Method for creating a clothing pattern

Abstract

Method for creating a clothing pattern comprising the steps: a. Creating a virtual three-dimensional image of the body halves (1.1) of at least one section (1.2, 1.3) of a body (1) of a person; b. Generating virtual coordinates to simulate a garment; c. Assigning relative dimensions of the simulated garment to a two-dimensional representation, characterized in that - in step a. a virtual three-dimensional image of the body halves (1.1) of a real person is created in order to create an individual clothing cut for this real person; - after step a. the following steps are carried out: - aa Determination of an axis of symmetry (2) with respect to which there is theoretical symmetry; - from checking the existence of symmetry of the depicted body halves (1.1) with respect to the axis of symmetry (2); - in step b. at least one virtual element (3) of a garment is generated using the virtual coordinates; - in step b. the element (3) is adapted to a region of the image; - in step b., a decision is made on the basis of the result of the check whether the element (3) is adapted to the area of ​​the image of only one or both halves of the body (1.1), - in step c. the element (3) is unfolded to generate a two-dimensional clothing pattern and - the element (3) in the clothing cut can be specifically changed.

Description

[0001] The invention relates to a method for creating a clothing pattern for manufacturing garments, as is generically known from the document DE 601 00 628 T2 (WO 01 / 086512).

[0002] Mass production of garments usually takes place in standardized sizes. These often have to be subsequently adjusted and modified to suit the individual wishes and physical characteristics of the customer.

[0003] In contrast, if garments were tailored directly and individually to a customer's body shape and posture, a fitting and individual measurement were required in the past. After alterations to the garments were made, at least one more time-consuming and labor-intensive fitting might be necessary.

[0004] With the introduction of the 3D body scanner in the late 1990s, attempts were made to industrially produce customized clothing. The customer's body shape is scanned using a light beam and saved as a virtual three-dimensional image. Using a corresponding program (design software), the customer's individual body measurements are automatically determined and forwarded to a CAD system to generate a pre-designed and saved standard pattern.

[0005] One such method for designing garments is disclosed in DE 601 00 628 T2. An attempt was made to incorporate the individual characteristics of a body into the construction of a pattern. At least part of a virtual mannequin's body is represented three-dimensionally, and a network of lines and cutting planes is constructed, the intersection points of which are each at a predetermined distance from the surface of the represented body. In this way, it is possible to obtain a structure or shell whose volume and lines correspond to the garment being designed. The designed garment can be visually checked for accuracy and corrected if necessary. The design coordinates are transferred to a CAD system for the production of a pattern.By modifying certain parameters of the virtual mannequin, it is possible to simulate different body shapes and postures.

[0006] Based on body characteristics, such as the position of the navel or waist, vertical and horizontal cutting planes, as well as reference cutting planes, are defined. From these, further cutting planes and the dimensions of the elements are derived. Taking into account tabulated morphological characteristics of the various population groups for which the garments are to be produced, the cutting planes and the dimensions of the elements, as well as their relationships to each other, can be adapted to the respective population group.

[0007] WANG J ET AL: Interactive 3D garment design with constrained contour. In: COMPUTER AIDED DESIGN, ELSEVIER PUBLISHERS BV, 9 September 2009, 2009, 614-625 discloses a method for determining contours for clothing, wherein contour curves are automatically extracted from the boundaries of clothing submeshes and style curves are generated by projecting control points onto 3D clothing surfaces.

[0008] Further relevant prior art is disclosed in the documents JP 2003- 342 818 A, KR 10 2003 073 476 A, JP 2005-188 015 A, US 2006 / 0 015 208 A, DE 697 13 022 T2 and US 2005 / 0 154 487 A1.

[0009] The disadvantage of the methods known to date is that a standard body with a predetermined posture and body shape is used as the basis for creating the pattern. Using various mathematical formulas, the measurements for the pattern are determined based on the standard body. However, for the majority of people, this method cannot produce clothing with a satisfactory fit due to their individual posture and body shape.

[0010] The invention is based on the object of proposing an improved possibility for the individual creation of a clothing pattern.

[0011] The task is solved by a method for creating a clothing pattern, which includes the steps: a. Creating a virtual three-dimensional representation of the body halves of at least one portion of a person's body; b. generating virtual coordinates to simulate a garment from the image; c. Assigning relative dimensions of the simulated garment to a two-dimensional representation.

