COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR THE LIPS

Description

FIELD OF INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to a lip care and / or makeup composition. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] Lip care and / or makeup products designed to beautify, protect, and / or color the lips are widely available. These products come in liquid, semi-fluid, or solid (stick) forms, offering a glossy or matte finish. Makeup products often boast good color retention. To achieve a matte finish, volatile oils and fillers are commonly used, but this can compromise the stability of the formula and result in a drying effect on the lips.

[0003] Application WO2009 / 042832 describes a lipstick composition comprising a silicone elastomer in gel form, a non-polar oil, a polar wax and a non-polar wax and pigments.

[0004] The need to develop new lip care and / or makeup products, particularly solid products, remains, to achieve a smooth, comfortable, matte, and non-drying application on the lips. Consumers are also looking for products that are soft to apply, with a velvety feel.

[0005] The present invention addresses these needs. The Applicant has developed a composition comprising a total active ingredient content of organopolysiloxane elastomer(s) greater than or equal to 7%, preferably greater than or equal to 10% by weight of the total composition, in an oily phase containing at least one non-polar oil and one polar wax. Unexpectedly, the inventors obtained a composition exhibiting very good stability despite the incompatibility of the silicone compounds (organopolysiloxane elastomers) in significant quantities with the non-silicone compounds of the oily phase, and, furthermore, the incompatibility of the non-polar oil with the polar wax, while maintaining the desired properties of a matte finish, comfort, and hydration upon application, with a velvety-looking deposit. DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0006] The invention relates, according to a first aspect, to a solid cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium at least: an organopolysiloxane elastomer carried in a first oil, and an organopolysiloxane elastomer powder separate from the organopolysiloxane elastomer carried in an oil, a nonpolar oil separate from the first oil, a polar wax, the total content of active organopolysiloxane elastomer(s) being greater than or equal to 7%, preferably greater than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, and the total wax content being greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition

[0007] The invention also relates to a cosmetic method for lip care and / or makeup comprising the application to the lips of at least one layer of a composition according to the invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0008] A first object of the invention is therefore a solid cosmetic composition according to claim 1 and as defined above.

[0009] According to a particular and preferred method, the composition of the invention is an anhydrous composition.

[0010] The term 'anhydrous' refers in particular to the fact that water is preferably not deliberately added to the compositions but may be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in the compositions. In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 4% by weight of water, preferably less than 3%, preferably less than 2%, more preferably less than 1%, and even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of said composition, or is even completely free of water.

[0011] The composition of the invention is a solid composition.

[0012] By 'solid', we mean a composition exhibiting, at a temperature of 20°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm of Hg), a hardness greater than 30 Nm -1, preferably greater than 40 Nm -1.

[0013] Hardness can be measured at 20°C using the "butter wire" method, which involves cutting a stick of the product, preferably cylindrical, transversely with a rigid metal wire 250 µm in diameter, moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 60 mm / min. The hardness of the samples is expressed in Gram-force (Gf) and can be measured using a texture analyzer such as the TAXT Plus. Preferably, the value obtained should be between 140 and 190.

[0014] The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises a fatty or oily phase.

[0015] The term "oily phase" refers to an oil or a mixture of miscible oils. For the purposes of this invention, "oil" refers to a fatty substance, insoluble in water, liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure.

[0016] The composition of the invention comprises at least a first oil, which serves as a vehicle for the organopolysiloxane elastomer, and a second oil distinct from the first oil. These oils are described below. ORGANOPOLYSILOXANE ELASTOMER

[0017] The composition of the invention comprises one or more organopolysiloxane elastomer(s) in a total active material content of organopolysiloxane elastomer(s) of at least 7%, preferably at least 10% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0018] In particular, the total content of organopolysiloxane elastomer(s) active material shall range from 10% to 30%, in particular from 10% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0019] The composition of the invention comprises at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer carried in an oil and an organopolysiloxane elastomer powder separate from the above-described organopolysiloxane elastomer carried in an oil, said organopolysiloxane elastomer powder preferably being coated with silicone resin.

[0020] The combination of these particular elastomers makes it possible to obtain a matte, comfortable deposit (flexibility of the deposit, absence of a feeling of dryness), as well as a velvety and soft sensation.

[0021] These compounds and their respective contents are described below. ORGANOPOLYSILOXANE ELASTOMER CARRYING IN A FIRST OIL

[0022] For the purposes of this invention, "carried" means that the elastomer is supplied to the composition in a pre-dispersed form in at least one first oil, in particular as a homogeneous mixture of elastomer particles dispersed in the first oil, stable for at least 24 hours at 20°C. Preferably, this elastomer is in the form of a gel in at least one first oil.

