Device for assembling a precious or semi-precious stone on a support

Abstract

The invention relates to an assembly device (1) for mounting a precious or semi-precious stone (8) on a support (4) comprising: - a base (2) intended to be made solid to the support (4), and - at least two prongs (10) each of which is intended to be solid to the base (2) and to cooperate with the stone to contribute to its assembly to the support (4), in which each of the prongs (10) is made of synthetic or natural diamond.

Description

Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to an assembly device for mounting a precious or semi-precious stone on a support comprising: a base intended to be made integral with the support, at least two claws, each of which is intended to be integral with the base and to cooperate with the stone to contribute to its assembly to the support.

[0002] The present invention also relates to a piece of jewelry comprising a support carrying such an assembly device, preferably a solitaire type ring. State of the art

[0003] Many setting techniques are known for mounting stones, particularly precious or semi-precious stones, on a suitable support, for example the ring or body of a ring.

[0004] Thus, it is already known to use a bezel, or more generally, an assembly device meeting the above characteristics to mount a stone on a support, for example to make a solitaire ring. In this type of ring, a single stone is mounted on the body of the ring and is particularly highlighted there most of the time. The use of a bezel according to the above characteristics makes it possible to offer a relatively airy mounting of the stone, since part of its periphery remains free and visible.

[0005] However, this airy appearance can quickly be compromised, depending on the number of prongs used, which is why other setting techniques have been devised to improve the visibility of the stones as well as their brightness, which can also be impacted by the mounting methods used.

[0006] An example of a mounting for improving the appearance of a set stone is presented in application WO 2016 / 086323 A1. This document provides for arranging a localized connecting zone in a specific region of the pavilion of a suitably cut precious stone, in such a way that any light ray entering the stone through its crown and reflecting on the connecting zone exits the stone from the back, at the pavilion. Thus, the connecting zone is not visible to an observer looking at the visible part of the set stone, i.e. its crown.

[0007] An alternative setting approach is presented in application EP3181005 A1, with a slightly different intended purpose than the above document. The concept that led to the filing of this European application was to allow the setting of several stones of reduced dimensions, one next to the other on a piece of jewelry, in a way that gives the impression that this piece of jewelry would only contain a single large stone. The teaching of this document is a little confusing but it is understood that if the setting of certain stones, the smallest and those of medium dimensions, is carried out in a conventional manner by means of metal prongs positioned rather in the peripheral regions of the setting zone, the stones of larger dimensions seem to be held in place by the smaller ones.Indeed, it appears that the larger stones are engaged in suitable holes in the mounting bracket before smaller stones are pressed into place by applying pressure to the larger stones in peripheral regions.

[0008] However, such an approach seems somewhat random in its result and probably not very reproducible, and the pressure applied by some stones on other stones risks causing damage to all of them. In addition, the reliability of the setting thus achieved seems limited, and therefore not recommended for setting precious stones from a certain size / value in view of the risk of loss incurred. Finally, besides the question of the risk of loss of stones, this approach is not suitable for making certain types of jewelry, for example a solitaire.

[0009] Therefore, it remains interesting to be able to develop a method of setting precious or semi-precious stones, which would allow such stones to be set reliably while showing them off correctly. Disclosure of the invention

[0010] A main aim of the present invention is to propose a device for assembling or setting a precious or semi-precious stone, which allows the implementation of a setting method alternative to the known approaches for setting this stone on a support, in particular for manufacturing a piece of jewelry, and which is at the same time simple, robust and reliable, while preserving a good level of visibility of the stone when it is mounted on its support, in particular by the implementation of setting means which are relatively discreet.

[0011] To this end, the present invention relates more particularly to a device for assembling a precious or semi-precious stone, of the type indicated above, characterized by the fact that each of its claws is made of diamond, synthetic or natural.

[0012] Thanks to these characteristics, a device for assembling or setting a stone is obtained that is both attractive and discreet. Indeed, a conventional setting essentially has a technical function, aimed at making a stone integral with a support, and the jeweler generally seeks to make it discreet, to integrate it perfectly into the overall aesthetics of the corresponding jewel, taking into account the shape and material of the support. In a very different way, the present invention makes it possible to increase the contribution of the assembly device to the overall value of the jewel, not only because of the intrinsic value of the diamond used for its creation, but also by the added value resulting from the work necessary to manufacture the various components. In addition, the transparency of the diamond makes it possible to optimize the enhancement of the set stone thanks to the assembly device according to the present invention.

