Anhydrous agent for coloring keratin material, especially human hair, containing aminosilicones, pigments and certain alkylene glycols
Patent Information
- Application Number
- DE502022004926
- Authority / Receiving Office
- DE · DE
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2021-04-20
- Filing Date
- 2022-03-28
- Publication Date
- 2025-08-28
- Estimated Expiration
- 2042-03-28
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair coloring methods, particularly oxidative hair coloring, suffer from long-term durability issues and hair damage, while direct dyes provide less durable color results, and there is a need for alternative, high-performance colorants with improved washfastness and rubfastness.
An anhydrous agent containing alkylene glycol, pigment, and amino-functionalized silicone polymer, along with an addition product of alkylene oxide onto fatty acids and aromatic alcohols, is used to dye keratinic materials, ensuring long-lasting color results with good washfastness and rubfastness.
The agent achieves particularly intensive and uniform coloration with improved washfastness and rubfastness, addressing the limitations of existing hair coloring methods by providing a durable and damage-free coloring process.
Description
[0001] The present application relates to an anhydrous agent for coloring keratinic material, in particular human hair, which contains at least one alkylene glycol of a specific formula (a1), at least one pigment (a2), at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a3) and at least one addition product of C 1 -C 6 alkylene oxide(s) onto the esters of C 12 -C 30 fatty acids and aromatic C 1 -C 12 alcohols (a4).
[0002] Another subject of this application is a method for dyeing keratinic material, in particular human hair, wherein the agent described above is applied to the keratinic material and optionally rinsed out again after a contact time of 30 seconds to 45 minutes.
[0003] Altering the shape and color of keratinous material, especially human hair, represents an important area of modern cosmetics. Depending on the coloring requirements, hair coloring specialists are familiar with various coloring systems. For permanent, intense colorings with good fastness properties and good gray coverage, oxidation dyes are typically used. Such dyes contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components, and coupler components, which, under the influence of oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, form the actual dyes. Oxidation dyes are characterized by very long-lasting coloring results.
[0004] When using direct dyes, the fully formed pigments diffuse from the dyeing agent into the hair fiber. Compared to oxidative hair coloring, the colors obtained with direct dyes are less durable and wash out more quickly. Colorations with direct dyes typically remain on the hair for between 5 and 20 washes.
[0005] The use of color pigments is known for temporary color changes on hair and / or skin. Color pigments are generally understood to be insoluble, color-imparting substances. These are present undissolved in the form of small particles in the coloring formulation and are deposited only externally on the hair fibers and / or the skin surface. Therefore, they can usually be removed without residue after several washes with surfactant-containing cleansers. Various products of this type are available on the market under the name hair mascara.
[0006] If the user desires particularly long-lasting color results, the use of oxidative colorants has so far been the only option. However, despite numerous optimization attempts, an unpleasant ammonia or amine odor cannot be completely avoided with oxidative hair coloring. The hair damage still associated with the use of oxidative colorants also has a detrimental effect on the user's hair. Therefore, a continuing challenge remains the search for alternative, high-performance colorants and coloring processes. Pigment-based coloring systems have been in particular focus recently.
[0007] The Mintel database describes a water-free hair treatment product called "Powder Foundation Long Keep SP Refill" (Record ID 5988067). The INCI of this product lists PEG-8, various pigments such as synthetic fluorphlogopite, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and iron oxides, as well as an aminosilicone.
[0008] Another product from the Mintel database is "CG All Over Face Primer" (Record ID 6466531). The INCI of this product does not include water, caprylyl glycol, various pigments, and amodimethicone.
[0009] The product described in Mintel, called "Gel Shampoo Rinse-In" (Record ID 2286489), contains butylene glycol, the pigments CI 61570 and CI 15985, and amodimethicone.
[0010] WO 2020 / 260097 A1 describes anhydrous compositions containing at least one aminosilicone, an alkoxysiloxane of formula (VIII) and a coloring compound, which may also be a pigment.
[0011] The object of the present invention was to provide a colorant that enables pigments to be fixed to the hair in an extremely permanent manner. When used in a coloring process, the agent should achieve particularly intensive coloring results with good washfastness, good rubfastness, good leveling ability, and a particularly uniform color result.
[0012] Surprisingly, it has now been found that the above-mentioned object can be excellently achieved if keratinic material, in particular human hair, is dyed with an anhydrous agent which contains at least alkylene glycol of the formula (AG) (a1), at least one pigment (a2), at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a3) and at least one addition product of C 1 -C 6 alkylene oxide(s) onto the esters of C 12 -C 30 fatty acids and aromatic C 1 -C 12 alcohols (a4).
[0013] A first subject of the present invention is an anhydrous agent for coloring keratinic material, in particular human hair, containing (a1) at least alkylene glycol of formula (AG) where x is an integer from 0 to 10,000, y is an integer from 0 to 10,000, Ra, Rb independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group or a hydroxy-C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, Rc is a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, a phenyl group or a benzyl group, with the proviso that x + y is at least 1, and (a2) at least one pigment, and (a3) at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer, and (a4) at least one addition product of C 1 -C 6 alkylene oxide(s) with the esters of C 12 -C 30 fatty acids and aromatic C 1 -C 12 alcohols.
[0014] In the course of the work leading to this invention, it was discovered that particularly good color results could be achieved when the pigment(s) were applied to the keratin material, particularly human hair, in a mixture with at least one alkylene glycol of formula (AG) and at least one aminosilicone in the form of an anhydrous system. In particular, the washfastness and rubfastness of the colored hair could be improved. keratin material
[0015] Keratinous material includes hair, skin, and nails (such as fingernails and / or toenails). Wool, fur, and feathers also fall under the definition of keratinous material.
[0016] Keratin material is preferably understood to mean human hair, human skin, and human nails, especially fingernails and toenails. Keratin material is most preferably understood to mean human hair. Coloring agents
[0017] In the context of this invention, the term "coloring agent" refers to the coloring of keratin material, particularly hair, caused by the use of pigments. In this coloring process, the pigments, as color-imparting compounds, are deposited in a particularly homogeneous and uniform film on the surface of the keratin material.
[0018] According to the invention, the colorant is a ready-to-use agent. This ready-to-use agent can, for example, be filled into a container and applied in this form to the keratin material without further dilution, mixing, or other processing steps. For reasons of storage stability, however, it has proven particularly preferred if the ready-to-use cosmetic agent is prepared by the hairdresser or user shortly before use. To prepare the ready-to-use agent, for example, the mixture or pre-dispersion of alkylene glycol of formula (AG) (a1) and pigment (a2) can be carried out with one or more further agents, wherein one of these further agents contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a3).However, it is equally conceivable that the ready-to-use agent is produced by blending at least three different agents, one of which contains at least one alkylene glycol of formula (AG) (a1), another agent contains at least one pigment (a2), and yet another agent contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a3). The agents can be mixed, for example, by shaking, thus ensuring a particularly uniform distribution of the dispersed pigments. A characteristic of the ready-to-use agent is that it is anhydrous. anhydrous agent
[0019] The agent according to the invention is anhydrous. In the context of the present invention, the term anhydrous means that no water is intentionally added to the agent as a separate component. To achieve certain desired application properties, it may be advantageous to add ingredients to the agent that are hygroscopic or that contain water as an unavoidable secondary component. In this case, anhydrous means that the agent - based on its total weight - contains less than 1.0 wt.% water, preferably less than 0.5 wt.% water, more preferably less than 0.1 wt.% water, and very particularly preferably less than 0.01 wt.% water. The agent according to the invention explicitly contains 0 wt.% water.
[0020] In other words, a first object of the present invention is an agent for coloring keratinic material, in particular human hair, containing (a1) at least alkylene glycol of formula (AG) where x is an integer from 0 to 10,000, y is an integer from 0 to 10,000, Ra, Rb independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group or a hydroxy-C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, Rc is a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, a phenyl group or a benzyl group, with the proviso that x + y is at least 1, and (a2) at least one pigment, and (a3) at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer, and (a4) at least one addition product of C 1 -C 6 alkylene oxide(s) onto the esters of C 12 -C 30 fatty acids and aromatic C 1 -C 12 alcohols, wherein the agent contains - based on its total weight - less than 1.0 wt.% water, preferably less than 0.5 wt.% water, more preferably less than 0.1 wt.% water, even more preferably less than 0.01 wt.% water and most preferably 0 wt.% water. Alkylene glycols of the formula (AG-I) (a1)
[0021] As the first component (a1) essential to the invention, the agent according to the invention contains at least one alkylene glycol of the formula (AG) where x represents an integer from 0 to 10000, y represents an integer from 0 to 10000, Ra, Rb independently represent a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group or a hydroxy-C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, Rc represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, a phenyl group or a benzyl group, with the proviso that x + y is at least 1, and
[0022] Surprisingly, it has been found that the use of at least one specific alkylene glycol of formula (AG) greatly improves the wash resistance of the colorations after application of the agent according to the invention to the keratin material.
[0023] The alkylene glycols of formula (AG) are protic substances containing at least one hydroxyl group. The substituents Ra, Rb, Rc in the compounds of formula (AG-I) are exemplified below: Examples of a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group are the groups methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, s-butyl and t-butyl, n-pentyl, and n-hexyl. Propyl, ethyl, and methyl are preferred alkyl radicals. Preferred examples of a hydroxy-C 1 -C 6 alkyl group are a hydroxymethyl, a 2-hydroxyethyl, a 2-hydroxypropyl, a 3-hydroxypropyl, a 4-hydroxybutyl, a 5-hydroxypentyl, and a 6-hydroxyhexyl group; the hydroxymethyl group and the 2-hydroxyethyl group are particularly preferred.
[0024] By varying the residues Ra, Rb and Rc as well as x and y, the polarity of the alkylene glycol (AG) can be adjusted and the viscosity of the agent according to the invention can be influenced.
[0025] In the alkylene glycols (a1) of formula (AG), x can be an integer from 0 to 10,000. The radical y can be an integer from 0 to 10,000. The sum of x and y must be at least 1. If y is 0, the radicals Ra and Rb are nonexistent in the alkylene glycols of formula (AG).
[0026] The radical R c represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, a phenyl group, or a benzyl group. In this embodiment, it is furthermore particularly preferred if R c represents a hydrogen atom.
[0027] The use of certain alkylene glycols of formula (AG) has proven particularly suitable for producing dyes with good washfastness and good rubfastness. Thus, the use of polyethylene glycols is particularly preferred in this embodiment.
[0028] Polyethylene glycols are alkylene glycols of the formula (AG) where x is an integer from 1 to 10,000, in particular an integer from 2 to 10,000, and y is the number 0. Rc is a hydrogen atom.
[0029] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains (a1) at least alkylene glycol of the formula (AG), where x stands for an integer from 1 to 10000, and y stands for the number 0, and Rc stands for a hydrogen atom.
[0030] The corresponding polyethylene glycols are the compounds of formula (AG-1), where x1 represents an integer from 1 to 10000.
[0031] In the course of the work leading to this invention, it has been found that polyethylene glycols are particularly suitable for improving the fastness properties of the dyes and for optimally adjusting the viscosity of the dyes.
[0032] Depending on their chain length, polyethylene glycols are liquid or solid, water-soluble polymers. Polyethylene glycols with a molecular weight between 200 g / mol and 400 g / mol are non-volatile liquids at room temperature. PEG 600 has a melting range of 17 to 22 °C and thus a paste-like consistency. With molecular weights above 3000 g / mol, PEGs are solid substances and are marketed as flakes or powders.
[0033] The use of low-molecular-weight polyethylene glycols has proven particularly suitable for achieving the object of the invention. For low-molecular-weight polyethylene glycols within the meaning of the present invention, x1 represents an integer from 1 to 100, preferably an integer from 1 to 80, more preferably an integer from 2 to 60, even more preferably an integer from 3 to 40, even more preferably an integer from 4 to 20, and most preferably an integer from 6 to 15.