[0023] Organopolysiloxane elastomer, also known as silicone elastomer, refers to a flexible, deformable organopolysiloxane with viscoelastic properties, notably the consistency of a sponge or a soft sphere. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material resists deformation and has a limited capacity for both extension and contraction. This material is able to return to its original shape after stretching.

[0024] It is more specifically a cross-linked silicone elastomer.

[0025] The elastomer can be chosen from among non-emulsifying or emulsifying elastomers. Preferably, it will be a non-emulsifying elastomer.

[0026] The term "non-emulsifying" defines organopolysiloxane elastomers that do not contain a hydrophilic chain, and in particular do not contain polyoxyalkylene motifs (notably polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene), nor polyglyceryl motifs.

[0027] Thus, organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by: addition reaction crosslinking of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and diorganopolysiloxane having ethylenic unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, particularly in the presence of platinum catalyst; or by condensation reaction crosslinking dehydrogenation between a diorganopolysiloxane with hydroxyl terminations and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon, particularly in the presence of an organotin; or by condensation reaction crosslinking of a diorganopolysiloxane with hydroxyl terminations and a hydrolyzable organopolysiloxane; or by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane particularly in the presence of organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking of organopolysiloxane by high energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays, electron beam.

[0028] Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by addition crosslinking reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B) of diorganopolysiloxane having at least two ethylenic unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, particularly in the presence (C) of platinum catalyst.

[0029] In particular, organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations and methylhydrogenopolysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy terminations, in the presence of platinum catalyst.

[0030] Compound (A) is the basic reagent for the formation of organopolysiloxane elastomer and crosslinking is carried out by the addition reaction of compound (A) with compound (B) in the presence of catalyst (C).

[0031] Compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane having at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to distinct silicon atoms in each molecule.

[0032] Compound (A) may have any molecular structure, including a linear chain structure, a branched chain structure, or a cyclic structure.

[0033] Compound (A) may have a viscosity at 25 °C ranging from 1 to 50,000 centistokes, notably to ensure good miscibility with compound (B). The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound (A) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group.

[0034] Compound (A) can thus be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane-terminated dimethylsiloxane copolymers, and dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane cyclic copolymers.

[0035] Compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two lower alkenyl groups (e.g., C2-C4); the lower alkenyl group may be selected from vinyl, allyl, and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located at any position in the organopolysiloxane molecule but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule. The organopolysiloxane (B) may have a branched-chain, linear-chain, cyclic, or network structure, but the linear-chain structure is preferred. Compound (B) may have a viscosity ranging from liquid to gum-like. Preferably, compound (B) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25 °C.

[0036] Besides the aforementioned alkenyl groups, other organic groups bonded to silicon atoms in compound (B) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group.

[0037] Organopolysiloxanes (B) may be selected from among methylvinylpolysiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanes with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymers with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations, dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane methylvinylsiloxane copolymers with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations, dimethylsiloxanemethylvinylsiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy terminations, dimethylsiloxanemethylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy terminations, methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)polysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations, and copolymers dimethylsiloxane-methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)siloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy endings.

[0038] In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by reacting dimethylpropylisoxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy endings and methylhydrogenopolysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy endings in the presence of a platinum catalyst. According to another variant, compound (B) can be an unsaturated hydrocarbon compound having at least two lower alkenyl groups (e.g., at C2-C4); the lower alkenyl group can be selected from vinyl, allyl, and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups can be located at any position in the molecule but are preferably located at the ends. Hexadiene, and in particular 1,5-hexadiene, is an example.

[0039] Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of compound (B) and the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms per molecule of compound (A) is at least 5.

[0040] It is advantageous that compound (A) be added in such an amount that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in compound (A) and the total amount of all ethylenic unsaturating groups in compound (B) is in the range of 1.5 / 1 to 20 / 1.

[0041] Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction and is, in particular, chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, black platinum, and platinum on a support. Catalyst (C) is preferably added from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, better from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal for every 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (A) and (B).

