Tinting shampoo with improved coloring performance

Abstract

Agent for coloring keratin fibers, in particular human hair, containing in a cosmetic carrier (a) At least one direct dye, including HC Blue 16, (b) at least one amphoteric surfactant in a total amount of 3.0 to 7.0 wt.%, based on the weight of the composition, and (c) at least one alkyl polyglycoside in a total amount of 0.5 to 4.0% by weight, based on the weight of the composition, characterized in that the weight-related total content of amphoteric surfactant (b) in the agent - based on the weight of the agent - is greater than the weight-related total content of alkyl polyglycoside (c), further characterized in that the amphoteric surfactant is cocoamidopropyl betaine ((C 11 H 23 )C(O)NH(C 3 H 6 )N(NH 2 ) 2 CH 2 C(O)O) is contained, further characterized in that the alkylpolyglycoside contained is an alkylpolyglucoside having an alkyl radical comprising 10 to 20 carbon atoms, further characterized in that the agent contains 0 to ≤ 0.2 wt.%, based on the weight of the agent, of surfactants which contain a sulfate group (-OSO 3 ), and further characterized in that the agent comprises less than 0.2% by weight of sodium chloride.

Description

[0001] The present invention is in the field of cosmetics and relates to agents for coloring (hereinafter also referred to as coloring agents) keratin fibers, in particular human hair, which contain, in a cosmetic carrier, at least one direct dye and a combination of at least one amphoteric surfactant and at least one alkyl polyglycoside. These coloring agents are particularly suitable for - Increasing the chromaticity of the dyes on the keratin fiber and / or - Increasing the absorption of the dyes on the keratin fibre and / or - Increasing the color intensity of the dyes on the keratin fiber.

[0002] A second subject of the present invention is a method for coloring keratin fibers, in which a colorant containing a combination of at least one amphoteric surfactant and at least one alkyl polyglycoside is used.

[0003] A third object of the present invention is the use of the agent according to the invention for coloring keratin fibers, in which a coloring agent containing a combination of at least one amphoteric surfactant and at least one alkyl polyglycoside is used.

[0004] Altering the shape and color of keratin fibers, especially hair, represents an important area of ​​modern cosmetics. This allows the appearance of hair to be adapted to current fashion trends as well as the individual's wishes. Depending on the coloring requirements, hair professionals are familiar with various coloring systems for changing hair color. Oxidation dyes are typically used for permanent, intensive colorings with good fastness properties and good gray coverage. Such dyes typically contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components, and coupler components, which combine with each other to form the actual dyes under the influence of oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide. Oxidation dyes are characterized by excellent, long-lasting coloring results, but are also associated with a certain degree of hair damage.

[0005] If the user wants to reduce hair damage or only temporarily change the hair color, they can use colorants based on direct dyes. In this case, the fully formed pigments diffuse from the dye into the hair fiber. Compared to oxidative hair coloring, the colors obtained with direct dyes are less durable and wash out more quickly. The gray coverage achieved with direct dyes also generally requires improvement. However, the advantage of direct dyes is that they cause less hair damage.

[0006] Depending on the desired color result, the specialist uses substantive dyes from different dye classes. The substantive dyes known from the state of the art belong, for example, to the class of nitro dyes, anthraquinone dyes, azo dyes, triarylmethane dyes, or methine dyes. All of these dye classes should meet specific requirements for use in the cosmetics sector. Substantive dyes should deliver an intensive color result and possess the best possible fastness properties. The color result obtained with substantive dyes should be affected as little as possible by environmental influences, i.e., the dyes should, for example, exhibit good washfastness, lightfastness, and rubbing fastness.Chemical influences to which the keratin fibers may be exposed after the coloring process (such as perms) should also change the color result as little as possible.

[0007] Direct dyes can be divided into anionic, cationic, and non-ionic direct dyes. In cosmetic compositions, these interact in different ways with the other components of the composition. Surface-active ingredients such as surfactants or emulsifiers play a significant role in this. These agents are intended to free the keratin fibers of impurities in cosmetic compositions and / or emulsify components of the composition itself. Depending on the choice of surface-active substance, however, interactions can also occur between these substances and the direct dyes, which can sometimes significantly impair the coloring result compared to products that do not contain surface-active substances.

[0008] Surfactants or emulsifiers are amphiphilic (bifunctional) compounds consisting of at least one hydrophobic and at least one hydrophilic moiety. The hydrophobic moiety is usually a hydrocarbon chain. Depending on the type of surfactant, the hydrophilic moiety can have a negative charge, a positive charge, a negative and a positive charge, or no charge.

[0009] In anionic surfactants, the hydrophilic moiety contains at least one negatively charged hydrophilic head group. Anionic surfactants contain exclusively negative charges.

[0010] Cationic surfactants are surfactants, i.e., surface-active substances, with one or more positive charges. Cationic surfactants contain exclusively positive charges.

[0011] Zwitterionic (amphoteric) surfactants contain at least one negatively charged and at least one positively charged group in the hydrophilic moiety of the molecule. These are spatially separated from each other and exist side by side, with the surfactant as a whole being electrically neutral. There are also non-ionic (non-ionogenic) surfactants, which are characterized by the absence of electrical charges in the molecules.

[0012] It has long been known to those skilled in the art that many surfactants can significantly impair the color absorption of direct dyes on keratin fibers. Not all types of surfactants are compatible with all types of direct dyes. The color absorption of direct dyes depends largely on the type of surfactant and the type of dye. Anionic surfactants, in particular, negatively influence the color absorption of non-ionic and cationic dyes, but also anionic dyes. Cationic surfactants, in particular, negatively influence the color absorption of non-ionic and anionic dyes, but also cationic dyes.

[0013] To circumvent these problems, only compositions in which the dye and surfactant are precisely matched are generally used. Therefore, it is not possible to use any dye with any surfactant, or to combine several dyes in any way to achieve the desired shade.

[0014] Accordingly, various such compositions are disclosed in the prior art. EP 1935455A1 discloses a composition comprising a direct dye in combination with at least one bioheteropolysaccharide, at least one cationic surfactant, and at least one amphoteric surfactant. WO 2013 / 041485 A2 describes a composition comprising at least one dye, for example a direct dye, at least one fatty substance in the form of a long-chain dialkyl carbonate or dialkenyl carbonate, at least one alkyl polyglycoside, and at least one cationic and / or amphoteric polymer. Cleaning compositions with different combinations of surfactants are described, for example, in WO 2016 / 040158 A1, WO 2013 / 082413 A1, and WO 2014 / 149019 A1. None of these compositions is specifically suitable for the improved color application of direct dyes.EP1504749A1 discloses sulfate surfactant-free tinting shampoos containing at least one foaming surfactant selected from nonionic and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 dimethicone, and at least one direct dye. DE19907376A1 deals with improving the conditioning properties of anionic surfactant-containing, particularly sulfate surfactant-containing, shampoos and tinting shampoos. Mintel Registry Entry No. 573668 discloses a sulfate surfactant-free tinting shampoo containing cocamidopropyl betaine, lauryl glucoside, and various cationic direct dyes.

[0015] Conventional surfactant-containing colorants with direct dyes (tinting shampoos) are typically optimized either for the best possible coloring properties or for the best possible cleaning properties or foam formation. The selection of combinable direct dyes and surfactants is limited, thus imitating the flexibility of possible dye combinations of direct dyes.