[0034] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains (a1) at least one alkylene glycol of the formula (AG-1), where x1 represents an integer from 1 to 100, preferably an integer from 1 to 80, more preferably an integer from 2 to 60, even more preferably an integer from 3 to 40, even more preferably an integer from 4 to 20 and most preferably an integer from 6 to 15.
[0035] A particularly preferred low-molecular-weight polyethylene glycol is PEG-8. PEG-8 comprises 8 ethylene glycol units (x1 = 8), has an average molecular weight of 400 g / mol, and bears the CAS number 25322-68-3. PEG-8 is also known as PEG 400 and is commercially available, for example, from APS.
[0036] Other suitable low molecular weight polyethylene glycols include PEG-6, PEG-7, PEG-9 and PEG-10.
[0037] Another suitable polyethylene glycol is PEG-32. PEG-32 contains 32 ethylene glycol units (x1 = 32), has an average molecular weight of 1500 g / mol, and carries the CAS number 25322-68-3. PEG-32 is also known as PEG 1500 and can be purchased commercially, for example, from Clariant.
[0038] Furthermore, the use of high molecular weight polyethylene glycols has also proven to be well suited to solving the problem according to the invention.
[0039] High molecular weight polyethylene glycols in the sense of the present invention can be represented by the formula (AG-2), where the index number x2 stands for an integer from 101 to 10000
[0040] In the case of particularly suitable high molecular weight polyethylene glycols, x2 represents an integer from 101 to 1000, preferably an integer from 105 to 800, more preferably an integer from 107 to 600, even more preferably an integer from 109 to 400 and most preferably an integer from 110 to 200.
[0041] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains (a1) at least one alkylene glycol of the formula (AG-2), where x2 represents an integer from 101 to 1000, preferably an integer from 105 to 800, more preferably an integer from 107 to 600, even more preferably an integer from 109 to 400 and most preferably an integer from 110 to 200.
[0042] A particularly suitable high-molecular-weight polyethylene glycol is PEG 6000, which is commercially available from National Starch (China). The molecular weight of PEG 6000 is between 6000 and 7500 g / mol, corresponding to a x2 value of 136 to 171.
[0043] Another suitable polyethylene glycol is PEG 12000, which is marketed commercially by CG Chemicals, for example, under the trade name Polyethylene Glycol 12000 S (or PEG 12000 S). The molecular weight of PEG 12000 is stated to be between 10,500 and 15,000 g / mol, corresponding to a x2 value of 238 to 341.
[0044] Another suitable polyethylene glycol is PEG 20000, which is commercially available from Clariant under the trade name Polyglycol 20000 P or under the alternative name PEG-350. PEG 20000 has an average molecular weight of 20000 g / mol, which corresponds to a x2 value of 454.
[0045] Surprisingly, it has been found that colorants containing both a low molecular weight alkylene glycol (AG-1) and a high molecular weight alkylene glycol (AG-2) have particularly good application properties, since these agents have both very good fastness properties and are optimized with regard to their rheological profile.
[0046] Within the scope of a further explicitly particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is therefore characterized in that it (a11) contains at least one first alkylene glycol of formula (AG-1), wherein x1 represents an integer from 1 to 100, preferably an integer from 1 to 80, more preferably an integer from 2 to 60, even more preferably an integer from 3 to 40, even more preferably an integer from 4 to 20 and most preferably an integer from 6 to 15, and (a12) contains at least one second alkylene glycol of the formula (AG-2), where x2 represents an integer from 101 to 1000, preferably an integer from 105 to 800, more preferably an integer from 107 to 600, even more preferably an integer from 109 to 400 and most preferably an integer from 110 to 200.
[0047] In a further embodiment, the agent according to the invention may also contain at least one alkylene glycol of the formula (AG-3), where y1 represents an integer from 1 to 1000, preferably an integer from 3 to 100, particularly preferably an integer from 5 to 50, Ra', Rb' independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, wherein preferably one of the radicals Ra' and Rb' represents a hydrogen atom and the remaining of the two radicals represents a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, preferably a methyl group, and Rc' represents a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group.
[0048] In a further preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is therefore characterized in that it contains (a1) at least alkylene glycol of the formula (AG-3), where y1 represents an integer from 1 to 1000, preferably an integer from 3 to 100, particularly preferably an integer from 5 to 50, Ra', Rb' independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, wherein preferably one of the radicals Ra' and Rb' represents a hydrogen atom and the remaining of the two radicals represents a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, preferably a methyl group, and Rc' represents a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group.
[0049] A particularly suitable alkylene glycol of formula (AG-3) is propylene glycol monobutyl ether, also known as PPG-14 butyl ether and bearing the CAS number 9003-13-8. PPG-14 butyl ether can be purchased commercially from Dow under the trade name Ucon Fluid AP.
[0050] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is therefore further characterized in that it contains (a1) PPG-14 butyl ether.
[0051] The alkylene glycol of formula (AG-3) can be used either as the sole alkylene glycol or in combination with other alkylene glycols, in particular the alkylene glycols of formula (AG-1) and / or (AG-2).
[0052] Very good effects can therefore be obtained with an agent according to the invention, which is characterized in that it (a11) contains at least one alkylene glycol of formula (AG-1), wherein x1 represents an integer from 1 to 100, preferably an integer from 1 to 80, more preferably an integer from 2 to 60, even more preferably an integer from 3 to 40, even more preferably an integer from 4 to 20 and most preferably an integer from 6 to 15, and (a13) contains at least alkylene glycol of the formula (AG-3), where y1 represents an integer from 1 to 1000, preferably an integer from 3 to 100, particularly preferably an integer from 5 to 50, Ra', Rb' independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, wherein preferably one of the radicals Ra' and Rb' represents a hydrogen atom and the remaining of the two radicals represents a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, preferably a methyl group, and Rc' represents a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group.
[0053] Good effects can also be obtained with a means according to the invention, which is characterized by the fact that it (a12) contains at least one alkylene glycol of formula (AG-2), wherein x2 represents an integer from 101 to 1000, preferably an integer from 105 to 800, more preferably an integer from 107 to 600, even more preferably an integer from 109 to 400 and most preferably an integer from 110 to 200, and (a13) contains at least alkylene glycol of the formula (AG-3), where y1 represents an integer from 1 to 1000, preferably an integer from 3 to 100, particularly preferably an integer from 5 to 50, Ra', Rb' independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, wherein preferably one of the radicals Ra' and Rb' represents a hydrogen atom and the remaining of the two radicals represents a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, preferably a methyl group, and Rc' represents a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group.
[0054] Very good effects can also be obtained with a means according to the invention, which is characterized by the fact that it (a11) contains at least one alkylene glycol of formula (AG-1), wherein x1 represents an integer from 1 to 100, preferably an integer from 1 to 80, more preferably an integer from 2 to 60, even more preferably an integer from 3 to 40, even more preferably an integer from 4 to 20 and most preferably an integer from 6 to 15, and (a12) contains at least one alkylene glycol of the formula (AG-2), where x2 represents an integer from 101 to 1000, preferably an integer from 105 to 800, more preferably an integer from 107 to 600, even more preferably an integer from 109 to 400 and most preferably an integer from 110 to 200, and (a13) contains at least alkylene glycol of the formula (AG-3), where y1 represents an integer from 1 to 1000, preferably an integer from 3 to 100, particularly preferably an integer from 5 to 50, Ra', Rb' independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, wherein preferably one of the radicals Ra' and Rb' represents a hydrogen atom and the remaining of the two radicals represents a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, preferably a methyl group, and Rc' represents a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group.
[0055] Since the agent according to the invention is anhydrous, components other than water must also be selected for the cosmetic carrier of the agent. In this context, it has proven particularly preferred if the alkylene glycol(s) (AG), and in particular the particularly preferred compounds of the formula (AG-1), (AG-2) and / or (AG-3), themselves function as cosmetic carrier substances. For this purpose, the alkylene glycols (AG) are particularly preferably used in the correspondingly high quantity ranges in the agent according to the invention. These amounts can, for example, be in the range from 10.0 to 99.0 wt. %, preferably from 30.0 to 99.0 wt. %, more preferably from 50.0 to 99.0 wt. %, and very particularly preferably from 70.0 to 99.0 wt. %, based on the total weight of the agent.
[0056] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains - based on the total weight of the agent - one or more alkylene glycols of the formula (AG) (a1) in a total amount of 10.0 to 99.0 wt.%, preferably 30.0 to 99.0 wt.%, more preferably 50.0 to 99.0 wt.% and very particularly preferably 70.0 to 99.0 wt.%.
[0057] The agent according to the invention preferably contains - based on the total weight of the agent - (a11) one or more alkylene glycols of the formula (AG-1) in a total amount of 20.0 to 99.0 wt.%, preferably of 40.0 to 95.0 wt.%, particularly preferably of 60.0 to 90.0 wt.%.
[0058] The agent according to the invention preferably contains - based on the total weight of the agent - (a12) one or more alkylene glycols of the formula (AG-2) in a total amount of 1.0 to 35.0 wt.%, preferably 3.0 to 30.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 4.0 to 25.0 wt.%.
[0059] The agent according to the invention preferably contains - based on the total weight of the agent - (a13) one or more alkylene glycols of the formula (AG-3) in a total amount of 0.1 to 20.0 wt.%, preferably from 0.2 to 10.0 wt.%, even more preferably from 0.4 to 5.0 wt.%, even more preferably from 0.5 to 3.0 wt.% and very particularly preferably from 0.5 to 1.5 wt.%.
[0060] Within the scope of a further very particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains - based on the total weight of the agent - (a1) one or more alkylene glycols of the formula (AG-1) in a total amount of 20.0 to 99.0 wt.%, preferably from 40.0 to 95.0 wt.%, particularly preferably from 60.0 to 90.0 wt.%, and / or it contains one or more alkylene glycols of the formula (AG-2) in a total amount of 1.0 to 35.0 wt.%, preferably from 3.0 to 30.0 wt.%, particularly preferably from 4.0 to 25.0 wt.%, and / or it contains one or more alkylene glycols of the formula (AG-3) in a total amount of 0.1 to 20.0 wt.%, preferably from 0.2 to 10.0 wt.%, particularly preferably from 0.4 to 5.0 wt.%.
[0061] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains - based on the total weight of the agent - (a11) contains one or more alkylene glycols of the formula (AG-1) in a total amount of 20.0 to 99.0 wt.%, and (a12) contains one or more alkylene glycols of the formula (AG-2) in a total amount of 1.0 to 35.0 wt.%.
[0062] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains - based on the total weight of the agent - (a11) contains one or more alkylene glycols of the formula (AG-1) in a total amount of 40.0 to 95.0 wt.%, and (a12) contains one or more alkylene glycols of the formula (AG-2) in a total amount of 3.0 to 30.0 wt.%.
[0063] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains - based on the total weight of the agent - (a11) contains one or more alkylene glycols of the formula (AG-1) in a total amount of 60.0 to 90.0 wt.%, and (a12) contains one or more alkylene glycols of the formula (AG-2) in a total amount of 4.0 to 25.0 wt.%.
[0064] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains - based on the total weight of the agent - (a11) contains one or more alkylene glycols of the formula (AG-1) in a total amount of 20.0 to 99.0 wt.%, and (a12) contains one or more alkylene glycols of the formula (AG-2) in a total amount of 1.0 to 35.0 wt.%, and (a13) contains one or more alkylene glycols of the formula (Ag-3) in a total amount of 0.1 to 20.0 wt.%.
[0065] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains - based on the total weight of the agent - (a11) contains one or more alkylene glycols of the formula (AG-1) in a total amount of 40.0 to 95.0 wt.%, and (a12) contains one or more alkylene glycols of the formula (AG-2) in a total amount of 3.0 to 30.0 wt.%, (a13) contains one or more alkylene glycols of the formula (Ag-3) in a total amount of 0.2 to 10.0 wt.%.
