Wool gigging fabric and preparation method thereof
By employing a specific double-sided weaving structure and napping process in wool napped fabrics, the problem of wool yarn 'showing through' has been solved, achieving improvements in density, softness, and warmth, with excellent levels of clo value and pilling test results.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Applications(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- 上海嘉麟杰纺织科技有限公司
- Filing Date
- 2026-03-11
- Publication Date
- 2026-04-17
AI Technical Summary
Existing technologies are insufficient to effectively address the issue of "background showing" in fabrics caused by yarns with high bending resistance, such as wool, which affects the appearance and quality of the fabric.
Using double-sided fabric as the base fabric, through the specific weaving structure of the terry and flat sides, and using nylon 66DTY, shrink-resistant wool compact spinning and nylon-wrapped Lycra core-spun yarn, a stable three-dimensional structure is formed to prevent the yarn from shifting during the napping process. Combined with napping and setting processes, a napped fabric with strong three-dimensionality, high density, good softness and excellent warmth retention is formed.
It significantly reduces or even eliminates the problem of "showing the bottom", while improving the fabric's three-dimensionality, density, softness and warmth. The Clo value reaches above 0.45 Clo, the Martindale pilling test reaches level 4-5, and the RTPT random pilling test reaches level 4.
Smart Images

Figure CN121874993A_ABST
Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] This invention relates to the field of textile technology, specifically to a wool napped fabric and its preparation method. Background Technology
[0002] In the textile industry, napped fabrics possess a unique appearance, soft hand feel, and excellent warmth retention. Traditional napped fabrics generally employ three structural methods: terry loop, padding, and plush. Terry loop fabrics are created by creating nap through loop formation. Based on the direction of the loops, they can be categorized as overlocked and underlocked. Overlocked loops are primarily used for double-sided napping, while underlocked loops are mainly used for single-sided napping. Underlocked loops, with one side flat and the other looped, tend to have the loop yarns visible on the flat surface, creating a "show-through" problem. This not only affects the fabric's appearance but can also lead to pilling and fuzzing, reducing fabric quality.
[0003] Currently, existing manufacturing processes mainly improve the "background showing" problem by adjusting the yarn, changing the manufacturing process, and altering the knitting machine needle curve. However, for yarns with high bending resistance, such as wool and glass fiber, the improvement effect of the above methods is not ideal, and it is difficult to completely avoid the "background showing" problem.
[0004] Therefore, for yarns with high bending resistance such as wool, how to obtain a napped fabric that reduces "background exposure" is a technical problem that needs to be solved. Summary of the Invention
[0005] To address the above problems, the present invention aims to provide a wool napped fabric and its preparation method. Compared with the prior art, the napped fabric provided by the present invention uses double-sided fabric as the base fabric and utilizes the loop structure on the surface of the double-sided fabric to form a napped surface, which can effectively solve the problem of "showing the base" and achieve a full and highly warm napped effect.
[0006] To achieve this objective, the present invention adopts the following technical solution: In a first aspect, the present invention provides a wool napped fabric, wherein the wool napped fabric is obtained by double-sided napping. One side of the double-sided fabric is a flat side, and the other side is a loop side. The loop side is napped to obtain a raised side. The terry cloth surface is made of nylon 66DTY and shrink-resistant wool tightly spun, and the terry cloth surface has a terry cloth structure, which is a shrink-resistant wool tightly spun. The flat surface is woven from nylon-covered Lycra core-spun yarn.
[0007] This invention, based on double-sided fabric, features a specially designed terry loop surface. It uses nylon-lycra-wrapped core-spun yarn as the face yarn, nylon 66DTY as the connecting yarn, and shrink-resistant wool compact yarn as the terry loop yarn, woven together to create the fabric. The flat and terry loop surfaces are firmly bonded, forming a stable three-dimensional structure. This prevents the terry loop yarn from being pulled out or shifted during napping or use, significantly reducing or even eliminating the "backing material showing" problem. Furthermore, the shrink-resistant wool compact yarn has high bending resistance and good resilience, and after napping, it can form a pile fabric with a strong three-dimensional effect, high density, good softness, and excellent warmth retention.
[0008] Preferably, the nylon 66DTY includes 30D / 34F nylon 66DTY.
[0009] Preferably, the shrink-resistant wool compact yarn comprises 72N / 1 shrink-resistant wool compact yarn.
[0010] Preferably, the nylon-wrapped Lycra core-spun yarn comprises 70D nylon-wrapped 40D Lycra core-spun yarn.
[0011] In this invention, 30D / 34F nylon 66DTY is preferred for nylon 66DTY, 72N / 1 nylon compact yarn is preferred for shrink-resistant wool compact yarn, and 70D nylon-wrapped Lycra core-spun yarn is preferred for nylon-wrapped 40D Lycra core-spun yarn. This ensures that the face yarn, i.e., the nylon-wrapped Lycra core-spun yarn, has good resilience. By reasonably controlling the weight and the size of the loops, the loops have sufficient stiffness and three-dimensionality. This avoids the loops being too small due to the nylon 66DTY yarn being too coarse, while also reserving sufficient space for loop formation, ultimately resulting in a strong three-dimensionality and stable shape of the loops.
[0012] Preferably, the double-sided fabric is woven using a double-sided knitting machine.
[0013] Preferably, the double-sided knitting machine includes a 30-inch 28-needle double-sided knitting machine.
