Cosmetic shake emulsion with high sun protection factor

Abstract

Cosmetic shake emulsion based on an O / W emulsion containing a) one or more UV filter substances, b) Polyglyceryl-6 Stearates and Polyglyceryl-6 Behenates c) the preparation is free from polyacrylates (INCI: Carbomers), 2-ethylhexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (INCI: Ethylhexyl Salicylate) and 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (INCI: Homosalate), 3-(4-methylbenzylidene)-camphor, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (INCI: Oxybenzone), ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: Octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl 3-(4-methoxyphenyl)prop-2-enoate (INCI: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate) and EDTA and d) the preparation has a viscosity of less than 2000 mPas, preferably less than 1000 mPas.

Description

The present invention relates to a cosmetic shaking emulsion based on an O / W emulsion comprising one or more UV filter substances, polyglyceryl-6 stearates and polyglyceryl-6 behenates, wherein the preparation is free from polyacrylates (INCI: carbomers), octocrylene, 2-ethylhexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (INCI: ethylhexyl salicylate) and 3,3,5 trimethylcyclohexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (INCI: homosalate), 3-(4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (INCI: oxybenzone), ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: octocrylene), 2-Ethylhexyl 3-(4-methoxyphenyl)prop-2-enoate (INCI: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate) and EDTA and the preparation has a viscosity of less than 2000 mPas, preferably below 1000 mPas.The desire to look pleasing and attractive is natural rooted in humans. Even if the beauty ideal has undergone transformations over time, the aim of keeping the external ear free has always been the goal of humans. A substantial proportion of a pleasing and attractive appearance is the condition and appearance of the skin.Skin care products generally consist of emulsions. Emulsions are generally understood to mean heterogeneous systems which consist of two liquids which are immiscible or only sparingly miscible with one another, and which are usually referred to as phases, and in which one of the two liquids is dispersed in the other liquid in the form of very fine droplets. Emulsions appear homogeneous externally and viewed with the naked eye.If the two liquids are water and oil and if oil droplets are present in finely divided form in water, this is an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion, for example milk). The basic character of an O / W emulsion is characterized by the water. A water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion is the reverse principle, the basic character here being determined by the oil.However, the large number of commercially available cosmetic emulsions must not deceive that these preparations of the prior art have a number of disadvantages.A particular form of cosmetic emulsions is the "shaking emulsions". These are emulsions which separate completely into their phases again at room temperature at rest within 48 hours.In cosmetics, it is usually the aim of the developers to produce emulsions which are stable over a long period of time. However, consumers also wish two-phase systems which are homogenized by shaking before use. In order to meet the play performance of consumers and to be able to utilize the optical effects of two-phase systems, there is therefore, in addition to the emulsions which are stable over a long period of time, also a need for multiphase emulsions which combine the care properties with the sensory advantages of single-phase systems. It was therefore the object of the present invention to develop such a "shaking emulsion".The stability of emulsions is dependent on a large number of factors. In addition to the emulsifier system, polymers (e.g. polyacrylates) and the individual constituents of the oil phase and water phase also have an influence on the tendency toward phase separation. For example, the effect of salts in the water phase is known, which results in the polarity of the water phase being increased and the phases being separated more quickly.If, moreover, the cosmetic preparation is intended to function as sunscreen agents by addition of UV filter substances, the complexity of the problem is further increased: sulfonic acid salts in the aqueous phase, influence the polarity of the aqueous phase and may have a surface-active effect under certain circumstances.Relatively sparingly soluble lipophilic UV filter substances such as the triazines or (tert-butyl)-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane must be kept in solution.Not least, the phase arrangement O / W emulsion or W / O emulsion and the polarity of the oil phase influence the light protection factor which can be achieved with the preparation.According to the prior art, it has been customary up to now to effect the dissolution of the sparingly soluble organic UV filter substances and the polarity of the lipophilic phase with the aid of UV filters which are liquid at room temperature. This was effected, for example, with ethylhexyl salicylates, homosalates, octocrylenes and / or ethylhexyl methoxycinnamates. These compounds not only solved the stability problems but also provided the formulations with high UV protection.For some years, however, the use of these liquid UV filters has been increasingly undesirable at the consumer. There are also public discussions of the use of synthetic polymers such as the polyacrylates or the use of EDTA. Whether the concerns about the use of these compounds are scientifically true may remain within the scope of the present disclosure. However, the fact is that consumers require preparations which avoid these ingredients.It was therefore the object of the present invention to develop a "shaking emulsion" which is free of these UV filter substances. However, since there is still a need for high photoprotective factors, the formulation to be developed should have a photoprotective factor (SPF) of at least 50.The object is achieved by a cosmetic shaking emulsion based on an O / W emulsion comprising a) one or more UV filter substances, b) polyglyceryl-6 stearates and polyglyceryl-6 behenates c), wherein the preparation is free from polyacrylates (INCI: carbomers), 2-ethylhexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (INCI: ethylhexyl salicylate) and 3,3,5 trimethylcyclohexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (INCI: homosalate), 3-(4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (INCI: oxybenzone), ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: octocrylene), 2-Ethylhexyl 3-(4-methoxyphenyl)prop-2-enoate (INCI: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate) and