An emulsified sunscreen and hold spray and a method of making the same
By constructing a stable emulsification system through a water-in-oil formula, the problem of discontinuous film formation in sunscreen sprays is solved, achieving deep synergy between sun protection and makeup setting, improving sun protection effect and makeup staying power, while ensuring the product's skin feel and safety.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Applications(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- COSMAX CHINA INC
- Filing Date
- 2026-06-02
- Publication Date
- 2026-07-14
AI Technical Summary
Existing sunscreen spray products struggle to balance system stability, high sun protection efficiency, long-lasting makeup setting, and gentle skin feel. In particular, the water-oil film-forming system is fragmented, and the sunscreen and makeup setting components cannot work together, resulting in discontinuous film formation, gaps in sun protection, and insufficient makeup holding power.
An oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion system is constructed by adjusting the proportion of oil phase composition to 25-40%, powder composition to 1-5%, and active composition to 0.1-2%. The water-soluble film-forming agent in the aqueous phase composition and the oil-soluble film-forming agent in the oil phase composition form a bidirectional compound synergistic effect. Combined with the uniform dispersion and anchoring effect of the powder composition, a strong, transparent, and continuous composite film is formed.
It achieves a deep synergy between sun protection and makeup setting functions, significantly improving SPF and PFA values, providing long-lasting makeup effects, while also having a good skin feel and safety.
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Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] This invention relates to the field of cosmetics technology, specifically to an emulsified sunscreen setting spray and its preparation method. Background Technology
[0002] As consumers gain a deeper understanding of the dangers of ultraviolet radiation and the demands for more refined beauty solutions continue to rise, spray products that combine sun protection and makeup setting are becoming a key development area in the beauty and personal care industry due to their ease of use, even coverage, and ability to be reapplied at any time. However, existing products generally suffer from an imbalance in core performance, making it difficult to simultaneously meet the multiple requirements of system stability, high sun protection efficiency, long-lasting makeup setting, gentle skin feel, and safety.
[0003] Chinese invention patent application CN118384040A discloses a water-oil dual-phase sunscreen spray, which uses an ethanol-free and volatile oil-free formula design, solving the problems of skin irritation and greasiness of traditional sunscreen sprays, and has good system stability and safety. However, this solution only focuses on the single function of sun protection and does not involve the design of film-forming and oil-controlling components related to makeup setting and makeup retention, and cannot meet the core need of reapplying makeup. Moreover, it uses a permanent water-oil phase system, and the water-oil phase film is discontinuous after spraying, which is easy to form sun protection holes, and the actual protection effect is far lower than theoretical. Chinese invention patent application CN120305144A discloses a three-phase makeup setting spray, which constructs a layered system of emulsion layer, water layer and powder layer, and has the triple functions of oil control, makeup setting and sun protection. However, this solution adds a high content of ethanol to the water phase, which poses a significant risk of irritation to people with sensitive skin. Moreover, its three-phase permanent layered structure is difficult to mix completely during use, which easily leads to uneven spraying and powder agglomeration, and cannot form a continuous and uniform sun protection makeup film, resulting in insufficient stability of sun protection and makeup setting effects. In summary, existing technologies have consistently failed to resolve the core contradictions of "system stability and non-smudge-proof makeup setting" and "high sun protection efficiency and gentle skin feel," necessitating the development of an emulsified sunscreen setting spray that combines multiple advantages. Summary of the Invention
[0004] The purpose of this invention is to overcome the shortcomings of the prior art. In a first aspect, it provides an emulsified sunscreen setting spray without propellant, which adopts an oil-in-water (O / W) formulation and includes: an aqueous phase composition, an oil phase composition, a powder composition, and an active composition.
[0005] The composition comprises, by weight percentage, 25-40% oil phase composition, 1-5% powder composition, 0.1-2% active composition, and the balance being aqueous phase composition; the aqueous phase composition comprises water-soluble film-forming agents and water-soluble sunscreen agents; the oil phase composition comprises oil-soluble film-forming agents and oil-soluble sunscreen agents.