[0042] As non-emulsifying elastomers, one can for example use those sold under the names DOWSIL Silicone Elastomer Blend such as those carried in a non-volatile oil sold under the name "DOWSIL, 9041" and "DOWSIL, EL-9241 DM" by the Dow Chemical Company, as well as those carried in a volatile oil sold under the name "DOWSIL EL-8040 ID", "DOWSIL EL-9140 DM", "DOWSIL EL-9240 DM", "DOWSIL EL-9048", "DOWSIL 9040", "DOWSIL 9045", "DOWSIL EB-9586", "DOWSIL 9546" by the Dow Chemical Company.

[0043] We can also mention those sold under the names "KSG-15", "KSG-1510", "USG-1G3", "USG-106", "KSG-16", "KSG-1610", "KSG-18A", "KSG-19", "KSG-016F", KSG-41 A", "KSG-42 A", "KSG-43", "KSG-44", "KSG-042Z", "SG-045Z", and "KSG Q48Z" by Shin Etsu. Other non-emulsifying elastomers carried in a non-volatile or low-volatile oil are also sold under the names "Gransil DM-10", "Gransil DMAM", "Gransil DMG-20", "Gransil DMG-6", and "Gransil PM" by Grant Industries; or those carried in a Oil blends sold under the names "Gransil OHS-5", "Gransil PS-5" by Grant Industries; or those carried in a volatile oil sold under the names "GI CD-10", "GI CD-11", "Gransil DMG-", "Gransil DMG-3"."Gransil GCM-5", "Gransil GTS", "Gransil G VL", "Gransil GVL-HV", "Gransil IDS-5", "Gransil MLB", "Gransil PC-12", "Gransil PC-12P", "Gransil RPS", "Gransil RPS-D6", "GI CD-965", "Gransil DM-5", "Gransil DMCM-5", "Gransil DMDM-25", "Gransil DMDM-35", "Gransil DMID", "Gransil DMT3" "Gransil G AM" by the company Grant Industries.

[0044] The content of organopolysiloxane elastomer(s) active material carried in a first oil, for the most concentrated commercial references (high dry matter content) can range from 10% to 30% by weight, in particular from 10% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0045] In a particular embodiment, especially when the composition comprises an organopolysiloxane elastomer carried in an oil and a separate organopolysiloxane elastomer powder, the composition according to the invention comprises organopolysiloxane elastomer(s) carried in a first oil, with a dry matter (active ingredient) content ranging from 0.1% to 10%, in particular from 1% to 8%, preferably from 2% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. "First oil" means the oil in which the organopolysiloxane elastomer is carried. This first oil is selected from non-volatile and volatile oils, preferably non-volatile oils. It will notably be a silicone oil.

[0046] According to the invention, "siliconized oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0047] Examples include non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and polydimethylsiloxanes containing at least one alkyl or alkoxy group, at C2-24, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain. Examples of polydimethylsiloxanes include heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof. Specifically, the first oil is selected from linear polydimethylsiloxanes with a viscosity between 5 cSt and 100 cSt (centistokes), or mixtures thereof.

[0048] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention further comprises an organopolysiloxane elastomer powder, distinct from the organopolysiloxane elastomer described above carried in the first oil. ORGANOPOLYSILOXANE ELASTOMER POWDER COATED OR NOT WITH SILICONE RESIN

[0049] Thus, the composition of the invention further comprises an organopolysiloxane elastomer powder distinct from the organopolysiloxane elastomer described above and carried in the first oil, said organopolysiloxane elastomer powder being coated or uncoated with silicone resin. Advantageously, the composition further comprises at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer powder coated with silicone resin. In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises an organopolysiloxane elastomer powder not coated with silicone resin. As elastomers in powder form, those sold under the names "DC9505" and "DC9506" by Dow Corning and with the INCI name Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer may be used.

[0050] According to another particular and preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises an organopolysiloxane elastomer powder coated with silicone resin, in particular silsesquioxane resin, as described for example in US patent 5,538,793. Such elastomer powders are sold under the names "KSP-100", "KSP-101", "KSP-102", "KSP-103", "KSP-104", "KSP-105" by the company Shin Etsu, and have the INCI name "vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane Crosspolymer".

[0051] Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer powder coated with silicone resin is a compound with the INCI name "vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane Crosspolymer". Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises an organopolysiloxane elastomer powder coated with silicone resin, in particular silsesquioxane resin, in a content ranging from 1% to 20%, in particular from 5% to 15%, preferably from 7% to 11% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition

[0052] In a particular and preferred manner, the composition comprises an organopolysiloxane elastomer carried in a non-volatile oil, combined with at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer powder, advantageously coated with a silicone resin. Thus, in a particular manner, the content of the organopolysiloxane elastomer active ingredient carried in an oil ranges from 0.1% to 10%, in particular from 1% to 8%, preferably from 2% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and the content of the organopolysiloxane elastomer powder ranges from 1% to 20%, in particular from 5% to 15%, preferably from 7% to 11% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. NONPOLAR OIL

[0053] The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one "second oil", distinct from the first oil mentioned above. This second oil is chosen from non-volatile oils or volatile oils, or a mixture thereof, preferably non-volatile oils.