EDTA and d) the preparation has a viscosity of less than 2000 mPas, preferably below 1000 mPas, measured with a rotational viscometer (Rheomat 123, spindle / measuring body VT01, from proRh) at 25° C.According to the invention, "shaking emulsion based on an O / W emulsion" is understood to mean an oil-in-water emulsion which separates completely back into its phases within one to three hours at room temperature (25° C.) in the Lumifugen test. The Lumifugeen test is carried out in the centrifuge "LUMIFuge" from LUM GmbH at a rotational speed of 1173 U / min. (200 g) and Light Factor 1 at 25° C.The embodiments of the present invention which are advantageous according to the invention are characterized in that the preparation comprises polymers from the group of gums, starches and celluloses in a concentration of at most 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.As can be seen from the comparative experiment (see below), higher contents of these natural polymers lead to a higher viscosity and to a marked drop in the light protection factor SPF measured in vivo.It is furthermore advantageous according to the invention if the preparation according to the invention contains polyglyceryl-6 stearates and polyglyceryl-6 behenates in a total concentration of 0.01 to 3 wt %, preferably less than 2 wt %, based on the total weight of the preparation.Embodiments of the present invention which are advantageous according to the invention are also characterized in that the preparation comprises glyceryl stearate in a concentration of from 0.01 to 1.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.It is also advantageous in the context of the present invention if the cosmetic shaking emulsion contains sodium salts of ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (INCI: trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate) in a concentration of 0.01 to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.According to the invention, it is preferred if the cosmetic shaking emulsion is characterized in that the preparation comprises hexyl 2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl] benzoate (INCI: diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate) and / or 4-(tert-butyl)-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane.The concentration of hexyl 2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl] benzoate (INCI: diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate) which is advantageous according to the invention is from 0.01 to 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.The concentration of 4-(tert-butyl)-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane used, which is advantageous according to the invention, is from 0.01 to 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.Cosmetic shaking emulsions preferred according to the invention are furthermore characterized in that the preparation comprises 2,4,6-tris-[anilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)]-1,3,5-triazine (INCI: ethylhexyl triad) and / or 2,4-bis-{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxyphenyl]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (INCI: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine).The concentration of 2,4,6-tris-[anilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)]-1,3,5-triazine (INCI: ethylhexyl triad) which is advantageous according to the invention is from 0.01 to 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.The concentration of 2,4-bis{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (INCI: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine) which is advantageous according to the invention is from 0.01 to 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.It is also advantageous according to the invention if the preparation contains 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid salts. In this case, the sodium salt is particularly preferred according to the invention.The concentration of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid salts which is advantageous according to the invention is from 0.01 to 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.Cosmetic shaking emulsions advantageous according to the invention are also characterized in that the preparation comprises one or more lipids selected from the group of the compounds di-n-butyl adipate, isopropyl palmitate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / diaprate, C12-15 alkl benzoate and / or carnauba wax.The concentration of di-n-butyl adipate used, which is advantageous according to the invention, is from 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.The concentration of isopropyl palmitate used, which is advantageous according to the invention, is from 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.The concentration of butylene glycol dicaprylate / diaprate used, which is advantageous according to the invention, is from 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.The concentration of C12-15alklbenzoate used, which is advantageous according to the invention, is from 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.The concentration of carnauba wax which is advantageous according to the invention is from 0.01 to 5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.According to the invention, it is advantageous not least if the preparation contains hydroxypropyl starch phosphate in a use concentration of at most 0.3% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.Comparative TestThe following formulations were prepared and the in vivo light protection factor determined.Hydroxyacetophenones0.350.35Dibutyl adipates3.003.00Isopropyl palmitate6.006.00Butylene Glycol Dicaprylates / Dicaprate4.004.00Copernicia cerifera cera0.300.30C12-15 Alkyl benzoates6.006.00Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate+Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate1.501.50Glyceryl Stearates0.500.50Starch Starch3.503.50Perfume0.500.50Glycerol+Aqua1.001.00Aqua+So Hydroxides0.650.65Phenoxyethanol+0.400.40Alcohol Dent.+Aqua7.007.00Aqua aqua aquaAD 100 AD 100 AD 100 AD 100 AD 100 AD 100 AD 100 AD 100 AD 100 AD 100 ADAD 100 AD 100 AD 100 AD 100 AD 100 AD 100 AD 100 AD 100 AD 100 AD 100 ADAqua+Tris Ethylenediamine Disuccinates0.500.50Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazines2.802.80Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate1.801.80Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethanes4.504.50Ethylhexyl Triazone3.503.50Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid2.002.00Cetearyl alcohol0.600.60Dustarch Phosphates00.50Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose0.100.10Xanthan gum0.100.40Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate0.100.75Total: total:100.00100.00SPF in vivo: 81,3SPF in vivo: 45,1Vis: 800 mPas (1 d)Vis: 3750 mPas (1 d)

