W / o composition comprising polar and non-polar waxes

Abstract

This invention relates to a composition comprising: (a) a continuous aliphatic phase comprising (a-1) at least one oil, (a-2-1-1) at least one nonpolar wax having a melting point of 85°C or higher, (a-2-1-2) at least one nonpolar wax having a melting point below 85°C, and (a-2-2) at least one polar wax; and (b) a plurality of dispersed aqueous phases comprising (b-1) water, wherein the amount of (a-2-1-1) (one or more) nonpolar waxes having a melting point of 85°C or higher is, relative to the total weight of the composition, is The proportions are 6% to 17% by weight, 8% to 16% by weight, and more preferably 10% to 15% by weight, and (2) the weight ratio of the amount of non-polar wax with a melting point of 85°C or higher in (a-2-1-1) to the total amount of non-polar wax with a melting point of 85°C or higher in (a-2-1-1) and non-polar wax with a melting point below 85°C in (a-2-1-2) and polar wax in (a-2-2) is 0.4 or higher, preferably 0.5 or higher, and more preferably 0.6 or higher. The compositions according to the invention provide a comfortable feel, good cosmetic effects, and good applicability.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to compositions suitable for keratin substances, preferably cosmetic compositions, more preferably cosmetic compositions, especially lipsticks. Background Technology

[0002] Generally, when cosmetic products, especially lip products (such as lipsticks or lip glosses), are applied to keratinous substances such as the lips, it is preferable that the cosmetic product provides a comfortable feel and good makeup effect on the keratinous substance during and after use.

[0003] WO 2018 / 115328 discloses a lipstick in the form of a solid emulsion, comprising a continuous fatty phase and a dispersed aqueous phase. This lipstick provides a refreshing feel upon application and hydrates the lips. Summary of the Invention

[0004] The object of this invention is to provide a composition that can provide comfort, good cosmetic effect and good applicability.

[0005] The above objective can be achieved by a composition comprising: (a) A continuous fatty phase, said continuous fatty phase comprising (a-1) At least one oil, (a-2-1-1) At least one nonpolar wax having a melting point of 85°C or higher, (a-2-1-2) At least one nonpolar wax having a melting point below 85°C, and (a-2-2) At least one polar wax; as well as (b) Multiple dispersed aqueous phases, said aqueous phases comprising (b-1) Water, in (1) The amount of the (a-2-1-1) (one or more) nonpolar wax is 6% to 17% by weight, 8% to 16% by weight, and more preferably 10% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. (2) The weight ratio of the amount of non-polar wax with a melting point of 85°C or higher in (a-2-1-1) (one or more) to the total amount of non-polar wax with a melting point of 85°C or higher in (a-2-1-1) (one or more), non-polar wax with a melting point of less than 85°C in (a-2-1-2) (one or more), and polar wax in (a-2-2) (one or more) is 0.4 or higher, preferably 0.5 or higher, and more preferably 0.6 or higher.

[0006] (a) Oil can be selected from (a-1-1) Volatile oil, preferably volatile non-polar oil, and more preferably volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil; (a-1-2) Non-volatile oil, preferably non-volatile non-polar oil, and more preferably non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil; and Its mixture.

[0007] In the composition according to the invention, the amount of the (a-1) (one or more) oils may be from 15% to 45% by weight, preferably from 20% to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 25% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0008] The non-polar wax with a melting point of 85°C or higher in (a-2-1-1) can be selected from non-polar hydrocarbon waxes, preferably polyolefin waxes, and more preferably polyethylene waxes, microcrystalline waxes, synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof.

[0009] The (a-2-2) polar wax may be selected from polar ester waxes, preferably polar ester waxes derived from plants, and more preferably sunflower seed wax, jojoba ester, acacia decrrens flower wax, and mixtures thereof.

[0010] In the composition according to the invention, the amount of the (one or more) (a-2-2) polar wax may be less than 15% by weight, preferably less than 12% by weight, and more preferably less than 9% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0011] The (a) aliphatic phase may further comprise (a-3) at least one indene resin, preferably selected from hydrogenated styrene / methylstyrene / indene copolymer.

[0012] The amount of (a-3) (one or more) indene resin in the composition according to the invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0013] (a) The fatty phase may further include (a-4) at least one film-forming polymer.

[0014] The amount of (a-4) (one or more) film-forming polymers in the composition according to the invention may be from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0015] (b) The aqueous phase may also contain (b-2) at least one hydrophilic thickener.

[0016] The amount of (b-2) (one or more) hydrophilic thickener in the composition according to the invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0017] The composition according to the invention may further comprise (c) at least one colorant.

[0018] The compositions according to the present invention can be cosmetic compositions, preferably cosmetic compositions, and more preferably lipsticks.

[0019] If (a-2) wax is crystallizable, shear stress may have already been applied to the composition at the crystallization temperature of (a-2) wax. The crystallization temperature can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC).

[0020] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for applying keratin substances to makeup, comprising the following steps: The composition according to the invention is applied to keratin material.

[0021] Best mode for carrying out the present invention Through diligent research, the inventors have discovered a composition that can provide comfort, good cosmetic effects, and good applicability.

[0022] Therefore, the composition according to the present invention is a composition comprising: (a) A continuous fatty phase, said continuous fatty phase comprising (a-1) At least one oil, (a-2-1-1) At least one nonpolar wax having a melting point of 85°C or higher, (a-2-1-2) At least one nonpolar wax having a melting point below 85°C, and (a-2-2) At least one polar wax; as well as (b) Multiple dispersed aqueous phases, said aqueous phases comprising (b-1) Water, in (1) The amount of the (a-2-1-1) (one or more) nonpolar wax is 6% to 17% by weight, 8% to 16% by weight, and more preferably 10% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. (2) The weight ratio of the amount of non-polar wax with a melting point of 85°C or higher in (a-2-1-1) (one or more) to the total amount of non-polar wax with a melting point of 85°C or higher in (a-2-1-1) (one or more), non-polar wax with a melting point of less than 85°C in (a-2-1-2) (one or more) and polar wax in (a-2-2) is 0.4 or higher, preferably 0.5 or higher, and more preferably 0.6 or higher.

[0023] The compositions according to the invention can provide a comfortable feeling during use. For example, they can provide a smooth, gliding feel and a melting sensation.

[0024] Furthermore, the compositions according to the invention can provide good cosmetic effects, such as even coloring. Therefore, the compositions according to the invention can provide good cosmetic results after use.

[0025] Furthermore, the compositions according to the invention can have suitable hardness. Therefore, the compositions according to the invention can provide an appropriate amount of deposit to keratinous materials, such as the lips. Therefore, the compositions according to the invention provide good applicability.

[0026] In addition, if the composition according to the invention is in rod form, the rod can have sufficient strength to prevent it from breaking when applied to keratinous materials such as the lips.

[0027] The compositions according to the present invention are suitable for lipsticks.

[0028] Since the composition according to the invention contains (b-1) water, the composition according to the invention can provide a refreshing feeling when used and moisturize keratin substances such as lips.

[0029] The compositions and methods according to the present invention will be described in detail below.

[0030] [Composition] The composition according to the present invention is a composition comprising: (a) A continuous fatty phase, said continuous fatty phase comprising (a-1) At least one oil, (a-2-1-1) At least one nonpolar wax having a melting point of 85°C or higher, (a-2-1-2) At least one nonpolar wax having a melting point below 85°C, and (a-2-2) At least one polar wax; as well as (b) Multiple dispersed aqueous phases, said aqueous phases comprising (b-1) Water, in (1) The amount of the (a-2-1-1) (one or more) nonpolar wax is 6% to 17% by weight, 8% to 16% by weight, and more preferably 10% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. (2) The weight ratio of the amount of non-polar wax with a melting point of 85°C or higher in (a-2-1-1) (one or more) to the total amount of non-polar wax with a melting point of 85°C or higher in (a-2-1-1) (one or more), non-polar wax with a melting point below 85°C in (a-2-1-2) (one or more), and polar wax in (a-2-2) (one or more) is 0.4 or higher, preferably 0.5 or higher, and more preferably 0.6 or higher. In the composition according to the invention, a plurality of said (b) aqueous phases are dispersed in said (a) fatty phase. The (b) aqueous phase is a discontinuous phase, while the (a) fatty phase is a continuous phase. Hereinafter, this configuration may be referred to as "W / O type".

[0031] (Oil) The composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil (a-1). If two or more (a-1) oils are used, they may be the same or different.

[0032] (a-1) The oil may be present in the (a) fatty phase of the composition according to the invention.

[0033] Here, "oil" refers to a fatty compound or substance that is in liquid or paste (non-solid) form at atmospheric pressure (101325 Pa) and room temperature (25°C). Oils, as one or more types, are commonly used in cosmetics and can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0034] (a-1) Oils can be non-polar oils, such as hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, etc.; polar oils, such as vegetable or animal oils and ester or ether oils; or mixtures thereof.

[0035] (a-1) Oils may be selected from oils of plant or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols.

[0036] Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, flaxseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia oil, corn oil, mint oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0037] Examples of animal oils include squalene and squalane.

[0038] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and synthetic triglycerides.

[0039] Ester oils are preferably saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched, and C1-C. 26 Aliphatic monocarboxylic acids or polycarboxylic acids with saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched, C1-C 26 A liquid ester of an aliphatic monohydric or polyhydric alcohol, wherein the total number of carbon atoms in the ester is greater than or equal to 10.

[0040] Preferably, for esters of monohydric alcohols, at least one of the alcohols and acids from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

[0041] Among the monoesters of monobasic acids and monohydric alcohols, ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dioctyl carbonate, alkyl myristate esters (e.g., isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate), isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isonononanoate, isodecanyl neopentanoate, and isostearyl neopentanoate may be mentioned.

[0042] C4-C can also be used 22 Dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C 22 Esters of alcohols, as well as monocarboxylic acids, dicarboxylic acids, or tricarboxylic acids with non-sugar C4-C 26 Esters of dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols.

[0043] Specifically mentioned: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipicate; di-n-propyl adipicate; dioctyl adipicate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipicate; diisostearate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisoceryl citrate; triisostearate; trilactyl glycerol; trioctyl dodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

[0044] As an ester oil, C6-C can be used. 30 And C is preferred. 12 -C 22 Glycoesters and diesters of fatty acids. It is worth recalling that the term "sugar" refers to an oxygen-containing hydrocarbon-based compound containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functionalities, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0045] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, and lactose, and their derivatives, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, such as methyl glucose.

[0046] The glycol esters of fatty acids may be specifically selected from the previously described sugars and straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C. 30 And C is preferred. 12 -C 22 Esters or mixtures of fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0047] The esters according to this variant can also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0048] These esters can be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenic acid ester, decanoate and arachidonic acid ester, or mixtures thereof, such as, in particular, a mixture of oleic palmitate, oleic stearate and palmitic stearate, and pentaerythritol tetraethylhexanoate.

[0049] More specifically, monoesters and diesters are used, and in particular sucrose, glucose or methyl glucose monooleate or dioleate, stearate, behenate, oleic palmitate, linoleate, linolenic acid ester and oleic stearate.

[0050] One example that can be mentioned is a product sold by Amerchol under the name Glucate® DO, which is methyl gluconate dioleate.