[0054] The second oil according to the invention is a "non-polar oil" otherwise known as a "non-polar oil".

[0055] For the purposes of this invention, "nonpolar oil" means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25 °C, δa, is equal to 0 (J / cm³) 1 / 2. The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the three-dimensional solubility space of HANSEN are described in the article by CM HANSEN: "The three-dimensional solubility parameters" J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).

[0056] Non-polar oil can be a silicone oil or a hydrocarbon oil.

[0057] In particular, it will be a non-polar hydrocarbon oil.

[0058] Nonpolar hydrocarbon oil may be selected from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin such as: paraffin oil or its derivatives, squalane, isoeicosane, naphthalene oil, polybutylenes, hydrogenated polyisobutylenes, decene / butene copolymers, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes, and mixtures thereof.

[0059] Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises at least one non-polar oil selected from polybutylenes, hydrogenated polyisobutylenes, decene / butene copolymers, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes, preferably even more hydrogenated polydecenes.

[0060] The content of nonpolar oil(s) according to the invention will generally range from 15% to 45%, in particular from 20% to 40%, by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0061] The composition of the invention may further include other additional oils selected from hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0062] In a particular manner, the composition also includes at least one polar hydrocarbon oil.

[0063] For the purposes of this invention, "polar oil" means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25 °C, δa, is different from 0 (J / cm 3< ) 1 / 2< .

[0064] In particular, the polar hydrocarbon oil(s) include at least one alcohol function (in which case it is an "alcohol oil") or at least one ester function (in which case it is an "ester oil").

[0065] Among the "oil alcohols," one can cite in particular C10-C26 alcohols, more especially C10-C24, and preferably C12-C22, saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, and more particularly monoalcohols. More specifically, C10-C26 alcohols are fatty monoalcohols, preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms. Examples of fatty alcohols that can be used according to the invention include linear or branched fatty alcohols, of synthetic or natural origin. As specific examples of preferred fatty alcohols, one may mention in particular lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof. According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the fatty alcohol is octyldodecanol.

[0066] Thus, according to a particular method, the composition of the invention will further comprise octyldodecanol.

[0067] According to a particular method, the composition of the invention further comprises a polar oil.

[0068] Among the "ester oils," we can notably mention: fatty acid esters, particularly those with 4 to 22 carbon atoms, synthetic esters such as oils with the formula R1COOR2, where R1 represents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, particularly a branched one, containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R1 + R2 is ≥16, such as isononyl isononanoate, ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl-2-dodecyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, palmitate of 2-ethylhexyl, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate; linear fatty acid esters having a total carbon number from 35 to 70;hydroxylated esters, preferably having a total number of carbons from 35 to 70, such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, isostearyl lactate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, glycerin stearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; esters of aromatic acids and alcohols comprising 4 to 22 atoms; esters of fatty alcohols or C24-C28 branched fatty acids; polyesters resulting from the esterification of at least one triglyceride of hydroxylated carboxylic acid(s) by an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and by an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, possibly unsaturated; and their mixtures.

[0069] A composition according to the invention can thus comprise, in a particular manner, a content of polar oil(s) ranging from 1% to 15%, for example from 2% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0070] The total quantity of oils present in the composition according to the invention is between 40% and 75% by weight, preferably between 50% and 70% relative to the total weight of the composition. POLAR WAX

[0071] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one polar wax.

[0072] For the purposes of this invention, "wax" means a solid compound at 25°C which has a reversible solid / liquid change of state and a melting point above 30°C, preferably above 45°C.

[0073] In particular, polar wax is chosen from the group including beeswax, camauba wax, candelilla wax, cottonseed wax, rice bran wax, sunflower wax, berry wax, Chinese insect wax, montan wax, lanolin and its alcohol, acetylated, esterified, polyethoxylated derivatives, kapok wax, sugar cane wax, hexyl laurate, jojoba wax, shellac wax, polyethoxylated cholesterol ether, synthetic beeswaxes marketed by Koster Keunen under the trade name Kester Wax K82H, or one of their mixtures.