[0016] The present invention therefore aimed to provide a surfactant-containing dyeing agent based on direct dyes that is compatible with a wide variety of different direct dyes and ensures good color absorption. Furthermore, the agent should allow for the widest possible color variety, chromaticity, and color intensity.

[0017] Finally, the product should also have good cleaning properties and foaming properties and be easy to use.

[0018] Surprisingly, it has now been found that a large number of different direct dyes can be used individually or in combination with one another in a surfactant-containing cosmetic composition, in particular a shampoo (tinting shampoo), with improved coloring performance if the surfactant-containing cosmetic composition comprises the at least one direct dye in combination with at least one amphoteric surfactant and at least one alkyl polyglycoside.

[0019] Particularly good color lift was achieved when the weight-based content of amphoteric surfactant was greater than the weight-based content of alkyl polyglycoside. Further improvements in color lift were observed when the surfactant-containing formulations were prepared using sodium chloride-free surfactant preparations.

[0020] A first subject of the present invention is an agent for coloring keratin fibers, in particular human hair, containing in a cosmetic carrier (a) at least one direct dye, including HC Blue 16 (b) at least one amphoteric surfactant in a total amount of 3.0 to 7.0 wt.%, based on the weight of the composition, and (c) at least one alkyl polyglycoside in a total amount of 0.5 to 4.0% by weight, based on the weight of the composition, characterized in that the weight-related total content of amphoteric surfactant (b) in the agent - based on the weight of the agent - is greater than the weight-related total content of alkyl polyglycoside (c), further characterized in that the amphoteric surfactant is cocoamidopropyl betaine ((C 11 H 23 )C(O)NH(C 3 H 6 )N(NH 2 ) 2 CH 2 C(O)O) is contained, further characterized in that the alkylpolyglycoside contained is an alkylpolyglucoside having an alkyl radical comprising 10 to 20 carbon atoms, further characterized in that the agent contains 0 to ≤ 0.2 wt.%, based on the weight of the agent, of surfactants which contain a sulfate group (-OSO 3 ), and further characterized in that the agent comprises less than 0.2% by weight of sodium chloride.

[0021] Keratin fibers include fur, wool, feathers, and especially human hair. Although these products are primarily suitable for dyeing keratin fibers, there is nothing in principle to prevent their use in other areas as well.

[0022] The term “agent for coloring” keratin fibers refers to coloring agents that color the keratin fibers based on direct dyes.

[0023] A characteristic feature of the agent according to the invention is its content of the essential ingredients (b) and (c). It has been shown that particularly advantageous agents can be obtained if the total weight-based content of amphoteric surfactant (b) in the agent—based on the weight of the agent—is greater than the total weight-based content of alkyl polyglycoside (c).

[0024] As the first essential ingredient, the agent according to the invention contains at least one direct dye (a), which must contain at least HC Blue 16.

[0025] As the first essential ingredient, the agent according to the invention contains at least one direct dye (a), including HC Blue 16.

[0026] The direct dye(s) (a) is / are preferably present in a total amount of from 0.001 to 7% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 5.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 3.4% by weight and particularly preferably from 0.3 to 2% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the colorant.

[0027] Direct dyes (a), which may be included in addition to HC Blue 16, can be divided into anionic, cationic, and non-ionic direct dyes. Direct dyes are typically selected from nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones, triarylmethane dyes, or indophenols and their physiologically acceptable salts.

[0028] Dyes that carry exclusively anionic charges are referred to by those skilled in the art as acid dyes. The terms anionic dye and acid dye are therefore used synonymously within the meaning of this invention. Anionic dyes and acid dyes are understood to be direct dyes that contain at least one carboxylic acid group (-COOH) and / or at least one sulfonic acid group (-SO 3 H). Depending on the pH value, the protonated forms (-COOH, -SO 3H) the carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid groups with their deprotonated forms (-COO-, -SO 3 -) exist in equilibrium. As the pH decreases, the proportion of protonated forms increases. If direct dyes are used in the form of their salts, the carboxylic acid groups or sulfonic acid groups are present in deprotonated form and are neutralized with corresponding stoichiometric equivalents of cations (such as Na cations or K cations) to maintain electroneutrality. An anionic dye carries no cationic charges.

[0029] Suitable acid dyes can be, for example, one or more compounds selected from the following group: Acid Yellow 1 (D&C Yellow 7, Citronin A, Ext. D&C Yellow No. 7, Japan Yellow 403, CI 10316, COLIPA n° B001), Acid Yellow 3 (COLIPA n°:C 54, D&C Yellow N° 10, Quinoline Yellow, E104, Food Yellow 13), Acid Yellow 9 (CI 13015), Acid Yellow 17 (CI 18965), Acid Yellow 23 (COLIPA n° C 29, Covacap Jaune W 1100 (LCW), Sicovit Tartrazine 85 E 102 (BASF), Tartrazine, Food Yellow 4, Japan Yellow 4, FD&C Yellow No. 5), Acid Yellow 36 (CI 13065), Acid Yellow 121 (CI 18690), Acid Orange 6 (CI 14270), Acid Orange 7 (2-Naphthol orange, Orange II, CI 15510, D&C Orange 4, COLIPA n° C015), Acid Orange 10 (CI 16230; Orange G sodium salt), Acid Orange 11 (CI 45370), Acid Orange 15 (CI 50120), Acid Orange 20 (CI 14600), Acid Orange 24 (BROWN 1; CI 2017; Brown No. 201; ACID ORANGE 201;1), Acid Red 14 (CI14720), Acid Red 18 (E124, Red 18; CI 16255), Acid Red 27 (E 123, CI 16185, C-Rot 46, Echtrot D, FD&C Red Nr.2, Food Red 9, Naphtholrot S), Acid Red 33 (Red 33, Fuchsia Red, D&C Red 33, CI 17200), Acid Red 35 (CI CI18065), Acid Red 51 (CI 45430, Pyrosin B, Tetraiodfluorescein, Eosin J, lodeosin), Acid Red 52 (CI 45100, Food Red 106, Solar Rhodamine B, Acid Rhodamine B, Red n° 106 Pontacyl Brilliant Pink), Acid Red 73 (CI CI 27290), Acid Red 87 (Eosin, CI 45380), Acid Red 92 (D&C Red; Red 104; AKA231; RED 28; SUREDYE; 11969 Red; PHLOXINE;CI 45405;CI 45410; EOSINE B); Acid Red 95 (CI 45425, Erythrosine, Simacid Erythrosine Y), Acid Red 184 (CI 15685), Acid Red 195; Pigment Red 57:1 (E180;D&CRED7; CI 15850; Rubine 4BN; CI 15850:1; PIGMENT RED 57; Litholrubine BK; LITHOLRUBINE RB; LITHOLRUBINE BCA; Lithol Rubine B); Acid Violet 43 (Jarocol Violet 43, Ext.D&C Violet n° 2, CI 60730, COLIPA n° C063), Acid Violet 49 (CI 42640), Acid Violet 50 (CI 50325), Acid Blue 1 (Patent Blue, CI 42045), Acid Blue 3 (Patent Blau V, CI 42051), Acid Blue 7 (CI 42080), Acid Blue 104 (CI 42735), Acid Blue 9 (E 133, Patentblau AE, Amidoblau AE, Erioglaucin A, CI 42090, CI Food Blue 2), Acid Blue 62 (CI 62045), Acid Blue 74 (E 132, CI 73015), Acid Blue 80 (CI 61585), Acid Green 3 (CI 42085, Foodgreen1), Acid Green 5 (CI 42095), Acid Green 9 (CI 42100), Acid Green 22 (CI 42170), Acid Green 25 (CI 61570, Japan Green 201, D&C Green No. 5), Acid Green 50 (Brillantsäuregrün BS, CI 44090, Acid Brilliant Green BS, E 142), Acid Black 1 (Black n° 401, Naphthalene Black 10B, Amido Black 10B, CI 20470, COLIPA n° B15), Acid Black 52 (CI 15711), Food Yellow 8 (CI 14270), Food Blue 5, D&C Yellow 8, D&C Green 5, D&C Orange 10, D&C Orange 11, D&C Red 21, D&C Red 27, D&C Red 33, D&C Brown 1, Bromphenolblau und / oder Tetrabromphenolblau.