[0051] Examples of preferred ester oils include, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyl dodecyl octanoate, isodecanyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate / decanoate, coconut oil alcohol-caprylic / decanoate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dioctyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecanyl oleate, tri(2-ethylhexanoate)glyceryl ester, pentaerythritol tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), and 2-ethylhexyl succinate. Succinate), diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0052] Examples of artificial triglycerides may be mentioned, such as caprylcaprylylglycerides, trimyristic glycerides, tripalmitic glycerides, trilinolenic glycerides, trilauric glycerides, tridecanoic glycerides, tricaprylic glycerides, tricaprylic glycerides, tri(decanoic acid / caprylic acid) glycerides, and tri(decanoic acid / caprylic acid / linolenic acid) glycerides.

[0053] Examples of silicone oils may include, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes, such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydropolysiloxane, etc.; cyclic organopolysiloxanes, such as cyclohexylsiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecylcyclohexylsiloxane, etc.; and mixtures thereof.

[0054] Preferably, the silicone oil is selected from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, particularly liquid polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes containing at least one aryl group.

[0055] These silicone oils can also be organically modified. The organically modified silicones that can be used in this invention are silicone oils as defined above, and whose structure contains one or more organic functional groups linked via hydrocarbon-based groups.

[0056] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0057] When they are volatile, silicones are more particularly selected from those with boiling points between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly selected from: (i) Cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 3 to 7, preferably 4 to 5, silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold by Union Carbide under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 or by Rhodia under the name Silbione® 70045V2, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold by Union Carbide under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 and by Rhodia under the name Silbione® 70045 V5, and dodecylmethylcyclopentasiloxane sold by MomentivePerformance Materials under the name Silsoft 1217, and mixtures thereof. Also mentioned are, for example, dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type cyclic copolymers, such as Silicon Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by Union Carbide, having the following formula: Mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds may also be mentioned, such as a mixture (50 / 50) of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetra(trimethylsilyl)pentaerythritol, and a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsiloxy)neopentane; and (ii) Contains 2 to 9 silicon atoms and has a silicon content of less than or equal to 5 × 10⁻⁶ at 25 °C. -6 Linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes with a viscosity of m² / s. One example is decamethyltetrasiloxane, specifically sold by Toray Silicone under the name SH 200. Silicones belonging to this class are also described in the article "Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics," published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 1976, pp. 27-32, by Todd & Byers. The viscosity of the silicone was measured at 25°C according to Appendix C of ASTM Standard 445.

[0058] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more specifically selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups are particularly noteworthy.

[0059] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be mentioned in a non-limiting manner: - Silbione® oil or Mirasil® oil from the 47 and 70 047 series sold by Rhodia, such as oil 70047 V 500 000; - Oils from the Mirasil® series sold by Rhodia; - Oils from Dow Corning's 200 series, for example, with a viscosity of 60,000 mm. 2 DC200 / s; - Viscasil® oil from General Electric and certain oils from General Electric's SF series (SF96, SF 18).

[0060] Also mentioned are polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups, such as oils from Rhodia's 48 series.

[0061] Among silicones containing aryl groups, polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyl silicone oils, can be mentioned.

[0062] Phenyl silicone oil can be selected from phenyl silicones of the following formula: in, R1 to R 10 C1–C molecules that are independently saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, cyclic, or branched. 30 Based on the hydrocarbon group, C1–C is preferred. 12 Hydrocarbon-based groups, and more preferably C1–C6 hydrocarbon-based groups, particularly methyl, ethyl, propyl, or butyl groups; and m, n, p, and q are independent integers from 0 to 900 (inclusive), preferably from 0 to 500 (inclusive), and more preferably from 0 to 100 (inclusive). The condition is that the sum of n+m+q is not 0.

[0063] Examples that may be mentioned include products sold under the following names: - Silbione® oil from Rhodia's 70 641 series; - Oils from Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series from Rhodia; - Oil from Dow Corning, Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid; - Silicones from Bayer's PK series, such as product PK20; - Certain oils from General Electric's SF series, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

[0064] As a phenyl silicone oil, phenyltrimethylsiloxane (in the above formula, R1 to R...) 10 Methyl groups; p, q, and n = 0; m = 1 are preferred.

[0065] This organically modified liquid silicone may in particular contain poly(ethylene)oxy and / or poly(propylene)oxy groups. Examples of such silicones include KF-6017 from Shin-Etsu and Silwet® L722 and L77 from Union Carbide.

[0066] Hydrocarbon oils can be selected from: - Straight-chain or branched, optionally cyclic C6-C 16Lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoalkanes such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and isodecane; and - Straight-chain or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid alkanes, liquid petrolatum, polydecene, and hydrogenated polyisobutylene such as Parleam® and squalane.

[0067] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils may include, for example, straight-chain or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isodecane, squalane, mineral oils (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum or petrolatum, naphthalene, etc.; hydrogenated polyisobutylene, isoeicosane and decene / butene copolymers; and mixtures thereof.

[0068] The term "fatty" in fatty alcohols refers to alcohols containing a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Therefore, alcohols having four or more, preferably six or more, and more preferably twelve or more carbon atoms are included in the range of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohols can be straight-chain or branched.

[0069] Fatty alcohols can have the structure R-OH, wherein R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, straight-chain and branched groups, and contains 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be selected from C 12 -C 20 Alkyl and C 12 -C2 alkenyl group. R may or may not be substituted by at least one hydroxyl group.

[0070] Examples of fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecyl alcohol, hexyldecyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palm oil alcohol, arachidonic alcohol, mustard alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0071] The preferred fatty alcohol is a saturated fatty alcohol.

[0072] Therefore, fatty alcohols can be selected from straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C chains. 30 Alcohols, preferably straight-chain or branched, saturated C6-C. 30 Alcohols, and more preferably straight-chain or branched, saturated C12 alcohols. 12 -C 20 alcohol.

[0073] The term "saturated fatty alcohol" here refers to an alcohol having a long aliphatic saturated carbon chain. Preferably, saturated fatty alcohols are selected from any straight-chain or branched, saturated C6-C chain. 30 Fatty alcohols. In straight-chain or branched, saturated C6-C... 30 Among fatty alcohols, straight-chain or branched, saturated C4 chains are preferred. 12 -C20 Fatty alcohols. More preferably, any straight-chain or branched, saturated C... 16 -C 20 Fatty alcohols. Branched C 16 -C 20 Fatty alcohols can be used, or even better.

[0074] Examples of saturated fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecyl alcohol, hexyldecyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecyl alcohol, hexyldecyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol) and behenyl alcohol can be used as saturated fatty alcohols.

[0075] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the invention is preferably selected from cetyl alcohol, octyldodecyl alcohol, hexyldecyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0076] Preferably, the (a-1) oil is selected from oils having a molecular weight of less than 600 g / mol.

[0077] Preferably, the (a-1) oil has a low molecular weight, such as less than 600 g / mol, and is selected from those having one or more short hydrocarbon chains (C1-C1). 12 Ester oils (e.g., isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, and ethylhexyl palmitate), silicone oils (e.g., volatile silicones such as cyclohexylsiloxane), hydrocarbon oils (e.g., isododecane, isohexadecane, and squalane), branched and / or unsaturated fatty alcohols (C 12 -C 30 Oils of the ) type, such as octyldodecyl alcohol and oleyl alcohol, and ether oils, such as dioctyl ether.

[0078] Preferably, the oil (a-1) is selected from volatile oils, non-volatile oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0079] In one implementation, the oil (a-1) may be selected from: (a-1-1) Volatile oil, preferably volatile non-polar oil, and more preferably volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil, such as isododecane and isohexadecane; (a-1-2) Non-volatile oil, preferably non-volatile non-polar oil, and more preferably non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil, such as hydrogenated polyisobutylene; and mixtures thereof.

[0080] The amount of (a-1) (one or more) oils in the composition according to the invention may be 15% by weight or more, preferably 20% by weight or more, and more preferably 25% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0081] The amount of (a-1) (one or more) oils in the composition according to the invention may be 45% by weight or less, preferably 40% by weight or less, and more preferably 35% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0082] The amount of (a-1) (one or more) oils in the composition according to the invention may be from 15% to 45% by weight, preferably from 20% to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 25% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0083] Preferably, the composition according to the invention contains a limited amount of silicone oil relative to the total weight of the composition, for example, less than 5% by weight or less, less than 3% by weight or less, and less than 1% by weight or less. More preferably, the composition according to the invention does not contain silicone oil.

[0084] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of silicone oil. In other words, it is particularly preferred that the composition according to the invention does not contain silicone oil.

[0085] (Non-polar wax) The composition according to the invention comprises at least two (a-2-1) nonpolar waxes, namely: (a-2-1-1) at least one non-polar wax having a melting point of 85°C or higher (hereinafter referred to as (a-2-1-1) a non-polar wax with a high melting point), and (a-2-1-2) At least one non-polar wax having a melting point of less than 85°C (hereinafter referred to as (a-2-1-2) non-polar wax with a low melting point).

[0086] (a-2-1) Non-polar waxes may be present in the (a) aliphatic phase of the composition according to the invention.

[0087] Within the meaning of this invention, the term "wax" refers to a lipophilic compound that is solid at ambient temperature (25°C), has a reversible solid / liquid state change, and has a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C.

[0088] The melting point of wax here refers to the temperature at which the entire wax melts.

[0089] Preferably, (a-2-1-1) is a non-polar wax with a high melting point having a melting point of 85°C to 130°C, more preferably 85°C to 125°C, and even more preferably 85°C to 120°C.

[0090] Preferably, (a-2-1-2) is a non-polar wax with a low melting point having a melting point of 35°C to 80°C, more preferably 40°C to 75°C, and even more preferably 45°C to 70°C.

[0091] (a-2-1) Nonpolar waxes can be crystalline, and therefore, (a-2-1) nonpolar waxes can form crystals at a crystallization temperature. Thus, crystallization of (a-2-1) nonpolar waxes can begin at a crystallization temperature. The crystallization temperature can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the one sold by Mettler under the name DSC 30.

[0092] Within the meaning of this invention, the term "nonpolar" wax refers to a wax with a solubility parameter δ at 25°C as defined below. a Equal to 0 (J / cm) 3 ) 1 / 2 Wax.

[0093] The definition and calculation of solubility parameters in the Hansen three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article "The three-dimensional solubility parameters" by C.M. Hansen, J. Paint Technol., 39, 105 (1967).

[0094] According to this Hansen space: - δ D Characterizes the London dispersion force derived from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular collisions; -δ p Characterizes the Debye interaction between permanent dipoles and the Keesom interaction between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles; -δ h Characterizing specific interaction forces (e.g., acid / base, donor / acceptor, hydrogen bonds, etc.); and -δ a It is derived from the equation: δ a =(δ p 2 + δ h 2 ) 1 / 2 Sure.

[0095] Parameter δ p δ h δ D and δ a With (J / cm) 3 ) 1 / 2 express.

[0096] The (a-2-1) nonpolar wax (whether the nonpolar wax has a high melting point or a low melting point) can be of plant, mineral, animal or synthetic origin.

[0097] The (a-2-1) nonpolar wax can be selected in particular from hydrocarbon waxes that consist only of carbon and hydrogen atoms and do not contain heteroatoms such as N, O, Si and P.