[0006] Existing sunscreen setting sprays generally suffer from a disconnect between their water-oil film-forming systems and a lack of synergy between sunscreen and setting components, leading to problems such as discontinuous film formation, sunscreen gaps, and insufficient makeup staying power. This invention addresses these issues by adjusting the proportions of the oil phase composition (25-40%), powder composition (1-5%), and active composition (0.1-2%), with the remaining portion supplemented by an aqueous phase composition. This creates a stable oil-in-water emulsion system where the water-soluble film-forming agent in the aqueous phase composition synergizes with the water-soluble sunscreen agent, and the oil-soluble film-forming agent in the oil phase composition synergizes with the oil-soluble sunscreen agent, complementing the powder composition. With uniform dispersion and anchoring effects, the spray prepared through emulsification, when applied to the skin surface, can quickly spread and cross-link to form a strong, transparent, and continuous composite film. This composite film can tightly lock in the dual-phase sunscreen agent and makeup setting components. It effectively blocks ultraviolet radiation through the synergistic effect of water-oil broad-spectrum sunscreen agents, significantly improving the SPF and PFA values. At the same time, it achieves a deep synergy between sun protection and makeup setting functions by utilizing the network structure of the dual-phase film-forming agent and the oil-controlling and makeup-holding effect of the powder, ensuring the dual stability of sun protection and makeup setting effects, while giving the product a long-lasting makeup effect.
[0007] The spray contains 1-5 wt% water-soluble film-forming agent and 2-8 wt% water-soluble sunscreen agent.
[0008] The spray contains 0.2-3 wt% oil-soluble film-forming agent and 8-25 wt% oil-soluble sunscreen agent.
[0009] Optionally, the spray contains 1-2 wt% water-soluble film-forming agent and 3-6 wt% water-soluble sunscreen agent.
[0010] Optionally, the content of the oil-soluble film-forming agent in the spray is 0.5-2 wt%, and the content of the oil-soluble sunscreen agent is 10-20 wt%.
[0011] The aqueous phase composition further includes a humectant, a pH adjuster, a preservative, a chelating agent, and water; the oil phase composition includes oils and emulsifiers.
[0012] By weight percentage, the sunscreen setting spray contains 1-30% moisturizer, 0.1-2% pH adjuster, 0.01-4% preservative, 0.02-0.2% chelating agent, 1-20% oil, 0.1-5% emulsifier, and 2-5% powder composition.
[0013] Optionally, by weight percentage, the sunscreen setting spray contains 1-5% moisturizer, 1-2% pH adjuster, 0.01-2% preservative, 0.02-0.15% chelating agent, 10-20% oil, 0.1-2% emulsifier, and 2-5% powder composition.
[0014] The moisturizer includes at least one of glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexanediol, and dipropylene glycol.
[0015] The pH adjuster includes at least one of tromethamine, aminomethylpropanol, sodium hydroxide, and arginine.
[0016] The preservative includes at least one of phenoxyethanol, p-hydroxyacetophenone, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, octyl glycol, ethylhexylglycerin, and glyceryl caprylate.
[0017] The water-soluble film-forming agent includes at least one of polyvinylpyrrolidone, AMP salt of acrylate / allyl methacrylate copolymer, VP / VA copolymer, polyester-5, polyurethane-35, acrylate / octylacrylamide copolymer, acrylate copolymer, acrylate / ethylhexyl acrylate copolymer, and styrene / acrylate / ammonium methacrylate copolymer.
[0018] The chelating agent includes at least one of trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, sodium phytate, and disodium EDTA.
[0019] The oil comprises at least one of dioctyl carbonate, diisopropyl sebacate, phenylethyl benzoate, isododecane, cocoyl octanoate / decanoate, butyl octyl salicylate, dibutyl adipate, propyl heptyl octanoate, butylene glycol dioctanoate / didecanoate, C12-15 alcohol benzoate, and lauroyl sarcosine isopropyl ester.
[0020] The emulsifier includes at least one of the following: sodium stearoyl glutamate, potassium cetyl phosphate, polyglycerol-6 stearate, polyglycerol-6 behenate, C20-22 alcohol phosphate, C20-22 alcohol, polyglycerol-3 methyl glucoside distearate, inulin lauryl carbamate, cetearyl oleate, sorbitan oleate, polyglycerol-4 lauryl ester, and polyglycerol-6 lauryl ester.
[0021] The oil-soluble film-forming agent includes at least one of acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxane methacrylate copolymer, trimethylsiloxysilicate, polymethylsilsesquioxane, and VP / hexadecene copolymer.
[0022] The oil-soluble chemical sunscreen agent includes at least one of the following: ethylhexyl triazine, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, diethylaminohydroxybenzoylhexyl benzoate, diethylhexylbutamidotriazine, humosasulfate, ethylhexyl salicylate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, cresoltrazol trisiloxane, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, polysiloxane-15, octocrylene, and methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol.