[0066] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains - based on the total weight of the agent - (a11) contains one or more alkylene glycols of the formula (AG-1) in a total amount of 60.0 to 90.0 wt.%, and (a12) contains one or more alkylene glycols of the formula (AG-2) in a total amount of 4.0 to 25.0 wt.%, and (a13) contains one or more alkylene glycols of the formula (Ag-3) in a total amount of 0.4 to 5.0 wt.%.
[0067] It is understood that the sum of (a1) all alkylene glycols (AG), pigments (a2), and amino-functionalized silicone polymers (a3) contained in the product cannot exceed 100 wt.%. If other optional ingredients are also present in the product, the total of (a1), (a2), and (a3) is reduced accordingly to values below 100 wt.%. Pigments (a2)
[0068] As a second essential component, the agent according to the invention contains at least one pigment (a2). Pigments within the meaning of the present invention are understood to be color-imparting compounds which, at 25°C, have a solubility in water of less than 0.5 g / L, preferably less than 0.1 g / L, and even more preferably less than 0.05 g / L. Water solubility can be determined, for example, using the method described below: 0.5 g of the pigment is weighed into a beaker. A stir bar is added. Then, one liter of distilled water is added. This mixture is heated to 25°C for one hour while stirring on a magnetic stirrer. If undissolved components of the pigment are still visible in the mixture after this period, the solubility of the pigment is below 0.5 g / L.If the pigment-water mixture cannot be visually assessed due to the high intensity of the finely dispersed pigment, the mixture is filtered. If a portion of undissolved pigment remains on the filter paper, the pigment's solubility is below 0.5 g / L.
[0069] Suitable color pigments can be of inorganic and / or organic origin.
[0070] In a preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one color-providing compound (a2) from the group of inorganic and / or organic pigments.
[0071] Preferred color pigments are selected from synthetic or natural inorganic pigments. Inorganic color pigments of natural origin can be made from chalk, ochre, umber, green earth, burnt sienna, or graphite, for example. Other inorganic color pigments that can be used include black pigments such as iron oxide black, colored pigments such as ultramarine or iron oxide red, as well as fluorescent or phosphorescent pigments.
[0072] Particularly suitable are colored metal oxides, hydroxides, and oxide hydrates, mixed-phase pigments, sulfur-containing silicates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, chromates, and / or molybdates. Particularly preferred color pigments are black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and brown iron oxide (CI 77491), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarines (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, CI 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (CI 77289), iron blue (ferric ferrocyanide, CI 77510), and / or carmine (cochineal).
[0073] Also particularly preferred color pigments according to the invention are colored pearlescent pigments. These are typically based on mica and / or mica and can be coated with one or more metal oxides. Mica belongs to the class of layered silicates. The most important representatives of these silicates are muscovite, phlogopite, paragonite, biotite, lepidolite, and margarite. To produce pearlescent pigments in combination with metal oxides, the mica, predominantly muscovite or phlogopite, is coated with a metal oxide.
[0074] As an alternative to natural mica, synthetic mica, optionally coated with one or more metal oxides, can also be used as a pearlescent pigment. Particularly preferred pearlescent pigments are based on natural or synthetic mica and coated with one or more of the aforementioned metal oxides. The color of the respective pigments can be varied by varying the layer thickness of the metal oxide(s).
[0075] In a further preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one inorganic pigment (a2), which is preferably selected from the group of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments and / or colored pigments based on mica or mica, which are coated with at least one metal oxide and / or one metal oxychloride.
[0076] In a further preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one color-providing compound (a2) from the group of pigments selected from mica- or mica-based pigments coated with one or more metal oxides from the group of titanium dioxide (CI 77891), black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and / or brown iron oxide (CI 77491, CI 77499), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarines (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, CI 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (CI 77289), chromium oxide (CI 77288) and / or iron blue (ferric ferrocyanide, CI 77510).
[0077] Examples of particularly suitable color pigments are commercially available under the trade names Rona ®< , Colorona ®< , Xirona ®< , Dichrona ®< and Timiron ®< from Merck, Ariabel ®< and Unipure ®< from Sensient, Prestige ®< from Eckart Cosmetic Colors and Sunshine ®< from Sunstar.
[0078] Particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Colorona ®< are, for example: Colorona Copper, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Passion Orange, Merck, Mica, CI 77491 (Iron Oxides), Alumina Colorona Patina Silver, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE) Colorona RY, Merck, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), MICA, CI 75470 (CARMINE) Colorona Oriental Beige, Merck, MICA, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Dark Blue, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, FERRIC FERROCYANIDE Colorona Chameleon, Merck, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), MICA Colorona Aborigine Amber, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE) Colorona Blackstar Blue, Merck, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES), MICA Colorona Patagonian Purple, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77510 (FERRIC FERROCYANIDE) Colorona Red Brown, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE) Colorona Russet, Merck, CI 77491 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), MICA, CI 77891 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Imperial Red, Merck, MICA,TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891), D&C RED NO. 30 (CI 73360) Colorona Majestic Green, Merck, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), MICA, CI 77288 (CHROMIUM OXIDE GREENS) Colorona Light Blue, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891), FERRIC FERROCYANIDE (CI 77510) Colorona Red Gold, Merck, MICA, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Gold Plus MP 25, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891), IRON OXIDES (CI 77491) Colorona Carmine Red, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, CARMINE Colorona Blackstar Green, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Bordeaux, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Bronze, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Bronze Fine, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Fine Gold MP 20, Merck, MICA, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Sienna Fine, Merck, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), MICA Colorona Sienna, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Precious Gold, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide), Silica,CI 77491 (Iron oxides), Tin oxide Colorona Sun Gold Sparkle MP 29, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, IRON OXIDES, MICA, CI 77891, CI 77491 (EU) Colorona Mica Black, Merck, CI 77499 (Iron oxides), Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide) Colorona Bright Gold, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide), CI 77491(Iron oxides) Colorona Blackstar Gold, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES) ,
[0079] Other particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Xirona ®< are, for example: Xirona Golden Sky, Merck, Silica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Tin Oxide Xirona Caribbean Blue, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Silica, Tin Oxide Dioxide), Tin Oxide.
[0080] In addition, particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Unipure ®< are, for example: Unipure Red LC 381 EM, Sensient CI 77491 (Iron Oxides), Silica Unipure Black LC 989 EM, Sensient, CI 77499 (Iron Oxides), Silica Unipure Yellow LC 182 EM, Sensient, CI 77492 (Iron Oxides), Silica
[0081] Within the scope of a further embodiment, the agent according to the invention can also contain one or more color-providing compounds (a2) from the group of organic pigments. The organic pigments according to the invention are correspondingly insoluble, organic dyes or color lakes which can be selected, for example, from the group of nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, anthraquinone, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyorrole, indigo, thioindido, dioxazine, and / or triarylmethane compounds.
[0082] Particularly suitable organic pigments are, for example, carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments with the color index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the color index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the color index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the color index numbers CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the Color index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15630, CI 15800, CI 15850, CI 15865, CI 15880, CI 17200, CI 26100, CI 45380, CI 45410, CI 58000, CI 73360, CI 73915 and / or CI 75470.
[0083] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one organic pigment (a2), which is preferably selected from the group consisting of carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments with the color index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the color index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the color index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the color index numbers CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the color index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15630, CI 15800, CI 15850, CI 15865, CI 15880, CI 17200, CI 26100, CI 45380, CI 45410, CI 58000, CI 73360, CI 73915 and / or CI 75470.
[0084] The organic pigment can also be a colored lake. For the purposes of the invention, the term colored lake refers to particles comprising a layer of absorbed dyes, the particle-dye unit being insoluble under the aforementioned conditions. The particles can be, for example, inorganic substrates, which can be aluminum, silica, calcium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate, or even aluminum.
[0085] Alizarin lake, for example, can be used as a colored varnish.
[0086] Due to their excellent light and temperature resistance, the use of the aforementioned pigments in the composition according to the invention is particularly preferred. Furthermore, it is preferred if the pigments used have a specific particle size. It is therefore advantageous according to the invention if the at least one pigment has an average particle size D 50 of 1.0 to 50 µm, preferably of 5.0 to 45 µm, more preferably of 10 to 40 µm, in particular of 14 to 30 µm. The average particle size D 50 can be determined, for example, using dynamic light scattering (DLS).
[0087] The pigments (a2) represent the second essential component of the agent according to the invention and are preferably used in the agent in certain quantity ranges.
[0088] Particularly good results were obtained when the agent - based on the total weight of the agent - contained one or more pigments (a2) in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 5.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.2 to 2.5 wt.% and most preferably 0.25 to 1.5 wt.%.
[0089] In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that the agent - based on the total weight of the agent - contains one or more pigments (a2) in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 5.0 wt.%, more preferably from 0.2 to 2.5 wt.% and very particularly preferably from 0.25 to 1.5 wt.%.
[0090] In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that the agent - based on the total weight of the agent - contains one or more inorganic pigments (a2) in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 5.0 wt.%, more preferably from 0.2 to 2.5 wt.% and very particularly preferably from 0.25 to 1.5 wt.%.
[0091] In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that the agent - based on the total weight of the agent - contains one or more organic pigments (a2) in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 5.0 wt.%, more preferably from 0.2 to 2.5 wt.% and very particularly preferably from 0.25 to 1.5 wt.%. amino-functionalized silicone polymers (a3)
[0092] As a third ingredient essential to the invention, the agent according to the invention contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a3). The amino-functionalized silicone polymer can alternatively also be referred to as aminosilicone or amodimethicone.
[0093] Silicone polymers are generally macromolecules having a molecular weight of at least 500 g / mol, preferably at least 1000 g / mol, more preferably at least 2500 g / mol, particularly preferably at least 5000 g / mol, which comprise repeating organic units.
[0094] The maximum molecular weight of the silicone polymer depends on the degree of polymerization (number of polymerized monomers) and the batch size, and is also determined by the polymerization method. For the purposes of the present invention, it is preferred if the maximum molecular weight of the silicone polymer is no more than 10 7 g / mol, preferably no more than 10 6 g / mol, and particularly preferably no more than 10 5 g / mol.
[0095] Silicone polymers comprise numerous Si-O repeating units, where the Si atoms may carry organic residues such as alkyl or substituted alkyl groups. A silicone polymer is therefore also referred to as polydimethylsiloxane.
[0096] In accordance with the high molecular weight of the silicone polymers, these are based on more than 10 Si-O repeating units, preferably more than 50 Si-O repeating units and particularly preferably more than 100 Si-O repeating units, most preferably more than 500 Si-O repeating units.
[0097] An amino-functionalized silicone polymer is a functionalized silicone that carries at least one structural unit with an amino group. The amino-functionalized silicone polymer preferably carries multiple structural units, each with at least one amino group. An amino group is defined as a primary amino group, a secondary amino group, and a tertiary amino group. All of these amino groups can be protonated in an acidic environment and are then present in their cationic form.
[0098] In principle, good results could be achieved with amino-functionalized silicone polymers (a3) if they contain at least one primary, at least one secondary, and / or at least one tertiary amino group. However, the highest color intensities were observed when an amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a3) containing at least one secondary amino group was used in the product.
[0099] In a particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it additionally contains (a3) at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer having at least one secondary amino group.
[0100] The secondary amino group(s) can be located at various positions on the amino-functionalized silicone polymer. Particularly good results were observed when using an amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a3) that contains at least one, preferably several, structural units of the formula (Si-amino).
[0101] In the structural units of the formula (Si-Amino), the abbreviations ALK1 and ALK2 independently represent a linear or branched, divalent C 1 -C 20 alkylene group.
[0102] In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that the agent contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a3) which comprises at least one structural unit of the formula (Si-Amino), where ALK1 and ALK2 independently represent a linear or branched, divalent C 1 -C 20 alkylene group.
[0103] The positions marked with an asterisk (*) indicate the bond to other structural units of the silicone polymer. For example, the silicon atom adjacent to the star can be bonded to another oxygen atom, and the oxygen atom adjacent to the star can be bonded to another silicon atom or to a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group.