[0012] The method according to the invention is characterized in that in step a. a virtual three-dimensional image of the body halves of a real person is created in order to create an individual clothing pattern for this real person. After step a. (in a step aa) an axis of symmetry is defined with respect to which there is theoretical symmetry and then (in a step ab) it is checked whether there is symmetry between the imaged body halves with respect to the axis of symmetry. In step b. at least one virtual element of a piece of clothing is created using the virtual coordinates. This element is adapted to an area of ​​the image. In order to generate a two-dimensional clothing pattern, the element is unfolded. The element can be specifically modified in the clothing pattern.

[0013] Relative measurements refer to the proportional relationships, for example, of lengths and widths, of a garment or its components (elements). During the design process of a garment pattern, actual measurements are not important, but rather their relative relationships to one another.

[0014] To create a virtual three-dimensional image of the body halves, a 3D body scanner is preferably used. A body scanner with at least three columns is preferably used, and a three-dimensional full scan of the body section is created. The full scan is not used for non-contact measurement of the person, but is directly incorporated into the design of one or more garments. A particular advantage of the method according to the invention is that the image is actually created by the person for whom a customized garment pattern is to be created.

[0015] The scan should be performed in a natural posture. A pre-scan can detect any unnatural or tense posture.

[0016] The imaged sections of the body are preferably those for which individual garments can be made, e.g., the legs, the upper body, or the head. In a simple embodiment of the method according to the invention, the image relates to the contours of the surface of the body.

[0017] The element can be adapted, in whole or in part, directly to the surface of the body or at a selected distance from the surface. This description should be understood to mean that, instead of a single element, a number of elements can also be created, adapted, and transferred.

[0018] The element may be a spatial form in the form of a clearly defined, three-dimensional surface. It may also be represented by one or more point clouds or other spatially distributed symbols. An element lying only in one plane is considered, for the purposes of this description, to be a special form of a three-dimensional surface.

[0019] The axis of symmetry is defined as an axis (step aa) with respect to which symmetry theoretically exists. For example, symmetry is expected with respect to an axis running medially through the body. Whether symmetry actually exists with respect to the axis of symmetry defined in this way is checked in step ab. For example, pairwise differences in the distances of two or more points to the axis of symmetry can be used for the check, whereby the differences must not differ by more than a permitted tolerance. Otherwise, there is an asymmetry of the body halves with respect to the axis of symmetry. Other known methods for checking the existence of symmetry can also be used. The axis of symmetry can be defined manually or automatically, e.g., along a predefined line in the image or using a mathematical algorithm.

[0020] If an asymmetry is detected, meaning there is no symmetry, it is advantageous to repeat steps a through ab. This serves to verify the detected asymmetry. Repeating steps a through ab is possible in further versions of the method even if symmetry is present.

[0021] In step b., a decision is preferably made that, if symmetry exists, the element is created, adjusted, and assigned for one body half, and the adjusted element is mirrored, and the mirrored element is also assigned to a clothing pattern. A two-layer cut is possible. Alternatively, if symmetry is not present, the element is created, adjusted, and assigned separately for each body half. Cutting is then carried out in a single layer. If symmetry exists, only elements for one body half need to be created, adjusted, and transferred, which makes the creation of the clothing pattern more efficient. The mirroring of the element can take place during or after the element has been adjusted.

[0022] It is an advantageous embodiment of the method according to the invention if the axis of symmetry is composed of axial sections, and the existence of symmetry of the imaged body halves is checked with respect to the respective axial section. The axial sections preferably correspond to sections of the body. For example, a first axial section can extend from the feet to the hips, and a second axial section from the hips to the crown of the head. It is advantageous that the axial sections do not have to be aligned or parallel to one another. This allows, for example, a posture of the upper body that is bent relative to the legs and hips to be taken into account. Steps b. and c. can then be carried out individually for each axial section.

[0023] To create cutting lines for a garment pattern, a design software operator can define cutting planes through the body. For example, one cutting plane may preferably be at waist level. Other cutting planes may be at knee, chest, or shoulder level. Furthermore, the operator can enter additional lines, points, markers, or similar information into the diagram. Points from different cutting planes can be connected to form cutting lines. For example, a cutting line representing the side seam may be determined by points on the cross-sections at waist, knee, calves, and ankle levels. Cutting planes can be defined as reference planes.