[0074] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises one or more polar wax(s) chosen from the group consisting of candelilla wax, beeswax, camauba wax, rice bran wax, sunflower wax, jojoba wax, and mixtures thereof, preferably candelilla wax.

[0075] According to a preferred mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least, as polar wax, candelilla wax.

[0076] The content of polar wax(s) in the composition of the invention will generally range from 0.5% to 10%, preferably from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0077] The composition may also include a non-polar wax.

[0078] Non-polar wax refers to hydrocarbon wax and / or silicone wax.

[0079] The term "nonpolar hydrocarbon wax" refers to a wax comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms and not containing heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus.

[0080] In particular, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, and mixtures thereof, preferably polyethylene waxes, can be used as non-polar waxes.

[0081] The term "nonpolar silicone wax" refers to a wax containing a silicon heteroatom.

[0082] Examples of silicone nonpolar waxes include C20-24 alkyl dimethicone, marketed by Siltech as Silwax D2024, C24-28 alkyl dimethicone, marketed by Evonik Industries AG as Abil Wax, or one of their mixtures.

[0083] The content of non-polar wax(s) in the composition of the invention may range from 0.5 to 12%, in particular from 2% to 10%, or even from 4% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0084] According to a particular method, the composition of the invention shall comprise, in addition to the polar wax, also a non-polar wax, preferably chosen from polyethylene waxes.

[0085] Thus, according to a particular method, the composition of the invention comprises at least one candelilla wax and one polyethylene wax.

[0086] In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise a total wax content ranging from 5% to 20%, for example from 6% to 15% by weight, preferably from 7% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0087] The total wax content in the composition of the invention is greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS

[0088] The composition of the invention may further include a pasty fat. Pasty fats

[0089] By "pasty fatty compound" or "pasty compound" or "pasty fat body", we mean a non-crystalline fatty compound comprising at a temperature of 25°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

[0090] The paste compound is, for example, chosen from the group consisting of lanolin and its derivatives, polymeric silicone compounds, alkyl (meth)acrylate copolymers preferably having a C8-C30 alkyl group, homo- and copolymer oligomers of vinyl esters having C8-C30 alkyl groups, homo- and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers having C8-C30 alkyl groups, liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C2-C50 diols, ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide copolymers with long-chain C6-C30 alkylene oxides, diglycerol esters, arachidyl propionate, phytosterol esters, and non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a linear diacid or polycarboxylic acid or branched in C4-C50 and a diol or polyol,the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid such as mono-, di- or tri-isostearate of hydrogenated castor oil, a mixture of soy sterols and oxyethylenated (5 OE) oxypropylenated (5 OP) pentaerythritol, fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, shea butter, cocoa butter, mango oil or butter, and mixtures thereof. Charges

[0091] The composition may further include at least one additional filler separate from the silicone elastomer powder.

[0092] For the purposes of this invention, "fillers" means particles of any shape, colorless or white, of mineral or organic, natural or synthetic origin, which are insoluble and dispersed within the composition. These fillers are used, in particular, to modify the rheology or texture of the composition and / or to provide a mattifying effect. The fillers may be mineral or organic and of any shape: platelet, spherical, or oblong.

[0093] The "fillers" are chosen in particular from among silicas, micas, of natural or synthetic origin, kaolin, zinc and titanium oxides; calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydroxycarbonate; zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; powders of synthetic polymers, such as polyethylene, polyesters, polyamides (for example nylon); powders of polyacrylic or polymethacrylic acids; mineral powders such as spherical silica; spherical titanium dioxides; glass and ceramic beads; powders of organic materials of natural origin such as corn, wheat, rice starches, crosslinked or not, and their mixtures.

[0094] Depending on the method used, silica, cellulose powder, or a mixture thereof will be employed.

[0095] A composition according to the invention may comprise a filler content ranging from 0.5% to 10%, for example from 1% to 8% by weight, preferably from 2% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Coloring agents

[0096] A composition conforming to this shall advantageously include, for making up the lips, at least one "coloring material" which may be chosen from water-soluble or non-water-soluble, fat-soluble or non-water-soluble, organic or inorganic coloring materials, optical effect materials, and mixtures thereof.

[0097] The term "coloring material" in the context of the present invention means a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when formulated in sufficient quantity in a suitable cosmetic medium.

[0098] In a particular manner, the colouring material(s) are chosen in particular from mineral and / or organic pigments, composite pigments (based on mineral and / or organic materials), dyes, mother-of-pearl or pearlescent pigments, and their mixtures.