[0104] A divalent C 1 -C 20 alkylene group can alternatively be referred to as a divalent or divalent C 1 -C 20 alkylene group, which means that each group ALK1 or AK2 can form two bonds.
[0105] In the case of ALK1, one bond is formed from the silicon atom to the ALK1 group, and the second bond is formed between ALK1 and the secondary amino group.
[0106] In the case of ALK2, one bond is formed from the secondary amino group to the ALK2 moiety, and the second bond is formed between ALK2 and the primary amino group.
[0107] Examples of a linear divalent C 1 -C 20 alkylene group are, for example, the methylene group (-CH 2 -), the ethylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -), the propylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -) and the butylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -). The propylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -) is particularly preferred. From a chain length of 3 C atoms, divalent alkylene groups can also be branched. Examples of branched, divalent C 3 -C 20 alkylene groups are (-CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )-) and (-CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )-CH 2 -).
[0108] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, the structural units of the formula (Si-amino) represent repeating units in the amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a3), so that the silicone polymer comprises several structural units of the formula (Si-amino).
[0109] Particularly suitable amino-functionalized silicone polymers (a3) with at least one secondary amino group are listed below.
[0110] Colorations with the highest color intensities could be obtained when an agent was applied to the keratinic material containing at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a3) comprising structural units of the formula (Si-I) and the formula (Si-II)
[0111] In a further explicitly very particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a3) which comprises structural units of the formula (Si-I) and the formula (Si-II)
[0112] An example of a corresponding amino-functionalized silicone polymer with the structural units (Si-I) and (Si-II) is the commercial product DC 2-8566 or Dowsil 2-8566 Amino Fluid, which is marketed by the Dow Chemical Company and is named "Siloxanes and Silicones, 3-[(2-Aminoethyl)amino]-2-methylpropyl Me, Di-Me-Siloxane" and has the CAS number 106842-44-8. Another amino-functionalized silicone polymer with the structural units (Si-I) and (Si-II) is the commercial product DOWSIL™ AP-8568 Amino Fluid, which is also marketed by the Dow Chemical Company.
[0113] In a further preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one amino-functional silicone polymer (a3) of the formula (Si-III), where m and n are numbers chosen so that the sum (n + m) is in the range from 1 to 1000, n is a number in the range from 0 to 999 and m is a number in the range from 1 to 1000, R1, R2 and R3, which are the same or different, are a hydroxy group or a C1-4 alkoxy group, where at least one of the groups R1 to R3 is a hydroxy group;
[0114] Further preferred agents according to the invention are characterized by their content of at least one amino-functional silicone polymer (a3) of the formula (Si-IV), in the p and q are numbers chosen so that the sum (p + q) is in the range from 1 to 1000, p is a number in the range from 0 to 999 and q is a number in the range from 1 to 1000, R1 and R2, which are different, are a hydroxy group or a C1-4 alkoxy group, where at least one of the groups R1 to R2 is a hydroxy group.
[0115] The silicones of formulas (Si-III) and (Si-IV) differ in the grouping at the Si atom carrying the nitrogen-containing group: In formula (Si-III), R2 represents a hydroxyl group or a C1-4 alkoxy group, while the residue in formula (Si-IV) is a methyl group. The individual Si groups, which are designated by the indices m and n or p and q, do not have to be present as blocks; rather, the individual units can also be statistically distributed, i.e., in formulas (Si-III) and (Si-IV), not every R1-Si(CH3)2 group is necessarily bonded to an -[O-Si(CH3)2]- group.
[0116] Agents according to the invention which contain at least one amino-functional silicone polymer (a3) of the formula (Si-V) have also proven particularly effective with regard to the desired effects in the A represents a group -OH, -O-Si(CH 3 ) 3 ,-O-Si(CH 3 ) 2 OH,-O-Si(CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3, D represents a group -H, -Si(CH 3 ) 3 ,-Si(CH 3 ) 2 OH, -Si(CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3, b, n and c represent integers between 0 and 1000, with the specifications n > 0 and b + c > 0 at least one of the conditions A = -OH or D = -H is fulfilled.
[0117] In the above-mentioned formula (Si-V), the individual siloxane units with the indices b, c and n are statistically distributed, ie they do not necessarily have to be block copolymers.
[0118] The agent (a) may further comprise one or more different amino-functionalized silicone polymers described by the formula (Si-VI) M(R a Q b SiO (4-ab) / 2)x (R c SiO (4-c) / 2)y M (Si-VI), wherein in the above formula R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical having 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, Q is a polar radical of the general formula -R 1< HZ, wherein R 1< is a divalent linking group bonded to hydrogen and the radical Z, composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms, and Z is an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one amino-functional group;"a" takes on values in the range of about 0 to about 2, "b" takes on values in the range of about 1 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c" is a number in the range of about 1 to about 3, and x is a number in the range of 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25, and y is a number in the range of about 20 to about 10,000, preferably from about 125 to about 10,000, and most preferably from about 150 to about 1,000, and M is a suitable silicone end group as known in the art, preferably trimethylsiloxy. Non-limiting examples of the radicals represented by R include alkyl radicals such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl, and the like; alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, and the like;Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; preferably, R is an alkyl radical containing 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably, R is methyl. Examples of R 1< include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH 2 CH(CH 3 )CH 2 -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH 2 CH 2 SCH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 -, -OCH 2 CH 2 -, -OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH(CH 3 )C(O)OCH 2 -, -(CH 2 ) 3 CC(O)OCH 2 CH 2 -, -C 6 H 4 C 6 H 4 -, -C 6 H 4 CH 2 C 6 H 4 -; and -(CH 2 ) 3 C(O)SCH 2 CH 2 -.;
[0119] Z is an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one amino functional group. One possible formula for Z is NH(CH 2 ) z NH 2 , where z is 1 or more. Another possible formula for Z is -NH(CH 2 ) z (CH 2 ) zz NH, where both z and zz are independently 1 or more, this structure including diamino ring structures such as piperazinyl. Z is most preferably an -NHCH 2 CH 2 NH 2 radical. Another possible formula for Z is -N(CH 2 ) z (CH 2 ) zz NX 2 or -NX 2 , where each X of X 2 is independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups having 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0.
[0120] Q is most preferably a polar, amine-functional radical of the formula -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NHCH 2 CH 2 NH 2 . In the formulas, "a" takes on values in the range of about 0 to about 2, "b" takes on values in the range of about 2 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c" is a number in the range of about 1 to about 3. The molar ratio of the R a Q b SiO (4-ab) / 2 units to the R c SiO (4-c) / 2 units is in the range of about 1:2 to 1:65, preferably from about 1:5 to about 1:65, and most preferably from about 1:15 to about 1:20. If one or more silicones of the above formula are used, the various variable substituents in the above formula can be different for the various silicone components present in the silicone mixture.
[0121] In a further preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one amino-functional silicone polymer of the formula (Si-VII), R' a G 3-a -Si(OSiG 2 )n-(OSiG b R' 2 - b ) m -O-SiG 3-a -R' a (Si-VII), in which: G is -H, a phenyl group, -OH, -O-CH 3 , -CH 3 , -O-CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , -O-CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -O-CH(CH 3 ) 2 , -CH(CH 3 ) 2 , -O-CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , - CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -O-CH 2 CH(CH 3 ) 2 , -CH 2 CH(CH 3 ) 2 , -O-CH(CH 3 )CH 2 CH 3 , - CH(CH 3 )CH 2 CH 3 , -OC(CH 3 ) 3 , -C(CH 3 ) 3 ; a stands for a number between 0 and 3, in particular 0; b standsis a number between 0 and 1, in particular 1, m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably assumes values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably assumes values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10, R' is a monovalent radical selected from ∘ -QN(R")-CH 2 -CH 2 -N(R") 2 ∘ -QN(R") 2 ∘ -QN +< (R") 3 A -< ∘ -QN +< H(R") 2 A -< ∘ -QN +< H 2 (R")A -< ∘ -QN(R")-CH 2 -CH 2 -N +< R"H 2 A -< , where each Q represents a chemical bond, -CH 2 -, -CH 2 -CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -C(CH 3 ) 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 C(CH 3 ) 2 -, -CH(CH 3 )CH 2 CH 2 -, R" represents identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )Ph, the C 1-20 -alkyl radicals, preferably -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , - CH(CH 3 ) 2 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 H 3 , -CH 2 CH(CH 3 ) 2 , -CH(CH 3 )CH 2 CH 3 , -C(CH 3 ) 3 , and A represents an anion,which is preferably selected from chloride, bromide, iodide or methosulfate. ,
[0122] In a further preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one amino-functional silicone polymer (a3) of the formula (Si-VIIa), wherein m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably assumes values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably assumes values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.
[0123] According to the INCI declaration, these silicones are called trimethylsilylamodimethicones.
[0124] In a further preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one amino-functional silicone polymer of the formula (Si-VIIb) wherein R is -OH, -O-CH 3 or a -CH 3 group and m, n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, the sum (n1 + n2) preferably assuming values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably assuming values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.
[0125] These amino-functionalized silicone polymers are called amodimethicones according to the INCI declaration.
[0126] Regardless of which amino-functional silicones are used, agents according to the invention are preferred that contain an amino-functional silicone polymer (a3) whose amine number is above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g, and in particular above 0.4 meq / g. The amine number represents the milliequivalents of amine per gram of the amino-functional silicone. It can be determined by titration and can also be expressed in mg KOH / g.
[0127] Furthermore, agents containing a special 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone polymer (a3) are also suitable. This amino-functionalized silicone polymer comprises structural units of the formulas (SI-VIII) and (Si-IX).
[0128] Corresponding 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone polymers are described below.
[0129] A preferred amino-functionalized silicone polymer is known as amodimethicone / morpholinomethyl silsesquioxane copolymer and is commercially available in the form of the raw material Belsil ADM 8301 E from Wacker.
[0130] For example, a silicone containing structural units of the formulas (Si-VIII), (Si-IX) and (Si-X) can be used as a 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone. in which R1 stands for -CH 3 , -OH, -OCH 3 , -O-CH 2 CH 3 , -O-CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , or -O-CH(CH 3 ) 2; R2 stands for -CH 3 , -OH, or -OCH 3.
[0131] Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of the formula (Si-XI) in the R1 represents -CH 3 , -OH, -OCH 3 , -O-CH 2 CH 3 , -O-CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , or -O-CH(CH 3 ) 2 ; R2 represents -CH 3 , -OH, or -OCH 3 . B represents a group -OH, -O-Si(CH 3 ) 3 , -O-Si(CH 3 ) 2 OH, -O-Si(CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3 , D represents a group -H, -Si(CH 3 ) 3 , -Si(CH 3 ) 2 OH, -Si(CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3 , a, b and c independently of one another represent integers between 0 and 1000, with the proviso that a + b + c > 0 m and n independently of one another represent integers between 1 and 1000, with the proviso that at least one of the conditions B = -OH or D = -H is fulfilled, the units a, b, c, m and n are distributed statistically or in blocks in the molecule.
[0132] Structural formula (Si-XI) is intended to clarify that the siloxane groups n and m do not necessarily have to be directly bonded to an end grouping B or D. Rather, in preferred formulas (Si-VI), a > 0 or b > 0, and in particularly preferred formulas (Si-VI), a > 0 and c > 0, i.e., the terminal grouping B or D is preferably bonded to a dimethylsiloxy grouping. In formula (Si-VI), the siloxane units a, b, c, m, and n are also preferably distributed randomly.