[0013] According to a preferred embodiment, it can be provided that the base is also made of synthetic or natural diamond.

[0014] Generally speaking, it can be provided that the attachment device also includes a belt intended to support the stone and to be secured to the claws.

[0015] In this case, it is advantageous to plan for the belt to also be made of synthetic or natural diamond.

[0016] According to a preferred embodiment, it can be provided that the base, the belt and the claws are all made of synthetic diamond.

[0017] Preferably, it can be provided that the base and the belt each have a general shape extending in a mean plane and having a mean central axis, perpendicular to the corresponding mean plane, and that the base and the belt are intended to be arranged by being superimposed in such a way that their central axes are substantially coaxial.

[0018] More specifically, it is advantageous to provide that the general shape of the base has a symmetry of revolution along its average central axis.

[0019] Similarly, it can also be predicted that the general shape of the belt has a symmetry of revolution along its central mean axis.

[0020] According to a preferred embodiment, it can be provided that the respective general shapes of the base and the belt are substantially homothetic, preferably annular, not only for aesthetic considerations but also to optimize the robustness of the final assembly of the kitten.

[0021] Generally speaking, it can also be provided that the belt has a generally annular shape, with a substantially circular central opening and whose periphery located on the side intended to cooperate with the stone is substantially conical. Such a characteristic makes it possible to guarantee good mechanical hold of the stone on the belt.

[0022] Furthermore, it is also possible to provide, in general, that each of the claws comprises a cutout defining a support intended to be positioned against the base and / or that each of the claws comprises a groove defining at least one support surface for the belt and / or that each of the claws comprises a latching zone intended to cooperate with the stone during its assembly.

[0023] The present invention also relates to a piece of jewelry comprising a support carrying an assembly device according to the preceding characteristics.

[0024] Advantageously, it can be provided that each of the claws is made integral with the base and / or the belt, when there is one, by brazing.

[0025] Furthermore, it is also possible to provide for the support to be metallic and, possibly in this case, for the base to be made integral by brazing.

[0026] Generally speaking, when a precious or semi-precious stone is housed in the assembly device, it is preferable to provide for an adhesive and / or shock-absorbing material to be interposed between each of the claws and the stone.

[0027] The present invention also relates to an article of jewelry or jewel according to all or part of the preceding characteristics and taking the form of a ring, preferably of the solitaire type.

[0028] In this case, it is advantageous to provide that the ring includes palmettes connecting the support to the belt, these being preferably brazed onto the belt to improve the robustness of the assembly.

[0029] The jewelry item may include several set stones, each of which is assembled to a corresponding support by means of an assembly device as described above. The jewelry item may be a ring, a bracelet, a necklace, earrings, a brooch, a crown, without this list being exhaustive. Brief description of the drawings

[0030] Other characteristics and advantages of the present invention will appear more clearly on reading the detailed description of a preferred embodiment which follows, made with reference to the appended drawings given by way of non-limiting example and in which: there figure 1 represents a simplified perspective view of a setting housing a stone, according to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the figure 2 represents a simplified perspective view of a solitaire including the bezel of the figure 1with the stone, this one being represented in exploded form, and the figure 3 represents a simplified, exploded and enlarged perspective view of the kitten as shown in the figure 2 , with the stone. Method(s) of carrying out the invention

[0031] There figure 1 represents an overall view, in simplified perspective, of an assembly device 1 or bezel, assembled, housing a precious or semi-precious stone, according to a preferred embodiment of the present invention.

[0032] The kitten 1 here has a base 2, intended to be made integral with a support 4 (illustrated only on the figure 2 , in the form of a ring body), a belt 6 arranged to define a seat for a stone 8, and claws 10, arranged to achieve not only the assembly of the entire setting 1, being integral with both the base 2 and the belt 6, but also the retention of the stone 8.

[0033] The stone 8 may be of any type, preferably precious or semi-precious, for example a diamond, otherwise the costs relating to the manufacture of the setting 1 according to the present invention would be disproportionate to the value of the stone which it can be set.