[0014] Preferably, the basis weight of the double-sided fabric is 200-330 g / m². 2 For example, it could be 200g / m 2 210g / m 2 220g / m 2 230g / m 2 240g / m 2 250g / m 2 260g / m 2 270g / m 2 280g / m 2 290g / m 2 300g / m 2 Or 330g / m 2 However, this does not limit the listed values; other unlisted values within the range are also applicable.
[0015] Preferably, the width of the double-sided fabric is 150-170cm, for example, it can be 150cm, 152cm, 154cm, 156cm, 158cm, 160cm, 162cm, 164cm, 166cm, 168cm or 170cm, but is not limited to the listed values, and other unlisted values within the range are also applicable.
[0016] Preferably, the double-sided fabric is arranged in a triangular pattern with six rows forming a cycle. The yarn is threaded as follows: rows ① and ④ are nylon 66DTY, rows ② and ⑤ are nylon Lycra core-spun yarn, and rows ③ and ⑥ are shrink-resistant wool compact yarn.
[0017] In this invention, by specifically adopting the above-mentioned triangular arrangement, space can be reserved on the loop surface for the tight spinning of anti-shrink wool, so that the loop naturally bends upward during the rebound process of the core-spun yarn.
[0018] Preferably, the length of the 50N wires in the first and fourth channels is 8-10cm, for example, it can be 8cm, 8.2cm, 8.4cm, 8.6cm, 8.8cm, 9cm, 9.2cm, 9.4cm, 9.6cm, 9.8cm or 10cm, but is not limited to the listed values. Other unlisted values within the range are also applicable.
[0019] Preferably, the length of the 50N wire in the second and fifth paths is 12-14cm, for example, it can be 12cm, 12.2cm, 12.4cm, 12.6cm, 12.8cm, 13cm, 13.2cm, 13.4cm, 13.6cm, 13.8cm or 14cm, but is not limited to the listed values. Other unlisted values within the range are also applicable.
[0020] Preferably, the length of the 50N wires in channels ③ and ⑥ is 9-11cm, for example, it can be 9cm, 9.2cm, 9.4cm, 9.6cm, 9.8cm, 10cm, 10.2cm, 10.4cm, 10.6cm, 10.8cm or 11cm, but is not limited to the listed values. Other unlisted values within the range are also applicable.
[0021] In a second aspect, the present invention provides a method for preparing a wool napped fabric as described in the first aspect of the present invention, the method comprising the following steps: Double-sided fabric is made by double-sided weaving using nylon 66DTY, shrink-resistant wool compact spinning and nylon-lycra-wrapped core-spun yarn; The double-sided fabric is subjected to pre-shrinking, opening, pre-shaping, dyeing, drying, auxiliary agent shaping, napping, shearing and final shaping in sequence to obtain wool napped fabric.
[0022] The preparation method provided by this invention, through processes such as weaving, pre-shrinking, opening, pre-setting, dyeing, drying, auxiliary agent setting, napping, shearing and final setting, can obtain a pile fabric with strong three-dimensionality, high density, good softness and excellent warmth retention.
[0023] Preferably, the pre-shrinking includes a first pre-shrinking, a second pre-shrinking, and a third pre-shrinking performed sequentially.
[0024] In this invention, the pre-shrinking includes immersing the double-sided fabric in a pre-shrinking liquid for a first pre-shrinking, a second pre-shrinking, and a third pre-shrinking. The pre-shrinking liquid can be a commonly used pre-shrinking liquid in the art, including but not limited to the following: 1-3 g / L of ImacolX-JETliq (purchased from Jinan Liyang Chemical Co., Ltd.), 0.5-1.5 g / L of TISSOCYLRC9 (purchased from Shaoxing Demei New Materials Co., Ltd.), and 4-6 g / L of anhydrous sodium sulfate (sodium sulfate).
[0025] Preferably, the temperature of the first pre-shrinking is 80-100℃, for example, it can be 80℃, 82℃, 84℃, 86℃, 88℃, 90℃, 92℃, 94℃, 96℃, 98℃ or 100℃, but is not limited to the listed values, and other unlisted values within the range are also applicable.
[0026] Preferably, the first pre-shrinking time is 10-30 min, for example, it can be 10 min, 12 min, 14 min, 16 min, 18 min, 20 min, 22 min, 24 min, 26 min, 28 min or 30 min, but is not limited to the listed values. Other unlisted values within the range are also applicable.
[0027] Preferably, the temperature of the second pre-shrinkage is 50-70°C, for example, it can be 50°C, 52°C, 54°C, 56°C, 58°C, 60°C, 62°C, 64°C, 66°C, 68°C or 70°C, but is not limited to the listed values. Other unlisted values within the range are also applicable.
[0028] Preferably, the second pre-shrinking time is 5-15 minutes, for example, it can be 5 minutes, 6 minutes, 7 minutes, 8 minutes, 9 minutes, 10 minutes, 11 minutes, 12 minutes, 13 minutes, 14 minutes or 15 minutes, but is not limited to the listed values. Other unlisted values within the range are also applicable.
[0029] Preferably, the temperature of the third pre-shrinking is 30-50℃, for example, it can be 30℃, 32℃, 34℃, 36℃, 38℃, 40℃, 42℃, 44℃, 46℃, 48℃ or 50℃, but is not limited to the listed values. Other unlisted values within the range are also applicable.
[0030] Preferably, the third pre-shrinking time is 5-15 minutes, for example, it can be 5 minutes, 6 minutes, 7 minutes, 8 minutes, 9 minutes, 10 minutes, 11 minutes, 12 minutes, 13 minutes, 14 minutes or 15 minutes, but is not limited to the listed values. Other unlisted values within the range are also applicable.