[0133] The silicones used according to the invention and represented by formula (Si-VI) can be trimethylsilyl-terminated (D or B = -Si(CH 3 ) 3 ), but they can also be dimethylsilylhydroxy-terminated on two sides or dimethylsilylhydroxy- and dimethylsilylmethoxy-terminated on one side. Silicones particularly preferably used in the context of the present invention are selected from silicones in which B = -O-Si(CH 3 ) 2 OH and D = -Si(CH 3 ) 3 B = -O-Si(CH 3 ) 2 OH and D = -Si(CH 3 ) 2 OH B = -O-Si(CH 3 ) 2 OH and D = -Si(CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3 B = -O-Si(CH 3 ) 3 and D = -Si(CH 3 ) 2 OH B = -O-Si(CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3 and D = -Si(CH 3 ) 2 OH These silicones lead to exorbitant improvements in the properties of hair treated with the inventive agents, and to significantly improved protection during oxidative treatment.
[0134] It has proven particularly advantageous if the agent according to the invention contains the amino-functionalized silicone polymer(s) (a3) in specific amount ranges. Particularly good results were obtained when the agent contains—based on the total weight of the agent—a total amount of 0.1 to 8.0 wt.%, preferably 0.2 to 5.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.3 to 3.0 wt.%, and most preferably 0.4 to 2.5 wt.%.
[0135] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains - based on the total weight of the agent - one or more amino-functionalized silicone polymers (a3) in a total amount of 0.1 to 8.0 wt.%, preferably 0.2 to 5.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.3 to 3.0 wt.% and most preferably 0.4 to 2.5 wt.%. Addition products of C 1 -C 6 alkylene oxide(s) to the esters of C 12 -C 30 fatty acids and aromatic C 1 -C 12 alcohols (a4)
[0136] To further improve the fastness properties such as rub fastness and wash fastness, the agents according to the invention additionally contain, as a fourth essential ingredient, at least one addition product of C 1 -C 6 alkylene oxide(s) to the esters of C 12 -C 30 fatty acids and aromatic C 1 -C 12 alcohols
[0137] The addition products of C 1 -C 6 alkylene oxide(s) to the esters of C 12 -C 30 fatty acids and aromatic C 1 -C 12 alcohols (a4) are hereinafter also referred to as alkoxylated fatty acid esters (a4).
[0138] C 1 -C 6 alkylene oxides are the epoxides of C 1 -C 6 alkanes. Particularly suitable C 1 -C 6 alkylene oxides include ethylene oxide (1,2-epoxyethane), propylene oxide (1,2-epoxypropane), and butylene oxides (1,2-epoxybutane and 2,3-epoxybutane).
[0139] The ethoxylated fatty acid esters (a4) are based on C 12 -C 30 fatty acids. These C 12 -C 30 fatty acids according to the invention are linear or branched, saturated or monounsaturated or polyunsaturated fatty acids, which may also carry one or more hydroxyl groups. The C 12 -C 24 fatty acids according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms. Furthermore, the C 12 -C 24 fatty acids carry at least one carboxylic acid moiety.
[0140] To form the ethoxylated fatty acid esters (a4) according to the invention, it is possible to use, for example, one or more fatty acids selected from the group consisting of dodecanoic acid (lauric acid), tetradecanoic acid (myristic acid), hexadecanoic acid (palmitic acid), tetracosanoic acid (lignoceric acid), octadecanoic acid (stearic acid), eicosanoic acid (arachidic acid), docosanoic acid (behenic acid), petroselinic acid [(Z)-6-octadecenoic acid], palmitoleic acid [(9Z)-hexadec-9-enoic acid], oleic acid [(9Z)-octadec-9-enoic acid], elaidic acid [(9E)-octadec-9-enoic acid], erucic acid [(13Z)-docos-13-enoic acid], linoleic acid [(9Z, 12Z)-octadeca-9,12-dienoic acid, linolenic acid [(9Z, 12Z, 15Z)-Octadeca-9,12,15-trienoic acid, elaostearic acid [(9Z,11E,13E)-octadeca-9,11,3-trienoic acid], arachidonic acid [(5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z)-icosa-5,8,11,14-tetraenoic acid], nervonic acid [(15Z)-tetracos-15-enoic acid] and / or ricinoleic acid ((9Z,12R)-12-hydroxy-9-octadecenoic acid).
[0141] The ethoxylated fatty acid esters (a4) are addition products of C 1 -C 6 alkylene oxide(s) with the esters of the previously described C 12 -C 24 fatty acids and aromatic C 1 -C 12 alcohols. A characteristic of the aromatic C 1 -C 12 alcohols is that they comprise 1 to 12 carbon atoms and at least one aromatic ring system. The aromatic C 1 -C 12 alcohols each have at least one hydroxy group, which can either be located directly on the aromatic ring (as in the case of phenol) or can be linked to the aromatic ring via an aliphatic unit (as in the case of benzyl alcohol or 2-phenoxyethanol). The structures of the aromatic C 1 -C 12 alcohols can also comprise further heteroatoms such as oxygen or nitrogen.
[0142] The corresponding aromatic C 1 -C 12 alcohols can be mono- or polyhydric alcohols, ie the alcohols can have one or more hydroxy groups.
[0143] Monohydric aromatic C 1 -C 12 alcohols are particularly preferred. This class of compounds contains exactly one hydroxy group. Suitable examples include phenol, benzyl alcohol, 2-phenylethyl alcohol, and 2-phenoxyethanol.
[0144] Particularly good wash fastness and rub fastness properties could be obtained when at least one addition product (a4) of C 1 -C 6 alkylene oxide(s) with an ester obtained by esterification of a C 12 -C 30 fatty acid with an aromatic C 1 -C 12 alcohol from the group consisting of benzyl alcohol, phenol, 2-phenylethyl alcohol and 2-phenoxyethanol was used in the agent according to the invention.
[0145] In a further preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains (a4) at least one addition product of C 1 -C 6 alkylene oxide(s) with an ester which is obtained by esterification of a C 12 -C 24 fatty acid with an aromatic C 1 -C 12 alcohol from the group consisting of benzyl alcohol, phenol, 2-phenylethyl alcohol and 2-phenoxyethanol, very particularly preferably benzyl alcohol.
[0146] In a particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains (a4) at least one addition product of C 1 -C 6 alkylene oxide(s) with an ester obtained by esterification of a C 12 -C 24 fatty acid with benzyl alcohol.
[0147] In a further preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains (a4) at least one addition product of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with an ester which is obtained by esterification of a C 12 -C 24 fatty acid with an aromatic C 1 -C 12 alcohol from the group consisting of benzyl alcohol, phenol, 2-phenylethyl alcohol and 2-phenoxyethanol.
[0148] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains (a4) at least one addition product of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with an ester obtained by esterification of a C 12 -C 24 fatty acid with benzyl alcohol.
[0149] As already described above, particularly suitable C 1 -C 6 alkylene oxides include, for example, ethylene oxide (1,2-epoxyethane), propylene oxide (1,2-epoxypropane), and butylene oxides (1,2-epoxybutane and 2,3-epoxybutane). Ethylene oxide (1,2-epoxyethane) and propylene oxide (1,2-epoxypropane) are explicitly particularly preferred. Propylene oxide (1,2-epoxypropane) is most preferred.
[0150] A corresponding addition product of ethylene oxide to the esters of C 12 -C 30 fatty acids and aromatic C 1 -C 12 alcohols (a4) is formed when the C 12 -C 30 fatty acid itself or the ester already formed from it is reacted with ethylene oxide (alternative name 1,2-epoxyethane, CAS number 75-21-8).
[0151] Analogously, a corresponding addition product of propylene oxide to the esters of C 12 -C 30 fatty acids and aromatic C 1 -C 12 alcohols (a3) is formed when the C 12 -C 30 fatty acid itself or the ester already formed from it is reacted with propylene oxide (alternative name 1,2-epoxypropane, CAS numbers 75-56-9 (racemate), 15448-47-2 ((R)-enantiomer, 16088-62-3 (S)-enantiomer).
[0152] If the C 12 -C 30 fatty acid itself is reacted with ethylene oxide, an adduct can initially form starting from the carboxylic acid grouping of the C 12 -C 30 fatty acid and the ethylene oxide, so that a *-C(O)-O-CH 2 -CH 2 -O-* grouping is formed. This grouping is also an ester. If one mole of ethylene oxide is reacted per mole of fatty acid, on average a simple adduct with one *-CH 2 -CH 2 -O-* unit is formed. Depending on the molar excess in which ethylene oxide is used, however, multiple adducts can also form, with several *-CH 2 -CH 2 -O-* units being present per mole of C 12 -C 30 fatty acid. To form the ester (a3), this adduct is then further reacted with at least one aromatic C 1 -C 12 alcohol. The positions marked with an asterisk represent the bond to the remaining part of the fatty acid and the bond to the remaining part of the alcohol.
[0153] If the C 12 -C 30 fatty acid is reacted analogously with propylene oxide, an adduct can initially form starting from the carboxylic acid grouping of the C 12 -C 30 fatty acid and the propylene oxide, so that a grouping *-C(O)-O-CH(CH 3 )-CH 2 -O-* or a grouping *-C(O)-O-CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )-O-*. The reaction mixture usually contains a mixture of the two aforementioned groupings. Both groupings are also esters. If one mole of propylene oxide is reacted per mole of fatty acid, on average a simple adduct with a mixture of the units *-CH(CH 3 )-CH 2 -O-* and *-CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )-O-* is formed. However, depending on the molar excess of propylene oxide used, multiple adducts can also form, with several units of *-CH(CH 3 )-CH 2 -O-* and / or *-CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )-O-* being present per mole of C 12 -C 30 fatty acid.To form the ester (a3), this adduct is then further reacted with at least one aromatic C 1 -C 12 alcohol. The positions marked with an asterisk represent the bond to the remaining fatty acid and the bond to the remaining alcohol.
[0154] Furthermore, it is conceivable in principle that the C 12 -C 30 fatty acid could be reacted with a mixture of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide. In this case, mixtures of the previously described adducts are formed. Reactions of higher alkylene oxides, such as butylene oxide, with the C 12 -C 30 fatty acids are also possible in this way.
[0155] The addition products produced in this way lead, for example, to the alkoxylated fatty acid esters of the general formula (AFE-I) where R1 represents a saturated or unsaturated C 11 -C 29 alkyl group, R2, R3 independently represent a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, a hydroxy group or a C 1 -C 6 alkoxy group, n represents the number 0 or 1, m represents an integer from 0 to 6, o represents an integer from 1 to 60, and Q represents a structural unit -O-CH 2 -CH 2 -, -O-CH(CH 3 )-CH 2 - or -O-CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )-, where the proviso is that if m is 0, then n is also 0.
[0156] Dyes containing at least one ethoxylated fatty acid ester (a4) of formula (AFE-I) were obtained that were particularly distinguished by good washfastness and good rubfastness. For this reason, the use of one or more ethoxylated fatty acid esters (a4) of formula (AFE-I) in the dyeing agents as an additional ingredient in addition to ingredients (a1), (a2), and (a3) is particularly preferred.
[0157] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains (a4) at least one alkoxylated fatty acid ester of the general formula (AFE-I) where R1 represents a saturated or unsaturated C 11 -C 29 alkyl group, R2, R3 independently represent a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, a hydroxy group or a C 1 -C 6 alkoxy group, n represents the number 0 or 1, m Q represents an integer from 0 to 6, o represents an integer from 1 to 60, and represents a structural unit -O-CH 2 -CH 2 -, -O-CH(CH 3 )-CH 2 - or -O-CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )-, where the proviso is that if m is 0, then n is also 0.
[0158] The radical R1 represents a saturated or unsaturated C11-C29 alkyl group. An unsaturated C11-C23 alkyl group may contain one or more double bonds and is alternatively referred to as an unsaturated C11-C23 alkenyl group. The saturated or unsaturated C11-C29 alkyl group may be linear or branched.
[0159] Preferably, R1 represents a linear, saturated or unsaturated C11-C23 alkyl group.
[0160] The radicals R2 and R3 each represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl group, a hydroxy group, or a C1-C6 alkoxy group. Most preferably, the radicals R2 and R3 both represent a hydrogen atom.
[0161] The index number n stands for the number 0 or 1. Preferably, n stands for the number 0.
[0162] The index number m stands for an integer from 0 to 6. Preferably, m stands for the number 1.