[0024] In a preferred embodiment of the method according to the invention, at least one cross-section through the image is defined along at least one vertical and / or one horizontal reference plane. Starting from the cross-section, at least one point of a curve is defined, which defines at least one boundary of at least one element. For example, a cross-section can be defined by a horizontal reference plane at waist level. A further reference plane can be defined as a vertical reference plane of the entire structure of the garment composed of elements, extending medially and dorsoventrally of the image. The axis of symmetry preferably lies in the vertical reference plane.In the cross-section defined by the horizontal reference plane, for example, those points of a curve bounding the cross-section can be defined that are furthest from the vertical reference plane. In further embodiments of the method according to the invention, it is also possible to define the point at a selected distance from the curve bounding the cross-section or within the cross-section. This allows, for example, allowances to ensure comfort or a particularly tight fit of the garment.

[0025] Preferably, at least one point is also defined starting from a further cross-section, for example at ankle level. The points are connected to one another by a curve. The curve delimits at least one element on at least one of its sides. Several points can also be defined starting from one or more cross-sections. In a preferred embodiment of the method according to the invention, at least one auxiliary plane can be defined through some or all of the points. This auxiliary plane can extend either vertically, horizontally or at any other arbitrary angle to the reference plane(s). The orientation of the at least one auxiliary plane is determined by the individual body shape and posture of the real person. The auxiliary plane can consist of several sections that are at an angle to one another.For example, a first section can extend from the ankles to the waist and depict the actual position of the legs in the auxiliary plane. A second section can, for example, extend from the waist to the chest, and a third section from the chest to the shoulders. These sections of the auxiliary plane can be used to depict individual posture.

[0026] The curves created by the horizontal and vertical cross-sections of the image (contour outline curves) make it possible to generate the cross-sections from the image as individual geometric elements delimited by contour outline curves and to implement them in a coordinate system of the design software. For example, a reference line can show the person's actual waistline and thus represent the horizontal reference plane of the entire structure of the garment composed of elements. Additional horizontal cutting planes and corresponding cross-sections are possible, for example, at the level of the intersection between the neck and shoulders, at the level of the ventral highest point of the chest, at the widest point in the hip area, at the level of the calves, at the level of the ankles, at the intersection in the crotch area, at the level of the upper arms, at the level of the forearms, and at the level of the wrists.

[0027] The reference line can be established using a marker attached to the body and accurately depicted, such as a belt or reflective tape. Based on this reference line, at least one measurement of the element is determined. A significant advantage is that the person can determine the position of the reference line themselves.

[0028] The relative position of the waist in the illustration is particularly suitable as a reference line. Determining the waist is a key step in the production of many garments. However, in practice, it is often difficult to determine a person's waist precisely. Particularly in overweight people, the position of the waist is not always easy to determine. In addition, different people often have different ideas about where they want the waist to be in their garments. Determining the waist, for example, using a marking device allows the individual wearing habits of each person to be taken into account.

[0029] If there is asymmetry between the body halves with respect to the axis of symmetry, the horizontal cutting planes must be set at an angle of 90° to the axis of symmetry of the respective section. The positions of the cutting planes for lateral (e.g., mediolateral) and frontal (e.g., dorsoventral) cross-sections of the image are determined graphically.

[0030] The generated elements are unfolded from their three-dimensional form into the two-dimensional clothing pattern. Markings assigned to the elements, such as lines, points, point clouds, or grain line notes drawn by a person using a program, can be transferred into the pattern. The elements can be modified within the pattern, for example, they can be edited using the program. This allows necessary allowances, such as comfort allowances and darts, to be added to the dimensions of the element. Additional elements that were not previously adjusted to the illustration can also be inserted into the clothing pattern.

[0031] The grain line, which corresponds to the length of the fabric's thread, should always run vertically to avoid unwanted wrinkling of the fabric. Especially in cases of identified asymmetries between the body halves, the grain line should be determined individually.