[0099] By 'colorants' we mean colorants traditionally used in the cosmetic field, distinct from food colorings used in food products.

[0100] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least one coloring material selected from mineral and / or organic pigments, composite pigments (based on mineral and / or organic materials), mother-of-pearl or pearlescent pigments, and mixtures thereof. Mineral and organic pigments

[0101] The term "pigments" refers to white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting deposit. Examples include mineral pigments, organic pigments, and composite pigments (i.e., pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials).

[0102] Examples of "mineral pigments" include titanium dioxide; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides; and manganese violet.

[0103] Among the "organic pigments", we can cite, for example, the pigments D & C red no. 19; D & C red no. 9; D & C Red no. 22; D & C Red no. 21; D & C Red no. 28; D & C Yellow no. 6; D & C orange no. 4; D & C orange no. 5; D & C Red no. 27; D & C red no. 13; D & C Red no. 7; D & C Red no. 6; D & C Yellow no. 5; D & C Red no. 36;; D & C Red no. 33; D & C orange no. 10; D & C yellow no. 6; ; D & C Red no. 30; D & C red no. 3; D & C Blue 1; carbon black and carmine-based lakes. Dyes

[0104] Among the "colorants," we can mention Yellow 5, Yellow 6, Blue 1, Green 5, Green 3, Green 6, Orange 4, Red 4, Red 21, Red 22, Red 27, Red 28, Red 33, Red 40, and cochineal carmine (CI 15850, CI 75470). Fat-soluble colorants include, for example, Sudan Red, D&C Red 17, D&C Green 6, beta-carotene, Sudan Brown, D&C Yellow 11, D&C Violet 2, D&C Orange 5, quinoline yellow, and annatto.

[0105] In particular, the total content of colouring materials in the composition may range from 1% to 15% by weight, in particular from 2% to 10% by weight, preferably even from 3% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. GALENIQUE

[0106] The composition of the invention is a composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular a composition for the makeup and / or care of the lips.

[0107] The composition of the invention is generally a solid composition, as defined above.

[0108] Examples of lip makeup compositions include lip balm, lip liner, and lip balm.

[0109] Depending on a particular and preferred method, it will be a solid composition of lip makeup, especially a stick or lipstick. COSMETIC PROCESS

[0110] The invention also relates to a cosmetic method for lip care and / or makeup, comprising the application of a composition according to the invention.

[0111] The composition applied to the lips is preferably a solid lip makeup composition, in particular a stick or lipstick.

[0112] The process according to the invention is in particular a lip makeup process, intended to deposit on said lips a comfortable, matte and non-drying film on the lips, with good color retention.

[0113] The invention will be illustrated by the following non-limiting examples. Percentages are expressed as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition unless otherwise indicated. EXAMPLES Example 1: Effect of the presence of a polar wax in the composition of the invention

[0114] Two comparative formulas were tested, one with the presence of a polar wax (invention) and the other without (comparative). The polar wax used was candelilla wax.

[0115] We evaluated the implementation of said compositions, as well as the stability properties of the composition and sensory qualities.

[0116] The results are presented in the following table: [Table 1] Ingredients Composition not included in the invention (without polar wax) Composition according to the invention (with polar wax) Silicone elastomer carried in an oil (DOWSIL EL 9241 DM) 25 25 Silicone oil (DIMETHICONE 100 CS) 7,8 7,8 EMULMETIK 300 IP Lecithin 0,5 0,5 UNIPURE RED LC 0,9875 0,9875 C 339001 SUN PURO 2,48 2,48 UNIPURE RED LC 0,77 0,77 SUNCROMA FDC YELLOW 6 AL LAKE 4,8 4,8 SUNCROMA FDC YELLOW 5 AL LAKE 2,6 2,6 UNIPURE RED LC 5,55 5,55 DEKANEX 2006 FG hydrogenated polydecene (non-polar oil) 28,0325 28,0325 PERFORMALENE 500 polyethylene wax (non-polar wax) 7,45 5,2 Candelilla wax CANDELILLA WAX SR 3 (polar wax) - 2,5 SUNSPHERE H33 Silica 3 3 Silica (SILICA SHELLS) 2 2 Silicone elastomer powder coated with silicone resin (KSP-100) 3 3 Calcium carbonate 0,05 0,05 Shea butter 1,5 1,5 Stability There are holes in the sticks; it's impossible to have a complete stick. OK Sensory It's difficult to pour a decent stick OK

[0117] The compositions are prepared according to the following protocol: Silicone elastomer carried in oil (Dowsil 9241 EL) and Dimethicone 100cs are mixed under stirring at 95°C; when the mixture is homogeneous, polyethylene and candelilla waxes are incorporated; the pigment paste comprising the pigments, hydrogenated polydecene and lecithin is added to the mixture prepared above when the waxes are melted, then the powders (fillers: silica shells, sunsphere H33 and KSP 100) are sprinkled under stirring; the mixture at a temperature above 95°C is poured into a mold.