[0031] Preferably, the predetermined temperature is 190-195℃, for example, it can be 190℃, 191℃, 192℃, 193℃, 194℃ or 195℃, but is not limited to the listed values, and other unlisted values within the range are also applicable.
[0032] Preferably, the predetermined vehicle speed is 10-20 m / min, for example, it can be 10 m / min, 11 m / min, 12 m / min, 13 m / min, 14 m / min, 15 m / min, 16 m / min, 17 m / min, 18 m / min, 19 m / min or 20 m / min, but is not limited to the listed values, and other unlisted values within the range are also applicable.
[0033] Preferably, the predetermined overfeed amount is 5-10%, for example, it can be 5%, 6%, 7%, 8%, 9% or 10%, but is not limited to the listed values. Other unlisted values within the range are also applicable.
[0034] In this invention, the dyeing process includes, but is not limited to, sequential dyeing, washing, soaping, fixing, and softening steps. The specific dyeing method can be any conventional method in the art, as long as it does not affect the technical effect of this invention. For example, the dyeing process can be performed using a commonly used dye such as D54 acetone black at 90-100°C for 50-70 minutes. The washing process can be performed by first washing with a 0.2-0.4 g / L 75% acetic acid solution at 50-70°C for 5-15 minutes, then washing with a 1-2 g / L 75% acetic acid solution at 70-90°C for 5-15 minutes, followed by washing at 50-70°C for 5-15 minutes, and finally washing at 30-50°C for 5-15 minutes. For example, the soaping treatment method can be as follows: first, wash with hot water at 50-70℃ for 2-10 minutes, then use 0.5-1.5 g / L MC-280 (anti-staining soaping agent, purchased from Kunshan Mingjia Additives Co., Ltd.) as the soaping solution, first soaping at 60-80℃ for 5-15 minutes, then soaping at 50-70℃ for 5-15 minutes, and finally soaping at 30-50℃ for 5-15 minutes. For example, the color-fixing treatment method can be as follows: treat with 3-5% TechfitCRH-A (color-fixing agent, purchased from Taihu Asia Pacific Fine Chemicals Co., Ltd.) for 5-15 minutes, then use 0.5-0.7 g / L 75% acetic acid solution to fix the color first at 60-80℃ for 10-30 minutes, then fix the color at 50-70℃ for 5-15 minutes, and finally fix the color at 30-50℃ for 5-15 minutes. For example, a softening treatment method can be to use a softener TF-406P (purchased from Zhejiang Transfar Co., Ltd.) with a mass concentration of 1-3% and soften at 30-50℃ for 10-30 minutes.
[0035] Preferably, the drying temperature is 120-140℃, for example, it can be 120℃, 125℃, 130℃, 135℃ or 140℃, but is not limited to the listed values, and other unlisted values within the range are also applicable.
[0036] Preferably, the auxiliary agent solution used for the finishing of the auxiliary agent includes, by mass percentage, 0.4-0.6% SIH (softener, purchased from Angco Chemical (China) Co., Ltd.), 0.05-0.15% NE (compound conditioning acid, purchased from Angco Chemical (China) Co., Ltd.), and the balance is water.
[0037] Preferably, the temperature for setting the additive is 130-150℃, for example, it can be 130℃, 135℃, 140℃, 145℃ or 150℃, but is not limited to the listed values, and other unlisted values within the range are also applicable.
[0038] Preferably, the speed of the vehicle for setting the additive is 10-20 m / min, for example, it can be 10 m / min, 12 m / min, 14 m / min, 16 m / min, 18 m / min or 20 m / min, but is not limited to the listed values. Other unlisted values within the range are also applicable.
[0039] Preferably, the overfeed amount for the additive shaping is 10-20%, for example, it can be 10%, 12%, 14%, 16%, 18% or 20%, but is not limited to the listed values. Other unlisted values within the range are also applicable.
[0040] Preferably, the texturing includes a first texturing and a second texturing performed sequentially.
[0041] Preferably, the first napping includes using a napping machine to nap the looped surface against the nap direction.
[0042] Preferably, the feeding speed of the first napping is 10-20 m / min, for example, it can be 10 m / min, 12 m / min, 14 m / min, 16 m / min, 18 m / min or 20 m / min, but is not limited to the listed values, and other unlisted values within the range are also applicable.
[0043] Preferably, the fabric output speed of the first napping is 1-5 m / min, for example, it can be 1 m / min, 2 m / min, 3 m / min, 4 m / min or 5 m / min, but is not limited to the listed values. Other unlisted values within the range are also applicable.
[0044] Preferably, the tension of the first tensioning roller is 1-2 CN, for example, it can be 1 CN, 1.2 CN, 1.4 CN, 1.6 CN, 1.8 CN or 2 CN, but is not limited to the listed values. Other unlisted values within the range are also applicable.
[0045] Preferably, the speed of the first brushing roller is 150-160 rpm, for example, it can be 150 rpm, 152 rpm, 154 rpm, 156 rpm, 158 rpm or 160 rpm, but is not limited to the listed values, and other unlisted values within the range are also applicable.
[0046] Preferably, the second napping includes using a napping machine to nap the looped surface against the nap direction.
[0047] Preferably, the feeding speed of the second napping is 5-15 m / min, for example, it can be 5 m / min, 6 m / min, 7 m / min, 8 m / min, 9 m / min, 10 m / min, 11 m / min, 12 m / min, 13 m / min, 14 m / min or 15 m / min, but is not limited to the listed values, and other unlisted values within the range are also applicable.