[0098] As examples of the nonpolar waxes described in (a-2-1), hydrocarbon waxes, such as polyolefin waxes, such as polyethylene wax and polypropylene wax, microcrystalline waxes, synthetic waxes, paraffin waxes and ceresin waxes, may be mentioned.

[0099] The (a-2-1-1) high-melting-point nonpolar wax can be selected from nonpolar hydrocarbon waxes, preferably polyolefin waxes, and more preferably polyethylene waxes, microcrystalline waxes, synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof.

[0100] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polyethylene wax. Possible polyethylene waxes include Asensa® SC 211 sold by Honeywell and Performalene 500-L and Performalene 400 polyethylene sold by New Phase Technologies.

[0101] Polyethylene wax can be in powder form. As an example of such powdered wax, polyethylene microwax can be mentioned, such as those sold by the company Micro Powers under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S®.

[0102] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one microcrystalline wax. Examples of usable microcrystalline waxes include Multiwax W 445® sold by Sonneborn, Inc., and Microwax HW® and Base Wax 30540® sold by Paramelt, Inc.

[0103] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one synthetic wax. The synthetic wax can be obtained by the Fischer-Tropsch method. Therefore, the synthetic wax can be a Fischer-Tropsch wax. As an example of a synthetic wax, CireWax 90 from DKSH Corporation of Japan can be mentioned.

[0104] (a-2-1-2) The non-polar wax with a low melting point may be selected from non-polar hydrocarbon waxes, preferably polyolefin waxes, and more preferably paraffin wax, ceresin wax and mixtures thereof.

[0105] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one paraffin. Typically, paraffin is made from C... 16 -C 40 Hydrocarbons, preferably straight-chain C 16 -C 40 Hydrocarbons, and more preferably straight-chain C20 -C 40 Hydrocarbon composition. The molecular weight of paraffin can range from 300 to 550.

[0106] As for the wax, the material sold under the name Ozokerite Wax Pastilles SP 1021 P can be mentioned.

[0107] In the composition according to the invention, (a-2-1-1) (one or more) has a non-polar wax with a melting point of 85°C or higher in an amount of 6% by weight or more, preferably 8% by weight or more, and more preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0108] In the composition according to the invention, (a-2-1-1) (one or more) has a nonpolar wax with a melting point of 85°C or higher in an amount of 17% by weight or less, preferably 16% by weight or less, and more preferably 15% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0109] In the composition according to the invention, (a-2-1-1) (one or more) has a non-polar wax with a melting point of 85°C or higher in an amount of 6% to 17% by weight, preferably 8% to 16% by weight, and more preferably 10% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0110] In the composition according to the invention, (a-2-1-2) (one or more) has a non-polar wax with a melting point below 85°C in an amount of 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0111] In the composition according to the invention, the amount of non-polar wax with a melting point below 85°C in (a-2-1-2) (one or more) may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0112] In the composition according to the invention, the amount of non-polar wax with a melting point below 85°C in (a-2-1-2) (one or more) may be from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0113] The weight ratio of the amount of (a-2-1-1) (one or more) of non-polar wax with a melting point of 85°C or higher to the total amount of (a-2-1-1) (one or more) of non-polar wax with a melting point of 85°C or higher, (a-2-1-2) (one or more) of non-polar wax with a melting point of less than 85°C, and (a-2-2) (one or more) of polar wax as explained below in the composition according to the invention is 0.4 or higher, preferably 0.5 or higher, and more preferably 0.6 or higher.

[0114] (Polar wax) The composition according to the invention comprises at least one (a-2-2) polar wax. If two or more (a-2-2) polar waxes are used, they may be the same or different.

[0115] (a-2-2) Polar waxes may be present in the (a) aliphatic phase of the composition according to the invention.

[0116] Within the meaning of this invention, the term "wax" is understood to refer to a lipophilic compound that is solid at ambient temperature (25°C), has a reversible solid / liquid phase change, and has a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C.

[0117] The melting point of wax here refers to the temperature at which the entire wax melts.

[0118] In particular, (a-2-2) polar wax may have a melting point of 50°C to 120°C, preferably 60°C to 110°C, and more preferably 70°C to 100°C.

[0119] (a-2-2) Polar waxes can be crystallized, and therefore (a-2-2) polar waxes can form crystals at a crystallization temperature. Thus, crystallization of (a-2-2) polar waxes can begin at a crystallization temperature. The crystallization temperature can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the one sold by Mettler under the name DSC 30.

[0120] (a-2-2) Polar waxes can be of plant, mineral, animal or synthetic origin.

[0121] Preferably, the (a-2-2) polar wax has a chemical structure that is essentially formed of carbon and hydrogen atoms or even composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and contains at least one highly electronegative heteroatom, such as oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus atom.

[0122] Within the meaning of this invention, the term "polar wax" refers to a wax with a solubility parameter δ at 25°C. a It is not 0 (J / cm) 3 ) 1 / 2 Wax.

[0123] The definition and calculation of solubility parameters in the Hansen three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article "The three-dimensional solubility parameters" by C.M. Hansen, J. Paint Technol., 39, 105 (1967).

[0124] According to this Hansen space: - δ D Characterizes the London dispersion force derived from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular collisions; -δ p Characterizes the Debye interaction between permanent dipoles and the Keesom interaction between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles; -δ h Characterizing specific interaction forces (e.g., acid / base, donor / acceptor, hydrogen bonds, etc.); and -δ a It is derived from the equation: δ a =(δ p 2 + δ h 2 ) 1 / 2 Sure.

[0125] Parameter δ p δ h δ D and δ a With (J / cm) 3 ) 1 / 2 express.

[0126] (a-2-2) Polar waxes can be, in particular, hydrocarbon waxes, fluorinated waxes, or silicone waxes. The term "hydrocarbon wax" refers to a wax that is essentially formed or even composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and contains no silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine, and / or amide groups. The term "fluorinated wax" refers to a wax containing at least one fluorine atom, particularly containing at least one perfluorinated group. The term "silicone wax" refers to a wax containing at least one silicon atom, particularly containing Si-O groups.

[0127] According to the preferred embodiment, (a-2-2) polar wax is a hydrocarbon wax.

[0128] As polar hydrocarbon waxes, waxes selected from ester waxes and alcohol waxes are particularly preferred.

[0129] According to the present invention, the term "ester wax" is understood to mean a wax containing at least one ester functional group.

[0130] According to the present invention, the term "alcohol wax" refers to a wax containing at least one alcohol functional group, that is, a wax containing at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group.

[0131] The following can be used specifically as ester waxes: - Ester waxes, such as those selected from the following: i) A wax of formula R1COOR2, wherein R1 and R2 represent straight-chain, branched-chain, or cyclic aliphatic chains, with the number of atoms varying from 10 to 50, and may contain heteroatoms such as O, N, or P, and its melting point varies from 25°C to 120°C. In particular, stearic acid C can be used. 20 -C 40 Alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) esters (the alkyl group contains 20 to 40 carbon atoms) (alone or as a mixture) or stearic acid C 20 -C 40 Alkyl esters are used as ester waxes. Such waxes are especially sold by Koster Keunen under the names Kester Wax K82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®, Kester Wax K 80 P®, or Kester Wax K82H.

[0132] Ethylene glycol and butanediol linoleate (octacosanate) can also be used, such as Clariant's wax Licowax KPS Flakes (INCI name: ethylene glycol linoleate).

[0133] ii) Bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate sold by Heterene under the name Hest 2T-4S®.

[0134] iii) General formula R 3 -(-OCO-R 4 -COO-R 5 Dicarboxylic acid diester wax, wherein R 3 and R 5 Whether they are the same or different, it is preferred that they are the same and represent C4-C. 30 Alkyl groups (alkyl groups containing 4 to 30 carbon atoms) and R 4 Represents straight or branched C4-C 30 Aliphatic groups (alkyl groups comprising 4 to 30 carbon atoms), which may or may not contain one or more unsaturated groups. Preferably C4-C. 30 Aliphatic groups are straight-chain and unsaturated.

[0135] iv) It can also be mentioned that C8-C has a straight chain or a branched chain. 32Waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of fatty chain animal or vegetable oils, such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, and waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as Phytowax Ricin 16L64 produced by Sophim. ® and 22L73 ® Those sold under the name Phytowax Olive 18 L 57 are described in patent application FR-A-2792190. Those sold under the name Phytowax Olive 18 L 57 are mentioned as waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol.

[0136] v) may also refer to beeswax, synthetic beeswax, polyglycerolized beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, oxypropylidene lanolin wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange wax, laurel wax, and hydrogenated jojoba wax.

[0137] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a plant-derived polar wax, such as jojoba ester, sunflower seed wax, and acacia decurrens flower wax.

[0138] According to another implementation, (a-2-2) the polar wax can be an alcohol wax.

[0139] Alcohols that may be mentioned include, for example, Performacol 550-L Alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and cetyl alcohol from New Phase Technologies.

[0140] (a-2-2) The polar wax may be a silicone wax, such as siliconeized beeswax. However, according to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not contain any silicone wax.

[0141] In particular, the (a-2-2) polar wax may be selected from polar ester waxes, preferably polar ester waxes derived from plants, and more preferably jojoba ester, sunflower seed wax, acacia flower wax, and mixtures thereof.

[0142] The amount of polar wax (a-2-2) (one or more) in the composition according to the invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0143] In the composition according to the invention, the amount of polar wax (a-2-2) (one or more) is less than 15% by weight or less, preferably less than 12% by weight or less, and more preferably less than 9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0144] The amount of polar wax (a-2-2) (one or more) in the composition according to the invention is from 0.01% by weight to less than 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to less than 12% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% by weight to less than 9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0145] (Indene resin) The compositions according to the invention may contain at least one (a-3) indene resin. If two or more (a-3) indene resins are used, they may be the same or different.

[0146] (a-3) Indene resin can exist in (a) the aliphatic phase.

[0147] (a-3) Indene resin can be used as a lipophilic thickener.

[0148] According to the present invention, the "lipophilic thickener" can be used at ambient temperature (25°C), atmospheric pressure, and at a shear rate of 1 s. -1 The viscosity of the introduced (a) aliphatic phase is increased by at least 20 cP, preferably by at least 50 cP (this viscosity can be determined using a cone / plate viscometer, a Haake R600 rheometer or the like).

[0149] Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based resin has a number average molecular weight of less than or equal to 10,000 g / mol, especially 250 to 5,000 g / mol, and still more preferably less than or equal to 2,000 g / mol, especially 250 to 2,000 g / mol.

[0150] Number average molecular weight (Mn) was determined by gel permeation liquid chromatography (THF solvent, calibration curve established with linear polystyrene standards, refractive detector).

[0151] (a-3) Indene resin refers to a resin derived from at least indene. (a-3) Indene resin may be a homopolymer of indene, or a copolymer of indene and any other optional comonomer. Preferably, the comonomer is selected from polymerizable hydrocarbons, and more preferably hydrocarbons having at least one carbon-carbon double bond.

[0152] For the purposes of this invention, the term "polymer" refers to a repeating compound corresponding to one or more units (these units are derived from compounds called monomers). This or these units are repeated at least twice, preferably at least three times.

[0153] (a-3) Indene resin may be selected from indene-based hydrocarbon resins.