[0023] The water-soluble chemical sunscreen agent includes at least one of phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid and terephthalic acid dicamphor sulfonic acid.
[0024] The powder composition comprises at least one of the following: polydimethylsiloxane / vinyl polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymer, silica, methyl methacrylate crosspolymer, polymethylsilsesquioxane, aluminum octenyl succinate starch, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, and HDI / trimethylolhexyl lactone crosspolymer.
[0025] The active composition includes at least one of agarose, panthenol, purslane extract, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, allantoin, centella asiatica extract, citrus fruit extract, lactobacillus / soybean fermentation product filtrate, bisabolol, sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer, sodium DNA, and ginger root extract.
[0026] A second aspect of the present invention provides a method for preparing an emulsified sunscreen setting spray, the method comprising the following steps: (1) Mix the components of the aqueous phase composition and heat them at 70~90℃ to obtain an aqueous phase dispersion; (2) Mix the components of the oil phase composition, heat the mixture to 70~90℃, and stir until homogeneous to obtain an oil phase dispersion; (3) Slowly add the oil phase dispersion obtained in step (2) to the aqueous phase, mix at a speed of 3000-7000 rpm, emulsify for 3-8 min, and obtain a mixture; (4) After cooling the mixture, add the powder composition and disperse it at a homogenization speed of 3000-7000 rpm for 3-8 min to obtain an emulsified sunscreen setting spray.
[0027] Beneficial effects 1. After spraying, the present invention forms a strong, transparent, and continuous composite film on the skin, which combines sun protection and makeup setting effects. It can effectively block ultraviolet radiation, effectively improve the long-wave ultraviolet protection index (SPF value) and long-wave ultraviolet protection index (PFA value) of sunscreen cosmetics, and also has a long-lasting makeup effect.
[0028] 2. The spray of this invention is fine and the droplets dry quickly, making it perfect for touch-ups with makeup on without dissolving, shifting, or patching existing foundation.
[0029] 3. The spray of this invention has a good skin feel, and the skin feels fresh and cool after application, without the need to add any additional cooling agents.
[0030] 4. The spray of this invention can be enriched with high levels of water-soluble and oil-soluble active ingredients, providing both basic sun protection and skincare benefits.
[0031] 5. The spray formula of this invention is mild and safe, contains no ethanol, and is suitable for a wider range of skin types; it uses non-inflatable packaging, eliminating flammable and explosive propellants, making it easy to carry and transport, and conforming to the trend of sustainable development. Detailed Implementation
[0032] Examples 1-7 An emulsified sunscreen setting spray, the components of which are shown in Table 1, where " / " indicates no additives: Table 1
[0033] A method for preparing an emulsified sunscreen setting spray, the method comprising the following steps: (1) Mix the components of the aqueous phase composition and heat them to 80°C to obtain an aqueous phase dispersion; (2) Mix the components of the oil phase composition, heat to 80°C, and stir until homogeneous to obtain an oil phase dispersion; (3) The oil phase dispersion obtained in step (2) is slowly added to the aqueous phase, the mixing speed is 5000 rpm, and the mixture is emulsified for 5 min to obtain the mixture; (4) After cooling the mixture, add the powder composition and disperse it at a homogenization speed of 5000 rpm for 5 min to obtain an emulsified sunscreen setting spray.
[0034] Comparative Examples 1-7 An emulsified sunscreen setting spray, the components of which are shown in Table 2, where " / " indicates no additives: Table 2
[0035] A method for preparing an emulsified sunscreen setting spray, the method comprising the following steps: (1) Mix the components of the aqueous phase composition and heat them to 80°C to obtain an aqueous phase dispersion; (2) Mix the components of the oil phase composition, heat to 80°C, and stir until homogeneous to obtain an oil phase dispersion; (3) The oil phase dispersion obtained in step (2) is slowly added to the aqueous phase, the mixing speed is 5000 rpm, and the mixture is emulsified for 5 min to obtain the mixture; (4) After cooling the mixture, add the powder composition and disperse it at a homogenization speed of 5000 rpm for 5 min to obtain an emulsified sunscreen setting spray.
