other hand, the active ingredients in natural plants generally suffer from poor solubility, low skin permeability, and insufficient absorption by the human body, making it difficult to fully realize their efficacy and achieve the expected anti-aging, brightening, and soothing effects, thus limiting their application in high-end anti-aging skincare products. Summary of the Invention

[0006] The purpose of this invention is to overcome the shortcomings of the prior art and provide a brightening, anti-glycation, and soothing composition, its preparation method, and its application.

[0007] To achieve the above objectives, the technical solution adopted by the present invention is as follows:

[0008] In a first aspect, the present invention provides a brightening, anti-glycation, and soothing composition comprising the following components in parts by weight:

[0009] 0.9-9 parts of Dalbergia odorifera bark extract;

[0010] 0.2-5 parts of matsutake mushroom extract;

[0011] 0.5-2 parts of Eurasian Inula flower extract;

[0012] 0.5-5 parts of Dunaliella salina extract.

[0013] The components in the composition of the present invention function as follows:

[0014] The bark extract of the rosewood tree is rich in active ingredients such as flavonoids and polyphenols. It can inhibit non-enzymatic glycation reactions in the skin, reduce the generation and accumulation of AGEs, maintain skin elasticity, and alleviate problems such as dull skin tone and deepening wrinkles caused by glycation. It can also inhibit tyrosinase activity and reduce melanin production, thus achieving a brightening effect.

[0015] Matsutake mushroom extract contains polysaccharides, amino acids, and various vitamins. It can directly inhibit tyrosinase activity, reduce melanin synthesis and transport, promote stratum corneum metabolism, and improve uneven skin tone. Moreover, it has good antioxidant effects, reduces oxidative damage, and indirectly inhibits glycation reactions. Amino acids replenish skin nutrition, enhance barrier function, and improve soothing effects.

[0016] Eurasian Inula flower extract contains active ingredients such as flavonoids and volatile oils, which can inhibit the expression of inflammatory factors, relieve skin discomfort, repair the skin barrier, reduce the damage of inflammation to collagen, play an auxiliary role in anti-glycation, and help improve dull skin tone by inhibiting melanin synthesis.

[0017] Dunaliella salina extract is rich in active ingredients such as algal polysaccharides, minerals, and unsaturated fatty acids. This extract can inhibit the cross-linking reaction of advanced glycation end products (AGEs), reducing their damage to skin collagen and elastin. The algal polysaccharides and unsaturated fatty acids possess excellent moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, and repairing effects, helping to repair damaged skin barriers and relieving redness. Furthermore, Dunaliella salina extract can scavenge free radicals in the skin, reducing dullness caused by oxidative damage.

[0018] Preferably, the brightening, anti-glycation, and soothing composition comprises the following components in parts by weight:

[0019] 2-5 parts of Dalbergia odorifera bark extract;

[0020] 0.8-2 parts of matsutake mushroom extract;

[0021] 0.2-1 part of Eurasian Inula flower extract;

[0022] Dunaliella salina extract 0.2-1 part.

[0023] More preferably, the brightening, anti-glycation, and soothing composition comprises the following components in parts by weight:

[0024] Three parts of palm bark extract;

[0025] 1.5 parts of matsutake mushroom extract;

[0026] 0.6 parts of Eurasian Inula flower extract;

[0027] 0.4 parts of Dunaliella salina extract.

[0028] Secondly, the present invention provides the use of the composition of the first aspect in the preparation of skin care products having brightening, anti-glycation and soothing effects.

[0029] Preferably, the dosage form of the skin care product is any one of face cream, lotion, serum, or face mask.

[0030] Thirdly, the present invention provides a serum with brightening, anti-glycation and soothing effects, the serum comprising the brightening, anti-glycation and soothing composition described in the first aspect, wherein the amount of the composition added to the serum is 0.1-5 wt%.

[0031] Preferably, the components of the serum further include thickeners, moisturizers, preservatives, pH adjusters, and solvents.

[0032] Preferably, the thickener is at least one of carbomer, acrylate / C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosspolymer, and ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate / VP copolymer.

[0033] Preferably, the moisturizer is at least one selected from glycerin, hyaluronic acid, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, and panthenol.