[0118] Lipsticks are evaluated based on several criteria: Organoleptic characteristics: sensory appeal, color: the compositions are sensorially tested for their comfort, matte finish, and coverage properties. Physicochemical characteristics: hardness, breakage test: physicochemical measurements ensure the moldability of the invention's composition, the stick's adherence during application, and its breakability. In practice, the sticks are placed at 20°C for 24 hours. They are then cut 1 cm from the cup using a wire to measure the stick's hardness. This operation is performed three times to calculate an average. Hardness allows us to predict the stick's behavior during demolding, breakage, and application. A texture analyzer, the TAXT Plus, and the Exponent software are used to measure hardness. The value obtained, expressed in Gram-force (Gf), must be between 140 and 190.Stability: The formulas are monitored in various ovens, as detailed below, to replicate the product's lifespan. These accelerated aging tests allow us to ensure the product's long-term stability. We can thus confirm the product's durability under normal conditions of use and storage. In practice, the stability of the sticks is observed after being placed in different ovens: humidity, alternating temperatures, 4°C, and 45°C. The pieces are placed in stability tests 24 hours after their manufacture. The samples are observed after a defined period in each oven: 24 hours, 2 weeks, 1 month, and 3 months. The absence of color shift, dripping, exudation, and changes in the appearance of the grape (shine, matte finish) is observed.

[0119] The results show that the presence of polar wax in the composition of the invention makes it possible to obtain a stable composition which has the organoleptic and physico-chemical characteristics sought, compared to the same composition without polar wax.

[0120] This formula results in a matte stick with high coverage and a structure rigid enough for a comfortable, unguided application (no pulling or tugging over time). By 'unguided' structure, we mean a formulation designed for application with the lipstick bullet (tube) positioned outside the mechanism.

[0121] Example 2: Effect of the presence of a polar wax in a composition of the invention. Two formulas are compared, one with the presence of a polar wax (invention) and the other without the presence of a polar wax (comparative). The polar wax used is candelilla wax. [Table 2] Ingredients Composition not included in the invention (without polar wax) Composition according to the invention (with polar wax) Silicone elastomer carried in an oil (DOWSIL EL 9241 DM) 25 25 Silicone oil (DIMETHICONE 100 CS) 7,8 7,8 EMULMETIK 300 IP Lecithin 0,5 0,5 UNIPURE RED LC 0,9875 0,9875 C 339001 SUN PURO 2,48 2,48 UNIPURE RED LC 0,77 0,77 SUNCROMA FDC YELLOW 6 AL LAKE 4,8 4,8 SUNCROMA FDC YELLOW 5 AL LAKE 2,6 2,6 UNIPURE RED LC 5,55 5,55 DEKANEX 2006 FG hydrogenated polydecene (non-polar oil) qsp 100 qsp 100 PERFORMALENE 500 polyethylene wax (non-polar wax) 7,45 5,2 Candelilla wax CANDELILLA WAX SR 3 (polar wax) - 2,5 SUNSPHERE H33 Silica 3 3 Silica (SILICA SHELLS) 2 2 Cross-linked silicone elastomer powder (DIMETHICONE / VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER - DOW CORNING 9506 POWDER) 6,5 6,5 Silicone elastomer powder coated with silicone resin (KSP-100) 3 3 Calcium carbonate 0,05 0,05 Shea butter 1,5 1,5

[0122] The compositions are prepared according to the following protocol: The silicone elastomer carried in an oil (Dowsil 9241 EL) and Dimethicone 100cs are mixed under stirring at 95°C; when the mixture is homogeneous, the polyethylene and candelilla waxes are incorporated; the pigment paste comprising the pigments, hydrogenated polydecene and lecithin is added to the mixture prepared above when the waxes are melted, then the powders (fillers: silica shells, sunsphere H33, Dow Corning 9506 Powder and KSP 100) are sprinkled under stirring; the mixture at a temperature above 95°C is poured into a mold.