Claims

A cosmetic shaking emulsion based on an O / W emulsion comprising a) one or more UV filter substances, b) polyglyceryl-6 stearates and polyglyceryl-6 behenates c), wherein the preparation is free from polyacrylates (INCI: carbomers), 2-ethylhexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (INCI: ethylhexyl salicylate) and 3,3,5 trimethylcyclohexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (INCI: homosalate), 3-(4-methylbenzylidene)-camphor, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (INCI: oxybenzone), ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: octocrylene), 2-Ethylhexyl 3-(4-methoxyphenyl)prop-2-enoate (INCI: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate) and EDTA and d) the preparation has a viscosity of less than 2000 mPas, preferably below 1000 mPas, measured with a rotational viscometer (Rheomat 123, spindle / measuring body VT01, from proRh) at 25° C.Cosmetic shaking emulsion according to Claim 1, characterized in that the preparation comprises polymers from the group of gums, starches and celluloses in a concentration of at most 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.Cosmetic shaking emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation comprises polyglyceryl-6 stearates and polyglyceryl-6 behenates in a total concentration of 0.01 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.Cosmetic shaking emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation comprises glyceryl stearate in a concentration of 0.01 to 1.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.Cosmetic shaking emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation comprises sodium salts of ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (INCI: trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate) in a concentration of from 0.01 to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.Cosmetic shaking emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation comprises hexyl 2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]benzoate (INCI: diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate) and / or 4 (tert-butyl)-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane.Cosmetic shaking emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation comprises 2,4,6-tris-[anilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)]-1,3,5-triazine (INCI: ethylhexyl triad) and / or 2,4-bis-{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxyphenyl]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (INCI: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine).Cosmetic shaking emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation comprises 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid salts.Cosmetic shaking emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation comprises one or more lipids selected from the group of the compounds di-n-butyl adipate, isopropyl palmitate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / diaprate, C12-15 alkl benzoate and / or carnauba wax.Cosmetic shaking emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation comprises hydroxypropyl starch phosphate in a use concentration of at most 0.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.