[0154] Indene-based resins can be derived from the polymerization of a predominantly indene monomer and a minor proportion of hydrocarbon-based monomers, selected from styrene, methylindene, and methylstyrene, and mixtures thereof. These resins can optionally be hydrogenated. These resins can have a molecular weight of 290 to 1150 g / mol. Examples of indene resins that may be mentioned include those sold by Exxon Chem. under the name Escorez 7105, by Neville Chem. under the names Nevchem 100 and Nevex 100, by Sartomer under the name Norsolene S105, by Hercules under the name Picco 6100, and by Resinall Corp. under the name Resinall, or hydrogenated styrene / methylstyrene / indene copolymers sold by Eastman Chemical under the name "Regalite," particularly Regalite R1100, Regalite R1090, Regalite R7100, Regalite R1010 Hydrocarbon Resin, and Regalite R1125 Hydrocarbon Resin; According to a preferred embodiment, the resin is selected from hydrogenated styrene / methylstyrene / indene copolymer, i.e., a hydrogenated copolymer of styrene, methylstyrene and indene.

[0155] In particular, hydrogenated styrene / methylstyrene / indene copolymers can be used, such as those marketed by Eastman Chemical under the name Regalite, such as Regalite R1100, Regalite R1090, Regalite R7100, Regalite R1010 Hydrocarbon Resin and Regalite R1125 Hydrocarbon Resin.

[0156] In the composition according to the invention, the amount of (a-3) (one or more) indene resin may be 0.01% by weight or higher relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 0.05% by weight or higher, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or higher.

[0157] In the composition according to the invention, the amount of (a-3) (one or more) indene resin may be 15% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less.

[0158] The amount of (a-3) (one or more) indene resin in the composition according to the invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0159] (Film-forming polymer) The compositions according to the invention may contain at least one film-forming polymer (a-4). If two or more film-forming polymers (a-4) are used, they may be the same or different.

[0160] (a-4) film-forming polymers are different from (a-3) indene resins.

[0161] (a-4) The film-forming polymer can be lipophilic and can exist in the (a) fatty phase.

[0162] For the purposes of this invention, the term "polymer" refers to a repeating compound corresponding to one or more units (these units are derived from compounds called monomers). This or these units are repeated at least twice, and preferably at least three times.

[0163] The term "film-forming polymer" refers to a polymer capable of forming, either alone or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a macroscopically continuous film, preferably a cohesive film, that adheres to a support (particularly a keratin material), and even better, whose cohesive and mechanical properties allow the film to be separable and separably operable (e.g., when the film is prepared by casting onto a non-adhesive surface, such as a Teflon-coated or silicone-coated surface).

[0164] According to one embodiment of the present invention, (a-4) the film-forming polymer may be selected from: - Film-forming polymers that are soluble in organic solvent media, especially lipophilic polymers; this means that the polymer is soluble or miscible in organic media and will form a single homogeneous phase when incorporated into the media; - Film-forming polymers that are dispersible in organic solvent media; this means that the polymer forms an insoluble phase in the organic medium, and that the polymer remains stable and / or compatible once incorporated into the medium. Specifically, such polymers can be in the form of non-aqueous dispersions of polymer particles, preferably in silicone-based or hydrocarbon-based oils; in one embodiment, the non-aqueous dispersion of the polymer comprises polymer particles stabilized on their surface by at least one stabilizer; these non-aqueous dispersions are commonly referred to as "NADs"; and - A film-forming polymer in the form of an aqueous dispersion of polymer particles; this means that the polymer forms an insoluble phase in water, remains stable and / or compatible once incorporated into water, and the polymer particles are stable on their surfaces having at least one stabilizer. These polymer particles are often referred to as "lattice"; in this case, the composition must contain an aqueous phase.

[0165] Preferably, the film-forming polymer (a-4) is selected from polyamide-silicone block polymers, block olefin polymers, vinyl polymers containing at least one carboxiloxane dendritic polymer derivative, copolymers containing carboxylic acid ester groups and polydimethylsiloxane groups, silicone resins, lipid-dispersible polymers in the form of non-aqueous dispersions of polymer particles, olefin copolymers selected from amorphous olefin copolymers and olefin copolymers having controllable and moderate crystallinity, hydrocarbon-based resins having a number average molecular weight of less than or equal to 10,000 g / ml, and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from silicone resins.

[0166] (a-4) The film-forming polymer can be any silicone resin with film-forming properties.

[0167] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the film-forming polymer (a-4) may be selected from silsesquioxanes, silyloxysilicates, and resins obtained by hydroxysilylation.

[0168] The nomenclature for silicone resins is known in the art as the "MDTQ" designation, which describes silicone resins based on the individual repeating siloxane monomer moieties that constitute the polymer. The letters in "MDTQ" correspond to different types of moieties.

[0169] The symbol "M" corresponds to the monofunctional moiety (CH3)3SiO 1 / 2 This part is considered monofunctional because silicon atoms share only one oxygen atom to form a chain. The "M" part can be represented by the following structure: At least one methyl group can be replaced to produce, for example, a moiety having the following formula: [R(CH3)2]SiO 1 / 2 For example, it can be represented by the following structure: Where R is a non-methyl group.

[0170] The symbol "D" corresponds to the difunctional part (CH3)SiO 2 / 2In order to form polymer chains, two available bonds on the silicon atoms are used for bonding with oxygen. The "D" portion, which is an essential component of dimethicone oil, can be represented by the following formula: .

[0171] The symbol "T" corresponds to the trifunctional part (CH3)SiO 3 / 2 In order to form polymer chains, three available bonds on the silicon atoms are used to bond with oxygen. The "T" portion can be represented by the following structure: .

[0172] For example, in the “M” part, any methyl group can be replaced by a non-methyl R group in the “D” or “T” part.

[0173] Finally, the symbol "Q" corresponds to the four functional parts of SiO. 4 / 2 In order to form polymer chains, all four available bonds on the silicon atom are used for bonding with oxygen. The "Q" portion can be represented by the following structure: .

[0174] As described above, in one embodiment of the invention, the (a-4) film-forming polymer may be selected from silyloxysilicates, silsesquioxanes, and resins obtained by hydroxysililation. Any silyloxysilicate, silsesquioxane, or resin obtained by hydroxysililation (which is used as the film-forming polymer) may be used in the compositions of the invention. Preferably, the (a-4) film-forming polymer, such as a silicone resin, is crosslinked.

[0175] According to one embodiment of the invention, the film-forming polymer (a-4) may be selected from substituted silyloxysilicates, silsesquioxanes, and resins obtained by hydroxysilylation. The substituted silyloxysilicates or substituted silsesquioxanes may, for example, be silyloxysilicates or silsesquioxanes in which the methyl group has been replaced by a longer carbon chain, such as an ethane, propane, or butane chain. The carbon chain may be saturated or unsaturated.

[0176] According to one embodiment of the invention, (a-4) the film-forming polymer may be selected from siloxysilicates, such as MQ resin represented by the following formula: [(CH3)3SiO 1 / 2 ] x (SiO 4 / 2 ) y (MQ part) x and y can have values ​​from 20 to 100, preferably from 50 to 80.

[0177] According to another embodiment of the invention, the siloxysilicate can be selected from all combinations of the M and Q portions, for example, [(R)3Si]. x (SiO 4 / 2 ) y , where R is selected from methyl groups and longer carbon chains.

[0178] According to another embodiment of the invention, (a-4) the film-forming polymer can be selected from silsesquioxanes represented by the following formula: (CH3SiO 3 / 2 ) x (Part T) Where x can have values ​​up to several thousand and CH3 can be replaced by R, as described above for the T section.

[0179] Most preferably, the (a-4) film-forming polymer is trimethylsilyloxysilicate, for example, sold by Momentive Performance Materials under the name SR 1000 MQ Resin.

[0180] In the compositions according to the invention, the amount of (a-4) (one or more) film-forming polymers may be 1% by weight or higher relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 3% by weight or higher, and more preferably 5% by weight or higher.

[0181] In the composition according to the invention, the amount of film-forming polymer (a-4) (one or more) may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0182] In the composition according to the invention, the amount of film-forming polymer (a-4) (one or more) may be from 1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight.

[0183] (water) The composition according to the invention comprises (b-1) water.

[0184] (b-1) Water may be present in the aqueous phase (b) of the composition according to the invention.

[0185] In the composition according to the invention, the amount of water (b-1) relative to the total weight of the composition may be 5% by weight or higher, preferably 10% by weight or higher, and more preferably 15% by weight or higher.

[0186] The amount of water (b-1) in the composition according to the invention may be 35% by weight or less, preferably 30% by weight or less, and more preferably 25% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0187] The amount of water (b-1) in the composition according to the invention may be from 5% to 35% by weight, preferably from 10% to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 15% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0188] (Hydrophilic thickener) The composition according to the invention may contain at least one hydrophilic thickener (b-2). If two or more hydrophilic thickeners (b-2) are used, they may be the same or different.

[0189] (b-2) A hydrophilic thickener may be present in the aqueous phase (b) of the composition according to the invention.

[0190] According to the present invention, the "hydrophilic thickener" can be used at ambient temperature (25°C), atmospheric pressure, and at a shear rate of 1 s. -1 The viscosity of the aqueous phase (b) introduced therein is increased by at least 20 cps, preferably by at least 50 cps (this viscosity can be determined using a cone / plate viscometer, a Haake R600 rheometer or the like).

[0191] (b-2) (One or more) hydrophilic thickeners are preferably selected from non-associative thickening polymers carrying sugar units, non-associative thickening polymers without sugar units, associative thickening polymers, and mixtures of these compounds.

[0192] For the purposes of this invention, the term "sugar unit" refers to an oxygen-containing hydrocarbon-based compound containing several alcohol functions, having or not having aldehyde or ketone functions, and containing at least four carbon atoms.

[0193] Sugar units can optionally be modified by substitution and / or by oxidation and / or by dehydration.

[0194] The sugar units that may be included in the composition of the hydrophilic thickening polymer of the present invention are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, dehydrated galactose, galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, galactose sulfate, dehydrated galactose sulfate, and fructose.

[0195] Examples of non-associative thickening polymers include hyaluronic acid and its salts, such as sodium hyaluronate.

[0196] Non-associative thickening polymers that can be specifically mentioned include natural gums, for example: a) Exudates from trees or shrubs, including: - Gum arabic (a branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid). - Indian gum (a polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid); - Coral gum (a polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - Gum tragacanth (a polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose). b) Gels produced from algae, including: - Agar (a polymer derived from galactose and dehydrated galactose); - Alginate (a polymer of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid); - Carrageenan and red algae gum (polymers of galactose sulfate and dehydrated galactose sulfate); c) Gum produced from seeds or tubers, including: - Guar gum (a polymer of mannose and galactose); - Locust bean gum (a polymer of mannose and galactose); - Fenugreek gum (a polymer of mannose and galactose); - Tamarind gum (a polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose); - Konjac gum (a polymer of glucose and mannose); d) Microbial adhesives, including: - Xanthan gum (a polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvate and glucuronic acid); - Gellan gum (a polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose, and glucuronic acid); - Hard dextran gum (glucose polymer); e) Plant extracts, including: - Cellulose (glucose polymer); - Starch (glucose polymer); and -Inulin.

[0197] These polymers can be physically or chemically modified. Temperature is particularly important when considering physical treatments.

[0198] Chemical treatments that may be mentioned include esterification, etherification, amidation, and oxidation. These treatments can result in polymers that are, in particular, nonionic, anionic, or amphoteric.