[0034] According to the present invention, at least the belt 6 and the claws 10 are made of diamond, synthetic or natural. Preferably but optionally, the base 2 can also be made of diamond, synthetic or natural. Alternatively, it is also possible to provide for the base 2 to be metallic, preferably of the same metal as the support 4 when the latter is metallic.

[0035] Any known suitable method may be used to manufacture synthetic diamonds intended to enable the manufacture of the various components of the setting 1 according to the invention. However, it seems simpler for the jeweler wishing to use such a setting, according to the invention, to obtain commercially available diamonds, which he will cut or have cut according to his own needs. More and more laboratories offer synthetic diamonds, some of which have a higher purity than natural diamonds. Here is a link to the website of a Swiss supplier of industrial diamonds, given as a non-limiting example: https: / / www.swissdiamondlab.ch / This supplier also offers to cut its synthetic diamonds to measure, by laser machining on a 5-axis machine.

[0036] There figure 2 represents a simplified perspective view of a solitaire comprising bezel 1 of the figure 1with stone 8 in place, setting 1 being shown exploded this time to make certain construction details more visible.

[0037] As already mentioned previously, the support 4 here has the shape of a ring body or ring on which a stone 8 is intended to be mounted by means of the setting 1 to create a solitaire. The support 4 is preferably metallic, advantageously made of precious metal such as silver, gold, platinum, palladium, rhodium, titanium or tungsten or one of their alloys. For example, in the case of gold, a gold alloy may be used which will preferably be at least 14 carats, more preferably at least 18 carats. Alternatively, it may also be provided that the support 4 is made of diamond, synthetic or natural, in a single piece or made up of an assembly of several parts.

[0038] The support 4 is prepared to receive the setting 1 and allow its integration in a suitable manner both aesthetically and mechanically, to ensure its good hold. In particular, the support 4 is here provided with palmettes 12 arranged on either side of the setting 1, being shaped and sized so as to bear against the belt 6 in the middle plane of the support 4. Typically, the palmettes 12 can be made of the same metal as the support and can be made integral with the latter by brazing or welding.

[0039] It emerges from the figure 2 that the kitten 1 according to the present preferred embodiment of the invention, illustrated without limitation, is made integral with the support 4 by means of three contact regions, at the level of which brazing is preferably carried out, namely between the base 2 and the support 4, and between each palmette 12 and its contact region with the belt 6.

[0040] There figure 3 represents an enlargement of kitten 1 as illustrated in the figure 2 , exploded view, to make certain construction details more visible.

[0041] It can be seen that all the components of the setting 1 are represented here with faceting, essentially for aesthetic considerations, even if certain machining and angles also fall under mechanical considerations. In particular, it can be seen that different surfaces of different components intended to be brought into contact with each other have identical or complementary orientations, in order to optimize the mechanical strength of the mechanical connections concerned and therefore of the setting 1 as a whole (and therefore of the setting of the stone 8 in the setting 1, of course).

[0042] More specifically, the base 2 has a conical upper surface, preferably by way of non-limiting illustration, each of the claws 10 having a cutout 14 of substantially complementary shape to define a stable connection between the base 2 and the claws 10.

[0043] The belt 6 has an external envelope having a first portion 16 substantially horizontal relative to the orientation illustrated in the figure 3 , defining a substantially flat bottom, followed by a second portion 18 slightly inclined relative to the vertical on the view of the figure 3 , then a third portion 20 inclined at approximately 40 to 60 degrees relative to the second portion 18.

[0044] We see on the figure 3 that each of the claws 10 comprises a groove 22 whose profile is complementary to that of the external envelope of the belt 6.

[0045] Advantageously, provision is made for the production of a connection by brazing the claws 10 with the base 2 and with the belt 6, the brazing therefore being carried out at the level of the cutouts 14 and the grooves 22.

[0046] Finally, each of the claws 10 also includes a latching zone 24 (i.e. a machining defining a groove) in its upper part intended to cooperate with the stone 8. This latching zone 24 has a general V-shaped profile intended to cooperate both with the pavilion of the stone 8 and with its crown to ensure perfect mechanical holding in the setting 1. Alternatively, it could be provided that each of the claws 10 only includes a simple portion covering the crown of the stone 8, a counter-support ensuring the holding of the stone 8 already being provided at the level of the belt 6.