[0048] Preferably, the fabric output speed of the second napping is 1-5 m / min, for example, it can be 1 m / min, 2 m / min, 3 m / min, 4 m / min or 5 m / min, but is not limited to the listed values. Other unlisted values within the range are also applicable.
[0049] Preferably, the tension of the second tension roller for sizing is 0.5-1.5 CN, for example, it can be 0.5 CN, 0.6 CN, 0.8 CN, 1.0 CN, 1.2 CN, 1.4 CN or 1.5 CN, but is not limited to the listed values. Other unlisted values within the range are also applicable.
[0050] Preferably, the speed of the second brushing roller is 150-160 rpm, for example, it can be 150 rpm, 152 rpm, 154 rpm, 156 rpm, 158 rpm or 160 rpm, but is not limited to the listed values, and other unlisted values within the range are also applicable.
[0051] Preferably, the shearing includes using a shearing machine to shear the looped surface in the direction of the hair.
[0052] Preferably, the feeding speed of the shearing fabric is 2-15 m / min, for example, it can be 2 m / min, 5 m / min, 6 m / min, 7 m / min, 8 m / min, 9 m / min, 10 m / min, 11 m / min, 12 m / min, 13 m / min, 14 m / min or 15 m / min, but is not limited to the listed values, and other unlisted values within the range are also applicable.
[0053] Preferably, the fabric output speed of the shearing process is 2-5 m / min, for example, it can be 2 m / min, 3 m / min, 4 m / min or 5 m / min, but is not limited to the listed values. Other unlisted values within the range are also applicable.
[0054] Preferably, the shearing speed is 1000-1200 rpm, for example, it can be 1000 rpm, 1050 rpm, 1100 rpm, 1150 rpm or 1200 rpm, but is not limited to the listed values. Other unlisted values within the range are also applicable.
[0055] Preferably, the brush speed for trimming is 40-60 rpm, for example, it can be 40 rpm, 42 rpm, 44 rpm, 46 rpm, 48 rpm, 50 rpm, 52 rpm, 54 rpm, 56 rpm, 58 rpm or 60 rpm, but is not limited to the listed values, and other unlisted values within the range are also applicable.
[0056] Preferably, the hair height of the trimmed hair is 1-2mm, for example, it can be 1mm, 1.2mm, 1.4mm, 1.5mm, 1.6mm, 1.8mm or 2mm, but is not limited to the listed values. Other unlisted values within the range are also applicable.
[0057] Preferably, the final shaping temperature is 150-160℃, for example, it can be 150℃, 152℃, 154℃, 156℃, 158℃ or 160℃, but is not limited to the listed values, and other unlisted values within the range are also applicable.
[0058] Preferably, the finalized vehicle speed is 10-30 m / min, for example, it can be 10 m / min, 12 m / min, 14 m / min, 16 m / min, 18 m / min, 20 m / min, 22 m / min, 24 m / min, 26 m / min, 28 m / min or 30 m / min, but is not limited to the listed values, and other unlisted values within the range are also applicable.
[0059] Preferably, the final overfeed amount is 5-20%, for example, it can be 5%, 6%, 7%, 8%, 9%, 10%, 11%, 12%, 13%, 14%, 15%, 16%, 18% or 20%, but is not limited to the listed values. Other unlisted values within the range are also applicable.
[0060] As a preferred embodiment of the second aspect of the present invention, the preparation method includes the following steps: Double-sided fabric is made by double-sided weaving using nylon 66DTY, shrink-resistant wool compact spinning and nylon-lycra-wrapped core-spun yarn; The double-sided fabric is pre-shrinked using a pre-shrinking solution comprising 1-3 g / L Imacol X-JETliq, 0.5-1.5 g / L TISSOCYLRC9, and 4-6 g / L anhydrous sodium sulfate. The fabric is first pre-shrinked at 80-100°C for 10-30 min, then pre-shrinked at 50-70°C for 5-15 min, and then pre-shrinked a third time at 30-50°C for 5-15 min before being opened. Next, pre-sizing is performed at 190-195℃, machine speed of 10-20m / min, and overfeed of 5-10%, followed by dyeing, and then drying at 120-140℃. Then, auxiliary sizing is performed at 130-150℃, machine speed of 10-20m / min, and overfeed of 10-20%, using an auxiliary agent solution including 0.4-0.6% SIH and 0.05-0.15% NE. Then, the first napping is performed under the following conditions: fabric feed speed of 10-20m / min, fabric output speed of 1-5m / min, tension of the tension roller of 1-2CN, and roller speed of 150-160rpm. Then, the second napping is performed under the following conditions: fabric feed speed of 5-15m / min, fabric output speed of 1-5m / min, tension of the tension roller of 0.5-1.5CN, and roller speed of 150-160rpm. Then, the napping is performed under the following conditions: fabric feed speed of 2-15m / min, fabric output speed of 2-5m / min, blade speed of 1000-1200rpm, brush speed of 40-60rpm, and nap height of 1-2mm. Finally, the final shaping is carried out at 150-160℃, a machine speed of 10-30m / min, and an overfeed of 5-20% to obtain the wool napped fabric.
[0061] Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following beneficial effects: (1) The wool napped fabric provided by the present invention is a double-sided fabric with a loop structure on one side, which avoids the loop yarn from being pulled out or shifted during napping or use, significantly reducing or even eliminating the problem of "showing the bottom", and after napping, it can form a napped effect with strong three-dimensionality, high density, good softness and excellent warmth retention.