[0030] In einer weiteren besonders bevorzugten Ausführungsform ist ein erfindungsgemäßes Mittel dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass es zusätzlich zu HC Blue 16 (a) mindestens einen anionischen direktziehenden Farbstoff aus der Gruppe, bestehend aus Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 3, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 17, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 121, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 11, Acid Orange 15, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 51, Acid Red 52, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 87, Acid Red 92, Acid Red 95, Acid Red 184, Acid Red 195, Acid Violet 43, Acid Violet 49, Acid Violet 50, Acid Blue 1, Acid Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 104, Acid Blue 9, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 74, Acid Blue 80, Acid Green 3, Acid Green 5, Acid Green 9, Acid Green 22, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 50, Acid Black 1, Acid Black 52, Food Yellow 8, Food Blue 5, D&C Yellow 7, D&C Yellow 8, D&C Orange 4, D&C Green 5, D&C Orange 10,D&C Orange 11, D&C Red 21, D&C Red 27, D&C Red 33, D&C Violet 2 and D&C Brown 1.

[0031] A composition according to the invention is particularly preferably characterized in that, in addition to HC Blue 16, it comprises at least one anionic direct dye (a) from the group Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 92; Acid Violet 43, Acid Blue 9, Acid Blue 62 and Acid Black 1.

[0032] The additional anionic, direct dye(s) (a) are preferably present in a total amount of 0.0 to 7% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 5.5% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 3.4% by weight and particularly preferably 0.3 to 2% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the colorant.

[0033] Further dyes preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one cationic direct dye as an additional direct dye (a). Dyes that carry exclusively cationic charges are also commonly referred to as basic dyes.

[0034] Examples of basic (cationic) dyes suitable in addition to HC Blue 16 (bluequat bromide) are: Basic Blue 6 (CI-No. 51,175), Basic Blue 7 (CI-No. 42,595) Basic Blue 9 (CI-No. 52,015), Basic Blue 26 (CI-No. 44,045), Basic Blue 41 (CI-No. 11,154), Basic Blue 99 (CI-No. 56,059), HC Blue 15, Cationic Blue 347, Basic Brown 4 (CI-No. 21,010), Basic Brown 16 (CI-No. 12,250), Basic Brown 17 (CI-No. 12,251), Natural Brown 7 (CI-No. 75,500), Basic Green 1 (CI-No. 42,040), Basic Red 2 (CI-No. 50,240), Basic Red 22 (CI-No. 11,055), Basic Red 51, Basic Red 76 (CI-No. 12,245), Basic Violet 1 (CI-No. 42,535), Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3 (CI-No. 42,555), Basic Violet 10 (CI-No. 45,170), Basic Violet 14 (CI-No. 42,510), Basic Yellow 57 (CI-No. 12,719), Basic Yellow 87 and Basic Orange 31, as well as combinations of the aforementioned dyes.One or more dyes from the group HC Blue 15, HC Blue 16 (Bluequat bromide), Cationic Blue 347, Basic Violet 2, Basic Red 51, Basic Red 76, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31, and Basic Brown 17 have proven to be particularly suitable.

[0035] A composition according to the invention is particularly preferably characterized in that, in addition to HC Blue 16, it contains at least one cationic, direct dye (a) from the group HC Blue 15, Basic Red 76, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Orange 31, and Basic Brown 17. The cationic, direct dye(s) (a) are preferably present in a total amount of 0.0 to 7% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 5.5% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 3.4% by weight, and particularly preferably 0.3 to 2% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the colorant.

[0036] Further colorants preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one non-ionic direct dye in addition to HC Blue 16 as direct dye (a). This can, for example, be selected from the group HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 7, HC Red 10, HC Red 11, HC Red 13, HC Red BN, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11, HC Blue 12, HC Blue 15, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9, 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)aminophenol, 2-(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 4-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-3-nitro-1-methylbenzene, 1-amino-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 1-(2'-Ureidoethyl)amino-4-nitrobenzene, 2-[(4-amino-2-nitrophenyl)amino]benzoic acid,4-[(3-Hydroxypropyl)amino]-3-nitrophenol, 4-nitro-o-phenylenediamine, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, picramic acid and its salts, N,N'-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-nitro-p-phenylenediamine, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid and 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrophenol.

[0037] A composition according to the invention is very particularly preferably characterized in that, in addition to HC Blue 16, it comprises at least one non-ionic, direct dye (a) from the group HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 7, HC Red 13, HC Orange 1, HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 13, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11, HC Blue 12, HC Blue 14, HC Violet 2, Disperse Violet 1, 4-[(3-hydroxypropyl)amino]-3-nitrophenol and 4-amino-3-nitrophenol.

[0038] The additional non-ionic, direct dye(s) (a) are preferably present in a total amount of 0.0 to 7% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 5.5% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 3.4% by weight and particularly preferably 0.3 to 2% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the colorant.

[0039] Preferred additional direct dyes (a) in addition to HC Blue 16 are: Basic Red 76, Basic Yellow 57, 4-hydroxypropylamino-3-nitrophenol, HC Red 13, HC Red 3, HC Blue 12, HC Orange 1, HC Blue 16 (blue quat bromide), HC Yellow 2, N,N'-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-nitro-p-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, Ext. D&C Violet 2, HC Violet 2, Basic Brown 17, Basic Red 76 and Basic Yellow 57, as well as mixtures thereof. In addition to HC Blue 16, more preferred are also Basic Red 76, Basic Yellow 57, 4-hydroxypropylamino-3-nitrophenol, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, HC Red 13, HC Violet 2, and mixtures thereof. In addition to HC Blue 16, Basic Violet 2, Basic Yellow 57, 4-hydroxypropylamino-3-nitrophenol, HC Red 13 and 4-amino-3-nitrophenol and mixtures thereof are particularly preferred.

[0040] In a preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention comprises a combination of several direct dyes, including HC Blue 16. By combining a large number of direct dyes, shades across the entire color spectrum can be created. Several purely cationic dyes can be combined with one another, as well as combinations of anionic, cationic, and / or non-ionic dyes.

[0041] Suitable dyes for combination with each other can be selected, in addition to HC Blue 16 (Bluequat bromide), for example from HC Red 3, HC Blue 12, HC Orange 1, HC Yellow 2, N,N'bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-nitro-p-phenylenediamine, Ext. D&C Violet 2, Basic Brown 17, Basic Red 76, and Basic Yellow 57.