[0199] Preferably, these chemical or physical treatments are applied to guar gum, locust bean gum, starch, and cellulose.

[0200] The nonionic guar gum that can be used according to the present invention can be modified with C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups.

[0201] Among C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups, examples such as hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl, and hydroxybutyl groups may be mentioned.

[0202] These guar gums are well known in the prior art and can be prepared, for example, by reacting the corresponding epoxide, such as propylene oxide, with guar gum to obtain guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.

[0203] The degree of hydroxyalkylation is preferably between 0.4 and 1.2, and corresponds to the number of epoxide molecules consumed for the number of free hydroxyl functional groups present on the guar gum.

[0204] Such nonionic guar gums, which can be optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups, are sold by Rhodia Chimie under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP120.

[0205] The plant source of the starch molecules used in this invention can be grains or tubers. Therefore, the starch is selected from, for example, corn starch, rice starch, tapioca starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch, and pea starch.

[0206] Starch can be chemically or physically modified, particularly through one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation, and heat treatment.

[0207] Distarch phosphate or compounds rich in distarch phosphate will be preferred, such as products sold by Avebe under the names Prejel VA-70-T AGGL (gelled hydroxypropyl cassava distarch phosphate), Prejel TK1 (gelled cassava distarch phosphate), and Prejel 200 (gelled acetyl cassava distarch phosphate), or Structure Zea (gelled corn distarch phosphate) from National Starch.

[0208] According to the present invention, amphoteric starches can also be used, which contain one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The anionic and cationic groups can be attached to the same or different reactive sites of the starch molecule; they are preferably attached to the same reactive site. The anionic group can be of the carboxylic acid, phosphate, or sulfate type, preferably carboxylic acid. The cationic group can be of the primary amine, secondary amine, tertiary amine, or quaternary amine type.

[0209] Starch molecules can be derived from starch of any plant source, particularly such as corn, potato, oats, rice, cassava, sorghum, barley, or wheat. Starch hydrolysates as mentioned above can also be used. Starch is preferably derived from potatoes.

[0210] The non-associative thickening polymer of the present invention may be one that does not contain C in its structure. 10 -C 30 Cellulose-based polymers with fatty chains.

[0211] According to the present invention, the term "cellulose-based polymer" means any polysaccharide compound having in its structure a sequence of glucose residues linked together via β-1,4 bonds; cellulose derivatives, other than unsubstituted cellulose, can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric, or nonionic.

[0212] Therefore, the cellulose polymers that can be used according to the present invention can be selected from unsubstituted cellulose, including those in microcrystalline form, and cellulose ethers.

[0213] Among these cellulose-based polymers, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters, and cellulose ether esters can be distinguished.

[0214] Cellulose esters are inorganic esters of cellulose (cellulose nitrates, cellulose sulfates, cellulose phosphates, etc.), organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, cellulose triacetates, cellulose amide propionates, cellulose acetate butyrate, cellulose acetate propionate, or cellulose acetate trimellitate, etc.), and mixed organic / inorganic esters of cellulose, such as cellulose acetate butyrate sulfate and cellulose acetate propionate sulfate. Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose phthalate and ethyl cellulose sulfate may be mentioned among cellulose ester ethers.

[0215] Without C 10 -C 30Among nonionic cellulose ethers with aliphatic chains, i.e., those that are “non-associated,” can be mentioned (C1-C4)alkyl celluloses, such as methylcellulose and ethylcellulose (e.g., Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical); (poly)hydroxy (C1-C4)alkyl celluloses, such as hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose (e.g., Natrosol 250 HHR from Aqualon), and hydroxypropylcellulose (e.g., Klucel EF from Aqualon); mixed (poly)hydroxy (C1-C4)alkyl-(C1-C4)alkyl celluloses, such as hydroxypropyl methylcellulose (e.g., Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical), hydroxyethyl methylcellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose (e.g., Bermocoll E 481 FQ from Akzo Nobel), and hydroxybutyl methylcellulose.

[0216] Among anionic cellulose ethers that do not have aliphatic chains, (poly)carboxyl (C1-C4) alkyl cellulose and its salts may be mentioned. By way of example, carboxymethyl cellulose, carboxymethyl methyl cellulose (e.g., Blanose 7M from Aquatron), and carboxymethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose and their sodium salts may be mentioned.

[0217] In cationic cellulose ethers that do not have aliphatic chains, references may be made to cationic cellulose derivatives, such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomers, and are particularly described in patent US 4,131,576, such as (poly)hydroxy (C1-C4)alkyl celluloses, such as hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, or hydroxypropyl cellulose grafted particularly with methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, or dimethyl diallyl ammonium salts. Commercial products corresponding to this definition are more specifically those sold by National Starch under the names Celquat L 200® and Celquat H 100®.

[0218] In non-associative thickening polymers without sugar units that can be used according to the invention, reference may be made to crosslinked acrylic or methacrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers, alone or in mixtures thereof, crosslinked 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers and their crosslinked acrylamide copolymers, ammonium acrylate homopolymers or copolymers of ammonium acrylate and acrylamide.

[0219] The first family of non-associative thickening polymers suitable for use are represented by cross-linked acrylic homopolymers.

[0220] Among this type of homopolymer, those crosslinked with sugar-based alkyl alcohol ethers can be mentioned, such as products marketed by Noveon under the names Carbopol 980, 981, 954, 2984, and 5984, or by 3VSA under the names Synthalen M and Synthalen K. These polymers have the INCI name Carbomer.

[0221] Non-associative thickening polymers can also be cross-linked (meth)acrylic acid copolymers, such as the polymer marketed by Noveon under the name Aqua SF1.

[0222] In addition, as a (b-2) hydrophilic thickener, the following can be mentioned: crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid or (meth)acrylate polymers, preferably crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and / or (meth)acrylates, and more preferably crosslinked sodium polyacrylate, such as those sold by Avecia under the names Octacare X100, X110 and RM100, those sold by SNF under the names Flocare GB300 and Flosorb 500, those sold by BASF under the names Luquasorb 1003, Luquasorb 1010, Luquasorb 1280 and Luquasorb 1100, those sold by Grain Processing under the names Water Lock G400 and G430 (INCI name: acrylamide / sodium acrylate copolymer), or Aqua Keep 10 SH NF supplied by Sumitomo Seika, or Aqupec MGN40R supplied by Sumitomo Seika.

[0223] The non-associative thickening polymer can be selected from cross-linked 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers and their cross-linked acrylamide copolymers.

[0224] In the partially or completely neutralized crosslinked copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylamide, the products described in Example 1 of document EP 503 853 may be specifically mentioned, and reference may be made to the document regarding these polymers.

[0225] The composition may similarly contain ammonium acrylate homopolymer or copolymer of ammonium acrylate and acrylamide as a non-associative thickening polymer.

[0226] Among ammonium acrylate homopolymers, the product sold by Hoechst under the name MicrosapPAS 5193 may be mentioned. Among copolymers of ammonium acrylate and acrylamide, the product sold by Hoechst under the name Bozepol C Nouveau or product PAS 5193 may be mentioned. For descriptions and preparations of such compounds, see in particular FR 2 416 723, US 2,798,053 and US 2,923,692.

[0227] Acrylic cationic thickening polymers can also be used.

[0228] Among hydrophilic thickening polymers, associative polymers that are well known to those skilled in the art and, in particular, have nonionic, anionic, cationic, or amphoteric properties may also be mentioned.

[0229] In retrospect, associative polymers are polymers that can reversibly associate with each other or with other molecules in an aqueous medium.

[0230] Their chemical structures are particularly characterized by containing at least one hydrophilic region and at least one hydrophobic region.

[0231] The term "hydrophobic group" refers to a group or polymer having a saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, particularly 12 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably 18 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0232] Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based group is derived from a monofunctional compound. By way of example, the hydrophobic group can be derived from fatty alcohols such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, or decanol. It can also represent hydrocarbon-based polymers, such as polybutadiene.

[0233] Among anionic associative polymers, the following can be mentioned: (a) Those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one aliphatic allyl ether unit, more particularly those whose hydrophilic unit is composed of an olefinically unsaturated anionic monomer, more particularly vinyl carboxylic acid, and most particularly acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof. Among these anionic associative polymers, those particularly preferred according to the invention are polymers formed from 20% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, 5% to 60% by weight of lower alkyl esters of (meth)acrylate, 2% to 50% by weight of aliphatic allyl ether, and 0% to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent, which is a well-known copolymerizable unsaturated polyolefinically unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, or methylenebisacrylamide. Among the latter polymers, the most particularly preferred are cross-linked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate, and polyethylene glycol (10 EO) stearyl ether (stearyl ether-10), especially those marketed by CIBA under the names Salcare SC 80® and Salcare SC 90®, which are 30% aqueous emulsions of cross-linked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate, and stearyl ether-10 allyl ether (40 / 50 / 10); (b) Contains i) at least one hydrophilic unit of the unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type and ii) at least one unsaturated carboxylic acid type (C 10 -C 30 Those alkyl esters with hydrophobic units. The unsaturated carboxylic acids (C) useful in this invention... 10 -C 30 Alkyl esters include, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, and dodecyl acrylate, as well as the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate, and dodecyl methacrylate. For example, this type of anionic polymer is described and prepared according to patents US 3,915,921 and US 4,509,949. More particularly useful in this type of anionic associative polymer is a mixture of 95% to 60% acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit) and 4% to 40% acrylic acid C. 10 -C 30 Those consisting of alkyl esters (hydrophobic units) and 0% to 6% by weight of crosslinked polymerizable monomers, or alternatively consisting of 98% to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic units) and 1% to 4% by weight of acrylic acid C. 10 -C 30Those composed of alkyl esters (hydrophobic units) and 0.1% to 0.6% by weight of crosslinked polymerizable monomers, such as those described above. Of the polymers described above, the most particularly preferred according to the invention are those sold by Goodrich under the trade names Pemulen TR1®, Pemulen TR2®, Carbopol 1382®, and even more preferably Pemulen TR1®, and those sold by SEPPIC under the name Coatex SX®. Also mentioned are acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers sold by ISP under the name Acrylidone LM; (c) Maleic anhydride / C 30 -C 38 α-olefin / alkyl maleate terpolymers, such as the product marketed by Newphase Technologies under the name Performa V 1608® (maleic anhydride / C 30 -C 38 α-olefin / isopropyl maleate copolymer); (d) An acrylic terpolymer comprising: i) Approximately 20% to 70% by weight of α,β-mono-olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acids [A]. ii) Approximately 20% to 80% by weight of α,β-monoolefinic unsaturated non-surfactant monomers other than [A], iii) about 0.5% to 60% by weight of nonionic monourethane, which is the product of the reaction of a monobasic surfactant with a monoolefinic unsaturated monoisocyanate, such as those described in patent application EP-A-0 173 109, and more particularly the terpolymer described in Example 3, namely the methacrylate / methyl acrylate / benzyl behenyl alcohol dimethyl-m-isopropenyl isocyanate ethoxylated (40 EO) terpolymer, as an aqueous 25% dispersion; (e) Copolymers comprising, in their monomers, α,β-mono-unsaturated carboxylic acids and esters of α,β-mono-unsaturated carboxylic acids with oxoalkylene fatty alcohols. Preferably, these compounds also comprise esters of α,β-mono-unsaturated carboxylic acids as monomers with C1-C4 alcohols. Examples of this type of compound that may be mentioned are Aculyn 22®, sold by Röhm & Haas, which is a terpolymer of methacrylate / ethyl acrylate / oxoalkylene stearyl methacrylate; and Aculyn 88, also sold by Röhm & Haas.