[0034] Preferably, the preservative is at least one selected from p-hydroxyacetophenone, 1,2-hexanediol, and 1,2-pentanediol.

[0035] Preferably, the pH adjuster is at least one selected from arginine, citric acid, sodium citrate, tromethamine, and disodium EDTA.

[0036] Preferably, the solvent is deionized water.

[0037] Fourthly, the present invention provides a method for preparing the essence described in the third aspect, comprising the following steps:

[0038] S1. Add the thickener and humectant to the solvent and stir until well mixed to obtain a mixture;

[0039] S2. Add the brightening, anti-glycation, and soothing ingredients, preservatives, and pH adjuster to the mixture and mix well to obtain the serum.

[0040] Compared with the prior art, the beneficial effects of the present invention are as follows:

[0041] The composition of this invention uses Dalbergia odorifera bark extract, Tricholoma matsutake mushroom extract, Inula japonica flower extract, and Dunaliella salina extract as core components. It has good anti-glycation and antioxidant effects, can improve dullness and brighten the skin, and at the same time form an anti-inflammatory repair system to soothe the skin. The complementary effects overcome the limitations of single-ingredient efficacy and can achieve comprehensive skin care effects of brightening, anti-glycation and soothing. Detailed Implementation

[0042] To better illustrate the purpose, technical solution, and advantages of the present invention, the present invention will be further described below in conjunction with specific embodiments.

[0043] The raw materials used in the following examples and comparative examples are from the following sources:

[0044] Dalbergia odorifera bark extract: manufactured by Zhuhai Bairui Pharmaceutical Technology Co., Ltd., product name BeriCos®PTE-Nano Pterostilbene;

[0045] Matsutake mushroom extract: The manufacturer is Beijing Dongfang Miaosen Biotechnology Co., Ltd., and the product name is Matsutake mushroom extract.

[0046] Eurasian Inula flower extract: manufactured by Shanghai Jiakai Biotechnology Co., Ltd., trade name Anlysin IB;

[0047] Dunaliella salina extract: manufactured by Guangzhou Zhaoheng Trade Development Co., Ltd., trade name DUNALINA.

[0048] Unless otherwise specified, all other materials, reagents, etc. used in the examples and comparative examples are commercially available.

[0049] Examples 1-6 and Comparative Examples 1-4

[0050] The components of the brightening, anti-glycation, and soothing compositions of Examples 1-6 and Comparative Examples 1-4 are shown in Table 1.

[0051] The preparation methods of the compositions in Examples 1-6 and Comparative Examples 1-4 are as follows:

[0052] According to the mass ratio in Table 1, accurately weigh each raw material, place the weighed raw materials in a mixer and mix them evenly to obtain each group of brightening, anti-glycation and soothing compositions.

[0053] Table 1 Formulation composition of each composition

[0054]

[0055] Test Example 1: Test to verify the antioxidant effect of the composition

[0056] DPPH free radical scavenging

[0057] DPPH ethanol solution is violet in color and has a strong absorbance at 517 nm. If it combines with the sample solution to be tested, it will reduce the absorbance at 517 nm. This can be used to determine the ability of the sample solution to scavenge DPPH free radicals.

[0058] (1) Experimental design

[0059] The compositions of Examples 1-5 and Comparative Examples 1-4 were mixed with deionized water at a mass ratio of 1:9 and stirred until homogeneous to obtain 9 groups of test sample solutions.

[0060] DPPH is prepared into a 2×10-4 mol / L DPPH solution with anhydrous ethanol. Take 2 mL each of the sample solution to be tested, DPPH solution, and anhydrous ethanol. Mix 2 mL of the sample solution to be tested and 2 mL of DPPH solution and let it stand at room temperature for 30 minutes. Measure the absorbance at a wavelength of 517 nm to obtain Ai.

[0061] Mix 2 mL of the test sample with 2 mL of anhydrous ethanol and measure the absorbance as Aj according to the aforementioned method.

[0062] The absorbance was measured as Ac after mixing 2 mL of DPPH solution and 2 mL of anhydrous ethanol according to the aforementioned method.

[0063] Each sample was measured in triplicate, and the average value was taken.

[0064] The scavenging rate of DPPH free radicals of each test sample was calculated according to the following formula (1) and recorded in Table 2.