[0042] In general, the above-mentioned information regarding the amounts of anionic, cationic, or non-ionic substantive dyes to be used also applies mutatis mutandis when combining several substantive dyes. It is preferable that the stated quantities for the total amounts of substantive dyes (a) to be used are not exceeded, even in dye mixtures comprising substantive dyes.

[0043] In addition, the agent according to the invention comprises at least two surfactants, namely at least one amphoteric surfactant (b) in a total amount of 3.0 to 7.0 wt.%, based on the weight of the agent, wherein the amphoteric surfactant cocoamidopropyl betaine ((C 11 H 23 )C(O)NH(C 3 H 6 )N(NH 2 ) 2 CH 2C(O)O), and at least one alkyl polyglycoside (c) in a total amount of 0.5 to 4.0 wt.%, based on the weight of the agent, wherein the alkyl polyglycoside contained is an alkyl polyglucoside having an alkyl radical comprising 10 to 20 carbon atoms, and wherein the weight-related total content of amphoteric surfactant (b) in the agent - based on the weight of the agent - is greater than the weight-related total content of alkyl polyglycoside (c). It has been found that very intensive color results could be achieved.

[0044] In general, the total amount of surfactants in the agent according to the invention is preferably up to 50% by weight, more preferably 3.5 to 40% by weight, further preferably 5 to 30% by weight, and most preferably 7 to 12% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the agent.

[0045] In a preferred embodiment, the total content - based on the weight of the agent - of amphoteric surfactants (b) and alkyl polyglycosides (c) together is 3.5 to 11.0 wt.%, preferably 5.0 to 11.0 wt.%, and particularly preferably 6.0 to 11.0 wt.%.

[0046] As previously discussed, particularly advantageous effects have been observed when the agent according to the invention comprises, based on its weight, less alkyl polyglycoside (c) than amphoteric surfactant (b). Preferably, the weight ratio of amphoteric surfactant to alkyl polyglycoside is in a range of 1:0.9 to 1:0.1, more preferably in a range of 1:0.3 to 1:0.8, and especially in a range of 1:0.5 to 1:0.7.

[0047] As already explained above, amphoteric surfactants (b) comprise at least one negatively charged and at least one positively charged group in the hydrophilic moiety of the molecule. Examples of preferred amphoteric surfactants (b) are the betaines, the N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, the N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, and the 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines, each containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. According to the invention, at least one betaine, in particular at least one alkyl betaine, is used as the amphoteric surfactant (b), which is cocoamidopropyl betaine.

[0048] Alkylamidoalkylbetaines have the formula (I): where R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical having 5 to 20, preferably 8 to 14 carbon atoms, and n is an integer from 0 to 10, in particular 0 to 4. In a preferred embodiment, R is a linear hydrocarbon radical, in particular a linear, saturated hydrocarbon radical. According to the invention, an alkylamidoalkylbetaine of formula (I) with R = -C 10 H 21 , -C 11 H 23 or -C 12 H 25 and n = 1, in particular an alkylamidoalkylbetaine of the formula (I) with R = -C 11 H 23 and n = 1, the amphoteric surfactant (b), also known as cocoamidopropyl betaine, is used. Preferably, the amphoteric surfactant (b) is substantially free of sodium chloride, i.e., it comprises <0.2 wt.%, more preferably <0.1 wt.%, and especially <0.01 wt.%, based on the total weight of the amphoteric surfactant (b), of NaCl. High-purity, sodium chloride-free cocoamidopropyl betaine is available, for example, under the trade name EMPIGEN® Total Active TC / U from the manufacturer Huntsman Corporation.

[0049] The alkyl polyglycosides (c) are non-ionic surfactants characterized by the absence of electrical charges in the molecules.

[0050] Alkyl polyglycosides according to the invention are characterized in that they are alkyl polyglucosides and have a hydrophobic, long-chain alkyl radical comprising 10 to 20 carbon atoms and, as the hydrophilic molecular moiety, a glycoside sugar, which is a glucoside sugar. In the embodiment according to the invention, the alkyl polyglucoside comprises at least one linear, branched, or cyclic, saturated, or unsaturated radical having 10 to 20 carbon atoms. The alkyl radical is particularly preferably linear, and even more preferably linear and saturated. The degree of polymerization of the glucoside sugar is preferably 1 to 10, in particular 1 to 5, particularly preferably 1.1 to 2.

[0051] Alkyl polyglycosides according to the invention are alkyl polyglucosides.

[0052] Particularly preferred alkyl polyglucosides include lauryl polyglucoside, decyl polyglucoside, octyl polyglucoside, and cocoglucoside, especially lauryl polyglucoside. Lauryl polyglucoside is available, for example, under the trade name PLANTACARE® from BASF. Preferably, the non-ionic surfactant (c) is substantially free of sodium chloride, i.e., it comprises <0.2 wt.%, in particular <0.1 wt.%, based on the total weight of the amphoteric surfactant (b), of NaCl. Lauryl polyglycoside is available, for example, under the trade name PLANTACARE® from the manufacturer BASF SE.

[0053] The agent according to the invention is substantially free of sodium chloride, ie it comprises < 0.2 wt.%, in particular < 0.1 wt.%, extremely preferably 0 wt.% sodium chloride, based on the total weight of the agent.

[0054] The treatment of keratin fibers with agents containing (a) at least one direct dye, (b) at least one amphoteric surfactant, and (c) at least one alkyl polyglycoside resulted in particularly intense colorations in attractive shades. Surprisingly, it was found that the color absorption capacity could be further optimized by using a combination of an amphoteric surfactant (b) and an alkyl polyglycoside (c) in a weight ratio of 1:0.9 to 1:0.1, more preferably in a range of 1:0.3 to 1:0.8, and especially in a range of 1:0.5 to 1:0.7. Particularly intensive colorations were obtained when, in addition to the direct dyes (a), at least one amphoteric surfactant (b) from the group of alkylamidoalkylbetaines and at least one alkyl polyglycoside (c) from the group of alkyl polyglucosides according to claim 1 were used in the coloring agents.

[0055] Agents according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain (b) at least one amphoteric surfactant selected from the group of alkylamidoalkylbetaines of the formula (I), in particular cocoamidopropylbetaine ((C 11 H 23 )C(O)NH(C 3 H 6 )N(NH 2 ) 2 CH 2 C(O)O).

[0056] Furthermore, particularly good results were achieved by making surfactants (b) and (c) substantially free of sodium chloride. Therefore, the colorant according to the invention comprises <0.2 wt.% NaCl, in particular <0.1 wt.% NaCl. Preferably, the entire agent is free of NaCl.

[0057] The colorants may further contain additional active ingredients, auxiliaries, and additives to improve the coloring performance and to adjust other desired properties of the agents. The colorants are preferably provided as a liquid preparation, and therefore, if appropriate, an additional surface-active substance is added to the agents. Such surface-active substances are referred to as surfactants or emulsifiers depending on the area of ​​application. They are preferably selected from sulfate-free anionic, cationic, nonionic, ampholytic, and amphoteric surfactants and emulsifiers.