[0234] (f) Amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one olefinically unsaturated monomer with a sulfonic acid group in free, partially or completely neutral form and comprising at least one hydrophobic moiety. These polymers may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked. They are preferably crosslinked. The olefinically unsaturated monomer with a sulfonic acid group is particularly selected from vinyl sulfonic acid, styrene sulfonic acid, and (meth)acrylamidoyl (C1-C1) sulfonic acid. 22 )alkyl sulfonic acid, N-(C1-C 22 )alkyl (meth)acrylamide group (C1-C 22 Alkyl sulfonic acids, such as undecylacrylamide methanesulfonic acid, as well as their partially or completely neutralized forms and mixtures thereof.

[0235] A more preferred option is (meth)acrylamide (C1-C) 22 Alkyl sulfonic acids, such as acrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidoethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamido-dodecyl sulfonic acid, or 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulfonic acid, and their partially or completely neutralized forms.

[0236] It will use 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) and its partially or completely neutralized form.

[0237] Polymers of this family, in particular, can be selected from those synthesized by interaction with C6-C. 22 Random amphiphilic AMPS polymers modified by reaction of monoalkylamines or dialkylamines, such as those described in patent application WO 00 / 31154. These polymers may also contain other olefinically unsaturated hydrophilic monomers selected from, for example, (meth)acrylic acid, its β-substituted alkyl derivatives or esters thereof obtained with monohydric alcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamide, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid, or mixtures of these compounds.

[0238] Preferred polymers in this family are selected from amphiphilic copolymers of AMPS and at least one olefinically unsaturated hydrophobic monomer.

[0239] These same copolymers may also contain one or more olefinically unsaturated monomers that do not contain aliphatic chains, such as (meth)acrylic acid, its β-substituted alkyl derivatives or esters thereof obtained with monohydric alcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamide, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid, or mixtures of these compounds.

[0240] These copolymers are particularly described in the following disclosures of patent application EP-A-0750 899, patent US 5,089,578, and Yotaro Morishima: - Self-assembling amphiphilic polyelectrolytes and their nanostructures, Chinese Journal of Polymer Science, Vol. 18, No. 40, (2000), 323-336; - Micelle formation of random copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and a nonionic surfactant macromonomer in water asstudied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering, Macromolecules, Vol. 33, No. 10, (2000), 3694-3704; - Solution properties of micelle networks formed by nonionic moieties covalently bound to a polyelectrolyte: salt effects on rheological behavior - Langmuir, Vol. 16, No. 12, (2000), 5324-5332; - Stimuli responsive amphiphilic copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and associative macromonomers, Polym. Preprint, Div. Polym. Chem., 40(2), (1999), 220-221.

[0241] Among these polymers, the following can be mentioned: - Crosslinked or non-crosslinked, neutralized or unneutralized copolymers comprising 15% to 60% by weight of AMPS units and 40% to 85% by weight of (C8-C) relative to the polymer. 16 )alkyl (meth)acrylamide or (meth)acrylic acid (C8-C 16 )alkyl ester units, such as those described in patent application EP-A750 899; - A ternary polymer comprising 10 mol% to 90 mol% acrylamide units, 0.1 mol% to 10 mol% AMPS units, and 5 mol% to 80 mol% n-(C6-C) 18 Alkyl acrylamide units, such as those described in patent US-5,089,578.

[0242] Also worth mentioning are fully neutralized copolymers of AMPS and dodecyl methacrylate, as well as crosslinked and non-crosslinked copolymers of AMPS and n-dodecylmethylacrylamide, such as those described in the Morishima article mentioned above.

[0243] Among cationic associative polymers, the following can be mentioned: (a) Cationic associated polyurethane; (b) A compound marketed by Noveon Corporation under the name Aqua CC and corresponding to the INCI name Polyacrylate-1 crosspolymer. Polyacrylate-1 crosspolymer is a polymer of a monomer mixture comprising: -Di(C1-C4 alkyl)amino(C1-C6 alkyl)methacrylate, - One or more (meth)acrylic acids, C1-C 30 Alkyl esters - Polyethoxylated methacrylic acid C10 -C 30 Alkyl esters (20-25 mol of ethylene oxide units). -30 / 5 polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol allyl ether -Methacrylate hydroxy (C2-C6 alkyl) ester, and - Ethylene glycol dimethacrylate; (c) Quaternized (poly)hydroxyethyl cellulose modified with a group comprising at least one aliphatic chain (e.g., an alkyl, aralkyl, or alkylaryl group comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or a mixture thereof). The alkyl group of the quaternized cellulose or hydroxyethyl cellulose preferably comprises 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl group preferably represents a phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl, or anthracene group. (Note: C8-C...) 30 Examples of quaternized alkyl hydroxyethyl celluloses in fatty acid chains include Quatrisoft LM 200®, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A®, and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-B® (C) sold by Aqualon. 12 Alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8® (C 18 Alkyl groups), and Crodacel QM® and Crodacel QL® (C) products sold by Croda. 12 Alkyl) and Crodacel QS® (C 18 Alkyl groups and Softcat SL 100®, a product sold by Ashland Corporation.

[0244] (d) Cationic polyvinyl lactam polymer.

[0245] Such polymers are described, for example, in patent application WO-00 / 68282.

[0246] As poly(vinyl lactam) polymers according to the present invention, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / dodecyl dimethylmethacrylamide propyl toluenesulfonate terpolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / cocoyl dimethylmethacrylamide propyl toluenesulfonate terpolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / lauryl dimethylmethacrylamide propyl toluenesulfonate or lauryl dimethylmethacrylamide propyl ammonium chloride terpolymers are particularly used.

[0247] The amphoteric associative polymers are preferably selected from those containing at least one non-cyclic cationic unit. More particularly, those prepared from or containing 1 to 20 mol%, preferably 1.5 to 15 mol%, and even more particularly 1.5 to 6 mol% of aliphatic chain monomers relative to the total moles of monomers are preferred.

[0248] For example, the amphoteric associative polymer according to the present invention is described and prepared in patent application WO 98 / 44012.

[0249] Among the amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention, the preferred ones are acrylic acid / (meth)acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / stearyl methacrylate terpolymers.

[0250] The nonionic associative polymers that can be used according to the present invention are preferably selected from: (a) Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and aliphatic hydrophobic monomers, examples of which may be mentioned include: - Products sold by ISP, namely Antaron V216® or Ganex V216® (vinylpyrrolidone / hexadecene copolymer). - Products sold by ISP, such as Antaron V220® or Ganex V220® (vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene copolymer); (b) A copolymer of C1-C6 alkyl methacrylate or C1-C6 alkyl acrylate and an amphiphilic monomer containing at least one aliphatic chain, such as the oxyethylated methyl acrylate / stearic acid acrylate copolymer sold by Goldschmidt under the name Antil 208®; (c) A copolymer of a hydrophilic methacrylate or acrylate and a hydrophobic monomer containing at least one aliphatic chain, such as polyethylene glycol methacrylate / laurate methacrylate copolymer; (d) Polyurethane polyethers containing both hydrophilic blocks (typically polyoxyethyleneized) and hydrophobic blocks (which may be a single aliphatic sequence and / or alicyclic and / or aromatic sequence) in their chains. (e) A polymer having an amino plastic ether backbone containing at least one aliphatic chain, such as Pure Thix® compounds sold by Sud-Chemie. (f) Cellulose or a derivative thereof, modified with a group comprising at least one aliphatic chain (e.g., alkyl, aralkyl, or alkylaryl groups or mixtures thereof), wherein the alkyl group is C8, and in particular: * Nonionic alkyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, such as Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS and Polysurf 67 (C) sold by Aqualon. 16 alkyl); * Nonionic nonanoyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, such as Amercell HM-1500 sold by Amerchol; * Non-ionic alkyl cellulose, such as Bermocoll EHM 100 sold by Berrol Nobel; (g) Associative guar gum derivatives, such as hydroxypropyl guar gum modified with fatty chains, such as Esaflor HM 22 (using C) sold by Lamberti. 22 Alkyl chain modification); Miracare XC 95-3 (using C) is a product sold by Rhodia Chimie. 14 Alkyl chain modification) and product RE 205-146 (using C 20 Alkyl chain modification).

[0251] Preferably, the polyurethane polyether comprises at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon-based chains containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by hydrophilic blocks. These hydrocarbon-based chains can be side chains or chains at the ends of the hydrophilic blocks. In particular, one or more side chains are contemplated. Furthermore, the polymer may contain hydrocarbon-based chains at one or both ends of the hydrophilic blocks.

[0252] Polyurethane polyethers can be multiblock, particularly triblock. Hydrophobic blocks can be at each end of the chain (e.g., a triblock copolymer with a hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (e.g., a multiblock copolymer). These same polymers can also be graft polymers or star polymers.

[0253] Nonionic aliphatic polyurethane polyethers can be triblock copolymers, where the hydrophilic blocks are polyoxyethylene chains containing 50 to 1000 oxyethylidene groups. The nonionic polyurethane polyether is named for the urethane bonds between the hydrophilic blocks.

[0254] As an extension, nonionic aliphatic chain polyurethane polyethers also include those in which hydrophilic blocks are linked to lipophilic blocks via other chemical bonds.

[0255] As examples of nonionic aliphatic chain polyurethane polyethers that can be used in this invention, urea-functionalized Rheolate 205®, or Rheolate® 208, 204 or 212, sold by Rheox, and Acrysol RM 184® can also be used.

[0256] Also worth mentioning is the one from Akzo company with the C... 12 -C 14 Products with alkyl chains, such as ElfacosT210® and those with C 18 The product is Elfacos T212®, which has an alkyl chain.

[0257] Alternatively, products with C can be sold with a 20% solids content in water. 20 The alkyl chain and urethane bond are from Röhm & Haas product DW 1206B®.

[0258] Solutions or dispersions of these polymers can also be used, particularly in water or in a water-alcohol medium. Examples of such polymers that may be mentioned include Rheolate® 255, Rheolate® 278, and Rheolate® 244, marketed by Rheox. DW 1206F and DW 1206J, marketed by Rohm and Haas, are also available.

[0259] The polyurethane polyethers that can be used according to the present invention are particularly those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci. [Colloid Polymer Science], 271, 380-389 (1993).

[0260] Even more particularly preferred is the use of polyurethane polyethers that can be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds, the at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol containing 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decanol and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.

[0261] Such polyurethane polyethers are particularly marketed by Rohm and Haas under the names Aculyn 46® and Aculyn 44® [Aculyn 46® is a condensation polymer of polyethylene glycol, stearyl alcohol and methylene bis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI) containing 150 or 180 mol ethoxylates in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%) at 15 wt%; Aculyn 44® is a condensation polymer of polyethylene glycol, decanol and methylene bis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI) containing 150 or 180 mol ethoxylates in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%) at 35 wt%].