[0032] It is very useful if the clothing pattern is reconstructed (rolled up) into the image, allowing for a virtual fitting. This may be necessary, for example, after changes to the element in the clothing pattern. It is advantageous that the person for whom the garment is to be made does not need to be asked to try it on again. With appropriate programming, it is also possible to rotate the image as desired, allowing the element or the garment to be viewed from all angles.

[0033] The individual steps of the process can be supported by programs that are assigned to individual, several or all steps.

[0034] The invention is explained in more detail below with reference to illustrations and exemplary embodiments. In the following: Fig. 1 a schematic representation of an image of a real person whose body halves are symmetrical with respect to an axis of symmetry; Fig. 2 a schematic representation of an image of a real person whose body halves are asymmetrical with respect to an axis of symmetry; Fig. 3 a schematic representation of reference planes and auxiliary planes in an image of a section of the body of a real person, Fig. 4 a schematic representation of a section of the body of a real person with adapted elements; Fig. 5 a schematic representation of elements assigned to a clothing pattern and changes made to the elements in the clothing pattern.

[0035] In Fig. 1 shows an image of a real person's body 1, created using a body scanner, editable by a computer, and displayed on a screen. The body 1 is depicted by its displayed surface and divided into body halves 1.1 by a median axis of symmetry 2 automatically determined by a program component of a design software. The design software checks for symmetry of the body halves 1.1 with respect to the axis of symmetry 2. The result of the check—the determined symmetry of the body halves 1.1—is shown to the computer operator on a screen.

[0036] In Fig. 2 shows a body 1 of a real person whose body halves 1.1 are asymmetrical with respect to the axis of symmetry 2. A first section 1.2 from the feet to the hips is symmetrical, while a second section 1.3, which corresponds to the upper body, is asymmetrical with respect to the axis of symmetry 2. If an asymmetry is detected when carrying out the method according to the invention, the steps of determining the axis of symmetry 2 and checking for the presence of symmetry are repeated once. If the result of the repeated check corresponds to the first check, the detected asymmetry is considered confirmed. The axis of symmetry 2 is divided into axial sections based on the data used for the check. A first axial section 2.1 extends from the feet to the hips, while a second axial section 2.2 extends from the hips to the neck. The second axial section 2.2 is inclined by an angle α with respect to the first axial section 2.1.If such a subdivision of the axis of symmetry 2 is possible, it can be decided for the first axis section 2.1 reaching up to the hip, elements 3 (see . Fig. 3) to be adapted to only one half of the body 1.1, while for the second axial section 2.2 extending from the hip to the neck, it is decided to adapt all elements 3 individually.

[0037] Based on the Fig. Figure 3 describes the basic procedure for constructing cutting lines and elements 3 for trousers. It shows an image of a body 1 from approximately ankle height to the middle of the upper body. At waist level, a cross-section of the image is defined by a horizontal cutting plane as the horizontal reference plane 5. A vertical reference plane 4 extends medially to the image and in the dorsoventral direction. The cross-section is bounded by a contour outline curve 12. Starting from the cross-section, a point P of the contour outline curve 12 is sought on each side of the vertical reference plane 4 in the horizontal reference plane 5, which point is furthest away from the vertical reference plane 4. To ensure the desired level of comfort of the trousers, an additional point P1 is determined in each case, which lies outside the cross-section. Each of the points P1 is an end of a manually defined construction curve 13.The construction curve 13 also lies in the horizontal reference plane 5, has an approximately semi-oval shape in the ventral direction and is limited by a straight line perpendicular to the vertical reference plane 4 and passing through the axis of symmetry 2.

[0038] A horizontally extending auxiliary plane 11 is defined at the level of the ankles. Two cross-sections are defined in the horizontal auxiliary plane 11 through the two ankles. Starting from these cross-sections, a point P2 is manually determined (shown for one side only), as described above. A vertically extending auxiliary plane 11 is defined by points P1 lying in the horizontal reference plane 5 and points P2 lying in the horizontal auxiliary plane 11. The vertical auxiliary plane 11 is inclined to the vertical reference plane 4 and to the horizontal reference plane 5 by an angle (not shown), which depends on the person's actual posture. The points P1 and P2 lying on the construction curves 13 are connected to each other on each side of the vertical reference plane 4 by a straight line serving as an intersection line. This intersection line is the lateral line S.The lateral line S runs in the vertical auxiliary plane 11 and runs on the surface of the body 1. The course of the lateral line S can be adjusted manually. For example, a point P5 is manually defined at hip level, through which the lateral line S runs. The point P5 at hip level results in the lateral line S running slightly outwards, away from body 1, between the waist and hip, and slightly inwards between the hip and ankle (for a clearer representation in . Fig. 4). This section line can be considered a modified lateral line S.