[0047] It is understood that good holding of the stone 8 can be ensured from the implementation of two claws with some precautions, failing which a displacement of the stone could remain possible. Thus, it would be appropriate to provide, in the case of two claws, that at least one of them has a contact surface with the stone which at least partially matches the shape of the stone in the region concerned, in order to ensure transverse retention of the stone. In general, it may be possible to consider implementing at least two or three and up to eight claws by reducing their width to avoid completely enclosing the stone 8.

[0048] It is also noted that the belt 6 here has a generally annular shape with a substantially circular central opening adapted to the shape of the stone 8 illustrated by way of non-limiting example. The upper periphery (in the view of the figure 3) of the central opening intended to cooperate with the stone 8 advantageously has a substantially conical shape whose cone angle corresponds to that of the culet of the stone 8, in order to once again optimize the quality of the contact between the stone 8 and the setting 1.

[0049] It is of course understood that the different components of the setting 1 may have different shapes from those illustrated, in particular to take into account a different shape that the stone to be set would have.

[0050] Generally, it is advantageous to provide that the base 2 and the belt 6 each have a general shape extending in a mean plane and having a mean central axis, perpendicular to the corresponding mean plane, and that the base 2 and the belt 6 are intended to be arranged by being superimposed in such a way that their central axes are substantially coaxial.

[0051] More specifically, it can advantageously be provided that the general shape of the base 2 has a symmetry of revolution along its average central axis.

[0052] Similarly, it can also be expected that the general shape of the belt 6 has a symmetry of revolution along its average central axis.

[0053] According to a preferred general embodiment variant, it can be provided that the respective general shapes of the base 2 and the belt 6 are substantially homothetic, preferably annular as is the case on the figures 1 to 3 , not only for aesthetic considerations but also to optimize the robustness of the final assembly of the kitten 1.

[0054] Of course, those skilled in the art will be able to implement any other general shape adapted to their own needs, in particular to the shape of a specific stone to be set, such as for example a general square, rectangular, oval, or even pear or drop shape, without departing from the scope of the present invention as defined by the attached set of claims.

[0055] It is also possible to provide that one or other component of the kitten 1 is made in several separate parts made integral with each other by brazing or gluing. Thus, for example, a production of the belt 6 in two halves has been illustrated on the figures 2 And 3 , for non-limiting illustration purposes. Such an approach may be considered to simplify assembly, for example, or to reduce the manufacturing cost of certain components which would have significant dimensions, depending on the dimensions of the stone to be set.

[0056] More specifically in the case of the embodiment specifically illustrated on the figures 2 And 3 , we see that the placement of the stone 8 in the setting 1 is simplified when the belt 6 is made in two parts. We can for example provide that the two claws 10 located to the left and right of the figure 3 are already brazed to the belt 6 before forming the belt 6 by joining its two halves. The other two claws 10 can then be brazed to the belt 6, finishing enclosing the stone 8 and masking the junctions of the two parts of the belt 6 if necessary. The four claws 10 can finally be made integral with the base 2 by brazing.

[0057] Of course, this example of a mounting method is illustrative and not limiting. A person skilled in the art will not encounter any particular difficulty in carrying out a mounting adapted to his own constraints, in particular depending on the shape of the setting which will be essentially dictated by the shape of the stone to be set, without however departing from the scope of the invention as defined by the attached set of claims.

[0058] Generally speaking, it may be advantageous to provide for an adhesive material to be interposed between each of the claws 10 and the stone 8, in order to cushion the corresponding assembly and avoid stress concentrations or play between the claws 10 and the stone 8. For example, it may be possible to use a UV acrylic glue with a high level of transparency, such as Loctite AA 3494 (registered trademark, available here: https: / / www.henkel-adhesives.com / ch / fr / produit / uv-curing-adhesives / loctite_aa _ 34940.html). In order to further improve the resistance of the connection between each of the claws 10 and the stone 8 to shocks, it would be possible to consider using a flexible material instead of glue, for example silicone or 24-carat gold.