[0262] The amount of (b-2) (one or more) hydrophilic thickener in the composition according to the invention may be 0.01% by weight or higher, preferably 0.05% by weight or higher, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or higher, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0263] The amount of (b-2) (one or more) hydrophilic thickener in the composition according to the invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0264] The amount of (b-2) (one or more) hydrophilic thickener in the composition according to the invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0265] (Polyols) The compositions according to the invention may contain at least one (b-3) polyol. Two or more different types of (b-3) polyols may be used in combination.

[0266] The term "polyol" here means an alcohol having two or more hydroxyl groups and does not cover sugars or their derivatives. Sugar derivatives include sugar alcohols obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of sugars, as well as sugars or sugar alcohols (where one or more hydrogen atoms in one or more of their hydroxyl groups have been substituted by at least one substituent, such as an alkyl group, hydroxyalkyl group, alkoxy group, acyl group, or carbonyl group).

[0267] The polyols used in this invention are liquid at ambient temperature (e.g., 25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 105 Pa).

[0268] Polyols can be C2-C 24 The polyol, preferably a C2-C9 polyol, contains at least two hydroxyl groups, preferably two to five hydroxyl groups.

[0269] Polyols can be natural or synthetic. Polyols can have straight-chain, branched-chain, or cyclic molecular structures.

[0270] The polyol can be selected from glycerol, glycols, and mixtures thereof. Specifically, the polyol can be selected from glycerol, diglycerol, polyglycerol, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butanediol, pentanediol, hexanediol, and C6-C... 24 Polyethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol and mixtures thereof.

[0271] Preferably, the (b-3) polyol is selected from glycerol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butanediol, pentanediol, hexanediol, and mixtures thereof.

[0272] The amount of (b-3) (one or more) polyols in the composition according to the invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0273] The amount of (b-3) (one or more) polyols in the composition according to the invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0274] The amount of (b-3) (one or more) polyols in the composition according to the invention may be from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0275] (Coloring agent) The composition according to the invention may contain (c) at least one colorant. If two or more (c) colorants are used, they may be the same or different.

[0276] (c) The colorant may be present in (a) the fatty phase or (b) the aqueous phase, depending on the nature of (c) the colorant.

[0277] In one embodiment, (c) the colorant may be selected from dyes, pigments and mixtures thereof.

[0278] In this invention, (c) the colorant may be water-soluble or water-dispersible, or oil-soluble or oil-dispersible, or have limited solubility in water.

[0279] In one embodiment, (c) the colorant may be selected from coloring pigments.

[0280] The term “coloring pigment” should be understood to mean any shape of white or colored inorganic or organic particles that are insoluble and intended to color or stain the skin or lips.

[0281] Pigments can be white or colored, inorganic and / or organic.

[0282] Among the inorganic pigments that can be used, titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and zinc, (black, yellow, or red) iron oxide or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, hydrated chromium and iron blue, or metal powders, such as aluminum powder or copper powder, may be mentioned without limitation. Pigments may also be selected from nano-pigments formed from metal oxides, such as titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide and cerium oxide, and mixtures thereof. The term "nanopigment" is understood to refer to pigments having an average particle size of 1 nm to 500 nm, for example, a particle size of 10 nm to 100 nm.

[0283] Among the organic pigments that can be used, carbon black, D&C type pigments, and lakes, such as lakes based on carmine and barium, strontium, calcium, or aluminum, may be mentioned without limitation. For example, Red 33 (disodium 5-amino-4-hydroxy-3-(phenylazo)-naphthalene-2,7-disulfonic acid) and Red 202 (calcium bis[2-(3-carboxy-2-hydroxynaphthalazo)-5-methylbenzenesulfonate)) can be used as D&C type pigments.

[0284] Organic pigments can also be diketopyrrolopyrrole (DPP), such as those described in EP-A-542669, EP-A-787730, EP-A-787731 and WO-A-96 / 08537.

[0285] Organic pigments can be selected from bio-pigments provided by Biotic Phocea of ​​France, such as BioChromaDerm® or BioChromaEyes®.

[0286] Preferably, the coloring pigment can be selected from metal oxides, such as titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide, cerium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide and chromium oxide; manganese violet; Prussian blue; ultramarine blue; hydrated chromium; iron blue; aluminum powder; copper powder; carbon black; D&C type pigments; lakes; pearlescent pigments; and mixtures thereof.

[0287] The term “pearl pigment” should be understood to mean iridescent particles of any shape, such as particles produced in the shells of certain mollusks or synthesized in other ways.

[0288] Pearlizing agents can be selected from white pearlizing agents, such as mica coated with titanium dioxide or bismuth oxychloride; colored pearlizing agents, such as titanium oxide-coated mica coated with iron oxide, titanium oxide-coated mica coated with iron blue or chromium oxide, or titanium oxide-coated mica coated with organic pigments of the types mentioned above; and bismuth oxychloride-based pearlizing agents.

[0289] Preferably, (c) the colorant is selected from hydrophobic pigments.

[0290] Preferably, the hydrophobic pigment is selected from hydrophobically coated pigments. The term "hydrophobically coated pigment" refers to any pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound. The term "lipophilic compound" refers to any compound that is soluble in or dispersible in oil. The term "hydrophobic compound" refers to any compound that is insoluble in water.

[0291] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the pigment to be coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound is selected from inorganic and organic pigments.

[0292] The hydrophobic pigment may have at least one coating comprising at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound. The lipophilic or hydrophobic coating may be present on the outermost surface of the hydrophobic pigment.

[0293] For the purposes of this invention, "coating" of a pigment generally refers to the surface treatment of the pigment with all or part of a surface treatment agent, which is absorbed, adsorbed, or grafted onto the pigment. Therefore, a hydrophobic pigment can be a surface-treated pigment.

[0294] Surface-treated pigments can be prepared using surface treatment techniques of chemical, electronic, mechanical, or other chemical or mechanical properties known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products can also be used as surface-treated pigments.

[0295] Surface treatment agents can be absorbed, adsorbed, or grafted onto pigments through solvent evaporation, chemical reactions, and the formation of covalent bonds.

[0296] According to one variant, the surface treatment consists of coating pigments.

[0297] The hydrophobic pigment may also have at least one coating comprising at least one non-lipophilic or non-hydrophobic compound, such as at least one hydrophilic compound. For example, the non-lipophilic or non-hydrophobic compound may be selected from metal hydroxides, such as aluminum hydroxide, and metal chlorides, such as magnesium chloride. This non-lipophilic or non-hydrophobic coating may be present between the pigment itself and the lipophilic or hydrophobic coating.

[0298] The coating may account for 0.1% to 20% of the total weight of the coated pigment, and particularly 0.5% to 5% of the total weight of the pigment.

[0299] Coating can be performed, for example, by adsorbing the liquid surface treatment agent onto the surface of the solid pigment particles by simple mixing, optionally under heating, while stirring the particles and the surface treatment agent, before incorporating the particles into the other components of the composition.

[0300] Coating can be performed, for example, through a chemical reaction between the surface treatment agent and the surface of the solid pigment particles, and the formation of covalent bonds between the surface treatment agent and the particles. This method is specifically described in US-B-4,578,266.

[0301] Chemical surface treatment can consist of the following steps: diluting a surface treatment agent in a volatile solvent, dispersing pigments in the mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent, causing the surface treatment agent to deposit on the surface of the pigments.

[0302] According to a specific embodiment of the invention, the pigment may be coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound selected from: silicon-based surface treatment agents; fluorine surface treatment agents; fluorosilicone surface treatment agents; metal soaps; fatty acids; N-acyl amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; monoalkyl triacyl titanates, such as isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; sebacic acid isostearate; natural plant or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.

[0303] More preferably, (c) the colorant is selected from pigments treated with monoalkyl triacyl titanate. In a preferred embodiment, the pigment suitable for use in this invention is treated with a monoalkyl triacyl titanate, for example, by coating or surrounding. A monoalkyl triacyl titanate (also called a monoalkyl titanate) can be represented by the formula RO-Ti-(OR')3, wherein R is an alkyl group and R' is an acyl group that may be the same or different.

[0304] In some embodiments of monoalkyl triacyl titanate, the alkyl group is C10. 1-5 -alkyl, especially C 1-4 – An alkyl group, and the acyl group is derived from acrylic acid or an acrylic acid derivative such as methacrylic acid, or derived from a fatty acid. The acyl group is particularly derived from C… 6-30 Fatty acids, more specifically derived from C 12-24 Fatty acids, and even more specifically derived from C 16-20 Fatty acids. These fatty acids may be decanoic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, hydroxystearic acid, or oleic acid. The acyl groups in these triacyl titanates may be the same or different. A preferred embodiment is monoisopropyltriacyl titanate, see U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 20050019284 (particularly paragraphs

[0038] -

[0052] ).

[0305] According to a preferred embodiment, the monoalkyl triacyl titanate may be isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate (ITT), isopropyl dimethacryloyl isostearoyl titanate, or isopropyl dimethacryloyl isostearoyl titanate.

[0306] Preferably, the monoalkyl triacyl titanate can be isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate (ITT), which can also be called isopropyl titanium triisostearoyl ester.

[0307] Pigments treated with monoalkyl triacyl titanate can be pigments treated with isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate.

[0308] Pigments treated with monoalkyl triacyl titanate are pigments treated with at least monoalkyl triacyl titanate. Pigments treated with monoalkyl triacyl titanate may be treated with monoalkyl triacyl titanate alone, or with monoalkyl triacyl titanate and at least one additional surface treatment agent, such as a fluorinated surface treatment agent or a silicone-based surface treatment agent, such as polydimethylsiloxane and triethoxysilylethyl polydimethylsiloxane.

[0309] For example, a pigment treated with isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate is a pigment treated with at least isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate (ITT). The pigment treated with isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate may be treated with isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate (ITT) alone, or with isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate (ITT) and at least one other surface treatment agent, such as a fluorinated surface treatment agent or a silicone-based surface treatment agent, such as polydimethylsiloxane and triethoxysilylethyl polydimethylsiloxane.

[0310] Pigments treated with isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate may be mentioned, for example by KOBO under the trade names BWYO-12 (iron oxide CI 77492 and isopropyl titanium triisostearoate), BWRO-12 (iron oxide CI 77491 and isopropyl titanium triisostearoate), BWBO-12 (iron oxide CI 77499 and isopropyl titanium triisostearoate), and / or TiO2CR-50 12 (titanium dioxide CI 77891 coated with alumina and isopropyl titanium triisostearoate).

[0311] In the composition according to the invention, the amount of colorant (c) (one or more) may be 1% by weight or higher relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 3% by weight or higher, and more preferably 5% by weight or higher.

[0312] In the composition according to the invention, the amount of colorant (c) (one or more) may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0313] In the composition according to the invention, the amount of colorant (c) (one or more) may be from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0314] (Other optional ingredients) In addition to the aforementioned ingredients, the compositions according to the present invention may contain ingredients commonly used in cosmetics, specifically fillers, cationic, anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants, UV filters, preservatives, etc., to the extent that they do not impair the effects of the present invention.

[0315] The composition according to the invention may contain from 0.001% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, of the above-mentioned optional ingredients relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0316] [preparation] The compositions according to the invention can be prepared by mixing the above-mentioned essential and optional ingredients in a conventional manner.