[0058] As previously explained, cationic surfactants are surfactants, i.e., surface-active compounds, each with one or more positive charges. Cationic surfactants contain exclusively positive charges. These surfactants are typically composed of a hydrophobic moiety and a hydrophilic head group, with the hydrophobic moiety generally consisting of a hydrocarbon backbone (e.g., consisting of one or two linear or branched alkyl chains), and the positive charge(s) located in the hydrophilic head group. Cationic surfactants adsorb at interfaces and aggregate in aqueous solution above the critical micelle formation concentration to form positively charged micelles.

[0059] Examples of cationic surfactants are: - quaternary ammonium compounds which may carry one or two alkyl chains with a chain length of 8 to 28 C atoms as hydrophobic residues, - quaternary phosphonium salts substituted by one or more alkyl chains with a chain length of 8 to 28 C atoms, or - tertiary sulfonium salts.

[0060] Furthermore, the cationic charge can also be part of a heterocyclic ring (e.g., an imidazolium ring or a pyridinium ring) in the form of an onium structure. In addition to the functional unit carrying the cationic charge, the cationic surfactant can also contain other uncharged functional groups, as is the case, for example, with esterquats. Cationic surfactants of this type are, for example, physiologically acceptable salts of N,N,N-trimethyl-1-hexadecanaminium, in particular N,N,N-trimethyl-1-hexadecanaminium chloride, which is also sold under the trade name Dehyquart A-CA. Another suitable cationic surfactant is a physiologically acceptable salt of dimethyldistearyldimethylammonium, particularly preferably dimethyldistearylammonium chloride. Other cationic surfactants can be selected from the group of cationic imidazolium compounds.

[0061] Examples of preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids, wherein the ampholytic surfactant is different from the amphoteric surfactant (b).

[0062] The one or more ampholytic and / or cationic surfactants can be present in a total amount of 0.0 to 5.0 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 2.5 wt.%, more preferably 0.4 to 1.8 wt.% and particularly preferably 0.6 to 0.9 wt.% - in each case based on the total weight of the agent.

[0063] In anionic surfactants, the hydrophilic moiety comprises a negatively charged hydrophilic head group. The negatively charged hydrophilic head group can be, for example, a carboxylic acid group or the salt of a carboxylic acid group, a sulfonic acid group or the salt of a sulfonic acid group, a sulfuric acid ester group or the salt thereof, a phosphonic acid group or the salt of a phosphonic acid group, or a phosphoric acid ester group or the salt thereof.

[0064] The cosmetic agent according to the invention typically comprises an aqueous carrier. In aqueous solution, the aforementioned hydrophilic head groups of the anionic surfactant—such as the carboxylic acid and the salts of the carboxylic acids—exist in an equilibrium, the position of which is partly determined by the pH of the agent. If, for example, a fatty acid is used as the anionic surfactant, a small portion of the fatty acid is present in aqueous solution in the form of the protonated fatty acid, whereas the majority of the fatty acid is deprotonated in aqueous solution and thus converted into the fatty acid salt. For this reason, the definition of an anionic surfactant also includes a surfactant with a—still protonated—acid group. An anionic surfactant within the meaning of the present invention does not contain any cationic moieties, i.e., amphoteric surfactants are not included in the definition of an anionic surfactant.

[0065] Anionic surfactants are characterized by the presence of a water-solubilizing anionic group, such as a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate, or phosphate group, and a lipophilic alkyl group with approximately 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Additionally, the molecule may contain glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether, and amide groups, as well as hydroxyl groups.

[0066] Typical examples of anionic surfactants are alkylbenzenesulfonates, alkanesulfonates, olefinsulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, a-methyl ester sulfonates, sulfofatty acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, hydroxy mixed ether sulfates, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide (ether) sulfates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and their salts, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, acyl lactylates, acyl tartrates, acyl glutamates, acyl aspartates, alkyl oligoglucoside sulfates, protein fatty acid condensates (especially wheat-based vegetable products) and alkyl (ether) phosphates. If the anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, these can have a conventional, but preferably a narrowed homolog distribution.

[0067] Anionic surfactants, in particular sulfated surfactants, ie anionic surfactants, at least one sulfate group (-OSO 3 ) generally have a negative influence on the color absorption of direct dyes, in particular cationic, direct dyes. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention therefore comprises only small amounts of surfactants which comprise a sulfate group, in particular alkyl sulfates and alkyl ether sulfates such as fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, hydroxy mixed ether sulfates, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide (ether) sulfates. According to claim 1, the agent according to the invention comprises surfactants containing sulfate groups in a total amount of 0 to ≤ 0.2% by weight, preferably from 0 to ≤ 0.15% by weight and in particular from 0 to ≤ 0.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the agent. The agent is very particularly preferably free of surfactants containing sulfate groups.

[0068] In a further, particularly preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention comprises only small amounts of anionic surfactants. The agent according to the invention preferably comprises anionic surfactants in a total amount of preferably from 0 to ≤ 0.2 wt.%, more preferably from 0 to ≤ 0.15 wt.%, and in particular from 0 to ≤ 0.1 wt.%, based on the total weight of the agent. Most preferably, the agent is free of anionic surfactants.

[0069] In a further, particularly preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention comprises as surfactants exclusively the at least one amphoteric surfactant (b) in combination with the at least one alkyl polyglycoside (c).

[0070] Ready-to-use products may contain other excipients and additives. Dyeing processes on keratin fibers typically occur in a slightly acidic to alkaline environment, preferably in a slightly acidic to slightly alkaline environment. However, to protect the keratin fibers and the skin as much as possible, setting a pH value that is too high is not desirable.

[0071] In principle, the pH of the agent can be in a range from pH 2 to pH 11, preferably in a range from pH 3 to pH 8. In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is therefore characterized in that it has a pH in the range from 2 to 11, preferably 3 to pH 8, particularly preferably from 3.5 to 7.0, further preferably from 4.0 to 6.5 and very particularly preferably from 4.5 to 5.5.

[0072] The pH value can be measured, for example, using a glass electrode, which is usually designed as a combination electrode. The pH values ​​used in the present invention are pH values ​​measured at a temperature of 22 °C.

[0073] The alkalizing agents usable according to the invention for adjusting the preferred pH value can be selected from the group consisting of ammonia, alkanolamines, basic amino acids, and inorganic alkalizing agents such as (alkali earth) metal hydroxides, (alkali earth) metal metasilicates, (alkali earth) metal phosphates, and (alkali earth) metal hydrogenphosphates. Preferred inorganic alkalizing agents are magnesium carbonate, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, sodium silicate, and sodium metasilicate. Organic alkalizing agents usable according to the invention are preferably selected from monoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, and triethanolamine. The basic amino acids usable as alkalizing agents according to the invention are preferably selected from the group consisting of arginine, lysine, ornithine, and histidine, particularly preferably arginine.However, in the course of the investigations relating to the present invention, it has been found that further preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they additionally contain an organic alkalizing agent. One embodiment of the first subject matter of the invention is characterized in that the agent additionally contains at least one alkalizing agent selected from the group consisting of ammonia, alkanolamines, and basic amino acids, in particular ammonia, monoethanolamine, and arginine or its compatible salts.

[0074] Acidifying agents that can be used to adjust the pH value are organic acids such as citric acid, acetic acid, ascorbic acid, benzoic acid, lactic acid, malic acid and maleic acid, as well as mineral acids such as hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid or phosphoric acid.