[0062] (2) The wool napped fabric provided by the present invention has a Clo value of 0.45 or higher, a Martindale pilling test level of 4-5, an RTPT random pilling test level of 4, and will not produce a "showing the bottom" problem. Attached Figure Description
[0063] Figure 1 These are schematic diagrams of the triangular arrangement provided in embodiments 1-3 of the present invention; Figure 2 This is a schematic diagram of the triangular arrangement provided in Comparative Example 3 of the present invention. Detailed Implementation
[0064] The technical solution of the present invention will be further illustrated below through specific embodiments. Those skilled in the art should understand that the embodiments described are merely illustrative of the present invention and should not be construed as limiting the invention in any way.
[0065] The numerical range described in this invention includes not only the point values listed above, but also any point values within the numerical ranges not listed above. Due to space limitations and for the sake of brevity, this invention will not exhaustively list all the specific point values included in the range.
[0066] Unless otherwise specified below, all raw materials used in the embodiments and comparative examples of this invention are commercially available; ImacolX-JETliq, purchased from Jinan Liyang Chemical Co., Ltd. TISSOCYLRC9, purchased from Shaoxing Demei New Materials Co., Ltd.; MC-280, anti-stain soap detergent, purchased from Kunshan Mingjia Additives Co., Ltd.; TechfitCRH-A, a color-fixing agent, was purchased from Taihu Asia Pacific Fine Chemicals Co., Ltd. TF-406P, fabric softener, purchased from Zhejiang Transfar Co., Ltd. SIH, a fabric softener, was purchased from Angco Chemical (China) Co., Ltd. NE, a compound regulating acid, was purchased from Angco Chemical (China) Co., Ltd.
[0067] Example 1 This embodiment provides a wool napped fabric, which is obtained by double-sided napping. One side of the double-sided fabric is a flat side, and the other side is a loop side. The loop side is napped to obtain the napped side. The loop side is woven from 30D / 34F nylon 66DTY and 72N / 1 shrink-resistant wool in a compact spun yarn. The loop side has a loop structure, and the loop structure is a shrink-resistant wool in a compact spun yarn. The flat side is woven from 70D nylon wrapped with 40D Lycra core-spun yarn.
[0068] The double-sided fabric is woven on a 30-inch 28-needle double-sided machine, and its weight is 295g / m². 2 The width of the double-sided fabric is 165cm.
[0069] The double-sided fabric is arranged in a triangular pattern, such as... Figure 1 As shown, each cycle consists of six yarns, with the following yarn patterns: Yarns ① and ④ are 30D / 34F nylon 66DTY with 50N yarn length of 9cm; yarns ② and ⑤ are 70D nylon core-spun with 40D Lycra yarn with 50N yarn length of 13.5cm; and yarns ③ and ⑥ are 72N / 1 shrink-resistant wool compact yarn with 50N yarn length of 10cm.
[0070] This embodiment also provides a method for preparing the above-mentioned wool napped fabric, the method comprising the following steps: Double-sided fabric is made by double-sided weaving using nylon 66DTY, shrink-resistant wool compact spinning and nylon-lycra-wrapped core-spun yarn; The double-sided fabric is pre-shrinked using a pre-shrinking solution containing 2 g / L ImacolX-JETliq, 1 g / L TISSOCYLRC9, and 5 g / L anhydrous sodium sulfate. The fabric is first pre-shrinked at 90°C for 20 min, then pre-shrinked at 60°C for 10 min, and then pre-shrinked at 40°C for 10 min before being opened. Next, the pre-type test was carried out at 192℃, a vehicle speed of 15m / min, and an overfeed of 8%. Afterwards, staining was performed at 90℃ for 60 minutes. Then, a washing process was conducted: first, washing with a 0.39 g / L 75% acetic acid solution at 60℃ for 10 minutes; then, washing with a 1.3 g / L 75% acetic acid solution at 80℃ for 10 minutes; followed by washing at 60℃ for 10 minutes; and finally, washing at 40℃ for 10 minutes. Next, a soaping process was performed: first, washing with hot water at 60℃ for 5 minutes; then, using 1 g / L MC-280 as the soaping solution, soaping was performed at 70℃. After washing for 10 minutes, the product is soaped at 60°C for 10 minutes, and then soaped at 40°C for 10 minutes. Following this, a color-fixing treatment is performed using 4% TechfitCRH-A for 10 minutes, then a 0.65 g / L 75% acetic acid solution is used to fix the color at 70°C for 20 minutes, then at 60°C for 10 minutes, and finally at 40°C for 10 minutes. Finally, a softening treatment is performed using 2% TF-406P softener at 40°C for 20 minutes. Afterwards, it was dried at 130°C, and then the additives were fixed at 140°C, with a machine speed of 15m / min and an overfeed of 15%, using an additive solution containing 0.5% SIH and 0.1% NE. Then, the first napping was performed under the following conditions: fabric feed speed of 15m / min, fabric output speed of 2m / min, tension of the tension roller of 1.5CN, and roller speed of 155rpm. Then, the second napping was performed under the following conditions: fabric feed speed of 10m / min, fabric output speed of 2m / min, tension of the tension roller of 1CN, and roller speed of 155rpm. Then, the napping was trimmed under the following conditions: fabric feed speed of 2.5m / min, fabric output speed of 2.5m / min, blade speed of 1100rpm, and brush speed of 50rpm. After trimming, the nap height was 1.5±0.3mm. Finally, the fabric is set at 150℃, 20m / min speed, and 10% overfeed to obtain the wool napped fabric.