[0036] Performance testing methods and data 1. The SPF and PFA values of the sprays prepared in the examples and comparative examples were tested: Each of the above samples was evenly coated onto a PMMA (polymethyl methacrylate) plate at a coating density of 1.3 mg / cm². 2 Place the PMMA plate with the smeared sample in a dark environment for equilibration for 15 minutes; measure the SPF and PFA values using a Labsphere SPF analyzer; prepare 3 parallel samples for each sample, read the test results from the Labsphere SPF analyzer, and take the average value of the measurement results. The SPF and PFA values of Examples 1-7 are shown in Table 3, and the SPF and PFA values of Comparative Examples 1-7 are shown in Table 4.
[0037] Table 3
[0038] Table 4
[0039] The results in Tables 3 and 4 show that Examples 1-7, due to the addition of film-forming agents, have better film-forming effects than Comparative Example 3, thus exhibiting superior sun protection. Comparative Example 6, due to the absence of emulsifiers, even with sufficient sunscreen and film-forming agents in its formulation, experiences rapid water-oil separation, resulting in variations in the uniformity of application and an inability to form a relatively continuous sunscreen film. Consequently, the sun protection value differs significantly from the calculated value.
[0040] 2. The sun protection duration of Example 1 and Comparative Example 6 was tested using the following experimental methods: SPF testing: Three subjects aged 25-48 years with skin types I and II were selected. Subjects were placed in a prone position, and their backs were irradiated. The minimum erythema dose (MED) of the subject's skin to ultraviolet radiation was predicted 24 hours prior to the test, and the ultraviolet radiation dose was adjusted based on the prediction results for use in the test sample. On the day of the test, a spot at least 30cm long was first selected on the subject's back. 2 In normal skin areas, at (2.00±0.05) mg / cm² 2Apply the sample to be tested or the standard control evenly to the above-mentioned area and wait 15 minutes or as per the label instructions. Then select an appropriate ultraviolet irradiation dose and irradiate in three ways: ① no sample applied to the subject's skin; ② standard control sample applied; ③ sample to be tested applied. Observe the experimental results after 16-24 hours and record the MED values for each of the three cases.
[0041] Testing instruments: SolarLight601 UV-Sunlight Simulator, ColorimeterCL400, Pinse P50 Adjustable Color Temperature Lamp, Electronic Analytical Balance, Wood's Lamp.
[0042] PFA value testing: Three subjects aged 25-48 years with skin type III were selected. Subjects were placed in a prone position, and their backs were irradiated. Four hours prior to the test, the minimum sustained melanosis (MPPD) value of the subject's skin to ultraviolet radiation was predicted. The ultraviolet radiation dose was adjusted based on the prediction results for the test sample. On the day of the test, a spot at least 30cm long was first selected on the subject's back. 2 In normal skin areas, at (2.00±0.05) mg / cm² 2 Apply the sample to be tested or the standard control evenly to the above-mentioned area and wait 15 minutes or as per the label instructions. Then select an appropriate ultraviolet irradiation dose and irradiate under three conditions: ① no sample applied to the subject's skin; ② standard control sample applied; ③ sample to be tested applied. Observe the experimental results after 2-4 hours and record the MPPD values under each of the three conditions.
[0043] Testing instruments: SolarLight601 UV-Lunar Simulator, ColorimeterCL400, benchtop magnifying glass, GILSON M250 pipette (50-250μL), electronic analytical balance, Wood's lamp.
[0044] Table 5
[0045] Table 5 shows the SPF value results of Example 1 in humans. The results indicate that, through SPF value testing of three Asian adult subjects aged 25-48 years, the SPF value of the tested sample in Example 1 was 35.4.
[0046] Table 6
[0047] Table 6 shows the SPF value results for Comparative Example 6. The results indicate that, based on the SPF value test conducted on three Asian adult subjects aged 25-48 years, the SPF value of the tested sample in Comparative Example 6 was 5.8.
[0048] Table 7
[0049] Table 7 shows the PFA value results for human subjects in Example 1. The results indicate that, through testing the long-wave ultraviolet protection index (PFA value) of sunscreen cosmetics on three Asian adult subjects aged 25-48 years, the human test results show that the PFA value of the tested sample in Example 1 is 9.2.
[0050] Table 8
[0051] Table 8 shows the PFA value results for Comparative Example 6 in humans. The results indicate that, through testing the long-wave ultraviolet protection index (PFA value) of sunscreen cosmetics in three Asian adult subjects aged 25-48 years, the PFA value of the tested sample in Comparative Example 6 was 2.9.