[0059] Thanks to the characteristics which have just been presented, a device is obtained for mounting a precious or semi-precious stone on a support, in particular for making a piece of jewelry, which makes it possible to guarantee excellent holding of the set stone, while preserving its visibility for an observer. Better still, the setting according to the present invention enhances the perceived quality of the corresponding piece of jewelry thanks to the originality of its design and its high level of technicality.

[0060] The implementation of the present invention is not limited to certain particular characteristics as they have been illustrated and described. Indeed, a person skilled in the art will not encounter any particular difficulty in adapting the present teaching to his own needs and implementing an assembly device incorporating only part of these characteristics without departing from the scope of the present invention as defined by the claims. Thus, in particular, as already indicated, the general shapes of the different components of the assembly device according to the invention as they have been illustrated are not limiting, and a person skilled in the art will be able to modify them to adapt them to his own needs and constraints while remaining within the scope of the invention as defined by the claims.

Claims

1. Device (1) for assembling a precious or semi-precious stone (8) on a support (4) comprising: - a base (2) intended to be made integral with the support (4), and - at least two claws (10) each of which is intended to be integral with said base (2) and to cooperate with the stone (8) to contribute to its assembly to the support (4), characterized in that each of said claws (10) is made of synthetic or natural diamond.

2. Device (1) according to claim 1, characterized in that said base (2) is also made of synthetic or natural diamond.

3. Device (1) according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it also includes a belt (6) intended to support the stone (8) and to be secured to said claws (10).

4. Device (1) according to claim 3, characterized in that said belt (6) is also made of synthetic or natural diamond.

5. Device (1) according to claim 4, characterized in thatsaid base (2), said belt (6) and said claws (10) are made of synthetic diamond.

6. Device (1) according to one of claims 3 to 5, characterized in that said base (2) and said belt (6) each have a general shape extending in a mean plane and having a mean central axis, perpendicular to said corresponding mean plane, and in that said base (2) and said belt (6) are intended to be arranged by being superimposed in such a way that their central axes are substantially coaxial.

7. Device (1) according to claim 6, characterized in that the general shape of said base (2) has a symmetry of revolution along its average central axis.

8. Device (1) according to claim 6 or 7, characterized in that the general shape of said belt (6) has a symmetry of revolution along its average central axis.

9. Device (1) according to one of claims 6 to 8, characterized in thatthe respective general shapes of said base (2) and said belt (6) are substantially homothetic, preferably annular.

10. Device (1) according to one of claims 3 to 9, characterized in that said belt (6) has a generally annular shape, with a substantially circular central opening and the periphery of which located on the side intended to cooperate with the stone (8) is substantially conical.

11. Device (1) according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that each of said claws (10) comprises a cutout (14) defining a support intended to be positioned against said base (2).

12. Device (1) according to one of claims 3 to 10 or according to claims 3 and 11, characterized in that each of said claws (10) comprises a groove (22) defining at least one bearing surface for said belt (6).

13. Device (1) according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in thateach of said claws (10) comprises a latching zone (24) intended to cooperate with the stone (8) during its assembly.

14. Jewel comprising a support (4) carrying an assembly device (1) according to one of claims 1 to 13.

15. Jewel according to claim 14, characterized in that each of said claws (10) is made integral with said base (2) by brazing.

16. Jewel according to claim 14 or 15, comprising an assembly device (1) comprising a belt (6) according to claim 3, characterized in that each of said claws (10) is made integral with said belt (6) by brazing.

17. Jewel according to one of claims 14 to 16, characterized in that said support (4) is metallic.

18. Jewel according to claim 17, characterized in that said base (2) is made integral with said support (4) by brazing.

19. Jewel according to one of claims 14 to 18, comprising a stone (8), precious or semi-precious, housed in said assembly device (1), characterized in that an adhesive and / or shock-absorbing material is interposed between each of said claws (10) and said stone (8).

20. Jewel according to one of claims 14 to 19, comprising a stone (8), precious or semi-precious, housed in said assembly device (1), characterized in that It is a solitaire type ring.

21. Jewel according to claim 20, comprising an assembly device (1) comprising a belt (6) according to claim 3, characterized in that it comprises palmettes (12) connecting said support (4) to said belt (6), said palmettes (12) preferably being brazed onto said belt (6).

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