[0071] Example 2 This embodiment provides a wool napped fabric, which is obtained by double-sided napping. One side of the double-sided fabric is a flat side, and the other side is a loop side. The loop side is napped to obtain the napped side. The loop side is woven from 30D / 34F nylon 66DTY and 72N / 1 shrink-resistant wool in a compact spun yarn. The loop side has a loop structure, and the loop structure is a shrink-resistant wool in a compact spun yarn. The flat side is woven from 70D nylon wrapped with 40D Lycra core-spun yarn.
[0072] The double-sided fabric is woven on a 30-inch 28-needle double-sided machine, and its weight is 280g / m². 2 The width of the double-sided fabric is 170cm.
[0073] The double-sided fabric is arranged in a triangular pattern, such as... Figure 1 As shown, each cycle consists of six yarns, with the following yarn patterns: Yarns ① and ④ are 30D / 34F nylon 66DTY with a 50N yarn length of 9.5cm; yarns ② and ⑤ are 70D nylon core-spun with 40D Lycra, with a 50N yarn length of 14cm; and yarns ③ and ⑥ are 72N / 1 shrink-resistant wool compact yarn with a 50N yarn length of 10.5cm.
[0074] This embodiment also provides a method for preparing the above-mentioned wool napped fabric, the method comprising the following steps: Double-sided fabric is made by double-sided weaving using nylon 66DTY, shrink-resistant wool compact spinning and nylon-lycra-wrapped core-spun yarn; The double-sided fabric is pre-shrinked using a pre-shrinking solution containing 2 g / L ImacolX-JETliq, 1 g / L TISSOCYLRC9, and 5 g / L anhydrous sodium sulfate. The fabric is first pre-shrinked at 80°C for 30 min, then pre-shrinked at 50°C for 15 min, and then pre-shrinked at 30°C for 15 min before being opened. Next, the pre-type test was carried out at 190℃, a vehicle speed of 20m / min, and an overfeed of 5%. Afterwards, staining was performed at 90℃ for 60 minutes. Then, a washing process was conducted: first, washing with a 0.39 g / L 75% acetic acid solution at 60℃ for 10 minutes; then, washing with a 1.3 g / L 75% acetic acid solution at 80℃ for 10 minutes; followed by washing at 60℃ for 10 minutes; and finally, washing at 40℃ for 10 minutes. Next, a soaping process was performed: first, washing with hot water at 60℃ for 5 minutes; then, using 1 g / L MC-280 as the soaping solution, soaping was performed at 70℃. After washing for 10 minutes, the product is soaped at 60°C for 10 minutes, and then soaped at 40°C for 10 minutes. Following this, a color-fixing treatment is performed using 4% TechfitCRH-A for 10 minutes, then a 0.65 g / L 75% acetic acid solution is used to fix the color at 70°C for 20 minutes, then at 60°C for 10 minutes, and finally at 40°C for 10 minutes. Finally, a softening treatment is performed using 2% TF-406P softener at 40°C for 20 minutes. Afterwards, it was dried at 120°C, and then the additives were fixed at 150°C, with a machine speed of 10m / min and an overfeed of 20%, using an additive solution containing 0.5% SIH and 0.1% NE. Then, the first napping was performed under the following conditions: fabric feed speed of 20m / min, fabric output speed of 1m / min, tension of 2CN on the tension roller, and roller speed of 150rpm. Then, the second napping was performed under the following conditions: fabric feed speed of 15m / min, fabric output speed of 1m / min, tension of 1.5CN on the tension roller, and roller speed of 150rpm. Then, the nap was trimmed under the following conditions: fabric feed speed of 15m / min, fabric output speed of 2m / min, blade speed of 1200rpm, and brush speed of 40rpm. After trimming, the nap height was 1.5±0.3mm. Finally, the fabric is set at 150℃, 10m / min speed, and 15% overfeed to obtain the wool napped fabric.
[0075] Example 3 This embodiment provides a wool napped fabric, which is obtained by double-sided napping. One side of the double-sided fabric is a flat side, and the other side is a loop side. The loop side is napped to obtain the napped side. The loop side is woven from 30D / 34F nylon 66DTY and 72N / 1 shrink-resistant wool in a compact spun yarn. The loop side has a loop structure, and the loop structure is a shrink-resistant wool in a compact spun yarn. The flat side is woven from 70D nylon wrapped with 40D Lycra core-spun yarn.
[0076] The double-sided fabric is woven on a 30-inch 28-needle double-sided knitting machine, and its weight is 330g / m². 2The width of the double-sided fabric is 150cm.
[0077] The double-sided fabric is arranged in a triangular pattern, such as... Figure 1 As shown, each cycle consists of six yarns, with the following yarn patterns: Yarns ① and ④ are 30D / 34F nylon 66DTY with 50N yarn length of 10cm; yarns ② and ⑤ are 70D nylon core-spun with 40D Lycra yarn with 50N yarn length of 13.5cm; and yarns ③ and ⑥ are 72N / 1 shrink-resistant wool compact yarn with 50N yarn length of 11cm.