[0039] In the horizontal auxiliary plane 11, as described above, a construction curve 13 is defined each time, starting from the respective cross-section at ankle level and the respective contour outline curve 12 at ankle level. This extends from point P2 to a further point P3 in the horizontal auxiliary plane 11. On the construction curve 13 in the horizontal reference plane 5, a point P4 is defined each time, which is located vertically above point P3. An element 3 is delimited by the side line S, the construction curve 13 in the horizontal auxiliary plane 11, a section line running between points P3 and P4 and by the section of the construction curve 13 between points P1 and P4 in the horizontal reference plane 5. The section line between points P3 and P4 is the crease BF.

[0040] In a further embodiment of the method, additional cross-sections and points P can be defined. For example, cross-sections can be defined at the level of the hips, knees, and / or calves. The elements are then correspondingly smaller and partially or completely delimited by other section lines.

[0041] The points P of the construction curve 13 can be defined on the contour outline curve 12 or within a cross-section. The side line S then follows the surface of the body 1 (as in Fig. 3) or lies within the body 1. The latter design in particular leads to the construction of garments that have to be stretched by the body 1 when worn.

[0042] Not shown is the determination of lateral lines S above the horizontal reference plane 5. The procedure described above is applied accordingly. The auxiliary planes 11 are determined manually and based on visual assessment.

[0043] The position of the shoulder line of the garment is determined by the point P1 of a cross-section at the level of the base of the neck and by the point P1 of a cross-section at the level of the shoulder joint.

[0044] The Fig. The figure shown in Figure 4 shows the body halves 1.1 from the feet to approximately halfway through the upper body. The legs up to the hips are defined as the first section 1.2, to which at least one virtually generated element 3 is adapted.

[0045] The position of the horizontal reference plane 5 at the waist is determined by a belt attached to the real person, put on by the person himself and depicted in the correct location as a marking means 7. Starting from the horizontal section plane 5 at the waist (waistline) determined by the marking means 7, as shown in Fig. 3, an operator of the design software defines further points P of the above-mentioned and / or further cutting lines.

[0046] The horizontal cutting planes 5 at the waist and hip levels essentially determine the fit of the trousers, since the area from the waist to the hip is a load-bearing surface 8. Furthermore, a center seam M, a waistband B of the trousers, and a crease BF and the side lines S are defined. These cutting lines delimit the elements 3 (only two of which are shown as examples), which together represent the trousers.

[0047] Through the combination of cutting lines, a garment has been constructed that is individually adapted to section 1.2.

[0048] It should be noted that on certain parts of the body the clothing fits more closely to body 1 and on other parts it is looser or does not fit at all. Tight-fitting areas are load-bearing areas 8 of body 1. This includes the shoulder line, the shoulder blades and the area between the neck and chest for garments such as jackets, shirts or dresses. For waistbanded items such as trousers or skirts the load-bearing areas 8 are the waist and the top of the hips. There is a free space between the clothing and those parts of the body that are not part of the load-bearing areas 8. This is necessary to allow body 1 freedom of movement when wearing the garment and to give the garment its shape. This is the so-called allowance for comfort (comfort allowance 9).The load-bearing surfaces 8, the comfort allowance 9 as well as their interactions and changes during different states of movement of the body 1 must be carefully taken into account when determining the cutting lines.

[0049] If symmetry is determined, element 3 is created and adjusted for only one body half 1.1. Using the design software, element 3 is mirrored and shown in the illustration in the corresponding position for the other body half 1.1. Adjusting or correcting element 3 of the other body half 1.1 is possible, but not mandatory. If asymmetry is determined, elements 3 are adjusted for both body halves 1.1. It is possible to view section 1.2 from all sides and make adjustments to the fit if necessary. During this phase of the process, it is necessary to determine the respective direction of the grain 10 (generally symbolized by an arrow) for each element 3.