[0065] Clearance rate (%) = (1 - (Ai - Aj) / Ac) × 100% (1)

[0066] In the formula: Ai is the absorbance of a mixture of 2 mL test sample and 2 mL DPPH solution; Aj is the absorbance of a mixture of 2 mL test sample and 2 mL anhydrous ethanol; Ac is the absorbance of a mixture of 2 mL DPPH solution and 2 mL anhydrous ethanol. The higher the DPPH free radical scavenging rate, the better the antioxidant effect of the composition.

[0067] Table 2 DPPH removal rate

[0068] Group / Performance DPPH removal rate / % Example 1 82.97 Example 2 81.70 Example 3 83.52 Example 4 79.34 Example 5 83.89 Comparative Example 1 75.53 Comparative Example 2 69.16 Comparative Example 3 73.38 Comparative Example 4 70.87

[0069] Test Example 2: Test to verify the anti-glycation effect of the composition

[0070] Advanced Glycosylation Inhibition Assay

[0071] Test samples: Take the compositions of Examples 1-5 and Comparative Examples 1-4 and deionized water at a mass ratio of 1:9 and mix them evenly to obtain 9 groups of test sample solutions;

[0072] Test method: A mixed solution containing 80 mg / mL bovine serum albumin and 240 mg / mL glucose was prepared using 0.1 mol / L PBS and filtered through a 0.22 μm filter membrane as the saccharification reaction solution. Reaction systems A, B, C, and D were prepared according to Table 3. The final concentration of bovine serum albumin in each reaction system was 40 mg / mL, and the final concentration of glucose was 120 mg / mL.

[0073] Table 3 Preparation of each reaction system

[0074] raw material A B C D Saccharification reaction solution 1mL 0 1mL 0 Test sample solution or positive control solution 1mL 1mL 0 0 0.1 mol / L PBS 0 1mL 1mL 2mL

[0075] After thorough mixing, the mixture was incubated at 55°C for 4 days, with 1% aminoguanidine hydrochloride as a positive control. After the reaction, the incubated solution was cooled to room temperature for measurement. 200 μL of the reaction solution was added to each well of a 96-well plate, and the AGEs inhibition rate was detected and calculated using a fluorescence microplate reader at an excitation wavelength of 370 nm and an emission wavelength of 440 nm. The results are shown in Table 4. A higher AGEs inhibition rate indicates a better anti-glycation effect of the composition.

[0076] Formula for calculating AGEs inhibition rate: AGEs inhibition rate (%) = [1 - (AB) / (CD)] × 100%;

[0077] Where: fluorescence intensity of system A; fluorescence intensity of system B; fluorescence intensity of system C; fluorescence intensity of system D.

[0078] Table 4 AGEs Detection Results

[0079] Group / Performance AGEs inhibition rate / % Positive control solution 80.53 Example 1 43.29 Example 2 41.52 Example 3 43.36 Example 4 40.18 Example 5 43.22 Comparative Example 1 30.19 Comparative Example 2 37.24 Comparative Example 3 35.32 Comparative Example 4 32.80

[0080] As shown in Tables 2 and 4, the brightening, anti-glycation, and soothing composition provided by this invention has good in vitro free radical scavenging properties and AGEs inhibition effects. When any one component is missing from the composition, it has a significant impact on the antioxidant and anti-glycation properties of the composition, proving that the four components, namely, the bark extract of Dalbergia odorifera, the extract of Tricholoma matsutake mushroom, the flower extract of Inula japonica, and the extract of Dunaliella salina, have a certain synergistic effect in terms of antioxidant and anti-glycation.

[0081] Application Example 1 and Comparative Application Examples 1-4

[0082] The compositions of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-4 were added to the serum at a concentration of 3 wt% to obtain the serums of Application Examples 1-7 and Comparative Application Examples 1-5. The formulations are shown in Table 5.

[0083] The preparation method of the serum in Application Example 1 and Comparative Application Examples 1-4 includes the following steps:

[0084] S1. Mix the thickener and humectant evenly, add them to the solvent, stir at a water bath temperature of 75°C, keep warm for later use, and obtain the mixture.