[0078] This embodiment also provides a method for preparing the above-mentioned wool napped fabric, the method comprising the following steps: Double-sided fabric is made by double-sided weaving using nylon 66DTY, shrink-resistant wool compact spinning and nylon-lycra-wrapped core-spun yarn; The double-sided fabric is pre-shrinked, that is, a pre-shrinking solution containing 2 g / L ImacolX-JETliq, 1 g / L TISSOCYLRC9, and 5 g / L anhydrous sodium sulfate is used. First, it is pre-shrinked at 100°C for 10 min, then at 70°C for 5 min, and then at 50°C for 5 min, and then it is opened. Next, the pre-type test was carried out at 195℃, a vehicle speed of 10m / min, and an overfeed of 10%. Afterwards, staining was performed at 90℃ for 60 minutes. Then, a washing process was conducted: first, washing with a 0.39 g / L 75% acetic acid solution at 60℃ for 10 minutes; then, washing with a 1.3 g / L 75% acetic acid solution at 80℃ for 10 minutes; followed by washing at 60℃ for 10 minutes; and finally, washing at 40℃ for 10 minutes. Next, a soaping process was performed: first, washing with hot water at 60℃ for 5 minutes; then, using 1 g / L MC-280 as the soaping solution, soaping was performed at 70℃. After washing for 10 minutes, the product is soaped at 60°C for 10 minutes, and then soaped at 40°C for 10 minutes. Following this, a color-fixing treatment is performed using 4% TechfitCRH-A for 10 minutes, then a 0.65 g / L 75% acetic acid solution is used to fix the color at 70°C for 20 minutes, then at 60°C for 10 minutes, and finally at 40°C for 10 minutes. Finally, a softening treatment is performed using 2% TF-406P softener at 40°C for 20 minutes. Afterwards, it was dried at 140℃, and then the additives were fixed using an additive solution containing 0.5% SIH and 0.1% NE at 130℃, a machine speed of 20m / min, and an overfeed of 10%. Then, the first napping was performed under the following conditions: fabric feed speed of 10m / min, fabric output speed of 5m / min, tension of 1CN on the tension roller, and roller speed of 160rpm. Then, the second napping was performed under the following conditions: fabric feed speed of 5m / min, fabric output speed of 5m / min, tension of 0.5CN on the tension roller, and roller speed of 160rpm. Then, the nap was trimmed under the following conditions: fabric feed speed of 2m / min, fabric output speed of 5m / min, blade speed of 1000rpm, and brush speed of 60rpm. After trimming, the nap height was 1.5±0.3mm. Finally, the final shaping was carried out at 160℃, a machine speed of 30m / min, and an overfeed of 5% to obtain the wool napped fabric.
[0079] Example 4 This embodiment provides a wool napped fabric, which differs from Embodiment 1 only in that the 72N / 1 shrink-resistant wool compact yarn is replaced with 80N / 1 shrink-resistant wool compact yarn.
[0080] Example 5 This embodiment provides a wool napped fabric, which differs from Embodiment 1 only in that the 70D nylon-wrapped 40D Lycra core-spun yarn is replaced with 30D nylon-wrapped 40D Lycra core-spun yarn.
[0081] Comparative Example 1 This comparative example provides a wool napped fabric, which differs from Example 1 only in that the 70D nylon-wrapped 40D Lycra core-spun yarn is replaced with 70D nylon.
[0082] Comparative Example 2 This comparative example provides a wool napped fabric, which differs from Example 1 only in that the 72N / 1 shrink-resistant wool compact yarn is replaced with 150D polyester.
[0083] Comparative Example 3 This comparative example provides a wool napped fabric, differing from Example 1 only in that the flat surface is woven with 70D nylon wrapped with 40D Lycra core-spun yarn, with a 50N yarn length of 13.5cm, while the terry surface is woven with 72N / 1 shrink-resistant wool tightly spun yarn, with a 50N yarn length of 26cm, and its triangular arrangement is as follows: Figure 2 As shown.
[0084] The pilling effect of the wool napped fabrics obtained in the above embodiments and comparative examples was tested. The pilling condition of the flat surface was evaluated using Martindale ISO12945-2, and the severity of pilling was assigned to a grade as shown in Table 1, where grades 1-5 indicate decreasing pilling degree, grade 5 indicates no surface change, and grade 1 indicates severe pilling. The pilling condition of the napped surface was evaluated using the RTPT random flipping pilling test ISO12945-3, with a test time of 30 minutes. The severity of pilling was assigned to a grade as shown in Table 1, where grades 1-5 indicate decreasing pilling degree, grade 5 indicates no surface change, and grade 1 indicates severe pilling.
[0085] The shedding rate of the wool napped fabrics obtained in the above embodiments and comparative examples was evaluated using AATCC TM212-2021 OptonB, as shown in Table 1.
[0086] The "background exposure" of the wool napped fabrics obtained in the above embodiments and comparative examples was statistically analyzed. The number of loops in a 5cm×5cm wool napped fabric was 5600. The number of "background exposures" is shown in Table 1.
[0087] The tactile feel of the wool napped fabrics obtained in the above embodiments and comparative examples was tested. The nap of the product was touched with the back of the hand, and the tactile feel was recorded, as shown in Table 1.
[0088] The warmth retention of the wool napped fabrics obtained in the above embodiments and comparative examples was tested, and the Clo values were statistically analyzed, as shown in Table 1.
[0089] Table 1 As can be seen from Table 1: (1) As can be seen from the data of Examples 1-5, the clo value of the wool napped fabric provided by the present invention reaches 0.45Clo or above, the Martindale pilling test reaches level 4-5, the RTPT random pilling test reaches level 4, and there is no "exposed bottom" problem.
[0090] (2) As can be seen from the data of Examples 1 and 4-5, the present invention can further improve the fullness of wool napped fabric and improve its warmth by controlling the fineness of the shrink-resistant wool compact spinning and the nylon-wrapped Lycra core-spun yarn.