[0075] Furthermore, it has proven advantageous if the colorants contain at least one stabilizer or complexing agent. Particularly preferred stabilizers are phenacetin, alkali metal benzoates (sodium benzoate), and salicylic acid. Furthermore, all prior art complexing agents can be used. Complexing agents preferred according to the invention are nitrogen-containing polycarboxylic acids, in particular EDTA and EDDS, and phosphonates, in particular 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonate (HEDP) and / or ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonate (EDTMP) and / or diethylenetriaminepentamethylenephosphonate (DTPMP), or their sodium salts.

[0076] Furthermore, the agents according to the invention can contain further active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, such as, for example, non-ionic polymers such as, for example, vinylpyrrolidinone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidinone, vinylpyrrolidinone / vinyl acetate copolymers, polyethylene glycols and polysiloxanes; silicones such as volatile or non-volatile, straight-chain, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or non-crosslinked polyalkylsiloxanes (such as dimethicones or cyclomethicones), polyarylsiloxanes and / or polyalkylarylsiloxanes, in particular polysiloxanes with organofunctional groups, such as substituted or unsubstituted amines (amodimethicones), carboxyl, alkoxy and / or hydroxyl groups (dimethicone copolyols), linear polysiloxaneA)-polyoxyalkyleneB) block copolymers, grafted silicone polymers;cationic polymers such as quaternized cellulose ethers, polysiloxanes with quaternary groups, dimethyldiallylammonium chloride polymers, acrylamide-dimethyldiallylammonium chloride copolymers, diethyl sulfate-quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate-vinylpyrrolidinone copolymers, vinylpyrrolidinone-imidazolinium methochloride copolymers and quaternized polyvinyl alcohol; zwitterionic and amphoteric polymers; anionic polymers such as polyacrylic acids or crosslinked polyacrylic acids; fatty substances such as C; 8 -C 30-Fatty alcohols, hydrocarbons or natural oils and fats; hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example lecithin and cephalins; perfume oils, dimethyl isosorbide and cyclodextrins; fiber structure improving agents, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose; dyes for coloring the product; anti-dandruff agents such as piroctone olamine, zinc omadine and climbazole; amino acids and oligopeptides; protein hydrolysates of animal and / or plant origin, as well as in the form of their fatty acid condensation products or optionally anionically or cationically modified derivatives; light stabilizers and UV blockers; active ingredients such as panthenol, pantothenic acid, pantolactone, allantoin, pyrrolidinone carboxylic acids and their salts and bisabolol;Polyphenols, in particular hydroxycinnamic acids, 6,7-dihydroxycoumarins, hydroxybenzoic acids, catechins, tannins, leucoanthocyanidins, anthocyanidins, flavanones, flavones and flavonols; ceramides or pseudoceramides; vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors; plant extracts; fats and waxes such as fatty alcohols, beeswax, montan wax and paraffins; swelling and penetrating agents such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, hydrogen carbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates; opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers; pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3 distearate and pigments.

[0077] The expert will select these additional substances based on the desired properties of the agent. Regarding further optional components and the amounts of these components used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the expert. The additional active ingredients and excipients are preferably used in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.0001 to 25 wt.%, in particular 0.0005 to 15 wt.%, based on the total weight of the respective agent.

[0078] The agents according to the invention contain the direct dyes in combination with at least one amphoteric surfactant (b) and at least one alkyl polyglycoside (c) in a cosmetic carrier. This cosmetic carrier is preferably aqueous, alcoholic, or aqueous-alcoholic. For the purpose of hair treatment, such carriers include, for example, creams, emulsions, gels, or surfactant-containing foaming solutions, such as shampoos, foam aerosols, or other preparations suitable for application to the hair. Shampoos (tinting shampoos) are particularly suitable.

[0079] An aqueous carrier according to the invention contains at least 40% by weight, in particular 50% by weight, of water. Aqueous-alcoholic carriers according to the present invention are water-containing compositions containing 3 to 70% by weight of a C 1 -C 4-alcohol, in particular ethanol or isopropanol. The agents according to the invention can additionally contain other organic solvents, such as, for example, 4-methoxybutanol, ethyl diglycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, n-propanol, n-butanol, 1,3-butylene glycol, glycerol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, and diethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents. Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they additionally contain a non-aqueous solvent, with preferred agents according to the invention containing the solvent in a concentration of 0.1 to 20 wt.%, preferably in a concentration of 0.5 to 10 wt.%, very particularly preferably in a concentration of 1 to 7 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the agent.It has been shown that the inventive combination of at least one amphoteric surfactant and at least one alkyl polyglycoside increases the solubility of the direct dyes, allowing the amount of solvents, particularly 1,2-propylene glycol and 1,3-butylene glycol, to be reduced. Often, only 1 to 5 wt.% of these solvents are required in the inventive dyes.

[0080] In addition, it may also contain at least one penetration enhancer. Penetration enhancers can usually also act as solvents.

[0081] Examples of suitable penetration enhancers include propylene carbonate, benzyl alcohol, 2-phenoxyethanol-1-ol and / or benzyl alcohol.

[0082] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is therefore characterized in that it additionally contains at least one penetration enhancer from the group consisting of propylene carbonate, benzyl alcohol, 2-phenoxyethanol-1-ol and / or benzyl alcohol.

[0083] It is particularly advantageous if the dyeing agent according to the invention contains at least one penetration enhancer from the group consisting of benzyl alcohol, 2-phenoxyethanol-1-ol, and / or propylene carbonate. By using one or more solvents from this group, the color absorption of the acid dyes can be disproportionately increased. Furthermore, it has been shown that the fastness properties of the dyeings obtainable with the agent according to the invention are improved.

[0084] If keratin fibers are dyed with a dye containing at least one of the two aromatic alcohols, subsequent dyeing with direct acid dyes results in dyes characterized by very good gray coverage. These dyes also have outstanding washfastness.

[0085] The agent according to the invention can preferably contain the solvent(s) in specific total amounts ranging from 0 to 20.0 wt.%, preferably from 1.0 to 17.0 wt.%, more preferably from 5.0 to 14.0 wt.%, and most preferably from 8.5 to 12.5 wt.%. All amounts are based on the total amount of all solvents present in the agent, which is related to the total weight of the agent.

[0086] The agent according to the invention may further contain additional active ingredients, auxiliaries, and additives to improve the coloring performance and to establish other desired properties of the agent. As already stated, the agent is preferably provided as a liquid preparation. It has proven advantageous for the agent to contain at least one thickener. There are no fundamental restrictions regarding these thickeners. Both organic and purely inorganic thickeners can be used.Suitable thickeners are anionic, synthetic polymers; cationic, synthetic polymers; naturally occurring thickeners such as non-ionic guar gums, scleroglucan gums or xanthan gums, gum arabic, ghatti gum, karaya gum, tragacanth gum, carrageenan gum, agar-agar, locust bean gum, pectins, alginates, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, as well as cellulose derivatives such as methylcellulose, carboxyalkylcelluloses and hydroxyalkylcelluloses; non-ionic, fully synthetic polymers such as polyvinyl alcohol or polyvinylpyrrolidinone; and inorganic thickeners, in particular layered silicates such as bentonite, especially smectites such as montmorillonite or hectorite.