[0123] Lipsticks are evaluated based on several criteria: Organoleptic characteristics: sensory appeal, color: the compositions are tested sensorially for their comfort, matte finish, and coverage properties. Physicochemical characteristics: hardness, breakage test: physicochemical measurements ensure the moldability of the invention's composition, the stick's durability during application, and its resistance to breakage. In practice, the lipsticks are placed at 20°C for 24 hours. They are then cut 1 cm from the cup using a wire to measure the stick's hardness. This operation is performed three times to calculate an average. Hardness allows us to predict the stick's behavior during demolding, breakage, and application. A texture analyzer, the TAXT Plus, and the Exponent software are used to measure hardness. The value obtained, expressed in Gram-force (Gf), must be between 140 and 190.Stability: We monitor the formulas in different ovens, as detailed below, to replicate a product's lifespan. These accelerated aging tests allow us to ensure the product's long-term stability. This enables us to confirm the product's durability under normal conditions of use and storage. In practice, we observe the stability of the sticks after they have been placed in different ovens: humidity, alternating temperatures, 4°C, and 45°C. The sticks are placed in stability tests 24 hours after manufacture. We observe the samples after a defined time in each oven: 24 hours, 2 weeks, 1 month, and 3 months. We observe the absence of color shift, dripping, exudation, and changes in the appearance of the stick: shine, matte finish.

[0124] The composition of the invention makes it possible to obtain a matte stick with strong coverage, having a structure that is "rigid" enough to have an unguided and comfortable structure (no pulling over time). Example 3: Composition for lips with a velvety matte effect

[0125] [Table 3] Ingredients % Hydrogenated polydecene Qsp100 Cross-linked silicone elastomer carried in an oil (DIMETHICONE / DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER - DOWSIL EL 9241 DM) 25.0 Dimethicone 100cs 8.0 Polyethylene wax 5.5 Cross-linked silicone elastomer powder (DIMETHICONE / VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER - DOW CORNING 9506 POWDER) 3.0 Octyldodecanol 5.2 Candelilla wax 3.25 Silicone resin-coated cross-linked silicone elastomer powder (vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, KSP-100) 3.0 Pigments 3.0 Silica 5.0 Conservatives qs

[0126] The composition is stable. After application to the lips, a comfortable, matte and non-drying finish is obtained, with a velvety appearance. Example 4: Composition for lips with a velvety matte effect

[0127] [Table 4] Ingredients % Hydrogenated polydecene Qsp100 Cross-linked silicone elastomer carried in an oil (DIMETHICONE / DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER - DOWSIL EL 9241 DM) 25.0 Dimethicone 100cs 8.0 Polyethylene wax 5.5 Cross-linked silicone elastomer powder (DIMETHICONE / VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER - DOW CORNING 9506 POWDER) 3.0 Octyldodecanol 5.2 Candelilla wax 3.25 Silicone resin-coated cross-linked silicone elastomer powder (vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, KSP-100) 6,5 Pigments 3.0 Silica 5.0 Conservatives qs

[0128] The composition is stable. After application to the lips, a comfortable, matte and non-drying finish is obtained, with a velvety appearance.

Claims

1. Solid, preferably anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium at least: an organopolysiloxane elastomer conveyed in a first oil and an organopolysiloxane elastomer powder distinct from the organopolysiloxane elastomer conveyed in a first oil, a nonpolar oil distinct from the first oil, a polar wax, the total active content of organopolysiloxane elastomer(s) being greater than or equal to 7%, preferably greater than or equal to 10% by weight of the total weight of said composition, and the total wax content being greater than or equal to 5% by weight of the total weight of said composition.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that said organopolysiloxane elastomer powder is coated with silicone resin.

3. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the active ingredient content of organopolysiloxane elastomer conveyed in an oil ranges from 0.1% to 10%, in particular 1% to 8%, preferably 2% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and the organopolysiloxane elastomer powder content ranges from 1% to 20%, in particular 5% to 15%, preferably 7% to 11% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Cosmetic composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polar wax is selected from the group consisting of candelilla wax, beeswax, carnauba wax, rice bran wax, sunflower wax, jojoba wax and mixtures thereof, preferably candelilla wax.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one nonpolar wax.

6. Cosmetic composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises a polar oil.

7. Cosmetic composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises coloring materials, preferably pigments.

8. Cosmetic composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is a lip care and / or makeup product, in particular a lipstick, a lip liner, or a lip balm.

9. Cosmetic method for lip care and / or makeup comprising applying to the lips at least one composition as defined in any of the preceding claims.