[0050] Once all elements 3 have been created and adjusted, the elements 3 are unfolded using the design software after a final visual inspection by the operator and assigned to a clothing pattern.

[0051] Such a clothing cut is in Fig.5 is shown in a simplified manner. In addition to the developed and assigned elements 3 (only two of which are designated), an area F is shown which was created by the operator and is an overlapping region between elements 3. When elements 3 or parts thereof overlap, stretching of a fabric of the garment can be provided, e.g. using known heat treatment processes. If a dart is to be provided, the length of the fabric must be reduced. Changes to the elements 3 in the garment pattern are made taking into account the properties of a clothing fabric later used for the garment. The clothing pattern also shows the waistband B, the center seam M, the creases BF and the grain 10.

[0052] The result of the method according to the invention is a clothing pattern in which all individual characteristics of the depicted section 1.2 of the person, such as posture, proportions and symmetry of the body halves 1.1, are taken into account.

[0053] The elements 3 contained in the garment pattern and the area F can be rewound at any time and displayed on section 1.2 of the body 1. This allows for a virtual fitting of the garment constructed in this way. It is also possible to send the pattern as a file (or copy), for example, to a production facility or another studio. Furthermore, changes can be made simultaneously or sequentially to the pattern or one of its file(s) independently of one another. List of reference symbols 1 body 1.1 Body halves 1.2 first section 1.3 second section 2 axis of symmetry 2.1 first axle section 2.2 second axle section 3 elements 4 vertical reference plane 5 horizontal reference plane 6 Reference line 7 Marking agents 8 load-bearing surface 9 Convenience allowance 10 Thread path 11 Auxiliary level 12 Contour outline curve 13 Construction curve α angle (between symmetry axis 2 and second axis section 2.2) P, P1 to P5 point S sideline M center seam B Bund BF crease F Area

Claims

[1] Method for creating a clothing pattern comprising the steps: a. Creating a virtual three-dimensional image of the body halves (1.1) of at least one section (1.2, 1.3) of a body (1) of a person; b. Generating virtual coordinates to simulate a garment; c. Assigning relative dimensions of the simulated garment to a two-dimensional representation, characterized by , that - in step a. a virtual three-dimensional image of the body halves (1.1) of a real person is created in order to create an individual clothing cut for this real person; - after step a. the following steps are carried out: - aa Determination of an axis of symmetry (2) with respect to which there is theoretical symmetry; - from checking the existence of symmetry of the depicted body halves (1.1) with respect to the axis of symmetry (2); - in step b. at least one virtual element (3) of a garment is generated using the virtual coordinates; - in step b. the element (3) is adapted to a region of the image; - in step b., a decision is made on the basis of the result of the check whether the element (3) is adapted to the area of ​​the image of only one or both halves of the body (1.1), - in step c. the element (3) is unfolded to generate a two-dimensional clothing pattern and - the element (3) in the clothing cut can be specifically changed. [2] Method according to claim 1, characterized by that steps a to ab are repeated if there is no symmetry. [3] Method according to claim 1 or 2, characterized bythat, in the presence of symmetry, elements (3) are generated, adapted and transferred for one body half (1.1) and the adapted elements (3) are mirrored and the mirrored elements (3) are also transferred into a clothing pattern or, in the absence of symmetry, elements (3) are generated, adapted and assigned separately for each body half (1.1). [4] Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized by that the axis for checking the symmetry (2) is composed of axis sections (2.1, 2.2) and the existence of a symmetry of the depicted body halves (1.1) with respect to the respective axis section (2.1, 2.2) is checked. [5] Method according to claim 4, characterized by that steps b and c are carried out for each axis section (2.1, 2.2). [6] Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized bythat at least one cross-section is defined through the image along at least one vertical and / or one horizontal reference plane (4, 5) and, starting from the cross-section, at least one point (P) of a curve is defined by which at least one boundary of at least one element (3) is given. [7] Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized by that a reference line (6) is defined in the figure. [8] Method according to claim 7, characterized by that the reference line (6) is determined by means of a marking means (7) attached to the body (1) and accurately depicted. [9] Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized by that the elements (3) of the clothing pattern are transferred back into the image so that a virtual fitting of the element (3) is possible.

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