[0317] The methods and means of mixing the above-mentioned essential and optional components are not limited. Any conventional methods and means can be used to mix the above-mentioned essential and optional components to prepare the composition according to the invention.

[0318] [form] The composition according to the present invention is of the W / O type.

[0319] In the composition according to the invention, a plurality of (b) aqueous phases are dispersed in (a) fatty phases. The (b) aqueous phases are discontinuous phases, while the (a) fatty phases are continuous phases.

[0320] The compositions according to the invention can be in the form of W / O emulsions, especially if the compositions according to the invention include at least one emulsifier, such as a surfactant.

[0321] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a water-in-wax / oil composition, more preferably a water-in-wax / oil emulsion.

[0322] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is in solid form. The term "solid" here means a state in which it is not flowable at atmospheric pressure (101325 Pa) and room temperature (25°C).

[0323] Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a hardness of less than 8.9 g / mm, more preferably less than 8.3 g / mm, and even more preferably less than 7.8 g / mm.

[0324] The hardness of the composition can be evaluated using the "cheese wire" method. This method involves cutting the composition into rods of 9 mm diameter using a metal wire at a speed of 0.16-0.19 cm / s at 20°C, and using a material such as Chatilon from Ametek. TM The hardness is measured using a force measuring machine. The hardness derived from this method can be expressed in grams per mm as the maximum shear force required to cut the rod under the conditions described above.

[0325] In the composition according to the invention, (a) the amount of the fatty phase relative to the total weight of the composition may be 30% by weight or higher, preferably 35% by weight or higher, and more preferably 40% by weight or higher.

[0326] In the composition according to the invention, (a) the amount of the fatty phase relative to the total weight of the composition may be 70% by weight or less, preferably 65% ​​by weight or less, and more preferably 60% by weight or less.

[0327] In the composition according to the invention, (a) the amount of the fatty phase relative to the total weight of the composition may be from 30% to 70% by weight, preferably from 35% to 65% by weight, and more preferably from 40% to 60% by weight.

[0328] In the composition according to the invention, the amount of the aqueous phase (b) relative to the total weight of the composition may be 10% by weight or higher, preferably 15% by weight or higher, and more preferably 20% by weight or higher.

[0329] In the composition according to the invention, the amount of the aqueous phase (b) is 40% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 35% by weight or less, and more preferably 30% by weight or less.

[0330] In the composition according to the invention, the amount of the aqueous phase (b) relative to the total weight of the composition may be from 10% to 40% by weight, preferably from 15% to 35% by weight, and more preferably from 20% to 30% by weight.

[0331] [Beauty Uses and Methods] The compositions according to the present invention can be cosmetic compositions, preferably cosmetic compositions, and more preferably lipsticks.

[0332] The cosmetic compositions according to the invention can be used for cosmetic treatments of keratinous substances such as skin and mucous membranes (e.g., lips), preferably for makeup.

[0333] Therefore, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for use with keratin substances, such as skin and lips, comprising: applying a composition according to the invention onto a keratin substance.

[0334] For example, the compositions according to the invention can be used in cosmetic methods of applying keratinous substances, such as skin and mucous membranes (e.g., on the lips), which includes the step of applying the compositions according to the invention to the keratinous substances.

[0335] The compositions according to the invention can provide cosmetic (especially makeup) effects, such as coloring keratin substances. Furthermore, the compositions according to the invention can provide long-lasting makeup effects and / or anti-color transfer effects.

[0336] The present invention may also relate to the use of (a-2-1-1) at least one nonpolar wax having a melting point of 85°C or higher, (a-2-1-2) at least one nonpolar wax having a melting point below 85°C, and (a-2-2) at least one polar wax in a composition comprising: (a) A continuous fatty phase, said continuous fatty phase comprising (a-1) At least one type of oil; and (b) Multiple dispersed aqueous phases, said aqueous phases comprising (b-1) Water, in (1) The amount of the (a-2-1-1) (one or more) nonpolar wax is 6% to 17% by weight, 8% to 16% by weight, and more preferably 10% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. (2) The weight ratio of the amount of non-polar wax with a melting point of 85°C or higher in (a-2-1-1) (one or more) to the total amount of non-polar wax with a melting point of 85°C or higher in (a-2-1-1) (one or more), non-polar wax with a melting point below 85°C in (a-2-1-2) (one or more), and polar wax in (a-2-2) is 0.4 or higher, preferably 0.5 or higher, and more preferably 0.6 or higher. This is to give the composition a hardness of 4.4 g / mm to 11.1 g / mm, preferably 4.4 g / mm to 10.6 g / mm, and more preferably 4.4 g / mm to 8.9 g / mm. Example

[0337] The present invention will be described in more detail by way of embodiments. However, these embodiments should not be construed as limiting the scope of the invention. The following embodiments are given as non-limiting descriptions within the scope of the invention.

[0338] Examples 1-5 and Comparative Examples 1-8 [preparation] Each composition in lipstick form according to Examples 1-5 and Comparative Examples 1-8 was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Tables 1 and 2 at elevated temperatures and molding / cooling to prepare lipsticks. The ingredient amounts in Tables 1 and 2 are based on "weight %" as raw materials.

[0339] [evaluate] (hardness) Using a tester (Ametek's Chatilon) TM DFGHS2) The hardness of each composition according to Examples 1-5 and Comparative Examples 1-8 was measured at 20°C, wherein the composition was in the form of a cylinder with a diameter of 9 mm, which was held at 20°C for more than 1 day before cutting. Hardness was determined as the maximum shear force (g) per mm when the composition was cut perpendicularly with a wire at a speed of 0.16-0.19 cm / s at 20°C, 1 cm from the edge of the cylinder.

[0340] The results are shown in the "Hardness" row of Tables 1 and 2.

[0341] (Application) The compositions according to Examples 1-5 and Comparative Examples 1-8 were applied to the lips of five panelists. The weight of each composition was measured before and after application. The difference between the weights of each composition before and after application was determined and averaged as the amount applied.

[0342] The results are shown in the “Application” row of Tables 1 and 2.

[0343] (Sensory test) The compositions according to Examples 1-5 and Comparative Examples 1-8 were applied to the lips of five panel members. The degree of smoothness and melting sensation was evaluated by assigning a score from 1 to 5. The scores were averaged and categorized according to the following criteria: Good: Greater than 4.0 Typical: 2.5 to 4.0 Difference: Less than 2.5 The results are shown in the "Smoothness" and "Meltability" rows of Tables 1 and 2.

[0344] (Makeup effect) The compositions according to Examples 1-5 and Comparative Examples 1-8 were applied to the lips of five panel members and left to stand for 5 minutes. The evenness of lip coloring was evaluated by assigning a score from 1 to 5. The scores were averaged and categorized according to the following criteria: Good: Greater than 4.0 Typical: 2.5 to 4.0 Difference: Less than 2.5 The results are shown in the "Makeup Effect" row of Tables 1 and 2.

[0345] (Bar mass) The compositions according to Examples 1-5 and Comparative Examples 1-8 were applied to the lips of five panel members. The strength of the stick during application was evaluated by assigning a score from 1 to 5. The scores were averaged and classified according to the following criteria: Good: Greater than 4.0 Typical: 2.5 to 4.0 Difference: Less than 2.5 The results are shown in the "Bar Mass" row of Tables 1 and 2.

[0346] (Summarize) The compositions according to Examples 1-5 (which correspond to the present invention) can provide a comfortable feeling, good cosmetic effect and good applicability.

[0347] On the other hand, the compositions according to Comparative Examples 1-2, which do not contain (a-2-2) polar wax, provided an uncomfortable feel, poor cosmetic effect, and poor applicability. The composition according to Comparative Example 5 (which does not contain (a-2-2) polar wax) could not be evaluated because it was too soft to break upon application.

[0348] The composition of Comparative Example 4 (which does not contain any non-polar wax) could not be evaluated because it was too soft to break upon application.

[0349] The composition of Comparative Example 6 (which contains less than 6% by weight of a non-polar wax with a high melting point (a-2-1-1) relative to the total weight of the composition) could not be evaluated because it was too soft to break upon application.

[0350] The compositions of Comparative Examples 3, 7, and 8 (which contain (a-2-1-1) a non-polar wax with a high melting point such that the weight ratio of the amount of (a-2-1-1) a non-polar wax with a high melting point to the total amount of (a-2-1-1) a non-polar wax with a high melting point, (a-2-1-2) a non-polar wax with a low melting point, and (a-2-2) a polar wax is less than 0.4) cannot be evaluated because they are too soft to break upon application.

Claims

1. A composition comprising: (a) A continuous fatty phase, said continuous fatty phase comprising (a-1) At least one oil, and (a-2-1-1) At least one nonpolar wax having a melting point of 85°C or higher, (a-2-1-2) At least one nonpolar wax having a melting point below 85°C, and (a-2-2) At least one polar wax; and (b) Multiple dispersed aqueous phases, said aqueous phases comprising (b-1) Water, in (1) The amount of one or more nonpolar waxes having a melting point of 85°C or higher in the (a-2-1-1) composition is 6% to 17% by weight, 8% to 16% by weight, and more preferably 10% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (2) The weight ratio of the amount of one or more non-polar waxes having a melting point of 85°C or higher in (a-2-1-1) to the total amount of one or more non-polar waxes having a melting point of 85°C or higher in (a-2-1-1), one or more non-polar waxes having a melting point of less than 85°C in (a-2-1-2), and one or more polar waxes in (a-2-2) is 0.4 or higher, preferably 0.5 or higher, and more preferably 0.6 or higher.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the (a-1) oil is selected from... (a-1-1) Volatile oil, preferably volatile non-polar oil, and more preferably volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil; (a-1-2) Non-volatile oil, preferably non-volatile non-polar oil, and more preferably non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil; as well as Its mixture.

3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the amount of one or more oils (a-1) in the composition is 15% to 45% by weight, preferably 20% to 40% by weight, and more preferably 25% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the nonpolar wax having a melting point of 85°C or higher in the (a-2-1-1) is selected from nonpolar hydrocarbon waxes, preferably polyolefin waxes, and more preferably polyethylene waxes, microcrystalline waxes, synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof.

5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the (a-2-2) polar wax is selected from polar ester waxes, preferably plant-derived polar ester waxes, and more preferably sunflower seed wax, jojoba ester, acacia flower wax, and mixtures thereof.

6. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the amount of one or more polar waxes (a-2-2) in the composition is less than 15% by weight, preferably less than 12% by weight, and more preferably less than 9% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the (a) aliphatic phase further comprises (a-3) at least one indene resin, preferably selected from hydrogenated styrene / methylstyrene / indene copolymer.

8. The composition according to claim 7, wherein the amount of one or more indene resins (a-3) in the composition is from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the (a) aliphatic phase further comprises (a-4) at least one film-forming polymer.

10. The composition according to claim 9, wherein the amount of one or more film-forming polymers (a-4) in the composition is from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the aqueous phase (b) further comprises (b-2) at least one hydrophilic thickener.

12. The composition according to claim 11, wherein the amount of one or more hydrophilic thickeners (b-2) in the composition is from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein the composition further comprises (c) at least one colorant.

14. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, wherein the composition is a cosmetic composition, preferably a makeup composition, and more preferably a lipstick.

15. A cosmetic method for using keratin substances in cosmetics, comprising the following steps: The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14 is applied to the keratin material.

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