[0091] (3) As can be seen from the data of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-2, the present invention can improve the fullness of the loops and the warmth retention effect by using nylon-wrapped Lycra core-spun yarn to weave a flat surface and using shrink-resistant wool to tightly weave a loop structure. The napped surface is also good at resisting pilling.
[0092] (4) As can be seen from the data of Example 1 and Comparative Example 3, the double-sided fabric structure provided by the present invention is less likely to have the problem of "showing the bottom" compared with existing wool napped fabrics such as Comparative Example 3, and has a lower shedding rate and better warmth retention.
[0093] The above description is only a specific embodiment of the present invention, but the protection scope of the present invention is not limited thereto. Those skilled in the art should understand that any changes or substitutions that can be easily conceived by those skilled in the art within the technical scope disclosed in the present invention fall within the protection and disclosure scope of the present invention.
Claims
1. A wool napped fabric, characterized in that, The wool napped fabric is obtained by double-sided napping. One side of the double-sided fabric is a flat side, and the other side is a loop side. The loop side is napped to obtain a raised side. The terry cloth surface is made of nylon 66DTY and shrink-resistant wool tightly spun, and the terry cloth surface has a terry cloth structure, which is a shrink-resistant wool tightly spun. The flat surface is woven from nylon-covered Lycra core-spun yarn.
2. The wool napped fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The nylon 66DTY includes 30D / 34F nylon 66DTY; Preferably, the shrink-resistant wool compact yarn comprises 72N / 1 shrink-resistant wool compact yarn; Preferably, the nylon-wrapped Lycra core-spun yarn comprises 70D nylon-wrapped 40D Lycra core-spun yarn.
3. The wool napped fabric according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that, The double-sided fabric is woven using a double-sided knitting machine; Preferably, the double-sided knitting machine includes a 30-inch 28-needle double-sided knitting machine; Preferably, the basis weight of the double-sided fabric is 200-330 g / m². 2 ; Preferably, the width of the double-sided fabric is 150-170cm.
4. The wool napped fabric according to any one of claims 1-3, characterized in that, The double-sided fabric is arranged in a triangular pattern, with six rows forming a cycle. The yarn is as follows: rows ① and ④ are nylon 66DTY, rows ② and ⑤ are nylon Lycra core-spun yarn, and rows ③ and ⑥ are shrink-resistant wool compact yarn. Preferably, the 50N wires of the first and fourth paths are 8-10cm long; Preferably, the 50N wire length of the second and fifth paths is 12-14cm; Preferably, the 50N wire length of the third and sixth paths is 9-11cm.
5. A method for preparing a wool napped fabric as described in any one of claims 1-4, characterized in that, The preparation method includes the following steps: Double-sided fabric is made by double-sided weaving using nylon 66DTY, shrink-resistant wool compact spinning and nylon-lycra-wrapped core-spun yarn; The double-sided fabric is subjected to pre-shrinking, opening, pre-shaping, dyeing, drying, auxiliary setting, napping, shearing and final setting in sequence to obtain wool napped fabric.
6. The preparation method according to claim 5, characterized in that, The pre-shrinking includes a first pre-shrinking, a second pre-shrinking, and a third pre-shrinking performed sequentially. Preferably, the temperature of the first pre-shrinking is 80-100℃; Preferably, the first pre-shrinking time is 10-30 minutes; Preferably, the temperature of the second pre-shrinking is 50-70°C; Preferably, the second pre-shrinking time is 5-15 minutes; Preferably, the temperature of the third pre-shrinking is 30-50°C; Preferably, the third pre-shrinking time is 5-15 minutes; Preferably, the predetermined temperature is 190-195°C; Preferably, the predetermined vehicle speed is 10-20 m / min; Preferably, the predetermined overfeed amount is 5-10%.
7. The preparation method according to claim 5 or 6, characterized in that, The drying temperature is 120-140℃; Preferably, the temperature for setting the additive is 130-150℃; Preferably, the speed of the machine for setting the additives is 10-20 m / min; Preferably, the overfeeding amount for the additive shaping is 10-20%.
8. The preparation method according to any one of claims 5-7, characterized in that, The hair-pulling includes a first hair-pulling and a second hair-pulling performed sequentially. Preferably, the first napping includes using a napping machine to nap the looped surface against the nap direction; Preferably, the feeding speed of the first napping process is 10-20 m / min; Preferably, the fabric output speed of the first napping is 1-5 m / min; Preferably, the tension of the first tension roller for roughening is 1-2 CN; Preferably, the speed of the first brushing roller is 150-160 rpm; Preferably, the second napping includes using a napping machine to nap the looped surface against the nap direction; Preferably, the feeding speed of the second napping process is 5-15 m / min; Preferably, the fabric output speed of the second napping process is 1-5 m / min; Preferably, the tension of the second tension roller for texturing is 0.5-1.5 CN; Preferably, the speed of the second brushing roller is 150-160 rpm.
9. The preparation method according to any one of claims 5-8, characterized in that, The shearing includes using a shearing machine to shear the looped surface in the direction of the hair; Preferably, the fabric feeding speed during shearing is 2-15 m / min; Preferably, the fabric output speed during shearing is 2-5 m / min; Preferably, the shearing speed is 1000-1200 rpm; Preferably, the brush speed for shearing is 40-60 rpm; Preferably, the height of the trimmed hair is 1-2 mm.
10. The preparation method according to any one of claims 5-9, characterized in that, The final shaping temperature is 150-160℃; Preferably, the finalized vehicle speed is 10-30 m / min; Preferably, the final overfeed amount is 5-20%.