[0163] The index number o stands for an integer from 1 to 60. Preferably, o stands for an integer from 1 to 30, more preferably from 1 to 20, even more preferably from 1 to 10 and most preferably from 1 to 5.
[0164] The radical Q represents a structural unit -O-CH 2 -CH 2 -, -O-CH(CH 3 )-CH 2 - or -O-CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )-. Q particularly preferably represents a structural unit -O-CH(CH 3 )-CH 2 - or -O-CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )-.
[0165] If o stands for a number greater than 1, the compounds of formula (AFE-I) (or also formula (AFE-II)) contain several structural units Q; in this case, each structural unit Q can be chosen independently of the other structural units Q.
[0166] Accordingly, a preferred agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains (a4) at least one alkoxylated fatty acid ester of the general formula (AFE-I) where R1 represents a saturated or unsaturated C 11 -C 29 alkyl group, R2, R3 independently represent a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, a hydroxy group or a C 1 -C 6 alkoxy group, n represents the number 0 or 1, m represents an integer from 0 to 6, o represents an integer from 1 to 60, and Q represents a structural unit -O-CH 2 -CH 2 -, -O-CH(CH 3 )-CH 2 - or -O-CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )-, with the proviso that if m is 0, then n is also 0, and if o is greater than 1, each structural unit Q can be chosen independently of the other structural units Q.
[0167] In summary, particularly good results were obtained with the agents according to the invention which contained (a4) at least one alkoxylated fatty acid ester of the general formula (AFE-I), where R1 represents a saturated or unsaturated C 11 -C 29 alkyl group, R2, R3 both represent a hydrogen atom, n represents the number 0, m represents the number 1, o represents an integer from 1 to 30, preferably from 1 to 20, more preferably from 1 to 10 and most preferably from 1 to 5, and Q represents a structural unit -O-CH(CH 3 )-CH 2 - or -O-CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )-.
[0168] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains (a4) at least one alkoxylated fatty acid ester of the general formula (AFE-I) where R1 represents a saturated or unsaturated C 11 -C 29 alkyl group, R2, R3 both represent a hydrogen atom, n represents the number 0, m represents the number 1, o represents an integer from 1 to 30, preferably from 1 to 20, more preferably from 1 to 10 and most preferably from 1 to 5, and Q represents a structural unit -O-CH(CH 3 )-CH 2 - or -O-CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )-.
[0169] The most preferred alkoxylated fatty acid esters of this embodiment also fall under the general formula (AFE-II) where R1 represents a saturated or unsaturated C 11 -C 29 alkyl group, or represents an integer from 1 to 30, preferably from 1 to 20, more preferably from 1 to 10 and most preferably from 1 to 5, and Q represents a structural unit -O-CH(CH 3 )-CH 2 - or -O-CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )-.
[0170] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains (a4) at least one alkoxylated fatty acid ester of the general formula (AFE-II) where R1 represents a saturated or unsaturated C 11 -C 29 alkyl group, or represents an integer from 1 to 30, preferably from 1 to 20, more preferably from 1 to 10 and most preferably from 1 to 5, and Q represents a structural unit -O-CH(CH 3 )-CH 2 - or -O-CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )-.
[0171] Again, in the case of o greater than 1, each structural unit Q can be chosen independently of the other structural units Q.
[0172] Here, the structural units Q are aligned in the alkoxylated fatty acid esters of the general formula (AFE-II) such that the oxygen atom in the grouping -O-CH(CH 3 )-CH 2 - or -O-CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )- is adjacent to the benzyl group, and the respective unit - CH2- or -CH(CH3)- is adjacent to the ester group -OC(O)-R1.
[0173] A particularly suitable compound of this type is PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate, which is alternatively also called α-(1-oxotetradecyl)-ω-(phenylmethoxy) poly[oxy(methyl-1,2-ethanediyl)] and has the CAS number 642443-86-5.
[0174] PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate can be purchased from Croda, for example, under the trade name Crodamol STS.
[0175] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains (a4) PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate.
[0176] The alkoxylated fatty acid esters (a4) are particularly preferably used in certain amount ranges in the agent according to the invention.
[0177] Particularly good results were obtained when the agent - based on the total weight of the agent - contains one or more alkoxylated fatty acid esters (a4) in a total amount of 0.1 to 20.0 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 15.0 wt.%, more preferably from 1.0 to 10.0 wt.%, even more preferably from 1.0 to 8.0 wt.% and most preferably from 1.0 to 5.0 wt.%.
[0178] Within the scope of a further preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains - based on the total weight of the agent - one or more alkoxylated fatty acid esters (a4) in a total amount of 0.1 to 20.0 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 15.0 wt.%, more preferably from 1.0 to 10.0 wt.%, even more preferably from 1.0 to 8.0 wt.% and very particularly preferably from 1.0 to 5.0 wt.%. other optional ingredients in the medium
[0179] Depending on the desired form of packaging, the agent according to the invention may optionally also contain further components or ingredients. Fat components on average
[0180] If the product is to be provided in the form of an emulsion or cream, the use of at least one fatty component has proven particularly advantageous. The fatty components are hydrophobic substances that can form emulsions in the presence of water, forming micelle systems. Without being bound to this theory, it is assumed that the C 1 -C 6 alkoxysilanes - either in the form of their monomers or, where appropriate, in the form of their condensed oligomers - are embedded in this hydrophobic environment or in the micelle systems, thereby changing the polarity of their environment. Due to the hydrophobic nature of the fatty components, the environment of the C 1 -C 6 alkoxysilanes is also made hydrophobic. It is assumed that the polymerization reaction of the C 1 -C 6 alkoxysilanes leading to the film or coating proceeds at a reduced rate in an environment of reduced polarity.
[0181] For the purposes of the invention, "fatty constituents" are understood to mean organic compounds with a solubility in water at room temperature (22 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) of less than 1 wt.%, preferably less than 0.1 wt.%. The definition of fatty constituents explicitly includes only uncharged (i.e., non-ionic) compounds. Fatty constituents contain at least one saturated or unsaturated alkyl group with at least 12 carbon atoms. The molecular weight of the fatty constituents is a maximum of 5000 g / mol, preferably a maximum of 2500 g / mol, and particularly preferably a maximum of 1000 g / mol. The fatty constituents are neither polyoxyalkylated nor polyglycerylated compounds.
[0182] Most preferably, the fat components additionally used in the composition can be selected from the group of C 12 -C 30 fatty alcohols, C 12 -C 30 fatty acid triglycerides, C 12 -C 30 fatty acid monoglycerides, C 12 -C 30 fatty acid diglycerides and / or hydrocarbons.
[0183] In a further preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains one or more fatty components from the group of C 12 -C 30 fatty alcohols, C 12 -C 30 fatty acid triglycerides, C 12 -C 30 fatty acid monoglycerides, C 12 -C 30 fatty acid diglycerides and / or hydrocarbons.
[0184] Particularly preferred fatty constituents in this context are those from the group of C 12 -C 30 fatty alcohols, C 12 -C 30 fatty acid triglycerides, C 12 -C 30 fatty acid monoglycerides, C 12 -C 30 fatty acid diglycerides, and / or hydrocarbons. For the purposes of the present invention, only non-ionic substances are explicitly considered fatty constituents. Charged compounds such as fatty acids and their salts are not considered fatty constituents.
[0185] C 12 -C 30 fatty alcohols can be saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohols with 12 to 30 C atoms.
[0186] Examples of preferred linear, saturated C 12 -C 30 fatty alcohols are dodecan-1-ol (dodecyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol), tetradecan-1-ol (tetradecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol), hexadecan-1-ol (hexadecyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol), octadecan-1-ol (octadecyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol), arachyl alcohol (eicosane-1-ol), heneicosyl alcohol (heneicosane-1-ol) and / or behenyl alcohol (docosan-1-ol).
[0187] Preferred linear, unsaturated fatty alcohols are (9Z)-octadec-9-en-1-ol (oleyl alcohol), (9E)-octadec-9-en-1-ol (elaidyl alcohol), (9Z,12Z)-octadeca-9,12-dien-1-ol (linoleyl alcohol), (9Z,12Z,15Z)-octadeca-9,12,15-trien-1-ol (linolenoyl alcohol), gadoleyl alcohol ((9Z)-eicos-9-en-1-ol), arachidonic alcohol ((5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z)-eicosa-5,8,11,14-tetraen-1-ol), erucyl alcohol ((13Z)-docos-13-en-1-ol) and / or brassidyl alcohol ((13E)-docosen-1-ol).
[0188] The preferred representatives for branched fatty alcohols are 2-octyl-dodecanol, 2-hexyl-dodecanol and / or 2-butyl-dodecanol.
[0189] In a further preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains one or more C 12 -C 30 fatty alcohols (a4) from the group consisting of Dodecan-1-ol (dodecyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol), tetradecan-1-ol (tetradecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol), hexadecan-1-ol (hexadecyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol), octadecan-1-ol (octadecyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol), arachyl alcohol (eicosan-1-ol), heneicosyl alcohol (heneicosan-1-ol), Behenyl alcohol (docosan-1-ol), (9Z)-octadec-9-en-1-ol (oleyl alcohol), (9 E )-Octadec-9-en-1-ol (elaidyl alcohol), (9 Z ,12 Z )-Octadeca-9,12-dien-1-ol (linoleyl alcohol), (9 Z ,12 Z ,15 Z )-Octadeca-9,12,15-trien-1-ol (linolenoyl alcohol), gadoleyl alcohol ((9 Z)-Eicos-9-en-1-ol), arachidone alcohol ((5 Z ,8 Z ,11 Z ,14 Z )-Eicosa-5,8,11,14-tetraen-1-ol), erucyl alcohol ((13 Z )-Docos-13-en-1-ol), brassidyl alcohol ((13E)-docosen-1-ol), 2-octyl-dodecanol, 2-hexyl-dodecanol and / or 2-butyl-dodecanol.
[0190] It has proven particularly preferable to use one or more C 12 -C 30 fatty alcohols in very specific quantity ranges.
[0191] Furthermore, it is very particularly preferred if the agent - based on the total weight of the agent - contains one or more C 12 -C 30 fatty alcohols in a total amount of 2.0 to 50.0 wt.%, preferably from 3.0 to 30.0 wt.%, more preferably from 4.0 to 20.0 wt.%, even more preferably from 5.0 to 15.0 wt.% and very particularly preferably from 5.0 to 10.0 wt.%.
[0192] Furthermore, as a very suitable fat component, the product can also contain at least one C 12 -C 30 fatty acid triglyceride, C 12 -C 30 fatty acid monoglyceride, and / or C 12 -C 30 fatty acid diglyceride. For the purposes of the present invention, a C 12 -C 30 fatty acid triglyceride is understood to be the triester of the trihydric alcohol glycerol with three equivalents of fatty acid. Both structurally identical and different fatty acids within a triglyceride molecule can participate in the ester formation.
[0193] According to the invention, fatty acids are understood to mean saturated or unsaturated, unbranched or branched, unsubstituted or substituted C 12 -C 30 carboxylic acids. Unsaturated fatty acids can be monounsaturated or polyunsaturated. In an unsaturated fatty acid, its CC double bond(s) can have the cis or trans configuration.
[0194] The fatty acid triglycerides are particularly suitable in which at least one of the ester groups is formed from glycerol with a fatty acid selected from dodecanoic acid (lauric acid), tetradecanoic acid (myristic acid), hexadecanoic acid (palmitic acid), tetracosanoic acid (lignoceric acid), octadecanoic acid (stearic acid), eicosanoic acid (arachidic acid), docosanoic acid (behenic acid), petroselinic acid [(Z)-6-octadecenoic acid], palmitoleic acid [(9Z)-hexadec-9-enoic acid], oleic acid [(9Z)-octadec-9-enoic acid], elaidic acid [(9E)-octadec-9-enoic acid], erucic acid [(13Z)-docos-13-enoic acid], linoleic acid [(9Z, 12Z)-octadeca-9,12-dienoic acid, linolenic acid [(9Z,12Z,15Z)-octadeca-9,12,15-trienoic acid, elaeostearic acid [(9Z,11E,13E)-octadeca-9,11,3-trienoic acid], arachidonic acid [(5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z)-icosa-5,8,11,14-tetraenoic acid] and / or nervonic acid [(15Z)-tetracos-15-enoic acid].