[0085] S2. After the mixture cools down to 60°C, add the preservative and stir evenly. When the temperature drops to 40°C, add the brightening, anti-glycation, and soothing composition and stir evenly. Finally, add the pH adjuster to adjust the pH, stop stirring, and discharge to obtain the essence.

[0086] Table 5. Serum formulations for Application Example 1 and Comparative Application Examples 1-4

[0087]

[0088] Comparative Application Example 5

[0089] Compared to Application Example 5, the serum did not contain the brightening, anti-glycation, and soothing composition, but used an equal amount of deionized water instead of the composition, and the preparation method was the same as in Application Example 1.

[0090] Test Example 3: Safety Test of Serum

[0091] Allergy testing was conducted on the above application example 1, comparative application examples 1-5, and the control group in accordance with the human skin patch test in the "2015 Cosmetic Safety Technical Specifications".

[0092] The method for closed patch testing of the skin is as follows: 35 individuals aged 18-60 years were randomly divided into 7 groups of 5 people each, with random gender selection. The patch area used was no more than 50 mm². 2 A qualified patch applicator with a depth of approximately 1 mm was used. 0.020 mL of the essence prepared in Application Example 1 and Comparative Application Examples 1-5 was placed in the patch applicator chamber. The control well served as a blank control (without any substance). The patch applicator containing the finished product was applied to the flexor side of the subject's forearm using hypoallergenic adhesive tape. The skin was gently pressed with the palm of the hand to ensure even application, and left for 24 hours. Skin reactions were observed at 30 minutes (after the pressure marks disappeared), 24 hours, and 48 hours after removal of the finished product, and the results were recorded.

[0093] The results showed that all subjects had a negative reaction level of "-", or grade 0; that is, a negative reaction, and no allergic reactions were observed.

[0094] Test Example 4: Human Efficacy Test of Serum

[0095] (1) Brightening effect test of serum

[0096] This cosmetic brightening efficacy test protocol employed a randomized, double-blind, controlled trial design. Thirty volunteers aged 22-55 with similar skin tone and ITA values ​​were recruited and divided into 6 groups. Each group used the serum from Application Example 1 and the control groups from Application Examples 1-5, with 5 volunteers in each group. The serum was applied twice daily, morning and evening, with 1 mL applied each time. The test period was 28 days. The ITA values ​​of each group were measured initially and after 28 days of serum use using a multi-functional skin analyzer (model: MPA580) manufactured by CourageKhazaka, Germany. The ITA value improvement rate was calculated using the following formula, and the data are shown in Table 6.

[0097] ITA value improvement rate (%) = (ITA value) 使用后均值- ITA value 使用前均值 ) / ITA value 使用前均值×100%; The higher the ITA value improvement rate, the better the serum's brightening effect on skin tone.

[0098] (2) Test of the soothing effect of the serum

[0099] This cosmetic soothing efficacy test protocol employed a randomized, double-blind, controlled trial design. Thirty volunteers aged 22-55 with sensitive facial skin (a lactic acid stinging test score ≥3 on both sides of the nose) were recruited and divided into 6 groups. Each group used the serum from Application Example 1 and the control groups from Application Examples 1-5, with 5 volunteers in each group. The serum was used twice daily, morning and evening, at a dosage of 1 mL each time, for a 7-day testing period. Redness images were collected using a facial skin image analyzer, and the skin redness a* value in the images was analyzed using analysis software. The a* value was measured for each group initially and after 7 days of serum use. The a* value improvement rate was calculated using the following formula, and the data are shown in Table 6.

[0100] a* value improvement rate (%) = (a* value 使用前均值- a* value 使用后均值 ) / a*value 使用前均值 ×100%; The higher the a* value improvement rate, the better the serum's effect on reducing redness and soothing the skin.

[0101] (3) Test on the brightening effect of the serum

[0102] This test was conducted concurrently with the soothing effect test. The skin yellowness b* value in the images was analyzed using a skin facial image analyzer and analysis software. The b* value of each group of volunteers was measured at the beginning and 7 days after using the serum. The a* value improvement rate was calculated according to the following formula. The data are shown in Table 6.

[0103] b* value improvement rate (%) = (b* value 使用前均值- b* value 使用后均值 ) / b*value 使用前均值 ×100%; The higher the b* value improvement rate, the better the serum's effect on brightening and soothing.