[0087] Particularly preferred are associative thickeners such as hydrophobically modified polyacrylates (HASE), hydrophobically modified cellulose ethers (HMHEC), hydrophobically modified polyacrylamides (HMPAM), hydrophobically modified polyethers (HMPE), and associative polyurethane thickeners. Hydrophobically modified cellulose ethers, in particular C 5 -C 25 -Alkylhydroxyethylcellulose, preferably C 10 -C 20 -Alkylhydroxyethylcellulose, for example C 14 -Alkylhydroxyethylcellulose, C 15 -Alkylhydroxyethylcellulose, C 16 -Alkylhydroxyethylcellulose, C 17 -Alkylhydroxyethylcellulose, C 18 -Alkylhydroxyethylcellulose, and mixtures thereof.

[0088] Particularly preferred is cetylhydroxyethylcellulose, available under the trade name Natrosol™ Plus 330 CS from Ashland.

[0089] Preferably, at least one thickener is present in a total amount of 0.1 to 5 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 3 wt.%, more preferably 0.1 to 2 wt.% and in particular 0.1 to 1 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the agent.

[0090] The agent according to the invention may also contain anionic polymeric thickeners. Suitable compounds are, for example, selected from crosslinked or uncrosslinked copolymers containing at least two different monomers from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, C 1 -C 6 -alkyl esters of acrylic acid and / or the C 1 -C 6 -alkyl esters of methacrylic acid. Particularly preferred anionic copolymers are copolymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their C 1 -C 6-Alkyl esters, which are sold under the INCI name Acrylates Copolymer. Particularly preferred is the combination of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate, as well as optionally crosslinking, multifunctional monomers. A preferred commercial product for this is, for example, Aculyn® 33 or 33A, which is offered by Rohm & Haas.

[0091] Furthermore, the agent according to the invention can contain as film former one or more cationic compounds from the group Polyquaternium-1, Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-3, Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-5, Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-8, Polyquaternium-9, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-11, Polyquaternium-14, Polyquaternium-16, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18, Polyquaternium-22, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-28, Polyquaternium-32, Polyquaternium-33, Polyquaternium-37, Polyquaternium-39, Polyquaternium-44, Polyquaternium-46, Polyquaternium-53, Polyquaternium-55, Polyquaternium-64, Polyquaternium-67, Contains polyquaternium-68, polyquaternium-69 and / or polyquaternium-86 as film formers.

[0092] Polyquaternium-37 is a particularly preferred film former. This improves the properties of the product and the quality of the resulting color.

[0093] Preferably, at least one cationic polyquaternium compound is present in a total amount of 0.1 to 5 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 3 wt.%, more preferably 0.1 to 2 wt.% and in particular in an amount of 0.1 to 1 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the agent.

[0094] Preferably, at least one associative thickener, in particular a hydrophobically modified cellulose ether, and at least one polyquaternium compound are used in combination. Particularly good color results have been achieved with a combination of cetylhydroxyethylcellulose and polyquaternium-37.

[0095] Furthermore, hair-conditioning compounds can preferably be included in the compositions. Hair-conditioning compounds exhibit substantivity to human hair, for example, due to cationic or cationizable groups, particularly protonated amine groups or quaternary ammonium groups. Particularly preferred hair-conditioning compounds are cationic and / or amphoteric polymers.

[0096] The agent according to the invention can be formulated in various forms. For example, it can be applied as a gel, an emulsion, a solution, or even in the form of a coloring foam. The use of gels (shampoo) represents a particularly appealing and convenient application form for the user and is therefore preferred. The gel can be applied directly to the keratin fibers to be colored, and the application process can be easily integrated into the user's daily hygiene routine. Therefore, the formulation of the agent as a shampoo (tinting shampoo) is particularly preferred.

[0097] The agents can be formulated as single-component agents or as multi-component agents, such as two-component or three-component agents, and applied accordingly. Separation into multi-component systems is particularly useful where incompatibilities between ingredients are expected or suspected; in such systems, the agent to be used is prepared by the consumer directly before use by mixing the components. The agent according to the invention is preferably formulated as a single-component agent.

[0098] The term "product for color-changing keratin fibers" always refers to a ready-to-use product. If the product is provided to the user in the form of a single-component product, the ready-to-use product does not need to be prepared first; it can be taken directly from the container in which it was packaged and applied to the keratin fibers.

[0099] A further object of the present invention is therefore the use of an agent according to one of the claims 1 - 11 for - Increasing the chromaticity of the dyes on the keratin fiber and / or - Increasing the absorption of the dyes on the keratin fibre and / or - Increasing the color intensity of the dyes on the keratin fiber when coloring keratin fibers, especially human hair.

[0100] With regard to further preferred embodiments of the use, what has been said about the means applies mutatis mutandis.

[0101] The agents of the subject invention can be used in processes for dyeing human hair.

[0102] A further object of the present invention is therefore a method for - Increasing the chromaticity of the dyes on the keratin fiber and / or - Increasing the absorption of the dyes on the keratin fibre and / or - Increasing the color intensity of the dyes on the keratin fibers.In the coloring of human hair, in which an agent according to one of claims 1 to 11 is applied to the keratin fibers.

[0103] With regard to further preferred embodiments of the methods, what has been said regarding the means and uses applies mutatis mutandis.

[0104] The colorants according to the invention are characterized by good foaming properties comparable to those of conventional shampoos. Foaming levels of more than 2 cm can be achieved (rapid foaming test in a beaker).

[0105] The colorants according to the invention make it possible to formulate tinting shampoos which simultaneously comprise anionic, cationic and non-ionic direct dyes and which exploit the full coloring power of each dye.

[0106] The use of the specific combination of amphoteric surfactants (b) and alkyl polyglycosides (c), wherein the total weight-based content of amphoteric surfactant (b) in the agent—based on the weight of the agent—is greater than the total weight-based content of alkyl polyglycoside (c), enables significant improvements in color absorption, chromaticity, and / or color intensity compared to the use of conventional anionic, cationic, or amphoteric surfactants. Surfactant-containing colorants can thus be provided whose color absorption is comparable to that of aqueous colorants.

[0107] The agent may contain a comparatively high proportion of amphoteric surfactant (b) and alkyl polyglycosides (c). These also act as emulsifiers for the dyes, increasing their solubility and allowing the content of organic solvents in the dye to be kept comparatively low. Examples

[0108] The formulations summarized in Table 1 were prepared. Unless otherwise stated, the quantities are in percent by weight based on the total weight. The data refer to the active ingredient content. Table 1 Composition of the comparative formulations V1, V2, V3 and V4 investigated, as well as the formulation E1 according to the invention formulation V1 V2 V3 V4 E1 Sodium laureth-2 sulfate 5 Cocoamidopropyl betaine (ex Dehyton K) 5 Cocoamidopropyl betaine (ex Empigen® Total Active TC / U) 5 5 Lauryl polyglycoside (Plantacare®) 3 Direct dye (see Table 2) 0,30 0,30 0,30 0,30 0,30 NaCl 0 0 0,25 0 0 Water 99,70 94,70 94,45 94,70 91,70 pH [4,3 - 5,0] [4,3 - 5,0] [4,3 - 5,0] [4,3 - 5,0] [4,3 - 5,0]

[0109] The direct dyes used were those summarized in Table 2. Table 2 Direct dyes used Name of the dye The following abbreviation is used Basic Red 76 A HC Blue 16 B Basic Yellow 57 C 4-Hydroxypropylamino-3-nitrophenol D HC Red 13 E Color lift, color intensity and chromaticity

[0110] Before the dyeing process, hair strands (Kerling 10-0) were colorimetrically measured (Spectralflash SF 450 colorimetric device from Datacolor). The ready-to-use color formulations prepared as described above were then applied to the hair strands and left there for 30 minutes at 20°C. The hair strands were then thoroughly rinsed and dried in a stream of air. After dyeing and drying, the hair strands were colorimetrically measured again. The color difference (ΔE) between the undyed and dyed strand, or between the strand dyed with an aqueous solution of the dye and the strand dyed with a surfactant-containing dye, was calculated using the following formula: ΔE=(Lv−Ln)2+(av−an)2+(bv−bn)2, with Lv, av, bv colorimetric values ​​before dyeing, Ln, an, bn colorimetric values ​​after dyeing.