[0195] The fatty acid triglycerides can also be of natural origin. The fatty acid triglycerides found in soybean oil, peanut oil, olive oil, sunflower oil, macadamia nut oil, moringa oil, apricot kernel oil, marula oil, and / or optionally hydrogenated castor oil, or mixtures thereof, are particularly suitable for use in the product according to the invention.
[0196] A C 12 -C 30 fatty acid monoglyceride is the monoester of the trihydric alcohol glycerol with one equivalent of fatty acid. Either the middle hydroxy group of the glycerol or the terminal hydroxy group of the glycerol can be esterified with the fatty acid.
[0197] The C 12 -C 30 fatty acid monoglycerides are particularly suitable in which a hydroxy group of the glycerol is esterified with a fatty acid, the fatty acids being selected from dodecanoic acid (lauric acid), tetradecanoic acid (myristic acid), hexadecanoic acid (palmitic acid), tetracosanoic acid (lignoceric acid), octadecanoic acid (stearic acid), eicosanoic acid (arachidic acid), docosanoic acid (behenic acid), petroselinic acid [(Z)-6-octadecenoic acid], palmitoleic acid [(9Z)-hexadec-9-enoic acid], oleic acid [(9Z)-octadec-9-enoic acid], elaidic acid [(9E)-octadec-9-enoic acid], erucic acid [(13Z)-docos-13-enoic acid], linoleic acid [(9Z, 12Z)-octadeca-9,12-dienoic acid, linolenic acid [(9Z,12Z,15Z)-octadeca-9,12,15-trienoic acid, elaeostearic acid [(9Z,11E,13E)-octadeca-9,11,3-trienoic acid], arachidonic acid [(5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z)-icosa-5,8,11,14-tetraenoic acid] or nervonic acid [(15Z)-tetracos-15-enoic acid].
[0198] A C 12 -C 30 fatty acid diglyceride is the diester of the trihydric alcohol glycerol with two equivalents of fatty acid. In this case, either the middle and one terminal hydroxyl group of the glycerol can be esterified with two equivalents of fatty acid, or both terminal hydroxyl groups of the glycerol can be esterified with a fatty acid. The glycerol can be esterified with either two structurally identical or two different fatty acids.
[0199] The fatty acid diglycerides are particularly suitable in which at least one of the ester groups is formed from glycerol with a fatty acid selected from dodecanoic acid (lauric acid), tetradecanoic acid (myristic acid), hexadecanoic acid (palmitic acid), tetracosanoic acid (lignoceric acid), octadecanoic acid (stearic acid), eicosanoic acid (arachidic acid), docosanoic acid (behenic acid), petroselinic acid [(Z)-6-octadecenoic acid], palmitoleic acid [(9Z)-hexadec-9-enoic acid], oleic acid [(9Z)-octadec-9-enoic acid], elaidic acid [(9E)-octadec-9-enoic acid], erucic acid [(13Z)-docos-13-enoic acid], linoleic acid [(9Z, 12Z)-octadeca-9,12-dienoic acid, linolenic acid [(9Z,12Z,15Z)-octadeca-9,12,15-trienoic acid, elaeostearic acid [(9Z,11E,13E)-octadeca-9,11,3-trienoic acid], arachidonic acid [(5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z)-icosa-5,8,11,14-tetraenoic acid] and / or nervonic acid [(15Z)-tetracos-15-enoic acid].
[0200] Particularly good results were obtained when the agent contained at least one C 12 -C 30 fatty acid monoglyceride, which is selected from the monoesters of glycerol with one equivalent of fatty acid from the group consisting of dodecanoic acid (lauric acid), tetradecanoic acid (myristic acid), hexadecanoic acid (palmitic acid), tetracosanoic acid (lignoceric acid), octadecanoic acid (stearic acid), eicosanoic acid (arachidic acid), docosanoic acid (behenic acid), petroselinic acid [(Z)-6-octadecenoic acid], palmitoleic acid [(9Z)-hexadec-9-enoic acid], oleic acid [(9Z)-octadec-9-enoic acid], elaidic acid [(9E)-octadec-9-enoic acid], erucic acid [(13Z)-docos-13-enoic acid], linoleic acid [(9Z, 12Z)-Octadeca-9,12-dienoic acid, linolenic acid [(9Z,12Z,15Z)-octadeca-9,12,15-trienoic acid, elaeostearic acid [(9Z,11E,13E)-octadeca-9,11,3-trienoic acid], arachidonic acid [(5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z)-icosa-5,8,11,14-tetraenoic acid] and / or nervonic acid [(15Z)-tetracos-15-enoic acid].
[0201] In a further embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one C 12 -C 30 fatty acid monoglyceride which is selected from the monoesters of glycerol with one equivalent of fatty acid from the group consisting of dodecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid, tetracosanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, eicosanoic acid and / or docosanoic acid.
[0202] It has been found to be preferable to use one or more C 12 -C 30 fatty acid mono-, C 12 -C 30 fatty acid di- and / or C 12 -C 30 fatty acid triglycerides (a4) in very specific quantity ranges in the composition.
[0203] With regard to the solution of the problem according to the invention, it has proven advantageous if the agent - based on the total weight of the agent - contained one or more C 12 -C 30 fatty acid mono-, C 12 -C 30 fatty acid di- and / or C 12 -C 30 fatty acid triglycerides (a4) in a total amount of 0.1 to 20.0 wt.%, preferably 0.3 to 15.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.5 to 10.0 wt.% and very particularly preferably 0.8 to 5.0 wt.%.
[0204] In a particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the agent - based on the total weight of the agent - contains one or more C 12 -C 30 fatty acid mono-, C 12 -C 30 fatty acid di- and / or C 12 -C 30 fatty acid triglycerides in a total amount of 0.1 to 20.0 wt.%, preferably 0.3 to 15.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.5 to 10.0 wt.% and very particularly preferably 0.8 to 5.0 wt.%.
[0205] The C 12 -C 30 fatty acid mono-, C 12 -C 30 fatty acid di-, and / or C 12 -C 30 fatty acid triglycerides can be used as the sole fatty components (a4) in the compositions. However, according to the invention, at least one C 12 -C 30 fatty acid mono-, C 12 -C 30 fatty acid di-, and / or C 12 -C 30 fatty acid triglyceride can also be incorporated into the composition in combination with at least one C 12 -C 30 fatty alcohol.
[0206] Furthermore, as a particularly preferred fatty component, the agent may also contain at least one hydrocarbon.
[0207] Hydrocarbons are compounds consisting exclusively of carbon and hydrogen atoms and containing 8 to 80 carbon atoms. Particularly preferred in this context are aliphatic hydrocarbons such as mineral oils, liquid paraffin oils (e.g., paraffinium liquidum or paraffinum perliquidum), isoparaffin oils, semi-solid paraffin oils, paraffin waxes, hard paraffin (paraffinum solidum), petrolatum, and polydecenes.
[0208] Liquid paraffin oils (Paraffinum Liquidum and Paraffinium Perliquidum) have proven particularly suitable in this context. The hydrocarbon used is particularly preferred: Paraffinum Liquidum, also known as white oil. Paraffinum Liquidum is a mixture of purified, saturated, aliphatic hydrocarbons, consisting primarily of hydrocarbon chains with a carbon chain distribution of 25 to 35 carbon atoms.
[0209] Particularly good results were obtained when the agent contained at least one hydrocarbon selected from the group of mineral oils, liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils, semi-solid paraffin oils, paraffin waxes, hard paraffin (Paraffinum Solidum), petroleum jelly and polydecene.
[0210] In a particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one fatty component from the group of hydrocarbons.
[0211] With regard to the solution of the problem according to the invention, it has proven to be very particularly preferred if the agent - based on the total weight of the agent - contained one or more hydrocarbons in a total amount of 0.5 to 20.0 wt.%, preferably 0.7 to 10.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.9 to 5.0 wt.% and very particularly preferably 1.0 to 4.0 wt.%. other ingredients in the product
[0212] The products may also contain other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, such as structuring agents such as glucose, maleic acid and lactic acid, hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example lecithin and cephalins; perfume oils, dimethyl isosorbide and cyclodextrins; polymers such as anionic, non-ionic and cationic polymers; surfactants such as anionic, non-ionic, cationic, zwitterionic and amphoteric surfactants, fatty components, fibre structure improving agents, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose; dyes for colouring the product; anti-dandruff agents such as piroctone olamine, zinc omadine and climbazole; amino acids and oligopeptides; protein hydrolysates of animal and / or plant origin, as well as in the form of their fatty acid condensation products or optionally anionically or cationically modified derivatives; vegetable oils;Sunscreens and UV blockers; active ingredients such as panthenol, pantothenic acid, pantolactone, allantoin, pyrrolidinonecarboxylic acids and their salts and bisabolol; polyphenols, in particular hydroxycinnamic acids, 6,7-dihydroxycoumarins, hydroxybenzoic acids, catechins, tannins, leucoanthocyanidins, anthocyanidins, flavanones, flavones and flavonols; ceramides or pseudoceramides; vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors; plant extracts; fats and waxes such as fatty alcohols, beeswax, montan wax and paraffins; swelling and penetrating agents such as glycerin, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, hydrogen carbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates; opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers; Pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3 distearate; as well as propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2 and air.
[0213] The expert will select these additional substances based on the desired properties of the agent. Regarding further optional components and the amounts of these components used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the expert. The additional active ingredients and excipients are preferably used in the preparations according to the invention in amounts of 0.0001 to 25 wt.%, in particular 0.0005 to 15 wt.%, based on the total weight of the respective agent. Process for coloring keratin material
[0214] The agents described above can be used excellently in processes for coloring keratin material, especially human hair.
[0215] A second subject of the present invention is therefore a method for dyeing keratinic material, in particular human hair, in which an agent as disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject of the invention is applied to the keratinic fibers and, if appropriate, rinsed out again after a contact time of 30 seconds to 45 minutes.
[0216] In other words, a second subject of the invention is a method for dyeing keratin material, in particular human hair, comprising the following steps: (1) applying a colorant to the keratinic material, wherein the colorant is an agent as disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject matter of the invention, (2) allowing the colorant to act on the keratinic material, and (3) rinsing the colorant with water.
[0217] In step (1) of the method according to the invention, the agent of the first subject matter of the invention is applied to the keratinic material, which is most preferably human hair.
[0218] In step (2) of the method according to the invention, the agent is then allowed to act on the keratin material after its application. Various exposure times, for example, from 30 seconds to 60 minutes, are conceivable.
[0219] A major advantage of the coloring system according to the invention, however, is that an intense color result can be achieved even in very short periods of time after short exposure times. For this reason, it is advantageous if the application mixture remains on the keratin material for only a comparatively short period of time, from 30 seconds to 15 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 10 minutes, and particularly preferably from 1 to 5 minutes, after application.
[0220] In a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized by (2) the coloring agent acting on the keratinic material for a period of time from 30 seconds to 15 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 10 minutes, and particularly preferably from 1 to 5 minutes.
[0221] After the application mixture has acted on the keratin material, it is finally rinsed out with water in step (3) of the process.
[0222] In one embodiment, the application mixture can be washed out with water alone, i.e., without the aid of a post-treatment agent or shampoo. The use of a post-treatment agent or conditioner in step (6) is also conceivable in principle.
[0223] However, in order to achieve the object of the invention and to increase the comfort of use, it has been found to be particularly preferred to rinse out the agent in step (3) exclusively with water without the aid of any further after-treatment agent, shampoo or conditioner.