[0104] Table 6. Results of human efficacy tests for each group of serums

[0105] Group / Performance ITA value improvement rate / % a* value improvement rate / % b* value improvement rate / % Application Example 1 12.72 22.61 17.45 Comparative Application Example 1 6.09 13.84 9.17 Comparative Application Example 2 5.13 12.28 8.24 Comparative Application Example 3 6.58 8.30 7.06 Comparative Application Example 4 4.37 10.54 7.78 Comparative Application Example 5 3.29 6.83 6.32

[0106] As shown in Table 6, the serum in Application Example 5, without the added composition, had the lowest ITA, a*, and b* value improvement rates among all groups, indicating that the composition is a crucial factor affecting the brightening, soothing, and yellowing-reducing effects of the serum. The serums in Application Examples 1-4 lacked one of the following ingredients in their compositions: *Palmaria dentata* bark extract, *Tricholoma matsutake* extract, *Inula japonica* flower extract, and *Dunaliella salina* extract, resulting in significantly lower ITA, a*, and b* value improvement rates compared to Application Example 1. Therefore, the combination of *Palmaria dentata* bark extract, *Tricholoma matsutake* extract, *Inula japonica* flower extract, and *Dunaliella salina* extract can improve the brightening, soothing, and yellowing-reducing effects of the serum.

[0107] Finally, it should be noted that the above embodiments are only used to illustrate the technical solutions of the present invention and are not intended to limit the scope of protection of the present invention. Although the present invention has been described in detail with reference to preferred embodiments, those skilled in the art should understand that modifications or equivalent substitutions can be made to the technical solutions of the present invention without departing from the essence and scope of the technical solutions of the present invention.

Claims

1. A brightening, anti-glycation, and soothing composition, characterized in that, The components include the following parts by weight: 0.9-9 parts of Dalbergia odorifera bark extract; 0.2-5 parts of matsutake mushroom extract; 0.5-2 parts of Eurasian Inula flower extract; Dunaliella salina extract 0.5-5 parts.

2. The brightening, anti-glycation, and soothing composition as described in claim 1, characterized in that, The components include the following parts by weight: 2-5 parts of Dalbergia odorifera bark extract; 0.8-2 parts of matsutake mushroom extract; 0.2-1 part of Eurasian Inula flower extract; Dunaliella salina extract 0.2-1 part.

3. The brightening, anti-glycation, and soothing composition as described in claim 1, characterized in that, The components include the following parts by weight: Three parts of palm bark extract; 1.5 parts of matsutake mushroom extract; 0.6 parts of Eurasian Inula flower extract; 0.4 parts of Dunaliella salina extract.

4. The use of the composition according to any one of claims 1-3 in the preparation of a skin care product having brightening, anti-glycation, and soothing effects.

5. The application as described in claim 4, characterized in that, The skincare product can be any one of the following forms: face cream, lotion, serum, or mask.

6. A serum with brightening, anti-glycation, and soothing effects, characterized in that, The serum comprises the brightening, anti-glycation, and soothing composition according to any one of claims 1-3, wherein the amount of the composition added to the serum is 0.1-5 wt%.

7. The essence as described in claim 6, characterized in that, The serum also includes thickeners, moisturizers, preservatives, pH adjusters, and solvents.

8. The essence as described in claim 7, characterized in that, The components of the serum are selected from at least one of (I)-(V); (I) The thickener is at least one of carbomer, acrylate / C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosspolymer and ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate / VP copolymer; (II) The moisturizer is at least one of glycerin, hyaluronic acid, propylene glycol, butylene glycol and panthenol; (III) The preservative is at least one of p-hydroxyacetophenone, 1,2-hexanediol and 1,2-pentanediol; (IV) The pH adjuster is at least one of arginine, citric acid, sodium citrate, tromethamine, and disodium EDTA; (V) The solvent is deionized water.

9. A method for preparing the essence as described in claim 7 or 8, characterized in that, Includes the following steps: S1. Add the thickener and humectant to the solvent and stir until well mixed to obtain a mixture; S2. Add the brightening, anti-glycation, and soothing ingredients, preservatives, and pH adjuster to the mixture and mix well to obtain the serum.

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