[0111] Analogously, the color difference (ΔE) between the strand dyed with an aqueous solution of the dye and the strand dyed with a surfactant-containing dye is calculated: ΔE=(Lw−Lt)2+(aw+at)2+(bw+bt)2, with Lw, aw, bw after dyeing with aqueous solution, Lt, at, bt after dyeing with surfactant-containing dye.

[0112] The chromaticity (chroma c, color direction) is calculated from the measured values ​​a (CIE) and b (CIE) according to the following formula: c=a2+b2.

[0113] The measured and calculated data are summarized in Table 3.

[0114] The greater the color difference ΔE (vs. Kerling 10-0) between the undyed strand and the colored strand, the stronger the color lift resulting from the coloring. When using formulations E1, a more intense color result was achieved for dyes A, B, D, and E compared to the comparison formulations V1 to V4. A good color result was achieved with dye C.

[0115] The highest possible chromaticity (i.e., the highest possible value for chroma c) indicates high color intensity. As can be seen from the calculated values, the highest value for chroma c was determined for dyes A, B, D, and E when using formulation E1 compared to the comparative formulations V1 to V4. Good chromaticity was also achieved with dye C.

[0116] The measured value ΔE (vs. aqueous dye) describes the color fidelity of dyeing from a surfactant-containing solution compared to dyeing with an aqueous solution alone. Small values ​​indicate a color take-up from a surfactant-containing solution that is similar to that from an aqueous solution. Compared to the color take-up from an aqueous solution, formulation E1 also achieves good values ​​for all of the dyes tested. In the case of dye C, these values ​​are even better than those of all other formulations.

[0117] The measured L (CIE) value is a measure of the brightness or intensity of a color. Small measured values ​​indicate high intensity. The lower the L value, the greater the intensity of the color. Compared to formulations V1 to V4, formulation E1 consistently achieved good to very good L (CIE) values. An exceptionally low L value was achieved with dye E. Table 3 Results of the colorimetric tests for formulations V1, V2, V3, V4 and E1 with dyes A, B, C, D and E (only dye B is in accordance with the invention) dye formulation L (CIE) a (CIE) b (CIE) Chroma c ΔE (vs. Kerling 10-0) ΔE (vs. aqueous dye) A V1 55,90 62,13 A V2 68,74 17,96 18,80 26,00 19,26 44,40 A V3 40,71 50,85 35,96 62,28 64,39 7,49 A V4 38,66 50,36 35,64 61,70 65,13 6,12 A E1 39,80 51,25 36,37 62,84 65,33 7,59 B V1 33,02 75,68 B V2 68,35 -4,63 7,97 9,21 15,41 62,70 B V3 26,59 6,83 -34,91 35,58 74,47 7,05 B V4 21,46 10,85 -33,23 34,96 77,33 2,02 B E1 23,25 11,05 -35,63 37,30 77,73 4,59 C V1 71,16 53,31 C V2 75,59 1,71 22,96 23,03 4,49 49,00 C V3 70,82 6,25 62,01 62,33 43,85 11,23 C V4 66,62 14,52 71,81 73,26 55,61 2,44 C E1 68,90 12,26 70,74 71,80 53,66 2,06 D V1 52,65 58,1 D V2 43,53 44,86 28,26 53,02 56,40 3,19 D V3 44,64 44,25 27,84 52,28 55,18 4,30 D V4 46,01 44,54 26,91 52,04 54,47 5,78 D E1 43,61 46,79 27,99 54,52 57,83 3,96 E V1 17,91 52,14 E V2 47,40 15,72 3,28 16,06 37,15 15,79 E V3 38,91 17,51 0,98 17,54 45,81 6,89 E V4 32,03 17,91 -4,27 18,41 53,93 4,35 E E1 28,91 18,94 -5,98 19,86 57,63 6,92

[0118] Overall, the formulation E1 according to the invention has above-average properties in terms of color absorption, color intensity and chromaticity compared to conventional formulations.

Claims

[1] Agent for coloring keratin fibers, in particular human hair, containing in a cosmetic carrier (a) At least one direct dye, including HC Blue 16, (b) at least one amphoteric surfactant in a total amount of 3.0 to 7.0 wt.%, based on the weight of the composition, and (c) at least one alkyl polyglycoside in a total amount of 0.5 to 4.0% by weight, based on the weight of the composition, characterized by that the total weight-related content of amphoteric surfactant (b) in the agent - based on the weight of the agent - is greater than the total weight-related content of alkyl polyglycoside (c), furthermore characterized by that the amphoteric surfactant cocoamidopropyl betaine ((C 11 H 23 )C(O)NH(C 3 H 6 )N(NH 2 ) 2 CH 2 C(O)O) is contained, furthermore characterized bythat the alkylpolyglycoside contained is an alkylpolyglucoside with an alkyl radical comprising 10 to 20 carbon atoms, furthermore characterized by that the agent contains 0 to ≤ 0.2 wt.%, based on the weight of the agent, of surfactants containing a sulfate group (-OSO 3 ) and continue characterized by that the agent contains less than 0.2% by weight of sodium chloride. [2] Agent according to claim 1, characterized by that the total content of amphoteric surfactant (b) and alkyl polyglycoside (c) together is 3.5 to 11.0 wt.%, based on the total weight of the agent. [3] Agent according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized by that the amphoteric surfactant (b) cocoamidopropyl betaine ((C 11 H 23 )C(O)NH(C 3 H 6 )N(NH 2 ) 2 CH 2 C(O)O) and the alkyl polyglucoside (c) is lauryl glycoside. [4] Agent according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized bythat the mean 0 to ≤ 0.15 wt.%, based on the weight of the agent, of surfactants containing a sulfate group (-OSO 3 ) include. [5] Agent according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized by that the agent comprises ≤ 0.2 wt.%, based on the total weight of the agent, of anionic surfactants. [6] Agent according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized by that at least one direct dye is present in a total amount of 0.01 to 7% by weight, based on the weight of the colorant. [7] Agent according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized by that the agent further comprises at least one associative thickener. [8] Means according to claim 7, characterized by that the associative thickener is selected from cetylhydroxyethylcellulose. [9] Agent according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized by that the agent further comprises at least one film former. [10] Means according to claim 9, characterized by that the film former is selected from Polyquaternium-37. [11] Agent according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized by that the agent comprises cetylhydroxyethylcellulose and polyquaternium-37 in combination. [12] A method for coloring keratin fibers, in particular human hair, in which an agent according to any one of claims 1-11 is applied to the keratin fibers.