[0224] In a further preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized by (3) rinsing the colorant exclusively with water. A process for coloring keratin material, in which the ready-to-use agent is first prepared.
[0225] As already described above, the agent of the first subject matter of the invention is a ready-to-use agent that is either made available to the user directly in its ready-to-use form or that is prepared by mixing different agents shortly before use.
[0226] In order to ensure a particularly fine distribution of the pigments, it has proven particularly preferable to prepare the ready-to-use agent shortly before use by mixing two or three different agents.
[0227] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the ready-to-use agent is prepared by mixing at least two different agents, the first of these two agents comprising the mixture of at least alkylene glycol of formula (AG) (a1) and pigment(s) (a2). Thus, the mixture of alkylene glycol of formula (AG) (a1) and pigment(s) (a2) can, for example, represent a pre-dispersion. The second agent contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a3). To prepare the ready-to-use agent, the two aforementioned agents are then shaken or stirred together.
[0228] Therefore, a method for dyeing keratin material, in particular human hair, comprising the following steps is preferred: (1) Providing an anhydrous agent (I), wherein the agent (I) contains: (a1) at least one alkylene glycol of formula (AG) and (a2) at least one pigment, (2) Providing an anhydrous agent (II), wherein the agent (II) contains: (a3) at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer, (3) Preparing an application mixture by mixing agents (I) and (II), (4) Applying the application mixture prepared in step (3) to the keratinous material, (5) Allowing the application mixture applied in step (4) to act on the keratinous material, and (6) Rinsing the application mixture with water, the ingredients (a1), (a2) and (a3) have already been disclosed in detail.
[0229] The agent (I) preferably represents a pre-dispersion of the pigments (a2) in the alkylene glycol(s) of formula (AG) (a1), which may be present, for example, in the form of a concentrate.
[0230] If the agents (I) and (II) are mixed, the pre-dispersion of the pigments (a2) in the alkylene glycol of the formula (AG) (a1) ensures a particularly fine distribution of the pigments, which is retained in the ready-to-use agent even after mixing the two agents (I) and (II).
[0231] Finally, in a further embodiment, it may prove advantageous to separate components (a1) and (a2) from one another, so that the three previously separated components (a1), (a2), and (a3) are mixed together during the preparation of the ready-to-use agent. This preparation method can be advantageous, for example, if the pigment(s) (a2) are to be used in smaller amounts and / or in powder form. Packaging the pigments in powder form simplifies the quantitative transfer of the pigments into a mixing vessel or other container.
[0232] A method for dyeing keratin material, in particular human hair, is preferred, comprising the following steps: (1) Providing an anhydrous agent (I), wherein the agent (I) contains: (a1) at least one alkylene glycol of the formula (AG), (2) Providing an anhydrous agent (II), wherein the agent (II) contains: (a2) at least pigment, (3) Providing an anhydrous agent (III), wherein the agent (III) contains: (a3) at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer, (4) Preparing an application mixture by mixing the agents (I) and (II) and (III), (5) Applying the application mixture prepared in step (4) to the keratinic material, (6) Allowing the application mixture applied in step (5) to act on the keratinic material, and (7) Rinsing the application mixture with water, the ingredients (a1), (a2) and (a3) have already been disclosed in detail.
[0233] The agent (I) contains at least one alkylene glycol of the formula (AG) (a1) and can be present, for example, in the form of a concentrate.
[0234] The agent (II) contains at least one pigment (a2). In one possible packaging form, the pigment is provided, for example, in the form of a powder.
[0235] The agent (III) contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a3) and is preferably in the form of a concentrate.
[0236] Regarding the further preferred embodiments of the methods according to the invention, mutatis mutantis what has been said about the agent according to the invention. Examples 1. Formulations
[0237] The following ready-to-use dyes were prepared (all data in weight percent unless otherwise stated): ready-to-use dye E1 E2 PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate (Crodamol STS) (a4) 3,40 3,40 PPG-14 Butyl ether (UCON FLUID AP, Dow Corning) (a13) --- 1,00 Unipure Red LC 3071 (CI 15850, Sensient) (a2) 0,38 0,38 Amino silicone (Dow Corning 2-8566 (Siloxanes and Silicones, 3-[(2-Aminoethyl)amino]-2-methylpropyl Me, Di-Me-Siloxane) (a3) 0,74 0,74 PEG 6000 (a12) (polyethylene glycol, molecular weight 6000 to 7500 g / mol) 9,93 9,93 PEG 400 (a11) (polyethylene glycol, molecular weight 400 g / mol) to 100 Ad 100 2. Application
[0238] The previously prepared, ready-to-use products E1 and E2 were each applied to strands of hair (Kerling, type "Euronatur-haar weiss" (ENH)) (liquor ratio: 1 g of product per g of hair strand) and left to work for three minutes. The strands were then thoroughly rinsed with water (1 minute) and dried. 3. Measurement of wash fastness
[0239] After drying, the dyed strands were measured using a Datacolor Spectraflash 450 colorimeter.
[0240] Each strand was then hand-washed three times. Each strand was moistened with water, then a commercially available shampoo (Schauma 7-Herbal) was applied to the strand (0.25 g of shampoo per 1 g of hair) and massaged in with the fingers for 30 seconds. The strand was then rinsed under lukewarm running water for 1 minute and dried. The previously described process corresponds to one hair wash. The process was repeated for each subsequent hair wash. After three and six washes, the strands were colorimetrically measured again.
[0241] The dE value used to assess wash fastness is determined from the L*a*b* color values measured on the respective strand as follows: dE = L i − L 0 2 + a i − a 0 2 + b i − b 0 1 / 2 L 0 , a 0 and b 0 = measured values directly after coloring L i , ai and bi = measured values after 3 hair washes (or after 6 hair washes)
[0242] The smaller the dE value, the smaller the color difference compared to colored, unwashed hair and the better the washfastness.
[0243] FA describes the percentage of color retention after the corresponding number of hair washes and is calculated using the following formula: FA % = 100 ∗ Δ E u − g Δ E u − c FA = Color retention in [%] u = untreated original hair g = washed colored hair c = colored hair
[0244] The higher the color retention, the better the washfastness. E1 E2 dE (uncolored versus colored) 60,40 61,10 dE (colored, after 3 washes) 1,20 3,40 FA after 3 hair washes [%] 100,00 105,00 dE (colored, after 6 washes) 1,20 6,30 FA after 6 hair washes [%] 102,00 98,00
[0245] With the products E1 and E2, the hair strands could be intensively colored, had very good washfastness and high color retention.
Claims
1. A water-free agent for dyeing keratinous material, in particular human hair, containing (a1) at least alkylene glycol of formula (AG) where x represents an integer from 0 to 10,000, y represents an integer from 0 to 10,000, Ra, Rb represent, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl group or a hydroxy-C1-C6 alkyl group, Rc represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl group, a phenyl group or a benzyl group, with the proviso that x + y is at least 1, and (a2) at least one pigment, and (a3) at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer, and (a4) at least one addition product of C1-C6 alkylene oxide(s) to the esters of C12-C30 fatty acids and aromatic C1-C12 alcohols.
2. The agent according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains (a1) at least alkylene glycol of formula (AG), where x represents an integer from 1 to 10,000, and y represents the number 0, and Rc represents a hydrogen atom.
3. The agent according to one of claims 1 to 2, characterized in that it contains (a1) at least one alkylene glycol of formula (AG-1), where x1 represents an integer from 1 to 100, preferably an integer from 1 to 80, more preferably an integer from 2 to 60, even more preferably an integer from 3 to 40, even more preferably an integer from 4 to 20, and very particularly preferably an integer from 6 to 15.
4. The agent according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it contains (a1) at least one alkylene glycol of formula (AG-2), where x2 represents an integer from 101 to 1,000, preferably an integer from 105 to 800, more preferably an integer from 107 to 600, even more preferably an integer from 109 to 400, and very particularly preferably an integer from 110 to 200.
5. The agent according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it contains (a1) at least alkylene glycol of formula (AG-3), where y1 represents an integer from 1 to 1,000, preferably an integer from 3 to 100, particularly preferably an integer from 5 to 50, Ra', Rb' represent, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a C1-C6 alkyl group, wherein preferably one of the functional groups of Ra' and Rb' represents a hydrogen atom, and the remaining one of the two functional groups represents a C1-C6 alkyl group, preferably a methyl group, and Rc' represents a C1-C6 alkyl group.
6. The agent according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it contains, based on the total weight of the agent, one or more alkylene glycols of formula (AG) (a1) in a total amount from 10.0 to 99.0 wt.%, preferably from 30.0 to 99.0 wt.%, more preferably from 50.0 to 99.0 wt.%, and very particularly preferably from 70.0 to 99.0 wt.%.
7. The agent according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it contains, based on the total weight of the agent, (a1) one or more alkylene glycols of formula (AG-1) in a total amount from 20.0 to 99.0 wt.%, preferably from 40.0 to 95.0 wt.%, more preferably from 60.0 to 90.0 wt.%, and / or it contains one or more alkylene glycols of formula (AG-2) in a total amount from 1.0 to 35.0 wt.%, preferably from 3.0 to 30.0 wt.%, particularly preferably from 4.0 to 25.0 wt.%, and / or it contains one or more alkylene glycols of formula (AG-3) in a total amount from 0.1 to 20.0 wt.%, preferably from 0.2 to 10.0 wt.%, particularly preferably from 0.4 to 5.0 wt.%.
8. The agent according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it contains at least one inorganic pigment (a2), which is preferably selected from the group of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments, and / or from mica-based colored pigments which are coated with at least one metal oxide and / or a metal oxychloride.
9. The agent according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it contains at least one organic pigment (a2) which is preferably selected from the group of carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments having the Color Index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100 or CI 74160, yellow pigments having the Color Index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000 or CI 47005, green pigments having the Color Index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570 or CI 74260, orange pigments having the Color Index numbers CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370 or CI 71105, red pigments having the Color Index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15630, CI 15800, CI 15850, CI 15865, CI 15880, CI 17200, CI 26100, CI 45380, CI 45410, CI 58000, CI 73360, CI 73915 and / or CI 75470.
10. The agent according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it contains, based on the total weight of the agent, one or more pigments (a2) in a total amount from 0.01 to 10.0 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 5.0 wt.%, more preferably from 0.2 to 2.5 wt.%, and very particularly preferably from 0.25 to 1.5 wt.%.
11. The agent according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it contains (a3) at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer with at least one secondary amino group.
12. The agent according to one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a3) which comprises at least one structural unit of formula (Si-amino), where ALK1 and ALK2 represent, independently of one another, a linear or branched, divalent C1-C20 alkylene group.
13. The agent according to one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that it contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a3) which comprises structural units of formula (Si-I) and formula (Si-II) 14. The agent according to one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that it contains, based on the total weight of the agent, one or more amino-functionalized silicone polymers (a3) in a total amount from 0.1 to 8.0 wt.%, preferably from 0.2 to 5.0 wt.%, more preferably from 0.3 to 3.0 wt.%, and very particularly preferably from 0.4 to 2.5 wt.%.
15. The agent according to one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that it contains (a4) at least one addition product of C1-C6 alkylene oxide(s) to an ester which is obtained by esterification of a C12-C24 fatty acid with an aromatic C1-C12 alcohol from the group of benzyl alcohol, phenol, 2-phenylethyl alcohol and 2-phenoxyethanol, very particularly preferably benzyl alcohol.
16. The agent according to one of claims 1 to 15, characterized in that it contains, based on the total weight of the agent, one or more alkoxylated fatty acid esters (a4) in a total amount from 0.1 to 20.0 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 15.0 wt.%, more preferably from 1.0 to 10.0 wt.%, even more preferably from 1.0 to 8.0 wt.%, and very particularly preferably from 1.0 to 5.0 wt.%.
17. A method for dyeing keratinous material, in particular human hair, in which an agent as described in claims 1 to 16 is applied to the keratinous fibers and optionally rinsed after an exposure time of 30 seconds to 45 minutes.