[0052] In summary, the above conclusions further illustrate that due to the rapid layering rate, two-layer sunscreen setting products cannot form a continuous and uniform sunscreen film when sprayed onto the skin, resulting in weak points in UV protection and actual sun protection effects (SPF and PFA values) far lower than theoretical values.
[0053] 2. Makeup holding test: Five female volunteers aged 31-36 were selected for the test. Before the test, the skin was cleansed and the participants waited 15 minutes. After applying foundation to the entire face, the sample was shaken well and an appropriate amount of sample was sprayed onto the face 3-5 times. The Visia-CR and Image-ProPlus 7.0 instruments were used to collect facial images of the participants and to test the ITA° value of the participants before and after using the sample in order to evaluate the makeup holding effect of the sample.
[0054] Skin color analysis was performed on the cross-polarized light image. The cheek area was selected in the AOI region. The L*a*b color channels of the computational macro were applied to obtain the mean values of L, a, and b. The L* value representing the brightness of the skin was extracted, and the ITA° value representing the whiteness of the skin was calculated.
[0055] Makeup lasting power = (|A S”│) / (│A S│)×100(%) A: ITA° value before using the sample S: ITA° value after sample use S”: ITA° value after 4 hours and 8 hours of sample use. A makeup retention factor greater than 50% indicates that the sample has a makeup retention effect.
[0056] The results of the makeup hold test are shown in Table 9 below.
[0057] Table 9
[0058] The above results show that Examples 1-7, due to the addition of a film-forming agent, have a better film-forming effect than Comparative Example 3, thus exhibiting excellent makeup-holding performance. Comparative Example 6, without the addition of an emulsifier and using the same film-forming agent as Example 1, also failed to achieve the expected makeup-holding effect. This further demonstrates that the emulsified sunscreen setting spray forms a strong, transparent, and continuous composite film on the skin after application, effectively blocking ultraviolet radiation with an SPF value ≥30 and a PFA value >8, while also providing long-lasting makeup-holding effect.
Claims
1. An emulsified sunscreen setting spray, characterized in that, The composition comprises, by weight percentage, 25-40% oil phase composition, 1-5% powder composition, 0.1-2% active composition, and the balance being aqueous phase composition; the aqueous phase composition comprises water-soluble film-forming agents and water-soluble sunscreen agents; the oil phase composition comprises oil-soluble film-forming agents and oil-soluble sunscreen agents.
2. The spray according to claim 1, characterized in that, The spray contains 1-5 wt% water-soluble film-forming agent and 2-8 wt% water-soluble sunscreen agent.
3. The spray according to claim 1, characterized in that, The spray contains 0.2-3 wt% oil-soluble film-forming agent and 8-25 wt% oil-soluble sunscreen agent.
4. The spray according to claim 2, characterized in that, The spray contains 1-2 wt% water-soluble film-forming agent and 3-6 wt% water-soluble sunscreen agent.
5. The spray according to claim 3, characterized in that, The spray contains 0.5-2 wt% oil-soluble film-forming agent and 10-20 wt% oil-soluble sunscreen agent.
6. The spray according to claim 1, characterized in that, The aqueous phase composition further includes a humectant, a pH adjuster, a preservative, a chelating agent, and water; the oil phase composition includes oils and emulsifiers.
7. The spray according to claim 6, characterized in that, By weight percentage, the spray contains 1-30% humectant, 0.1-2% pH adjuster, 0.01-4% preservative, 0.02-0.2% chelating agent, 1-20% oil, and 0.1-5% emulsifier.
8. The spray according to claim 1, characterized in that, The content of the powder composition in the spray is 2-5 wt%.
9. The spray according to claim 8, characterized in that, The powder composition comprises at least one of the following: polydimethylsiloxane / vinyl polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymer, silica, methyl methacrylate crosspolymer, polymethylsilsesquioxane, aluminum octenyl succinate starch, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, and HDI / trimethylolhexyl lactone crosspolymer.
10. A method for preparing a spray according to claim 1, characterized in that, Includes the following steps: The components of the aqueous phase composition are mixed to obtain an aqueous phase dispersion; the components of the oil phase composition are mixed to obtain an oil phase dispersion; the oil phase dispersion is slowly added to the aqueous phase dispersion and dispersed evenly to obtain a mixture; the powder composition is added to the mixture and dispersed evenly to obtain an emulsified sunscreen setting spray.